Cotton Manufacturing

INDEX.

• A
• PAGE
• Accrington trade, 12
• Adhesive substances, 34, 37
• American cotton, 16
• American trade terms, 165
• Analysis of patterns, 90
• Antiseptics, 34, 36
• Area (circular), 159
• Arrangement of looms, 71
• Arrangement of shed, 19
• B
• Back beams, 40
• Ball sizing, 48
• Ball warping, 30
• Ball warps, 29
• Bare cloth, 81
• Beaming or beam warping, 25
• Beating up, 55, 61
• Becks, 37
• Blackburn dobby, 108
• Blackburn pick, 59
• Blackburn standard list, 154
• Blackburn trade, 11
• Black oil, 82
• Bleaching, 83
• Bobbin warpers, 22
• Bolton quilts, 131
• Bolton reed counts, 147
• Bolton trade, 12
• Bottoming, 73, 81
• Bradford loom, 58
• Brake, 69
• Brocade, 130
• Bullhide, 102
• Burnley trade, 12
• Bury trade, 13
• C
• Calculations for—
• Cloth, 149
• Counts, 143
• Engines, 158
• Healds, 148
• Jacquards, 129
• Reeds, 146
• Sizing, 149, 152
• Speeds, 76, 156
• Capital invested, 9
• Card cutting, 127
• Carding, 17
• Cards for drop-box, 140
• Cartwright’s loom, 4
• Casting out, 129
• Centre tie, 126
• Checks, 133
• Checked shirtings, 134
• China clay, 36
• Chloride of magnesium, 36
• Chloride of zinc, 36
• Circle swivels, 141
• Circular boxes, 140
• Circumference, to find, 158
• Classification of fancy cloths, 89
• Cloth, cotton, 80
• Cloth, cover of, 81
• Cloth, faults in, 81
• Cloth looking, 80
• Cloth, uneven, 81
• Coal, 158
• Cockly cloth, 81
• Coloured spots, 141
• Coloured warping, 28
• Coloured winding, 24
• Combing, 17
• Common dobby, 108
• Contraction, 149
• Cop, 21
• Cop bottoms, 21
• Cop nose, 21
• Cords, 87, 102
• Cotton, 14
• Cotton cloth, 80
• Cotton cultivation, 14
• Cotton districts, 16
• Cotton fibre, 14
• Cotton lands, 14
• Cotton manufacture—syllabus, 161
• Cotton plant, 14
• Cotton, selection of, 16
• Counterpanes, 131
• Counts on beam, 153
• Counts, reed, 146
• Counts, single yarn, 143
• Counts, two and three-fold, 145
• Cracks, 81
• Creel, 25
• Cretonnes, 87
• Cross borders, 82
• Crossing thread, 111
• D
• Damask, 130
• Darwen trade, 12
• Designing, 93
• Designs, 92
• Dhootie marker, 48
• Dhooties, 84
• Dhooties, figured, 110
• Diameter threads, 146
• Diggle’s chain, 135
• Dimity, 130
• Dividend of loom, 66
• Divisions of the industry, 1
• Dobbies, 100, 103
• Dobby sides, 110
• Domestics, 85
• Double cloth, 109
• Double lift, 104
• Double yarn, 145
• Doup, 77
• Doup healds, 112
• Draft for plain, 55
• Drafting, 94
• Drag take-up, 103
• Drawing, 17
• Drawing-in, 49
• Dressing machine, 5
• Dressing, old system, 5
• Drop box, 134
• Drying cylinders, 41
• Dwell of slay, 62
• E
• Eccentricity of slay, 62
• Engines, horse-power, 158
• Examples wage calculations, 154
• Expanding comb, 26, 42
• Exports, cotton cloth, 10, 84, 85, 86, 87
• F
• Factory Acts, 7
• Falling rods, 26
• Fancy cloth, classification of, 89
• Farina, 35
• Fast reed, 64
• Faults in cloth, 81
• Feel, 32
• Fermenting flour, 34, 39
• Figured canvas, 130
• Figured cloth, 90
• Figured dhooties, 110
• Figured gauze, 130
• FIGURES:—
• Frontispiece: Single-action jacquard loom
• 1 Perfect cotton fibre
• 2 Section of same
• 3 Imperfect fibre
• 4 Section of same
• 5 Seed and fibres
• 6 Section of fibres
• 7 Winding frame
• 8 Traverse (winding)
• 9 Warping, falling rods
• 10 Stop-motion warping, elev.
• 11 Stop-motion warping, plan
• 12 Beam gearing, slasher, section
• 13 Beam gearing, slasher,elev.
• 14 Presser slasher, plan
• 15 Presser slasher, section
• 16 Slow motion slasher, plan
• 17 Dhootie marker
• 18 Heald
• 19 Metallic heald
• 20 Reed
• 21 Plain loom, front view
• 22 Plain loom (right hand), back view
• 23 Bradford loom
• 24 Diagram—eccentricity of slay
• 25 Shuttle-box and frog, fast reed
• 26 Take-up motion
• 27 Weft stop motion
• 28 Plain tappet
• 29 Point paper
• 30 Plain cloth
• 31 Plan of cloth
• 32 Design
• 33 Draft
• 34 Lifting plan and tie
• 35 Draft
• 36 Draft
• 37 Design, etc.
• 38 Draft and tie
• 39 Sateen
• 40 Plain
• 41 Sateen and plain
• 42 Plate, sateen tappet
• 43 Smalley’s motion on loom
• 44 Four-leaf twill
• 45 Four-leaf twill
• 46 Velveteen
• 47 Constitution cord
• 48 Keighley dobby
• 49 Dobby lattice
• 50 Dobby pegging
• 51 Blackburn dobby
• 52 Dobby pegging
• 53 Gauze—sketch
• 54 Gauze—section
• 55 Leno—sketch
• 56 Draft—gauze
• 57 Doup heald
• 58 Netting
• 59 Netting
• 60 Figured gauze—sketch
• 61 Handkerchief loom
• 62 Jacquard—section, single-action
• 63 Needles, jacquard
• 64 Double-action jacquard—single cylinder
• 65 Double-action jacquard—double cylinder
• 66 London tie
• 67 Straight tie
• 68 Lay-over tie
• 69 Centre tie
• 70 Piano card-cutting machine
• 71 Diggle’s chain
• 72 Chain links for ditto
• 73 Wright Shaw’s drop box
• 74 Plates for ditto
• (Also vide Plates.)
• Finishing, 83
• Floats, 81
• Flour, 34
• Flour, testing, 34
• Fork and grid motion, 68
• Friction—sizing, 43
• Fustian, 102
• G
• Gaiting warps, 72
• Gauze, 111
• Gingham, 134
• Goods made—1800–1860, 8
• Goods made—present time, 83
• Grist, 143
• Ground for jacquard patterns, 109, 129
• H
• Handkerchiefs, 115, 134
• Handkerchief loom, 116
• Hands of looms, 71
• Hank, 143
• Hank, winding from, 25
• Haslingden trade, 12
• Headings, 82
• Headles, 51
• Heald counts, 148
• Heald motions, 79
• Healds, 51
• Heck box, 30
• Heddles, 51
• Heddling, 94
• History of trade, 3
• Honeycomb, 95, 131
• Hooking, 80
• Horse-power, 158
• Hydrometer, 38
• I
• ILLUSTRATIONS:—
• Beam gearing, slasher, plan, 42
• Beam gearing, slasher, section, 43
• Blackburn dobby, 107
• Bradford loom, 59
• Centre tie, 126
• Chain links, Diggle’s motion, 137
• Constitution cord, 102
• Cotton fibre, 15
• Cotton fibre, section, 15
• Design, 92, 96, 98, 101 and 102
• Dhootie marker, 47
• Diggle’s chain drop box, 136
• Dobbies, 104, 107
• Dobby pegging, 106, 108
• Dobby lattice, 106
• Double-action jacquard, Single cylinder, 123
• Ditto, double cylinder, 124
• Doup healds, 113
• Drafts, 92, 94, 95
• Eccentricity of slay, 62
• Fast reed loom, 64
• Figured gauze, 115
• Four-leaf twill, 2
• Gauze, 112
• Handkerchief loom, 116
• Healds, 50
• Heald motions, 56
• Imperfect cotton fibre, 15
• Imperfect cotton fibre, section, 15
• Jacquard loom, single action, Frontispiece
• Jacquard loom, single action, section, 119
• Jacquard loom, double action, 123
• Jacquard loom, double action, double cylinder, 124
• Keighley dobby, 104
• Lay-over tie, 126
• Leno, 112
• Lifting plan, 92, 97
• Looms, 53, 59
• London tie, 125
• Metallic healds, 50
• Needles, 122
• Netting, 114, 115
• Parts of loom, 56
• Pegging for dobby, 106, 108
• Perfect cotton fibre, 15
• Piano card-cutting machine, 128
• Plain cloth, 91
• Plain loom, 53
• Plain loom in parts, 56
• Plain tappets, 75
• Plates, Wright Shaw’s loom, 140
• Point paper, 90
• Plan of cloth, 91
• Plan of shed—Plate I., 19
• Presser, slasher, plan, 45
• Presser, slasher, section, 45
• Reed, 50
• Sateen, 98
• Sectional warping—Plate III., 29
• Seed and fibre, 15
• Shuttle box and frog, 64
• Slasher sizing machine, 40
• Slow motion, 46
• Smalley’s motion, 99
• Stop motion, warping, plan, 27
• Stop motion, warping, section, 27
• Straight tie, 125
• Take-up motion, 26
• Tappet plates, 75
• Ties, 125, 126
• Traverse motion, winding frame, 23
• Velveteen, 101
• Warping, falling rods, 24
• Warping, stop motion, 27
• Weft stop motion, 68
• Winding frame, 22
• Wright Shaw’s drop box, 138
• Indian cotton, 16
• Ingredients, size, 34
• Introduction, 1
• Inventions, 3
• Ireland, cotton trade of, 14
• J
• Jacconetts, 86
• Jacquard, 119
• Capacity, 118
• Cards, 120, 127
• Cloth, 129
• Weaving, 127
• K
• Keighley dobby, 104
• L
• Lappet weaving, 142
• Lay-over tie, 126
• Lease, 30
• Leash, 110, 120
• Legislation, 6
• Length warps, 149, 152
• Leno, 88, 112, 114
• Liability for mildew, 37
• Lifting plan, 96
• Limited liability, 7, 9
• Linen counts, 144
• Long cloths, 85
• Long stick, 167
• Loom, 52
• Loom fixing, 71
• Looming, 49
• Looms, number of, 11
• Loose reed, 4, 63
• M
• Madapollams, 85
• Madras muslin, 130
• Manchester trade, 12
• Mangle wheel motion, 23
• Manufacturing, meaning of term, 1
• Manufacturing processes, 19
• Market town, 2
• Marking motions, 47
• Mashes, 81
• Measuring motion—warping, 28
• Measuring motion—weaving, 117
• Merchandise Marks Act, 8
• Metallic healds, 51
• Metal size, 36
• Mexicans, 85
• Mildew , 36
• Mildew, liability for, 37
• Mildew, prevention of, 36
• Milling up, 149
• Mixings, cotton, 17
• Mixings, size, 37
• Mixings, light size, 39
• Mixings, medium size, 39
• Mixings, heavy size, 39
• Movements of loom, 55
• Mull, 86
• N
• Netting, 115
• Non-positive take-up, 103
• Number of machines in shed, 19
• O
• Oatmeal cloth, 109, 129
• Oldham trade, 13
• Opening, 17
• Overlookers (loom), 72
• Overpick, 59
• Osbaldeston, John, 4
• P
• Packing, 83
• Parts of a loom, 55, 56
• Pattern pricking, 90
• Pegging for dobby, 106, 109, 111
• Percentages of size, 33, 38, 149, 153
• Percentages of waste, 27, 154
• Picking, 55, 59
• Pile weaving, 101, 131
• Pillow-slip weaving, 109
• Plain cloth, 84, 90, 91
• Plain drafting, 55
• Plain loom, 52
• Plaiting, 80
• Plan of shed, 18
• PLATES:—
• I. Plan of shed, 19
• II. Stop-motion warping, 27
• III. Sectional warping, 29
• IV. Slasher sizing machine, 40
• V. Plain loom in parts, 56
• VI. Heald top motions, 56
• VII. Dobbied loom, 104
• Point paper, 90
• Position of warp, 58
• Potato starch, 35
• Preparatory processes, 19, 21
• Pressers, 45
• Preston trade, 12
• Printers, 86
• Processes, spinning, 17
• Processes, weaving, 19
• Q
• Quilts, 131
• R
• Raising, 83, 103
• Rating goods, 149
• Reed and pick, 85
• Reed counts, 146
• Reeds, 51
• Reed space, 79
• Reed table, 148
• Reedy cloth, 81
• Repeating jacquard cards, 128
• Rice starch, 35
• Ring bobbins, 24
• Rochdale trade, 13
• Roving, 17
• S
• Sago, 35
• Satin, 98, 100
• Sateens, 87
• Sateen motion, 99
• Scotch reed counts, 147
• Scotch trade, 13
• Scroll pick, 78
• Scutching, 17
• Sea Island cotton, 16
• Sectional warping, 28
• Selection, warp, 21, 33
• Selection, weft, 60
• Selection, yarns, 21, 60
• Shed, 19
• Shedding, 57
• Shedding motion, 79
• Shed (warp), 54, 58
• Shirtings, 84
• Short stick, 168
• Shuttle, 60
• Shuttle flying, 73
• Shuttle race, 60, 63
• Side tappets, 58
• Silk counts, 144
• Site for shed, 20
• Size of warp shed, 58
• Sizing calculations, 149, 152
• Sizing—drying, 41
• Sizing headstock, 42
• Sizing machinery, 5, 39
• Sizing materials, 34
• Sizing—object, 32
• Sizing—percentages, 33, 38
• Sizing rollers, 40
• Sizing under pressure, 41
• Slasher, 39
• Slashing, 39
• Slay, 60
• Slow motion, 45
• Slubbing, 17
• Smalley’s motion, 99
• Smash, 81
• Snarls, 22
• Snicks, 22
• Soap, 35
• Soda, 36
• Softener, 34, 35, 37
• Sow box, 40
• Specification shed, 19
• Speed loom, 79
• Speed shafts, 156
• Speed tappet shaft, 76
• Spindles, number of, 11
• Spinning department, 16
• Spinning—mule, throstle, ring, 18
• Split motion, 78
• Split rods, 42
• Splits, 77
• Standard goods, 88
• Starches, 34, 37
• Statistics, 9
• Steeping flour, 34, 39
• Stockport counts, 147
• Stockport trade, 13
• Stop motion, warping, 26
• Straight tie, 125
• Stripes, 101, 133
• Surat cotton, 16
• Syllabus—Cotton manufacture, 161
• Syllabus—Weaving and pattern designing, 162
• T
• Tackling, 72
• Take-up motions, 65, 103
• Tallow, 35
• Taping, 39
• Tappets, 55, 57, 75, 97
• Tappets, construction, 57, 99
• Tappets, plain, 55, 57
• [T]-cloth, 85
• Terry towels, 132
• Temple rollers, 4, 69
• Testing yarn, 146
• Thick sets, 102
• Throstle bobbins, 24
• Tie, 97
• Tie for jacquard, 124
• Toilet cloth, 131
• Top motions, 79
• Timing, 70
• Tooth, 28
• Traverse, 23
• Treading plan, 97
• Turkey-reds, 86
• Turkish towels, 132
• Twaddle, 38
• Twill shaft speed, 76, 157
• Twist, 21, 33
• Twisting, 49
• Two and three-fold yarn, 145
• U
• Under pick, 78
• Uneven cloth, 81
• Uplands cotton, 16
• V
• Varieties of goods, 83
• Velveteens, 87, 101
• W
• Wages—looming, 50
• Wages—weaving, 74
• Wages—winding, 24
• Wages—standard list, 154
• Ward’s dobby, 105
• Warp, 21, 33
• Warping (beam), 25
• Warping calculations, 28, 29, 30, 152
• Warping mill, 30
• Warping several counts, 28
• Warping stop motion, 26
• Warp line, 58
• Warp pile, 90, 131
• Waste, 27, 74
• Waste, weaver’s, 74
• Wax, 35
• Weavers, 74
• Weaving, 52
• Weaving and pattern designing syllabus, 162
• Weft, 61
• Weft pile, 101
• Weft stop motion, 4, 67
• Weight-giving size, 36
• Weight piece, 149
• Weight size in piece, 149, 153
• Weight warp in piece, 149
• Weight weft in piece, 149
• Winding, 22
• Winding frame, 22
• Witch machine, 108
• Working design, 97
• Workpeople, number of, 11
• Worsted counts, 144
• Woven pile, 90, 101, 131
• Wrap reel, 144
• Wrap, warpers’, 28
• Wrapping, 144
• Wright Shaw’s drop box, 138
• Y
• Yarn calculations, 143
• Yarn measure, 143
• Yorkshire loom, 58
• Z
• Zinc, muriate of, 36

PRINTED BY BALLANTYNE, HANSON AND CO.
EDINBURGH AND LONDON