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Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition cover

Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition

Chapter 18: PICK-AND-PICK LOOM.
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About This Book

A practical manual that systematically explains the stages and machinery used in preparing cotton yarn and producing woven cloth, beginning with winding, warping, sizing, beaming, and looming. It surveys hand and power looms, drop and circular box looms, dobbies, jacquard and leno weaves, and specialized techniques such as terry looms, card cutting, and lappets. A chapter on automatic weft-replenishing devices describes emerging mechanization. The book also presents the principles and methods of textile design and figured patterning, and supplies calculations, worked examples, and numerous diagrams to guide students and practitioners in planning, setting up, and troubleshooting weaving operations.

PICK-AND-PICK LOOM.

The majority of box looms are made with movable boxes at one side of the loom only, so that single picks of any colour cannot be put in the cloth at will. As it is very desirable in many fabrics to use single picks of a colour or count of weft, it is necessary to have movable boxes at both sides of the loom, and where this is the case it is usual to have picking mechanism which will allow of several picks being made in succession from either side of the loom. If the matter be carefully thought over, it will be easily apparent that even with drop boxes worked quite independently of each other at both sides of the loom, if the picking mechanism is of the ordinary kind—viz. to pick once from each side alternately—it would be impossible to obtain that variety of changes in the shuttles which is in many cases necessary. In a loom with two boxes at each side worked independently, it would be impossible to obtain single picks alternately of two colours or counts. But by being able to pick twice in succession from each side this can be done. By going through all the changes possible with a given number of boxes, the advantage of this kind of picking arrangement will be very apparent, in the command it gives over any shuttle in the series for any pick. It is therefore necessary to have the picking mechanism aforementioned in order to allow of all the boxes being emptied at one side if required. A loom of this character is called a “pick-and-pick” loom; the picking motion is sometimes called a “pick at will” motion. The loom which we take as an example is one on the Diggle’s chain principle. There are two chains, placed at one side of the loom for convenience. Both chains are on one barrel, A (Fig. 82). The chain for working the boxes at the right-hand side of the loom operates the lever B, and the left-hand chain operates the lever C, the fulcrum of both levers being at D. When these levers are lifted they lift the levers E and F, and when E is lifted it lifts the boxes at the right-hand of the loom, and when F is lifted it lifts the left-hand boxes. The connection of the left-hand boxes with the lever F is shown at Fig. 83. The shaft G is placed under the loom, and the left-hand boxes are connected to the lever H, which is fast to the shaft G. The lever F is also fast to the shaft G, but the lever E rides loosely upon this shaft, which merely serves as a fulcrum for E. From these two figures it will be clearly understood how the boxes may be worked independently at both sides of the loom by two chains placed side by side upon the barrel A.

FIG. 82.

FIG. 83.

FIG. 84.

FIG. 85.

In order to make each link in these chains represent any number of picks, and thus prevent long cumbersome chains, the mechanism shown at Figs. 84 to 87 is employed. The barrel A in Fig. 84 is the same as barrel A in Fig. 82, and carries the chains for lifting the levers B and C. At the end of the barrel the star wheel I is fixed, and this star wheel is turned by the pins J. These pins are worked by a clutch motion shown at Fig. 86, by which they can be withdrawn from gear with the star wheel as desired. The pins KK are fixed, and turn one tooth of the star wheel Y every pick, the wheel M having twice the number of teeth contained in L, which is on the crank shaft of the loom. The star wheel Y is fast to the end of a small octagonal barrel, which carries a pattern chain N composed of small metal cards, and we have seen how this barrel is turned one division every pick. Above this pattern chain N a finger, O (Fig. 86), is placed, and is lifted up against a spring every pick by the cam P on the face of the wheel M. When the finger is up, the pins JJ are taken inside the wheel M, as shown at Fig. 86. The cam P only raises the finger a sufficient length of time to allow the barrel Y to be turned round, and if there is a blank in the cards opposite the finger O when it is let down by the cam it will still keep the pins J inside the wheel, and will thus prevent either of them from engaging with the star wheel I, and will leave the boxes unchanged. This can be repeated any number of picks. If a change is required in the boxes, a hole is placed opposite the finger O, and when it is let down the pins J project through the wheel M (as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 86), and the star wheel I will thus be turned one tooth, and the chain can make the change required in the boxes.

FIG. 86.

FIG. 87.

Fig. 87 is another view of the cam-shaped projection P, which raises the finger every pick, and Fig. 85 is another view of the chain barrel A. The letters in the six Figs. 82 to 87 inclusive refer to the same parts in each case.

In this way the chains on A are rarely required to be very long, as one link may be made to represent any number of picks from one upwards. Of course a separate card on Y is required for each pick, but these are very small, only about 1½ inch in length, and a large pattern can be made with very little trouble.

When a Jacquard is used on one of these looms it is sometimes necessary to work the pattern from the Jacquard cards. This can be done in a very simple manner by covering the hole in the barrel carrying the cards N with a metal plate, which is held over the hole by a spring. When a change is required in the boxes, a Jacquard hook pulls the plate from over the hole, and allows the finger O to drop, and thus causes the star wheel I to be engaged by the pins J.

The picking mechanism in a pick-and-pick loom may be either over or under pick. In the former the picking tappets are sometimes moved on the shaft by a clutch arrangement. In the latter the top of the picking treadle is movable. As the under pick is perhaps the best adapted for this loom, we will describe it.

FIG. 88.

Fig. 88 is a side view of the loom, and the top of the picking treadles consists of a metal plate with the “shoe” S of such a shape as to give the required force and character to the pick. This metal plate works round a pivot, P. The treadles at both sides of the loom are the same in this respect. At the back of the loom a rod, R, is connected to the extreme ends of the loose plates or the treadles, and when one plate is on the treadle, the other is fixed off its treadle, as shown in Fig. 89. The consequence is that when the picking bowls come round (there are two bowls on the bottom shaft at each side of the loom) the loom will pick always from that side where the loose plate is on the treadle, and at the other side, where the plate is off, the bowls will pass over the treadle without touching it. By moving the rod R sideways, the plates may be moved alternately off and on their treadles.

FIG. 89.

FIG. 90.

If the loom has four boxes at each side, it may be necessary to pick four times in succession from one side of the loom, and by a simple arrangement the picking can be regulated at will. The mechanism for moving the rod R sideways is shown at Fig. 90. Inside the loom framework a lever, L, is centred at C, and by a combination of levers is connected to the rod R, which is the rod referred to in the previous diagrams. A strong spring keeps the plates right for picking from one side, but when it is required to pick from the other the lever L is lifted, which moves the rod R sideways and moves the plate off one treadle and on the other. A chain is used for lifting the lever L, and the star wheel A is turned by two pins on the wheel B on the bottom shaft of the loom, or by one pin if on the crank shaft, thus causing the star wheel to be turned one division every pick. The loom may thus be made to pick four times from the right side, three from the left, twice from the right, and so on, of course always taking care that the shuttles are there to be picked.