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A practical manual that systematically explains the stages and machinery used in preparing cotton yarn and producing woven cloth, beginning with winding, warping, sizing, beaming, and looming. It surveys hand and power looms, drop and circular box looms, dobbies, jacquard and leno weaves, and specialized techniques such as terry looms, card cutting, and lappets. A chapter on automatic weft-replenishing devices describes emerging mechanization. The book also presents the principles and methods of textile design and figured patterning, and supplies calculations, worked examples, and numerous diagrams to guide students and practitioners in planning, setting up, and troubleshooting weaving operations.
A full cross may be made by taking the doup completely round the standard end, as in Fig. 143, and alternately lifting the doup and the other end. This is a much more difficult weave than ordinary leno, and is not much used, although it gives a very pleasing effect when woven with thick yarns. The weave repeats on two picks as in gauze, but it is necessary to use very strong twist in order to bear the strain and friction unavoidable in this crossing.