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Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition cover

Cotton Weaving and Designing / 6th Edition

Chapter 39: UNIFORM LIST OF PRICES FOR WEAVING.
By John T. Taylor
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About This Book

A practical manual that systematically explains the stages and machinery used in preparing cotton yarn and producing woven cloth, beginning with winding, warping, sizing, beaming, and looming. It surveys hand and power looms, drop and circular box looms, dobbies, jacquard and leno weaves, and specialized techniques such as terry looms, card cutting, and lappets. A chapter on automatic weft-replenishing devices describes emerging mechanization. The book also presents the principles and methods of textile design and figured patterning, and supplies calculations, worked examples, and numerous diagrams to guide students and practitioners in planning, setting up, and troubleshooting weaving operations.

UNIFORM LIST OF PRICES FOR WEAVING.

1. The Standard.—The standard upon which this list is based is an ordinary loom, 45 inches reed space, measured from the fork grate on one side to the back board on the other, weaving cloth as follows:—

Width: 39, 40, 41 inches.

Reed: 60 reed, 2 ends in a dent, or 60 ends per inch.

Picks: 15 picks per quarter-inch, ascertained by arithmetical calculation, with 1½ per cent. added for contraction.

Length: 100 yards, 36 inches to the yard, measured on the counter. Any length of lap other than 36 inches to be paid in proportion.

Twist: 28’s, or any finer numbers.

Weft: 31’s to 100’s inclusive.

Price 2s. 6d., or 2d. per pick, per quarter-inch.

2. Width of Looms.—A 45-inch reed space loom being taken as the standard, 1½ per cent. shall be added for each inch up to and including 51 inches; 2 per cent. from 51 to 56 inches; 2½ per cent. from 56 to 64 inches; and 3 per cent. from 64 to 72 inches.

1¼ per cent. shall be deducted for each inch from 45 to 37 inches inclusive, and 1 per cent. from 37 to 24 inches, below which no further deduction shall be made. For any fraction of an inch up to the half no addition or deduction shall be made; but if over the half, the same shall be paid as if it were a full inch.

All additions or deductions under this clause to be added to, or taken from, the price of the standard loom 45 inches.

DEDUCTED FROM STANDARD.

Loom.
Percentage.
Loom.
Percentage.
Inches.
 
Inches.
 
24
23
35
12 
25
22
36
11 
26
21
37
10 
27
20
38
  8¾
28
19
39
  7½
29
18
40
  6¼
30
17
41
 5 
31
16
42
  3¾
32
15
43
  2½
33
14
44
  1¼
34
13
45
standard

ADDED TO STANDARD.

Loom.
Percentage.
Loom.
Percentage.
Inches.
 
Inches.
 
46
  1½
59
 26½
47
 3 
60
29 
48
  4½
61
 31½
49
 6 
62
34 
50
  7½
63
 36½
51
 9 
64
39 
52
11 
65
42 
53
13 
66
45 
54
15 
67
48 
55
17 
68
51 
56
19 
69
54 
57
 21½
70
57 
58
24 
71
60 
 
 
72
63 

3. Broader Cloth than admitted by Rule.—All looms shall be allowed to weave to within 4 inches of the reed space; but whenever the difference between the width of cloth and the reed space is less than 4 inches, it shall be paid as if the loom were 1 inch broader: and if less than 3 inches, as if it were 2½ inches broader.

4. Allowance for Cloth 7 to 15 inches narrower than the Reed Space.—When the cloth is from 7 to 15 inches narrower than the reed space of the loom in which it is woven, a deduction in accordance with the following table shall be made:—

DEDUCTIONS FOR NARROW CLOTH.