PART THE SECOND.
MEATS.
VEAL À LA MODE.
Rub a fillet of veal all over with salt, and then lard it. Make a seasoning of chopped sweet-herbs, shalots, mushrooms, pepper, salt, and powdered nutmeg, and mace. Moisten it with sweet oil, and cover the veal all over with it. Put the veal into a tureen, and let it set for several hours or all night. Then take it out, covered as it is with the seasoning, and wrap it in two sheets of white paper, well buttered, and roast or bake it. When it is quite done, take off the paper, and scrape off all the seasoning from the veal. Put the seasoning into a sauce-pan with the gravy, the juice of half a lemon, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a little salt. Give it a boil, skim it well, and pour it over the veal.
VEAL CUTLETS.
Make a seasoning of grated bread, minced ham, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and chopped mushrooms if you have them. Mix with it some yolk of egg. Cut the veal into small thin slices, rub them all over with lard, and then spread the seasoning over both sides. Wrap up each cutlet carefully in white paper, oiled or buttered. Bake them slowly for three quarters of an hour, and serve them up in the papers.
BLANQUETTE OR FRICASSEE OF VEAL.
Take the remains of a cold roast fillet, or loin of veal. Cut it into small thin pieces. Put them into a stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour, salt, pepper, a few small onions minced, a bunch of sweet-herbs chopped, and one or two laurel or peach-leaves. Mix all together. Pour in a little warm water, and let it boil gently five minutes or more. When you take it off, stir in some lemon-juice and some yolk of egg slightly beaten.
GODIVEAU.
Take a large piece of fillet of veal, free from fat or skin. Mince it small, and then pound it in a mortar till it is a smooth paste. Afterwards rub it through a cullender or sieve.
Soak some slices of bread in warm milk, and rub the bread also through a sieve. There must be an equal quantity of bread and veal. Take the same proportion of butter, and beat it in a mortar with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and chopped parsley to your taste. Then put all together. Beat two or three eggs till very light, and add them gradually to the mixture. Make it into round balls or into long rolls, and fry them in butter. Or you may put it into a pie (without a lid) and bake it.
Godiveau is a very fine stuffing for poultry or wild fowl.
CALVES’ LIVER BAKED.
Lard the liver with bacon, and let it lie three or four hours in a covered tureen with a seasoning of parsley, shalots, laurel and thyme chopped small, a little pepper and salt, and two table-spoonfuls of sweet oil. Turn it several times. Then wrap it up in thin slices of bacon or cold ham, and bake or roast it about an hour and a quarter. Add to the gravy the yolk of an egg, and some minced onions and chopped sweet-herbs.
CALVES’ LIVER FRIED.
Cut the liver into thin slices, and put them into a frying-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some minced onions and a glass of white wine, salt, pepper, and a little mace. Let it fry about ten minutes.
VEAL KIDNEYS.
Cut the kidneys into thin slices; having first soaked them in cold water, rub them with a little salt and pepper. Then sprinkle them with flour, and a little parsley and onions minced fine. Fry them in butter, adding a glass of champagne or other white wine.
Mutton kidneys may be done in the same manner.
Another way of dressing kidneys is to split them in half, season them with salt and pepper, lard them, and broil them.
GRILLADES.
Cut slices from either a fillet of veal, a round of fresh beef, a leg of mutton, or a leg of pork. Do not let them exceed the thickness of half an inch. Put them into a stew-pan with a sufficient proportion of oil, pepper, salt, and a little parsley and onion chopped fine. Stew them in a very little water till half done. Then prepare some sheets of white paper rubbed with oil or butter. Take out the slices of meat (covered with this seasoning) and grate some bread crumbs over them. Fasten up each slice in a piece of paper, and broil them on a gridiron over a slow fire. Serve them up in the paper.
LIVER CAKE.
Take a pound and a half of grated bread, and two pounds of liver (either calves’ or pigs’) a few onions, a little sage, some mushrooms, and a laurel leaf, all chopped fine. Mince the liver also, and mix it with the other ingredients, adding salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Butter a mould or a very deep dish. Put the mixture into it, and let it bake an hour and a half in a moderate oven. When done, turn it out.
It is eaten cold, cut in slices.
SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
Rub your beef all over with salt, and lard the lean part of it with slips of fat bacon. Cover the meat with sheets of oiled or buttered paper. Roast it in proportion to its size, between three and four hours.
Serve it up with its gravy, and have some onion sauce in a boat.
STEWED BEEF.
Take some slices of cold roast beef that has been under-done. Put them into a stew-pan with a little gravy or broth, or if you have neither, some warm water. Add a piece of butter rolled in flour, some capers, or some pickled cucumbers chopped small, a little lemon-juice or vinegar, and some salt and pepper. Let the beef simmer slowly, but do not allow it to boil. Have ready some slices of bread (of the same size as the slices of beef) and fry them in butter. Put some tomata sauce in the bottom of a dish. Lay on it in a pile a few slices of beef and slices of fried bread alternately. Pour the gravy over it, and send it to table.
Any other sort of meat may be done in the same manner.
BEEF STEAKS.
Cut slices of beef from the sirloin. Trim them neatly, and take off the bone and the skin. To make them tender beat them on both sides with a wooden beetle or with the end of a rolling-pin. Rub them with salt and pepper. Warm a sufficient quantity of butter, and when it is soft spread it over the steaks. Then sprinkle them with onions minced very fine. Cover them up in a dish, and let them lie an hour or more in the seasoning. Then broil them over a clear fire. Slice some cold boiled potatoes, fry them in butter, and lay them round the steaks.
BEEF À LA MODE.
Take a round of fresh beef, and beat it well to make it tender. Rub it all over with salt and pepper. Lard it on both sides with slips of bacon. Lay it in a deep pan with some slices of bacon, a calves-foot, a few onions, a carrot cut in pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs cut small, one or two laurel leaves, some cloves, and a beaten nutmeg. Pour in a half-pint of red wine, a half-pint of white wine, and a spoonful of brandy. Let it stew slowly for at least six hours. Then take it out; strain the gravy, pour it over the meat, and serve it up.
A fillet of veal may be done in the same manner.
ROASTED HAM.
Let your ham soak all night in cold water, and then trim it handsomely, having first taken out the bone by loosening the meat all round it, with the point of a knife. Tie a broad tape round the ham to keep it in shape. Then put it into a large pan with some sliced onions, some sprigs of parsley, two or three laurel leaves, and a bottle of white wine. Cover it, and let it lie in the seasoning twenty-four hours. Then roast it, and baste it with the seasoning. A large ham will require four or five hours to roast. A little before it is done, take off the skin and sprinkle the ham with grated bread crumbs.
While the ham is roasting, stew together the bone and the trimmings and scraps till they come to a jelly, which you must strain through a sieve. When you take the ham from the spit (having removed the tape that has been fastened round it) glaze it all over with the jelly, laid on with a brush or a quill feather. Serve it up with the seasoning or marinade under it.
If the ham is to be eaten cold, you may cover it all over the glazing with cold boiled potatoes grated finely, so that it will look like a large cake covered with icing. Ornament it with slices of boiled carrot, beets, &c. scolloped and laid on the potatoes, in handsome forms, so as to look like red and yellow flowering. Stick a large bunch of double parsley in the centre.
A ham boiled in the usual manner may be ornamented in the same way; first extracting the bone, and making the meat into a circular shape.
Instead of a mere bunch of double parsley, you may stick in the centre of the ham a nosegay of flowers, formed of different culinary vegetables, and cut into proper shape with a sharp pen-knife. All these vegetables must be raw. The flowers intended to represent red roses must be made of beets, the white roses of turnips, and the marigolds or other deep yellow flowers must be cut out of carrots. The pieces of turnips and beets must first be made with the pen-knife into the form of a ball, on the surface of which the rose-leaves must be cut. The carrots may be cut into flat slices, and then notched to look like marigolds or chrysanthemums. Stick each flower on the end of a small wooden skewer, which will answer for the stalk, but which must be concealed by thick bunches of double parsley tied on so as to represent the green leaves. Tie all the skewers together at the bottom with a pack-thread, and the whole will have the effect of a handsome nosegay when placed in the middle of the ham.
A round of cold à-la-mode beef may be ornamented with a bunch of these flowers. Let the beef itself be covered all over with parsley, so as to resemble a green bank.
FRIED HAM, WITH TOMATAS.
Fry some slices of cold boiled ham. Then fry some tomatas, allowing one tomata to each slice of meat. Lay the tomatas on the ham, shake some pepper over them, and send them to table.
ROASTED TONGUE.
Having soaked a large smoked tongue all night in cold water, parboil it in a very little warm water with a slice of bacon, a bunch of sweet herbs, and an onion or two stuck with cloves. When it is nearly done, take it out, drain it, and lard it with large slips of bacon on the upper side, and small pieces on the under side. Then put it on the spit and roast it half an hour, and serve it up with pungent sauce (Sauce Piquante.)
BAKED TONGUE.
Take a cold boiled tongue and cut it into slices. Put in the bottom of a deep dish a little vinegar, with some capers, parsley and shalots minced fine, and some grated bread, all mixed together. Lay the slices of tongue upon this, and cover them with some more of the same seasoning. Then grate some bread all over the top. Moisten the whole by pouring in a little warm water. Put the dish into a stove moderately heated, or set it on a slow furnace. Bake it till brown.
POTTED TONGUE.
Boil two smoked tongues. Skin them and cut them into thin slices. Put the slices (a few at a time) into a mortar and beat them to a paste, adding gradually a pound of butter. Then prepare an equal quantity of the lean of stewed veal, and pound that also in the mortar (a little at a time) with the same proportion of butter. Then make the veal and the tongue into lumps, and put them alternately into your stone pots, pressing them together so as to look like red and white marble. Have a layer of veal at the top. Press the whole down very hard. Fill up the pots with butter, boiled and skimmed and poured on warm. Tie them up closely with parchment, and keep them in a cold but dry place.
When you use it, cut it in slices.
LEG OF MUTTON WITH OYSTERS.
Rub a leg of mutton all over with salt, and put it on the spit to roast with a clear fire, basting it with its own gravy. When it is nearly done, take it up and with a sharp knife make incisions all over it, and stuff an oyster into every hole. Then put it again before the fire, to finish roasting.
Before you serve it up, skim the gravy well, and give it a boil with a glass of red wine.
CUTLETS À LA MAINTENON.
Cut a neck of mutton into chops, leaving a bone to each, but scraping the end of the bone quite clean. Mix together some grated bread, and some marjoram and onion chopped fine. Season it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Having melted some butter, dip each chop into it, and then cover them on both sides with the seasoning. Butter some half-sheets of white paper, and put the cutlets into them, leaving the end of each bone to stick out of the paper like a handle. Lay them on a gridiron, and broil them for about twenty minutes on clear lively coals. Serve them up in the papers.
Make a sauce of four shalots or little onions chopped fine, some gravy, a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of red wine. Boil this sauce for a minute, and send it up in a boat.
PORK CUTLETS.
Mince together some onions, parsley, and a laurel leaf. Season it with pepper, salt, and cloves. Cut your pork into thin steaks, and lay them in this seasoning for five or six hours. Then broil or fry them with the seasoning on them, and serve them up with sauce Robert, or with tomata sauce.
LARDED RABBIT.
Lard a fine large rabbit, and put it into a stew-pan with a slice or two of cold ham, a bunch of sweet-herbs, a table-spoonful of sweet oil, and a gill of white wine. Stew it slowly, and, when it is quite done, strain the gravy and pour it over the rabbit.
RABBITS IN PAPERS.
Take two young rabbits; cut off the limbs and put them aside. Cut the flesh from the body, and chop it very fine, mixing it with shalots, parsley, and mushrooms chopped also, and, if you choose, a clove of garlic. Season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and moisten it with sweet oil. Lay the legs of the rabbit in this mixture, for three or four hours. Then take out separately each leg covered with the seasoning, lay on it a thin slice of bacon or cold ham, and wrap it in a sheet of white paper well buttered. Broil the limbs slowly on the gridiron, and serve them up hot in the papers.
Fowls may be done in the same manner. Ducks also.
PILAU.
Take half a dozen slices of the lean of a leg of mutton, or of fillet of veal. Put them into a stew-pan with six large onions, a carrot cut in pieces, and some parsley, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg to your taste. Add a tea-spoonful of saffron, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a little boiling water. Let it stew for an hour, and skim it well.
Have ready a pound of rice boiled soft and drained. Mix with it a large piece of butter. Put some rice in the bottom of a deep dish, and lay on it first the seasoning, and then the slices of meat in a pile. Keep the remainder of the rice over it, and set it on the stove or in the oven for ten minutes.
VEAL SWEETBREADS.
Take three sweet-breads, and soak them three or four hours in milk. Then wipe them dry, and lard them. Make a seasoning of sweet-herbs and mushrooms chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of cold ham or bacon scraped or minced, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste, and a table-spoonful of sweet-oil. Mix the seasoning very well together, and put it into a stew-pan with the sweet-breads, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little water or broth, and the same quantity of wine. Stew it about ten minutes. Then take out the sweet-breads, lay them in a deep dish, pour the seasoning over them, and let them get cold. Next prepare some cases of white paper, oil them, and cover the inside with grated bread. Put a sweet-bread into each paper-case, with some of the seasoning at bottom and top. Close the cases, put them in an oven, and bake them long enough to color the sweet-breads. Serve them up in the papers.
Set the gravy over the fire, and when it simmers take it off, and stir in the yolk of an egg slightly beaten. Keep it covered for a few minutes, and then serve it up in a boat.
PART THE THIRD.
GAME AND POULTRY.
A SALMI.
Cut off the flesh from the bodies of a pair of cold pheasants, partridges or wild-ducks, or an equal quantity of small birds. Beat it in a mortar, moistening it frequently with a little broth or gravy. Then pass the whole through a cullender or sieve. Put it into a stew-pan with a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, rolled in flour; half a pint of port wine or claret; two whole onions, and a bunch of sweet-herbs. Let it boil half an hour, and then stir in two table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and the juice of a lemon.
In another pan stew the legs and wings of the birds, but do not let them boil. Stew them in butter rolled in flour, seasoned with pepper and salt. Cut some slices of bread into triangular pieces, and fry them in butter. Lay them in the bottom of a dish, put the legs and wings upon them, and then the other part of the stew. Garnish the edge with slices of lemon, handsomely notched with a knife.
If the Salmi is made of partridges, use oranges instead of lemons for the juice and garnishing.
COLD SALMI.
This is prepared on the table. Take the liver of a roast goose, turkey, or ducks. Put some of the gravy on a plate, cut up the liver in it, and bruise it with the back of a spoon or a silver fork. Add three tea-spoonfuls of olive oil, the juice of a lemon, and cayenne pepper and salt to your taste. Mix it well. When the bird is cut up, eat with it some of this sauce.
RAGOOED LIVERS.
Take the livers of half a dozen fowls or other poultry, a dozen mushrooms, a bunch of sweet herbs, a clove of garlic or a small onion, a table-spoonful of butter rolled in flour. Add a glass of white wine, and sufficient warm water to keep the ingredients moist. Season it with salt and pepper. Stew all together, and skim it well. Before you send it to table, stir in the yolks of two or three beaten eggs, and two spoonfuls of cream.
A FINE HASH.
Take any cold game or poultry that you have. You may mix several kinds together. Some sausages, of the best sort, will be an improvement. Chop all together, and mix with it bread crumbs, chopped onions and parsley, and the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs. Put it into a sauce-pan with a proportionate piece of butter rolled in flour. Moisten it with broth, gravy, or warm water, and let it stew gently for half an hour.
Cold veal or fresh pork may be hashed in the same manner.
MARINADE OF FOWLS.
Take a pair of fowls, skin and cut them up. Wash them in lukewarm water. Drain them, and put them into a stew-pan with some butter. Season them to your taste with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice. Add parsley, onions, and a laurel leaf. Moisten them with warm water, and let them stew slowly on hot coals for two or three hours. Clear them from the seasoning and drain them. Then lay them in a dish, and grate bread crumbs over them. Whip some white of egg to a stiff froth, and cover with it all the pieces of fowl.
FRICASSEE OF FOWLS.
Skin and cut up your fowls, and soak them two hours in cold water, to make them white. Drain them. Put into a stew-pan a large piece of butter, and a table-spoonful of flour. Stir them together till the butter has melted. Add salt, pepper, a grated nutmeg, and a bunch of sweet-herbs. Pour in half a pint of cream. Put in the fowls, and let them stew three quarters of an hour. Before you send them to table, stir in the yolks of three beaten eggs, and the juice of half a lemon.
The Fricassee will be greatly improved by some mushrooms stewed with the fowl.
To keep the fricassee white, cover it (while stewing) with a sheet of buttered paper laid over the fowls. The lid of the stew-pan must be kept on tightly.
FOWLS WITH TARRAGON.
Pick two handfuls of tarragon (the leaves from the stalks) and chop half of it fine with the livers of the fowls. Mix it with butter, salt, and whole pepper. Stuff your fowls with it. Lard them and wrap them in papers buttered or oiled.
Melt some butter rolled in flour, and stir into it the rest of the tarragon. Moisten it with a little water or milk. Stir in the yolks of two beaten eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. Serve it up as gravy. Strew over the fowls some sprigs of fresh tarragon.
A STEWED FOWL.
Take a large fowl, and put it into a stew-pan with two ounces or more of butter, some thin slices of cold ham, a little parsley and onion chopped fine, and some nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Then pour in half a tumbler of white wine. You may add, if you choose, six table-spoonfuls of boiled rice, which you must afterwards serve up under the fowl and ham. Let it stew slowly for two hours, with just sufficient water to keep it from burning.
Before you send it to table, go all over the fowl with a feather or brush dipped in yolk of egg. You may add to the stew a dozen small onions, to be laid round the fowl with the slices of ham.
CHICKENS IN JELLY.
Cold chickens, pigeons, and game, look very handsome in jelly. To make this jelly, take four calves-feet (with the skin on) and boil them to a strong jelly with an ounce of isinglass and three quarts of water, carefully skimming off the fat. The calves-feet must be boiled the day before the jelly is wanted, and when it is cold scrape off all the sediment that adheres to it. Then boil the jelly with the addition of the whites and shells of six eggs, the juice of three lemons, three or four sticks of cinnamon, half a pound of loaf-sugar, and a pint of Malaga or other sweet wine. Let it boil hard for five or six minutes, but do not stir it. Strain it several times through a flannel bag into a deep white pan, but do not on any consideration squeeze or press the bag, as that will entirely spoil the transparency of the jelly. After it has done dripping through the bag, take out all the ingredients (as they are now of no farther use) and wash the bag clean. Then pour the jelly into it again, and let it strain. Repeat this till it is perfectly clear and bright; washing the bag every time. Sometimes (but not often) it will be clear at the first straining.
Put a little of the jelly into the bottom of a deep dish or bowl, and set it in a cold place. When it has congealed and is firm, lay your chickens on it with the breasts downwards. Having kept the remainder of the jelly warm, to prevent its congealing too soon, pour it over the fowls. Let it stand all night or till it is perfectly firm. Then set your dish or bowl in warm water for a moment, to loosen the jelly. Lay over it the dish in which you intend to serve it up, and turn it out carefully. If you fear that you will not be able to turn it out without breaking the jelly, you may prepare it at the beginning in a deep china dish fit to send to table.
If you put too much water to the calves-feet, the jelly will never be firm, till it is boiled over again with more isinglass. The generality of cooks are in the habit of putting too much water to every thing, and should be cautioned accordingly.
PULLED CHICKENS.
Boil a pair of fowls till they are about half done. Then skin them, and pull the flesh from the bones in pieces about a finger in breadth and half a finger in length. Take a few table-spoonfuls of the liquor they were boiled in, and mix it with half a pint of boiling cream. Put it into a stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour; pepper, salt, and nutmeg; a little chopped parsley; and a table-spoonful of white wine. Put in the pieces of chicken, and stew them slowly till quite done.
STEWED TURKEY, OR TURKEY EN DAUBE.
Take a large turkey; lard it and stuff it as for roasting. Then cover it all over with a seasoning made of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and sweet-herbs, parsley and onions, minced fine. Put it into a stew-pan, with some slices of bacon, one or two calves-feet, some onions and carrots, one or two laurel leaves, a few cloves, a beaten nutmeg, salt, pepper, and, if you choose, a clove of garlic. Pour in a pint of water, and a pint of white wine or brandy.
Put on the cover of the stew-pan, and lay round its edge on the outside a wet cloth, which must be kept wet. Stew it slowly for five or six hours or more, and turn the turkey when about half done. When it is finished, withdraw the fire, and skim and strain the gravy. Serve up the turkey with the gravy under it.
A goose done this way is very fine.
A round of beef may be stewed in the same manner. It will be the better for lying all night in the seasoning, and it should be put in to stew early in the morning.
ROASTED TURKEY.
Rub the turkey all over with salt. Then lard it. You may stuff it with sausage-meat; or with chestnuts previously boiled, peeled, and mashed. Or, you may make a force-meat stuffing of the liver, heart, and gizzard, chopped fine, and mixed with chopped parsley, onions, sweet-herbs, grated bread, butter, lemon-juice, grated lemon-peel, and the yolk of one or two eggs.
A turkey of moderate size will require at least two hours to roast. Thicken the gravy with yolk of egg stirred in just before you send it to table.
A cold roast turkey should be larded and served up with large spoonfuls of stiff currant jelly dropped all over it.
You may roast a goose in the same manner.
POTTED GOOSE.
Take several fine geese; rub them with salt, and put into each a handful of sage leaves. Roast them about an hour. Do not baste them, but save all the fat in the dripping-pan, emptying it as it is filled. When you have taken the geese from the spit, cut off the legs and wings, and cut the flesh from the breast in slices. Set them away to get cold.
Put the fat that has dripped from the geese into a kettle, with about half as much lard as there is of the dripping. Boil it ten minutes. Have ready a tall stone jar, or more than one if necessary. Lay two legs of the geese side by side in the bottom, and sprinkle them with salt and pepper; placing, if you choose, a laurel leaf on each. Then put in two wings, and season them also. Next a layer of the slices cut from the breast, seasoned in the same manner. When the pots are almost full of the goose, fill them up to the top with the boiling fat, and set them away till the next day to get cold. The upper layer must be covered at least an inch thick with the fat.
Tie up the pots with covers of parchment wet with brandy, and keep them in a cold but not in a damp place.
In France great numbers of geese are fattened for this purpose.
DUCKS WITH TURNIPS.
Stew some turnips with butter, salt, and a little sugar. When soft, take them out and drain them. Cut up your ducks, season them, and put them into the same pan that has held the turnips. Stew the ducks with a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little water, and a bunch of sweet-herbs tied up. When the ducks are nearly done, put the turnips in again, and let all stew slowly together for ten minutes, skimming it well. Withdraw the sweet-herbs before you send the dish to table.
A DUCK WITH OLIVES.
Having larded your duck, stew it whole, with butter, pepper, salt, and a little water. Take half a pint of olives, cut them in half and take out the seeds or stones. When the duck is nearly done, throw in the olives, and let all stew together about five minutes or more. Serve up the duck with the olives round it.
A DUCK WITH PEAS.
Stew the duck whole, with some lard and a little salt, till about half done. Then take it out and drain it. Put into the stew-pan a large piece of butter rolled in flour. When it has melted, pour in a quart of shelled green peas, and add a bunch of mint, or other sweet herbs, and some pepper and salt. Then put in the duck, adding a little warm water. Let it stew slowly till quite done, skimming it well.
TURKEY PUDDINGS.
Mince thirty small onions and mix them with an equal quantity of bread crumbs that have been soaked in milk. Chop an equal quantity of the flesh of cold turkey. Mix all together, and pound it very well in a mortar. Pass it through a cullender, and then return it to the mortar and beat it again, adding gradually the yolks of six hard eggs, and a pint of cream or half a pound of butter. Season it to your taste with salt, mace and nutmeg.
Have ready some skins, nicely cleaned as for sausages. Fill the skins with the mixture, and tie up the ends. Then simmer your puddings, but do not let them boil. Take them out, drain them, and put them away to get cold.
When you wish to cook them for immediate use prick them with a fork, wrap them in buttered paper, and broil them on a gridiron.
Similar puddings may be made of cold fowls.
BAKED PIGEONS, OR PIGEONS À LA CRAPAUDINE.
Split the pigeons down the back. Take out the livers, which you must mince with bacon and sweet-herbs, adding to them the livers of fowls or other birds, if you have them, and bacon in proportion. Or you may substitute sausage-meat. Add bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and the yolks of two eggs or more, with salt, pepper, mace and nutmeg to your taste. Mix all together, and stuff your pigeons with it, and then glaze them all over with beaten white of egg. Place them in a buttered pan, and set them in the oven. Bake them half an hour. Before you serve them up, squeeze some lemon-juice into the gravy.
BROILED PIGEONS.
Split your pigeons and flatten them. Make a seasoning of sweet oil, salt, pepper, chopped shalots, and chopped parsley. Rub this seasoning all over the pigeons. Then cover them with grated bread crumbs. Wrap each in a sheet of white paper, and broil them on a slow fire. Serve them up with a sauce made of minced onions, butter rolled in flour, lemon-juice or vinegar, and salt and pepper.
PIGEONS PEAR-FASHION. (Pigeons au Poire.)
First, bone your pigeons. To do this, take a sharp knife, and slipping it under the flesh carefully loosen it from the bone, and do not tear the skin. Begin at the upper part of the bird, just above the wings, scrape gradually down, and finish at the legs. Then take hold of the neck, and draw out the whole skeleton at once. Make a good force-meat or stuffing (as directed for baked pigeons), and fill them with it, making them each into the shape of a large pear. Fasten them with skewers. Glaze them all over with yolk of egg, and then roll them in grated bread-crumbs. Stick in the top of each, the lower end of the leg, to look like the stem of a pear. Lay them in a buttered dish (but not so close as to touch each other) and bake them. Make a good gravy, thickened with the yolk of an egg, and some butter rolled in flour.
PIGEONS WITH PEAS.
Take two or four pigeons (according to their size), and truss them with the feet inwards. Put them into a stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and two or three slices of cold ham, or bacon, and a little water. Let them stew gently till brown. Then add a quart of green peas, and a bunch of mint, with another piece of butter, and a little warm water or milk. Let them stew slowly, and when they are quite done, stir in some more butter. Serve up the pigeons with the peas under them.
ROASTED PARTRIDGES.
Lard the partridges, and put in the inside of each a laurel leaf, and an orange cut in pieces. If you omit the laurel leaf, do not peel the orange, but put in the pieces with the rind on them. These must be taken out before the partridges are sent to table. Be careful not to roast them too much.
PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGE.
Having trussed the partridges, put them into a stew-pan with a large piece of butter rolled in flour; a quarter of a pound of bacon or ham cut into dice; a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a little warm water. Put into another stew-pan a fine Savoy cabbage, with a pint of the dripping of beef or pork. Let it stew slowly till nearly done. Then take out the cabbage and drain it, and put it into the stew-pan to cook with the partridges for half an hour. Lay the cabbage under the partridges when you send them to table.
A PARTRIDGE PIE.
Take three pair of large partridges and truss them as you do fowls. Rub them all over with a mixture of pepper, salt, powdered mace and powdered nutmeg. Take a pound of fat bacon and two pounds of lean veal, and cut them into small pieces. Put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter. Add a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a few shalots or small onions, all minced fine. Stew them till the meat seems to be quite done, and then put it into a cullender to drain. Afterwards put the meat into a mortar, season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg and mace, and pound it to a smooth paste; moistening it at times with some of the liquor in which it was stewed.
Prepare a rich paste, and spread a sheet of it over the bottom of a large and deep buttered dish. Put in the partridges, side by side, pour in a little water, add a piece of butter, and cover them with the pounded meat. Lay on the top a few slices of cold ham. Roll out a thick piece of paste for the lid, and cover the pie with it; cutting the edges into square notches, and folding over the half of each notch. Ornament the lid with leaves and flowers made of paste. Bake it three hours, and see that the oven is not so hot as to scorch it. When done, glaze it all over with white of egg.
This pie will be greatly improved by the addition of some truffles. If you cannot procure truffles, mushrooms cut in pieces may be substituted.
ROASTED PHEASANTS.
Make a stuffing of fresh raw oysters, chopped, and seasoned with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace. Mix with it some sweet oil, some yolk of egg, and fill the pheasants with this stuffing. Cover the pheasants with thin slices of bacon or cold ham; wrap them in buttered sheets of white paper, and roast them. Serve them up with oyster sauce.
BROILED QUAILS.
Split the quails down the back, and flatten them. Put them into a stew-pan with sweet-oil, salt, pepper, and a leaf or two of laurel. Cover them with thin slices of bacon or ham, and let them stew slowly on hot coals. When nearly done, take them out, strew over them grated breadcrumbs, and broil them on a gridiron.
Put into the stew-pan a little warm water, and scrape down whatever adheres to the sides; skim it, and let it come to a boil. Pour this gravy into the dish in which you serve up the quails, and lay the bacon round it.
ROASTED PLOVERS.
Scald and pick your plovers, but do not draw them. Lard them, and lay slices of toasted bread in the dripping-pan to receive what falls from the birds while roasting. Serve them up with the toast under them.
Woodcocks and snipes are roasted in the same manner.
PART THE FOURTH
FISH.
STEWED SALMON.
Pour a half-pint of white wine into a stew-pan, with some sliced carrots, onions, and mushrooms; pepper, salt, and mace; and a bunch of chopped sweet-herbs. Lay in your piece of fresh salmon, and pour over it some more wine. Stew it slowly for an hour or more. When done, serve it up with the sauce that is under it, and also with some sauce Mayonnaise in a boat.
The sauce Mayonnaise is made as follows:— Put into a small tureen the yolks of two beaten eggs, a little salt and Cayenne pepper, and a very little vinegar. Stir and mix it well; then add (a drop at a time) two table-spoonfuls of sweet-oil, stirring all the while. When it is well mixed, stir in gradually some more vinegar. To stir and mix it thoroughly will require a quarter of an hour. It will then be very delicate.
You may color it green by adding a little juice of spinach, or some chopped parsley or tarragon at the first, when you put in the eggs.
ROASTED SALMON.
A large piece of fresh salmon is very fine roasted on a spit, first rubbing it with salt, and then basting it all the time with sweet-oil or butter.
For roasted salmon, make a sauce as follows:—Put into a sauce-pan a little parsley, a shalot or small onion, a few mushrooms, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, pepper, salt, and a gill or more of white wine. Let these ingredients boil for half an hour; then strain them through a sieve, and mix with the sauce a table-spoonful of olive-oil.
BROILED SALMON.
Cut several slices of fresh salmon; soak them an hour in a mixture of sweet-oil, chopped parsley, and shalots minced fine, with salt and pepper. Then take each slice with the seasoning on it, and wrap it in buttered paper. Broil the slices on a gridiron. When thoroughly done, take off the paper, and serve up the salmon with melted butter and capers.
Any other large fish may be dressed like salmon.
SALT COD-FISH.
Let it soak twenty-four hours in cold water, which must be changed several times, and every time you change it pour in a wine-glass of vinegar, which will greatly improve the fish. Boil the cod till thoroughly done; then cut the flesh into very small slips; mix it with parsley, butter, vinegar, Cayenne pepper, nutmeg, and mace; add to the mixture some boiled onions, mashed potatoes, and the yolks of two or three beaten eggs. Put the whole mixture into a deep dish, and make it up into the form of a thick round cake. Go all over it with a bunch of feathers, or a small brush, dipped in sweet-oil; and then grate bread crumbs all over it. Set it in the oven till brown. Serve it up, surrounded with triangular or three-cornered slices of toast, dipped in melted butter.
Halibut may be dressed in the same manner, putting salt in the water when you boil it, and also in the seasoning.
Fresh cod may be cooked in the same way.
BROILED FRESH MACKEREL.
Split your mackerel down the back; season it with pepper and salt; cover it all over with oil or butter, and let it lay for half an hour or more; then broil it, pouring on it whatever of the seasoning may be left in the dish.
Serve it up, with sauce in a boat. Let the sauce be of melted butter, with parsley, and a little lemon-juice, or vinegar.
Or you may broil the mackerel whole, having first seasoned it as above, and wrapped it in oiled paper.
BROILED FRESH SHAD.
Having split the shad in half, cover it all over with a seasoning of oil, pepper, salt, chopped onions, parsley, and laurel-leaf. Let it lie an hour or two in the seasoning. Then broil it, covered with the seasoning, and adding a piece of butter.
Or you may cook the shad whole. Make a stuffing of the above ingredients, with the addition of some grated bread; put the stuffing into the shad, and bake it, first pouring over it a glass of white wine.
Any large fresh fish may be baked in the same manner.
HASHED FISH.
Take any sort of cold fish, bone it, and then chop it with the remains of a cold omelet, and some mushrooms if you have them. Mix with it some chopped parsley, a little butter, a slice of bread soaked in milk, and the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. Mix all together, and season with pepper and salt. Stew it gently with a little water for half an hour.
LOBSTER PIE.
Having boiled your lobster, take out the meat from the shell, season it with salt, mustard, Cayenne pepper, and vinegar, and beat it well in a mortar. Then stir in a quarter of a pound of butter, the yolks of two beaten eggs, and two ounces or more of grated bread crumbs. Make some puff-paste, put in the mixture, and cover it with a lid of paste ornamented with leaves or flowers of the same. Bake it slowly.
OYSTER LOAVES.
Have ready some small loaves or rolls of bread. Cut a round piece out of the top of each, and scoop out the crumb or soft part. Take the liquor of your oysters, put into it the crumbs, with a little chopped celery, and a large piece of butter. As soon as it boils, pour the liquor over the oysters, and this will cook them sufficiently. Fill your loaves with the oysters, putting into each a tea-spoonful of cream. Lay on again the piece of crust that was cut out of the top of each loaf or roll, and set them in the oven for a few minutes.
PART THE FIFTH.
VEGETABLES.
STEWED LETTUCE.
Wash a fine lettuce, and tie it up with a string passed several times round it, to keep the leaves together. Put it in boiling water, with a little salt. When the lettuce has boiled, take it out and press it to squeeze out the water, but be careful not to break it.
Having mixed, in a stew-pan, a large spoonful of butter with a spoonful of flour, add half a pint of cream or rich milk; put in the lettuce, with a very little salt, half a nutmeg grated, and two lumps of sugar. Let it boil ten minutes. Take out the lettuce, stir the yolks of two beaten eggs into the sauce, and serve all up together.
STEWED SPINACH.
Take young spinach, and throw it into boiling water with some salt. When it has boiled, take it out, drain it, and lay it in cold water for a quarter of an hour. Then drain it and squeeze it. Cut it small, and put it into a stew-pan, with a large piece of butter. After it has stewed slowly for a quarter of an hour, add a spoonful of flour, with a little salt, sugar, and nutmeg. Moisten it with cream or milk, and let it simmer again over a slow fire for another quarter of an hour. Then serve it up, and lay on it slices of toasted bread dipped in melted butter.
STEWED CUCUMBERS.
Lay your cucumbers in cold water for half an hour; then pare them, and cut them into slips about as long as your little finger; take out the seeds; then boil the cucumbers a few minutes, with a little salt. Take them out, and drain them well.
Put into a stew-pan some butter rolled in flour, and a little cream. Stew your cucumbers in it for ten minutes. When you take them off, stir in the yolks of two beaten eggs; and if you choose, a tea-spoonful of vinegar.
STEWED BEETS.
Boil some beets. Then peel and cut them into slices. Stew them for a quarter of an hour with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some onion and parsley chopped fine, a little vinegar, salt and pepper, and a clove of garlic.
STEWED CARROTS.
Scrape and wash your carrots. Scald them in boiling water; then drain them, and cut them into long slips. Stew them in milk or cream, with a little salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. When done, take them out, stir into the sauce the yolks of one or two eggs, and a lump or two of loaf-sugar, and pour it over the carrots.
STEWED CABBAGE.
Having washed your cabbage, cut it in four, and throw it into boiling water with some salt. When it has boiled till quite tender, take it up, squeeze out the water, and put the cabbage to drain. Then lay it in a stew-pan with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, a spoonful of flour, and half a pint of cream. Stew it a quarter of an hour, and pour the sauce over it when you send it to table.
Cauliflowers may be stewed in the same manner.
STEWED PEAS.
Take two quarts of green peas; put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a bunch of parsley, and the heart of a fine lettuce cut in pieces, a bunch of mint, three or four lumps of sugar, some salt and pepper, and a very little water. Stir all together, set it on coals and let it stew gently for an hour or an hour and a half. Having taken out the parsley, add a piece of butter rolled in flour; and stir in the yolks of two eggs just before you send it to table.
You may, if you choose, put in the lettuce without cutting it in pieces; tie it up with the bunch of parsley and two onions, and withdraw the whole before you dish the peas. Serve up the lettuce in another dish.
STEWED BEANS.
Put into a stew-pan some parsley and some chives or little onions chopped fine, some mushrooms (if you have them) chopped also, and a large piece of butter rolled in flour. Add a glass of white wine and a little water. Stir all together, and then put in as many beans as will fill a quart measure when strung and cut small; having first soaked them a quarter of an hour in cold water. Let them stew gently on hot coals till quite tender. Just before you serve them up, stir in the yolks of two eggs. You may substitute for the wine a tumbler of cream, but it must be stirred in at the last.
STEWED ONIONS.
Boil some small onions with salt, and then drain them. Lay them in a stew-pan with a piece of butter, and sprinkle them with flour, pepper and salt. Pour on them some cream, and then turn every onion with a spoon. Stew them ten minutes, and serve them up.
ONIONS STEWED IN WINE.
Boil twenty or thirty onions a quarter of an hour with a bunch of sweet herbs, some salt, a few cloves, and a laurel leaf. Then take out the onions, and put them into a stew-pan with some salt, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a pint of red wine. Stew them another quarter of an hour, and serve them up garnished with pieces of toast dipped in the sauce.
STEWED MUSHROOMS.
Having peeled and washed your mushrooms, drain them, and stew them with butter, pepper, salt, and a little chopped parsley, adding a little flour and warm water. When they are done, stir into the sauce the yolks of two or three eggs, and some cream. Toast and butter a slice of bread. Lay it on the dish under the mushrooms, and pour the sauce over them.
Put in a small onion with the mushrooms, that you may know by its turning almost black, whether there is a poisonous one among them. If the onion turns black, throw away all the mushrooms.
STEWED POTATOES.
Boil eight or nine large potatoes with a little salt, and then peel and cut them in slices. Put into a stew-pan a large piece of butter, a spoonful of flour, some salt, and half a grated nutmeg. Add a half-pint of cream, and mix all together. When this sauce boils, put in your sliced potatoes, and let them stew a quarter of an hour.
STEWED POTATOES WITH TURNIPS.
Pare and boil an equal quantity of turnips and potatoes. When done, drain and mash them. Melt some butter in a stew-pan, and add to it a little mustard. Stew the mixed potatoes and turnips in it, with a small quantity of hot milk, for about ten minutes.
ASPARAGUS WITH CREAM.
Wash and boil four or five bundles of asparagus. Have ready a pint of cream, or a pint of milk, with the yolks of six eggs stirred into it. Take four large rolls of bread, and cut a round piece out of the top of each. Scoop out the crumb from the inside of the rolls, and put it into the cream with the heads of the asparagus, of which you must save out a sufficient number (with a small piece of the stalk left on each) to stick the rolls with. Make holes in the top-pieces of the rolls.
Fry the rolls in butter. Put the most of the asparagus heads into the cream mixed with the crumb of the rolls, and simmer it awhile over a slow fire. When the rolls are fried, fill their cavities with the mixture. Stick the tops with the remainder of the asparagus, and lay them on the rolls.
Asparagus may be simply boiled with salt, and served up on toasted bread dipped in oil, and eaten with oil sauce.
POTATOES STEWED WHOLE.
Boil two dozen small new potatoes, with some salt. Put into a stew-pan a piece of butter rolled in flour, half the peel of a lemon grated, half a nutmeg grated, some salt, two or three lumps of sugar, and three tea-spoonfuls of sweet oil. Lay the potatoes in this mixture, squeeze over them the juice of a lemon, and let them stew gently about ten minutes.
FRIED POTATOES.
Make a batter with the yolks of three eggs, a little salt, a table-spoonful of oil, a table-spoonful of brandy, and sufficient flour or grated bread to thicken it. Have ready some large cold potatoes cut in slices. Dip each slice in the batter, and fry them in butter.
FRIED CAULIFLOWER.
Wash a fine large cauliflower, and cut it into quarters. Having boiled some water with salt, throw the cauliflower into it, and boil it till you can nip it easily with your fingers. Take it out and drain it. Then put it into a pan with salt, pepper and vinegar, and let it lie half an hour, turning it frequently.
Make the following batter, which must be prepared half an hour or more before it is wanted, that it may have time to rise. Take three table-spoonfuls of flour, three beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of butter melted in a little warm water, a spoonful of sweet oil, and a spoonful of brandy. Stir all together; and if you find it too thin, add a little more flour; cover it, and let it set half an hour. Then beat to a stiff froth the whites of the eggs, and stir them hard into the batter. Dip your quarters of cauliflower into this mixture, and fry them of a fine light brown.
When the cauliflower is done, let it remain in the pan a quarter of an hour before you send it to table. Lay fried parsley round it.
Broccoli may be fried in the same manner.
FRIED CELERY.
Take ten or twelve fine stalks of celery. Cut them into pieces about six inches long, and lay them an hour in salt and water. Drain them, spread them on a dish, and sprinkle them with powdered sugar. Make a batter of eggs, milk, and grated bread; allowing four eggs to a pint of milk. Dip each piece of celery into the batter, and fry them in butter.
BROILED MUSHROOMS.71-*
Peel, wash, and drain your mushrooms, and then cut them in pieces. Make a square case of white paper, and butter it well. Fill it with the mushrooms mixed with butter, salt, and pepper. Broil them on the gridiron over a clear fire, and serve them up in the paper.
If you choose, you may mix with the mushrooms some chopped onion and sweet-herbs.
STUFFED CABBAGE. (Choux farcis.)
Take a large cabbage, with a hard full head; put it into boiling water with some salt, and let it boil from five to ten minutes. Then take it out and drain it. Cut off the stalk close to the bottom, so that the cabbage may stand upright on the dish, and then carefully take out the inside leaves or heart; leaving the outside leaves whole.
Chop fine what you have taken out of the inside, and chop also some cold ham and veal, or cold chicken. Likewise four eggs boiled hard. Mix together the chopped eggs, the ham and veal, the cabbage heart, and some grated bread, adding salt and pepper. Fill the cabbage with this stuffing, and tie tape round it to keep the outside leaves together. Then put it into a deep stew-pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, and an onion stuck full of cloves. Let it simmer over a slow fire for two hours or more.
When it is done, take off the tape, set the cabbage upright in a dish, and pour melted butter over it.
Lettuce may be done in the same manner.
STUFFED POTATOES.
Take eight very large potatoes, wash and pare them. Make a small slit or incision in each of them, and scoop out carefully with a knife as much of the inside as will leave all round a shell about the thickness of two cents. Then make a force-meat of the substance you have taken out of the inside, mixing it with two minced onions, a small piece of minced cold ham or pork, about two ounces of butter, and a little parsley; adding the yolks of two or three beaten eggs. Mix the stuffing thoroughly, by pounding it in a mortar.
Butter the inside of the potatoes, and fill them with this mixture. Then having buttered a large dish, lay your potatoes in it separately. Bake them half an hour, or till they are of a fine brown.
When you mash potatoes, moisten them with milk or cream, adding a little salt. Heap them up on the dish in the form of a pyramid. Smooth the sides of the pyramid with the back of a spoon, and brown it by holding over it a red-hot shovel.
STUFFED CUCUMBERS.
Cut off one end of each of the cucumbers, and scoop out all the seeds with a fork. Then pare them. Prepare a stuffing made of bread crumbs, cold meat minced, salt, pepper, and sweet-herbs. Fill your cucumbers with it, and fasten on with a skewer the pieces you have cut off from their ends. Sow up every one separately in a thin cloth. Put them into a pan with butter, flour, a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a little warm water. Let them stew very slowly for about two hours, and then take them out. Remove the cloths, and serve up the cucumbers with the sauce under them.
STUFFED TOMATAS.
Scoop out the inside of a dozen large tomatas, without spoiling their shape. Pass the inside through a sieve, and then mix it with grated bread, chopped sweet-herbs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Stew it ten minutes, with a laurel leaf, or two peach leaves. Remove the leaves, and stuff the tomatas with the mixture, tying a string round each to keep them in shape. Sprinkle them all over with rasped bread-crust. Set them in a buttered dish, and bake them in an oven. Take off the strings, and serve up the tomatas.
Egg-plants may be cooked in the same manner.
CAULIFLOWERS WITH CHEESE.
Having washed and boiled your cauliflowers in salt and water, drain them well. Make a white sauce in a small pan, with butter rolled in flour, and a little milk. Pour some of this sauce into the bottom of a dish that will bear the fire. Chop your cauliflower, and spread a layer of it on the sauce. Then cover it with a layer of rich cheese, grated and slightly sprinkled with pepper. Then spread on the remainder of the cauliflower, and then another layer of peppered cheese, and so on till your dish is nearly full. Pour over it the rest of the sauce. Prepare two or three handfuls of grated bread, mixed with a little of the grated cheese. Spread it all over the surface of the last layer of cauliflower, and smooth it with the back of a spoon. Allow a quarter of a pound of cheese to each cauliflower.
Put the dish in a slow oven about a quarter of an hour before you serve it up, and bake it till a brown crust forms on the outside. Clear off the butter from the edges of the dish, and send it to table hot.
Broccoli may be done in the same manner.
RAGOOED CABBAGE.
Wash a fine savoy cabbage, and boil it for half an hour in salt and water. Then take it out, drain it, and lay it for ten minutes in cold water. Afterwards squeeze and drain it well, and take out the stalk. Chop the cabbage slightly, and put it into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, and add two table-spoonfuls of flour. Season it with salt and pepper, and moisten it with a little water. Let it stew slowly for an hour, and then serve it up.
Cauliflowers or broccoli may be done in the same manner.
RAGOOED MUSHROOMS.
Take a pint of fresh mushrooms. When they are peeled and the stalks cut off, put the mushrooms into a stew-pan with two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, a sprig or two of parsley, a small onion, a few chives chopped fine, some salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Before it goes to table, stir in the yolks of two eggs.
If the onion has turned blue or black, throw the whole away, as it is evident that some poisonous ones are among the mushrooms.