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Dress design

Chapter 67: INDEX
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About This Book

The text surveys the evolution of Western costume from prehistoric garments through medieval and early modern periods into later eighteenth- and nineteenth-century fashions, combining historical description with practical guidance for artists and dressmakers. It examines changes in materials, cut, draping, ornamentation, and trimmings while arguing for the inseparability of design and workmanship. Numerous plates, sketches, and pattern diagrams reproduce historic examples and supply technical instructions for construction, alteration, and decorative detail. Occasional commentary proposes methods for conserving and reusing fine components and for raising everyday dress through careful selection of materials and better craftsmanship.

Pattern 52.

Pattern 53.

Pattern 54.

Pattern 56.

Pattern 57.

Pattern 61.

Pattern 63.

Pattern 65.

Pattern 66.

Pattern 67.

Pattern 68.

DETAILED LIST OF SCALED PATTERNS

Pattern 1, page 285:—

  • Piccadillo, 1580-1630.
  • Three caps, 16-17 century.
  • Cap of three pieces, 16-17 c.
  • Triangular cap, 16-17 c.
  • Long cap, 17 c.
  • Cap, late 17 c., early 18 c.

Pattern 2, page 286:—

  • 4 collars, 17 c.
  • Gorget of linen, 17 c.
  • 2 stocks, 17 and 18 c.
  • 3 male caps and 1 female, 17 and 18 c.

Pattern 3, page 287:—

  • Ruff, 17 c.
  • 4 extra linen sleeves, 17 and one 18 c.
  • 2 caps, female, 17 c.

Pattern 4, page 288:—

  • Front of linen jacket, 16 c.
  • Front of linen bodice, Charles I.

Pattern 5, page 289:—

  • Elizabethan jerkin.
  • 4 stomachers, 17 and 18 c.

Pattern 6, page 290:—

  • Set of tabs for male jerkin, 17 c.
  • Pattern type, sleeve and bodice front, 1570-1605.

Pattern 7, page 291:—

  • Circular cape, 17 c.
  • Cap, female, 1580-1630.

Pattern 8, page 292:—

  • Bodice, Fig. 1, Plate X, James I.

Pattern 9, page 293:—

  • 3 corsets and bodice of, Fig. 2, Plate V, 17 c.

Pattern 10, page 294:—

  • Jerkin of white quilted satin, 17 c.

Pattern 11, page 295:—

  • Breeches of same suit.

Pattern 12, page 296:—

  • Cape-coat, 17 c.

Pattern 13, page 297:—

  • Back of bodice, Plate VII, 17 c.
  • Shaped cap, male, 17 and 18 c.

Pattern 14, page 298:—

  • 2 collars, Charles II.

Pattern 15, page 299:—

  • Jacket, Fig. C, Plate IV, 17 c.

Pattern 16, page 300:—

  • 2 sleeve-cuffs, 18 c.
  • 2 embroidered pockets, 17 and 18 c.
  • Hanging sleeve, Fig. C, Plate II, 16-17 c.
  • Embroidered bodice fronts, 17-18 c.

Pattern 17, page 301:—

  • Quilted linen corsage, 1660-1715.
  • Herald's coat, Fig. A, Plate VII, 16-17 c.

Pattern 18, page 302:—

  • Sleeved waistcoat, 1690-1720.

Pattern 19, page 303:—

  • Sleeved waistcoat and vest, early 18 c.

Pattern 20, page 304:—

  • Breeches, 1660-1720.

Pattern 21, page 305:—

  • Breeches, 18 c.

Pattern 22, page 306:—

  • Breeches, 18 c.

Pattern 23, page 307:—

  • Coat, Fig. B, Plate XXVI, 19 c.

Pattern 24, page 308:—

  • Coat, Fig. B, Plate XIII, 18 c.
  • Corderoy trousers, from 1815.

Pattern 25, page 309:—

  • Coat, late 18 c., Fig. A, Plate XV.
  • Leather breeches, late 18-19 c.
  • Straw hat, 1816-30.

Pattern 26, page 310:—

  • Coat, 1784-94.

Pattern 27, page 311:—

  • Coat, 1830-45.

Pattern 28, page 312:—

  • Buff linen trousers, 1810-40.

Pattern 29, page 313:—

  • Morning coat, Fig. A, Plate XXVI, 19 c.

Pattern 30, page 314:—

  • Bodice, 1816-22.

Pattern 31, page 315:—

  • Bell-sleeved bodice, 1848-58.

Pattern 32, page 316:—

  • Bodice of linen dress, Fig. A, Plate XXII, about 1800.

Pattern 33, page 317:—

  • Bodice, 1860-70.
  • Bodice, 1850-60.
  • Bodice, 1816-25.

Pattern 34, page 318:—

  • Jacket bodice, Fig. A, Plate XXIV, about 1800.

Pattern 35, page 319:—

  • Bodice, similar type, Fig. A, Plate XXX, 1845-55.

Pattern 36, page 320:—

  • Sleeveless over jacket, early 18 c.
  • Spencer, 1827-37.

Pattern 37, page 321:—

  • Bodice, 1812-18.

Pattern 38, page 322:—

  • Corset pattern, 18 c.
  • Bodice of Fig. A, Plate XIV, 18 c.

Pattern 39, page 323:—

  • Bodice with type of pleated sack back, 1720-50.

Pattern 40, page 324:—

  • Bodice, Fig. C, Plate XXVIII, 19 c.
  • Bodice, Fig. A, Plate XVIII, 18 c.

Pattern 41, page 325:—

  • Zouave jacket, late 18 c.
  • Bodice, 1818-28.

Pattern 42, page 326:—

  • Silk jacket, Fig. B, Plate XIX, 18 c.

Pattern 43, page 327:—

  • Bodice, Fig. C, Plate XVIII, 18 c.

Pattern 44, page 328:—

  • Bodice, Fig. A, Plate XXX, 19 c.

Pattern 45, page 329:—

  • Lady's coat, Fig. C, Plate XXXIII.

Pattern 46, Page 330:—

  • Polonaise dress, 1835-45.

Pattern 47, page 331:—

  • Dress, 1805-18.
  • Mob cap, 1780-1800.
  • Cap with comb top, 1790-1800.

Pattern 48, page 332:—

  • Quilted petticoat, 18 c.

Pattern 49, page 333:—

  • Petticoat, Fig. B, Plate XVI, 18 c.

Pattern 50, page 334:—

  • Dress, Fig. B, Plate XVI.

Pattern 51, page 335:—

  • Dress, Fig. C, Plate XVI.

Pattern 52, page 336:—

  • White linen dress, 1795-1800.

Pattern 53, page 337:—

  • Striped cotton dress, 1805-15.

Pattern 54, page 338:—

  • Pattern of under robe, 1818-30.

Pattern 55, page 339:—

  • Dress, Fig. C, Plate XXV.

Pattern 56, page 340:—

  • Muslin dress, 1822-32.

Pattern 57, page 341:—

  • Satin dress, 1837-47.

Pattern 58, page 342:—

  • Dress, Fig. C, Plate XXIX.

Pattern 59, page 343:—

  • Dress, Fig. B, Plate XXVIII.

Pattern 60, page 344:—

  • Dress, Fig. C, Plate XXXII.

Pattern 61, page 345:—

  • Lady's coat, 1856-70.

Pattern 62, page 346:—

  • Silk dress, Fig. A, Plate XXXII, 1860-70.

Pattern 63, page 347:—

  • Reefed polonaise, 1860-70.

Pattern 64, page 348:—

  • Lady's jacket, Fig. C, Plate XIX, 18 c.

Pattern 65, page 349:—

  • Cape, 1840-50.

Pattern 66, page 350:—

  • Cape, 1860-75.
  • Cape, 1830-40.

Pattern 67, page 351:—

  • Upper sleeve and collar, 16 c.
  • Bodice with slashed sleeve, 1620-40.
  • Boy's stays, coat, and vest, 1700-60.

Pattern 68, page 352:—

  • Male robe, 1600-25.
  • Puritan hat, 1640-60.
  • Black velvet hat, 1600-20.

INDEX

  • Head-dress—
    • Prehistoric,
      • female, 40;
      • male, 42
    • to 10 c.,
      • female, 45;
      • male, 49
    • 10 to 15 c.,
      • female, 57;
      • male, 71
    • 15 c.,
      • female, 84;
      • male, 92
    • 16 c.,
      • Henry VIII,
      • Ed. VI and Mary,
      • Eliz.,
    • 17 c.,
      • James I,
      • Chas. I,
      • Commonwealth, 168.
      • Chas. II,
      • James II,
      • William and Mary,
    • 18 c.,
      • Anne,
      • George I,
      • George II,
      • George III,
      • George IV,
      • William IV,
      • Victoria,
  • Heraldic fashion, 66, 71, 109, 132
  • Hoop skirts—