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Embroidery and Tapestry Weaving

Chapter 59: PLASTER CASTS
By Grace Christie
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About This Book

A practical handbook that teaches both technique and design for embroidery and tapestry weaving, beginning with a concise historical perspective and an overview of essential tools and materials. It gives step-by-step instruction for a broad range of stitches and canvas work, and explains methods such as couching, laid and inlaid work, applique, raised work, quilting, darning, and drawn-thread techniques. Guidance on pattern-making, spacing, shading, colour, and the translation of natural forms into decorative motifs is supported by author drawings and photographic examples to aid beginners in developing sound workmanship and design judgment.

Plate X.—An Embroidered Sampler.
Notes.

Plate XI.—An example of Persian Embroidery.
Notes.

Plate XII.—A detail from an Embroidered Tablecloth. Designed and executed by Mrs. W. R. Lethaby.
Notes.

Plate XIII.—An Embroidered Altar Frontal, executed by Miss May Morris, designed by Mr. Philip Webb.
Notes.

Plate XIV.—Two pieces of Ancient Weaving taken from Tombs in Egypt.
Notes.

Plate XV.—An example of a Tapestry Field strewn with Flowers.
Notes.

Plate XVI.—A Tapestry Bag, woven in coloured silk and gold thread by the Author.
Notes.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] No. 184, 1898.

[2] No. 879, 1904.

[3] No. 517-522, 1896.

[4] For further information see "The Funeral Tent of an Egyptian Queen," by Villiers Stuart.

[5] No. 1564, 1902.

[6] For description of this method, see page 238.

[7] A piece belonging to Lord Falkland.

[8] Fig. 18 is a drawing from the border of the same example.

[9] No. 308, 1902.

[10] See Dr. Rock's "Textile Fabrics."

[11] In La Broderie du Onzième Siècle jusqu'à Nos Jours.

[12] No. 175, 1889.

[13] This cope is full of interest in every detail. See M. Louis de Farcy, La Broderie du Onzième Siècle jusqu'à Nos Jours. Plate II.

[14] This will be found described in detail in Chapter II. There is an interesting drawing of a neat little machine, similar to this, but worked by cogwheels, in L'Art du Brodeur, by Germain de St. Aubin (1770).

INDEX

  • Altar-cloth band (Plate IV.)
  • Altar frontal (Plate XIII.)
  • Appliances, 34
  • Appliances and materials for tapestry weaving, 315
  • Applied embroidery, 174
  • Applied work, 172
  •  
  • Background, the, 46
  • Bag, tapestry (Plate XVI.)
  • Beads, 50
  • Bobbins, 321
  • Braid work, 166
  • Broderie anglaise, 222
  • Bullions, 235, 256
  •  
  • Canvas work, 147
  • Coat-stave, 333
  • Collotypes, descriptive notes on, 356
  • Colour, 72
  • Comb, 322, 344
  • Cope at Steeple Aston (Plate II.), 357
  • Cope, detail from XIVth century English (Plate I.), 356
  • Cord, 40, 271
  • Cord-making appliance, 39, 273
  • Cotton, 49
  • Couching, 164
  • Couching gold, ancient method of, 238
  • Couching gold, usual method, 250
  • Coverlet, quilted Sicilian (Plate III.), 358
  • Crewel work, 103
  • Curtain, XVIIth century (Plate VIII.), 361
  • Curtain, XVIIth century wool-work (Plate VII.), 361
  • Cutwork, 213, 221
  •  
  • Darned netting, 210
  • Darning, 196
  • Darning, pattern, 197
  • Design, 30, 51
  • Design for tapestry, 311
  • Designing, pattern, 51
  • Directions, practical, 292
  • Drawn thread work, 213
  • Dressing the coat-stave, 333
  •  
  • Egyptian weaving (Plate XIV.), 364
  • Emblems, 270
  • Embroidery frame used as a loom, 323
  • Embroidery, washing, 297
  • Embroidery with gold and silver threads, 229
  •  
  • Figure work, 69
  • Fine drawing, 346
  • Flax threads, 49
  • Foliage, detail of (Plate VI.), 360
  • Frames, embroidery, 35
  • Frame work, 301
  • Fringes, 280
  •  
  • Garniture of work, the, 271
  • Gold and silver threads, embroidery with, 229
  • Gold thread embroidery, 229
  •  
  • Heraldry, 268
  •  
  • Inlaid work, 180
  • Interlocking stitch, 347
  •  
  • Knife, 43
  • Knots, 118, 286
  • Knotted cord, 277
  • Knotted thread, 119
  •  
  • Laid work, 168
  • Lettering, 259
  • Lettering, cutwork, XVIIth century (Plate IX.), 362
  • Linen, 47
  • Loom, 315
  •  
  • Madeira work, 222
  • Marking, 262
  • Materials, 44
  • Materials and appliances for tapestry weaving, 315
  • Materials for gold work, 233
  • Methods of work, 164
  • Monograms, 259
  •  
  • Needles, 35, 322
  •  
  • Objects to work, 31, 314
  • Open-work fillings, 201
  • Opus plumarium, 101
  • Orphrey, XVth century (Plate V.), 359
  •  
  • Past work, study of, 28, 53
  • Paste, embroidery, 295
  • Patch work, 183
  • Pattern darning, 197
  • Pattern designing, 51
  • Pattern tracing, 328
  • Patterns, transference of, 42, 292
  • Persian embroidery (Plate XI.), 363
  • Petit point pictures, 149
  • Picots, 143
  • Piercer, 43
  • Practical directions, 292
  • Precious stones, 50
  • Pricker, 42
  • Puckered work, cure of, 298
  • Purls, 256
  •  
  • Quilting, 189
  •  
  • Raised gold work, 253
  • Raised work, 192
  •  
  • Sampler, embroidered (Plate X.), 362
  • Samplers, 148
  • Satin, 48
  • Scissors, 35
  • Shading, 68, 348
  • Silk, 48, 327
  • Silk threads, 49
  • Silver and gold threads, embroidery with, 229
  • Spindle, 43
  • Stands, embroidery frame, 37
  • Stitches, 75
  • Stitch, back, 107
  • Stitch, basket, 131
  • Stitch, braid, 88
  • Stitch, bullion, 121
  • Stitch, buttonhole, 107
  • Stitch, cable chain, 90
  • Stitch, chain, 77
  • Stitch, chequered chain, 84
  • Stitch, Cretan, 134
  • Stitch, cross, 152
  • Stitch, double back stitch, 127
  • Stitch, feather stitch, 129
  • Stitch, fishbone, 131
  • Stitch, French knot, 120
  • Stitch, Gobelin, 154
  • Stitch, herring-bone, 126
  • Stitch, Holbein, 159
  • Stitch, insertion, various, 139
  • Stitch, interlocking, 347
  • Stitch, Irish, 155
  • Stitch, knot, 124
  • Stitch, knotted chain, 92
  • Stitch, long and short, 99
  • Stitch, open chain, 86
  • Stitch, overcast, 106
  • Stitch, plait, 156
  • Stitch, rococo, 162
  • Stitch, rope, 86
  • Stitch, Roumanian, 136
  • Stitch, satin, 95
  • Stitch, split, 94
  • Stitch, stem, 101
  • Stitch, stroke, 159
  • Stitch, tailor's buttonhole, 109
  • Stitch, tambour, 77
  • Stitch, tent, 153
  • Stitch, twisted chain, 85
  • Stitch, two-sided Italian, 156
  • Stitch, zigzag chain, 83
  •  
  • Tablecloth, embroidered (Plate XII.), 364
  • Tambour frame, 39
  • Tapestry bag (Plate XVI.), 365
  • Tapestry, example (Plate XV.), 366
  • Tapestry weaving, introduction to, 307
  • Tassels, 283
  • Tarnish of gold and silver threads, 237
  • Thimbles, 35
  • Threads, 49, 299, 327
  • Threads, gold and silver, 229
  • Tools, 34
  • Tools for tapestry weaving, 315
  • Tracing patterns, 42, 328
  • Tracing patterns on warp, 336
  • Transferring patterns, methods of, 292
  • Transferring patterns, requisites for, 42
  •  
  • Velvet, 48
  •  
  • Warp, 326
  • Warping the loom, 328
  • Washing embroidery, 297
  • Weaving, 339
  • Weaving, Egyptian (Plate XIV.), 364
  • Weaving, tapestry, 305
  • Work, garniture of, 271
  • Work, methods of, 164
  • Work, preparations for, 328
  • Work, protection and preservation of, 292
  • Wools, 49, 327

Printed by Ballantyne, Hanson & Co.
Edinburgh & London

EMBROIDERY MATERIALS

GEORGE KENNING & SON, Goldsmiths, Gold Lacemen, and Embroiderers, are the actual manufacturers of all materials that are best for Embroidery of any and every description.

The following are a few articles from the great variety they manufacture: Threads, Tambours, Braids, Laces, and Cords in Gold, Silver, Tinsel, and Aluminium; also Spangles, Sequins, Ornaments, and Beads of every possible variety.

Please insist on your Draper or Fancy Warehouseman supplying only materials manufactured by George Kenning & Son.

Manufactory: 1/4 LITTLE BRITAIN, E.C.

And at Liverpool, Glasgow, and Manchester.

RIBBON WEAVING FACTORY, COVENTRY

J. MAYGROVE & CO. Ltd.

MILLS—WAREHOUSE—
ST. ALBANS.51 ALDERSGATE STREET, LONDON, E.C.

Manufacturers of Silks for Weaving and Embroidery.

For REALLY RELIABLE BOILING and UNFADING DYES.

Maygrove's DUCHESSE FLOSS.

Maygrove's TWISTED EMBROIDERY.

Maygrove's FILOSELLE, &c.

UNEQUALLED FOR LUSTRE, PERMANENCE, AND ARTISTIC GRADUATIONS OF COLOUR.

READY FOR USE.

CHINA TRAM1000 Shades.
FORTUSSAH TRAM AND ORGANZINE500 Shades.
WEAVING.ORIENTAL FLOCHE500 Shades.
WORSTED YARNS—COTTON YARNS.

STOCKED READY FOR DYEING.

Organzines, Sewings, Flosses, Twists, and SPUN SILKS.
WORSTED Cords, Genappes, Mohairs, &c. &c.

PLASTER CASTS

LETTERING FOR LETTER CUTTERS BY A. E. R. GILL

Plaster Casts of the Stones shown on the Collotype Plates, numbers 13, 14, and 15, in the Portfolio, "Manuscript and Inscription Letters," by Edward Johnston, price 3s. 6d. net, are obtainable from the Publisher, or direct from Messrs. C. Smith & Sons, Moulders, 15 Kentish Town Road, London, N.W., at the following prices:—

Roman Capital Letters (Incised).}
"Lower-case" Italics, &c. (Incised).}12s. net per set of three.
"Raised" Letters, Capitals, &c.}

PACKED—DELIVERED FREE IN LONDON—CARRIAGE FORWARD FOR COUNTRY

These Casts being facsimiles of the actual stones make the best kind of models for Letter Cutters and Sculptors, and all who have to do with Inscriptions. Being small, they are easily handled.

The Portfolio, "Manuscript and Inscription Letters," by Edward Johnston, is intended as a working supplement to his handbook, "Writing and Illuminating, and Lettering," price 6s. 6d. net. It contains 16 plates in all, measuring 9-7/8 × 12-3/8 inches, with full descriptions and notes.

JOHN HOGG, Publisher, 13 Paternoster Row, London, E.C.

ROBERT S. RONALD

Decorator and Upholsterer

Loom Maker to the Royal School of Art, South Kensington

Table or Pedestal Looms to Order
Prices on Application

Office and Works—
ST. ANN'S HILL, WANDSWORTH,
LONDON, S.W.

THE ARTISTIC CRAFTS SERIES

BOOKBINDING AND THE CARE OF BOOKS. By DOUGLAS COCKERELL. Third Edition. 122 Drawings by NOEL ROOKE. 8 Pages Collotype Reproductions. 352 pp. 5s. net.

Extract from The Times.

"... A capital proof of the reasoned thoroughness in workmanship, which is the first article in the creed of those who ... are attempting to carry into practice the industrial teaching of Ruskin and William Morris."

SILVERWORK AND JEWELLERY. By H. WILSON. Second Edition. 280 Diagrams by the Author. 32 Pages of Collotype Reproductions. 500 pp. 6s. 6d. net.

Containing special chapters, fully illustrated, based on demonstrations and with notes by Professor Unno Bisei and Professor T. Kobayashi, of the Imperial Fine Art College at Tokyo, giving the traditional method of Casting, Damascening, Incrustation, Inlaying, Engraving, and Metal Colouring still practised in Japan, also on Niello, the Making of Boxes and Card Cases, with chapters on Egyptian and Oriental methods of work.

WOODCARVING: DESIGN AND WORKMANSHIP. By GEORGE JACK. 79 Drawings by the Author. 16 Pages of Collotype Reproductions. 320 pp. 5s. net.

Extract from The Builders' Journal.

"Undoubtedly the best guide to Woodcarving extant.... A practical work, written with clearness and literary power by a practical man ... of great artistic talent.... The illustrations are excellent."

STAINED GLASS WORK. By C. W. WHALL. 73 Diagrams by Two of His Apprentices. 16 Pages of Collotype Reproductions. 392 pp. 5s. net.

Extract from The Scotsman.

"It provides an exposition at once instructive and interesting of the workshop practice of the craft ... of Stained Glass, animated throughout by an encouraging and cheerful sense of the dignity and the elevating influence of such an occupation."

EMBROIDERY AND TAPESTRY WEAVING. By Mrs. A. H. CHRISTIE. 178 Diagrams and Illustrations by the Author. 16 Pages of Collotype Reproductions. 320 pp. 6s. net. (Third Edition.)

Extract from The Pall Mall Gazette.

"Mrs. Christie has performed her task to admiration, ... and her lucid explanations of various kinds of stitches ... should be of value to all workers at embroidery or tapestry weaving and to novices anxious to learn."

WRITING AND ILLUMINATING, AND LETTERING. By EDWARD JOHNSTON. 227 Illustrations and Diagrams by the Author and NOEL ROOKE. 8 Pages of Examples in Red and Black. 24 Pages of Collotype Reproductions. 512 pp. (Fifth Edition.)

Extract from The Athenæum.

"... This book belongs to that extremely rare class in which every line bears the impress of complete mastery of the subject. We congratulate Mr. Johnston on having produced a work at once original and complete."

HAND-LOOM WEAVING. By LUTHER HOOPER. 125 Drawings by the Author and NOEL ROOKE. Coloured and Collotype Reproductions. 368 pp. 6s. net.

Extract from The Morning Post.