Suliman Kashef had played some coarse Turkish jokes on him; he was offended for a moment, but he soon slid on his knees to him, in order that the latter might spit on the back and palm of his hands. He played the buffoon, because he had been once mad. Some time since, they hung beads round him, and put on him a shirt reaching to his stomach, and he had so raved about with joy, that he became at last sleepy, went into the cabin, and lay down upon Selim Capitan’s bed; but he was soon hunted out of that, and they made a bed for him under a cannon, to keep him safe from the further bantering of the crew. He is a commoner of nature, and so they all appear to me to be, but far from being savages,—and less barbarous, indeed, than many Europeans, who are clothed from head to foot. He was very much delighted with an Arabic song; I could see it by his face; now he comes nearer with more confidence, claps his hands, and shouts “Abàt,” or bravo! He wanted to learn it, and caught the tune rightly; but they laughed at him, and he became quiet again. Selim Capitan and I tried to imitate the idiom of his language; he thought he really understood something every now and then, and wanted even to correct us.
I saw, the day before yesterday, and previously, some tobacco plantations close by every tokul. I looked for this plant in vain to day at the two villages; perhaps it was already gathered. At nine o’clock, on the right, the village of Angort, or rather Awargot; which, as usual, was divided into a male (or herdsmen’s) and female village. Ten o’clock to the south; before the left shore an island,—course three miles and a half. At eleven o’clock S.S.W., we approach Arnaud’s vessel; he is on the point of furling sails, notwithstanding the favourable east wind. Selim Capitan habitually of a somewhat timorous nature, inquired of him whether he wishes to anchor here; without understanding his answer, he was also about to follow his example and halt, when I asked him whether he was commander or not. We sail on, therefore, and Arnaud is obliged, nolens volens, to follow. A little after midnight we cast anchor near the village of Aujan, and stood to the South.
7th January.—In the morning we landed on the left shore, where the great sheikh of the Bunduriàl nation presented himself as an old friend, being already known by the preceding expedition. He was of colossal figure, above six feet high, had a handsome aquiline nose, and a truly expressive physiognomy: about thirty years of age; naked, according to the custom of his ancestors. He was only distinguished from the others by wearing unusually large ivory rings on the upper part of the arm. His name is Biur. A red shirt and coral beads having been presented to him, he went away to procure meat, and to send messengers up the river to prepare a favourable reception for us. Behind this village of Aujan a large lake extends from N.N.W. to S.W., and a serpentine canal, some thirty feet in width, before the village, pours into it. Several people were moving on this long lake to catch fish: their implements were fish-baskets, of a whole, or half form, or mere wicker-baskets, which they dipped into the lake and quickly drew up again.
To judge from the ground inclining gently, as if in a flat dish, and from those trees, forming the arch from N.N.W. to S.W., being the forerunners of a thicker Haba, a very large lake must be filled here at high water. The greatest part of the water is afterwards let off, for the sake of fishing, through the before-named canal. An immeasurable quantity of water, generally, is collected in the low lands, according to all the appearances which I myself have found of such ponds in my short excursions into the neighbourhood. These always exercise a lasting effect on the lower height of the water of the White Stream, by their nearly simultaneous draining off, whilst they contribute mostly during the inundation to the sudden swelling of the White Stream by their connection with it. The tokuls of this village, which is called Auan or Auwan, are not badly built, but have low walls; the point of the roof also is not high. The lower wall, being of reeds, and plastered with Nile slime, is only three and a half or four feet high. The door is square here instead of the usual oval form; it is constructed of reeds, and before it are two stakes fixed in the ground, supporting a cross stake. Almost all the tokuls have a little porch before this door, which is covered by the roof being extended over it. The outer door is therefore lower than the inner one, and the inmates are compelled to crawl into the house. Generally, on the White Nile, it is necessary to stoop very much to enter the tokuls. The roof is indented according to the length of the straw bound up in hoops, and to the height of the roof itself; it has from five to eight separations. The point of the roof is covered, as I before remarked, by a gourd-shell, opening at the top and bottom, and forms a broad ring, in which the slender beams join.
Part of the people sat or stood there; only a few collected round our vessels. Many of them carried a long reed, instead of the spear, in their hands. They would not allow themselves to be measured, and continued to avoid me. I gave my servants three reeds of six, six and a half, and seven feet long, to stand near the natives, and by this means I ascertained their height. The average amounted to from six to seven Rhenish feet.[8] We ourselves were like pigmies among these giants. I might stretch myself to the utmost, but I could not come up to these men, though of the considerable height of five feet, two inches, four lines. The village numbers only twenty-eight to thirty tokuls, and lies along the shore to S.S.E. We sail away at eight o’clock, and in five minutes find a herdsmen’s village on our right side, and immediately afterwards another, near which the river winds to E., and we advance with libàhn. It is a large pastoral village, and appears to belong, with the preceding ones, to Aujan. The few tokuls of Aujan must serve the herdsmen, in the rainy season, as a place of refuge, for they lie tolerably high.
This morning, early, there were clouds in the sky, as is now generally the case; but still it is very warm, and we had, shortly before sunrise, 22° Reaumur. When I consider the endless labyrinths of the White Stream, and the eternal slackening of the winds, I fear that we shall never arrive at the sources of the White Nile. The stream is, as it were, without a border in the rainy season, and towing then is an impossibility, even if the south winds connected with it should not be violently against us. Yet I cannot resist the thought that it is not only possible to discover the sources, but also to scale the mountains lying to the south, of which all these tribes speak, and to pass over in some other stream territory to the Western Ocean. These thoughts occupy my mind when I sit at night before the cabin, and indulge in the reflection of such a bold undertaking, and one that would not be depreciated by the scientific world. My men are enraptured at such a proposal; but dare I confide in their courage? Yes, for if I did not, I should have turned them off long ago.
We remarked a group of trees at a long village situated on the left side of the river, containing sixty-five to seventy tokuls; and near it we go further east, the Haba before us, receding in S.S.W. I look at the village closer, and find that the very diminutive huts near the large tokuls, are not, as our men thought, for the children, but for the young cattle, and that this village has many straw or reed huts behind it for the pastoral men. Every thing is burnt down at our right hand, and only on the left is the border of the Nile still festooned by reeds and creepers; it is here not above three feet high. The enormous plain, in which is distinguished, from the mast, three lakes at the last point of the Haba to S.S.W., stood, therefore, entirely under water, although we perceive now numerous cattle and a large summer village in the centre. On the left also we see, from the mast, a lake and a village, about half an hour from the right shore. The large half-moon on the right has still green spots on every side, defying the fire with their pools. The land (if I may use this expression to distinguish it from the plain subject to the inundation, the secondary shores of which have become secure by the stream having fallen very much) is about three hours’ distant. The before-mentioned group of trees stands isolated behind the left shore; the latter is somewhat elevated; yet the old shore, said to approach before us again, recedes far into the above-named higher tract of land.
Ten o’clock. We have mastered the bend to S.W. by W., and sail now with north wind to S. A sand-bank forms the point of this bend. Yesterday afternoon, and previously, it occurred to me that here also the right side of the river, in an easterly direction, is nearly always marked by higher shores; but to-day this was very apparent, for the difference amounts to four feet. This is more evident because the reeds and grass are burnt away. Behind the above-mentioned group of trees, near which we perceive a number of overgrown ant-hills, I saw again the blue trees of the right shore, like the friendly appearance of old acquaintances. For a long time nothing has emerged on that side except from the elevated point of view on the mast. It depends upon the changeable humour of the river whether they come nearer to us or not. Between the dark blue margin of this wood we perceive a long glimmering water-tract. Some ten minutes’ later to S.E., at our right hand, a herdsmen’s village. Again, on the right, round to the S., up to W. In the interior of the country three villages, an hour long; but at a distance between the Haba, which appears to be very thick and woody, water is still visible, possibly in connection with the lake. This is at half-past ten o’clock; four miles. At eleven o’clock S.E.; on the right a pastoral village, on the left another. The north wind has veered, and we go, about twelve o’clock, libàhn, in E.S.E. The wind changes about two o’clock to our advantage: we sail from E.S.E. to S. and W.S.W.
At three o’clock we halt in S.E. by S. At half-past three o’clock we go S.S.E. A tokul city of one hundred and five dwellings is on the left, upon an island of two hours and a half long, commencing already when we were in S. On the left shore a lake about three hours long extends to the distant Haba, connected with the river by a narrow canal. Somewhat more behind we see two more lakes, and at a little distance on the right another city. On the left shore and the lake some tokuls, with flat arched roofs and round doors. E. and E. by S., towards S.E., is a village of thirty tokuls, some paces from the shore, by it a lake, and behind this the other lake, which I stated to be a water-tract, still continues.
We go quickly, with four miles’ course in S.W. by W., but also round a corner to E. We halt at half past five o’clock to N.N.E., where, on the right, there is a lake with a village. The before-named lake, of about three hours long, on the left shore, extends still far with the river, like a deserted bed of the stream, as we saw by the green strips, and the numbers of white and light coloured birds, that had encamped on its margin. If we consider somewhat more accurately, as I have already remarked, the main direction of these lakes, so far as the prospect from the vessel allows, we find that they always form chords, diameters, and tangents of the elliptical and circular windings of the present stream. On the right and left, a number of elephants are quite close to the shore, without being disturbed by us, and even the many light-brown antelopes remain quietly standing, and gaze at us. They are of the ariel species, of which also there are many in Taka; their flesh is very savoury.
We have done with sailing, and take refuge again in towing. The above-named intersections of the curves formed by the river are seen plainly on both sides. I had already thought that Suliman Kashef could not withstand the sight of the ariels. We stop on the right, at the shore just where the river winds from N.E. to N. The extreme edge of the shore is broken off precipitately to a height of five feet, as also on the right side of the river. The antelopes retreated as soon as the noise of the vessels reached the shore. The reeds are by no means to be trusted, because large beasts of prey are in the habit of taking up their position there, in order to rush upon the antelopes as their certain prize, when the deer go to water at sunset. A few soldiers, therefore, were sent forward for our protection.
On our return from the chase, during which not a shot was fired, we lost two bàltashi (carpenters or sappers) in the reeds, without our being able to recall them, though signal-shots were fired. They were Egyptians, steady men, and therefore we could not at all suppose that they had deserted. Notwithstanding this, the crew only looked for these men in the neighbourhood, shrugged their shoulders, and supposed that the assad or nimr (lion or tiger) had eaten them. The word nimr cannot, properly speaking, mean tiger here, for there are no tigers, as is well known, in Africa; but it is the general expression for panthers and leopards, as fagged for the lynx. At eight o’clock we sail on again to S.E., and make four miles. The river is here again about 400 paces broad. At nine o’clock, when we go S., we leave a small island at our left; the wind slackens in half an hour, but brings us S. by E. to a village, near which we cast anchor in the middle of the river.
8th January.—The vessels stand S.E., and this is the first time, for a considerable period, that one direction has held on so long. Long before sun-rise, the natives sing in honour of us their “Teabing.” The village only consists of some forty sleeping-places; each one holds several men, but the herds of cattle tethered there are exceeding numerous. The natives drive oxen near us, and are in such haste to bring them to the vessels that we can scarcely keep them off; they remain standing with the beasts, quite out of humour, point to them, and make supplicating gestures that we would condescend to receive the offerings. We have, however, become proud, for our Saturnian stomachs have had, at last, enough meat. The natives are of unusual size, and the troop standing above the pastoral village near the bee-hives, overtop their habitations by a foot.
The north-east wind is too faint; therefore again the cry is “Churr el libàhn.” From the mast:—back on the right, towards W., a large lake and a village; another at the side towards S.W., of half an hour in length, with a herdsman’s village. Behind this the Haba draws round in a bend. The wood is about one hour and a half distant, beyond the right side of the shore; but no lake is to be seen there, because there are not any angles cut off at this side. So likewise Fadl does not see a village, although yonder is the country of the Bohrs, who are said to dwell more inland; at all events, there must be water there. My Sale Mohammed, who, being my cook, wanted to procure me some roasted venison, has, against my will, gone too far from the shore, and not observed that we have changed the towing-path, and gone to the left shore. I am very angry with him, for one so easily gets in a passion in these countries. On calmer reflection, I see that I ought to have more care for his life, and that he who ventures his life for me does not deserve blows.
Eight o’clock, S.W. by S. We halt at nine o’clock, S.S.E. on the left shore, in order to wait for ivory. I sent Suliman Kashef’s sürtuk to the other side, to fetch Sale at this opportunity. The hygrometer 54°. A number of people are collecting around, and ready to give us all that they possess. The men, though only seven feet high, look like trees, in their rough and naked natural forms. Their tonsure is various; large ivory rings adorn the upper part of their arms. They would like to strip these off, but they sit too tightly, because they were placed on the arm before it was thoroughly formed. Now the flesh protrudes above and below the rings. A large man, appearing to be a little crased, or, perhaps, chief jester, wears an iron ring with flat bells on his left foot, and carries an unusually long spear, the shaft of which, being of a spiral form, is surrounded from the top to the bottom with narrow iron hoops. It must be interesting to understand his witticisms, for the others listened to him very attentively, and are extraordinarily delighted. He prefers his protecting spear to my beads; and it almost seems to me that these great children laugh at his philosophy as being stupidity.
The few spears we see here are of very different kinds; therefore, either imported or captured, in their contests, in the mutual hurling of spears. The greatest number, however, are pikes, tapering to a conical point. I only see the latter in the hands of the less skilful negroes. They seat themselves on the shore, sing, and beg for beads, pointing with their forefinger and thumb to the roundness of them. They have bad teeth, almost without exception; from this circumstance, perhaps, that they chew and smoke tobacco, partly to alleviate the eternal tooth-ache. If they did not complain of tooth-ache, yet they shewed us the entire want or decay of their teeth, when we gave them biscuit to masticate. Their chief or sheikh had, like the great sheikh of the Bunduriàls, an aquiline nose, and nobler features than the others: this I have remarked generally. The black colour alone induces us to suppose that they are of the negro race; though their features are generally not of that cast. Most Europeans, if they were painted as black, would be like them.
In observing the difference of these negroes among themselves, of whom the question can hardly be of a higher or lower grade of civilisation, and the features by that means distinctly impressed, we are involuntarily led to the idea that the families of these chiefs were either immigrating and conquering races, or the remains of the aborigines; and that, having diminished to solitary families, they have preserved among themselves their peculiar type, which is similar to that of the Caucasian race.
In a shooting excursion, I found it here also confirmed that the surface of the earth is lower behind the shores than the shore itself. This is especially seen by the vessels, which disappear even to half the mast at a little distance behind the shore. Nevertheless the ground was elevated again in the distance like the rim of a basin, whereon we remarked trees, evidently denoting an earlier shore. Water stood here and there, around which numerous marsh-birds had collected. I could not, however, get within shot of them, owing to the swampy nature of the soil.
Shortly before noon we continued our voyage with the rope, but the strong south-east wind worked so much against us that we advanced little or nothing. Besides, the crew do not seem to wish to run in perspiration and scalding heat, for to-day is Friday, and therefore the Turkish Sunday.
At twelve o’clock, a large herdsmen’s village on the right shore, with black giants, to whom the ant-hills serve as watch-towers, and where they look even taller, being contrasted with the horizon. This is the nation of the Bohrs. Here and there are seen men waiting on the shore, holding cattle by a rope, to sell them for beads.
The ox is said to be sacred amongst them. They may perhaps love and prize their cattle, to which they have but little else preferable, and may prefer the bull as the founder of the family, but that is all. After half an hour, where the river winds from S.E. to E. and N.E., is on the right a pastoral village. The nation of the Banduriàls stands here collected with a present of cows, but it was not accepted by us. From N.E. round a sand corner on the right, to S.S.W.
Here the meat-eaters, who will not be contented till they catch some disorder, cannot resist the temptation to receive some cattle. As in some parts of Belled Sudàn, copper wire is used for the decoration of spears, I had brought some with me rolled on a stick, and here and there cut off into rings. I exchanged such a ring for a red club, not made of ebony, but of some other heavy wood. The black stuck the ring immediately on his finger, half covering it; and Thibaut had no sooner remarked this wire ring, than he tried to procure it from the black by exchanging any number of beads for it, whilst my servants stood by and laughed not a little. He shewed it afterwards on his own finger, and thought that it was gold, and that we should now gain endless treasures for our beads, because the people, fortunately for us, did not know the value. I did not wish to disturb his innocent wishes, and was silent till the ring changed colour, when it afforded us a subject for laughter. There was but little to purchase from the people, because they, with few exceptions, brought long reed-stalks in their hands, instead of any weapons, as a sign of their friendly intentions, according to the orders of their king, Biur, who had done so at our request. A pretty young woman, with tolerably long hair, stood at a little distance, holding a spear in her hand.
At two o’clock we leave the sand-bank; immediately numberless birds settled there, and collected themselves for a banquet on the remains of the slaughtered beasts. We sailed S.S.W., a short tract, and then round the left to S.E.; here we saw, at half-past two o’clock, towards E., a large pastoral city, and people, and dogs,—the latter in unusually large numbers. From the mast:—on the right, to S.W., a lake; likewise one over the village to S.S.E.; and beside this village, five others up to the Haba: on the right shore, neither the one nor the other. The thermometer 29° at three o’clock. The above-named village of herdsmen, whose huts, like flat bee-hives, consist of reeds and straw, is followed by the huts of the women, built with a little more care, and also higher, having a square entrance, and on the top another thick irregular layer of reeds, so as to make the bent stalks of reeds heavier, and to keep off the rain.
The river goes from here E.N.E. For some days past, glass beads have been exchanged for ivory. I also, for the first time in my life, am now turning to mercantile speculations, and pleasing myself with the idea of the astonishment I shall cause to my brother. Five o’clock, E.N.E.; the north wind is good; five miles, whilst we only made three shortly after our setting out. At sun-set S.E. by E.; a smell of fire, and the smoke of a village, on the right side, came to meet us. We are soon convinced, to our horror, that the reed-straw near us is in full blaze, and it is fortunate that the river here does not make any curves, or we might be directly exposed to the flames. On the right is a large village, with peculiar tokuls, enveloped in black clouds of smoke, over which the sun dips as if into a dark sea of blood.
If we consider how such a reed conflagration extends with incredible swiftness in a violent wind, we shall see that the fire is not alone to be viewed as a purifying element of the marshy region, but also as the greatest means of destruction of the numerous forms of reptiles, and indescribable numbers of insects prevalent here. I have already convinced myself of this by the remains of consumed snakes. The river winds at the corner occupied by the long village, to S.W.
Two calves swam in the water, not being able to scramble up the precipitous shore again. The men had no sooner asked me whether they should take them, than I, as the momentary wokil of Feïzulla Capitan, gave them permission, in order to return them at a subsequent period when we came again to the natives; for there was so much meat on board, that it disgusted even part of the crew. The reïs tried with all his might to throw overboard the beasts just saved, because they were not to be slaughtered, and he wanted to have the hides; this, however, I very soon managed to prevent.
Seven o’clock.—The wind had slackened after sunrise, and the sailors now sang at the rope; women and cows hallooed and lowed in opposition. I had forgotten to observe the thermometer, whilst we were passing by the burning reeds; but now, after seven o’clock, when we have the fire behind us, it shews 28° Reaumur. By reason of the great danger, we try to get out of the reeds; the men at the rope are in a very difficult position when darkness sets in, for they wound their feet on the reed-stubble. On the left are two gohrs for catching fish, near another small lake. A little village lies on the top of the third island, with nine summer tokuls. On the right shore extends the long tokul village, and opposite to it twinkles a gohr, near a village. Behind us, the reeds burn in full blaze, to an immeasurable distance. From the mast:—from W.S.W. to N.W., a marsh, with isolated ponds, stretching far and wide; on the left, to S.E., a vast lake, the edge of which vanishes with the horizon. It is already too dark, and we halt, after eight o’clock, in the neighbourhood of a herdsmen’s village on the left shore, where the river winds from E.S.E. to E.
Suliman Kashef sends for me, because he is going to give a great fantasie, or feast to the sailors, as a reward for their strenuous labours in bringing us out of the reach of the fire.
9th January.—The thermometer, which yesterday evening remained at 28°, stood this morning, shortly before sunrise, at 16°. Our vessel dragged her anchor to-night, owing to a heavy squall of wind. Then arose again the usual noise, about which the captain troubled himself but little. I had felt a shock of the vessel, but did not think that it would be attended by any consequences; but as the hippopotami had already run against the vessels sometimes with such violence that they leaked, I paid some attention to what was going on. By way of precaution, the planks before the cabin were taken away, that we might be able to see when the water ascended into the lower hold. A gaffir (sentinel) had been placed there, but I had known for a long time how these night posts fulfilled their duty. I looked down, therefore, a short time afterwards into the hold, and saw that it was already full of water.
The sentry gaped prodigiously when I woke him up by a vigorous blow. The powder-room under our cabin stood open, so that the gaffir might observe the better; therefore I could not be too quick in ordering water to be poured on the fire, which was burning furiously on the hearth, and which some one had kept up from fancy,—perhaps the sentinel himself, to light his pipe. Then I awoke the rest of the crew, for Feïzulla Capitan lay like a log, because when the habùb set in, he had fortified his courage too much with the araki brewed by himself.
Immediately after sunrise, when the water was got out, we were towed to the left shore E., and immediately N.E. by E. From the mast:—on the left, to the N., lies a village near a small lake; on the right two villages in the plain before the Haba. The wood is an hour distant, but not of the same thickness as those of yesterday and the day before, on the left shore. We go S.S.W., where, on the left, is a village in a short bend in S.E. The whole horizon before us is covered with horned cattle shining from afar. My servants have purchased, on land, several skins of wild beasts, worn by the natives around their shoulders. Seven o’clock: seventeen to twenty genuine tokuls, and behind, a pastoral village, with the usual appearance. The men sing to our sailors, who are towing, but yet they remain on the large hills of ashes; the women sing “Abandejok,” jump, and recite besides God knows what other pretty things. Their village lies about eight feet high, and it does not seem that the high water reaches there, for we do not perceive any repairs to the lower clay walls of the tokuls. The surface of the earth behind the sand-shores is low ground. Half-past seven o’clock. From S.E. with a short bend io S.S.W.
A number of Bohrs are standing upon the point of land formed by a gohr to E.; they complain to us that the Elliàbs dwelling on the other side of the gohr have stolen their cows. We are no priests of justice, and continue our course. This gohr appears, therefore, to form the boundary between the Bohrs and Elliàbs. I was surprised that the former tribe did not dare to cross over the canal, which is about thirty paces broad, and probably connected with a great lake, as the choked-up dams prove, and claim their property manu forti. Their whole system of warfare may possibly consist only in such coups-de-main, from which, for the moment, eventual brawls may arise. It does not appear to me probable that a whole nation arms and takes the field against the other, for this would be a war of annihilation, which cannot take place, as the numerous population shews.
Eight o’clock. From S.E. to S.S.E. with sails; for the north wind freshens. Whilst I am writing this, the wind suddenly blows from S.E., and we are glad to halt at the left shore, where the sand is heaped up more than ten feet high. We go on by the rope. A storm comes from the south-east wind, but shews itself, however, as a mere blast of wind (habùb). At half-past eight o’clock we sail a short tract to S., but then again libàhn to S.E., on the right shore. Ten o’clock. An innumerable quantity of cows in the low ground on the right side of the shore, where there are more pools and a pastoral village. Again were oxen dragged to us.
We notice a large encampment of herdsmen, somewhat up the country, in the river behind the little pastoral village: I call it an encampment because there are no huts there, but sheds, as a protection against the sun, lying flat upon four stakes, the walls being partly protected by reeds. These straw huts, with flat roofs, which I had seen also besides in the pastoral villages, and which serve in the whole country of Sudàn, during the hot season of the year, for household labours, are called by the Arabs Rekùba. Even the open porches of the clay-houses are so called. Besides these, the reed-walls, protecting the very large fires of the encampment against the wind, stand far and wide around, and glistening herds of cows pasture there on all sides. The abundance of herds might give, indeed, some scale by which we could judge of the population, as I see from the rearing of the beasts that a certain number of hands are necessary. Still S.E., and behind the high reeds of the river another little pastoral village, near which we go to S. Eleven o’clock. On the right a tokul city at the point where we go S.W. Seventy to eighty houses stand along the shore, and we perceive, in a straight line, an arm of the Nile, separating a level island from a large pool. Immediately behind the city a pastoral village extends here and there, with that arm, towards the south.
There are many people on the shore, singing their “Abandejok:” the old women are particularly distinguished in this welcoming. We heard, horribile dictu, the clattering noise they make by striking their hanging breasts up and down; remaining with closed knees on one spot, they jumped or sprang up, swinging backwards and forwards their elbows and hands in a horizontal direction, and, bringing both hands before them, greeted us, or begged for something. The younger ones stood at a distance, and looked at the play,—kept back, indeed, more by the men than by their own bashfulness. The men swam over the arm of the river, in order to accompany us still further along the shore, or rather to catch a few beads. Opposite this hamlet are some tokuls, with a large pastoral village. We navigate S.S.W., and half past eleven o’clock S.E.
On the right a gohr discloses itself here, towards the south; two brooks flow now into its shores, close to one another; they join at high water like an arm of the river,—not deep, indeed, but yet as broad as the river we traverse. Opposite to its mouth is what seems a village, the huts in which appear to consist of sheaves of reeds joined together. On closer inspection, I see that it is not a village, but green reeds cut down and placed together to dry, to be used for building materials. We remark that the gohr goes subsequently to S.W., and see towards the west a pastoral village, connected with the tokul city. The extreme margin of the right shore is seven feet, and of the left three feet; the shores themselves ascend up to ten and twelve feet in height. On all sides, as far as the eye can reach, water tracts glisten in the low grounds.
Twelve o’clock. We halt till two o’clock, at an island of the left shore, and go then by the rope in a bend from the above S.E. direction, in half an hour’s time to N. by E. Here we work round a low sand-bank, which projects itself sharply into the river. Fadl told me from the mast, before we came to this corner:—Towards S.S.W., the gohr near the tokuls goes to S.W. Two large lakes are there, and a village, about an hour distant; the wood retreats two hours’ distance. To the left of the right shore also a large lake, half an hour distant, and the trees there indicate marsh land within three hours’ distance.
At half-past three o’clock we have fortunately navigated round from N.E. to S.E. On the right we notice, towards S.W., two large lakes, the first of which, being far off, shews only some tops of trees as its western shore. We have likewise, on the right shore, a considerable lake, at half an hour’s distance from us, at our side. The surface of the earth consists of humus mixed with sand, and frequently displays a reddish tinge, which makes us infer that there is iron-ore there. The natives sang yesterday evening, while they walked along by the side of our men, who were towing, in concert with them, repeating the eternal refrain, “Ja Mohammed;” to-day, also, I saw them at the village where we remarked the great gohr, assisting in towing, with songs and laughter. Although they are not able to converse with our wags, yet they immediately recognised the Abu Hashis, when on shore, as such, and joked with them; yet they were often frightened when the latter assumed a grim countenance and advanced towards them. The population appears to be very large, for it is not confined to the border of the river, but extends up the country, as far as the ground collects the water of the tropical rains; and the truth of this is verified, not only by ocular evidence, but also by the statements of the natives found on the border. But who numbers these dark children of the sun?
Five o’clock. S.W. by S. The river flows from hence on the left in a bend to W., and has a breadth of five hundred paces. At sunset, or six o’clock,—for I also set my watch, according to the Turkish and Arabic manner, at this hour,—we halt E. by S., under the corner where the river winds round to the right. There is here, on the right, a pool in distant sunken land, which must form, at the time of the inundation, a vast level lake. Two villages to S.S.W., one behind the other, and large herds of cattle in their neighbourhood. Up the country, on the left, the nearest village is only to be seen from the mast, and what we perceive to N.E. and N.N.E., is said to be a large drove of cows. I took a walk to this village: it lies on a gohr, and is called Aderègh. To judge from the foot-prints of elephants, it must all have been inundated. As fair winds had set in, we soon returned on board, and advanced at the rate of three miles an hour during two hours, to S. and S.W., and cast anchor in S.E., where the river becomes considerably broader.
CHAPTER XI.
NARROW ESCAPE FROM CROCODILES. — ILLNESS OF THE AUTHOR. — DESCRIPTION OF THE ELEPHANT-TREE. — CUSTOM OF MAKING BEDS ON ASHES VERY ANCIENT. — SULIMAN KASHEF SHOOTS A CROCODILE. — STRONG SMELL OF MUSK FROM THESE ANIMALS. — THE TRIBE OF THE ELLIÀBS. — WAR DANCES. — CHARGE AGAINST ARNAUD. — INJURY TO VESSELS BY HIPPOPOTAMI. — SULIMAN KASHEF’S CIRCASSIAN SLAVE. — CULTIVATED LAND. — THE FELATI. — APPEARANCE OF A MOUNTAIN. — TRIBE OF THE TSHISÈRRS. — STRATA OF THE SHORE. — RICINUS PLANTS. — FOUR LOWER INCISORS WANTING TO THE NATIVES ON THE SHORES OF THE WHITE NILE. — AGILITY AND STRENGTH OF THE NEGROES. — MORE MOUNTAINS APPEAR.
10th January.—Towed to S.E., and, looking back from the mast, two more villages are visible. On the right shore, a gohr of one hundred paces broad, projects inland towards N.E. A large village before us on the same side, surrounded with regular plantations of tobacco, cotton, creeping beans, and simsim; domestic fowls are also running about here. We halt soon afterwards at the right shore, where a village, considerable in length, extends from E. to E.S.E. along the shore. Two small tokul villages also on the left side. At half past eight o’clock we bear off again, and at nine we go S.S.E., having cultivated places at our side; and at ten o’clock towards S. On the right shore a gohr of thirty paces in breadth to N.E.; we also remark dome-palms again. Half past ten o’clock, S.E. by S. The forest, extending behind the doum-palms to within fifty and a hundred paces of the shore, appears also in the neighbourhood, and looks well covered and inviting to the chase. The broad river is so shallow here that we are obliged to stop in the centre of it, with our ships still heavily laden, whilst the men towing wade in the water; they often disappear altogether in the deep, when we come to these numerous shallows, and emerge again like ducks. There are many snakes in the water here; no one, however, was bitten by them. The crocodiles are again very frequently met with in the river, for they have deserted the pools and lakes.
11th January.—I have fortunately overcome a violent attack of illness which overtook me yesterday evening. Such a faintness seized me in my excursion yesterday, that I was obliged to sit down. I slept or lay in a swoon; I know not which. I awoke when it was already dark. A shot was fired near me; I tried to answer, but my gun flashed in the pan; for I had fired it off in a half unconscious state, to call for assistance. I dragged myself in the direction of the shot, and worked through the bushes to the shore, in order to walk more comfortably on the sand. At last I had the stream before me: on my left I saw the fires near the ships; but, by heavens! I was struck with terror, for there was the horrible sight of more than twenty crocodiles a few paces before me on the light sand. I had really commenced to count the beasts; but did not, however, remain long in bivio Herculis, for they began to move, scenting human flesh. I hastened back into the bushes, plunged into the holes hollowed out by water, which I had previously tried to avoid, and arrived without any accident close to the ships. I heard voices behind me, and recognised my servants, who were in search of me. They were mourning and reproaching themselves for having left me. Sale set up a loud howl, because he thought I was devoured by the crocodiles. They found me on the ground; they had also been pursued by the beasts. What a poor creature a sick man is! I hear now, for my consolation, that we had remained in the same place where we halted yesterday before noon, towards S.S.E., owing to the great exhaustion of the crew, and want of wood.
About eleven o’clock at night I began to rave, followed, from all external symptoms, by a kind of cholera morbus. This attack must have been dreadful, according to the description of Feïzulla Capitan, who bravely remained by my side, and shewed that he really has a heart, as I had seen already when he saved the Tokruri. Although exhausted, I now find myself tolerably well. We have a small reed-island at our side: the stream on the right and left is ornamented with a forest, assuming here quite a different character from the uniformity we have seen in the country of the Shilluks.
The earlier or spring mimosas were entirely obscured by other trees with dense foliage; the copsewood, also, has taken another form. The sun had not yet risen; but I could no longer contain myself, and therefore landed from the vessel. If I had, last night, given up the plan of travelling through Africa to the Atlantic Ocean, to-day I was seized with the old humour and desire when I saw this splendid woody region extending around me. Among the trees the shudder el fill (elephant-tree), or medengàn el fill, was distinguished above all the others. The beautiful clusters of flowers attain the length of from five to five feet and a half; they are similar to the yellow lily, but considerably larger, and somewhat curved on one side, like the nape-piece of a helmet. Forty or fifty of these lilies, shining magnificently, hang on one string; only half of them, however, are in flower, whilst the other half are budding. The fruit, similar in appearance to a thick grey-green cucumber, was already one foot and a half long, and half a foot thick. When cut open, it is very like the medengàn, called melinsanes in Greece, and cazzi greci in Trieste. The bark of the tree is light and smooth; the branches are a little twisted like those of the walnut-tree, to which it is akin in its digitate though darker leaves, and may perhaps surpass it in height. The elephant is said to be very fond of these medengàns, although they seem uneatable to all other creatures. Whether this be the Adansonia or monkey’s-bread-tree I venture not to decide. We shot down several of the fruits, being obliged to pierce through the upper part of the stalk, which is the thickness of a finger, with a bullet.
Eight o’clock.—We have felled wood, brought it on board, and continue our voyage by towing. The river soon forms an angle from S.S.E. to W.S.W. but it is only to go immediately again to S.S.E. As we remarked on the shore, the water now visibly falls. Selim Capitan and Arnaud cannot conceal their fear at having to surmount these obstacles, so as not to be devoured by the natives on our return voyage, which they would rather now commence. Such shallows are certainly disagreeable; but as they merely occupy certain tracts, it is only necessary, surely, to leave behind a portion of the freight on the other vessels, and to fetch them afterwards by degrees: this is evident, even to the commander. Sandbanks stretch from hence to the middle of the river. At nine o’clock to S.; on the left an island. The wood continues cheerfully on the right shore; on the left, however, it has disappeared. Half-past nine o’clock, S.S.W., and on the left a village.
The shores are strata of mixed humus, and the sand layer is quite clear. I remarked on the lower margin of a steep and broken shore a stratum of burnt reeds, and the intersection of a large hill of ashes, which proves clearly, like the tombs in the rocks of Silsili, in Egypt, that the stream here also sunk deeper formerly. The custom of making beds on the ashes is, therefore, very ancient, and the burning of the reeds is compelled by necessity. We halt near a village of about forty tokuls, and again wait for meat. There were only a few people to be seen, who stood, or squatted there quietly: at last they collected together, and formed a large column. Stretching up their hands in the air, holding a reed, or an ambak-tree, which is as light as a cork, though it looks like a fearful club, they made short quick marches up and down, and a sudden simultaneous facing about, in honour of us. The women ran behind this chorus, shouting and screaming as in Germany.
About eleven o’clock we set out to S.W. by S. A gohr cuts off an island equally narrow, overgrown with grass, at our left hand. At the head of the little island the river winds to S. On the right here is a pastoral village. At twelve o’clock, S.E. by E., and round the left by S.E. The north-east wind freshens a little, and we go without libàhn, if not quicker, yet more comfortably. A large semicircle is formed, and we go, at half-past twelve o’clock, from an easterly direction again to S.W. On the left shore, a troop of some twenty negroes squat, holding cows and calves for us by a cord. Beads are dear to them above everything. These blameless Ethiopians will not even receive gold and silver, the chimerical value of which they know not; and it is only stupidity that laughs at them in pity.
From the mast:—two pastoral villages behind the right shore; four more farther on, before the Haba, which forms a semicircle. The forest makes its appearance again before us, on both sides of the river. The latter separates into two arms, each having directly about two hundred paces in breadth; these form a little island, which we leave at our right side. The island is full of high sprouting plants and vegetables, between blooming shrubs. At one o’clock we arrive S.E. by E., and with E. to the point of the island. On the precipitous shores stand the different kinds of trees; among them the doum-palms, poison, and elephant-trees, are particularly distinguished, in picturesque confusion.
The left shore forms here at the corner, where the river winds S.W., a strip of sand, cutting into the river-bed, here only about one hundred and fifty paces broad, and on account of this we are obliged to sail close to the right shore. However, the river increased again immediately to S. W., up to three hundred paces in breadth. On the right also the Haba approaches, having but few trees, but before us it is well covered, and extends to the border of the stream itself. Five miserable tokuls stand under a large shady tree, which imparts a peculiar effect to the spot by its unusual masses of shade in this land of the sun. Some natives are sitting quietly under it, and seem to be fishermen. Two o’clock, S.S.E. We have the point of an island covered with reeds, in the middle of the river. Although I dread the mid-day sun after yesterday’s attack, which reminds me of a similar one in Taka, yet I venture upon deck, and see an island on the left. The arm embracing it has already shrunk to a large pool, and behind are the old or high shores, overlaid by sloping, grass-covered rubbish, as with a green mat. Where these shores formerly fell away steep into the water, they were twenty feet high, and were still raised in a similar angle towards the interior. The shores of the island are also about eight feet high, and I can easily calculate this, the shores being so close, for we have a plumb-line on board.
At three o’clock we advance close to the left shore, to let the men dine, for we have only laid aside the rope for a very short time, in consequence of the slack wind. The river becomes narrow at the corner, S.S.E., where it turns to the right. I also remark here again one of those gohrs, which, being from two to three feet high, conduct the high water, as canals, over the present water-mark, through the low country, because the river-bed is clearly too narrow—its shores being elevated here on both sides to two gradations—to carry away the whole mass of the White Stream, at the time of its inundation. We have also again the pleasing sight of the herds going to the river, over the ridge of sand, which must be considered at these high shores, as a road to the water. Eight white, well-fed calves, being the last, went away, to my astonishment, unmolested, our men not taking it into their heads to seize them. There is no leaving off at noon to dine, but one-half of the crew eats whilst the other tows the ship. About three o’clock we work away over the shallows, and at last the temptation cannot be resisted of taking some calves on board.
Four o’clock. We have the sand-banks behind us, to our good fortune, and we go S.S.W. The Haba close on the right shore, where we noticed six summer-houses and a gohr, eight feet above the water, is now separated from us about two hundred paces by a low country exposed to the inundations. The left old shore, with its generally scanty wood, has drawn close to the river itself, and is only ten to twelve feet high. Now, perhaps, the river will remain enclosed in the very narrow limits of the old shores, and not make these arbitrary serpentine windings, giving the result of a vast development of streams, but placing an incredible obstacle in the road to our pressing forward to the sources of the Nile themselves. We land at five o’clock, even before sun-set, on the left shore, for the men can go on no more, having laboured the whole day at the libàhn; the hoisted sails, therefore, are as good as useless, though they may have appeared very imposing to the natives.
A number of ash-grey people have collected near the village, and their chief is invested magnificently because he is to give ivory. From the elevated shore we see far in the low country, where the smoke appeared like a large lake. I was to suffer to-night for having exposed myself in the day, for a short time, to the heat of the sun. The sinking sun seemed to make my hair stand on end in a peculiar manner, and to set every single hair en rapport with its rays. I could scarcely return to the vessel.
12th January.—Happy those who have enjoyed a refreshing sleep to-night! I could not get any, and yet was so weary; fantastic forms plagued me the whole night; there is a restlessness in my nervous system, so that I get little comfort. Yet I brush up my strength, and write my journal; but I find it difficult, and cannot do much.
Before day-break, when some wind shewed itself, we set out, but again at sun-rise, the cry is “Libàhn.” S.S.E. At our left, the islands seen yesterday, the first of which is small, the second may be half an hour long. The wood stands on both sides upon the shore, which is twelve to fifteen feet high, in lively freshness and variety of colours. Mist is hovering about, and clouds prevent the sun from appearing.
Opposite to the large island is a gohr on the left shore, forty to fifty feet wide, apparently in connection with a lake behind the Haba. Half-past eight o’clock. S.W., but in a curve to S. I hear a shot before us, and they tell me that Suliman Kashef has killed, at one shot, a large crocodile on the sandy promontory of the right shore, so that it never moved from the spot after being struck. We tarry there till half-past nine o’clock, for Suliman Kashef presents the skin of the beast to Arnaud; but the latter scarcely retains the back-shield. As there is plenty of other meat, the men scorn to cut off its tail, and eat it according to the custom of the country. My servants, however, who knew that I had already tasted this sort of meat in Khartùm, as also in Taka, a snake, which a dervish had dressed himself, cut off a slice for me. Even had I not been ill, the smell of musk it exhaled, and which was not lost, though cooked with hay, was so repulsive to me, that they were obliged to throw it over board immediately. At first it appeared to me incredible that mariners should scent from afar the presence of a crocodile; but on my journey from Káhira to Sennaar, my own olfactories, when they offered me in Korusko a young one for sale, had become very sensitive to the odour of this beast.
At our entrance into the Blue Stream, I could smell the crocodiles, lying at a distance of six hundred paces off upon a sand-bank at the mouth of the White Stream, before I had seen them. The glands containing a secretion like musk, are situated in the hinder part, as in the civet-cats, (viverra civetta), domesticated in Bellet Sudàn, known here by the name of sabàt. These animals are kept in cages for the purpose of collecting the favourite perfume, called here musk or moschus.
Ten o’clock. S. by W. The river winds to the left; on the right an island with a village, separated by a narrow arm from the left side of the river. We sail with a good north-east wind, and make four miles. The poor negroes run as fast as they can to obtain a few beads, but in vain. On the left also an island.
Four o’clock. S.S.E. A short tract to S., and again to the left, S.E. We do not see the Haba of the left shore from the cabin; on the right it is divided from the river by a fore-shore. Soon afterwards, on the left shore, a village, with a solitary dhelleb-palm; the houses with a little pointed roof of straw, as in the tokuls; but the wall protruding in the centre, like a thick cask standing upright—another nation, therefore—that of the Elliàbs. At half-past eleven, again S.E.
15th January.—These are the days of trial; what avails good will, and a firm heart? I am still very weak, and cannot sit up. The negroes, since daybreak, have been singing their bold songs, and continue their war-dances, with quick or slow evolutions, in columns: their leaders are at their head, making threatening motions, wildly and freely, and inflaming the courage of their men by sudden broken chaunts, which the chorus then takes up. They clearly want to pay us respect by these manœuvres, for their rapid march is not directed against us; they do not appear to me to be the enemies we were informed of some days since, for they try with all their might to gain our friendship, and bring a number of cows to us.
I look at my journal, and thought I had been so ill since yesterday at noon that I was not able to continue it to the evening. To my most supreme astonishment, however, I hear from Feïzulla Capitan and my servants, that this yesterday dates from the 12th of January, and that they believed I was going to die. I remember very well, however, that I once saw Thibaut sitting on Feïzulla Capitan’s bed, and conjured him solemnly to send the doctor to bleed me. I sent out also my men to look, for one of them told me that Thibaut had not gone on board the doctor’s vessel, but on that of the Frenchmen. The doctor appeared, a perfectly black Shaigië, who had received the finishing stroke, as an accomplished alipta, under Clot Bey. Arnaud came immediately afterwards, to try on me his sleight of hand in phlebotomy. As I had got my brother to mark the point where to lance, so that I might do it myself in case of necessity, and had touched up the same with ink, every now and then, I allowed Arnaud more willingly to perform the operation, the black doctor having already worried me with his chattering. I trembled too much myself to undertake it with my own hand. I lay there at night, and a feeling came over me as if my whole body were pulsating, and I was myself moved up and down by the pulses. I did not dare to close my eyes, for fear of being tormented by those indescribable phantasies; I perceived only too well that Arnaud had not taken away sufficient blood. Willingly would I have had now a helping hand, but every one was asleep, and I could not call because I had lost my voice. I therefore undid the bandage, moved my arm vigorously about, and let the blood flow out of window; I felt I was much better, but was afraid of falling in a swoon and bleeding to death, when all at once a bright thought struck me: I took one of the large ivory rings lying near me, drew it over the hand, and so tight over the compress, which I had again put on, that they were obliged in the morning to cut it to pieces on my arm.
To my great consolation I heard that we had remained from twelve o’clock at noon in a south-easterly direction on the average, and at five o’clock had landed on a place where we remained till four o’clock yesterday evening, and then had come on as far as here, said to be only a short tract. Selim Capitan told me that we had only made on the 12th fifteen miles. The Frenchmen do not wish me to annoy myself about this gap in my diary, and promised me all possible éclaircissement from their own journals; but they found, however, subsequently, excuses to shuffle off, and I must therefore survey this tract more accurately on the return voyage. Suliman Kashef also had fallen sick in the very same hour I did, and was just as long delirious; on his account, therefore, the crew had kept quiet. I hear, to my astonishment, that Arnaud is accused of having tried to poison the Kashef and myself out of one and the same goblet, on the day before our simultaneous illness, because he himself had drank from another the last time we were with him. It was only with difficulty that I could persuade Suliman Kashef to divest himself of this unhappy idea; and it was by the following means I principally effected it:—I took precipitate powder from Arnaud, in water, before his face.
We go S.S.E., and after sun-rise S.E. On the left the head of an island discloses itself, if the gohr going to the N.E. is a Nile arm. Here also the people have collected, singing, and jumping backwards and forwards, in three files, as far as their strength will allow them, for they have not got a rag of clothes on their backs. A land promontory, jutting out from the right shore, brings us at last, after much labour, from S.E. to E. by N. A hippopotamus has just injured our doctor’s vessel so much that it would have sunk if it had not been aground on the sand. Yesterday evening also, when we were lying at anchor, a similar river-buffalo struck our large vessel with such force, that not being in the best condition, it made an uncomfortable motion, and roused immediately all our attention to examine the hold. We advance a little, and suddenly there is a cry that there is no water-course before us. I take this statement to be a knavish trick of the Reïs, whose duty it is to sound, and who pretend this in order to get back the sooner to their wives at Khartùm. I have expressed this opinion to Feïzulla Capitan, and begged of him to go to the two commanders.
I have good reason to fear that the invalid Suliman Kashef would rather be waited upon in his hàrim, at Kàrreri, than here by his Turks, although he has a young Circassian girl in the second cabin, who durst not leave the narrow space she is confined in, notwithstanding my intercession. The second time I was on board Suliman Kashef’s vessel, I was looking at his arrangements, just as the eunuch standing in the corner had gone out to fetch water; quite by accident, I opened the door of the second cabin, and saw there this pale, but beautiful girl, lying on the carpet, in a gauze chemise and trowsers. Suliman Kashef called out as if the devil possessed him, “Hàrim! Hàrim!” on which excusing myself, I naturally retreated, and he burst out into a loud laugh. Thus this poor creature sat in a cage, in which there was hardly room for her bed. The air entering but sparingly through the closed Venetian blinds, was obliged to suffice her day and night, for she was not even allowed to look out at the scenery.
There are several negroes on the right shore, who have a different language to that of the Elliàbs, and are called Tshièrrs. They sing and shout as much as they can, to induce us to receive their presents of cattle.
The shores in this region are not mixed with strata of sand in horizontal, but in undulatory layers, which may prove that a more violent influx into the reed-lakes took place here formerly, than in the present day. We navigate at four o’clock a short tract to E. and S.E., and immediately S.W. At sun-set, from S. to E. At the left a broad arm to N., perhaps having the main stream, for it shews here hardly any fall. We halt at the right shore, and take other natives from hence, for the purpose of acting as interpreters, instead of the former ones. From the mast is seen, on the left shore, two cities, and the great Haba, half an hour distant.
16th January.—I have passed a dreadful night, continually raving, and so far as I believe, I have not slept a minute. It was not till after sun-rise that we go with libàhn to E. by N.; an hour later S.E. Whilst I am counting seven villages on the left shore, along a dry gohr or Nile arm, I see on the right only one village. At half-past nine o’clock we sail S. by W. Ten o’clock.—The right shore is entirely covered with houses; thus the whole country presents, in a yet unseen extent, a cheerful cultivation of durra, simsim, tobacco, and lubiën (the phasels, or white beans, so frequently met with in the land of Sudàn). We see continually on the shores the ricinus and ushàr (asclepias procera), with luxuriant leaves, as well as the rigli, or purslane, which grows wild also in the gardens of Khartùm, and was our usual salad. At noon N.E., where a city on the right shore extended; then E., and subsequently S.E. Here I see, for the first time, the natives washing. Notwithstanding the proximity of the water, they make no regular custom of washing themselves, as is only too plainly seen by their bodies covered with ashes. They bring us large ivory tusks, as they did previously, and these were purchased in favour of government, for a few beads. Two o’clock.—On the right shore a large village, with a different sort of tokuls; and we go from N. by E. to S. It is unquestionable that there is an enormous population in this country of the Tshièrrs. The people have a friendly physiognomy, and the form of the face is more spherical than that of the other tribes.
17th January.—We halted yesterday evening close to a large city on the left shore, and remained there till eight o’clock this morning. This delay was caused by the natives constantly dragging down elephants’ tusks to us. The tokuls are like sheds, but barricaded round about with thick stakes, probably on account of the wild beasts. My European companions are very anxious about my health, and wish me not to write. They will lend a hand to me in every thing—very cunning of them! On the right and left villages. An island on the left shore, at least a gohr, enters into the land there; but where tarries the other gohr or Nile arm, that we saw four days ago? From E.S.E. to S.E. The north wind is better to-day than yesterday, when it set in, so desirable to me in my invalid state, and we make three miles. On the right shore a Haba, sometimes retreating a little, sometimes approaching. An innumerable crowd of negroes stood at the before-mentioned bend of the river, but we sail proudly by, without throwing out beads, and exciting the desire of such a mass of human beings for our glass riches. The people cultivate their fields, and are really better fed, but appear not to be equally particular about washing. The shores of the Nile are twelve to fifteen feet high, and there prevails a crumbling humus, easily rubbed to powder; always strongly, however, mixed with sand. These men, moreover, not only produce the fruits above alluded to, but also gàra and battigh (gourds and water-melons). Iron rings on the arms and feet seem to be regarded here with more respect than ivory rings. We leave two islands, of about two hours in length, at our side; they are also cultivated. As the country becomes more interesting, I feel myself happily a little better, and this may partly arise from the clearer air.
The natives say that the Felati, who wear clothing or rags (sharmuta), like our men, are only a few days’ journey from us to the west. I hear that these Felati, like the Tokruri, from Darfùr, being Muslims, make the pilgrimage to Mecca. It is certain that they do not take the road traversed by us, for nothing is known of them in Khartùm: it appears to me more likely that they join the pilgrim caravan of Burnu, and distribute themselves in the neighbourhood of the Nile, the better to beg their way through. Subsequently I became acquainted with a slave in Khartùm, who had come to the land of Sudàn, through Burnù. Felati means there dissolute roving men, such as these Tokruri, from the interior of Africa, generally are. It is thought that we shall meet with these Felati, and this is the more desired by me, because, as they partly speak Arabic, I could ask them questions myself, and should have no need of two or three interpreters, who translate in a careless manner one to the other.
Twelve o’clock. S.S.E. The stream is, as I predicted, more constant in its old limits, which have approached closer to us; we have generally a south-easterly direction. On the right also the wood is near, and I am curious to survey some of the beautiful green trees. The natives have brought us goats and sheep, but no cows; and do not seem to wish to give them. We have a small island on our left, and on the right the lower end of another, though we have not seen its commencement. Village connects itself to village, with broad low tokuls. We go from the south, where, on the left, through a simsim-field, separated from the river, stands a stately village, with reed palisadoes, to S.E. There ends the little island, and two other sandy ones immediately join on. Eight women are standing on the downs of the right shore before their village, and comfortably smoke their pipes. The isolated trees, with their beautiful branches and soft green foliage, have a very cheerful look. The simsim, cut-down, is regularly fixed together, like an arbour, in order to be dried. S.W., on the left, an island.
The shores are intersected with sandy strips. The larger tokul-roofs have an irregular form, with horns on the top, mistaken by the Turks for the crescent; they appear, however, to be the branches of the tree standing in the middle of the tokul. It is the gable of the house; and possibly we may look here for an adoration of animals bearing horns. On the right an island with beautiful foliage upon it; the channel is not broader than double the length of our vessel. To the left there is an island, and opposite it a mere deposit of an island, quite lively and verdant in the water; the river is again broader. On the right, and shortly afterwards on the left, two islands end, though we have not observed their lower part. Either they had not any water there, and were easily overlooked, or the stream branches so that we can scarcely form an idea of it. I look upon this portion of the White River, in regard to its uncommon mass of waters, with still greater respect, as a phenomenon difficult to be solved.
It is three o’clock. S. by W. Do I hear rightly?—they are speaking of Gebl—how that sound thrills to my heart! I call, but no one listens to me, for all are standing upon deck, and looking towards the mountain, which is said to be very large. In spite of the sun, and all remonstrances, I drag myself up on deck, and see the mountain to S.W., at a distance of about twenty hours. It seems to form an accumulation towards one point, and may surely be the forerunner of other mountains; therefore, after all, there are mountains of the moon. City crowds on city; and the Egyptians look out from the mast for herds of cattle, which are not, however, numerous. An innumerable population moves on the shores; to express their number our crew say, “Ketir, saie el tubàhn” (as many as flies); and we sail always, Allah Kerim, by the shore, which is quite black with people, who are standing as if benumbed with astonishment.
Four o’clock. From S.S.E. to S.S.W. The north-east wind good for four miles. It seems as if we were going to the chain of mountains, or, at least, coming nearer to it. Two days ago the natives whom we asked knew nothing of any mountain on the river. The river again becomes majestic at this bend, and gives us every favourable hope by its water-mark. On the right a small island, and another lies likewise planted in the middle of the river before us.
Five o’clock. S.W., and to S. An island on the left shore, where a gohr enters far into the land; then on the left a small island in our river, round which we proceed on the right, in order to come to the supposed gohr, which soon shews itself to be a main stream, flowing here S.E., and therefore not forming an island. Still there is an uncomfortable feeling at finding myself near the Equator in Central Africa, and being ill at the same time. Every man has his home, and this is frequently confined to such narrow limits that there is, properly speaking, only one favourite place in life. I was never a gourmand; but sauerkraut, now fresh from the tub—and I should be well on the spot.
At half-past five o’clock, from S.E. to S.S.W., and shortly afterwards S., and again S.S.W. I see strings of white beads, that may have been introduced by the Felati already mentioned; for the White Stream itself does not seem, up to this moment, to form any road of communication to the tribes who are ever at war with each other. From E.S.E. to S. by W., where we halt at sunset, and I go on shore. The Tshièrrs, possessing both shores here, are a very handsome race of men; tall, strongly built, and well fed. There is a good nature and courtesy in their behaviour, shewing, in itself, external cultivation. I can scarcely persuade myself that I am in the middle of Africa. The “stipes Æthiops,” as the Romans called it, always falls away the further we ascend the river. This type, indigenous particularly to the Dinkas, has not only entirely disappeared, but a nobler and more natural motion in the limbs has taken its place. Every one of these people wears a small wooden fife round his neck, having three tones. They say that the strings of glass beads they wear come from above (gèbeli, min fok), pointing up the river to the south. It almost seems as if there were a connection between these countries and the Atlantic Ocean. Although these people are armed with clubs, spears, bows, and poisoned arrows, yet there is something in the natural disposition of the human heart that prevents even our men from giving way to fear at a distance, but they take very good care not to offend the kind commoners of nature in any way.
18th January.—Another bad night. Even now, at Asser, I have not recovered. The Frenchmen, indeed, have paid me a visit, consoled me with empty words, but cast looks at one another, the meaning of which I so well understood that I assured them there was no danger; I should see my brother again, whom I just at this moment missed very much. We sail, on the whole, S.W., see six to seven islands, and approach nearer to the high mountain. This afternoon I saw, on the left, a little gohr, which discharges itself with a strong fall into the river: they tell me, from the mast, that a second one is lost again beyond the right shore. It appears, therefore, to be fed by our water-course, whilst the other is a subordinate arm of the Nile from above, or a tributary stream. Four o’clock. From N.N.W. to E. A large city at some distance from the left shore. An incredible number of people, who go here also quite naked, are dancing and singing on both shores: our course is really a constant triumphant march. The bears on the vessels will half kill themselves with laughing. We have likewise here that sharp piercing cry which we are so frequently compelled to hear in Lower Egypt, at marriages and other festivals of the kind. This “Kullelullullulu” is therefore, perhaps, of Ethiopian origin, and recalls involuntarily to our mind the descent of tribes from the Highlands. To the right of the city a small island follows, and a pretty wood extends over the margin of the river.
Half-past four o’clock. On the right and left an island; and notwithstanding the breadth of the river, we have still a good water-course, which has increased here in rapidity, a sure sign that we shall come at least to higher regions. The poison-tree is still abundant, and does not seem to be considered dangerous even by these people of free nature; we see it even standing close to their huts. It is not yet sun-set. There is singing, with dancing, and clapping of hands, even far into the water itself,—a truly black joy: the women with their sharp “kulle,” the men with their bass voices, the boys with their treble, and the barking of dogs between whiles, so that I can scarcely hold my pen, and know not where to fly to for peace. They drag calves behind them, and swim towards us, whereby the greatest part of the glass beads thrown to them fall into the water, and there is a monstrous noise and splashing in picking them up. I was sorry for the beautifully-formed young girls, who went away empty-handed in this crowding and wrestling of thousands. With the most amiable countenance they pointed to their necks, shewing that they had no beads there. They were all laughing and in good spirits, and shouted to us “Màdam!” said to be a title of honour.
19th January.—We navigate this morning with a gentle north-east wind to the south, and shortly afterwards have those grass-islands at our side that lay yesterday evening before us. Here the natives offer us every thing: weapons, certainly the dearest thing to them; arrows and bows, long spears, light javelins, and their ornaments, consisting mostly of iron rings! And all this for miserable Venetian conterie, which perhaps may serve for a long time as an article of commerce with the inhabitants of the interior of Africa. The sky lowers, and was yesterday also somewhat clouded. The river is here universally four hundred paces broad.
When I look on the soil, I find that it is either percolated with sand, and forms a perforated black mass, like the humus in Nubia, or that the layers, being still unchequered or unworked, are disposed in strata one over the other, sand over humus, and this over mixed earth, &c., but in thicker deposits than we are accustomed to see in other parts of the Nile. The undulating direction of these layers shews a stronger water-way, and a more vigorous forcing on and off of liquid soil. I am now not at all doubtful of a high land. Another shallow island joins on to the above-named green river meadow, over which the neighbouring wood peeps forth refreshingly, with a large village. The natives accompanying us are brought, by the partition of the shore, to a place from whence they cannot advance; they stand and stamp and dance, always upon one spot, some holding a spear, or bow and arrow, in their hands, some a long stick, and others without anything. They sing in alternate song, and raise at the same time one or both hands in the air, or stretch themselves towards us, and draw the arm back again.