Foods and Their Adulteration / Origin, Manufacture, and Composition of Food Products; Description of Common Adulterations, Food Standards, and National Food Laws and Regulations

—Coconut oil is rarely adulterated. About the only adulteration of any consequence is that of the admixture with palm-kernel oil, which has properties very much like that of coconut oil. These two oils are ordinarily about the same price and therefore there is no inducement to practice adulteration.

Palm Oil or Fat.

—This oil is obtained from the fleshy part of the fruit of the palm tree Elæis Guineensis Jacq. and Elæis melanococca Gaertn. Extensive groves of these trees are found in Africa and also in the Philippines. In Africa they grow particularly upon the western coast. There is a large number of varieties of palm trees that afford this fat, but the two mentioned are the principal ones. This fat becomes solid at about the temperature of the body. It has a somewhat higher melting point than butter, which becomes liquid at a temperature of from 34 to 36 degrees C. When once solid the fat may be heated to 41 or 42 degrees before it again becomes liquid. Palm oil has rather a pleasant taste and is regarded as an edible fat of high quality, and is largely used as such by Europeans and in Africa and other countries where the fat is produced. The fat also has a very pleasant odor which is said to resemble somewhat that of violets. This pleasant odor is quite persistent and remains even in the fatty acids after they have been converted into soap. Palm oil is manufactured in the crudest possible way by the natives, and immense quantities are lost for this reason. By reason of this crude method, which leaves the oil in contact with the putrescible matter, palm oil often comes into the market in a rancid state or at least with a high content of free fatty acid. Appreciable quantities of water are also found in the crude article.

Inasmuch as the natural color of palm oil is somewhat too deep for the taste of the ordinary consumer, ranging from yellow to a dirty red color, it is often bleached in the refining process before being sent into commerce. Ordinary exposure to the air tends to bleach this oil, due probably to the bleaching properties which the air sometimes possesses. Ozone is also employed as a bleaching agent. The bichromate process of bleaching palm oil is very commonly practiced. By this method the oil is freed from its principal impurities and treated with from one to three percent of potassium bichromate and with hydrochloric acid which decomposes the “chrome” liquor, and in the chemical process which attends this reaction decided bleaching effects are produced. The bleaching agents are withdrawn and the oil thoroughly washed with water until all traces of chromate and mineral acid are removed.

Adulterations.

—On account of its great cheapness and the fact that the admixture of other oils of lower melting point would detract from its value, palm oil has not been subjected to any extensive adulteration. The most common adulterations are the impurities which are left in the oil in the slovenly method of manufacture employed by the natives of Africa.

Constituents.

—As would be expected from the name, one of the chief constituents of palm oil is palmitin. If palm oil is saponified and the solid separated from the liquid fatty acid, the former is found to consist almost exclusively of palmitic acid. The specific gravity of palm oil is taken at a high temperature, as much as 50 degrees C. or above. The specific gravity at this temperature is about .893. Palm oil absorbs a little over one half its weight of iodin. The average iodin number may be regarded as varying from 53 to 55. Aside from the limited use of palm oil for human food it is used chiefly in the manufacture of soap and of candles. It is also used extensively in the tin plate industry to spread over the hot iron surface to preserve it from oxidation until it is dipped into the bath of melted tin.

NUTS.

The Acorn.

—Many varieties of acorns are used for human food. All of the nuts of the oak family are edible, but some of the larger and more common varieties contain such a quantity of tannin as to be rather bitter to the taste. The wild acorns were formerly utilized very extensively for the fattening of swine, producing an article of pork of high palatable value but with the production of a fat of a low melting point, unsuitable for the manufacture of lard for summer use. The term applied to the natural nuts eaten by swine for this purpose is “mast,” and formerly “mast-fed” pork was an extensive article of commerce. The disappearance of the oak and beech forests, however, have practically eliminated this variety of pork from the markets, at least to any extent which can be called commercial.

Composition of the Acorn.

—Edible portion, 64.4; refuse, 35.6.

The acorn resembles the chestnut in its composition, containing more carbohydrates than fat. It is therefore not an oily seed, but one of a farinaceous character.

Almonds.

—There are two species of almond trees, the Amygdalus communis, which is the common or sweet almond, and the Amygdalus amara, or the bitter almond which flourishes very extensively in the south of Europe. California has a climate which, with artificial irrigation, is favorable to the growth of the almond, and practically all that are produced in the United States for commercial purposes grow in that state. It is also cultivated extensively in France, Italy, and Spain, large supplies of the almonds of commerce coming from those localities. The almond is delicious when eaten in the green state, that is when the seed is fully formed but before the hull is hardened. It is rarely eaten in this condition in the United States, but forms a common article of diet upon the table of the Europeans in the early summer.

Composition of the Almond.—

In the United States the almond is eaten very extensively, often roasted and salted. In this condition it is found as a relish in many menus. The roasting improves to a certain extent the flavor of the nut, but the quantity of salt which is used is not always beneficial, inasmuch as an abundance of salt is eaten with other portions of the food. One of the most valued varieties is the Jordan almond, illustrated in the accompanying colored plate.

Beechnuts.

—The beech tree is a very common forest tree throughout the northern part of the United States. Formerly immense areas in southern Ohio and Indiana were covered almost exclusively by the beech tree (Fagus americana Sweet). The beechnut is triangular in shape, resembling buckwheat, and formerly was produced in immense quantities over the region mentioned above. In the early days it was the principal food for swine. The hogs which are fattened by eating the beechnut and acorn produce a species of pork of a peculiar and very highly prized flavor. The celebrated hams and bacons of the southern Appalachian ranges were produced from the variety of hogs known as razor-backs fattened on mast, namely, the chestnut, beechnut, and acorn. The beechnut is also one of the principal winter foods of the squirrel and other animals which store their food for winter use. In the cutting of the forests in the winter often large stores of beechnuts are found stored away by squirrels and birds. The beechnut is not very abundant upon the markets of the country, but is eaten very largely by those who live in the vicinity of beech woods.

Composition of the Beechnut.—

Brazil-nut (Bertholletia excelsa Humb. and Bonpl.).

—Large quantities of this nut are imported into the United States from Brazil and form an important article of food in many localities. This nut is not grown in the United States. It is also known as cream nut. The nut is triangular in shape and has a dark brown rough exterior. The kernel is highly flavored and quite oily. The tree is so sensitive to the cold that it will not grow successfully even in southern Florida, although many attempts have been made to introduce it into that locality.

Composition of the Brazil-nut.

—Edible portion, 50.4; refuse, 49.6.

Butternut (Juglans cinerea L.).

—The butternut is another variety of walnut which grows very extensively in the United States and has the same geographical distribution as the walnut, except that the butternut is not so common west of the Mississippi. The tree does not grow so large as the walnut tree, nor is its wood so highly valued for commercial purposes. While the walnut is a round nut the butternut is very much elongated, forming an oval-shaped nut which is very highly valued as a food. The coloring matter of the butternut is practically the same as that of the walnut. The butternut also has a fleshy outer covering not so thick as that of the walnut and which is removed in the same way in the harvesting.

Composition of the Dry Butternut.—

The Chestnut (Castanea dentata (Marsh.) Bork).

—The chestnut tree grows in great abundance wild in the United States, especially in the eastern portion on the foothills of the Alleghanies. In some localities it originally formed vast forests. The value of the timber and the fact that the chestnut grows only on good soil were prominent factors in the destruction of many of the original forests, especially those covering the arable lands. The trees still grow in great abundance, especially in the hilly regions.

In France the chestnut is very widely grown, and the nut is used very extensively as food by the poor classes. The nuts are often dried and ground to a flour which is mixed with water and baked in thin sheets, forming a very heavy but a sweet and nutritious cake. The chestnut is used in the preparation of many dishes, prized even by those in easy circumstances. In Italy the chestnut is also widely cultivated, and the nut is ground to form a kind of porridge known as polenta which is very extensively used as food. In the Apennines a cake made of chestnut flour and baked on hot stones is used under the name of necci. In Corea the chestnut is said to be a very extensive article of food, taking the place of the potato. It is eaten raw, boiled, roasted, or cooked with meats. The chestnut differs from the oily nuts in the smaller proportion of fat and the very much larger proportion of sugar and starch,—in fact, starch is almost missing in some of the oily nuts, the carbohydrates present in the very oily being chiefly sugars. In the chestnut the starch is more abundant than the sugar, and for this reason the chestnut meal is more like the meal of the ordinary cereal than that of the oily seeds. The chestnut, also, as it is gathered fresh contains a great deal more water than the ordinary fresh seeds, the quantity ranging from 40 to 50 percent.

The average composition of the fresh chestnut, edible portion, is represented by the following data:

The dried chestnuts, that is, those which have been kept for several months or which have been artificially dried, have a composition represented by the following data:

The average weight of the hull of the chestnut is 15.9 percent of the total weight of the fresh nut, and 23.4 percent of the average weight of the dried nut. The above data are confirmatory of the statement that the meal of the chestnut in its composition is very much like that of the oily cereals, for instance, of Indian corn meal or oats. It, however, contains more oil and less protein than the cereals referred to. It is readily seen from the above data that chestnut meal may not properly take the place of Indian corn as human food. The nut of the chestnut tree ripens at the time of frost.

The wild chestnut shrub, which springs up in great numbers where the original trees are cut away, is now extensively grafted with cultivated varieties. In Pennsylvania there are large orchards of the Paragon chestnut which have been grown in this manner.

Chinese Nut (Nephelium litchi Cambess.).

—This is not a true nut in the ordinary sense of the word, but is usually classed with nuts. It is a product of China and is imported into the United States for consumption by our Chinese population. In the fresh state in China it has the reputation of being one of the best fruit products of that country, having flesh of a white color and a flavor resembling that of high-grade grapes. 41.6 percent of the fresh nut is refuse matter. The edible portion has the following composition:

The above data show that in chemical composition the Chinese nut does not belong to the class of nuts at all. It is a fruit, its nutritive material being almost exclusively carbohydrates, while in the true nut the principal nutritive substances are the protein and the oil.

Coconut.

—The coconuts which are consumed in the United States are mostly imported. It is estimated that three hundred thousand coconut trees (Cocos nucifera L.) have been planted in Florida, and from 15 to 20 percent of them are already bearing. The common name of the tree is the coconut palm. The fruit of the coconut palm is used for many purposes. The immature nuts are often used medicinally, forming the base of a valuable ointment for external use. The jelly which lines the shell of the more mature nut furnishes a food product of great delicacy and high nutritive value. The milk of the coconut is itself highly esteemed as a delicious article of food. Grated coconut is one of the basic constituents of that familiar condimental substance, East Indian curry. Coconut oil is a very highly edible fat from which butter is made. The fat itself is valuable for cooking purposes. The composition of the coconut is shown in the following table:

The solid edible portion of the nut is highly oleaginous and contains also a considerable quantity of starch and sugar. Coconut milk is much poorer in nutrients than cow’s milk, containing over 92 percent of water, only .4 percent of protein, and only 1.5 percent of fat. The carbohydrates contained therein are chiefly sugars.

Filberts.

—The term filbert, according to some etymologists, is a corruption of the term “full beard,” and is so named on account of its having many long beards or husks. The filbert is the fruit of the cultivated hazel tree (Corylus avellana L.). The nut contains a kernel having a pleasant taste and is quite oily and nutritious. It is not cultivated to any extent in this country where we rely principally upon the wild hazel for the hazelnut. The composition of the filbert is shown in the following table (edible portion, 47.9; refuse, 52.1):

The filbert is produced in large quantities on the Asiatic shore of the Black Sea. The region of Trebizond is the most prolific source of the filbert.

Hazelnut.

—The hazelnut grows on a small tree or large shrub (Corylus avellana L.). The species which grows wild in the United States is known chiefly as Corylus america Walt. It is from this shrub that the common wild hazelnut is obtained. There is also another variety grown in this country, Corylus rostrata Ait. The hazelnut is a small, nutritious, and palatable nut of a brown color and grows over a very large area of the United States, especially in the northern part of the country. It is quite an article of commerce, but is not cultivated to any great extent. The cultivated variety, as has already been stated, is known as the filbert.

Composition of the Hazelnut.—

Hickory-nut.

—The hickory-nut is another one of the nuts which sometimes is classed with walnuts and grows very extensively wild throughout the United States, having the same geological distribution as the walnut and butternut. The hickory tree (Hicoria ovata (Mill.) Britton) produces a nut of highest quality. On account of the character of the bark, which becomes detached and often widely separated from the trunk, it is known as the shagbark or shellbark hickory.

Another variety of the hickory tree is known as the pignut (Carya glabra). The nut produced by this tree is much less prized than the other hickories, often containing a sufficient amount of tannin to make it distinctly bitter. The wood of the hickory is very tough and elastic and is used extensively in the manufacture of spokes for wagon-wheels, axe-handles, etc. The young hickory trees grow thickly together and have a slender reed-like growth. They are used extensively in the manufacture of hoop-poles. The hickory has suffered from the advance of the farmer much in the same manner as the walnut and other valuable timber trees. The original trees have almost entirely disappeared. The young trees grow vigorously and in a few years will bear nuts, and in some localities the care and cultivation of the wild tree has been established for the purpose of securing new forests of nut-bearing trees. The hickory-nut is even more highly prized for eating purposes than the butternut and walnut, but should be eaten under the same conditions, namely, before the passing of the first winter after their production. They, also, on account of their high content of oil, tend to become rancid when they are kept through the warm summer.

Composition of the Dry Hickory-nut.

—Edible portion, 37.8; refuse, 62.2.

Peanuts.

—The peanut is a widely cultivated plant. It grows extensively in the United States, and is especially regarded as a crop of high value in North Carolina and Virginia. Very large quantities of peanuts are grown in Senegal, in Algiers, in Egypt, and in many other localities.

The pod containing the seed grows underground, but is not a part of the roots, properly so-called. The pods are attached by slender stems to the stalk of the peanut. The pod of the peanut matures underground, and it may, therefore, be regarded as the seed of the plant, entering and maturing underground. The seeds are immediately covered by a soft envelope and then by several similar coverings. For edible purposes they are much improved by roasting, which gives them an aromatic, nutty flavor which is much admired. A striking illustration of the peanut is shown in the accompanying colored plate.

Peanuts are used as food both directly, as after roasting, and indirectly, by the expression of oil, which after proper refining is considered of high value for edible purposes. The oil of the peanut forms an edible oil of rich flavor, pleasant taste, and high nutritive value. It is used, either alone or mixed with other edible oils, notably with olive oil for table purposes and for the making of salad dressing. The residue of the pressings for peanut oil are highly valued as a cattle food, containing large quantities of nitrogenous nutriment, and also as a manure.

The composition of the peanut varies greatly in different localities. Its chief value as a food material lies in the high percentage of protein it contains and the high percentage of fat. The composition of the typical hulled peanut is shown in the following table:

Only the blossoms which form on the lower part of the stalk produce the fruit, since it is necessary that the long stem should strike the earth and the young fruit penetrate to the depth of from five to six centimeters in order that the fruit may mature. This method of penetrating the earth is shown very well in the colored figure already mentioned.

The original home of the peanut is not definitely known, but is supposed to be Africa. It was first described as occurring on the American continent by Ferdinand de Oviedo in San Domingo in the beginning of the 16th century. It is now very generally distributed in all the tropical countries in South America, Asia, and Africa, and, as before described, grows very well as far north as the northern boundary of North Carolina and in southern Virginia. Peanuts are used for food in all the countries mentioned with previous preparation and roasting.

The above data show that the peanut is a food product extremely rich in oil and protein and comparatively poor in carbohydrates. For dietetic purposes it should be eaten with some highly amylaceous substance, such as potato, rice, or tapioca.

The value of the peanut for food purposes is not fully realized in this country, where it is eaten rather as a relish and as an incident to the circus or the picnic. In such cases they are usually consumed in too large quantities and by unbalancing the ration may produce unpleasant effects from which an unreasonable prejudice against this valuable food product might arise.

Peanut Butter.

—An oily preparation of the peanut or the oil therefrom deprived of a part of its stearin is known as peanut butter and is used as a substitute for ordinary butter. What has been said of the nutritive value of the oil of the peanut applies also to this product. The butter has the peculiar flavor of the peanut which is not agreeable to all persons, though, perhaps, this fact does not materially interfere with the nutritive value of the product. The nuts are also powdered more or less finely and mixed with other food products. Peanuts which grow in northern Senegambia are regarded very highly for the manufacture of fine salad oil, and peanut oil is used extensively for this purpose.

Peanut Butter and Peanolia.

—Peanut butter and peanolia are used to a considerable extent in the United States as food products. They are prepared from peanuts, properly roasted, ground to a fine powder, and mixed with an appropriate quantity of salt. The analyses of the samples of these products, made in the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station, show the following composition:

The above analyses show that the preparations are produced from the roasted peanuts, which process reduces the water to about 2 percent. The ground, roasted product is mixed with about 4 percent of common salt. The other constituents are the same as those of the peanuts from which the preparations were made. Of the carbohydrate content of the peanut about 4 percent has been found to be pentosans.

Where Peanuts are Grown.

—Virginia is one of the most important of the peanut-growing states, especially in its southeastern portion. The Commissioner of Agriculture of Virginia reports that about one hundred thousand acres are planted annually in the state of Virginia, producing over four million bushels. Fifty bushels per acre is considered a good average yield. An important point in the production of good peanuts is the selection of the seeds. The most vigorous and well formed kernels are to be selected for planting, and especially those that are produced by plants of identical size and shape. By a selection of this kind the quality of the crop can be greatly improved.

One of the peculiarities of the peanut is that it is an underground legume. All other leguminous fruits mature above the soil. Its underground habitat is the reason for its botanical name, hypogæa. If the stem carrying the small, yellow, butterfly-shaped flowers and which springs from the axis of the branch above the ground fails to reach the soil no fruit is formed. If the soil is properly cultivated the germ may penetrate of its own accord. However, art assists nature in this matter and covers up the pods so as to give them a better start. The peanut, like some other leguminous crops, develops nodules upon its roots in which the bacteria that assimilate free nitrogen live in symbiotic union with the plant itself.

Pecan-nut (Hicoria pecan (Marsh.) Britton; Carya olivæformis Nuttall).

—The pecan is a nut which is very much valued and grows, with a most excellent flavor, in the southern part of the United States. Texas, Louisiana, southern Alabama, Mississippi, Georgia, and Florida are the principal regions where the pecan grows, although it is cultivated in some instances much further north.

The pecan belongs to the same family as the hickory-nut and is indigenous to the United States. It grows wild over a large area, extending from southern Illinois and Indiana to the Gulf. It often forms very large trees in the forests. There are several species of Hicoria. The fruit of the pecan is especially valued on account of the thinness of the shell and its extremely pleasant and aromatic flavor. As is the case with most nuts, it is composed chiefly of oil and proteids, the sugar and starch being in minute proportions. The composition of the fruit of the pecan, when divested of its hard shell, is given in the following table:

For marketing purposes the pecans are now largely grown in orchards, as the supply of the wild nut is uncertain, and its texture and flavor are not so fine as the cultivated variety. The cultivated variety may also be grafted upon the wild tree with good effects. The tree begins to bear at four or five years of age. A comparative appearance of the wild and cultivated nut is shown in the accompanying Fig. 59. The tree, when full grown, is handsome in appearance, and is valued as a shade tree as well as a fruit producer. The full grown tree is shown in the accompanying Figs. 58 and 60.

Pine-nuts.

—In many portions of the western part of our country pine-nuts are consumed largely as food. There are several species of pines yielding edible nuts on the Pacific coast of the United States and as far east as Colorado and New Mexico. These nuts are articles of considerable importance in the commerce of many of the cities of California. The principal specimens of pine which yield edible nuts are Pinus monophylla Torr. and Frem., Pinus edulis Engelm., Pinus sabiniana Dougl. The refuse is usually less than 50 percent of the total weight of the nut.

Composition of the Edible Portion.—

Pistachio.

—The nut of the pistachio (Pistachia vera) is used very largely for flavoring purposes and also for food. The tree is a native of Syria but has been cultivated in southern Europe for many years. The nut produced in America, though somewhat larger than the native Syrian fruit, has not half so high a palatable value. The pistachio is grown to some extent in the southern part of the United States and also in California. The kernel of the fruit is green in color and has a flavor which in some respects is reminiscent of almonds. It is used chiefly in this country in the manufacture of confectionery and ice creams.

Composition of the Pistachio.—

Walnuts (Juglans nigra L.).

—The American walnut grows wild over a very large portion of the country, especially the middle section west of Maryland to the Mississippi river. The walnut tree is especially abundant along the Ohio river, where it forms in the early summer a dense foliage. The trees often attain a very great size, reaching a diameter as great as five feet.

The walnut trees grow only on rich soil, hence, unless the country was very hilly and unsuitable for cultivation, the walnut forests were the first to fall before the axe of the pioneer. Later the demand for walnut lumber completed the devastation of the walnut forests, until now very often in the regions where fifty years ago the trees were extremely abundant a large walnut tree is rarely seen. The walnut lumber has peculiar lasting powers, and on account of its natural color and grain is of the highest value for building and ornamental purposes. The early farmers in the Ohio valley made their rail fences out of walnut trees. The wild nut grows in a dense kernel and is covered with a thick pericarp which is green even at the time when the fruit is ripe. After a frost when the fruit naturally falls from the trees the outer covering disintegrates. When the nuts are gathered by boys the outer covering is usually beaten off with clubs. It contains a coloring matter of a brown or brownish-black tint which the early housewives used for dyeing homespun cloth. The bark of the tree also contains to a greater or less extent the same coloring matter. The kernel of the walnut, that is, the edible portion, is extremely rich in oil and protein and has a very pleasant taste. Like other nuts the walnut is best during its first winter, since on longer keeping the oil tends to become rancid and the fruit unpalatable.

White Walnut (Juglans regia L.).

—The white walnut, commonly known as the English walnut, is grown very extensively in France. All the departments of south central and southeastern France grow these walnuts as a valued crop. The best walnut orchards are at an altitude of from 600 to 900 feet. Only the outer or exposed limbs produce perfect nuts. In planting the most important precaution is to give the trees plenty of room, 15 yards is about the usual distance at which they are planted. The trees are cultivated and fertilized with manure and commercial fertilizers every two or three years. A bearing orchard of these white walnuts in France is worth from four to five hundred dollars per acre and may yield a revenue of from seventy-five to one hundred dollars a year per acre. The nuts ripen from the middle of September to the end of October. These nuts are used largely in America as a food, for which purpose the kernels are carefully extracted in halves, commonly known as “walnut halves.” In France an excellent table oil is expressed from the dry nut which for many culinary purposes is valued as highly as olive oil. After extraction the oil cake is used for stock food. The white walnut is supposed to have been originally introduced from Persia, though it is commonly known as the English walnut. In the United States the butternut tree is commonly known as the white walnut.

The composition of the kernel of the dry walnut is shown by the following data:

Edible portion:

As purchased:

General Discussion.

—A brief description has been given above of the principal edible nuts used in the United States, accompanied by a statement of their chemical composition. The character of the food products is well shown by the analytical data. Nuts as a whole are extremely oily substances and contain next in importance as a food material, protein. Alone they constitute an unbalanced ration in which the fat and protein are abundantly present at the expense of the starch and sugar. For this reason an exclusively nut diet cannot be recommended, as it surely tends to unbalance the ratio and to disturb the digestion in the great majority of cases. There are doubtless individuals of a peculiar temperament who can thrive on a diet of nuts alone, but such a case is exceptional. On the other hand the value of the nut as a food is undeniable, both as a nutrient and as a pleasant condimental addition to the food. The large percentage of oil in nuts also in many cases is beneficial from the well-known effect of oil in promoting the digestive activities, mechanical and otherwise. Nuts should be eaten in as fresh a state as possible, especially those of a highly oily character. Rancidity not only spoils the taste but interferes largely with their dietetic value. On account of the high amount of oil, nuts are preëminently a heat-forming food and thus can be eaten very freely by those engaged in vigorous bodily exercise and during cold weather. They also form a food especially useful during periods of extreme exertion, since by their combustion they furnish abundant stores of heat and energy.

Many fads relating to foods flourish in various localities. Among them the school of dietetics, which advises a diet solely of nuts, is worthy of mention. It is true that life can be sustained for an indefinite time on a diet of nuts alone. If the nuts are sought in the forests and fields the good effects of the exercise and outdoor life are to be taken into consideration. There is no reason to believe, however, that the general condition of mankind, from a dietetic point of view, would be improved by an exclusive nut diet. The impossibility of supplying man with such a food product is also a factor in the discussion of the problem that should not be forgotten.