Foster's Complete Hoyle: An Encyclopedia of Games / Including all indoor games played to-day. With suggestions for good play, illustrative hands, and all official laws to date

The Pins are spotted as shown in the margin, the centres 12 inches apart, and those of the back row 3 inches from the edge of the pit. The regulation pins are 15 inches high, 2¼ diam. at the base, 15 inches circumference 4½ from the bottom, and 5¼ at the neck. The Balls must not exceed 27 inches in circumference in any direction, but smaller balls may be used.

Frames. Each player rolls ten frames or innings, in each of which he is supposed to have three balls, although as a matter of fact he rolls two only. In match games, two alleys are used, and the players roll one inning on each alternately.

A Strike is made when all ten pins are knocked down with the first ball of the innings, and it is scored on the blackboard with a cross, the number of pins made with the three balls being filled in afterward. A Spare is made when all ten pins are knocked down with the two balls of one inning, and it is marked with a diagonal stroke. If the player fails to get either a strike or a spare, it is a Break, marked with a horizontal line, under which is written the actual number of pins down. After each ball is rolled any pins that have fallen on the alley are called deadwood, and must be removed before the second ball is rolled.

Counting. If a player makes a strike in one inning, all that he makes on the next two balls rolled, whether in one inning or not, counts also on the strike, so as to give him the total score on three balls for the frame. Three successive strikes would give him 30 points on the first frame, with a ball still to roll to complete the second frame, and two balls to roll to complete the third. If he got two strikes in succession, and 5 pins on the first ball of the third frame, 4 on the second ball, the first frame would be worth 25, the second frame 19, and the break on the third frame 9; making his total score 53 for the three frames.

If the player makes a spare in one inning, all the pins knocked down by the first ball of the next inning count also on the spare. Suppose a spare to be followed by a strike, the frame in which the spare was made would be worth 20. If he made 5 pins only, the spare would be worth 15.

Although the player is supposed to have three balls in each inning, and is allowed to count all he makes on three balls if he gets a strike or a spare, he is not allowed to roll three balls on a break. It was formerly the custom to let him roll the third ball on the chance of getting a break of 10. This was afterward changed to giving him 10 pins, without rolling for them, if he got 9 on two balls; but the present rule is to call it a break if he does not get a strike or a spare in two balls, and not to waste time in rolling the third ball.

Scoring. Instead of putting down the amount made in each inning, the total of the frame is added to the total of the previous score, so that the last figure put down shows the total score up to and including that frame. The following illustration shows the total score of a player for ten innings. The top line of figures gives the number of the frame. The second shows the number of pins knocked down by each ball rolled, and the third line shows how the scores would be actually put down on the blackboard, the strike, spare, and break marks being placed above the figures. With the exception of the second line of figures, which is put in for purposes of illustration only, this might be a copy of an actual score.

As the player made a spare on the last frame, he had another ball to roll, on what was practically a new frame, with which he made 9 pins.

Averages. If a team is playing a match, and one of the players is unavoidably absent, it is the custom to give him credit for his average, according to the records of his previous games during the tournament or the season. This is considered better than appointing a substitute to play for him.

There are a great many varieties of Ten Pins, the most interesting of which will be found described in the following Laws of the game, which are reprinted here by the kind permission of the Brunswick-Balke-Collender Co., from their 1908 edition of the “Bowler’s Guide.”

BOWLING ALLEY LAWS.

RULES AND REGULATIONS GOVERNING THE GAME OF AMERICAN TEN PINS.

Revised at Louisville, Ky., March 19-21, 1906. In effect Sept. 1, 1906.

The alleys upon which the game shall be played shall not be less than 41 nor more than 42 inches in width. The length from the centre of No. 1 pin spot to the foul line shall be 60 feet. Back of the foul line there shall be a clear run of not less than 15 feet. The pin spots shall be clearly and distinctly described on or imbedded in the alleys and shall be so placed 12 inches apart from centre to centre. They shall be 2¼ inches in diameter. The pin spots numbered 7, 8, 9 and 10 shall be placed 3 inches from the pit edge of the alleys, measuring from the edge to the centre of such pin spots.

The pins shall be spotted on the pin spots placed upon the alleys according to the following diagram, and the pins and spots shall be known by the numbers as follows:

The pins shall be of the following design and measurements: 15 inches in height, 2¼ inches in diameter at their base, 15 inches in circumference at a point 4½ inches from their base, 11⅝ inches in circumference at a point 7¼ inches from their base, 5¼ inches in circumference at the neck, a point 10 inches from the base; 8 inches in circumference at the head, a point 13½ inches from the base. The taper from point to point shall be gradual, so that all lines shall have a graceful curve.

The balls shall not in any case exceed 27 inches in circumference nor exceed 16 pounds in weight. Any sized ball of less circumference or weight may be used.

Two alleys immediately adjoining each other shall be used in all games. The contesting teams shall successively and in regular order roll one frame on one alley, and for the next frame alternate and use the other alley, so alternating each frame until the game is completed.

In delivering the ball the player must not permit any part of his foot, while any portion thereof is in contact with the alleys, to rest or extend on, over or beyond the foul line, nor shall any part of his person be permitted to come in contact with any part of the alleys beyond the foul line, at any time before the delivered ball shall have reached the pins. A ball delivered contrary to the provisions of this rule shall be a foul ball, and shall be so declared by the umpire immediately such ball so becomes foul.

No count shall be made on a foul ball, and any pins which are knocked down or displaced thereby shall be at once respotted. A foul ball shall count as a ball rolled against the player.

Pins which are knocked down or displaced by a ball which leaves the alley before reaching the pins, or from a ball rebounding from the rear cushions, do not count, and they shall be immediately respotted.

Every ball delivered, unless it be declared a dead ball by the umpire, shall be counted against the player.

Pins which are knocked down by another pin rebounding in the play from the side partition or rear cushion are counted as pins down.

Pins which are knocked down or displaced from any cause except by a fairly delivered ball shall in all cases be respotted.

Should a player by mistake roll on the wrong alley, or out of his turn, or be interfered with in his play by another bowler or spectator, or should any of the pins at which he is playing be displaced or knocked down in any manner before his delivered ball reaches the pins, or should his ball come in contact with any foreign obstacle on the alleys, then the ball so delivered by him shall be immediately declared a dead ball by the umpire, and such ball shall not count, and shall be immediately re-rolled by the player after the cause for declaring such ball dead has been removed.

Pins which are knocked down by a fair ball, and which remain lying on the alley or in the gutters, are termed dead wood, and shall be removed before the next ball is rolled.

Should a standing pin fall by removing dead wood, such pin or pins shall be at once respotted.

Should a pin be broken or otherwise badly damaged during the game, it shall be at once replaced by another as nearly uniform with the set in use as possible. The umpire shall in all such cases be the sole judge in the matter of replacing such pin or pins.

Each player shall roll two balls in each frame except when he shall make a strike, or when a second strike or spare is made in the tenth frame, when the player shall complete that frame by rolling a third ball. In such cases the frame shall be completed on the alley on which the first strike or spare is made.

A strike is made when the player bowls down the ten pins with his first ball delivered in any frame and is credited and designated in the score by an X in the upper right hand corner of the frame, and the count in such frame is left open until the player shall have rolled his next two balls, when all pins made, counting ten for a strike, shall be credited therein.

A spare is made when the player bowls down all the pins with his second ball in any frame, and is credited and designated with / in the upper right hand corner of the frame in which it is made. The count in such frame is left open until such player shall roll his next ball in the succeeding frame, when the number of pins rolled down thereby shall be added to the ten represented by his spare, and the total shall be credited therein.

A break is made in all cases where the player does not secure either a strike or a spare in a frame, and in such cases only the number of pins knocked down are credited in the frame where the break is made.

If at the end of the tenth frame the team scores shall be a tie, another frame shall be immediately bowled, and play is so continued until at the close of even frames one of the teams shall have a greater number of pins than their opponents, which shall conclude the game.

COCKED HAT.

The game is played with a head pin and the right and left corner pins as shown in the following diagram:

Balls not exceeding six inches must be bowled, and they must be rolled down the alley (not cast or thrown). The rules of American Ten Pins except in St. Louis, where there is a special association with local rules, generally govern this game also, with the exception of three balls instead of two to the frame, but strikes and spares count three instead of ten, and each pin counts one as in Ten Pins. If the bowler knocks down three pins with the ball which is first bowled, in any frame in the game of Cocked Hat, it is a strike, and counts three, and is marked on the blackboard the same as in Ten Pins. What pins the bowler knocks down in the second frame with his first two balls must be reckoned as in Ten Pins, i.e., one for each pin bowled down, which pin or pins must be added to the strike and placed to the credit of the player in the inning where the strike was scored (the strike being computed as three); such strike must be added to pins knocked down with the two succeeding spare balls; thus, should the bowler score a strike, and should he in the next new frame knock down but one pin with his two spare balls, the strike and pin scored must be computed as 4—the strike counting 3 and the pin 1.

Poodles, or balls rolled down the gutter, are fair balls, and any pin or pins which they may get must be counted and placed to the credit of the bowler; dead wood is removed from the alley, and any pins knocked down through dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the bowler. The maximum number which can be bowled is 90.

COCKED HAT AND FEATHER.

The pins are spotted as above, the centre pin being the feather.

Ten innings constitute a game, and three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) must be used in each inning.

All the pins except the feather have to be bowled down or the inning goes for naught.

If the feather is left standing alone, the innings count one.

There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the bowler.

The maximum is 10.

THE BATTLE GAME.

THE PINS ARE SET UP THE SAME AS FOR THE GAME OF TEN PINS.

Four or six innings constitute a battle or game, except in the case of a tie, when another inning is played. In case that inning should result in a tie also, still another inning is played—in fact, until the scores are unequal. In any inning where a tie occurs the score stands over until the next inning, when each point is counted double. If the two innings result in a tie, the score is tripled. Should the total score result in a tie, sufficient innings are played to make the grand score unequal.

The team having the largest score in the previous inning must bowl the first ball, so that the weaker party will have the last ball.

Three balls of regulation size (27 inches in circumference) or under are allotted to each player in each inning.

Each pin bowled down counts 1, including the king pin.

If all the pins except the king pin are bowled down, it counts 12.

The pins are set up as soon as the nine pins are knocked down, or the king pin is the only one left standing.

The alleys are changed alternately.

The dead wood is removed after each ball is rolled.

In case of uneven teams the Dummy or Blind is filled by any substitute the captain may pick out to bowl. He can select any one of his men he chooses, without regard to rotation, or he himself can bowl, but no man can take the place of the blind twice until every member of the team has acted as the substitute.

Poodles count as balls rolled. Any pin or pins knocked down by such balls are set up again in their former positions.

A rebounding ball does not count, and any pin or pins knocked down by it are set up, as in the case of a poodle ball.

When a ball has left the hand and touched the alley, it goes as a rolled ball.

NINE UP AND NINE DOWN.

THE PINS ARE SET UP THE SAME AS FOR THE GAME OF AMERICAN TEN PINS.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are bowled in each inning.

The player must knock down a single pin, which counts 1; then with two remaining balls he endeavors to leave one pin standing, which counts 1. Failure to do either, the inning goes for nothing.

No penalties are attached. Dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through the dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the player.

Ten innings constitute a game.

The maximum is 20.

HEAD PIN AND FOUR BACK.

The pins are set up as above.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are allowed in each inning.

If the four back pins are bowled down and the head pin is left standing, the score is 2. If all the pins are bowled down, the score is 1.

There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through the dead wood remaining on the alleys cannot be placed to the credit of the player.

Ten innings constitute a game.

The maximum is 20.

FOUR BACK.

The pins are spotted as above.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are allotted to each inning.

Each pin counts as spotted, and only one pin can be made at a time; if more than one pin is made with one ball, it is termed a break, and the player loses that inning and scores nothing.

There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through the dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the players.

TEN PINS—HEAD PIN OUT.

ALSO KNOWN AS AMERICAN NINE PINS.

The pins are set as in the diagram.

Ten innings constitute a game.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are bowled.

One pin of the frame must be left standing, or the inning goes for nothing.

There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through the dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the player.

The maximum is 10.

FIVE BACK.

The pins are set as shown in the diagram.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are bowled in each inning.

Should a left-handed bowler be bowling, the second quarter pin can be set up on the left quarter spot.

Strikes and spares count five each.

No penalties are attached. Dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the player.

Ten innings constitute a game.

The maximum is 150.

THE NEWPORT GAME.

THE PINS ARE SET UP THE SAME AS FOR THE GAME OF AMERICAN TEN PINS.

Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are allowed in each inning.

Ten frames constitute a game. The object of the game is to bowl down an exact number of pins from 1 to 10, but not necessarily in routine order. The player who, in ten innings, scores the least number of winning innings is the loser. For instance: A bowls down 2, 5, 7, 8 and 10; B bowls down 1, 6, 8 and 9. Here B loses, as A has one more inning to his credit than B.

Note.—As the larger number of pins are easy to obtain, the superior skill lies in picking out the small numbers. For this reason the pony ball is used, and the small numbers are the points of attack from the start. When the player has bowled down a certain number of pins corresponding with any score he has made, and his remaining ball or balls will be of no avail, an (X) is placed under that number, indicating that the inning goes for naught, as he has already made that score.

Only one score is allowed to each inning. Players alternate in the use of alleys.

Balls bounding from the cushions go for naught.

DUCK PIN GAME.

THE PINS ARE SPOTTED THE SAME AS THE AMERICAN GAME OF TEN PINS.

A regulation Duck Pin shall be 9 inches high, 1½ inches in diameter at the top, 3½ inches in diameter at the body of the pin, and 1⅜ inches in diameter at the base; shall taper gradually from the bottom to the largest part of the body, and shall be as near uniform in weight as possible.

No ball exceeding 4½ inches in diameter can be used in games.

Each player to roll three balls to each frame, and each player to roll two frames at a time.

A line shall be drawn ten feet beyond the regular foul line, and any ball delivered beyond the first named line shall be declared foul.

All other rules of the American Bowling Congress govern.

KINSLEY CANDLE PIN.

The Count—Two balls shall be allowed for frame.

Strikes—A strike is credited when a player bowls over the ten pins with the delivered ball.

Spares—A spare is credited whenever a player clears the alley with the first and second ball.

Breaks—A break is charged to a player at all times when neither a strike nor spare is made.

The Ball—The ball shall not exceed 5½ inches in diameter in any direction, but smaller balls may be used.

A FEW DON’TS.

Don’t try to learn in a day.

Don’t use too much speed at first.

Don’t grip the ball too tight.

Don’t loft the ball.

Don’t play the side ball until you have mastered the centre delivery.

Don’t swing the ball more than once before delivering it.

Don’t start with a jump; walk one and run two steps.

Don’t deliver the ball with the right foot in front.

Don’t step on or over the foul line.

Don’t think you can change the course of the ball after it has left your hand.

Don’t expect a “strike” every time you hit the head pin.

Don’t blame the pin boys if you get a split. They will spot any pin you call their attention to.

Don’t throw away a “spare” because you think you were entitled to a “strike.”

Don’t use any unnecessary motions.

Don’t exert yourself. Take it easy. A slow accurate ball is better than a swift wild one.

Don’t put your whole thumb in the finger hole. One joint is enough.

Don’t use a large finger hole. Big holes make a ball lop-sided.

Don’t roll a ball down the alley when there is a ball in the pit.

Don’t use a wide grip if you have a small hand, or two narrow for a big hand.

Don’t use chalk on your shoes. It not only cracks the leather, but leaves the runway in bad condition for whoever follows you.

Don’t think your wrist is gone if it hurts after bowling a few games. Change your grip and throw the strain somewhere else.

Don’t bend your back when delivering the ball. With your feet far apart and knees bent you can start the ball with little or no sound.

Don’t be superstitious—13 is a better start than 12.

Don’t think it necessary to be a Sandow. Many lightweights bowl well.

Don’t get discouraged, you can learn. Any able-bodied person, with ordinary nerve and a good eye, can become quite expert with little practice.

Don’t let an alley owner use pins that are worn out.

Don’t think you can sandpaper a ball without injuring it. It takes an expert mechanic to true up a lignum-vitæ ball.

Don’t lay a lignum-vitæ ball away DRY, if you don’t want it to crack.

GENERAL LAWS, FOR ALL CARD GAMES.

Very few games have their own code of laws, and only one or two of these have the stamp of any recognised authority. In minor games, questions are continually arising which could be easily settled if the players were familiar with a few general principles which are common to the laws of all games, and which might be considered as the basis of a general code of card laws. The most important of these principles are as follows:—

Players. It is generally taken for granted that those first in the room have the preference, but if more than the necessary number assemble, the selection must be made by cutting. A second cut will then be required to decide the partnerships, if any, and the positions at the table, the latter being important only in games in which the deal, or some given position at the table, is an advantage or the reverse. The usual method of cutting is to spread the cards face downward on the table, each player drawing one. In some games the cards are thrown round by one of the players.

Shuffling, Cutting and Dealing. In all games in which the cards are shuffled at all, each player has the right to shuffle, the dealer last. In English speaking countries the cards are always cut by the player on the dealer’s right, who is called the “pone.” In cutting to the dealer in any game there must be as many cards left in each packet as will form a trick; or, if the game is not one of tricks, as many cards as there will be in any player’s hand; four, for instance, at Whist, and five at Poker. The cards are always distributed to each player in rotation from left to right, and each must receive the same number of cards in the same round. In games in which the cards are dealt by two and threes, for instance, it is illegal to give one player two and another three in the same round.

Misdeals. In all games in which the deal is an advantage, a misdeal loses the deal; but in all games in which the deal is a disadvantage, or some position is more advantageous than that of the dealer, such as the “age” at Poker, a misdeal does not lose the deal. The only exception to this rule is in Bridge, in which there are no misdeals, and Cribbage, which has a fixed penalty.

Bidding. In all games in which there is any bidding for the privilege of playing or of making the trump, or any betting on the value of the hands, the privilege must be extended to each player in turn, beginning on the dealer’s left. Any bid or any bet once made can neither be taken back nor amended. If any bid is made out of turn in any partnership game, it must be assumed that undue information is conveyed, and the player in error, or his partner, must lose his bid. In round games there is no penalty.

Exposed Cards. No player can exact a penalty for his own error, so that if an adversary of the dealer exposes one of his own cards he cannot claim a misdeal, but the dealer’s side may. There should be no penalty for a player’s having exposed a card unless he can derive some benefit from the exposure, such as from his partner’s having seen it. If there is no partner, there should be no penalty, because the player injures himself only. All exposed cards must be left on the table, and may be called upon by the adversaries to be led or played.

The same principles apply to Leading out of Turn. If the player in error has no partner, or his partner is a dummy, and the lead is taken back, no harm is done except to the player himself, and there should be no penalty. If the adversaries fail to observe that the lead was irregular, they are equally at fault with the player, who must be assumed to have erred unintentionally. In games in which a lead out of turn conveys information to a partner, the usual penalty is to call a suit.

If a player is led into error through a previous error on the part of an adversary, he should not suffer any penalty for it, but may take back his card. This is particularly true of following suit to erroneous leads, or playing after a revoke which is afterward amended.

Irregularities in the Hands. In all games in which the player need not follow suit unless he chooses, such as Seven-up, there should be no penalty if the player has not his full complement of cards, because he cannot possibly gain anything by playing with a short hand. But in all such games as Whist, where the absence of a card in plain suits might enable a player to trump, a penalty must be enforced for playing with less than the proper number of cards. In all such games as Poker, it is only to the player’s own disadvantage to play with too few cards, provided he is not allowed to call four cards a flush or a straight, and there should be no objection to his playing with a short hand. Many good players “squeeze” their cards, and if they find a good pair in the first two, they put up the ante without looking further. It is manifestly unfair to bar them out of the pool because the dealer has given them only four cards, which gives them no possible advantage, but rather the reverse. This is in accordance with common sense, and is the law in Cribbage and Piquet.

Discrimination. No person should be allowed any advantage over another which is not compensated for in some way. In Seven-up, for instance, the non-dealer counts game if it is a tie; an advantage which is offset by the dealer’s counting Jack if he turns it. In Auction Pitch the dealer has no such advantage, because no trump is turned, and therefore the non-dealer cannot count ties for game. It is a common error among Cassino players to hold that a player cannot build on his own build, but that his adversary may do so. A player holds two deuces, an Eight and a Ten, and builds a Six to an Eight. It is claimed that an adversary may increase this build to ten, but the original builder may not. This is manifestly unfair, because there is no compensating advantage to the player that is denied the privilege to justify its being allowed to his adversary.

Benefiting by Errors. No player should be allowed to win a game by committing a breach of the laws. If a person revokes, for instance, there is a certain penalty, but in addition to the penalty it is always stipulated that the revoking player cannot win the game that hand.

Double Penalties. No person can be subjected to two penalties for one offence. If a player leads out of turn, and a suit is called, the card played in error cannot be also claimed as exposed and liable to be called. If a player revokes, and his adversary wins ten tricks, the revoke penalty adds three tricks to the ten already won; but these thirteen tricks will not entitle the player to score any points for a slam, because that would be exacting a double penalty; the tricks for the revoke, and the points for the slam.

Intentional Error. In all games it must be assumed that the player’s intentions are honest, and that any errors that arise are committed through inadvertence. Some of our law-makers have attempted so to adjust their codes as to provide against the manœuvres of the blackleg. This is simply impossible. Laws are made for gentlemen, and when it is obvious that a player does not belong to that class the remedy is not to appeal to the laws of the game for protection, but to decline to play with him.

Etiquette. It should be quite unnecessary to legislate against acts which annoy or do injustice to individuals, but there should be some provision in the laws of every game which will secure to each individual equal rights with others in the enjoyment of the game. Some games are especially selfish; Boston, for instance, in which the four players originally forming the table may monopolise the game for the entire evening, without offering newcomers any chance to cut in. All such games should be limited to a certain number of tournées, at the conclusion of which fresh candidates should be allowed to cut into the table.

Technical Terms.

G. stands for German; F. for French.

• Abnehmen or Abheben, G., to cut.
• Abwerfen, G., to discard.
• À cheval, across the line; betting on both sides at once.
• Adversary, (G., Feind). In Mort or Bridge, those who play against the Dummy and his partner.
• Affranchir, F., to establish a suit.
• Age, the eldest hand; sometimes erroneously spelt Edge.
• Albany Lead, a lead in Whist, to show four trumps and three of each plain suit.
• American Leads, leads that show the number of cards in the suit led, at Whist.
• Ames Ace, double aces thrown with dice.
• Anchor Shot, getting the object balls against the cushion and astride the line at baulk-line billiards.
• Ante, a bet made before playing, but after seeing the hand.
• Antepenultimate, the lowest but two of a suit.
• Après, the announcement of a refait at Rouge et Noir.
• Arroser, F., to be compelled to play a trump which will not win the trick.
• Ask for Trumps, playing an unnecessarily high card, when no attempt is made to win the trick.
• Auf die Dörfer gehen, to run for home; to make all your aces and kings, instead of leading trumps.
• A. Y. B. Z., the letters used to distinguish the positions of the four players at Whist; A-B being partners against Y-Z., and Z. having the deal.
• Backgammon. If a player throws off all his men before his adversary has thrown off any, and while one or more of the adversary’s men are still on the side of the board next the winning player, it is a backgammon, or triple game.
• Bath Coup, holding up Ace Jack on a King led by an adversary.
• Battre, F., to shuffle.
• Bedienen, G., to follow suit.
• Bekommen, G., to win.
• Bekennen, G., to follow suit.
• Belle, F., the last game of the rubber.
• Bidding to the Board, means that the points bid for a certain privilege are not to be credited to any player, but are simply the announcement of the value of an undertaking.
• Biseautes (cartes) F., wedges or strippers.
• Blätter, G., playing cards.
• Blocking a Suit, keeping a high card of it, so that the player with a number of smaller cards cannot win tricks with them.
• Blue Peter, the ask for trumps.
• Blind, a bet made before seeing the cards.
• Blinden, G., a widow, an extra hand dealt at any game.
• Board’s the Play, a card once played cannot be taken back.
• Bobtail, a four-card flush or straight, which is accompanied by a worthless card.
• Bone-yard, the stock at dominoes.
• Book, the first six tricks taken by either side at Whist which do not count toward game.
• Both Ends against the Middle, a system of trimming cards for dealing a brace game of Faro.
• Brace Game, a conspiracy between the dealer and the case-keeper at Faro, so that cards improperly taken from the dealing box shall be properly marked by the case-keeper.
• Break. In Billiards, a succession of counting shots made by one player, usually called a “run” in America. In Ten Pins, a break is a failure to make either a strike or a spare.
• Break Even, a system of playing Faro, betting each card to win or lose an even number of times.
• Brelan, F., three cards of the same denomination.
• Brelan Carré, F., four cards of the same denomination.
• Bringing in a Suit, making tricks in a plain suit after the adverse trumps are exhausted.
• Brûler, F., to burn a card.
• Bûche, F., cards that count for nothing, such as the tens and court cards in Baccara; equivalent to the G. Ladons, or Fehlkarten.
• Bucking the Tiger, playing against the bank at Faro.
• Bumblepuppy, playing Whist in ignorance or defiance of conventionality.
• Bumper, a rubber of eight points at English Whist.
• Burnt Cards, cards which are turned face upward on the bottom of the pack, usually in banking games.
• Calling for Trumps, the ask for trumps.
• Cannon, (Am. carrom,) a count made at billiards by causing the cue ball to touch two object balls.
• Capot, F., winning all the tricks.
• Cards, the number of tricks over six at Whist, such as “two by cards.” The majority of cards at Cassino.
• Carrer, (se) to straddle the blind. Contre-carrer, to over-straddle.
• Carrom, see cannon.
• Cartes, F., playing cards.
• Carte Blanche, a hand which does not contain K, Q or J.
• Carte Roi, F., the best card remaining of a suit.
• Cases, when three cards of one denomination have been withdrawn from the box at Faro, the fourth is a case.
• Case-keeper, a board for recording the cards as they are withdrawn from the box at Faro. The word is sometimes applied to the person who keeps cases.
• Cat-hop, two cards of the same denomination left in for the last turn at Faro.
• Cave, F., the amount a player places in front of him at the beginning of play; table stakes.
• Checks, the counters at Poker are checks; at Faro they are chips.
• Chelem, F., a slam.
• Chip Along, to bet a single counter and wait for developments.
• Chouette, à la, taking all the bets.
• Close Cards, those which are not likely to form sequences with others, especially at Cribbage.
• Club Stakes, the usual amount bet on any game in the club.
• Cogging Dice, turning one over with the finger after they have been fairly thrown.
• Cold Deck, a pack of cards which has been pre-arranged, and is surreptitiously exchanged for the one in play.
• Colours, a system of playing Faro according to the colour of the first winner or loser in each deal.
• Command, the best card of a suit, usually applied to suits which the adversary is trying to establish.
• Couper, F., to cut the cards; also to ruff a suit.
• Couleur, F., a suit of cards, such as hearts or clubs.
• Coup, a master stroke or brilliant play; a single roll of the wheel at Roulette, or a deal at Rouge et Noir.
• Compass Whist, arranging players according to the points of the compass at Duplicate Whist, and always retaining them in their original positions.
• Conventional Play, any method of conveying information, such as the trump signal, which is not based on the principles of the game.
• Coppered Bets, bets that have a copper or checker placed upon them at Faro, to show that they play the card to lose.
• Court Cards, the K, Q and J; the ace is not a court card.
• Covering, playing a higher card second hand than the one led, but not necessarily the best of the suit.
• Créve, F., one who is temporarily out of the game, such as one who has overdrawn his hand at Vingt-et-un; as distinguished from one who has lost all his money. The latter would be spoken of as décavé.
• Crossing the Suit, changing the trump from the suit turned up to one of a different colour, especially in Euchre.
• Cross-ruff, two partners alternately trumping a different suit.
• Cul levé, (jouer à) playing one after another, by taking the place of the loser. A vulgar expression.
• Cutting, dividing the pack when presented by the dealer; or drawing lots for choice of seats and deal.
• Cutting In and Out, deciding by cutting which players shall give way to fresh candidates.
• Curse of Scotland, the nine of diamonds.
• Cut Shots, very fine winning hazards.
• Dealing Off, the same dealer dealing again.
• Deck-head, an Irish name for the turned trump at Spoil Five.
• Deadwood, the pins that fall on the alley, in bowling.
• Décavé, F., frozen out; the entire amount of the original stake being lost.
• Défausser, se, F., to discard.
• D’emblée, F., on the first deal; before the draw.
• Despatchers, dice which are not properly marked, having two faces alike, such as double fives.
• Devil’s bed posts, the four of clubs.
• Discarding, getting rid of a card in plain suits when unable to follow suit and unwilling to trump.
• Donne, (avoir la) to have the deal. Donne, the time occupied in playing the cards distributed during a deal, but “coup” is the term generally used.
• Double Pairs Royal, four cards of the same denomination.
• Doubleton, two cards only of a suit.
• Doubling Up, betting twice the amount of a lost wager.
• Doubtful Card, a card led by the player on your right, which your partner may be able to win.
• Draw Shot, any shot which makes the ball return toward the cue; in English, a “screw-back.”
• Duffer, one who is not well up in the principles of the game he is playing.
• Dummy, the exposed hand in Dummy Whist, Bridge, or Mort.
• Duplicate Whist, a form of Whist in which the same hands are played by both sides, and as nearly as possible under the same conditions.
• Dutch It, to cross the suit at Euchre.
• Ecarter, F., to discard.
• Echoing, showing the number of trumps held when partner leads or calls; in plain suits, showing the number held when a high card is led.
• Edge, a corruption of the word “age,” the eldest hand.
• Eldest Hand, the first player to the left of the dealer in all English games; to his right in France.
• Encaisser, F., to hand the stakes to the banker.
• Entamer, F., to lead.
• Established Suits, a suit is established when you or your partner can take every trick in it, no matter who leads it.
• Étaler, F., to expose a card.
• Exposed Cards, cards played in error, or dropped face upward on the table, or held so that the partner can see them.
• Face Cards, K, Q and J.
• Faire les Cartes, F., to shuffle; or to make the majority of cards or tricks in a game.
• Fall of the Cards, the order in which they are played.
• False Cards, cards played to deceive the adversary as to the true holding in the suit.
• Fattening, discarding counting cards on partner’s tricks.
• Feind, G., an adversary; Gegner is the more common word.
• Figure, F., K, Q or J.
• Fille, F., see Widow.
• Finesse, any attempt to take a trick with a card which is not the best of the suit.
• First, Second, or Third Hand, the positions of the players on any individual trick.
• Five Fingers, the five of trumps at Spoil Five.
• Flèches, the points upon a backgammon board.
• Fluke, making a count that was not played for.
• Flush, cards of the same suit.
• Flux, F., only one suit in the player’s hand; a flush.
• Force, to compel a player to trump a trick in order to win it.
• Forced Leads, leads which are not desirable, but which are forced upon the player to avoid those which are still less advantageous.
• Fordern, G., to lead trumps.
• Fourchette, the two cards immediately above and below the one led, such as K J in the second hand on a Q led.
• Four Signal, a method of showing four trumps, without asking for them; usually made by playing three small cards, such as 4 6 2, in that order.
• Fourth-best, the fourth card of a suit, counting from the top. The modern substitute for the terms penultimate, and antepenultimate.
• Front Stall, one who makes acquaintances for gamblers to fleece.
• Frozen, balls touching at billiards.
• Frozen Out, a player who has lost his original stake, and cannot continue in the game.
• Fuzzing, milking the cards instead of shuffling them.
• Gallery, the spectators who are betting on the game.
• Gambling, risking more than one can well afford to lose on any game of chance.
• Gambler’s Point, the count for “game” at Seven-up.
• Gammon. When a player throws off all his men before his adversary throws off any, it is a gammon, or double game.
• Gathering Shots, getting the balls together again after driving them round the table. See Nursing.
• Geben, G., to deal the cards. Sometimes “Vertheilung der Karten” is used.
• Gegner, G., the adversary.
• Grand Coup, trumping a trick already won by partner; or playing a small trump on a trick which he has already trumped.
• Greek, (grec) a card sharp.
• Guarded Cards, cards which cannot be caught by higher cards unless they are led through.
• Hand, the cards dealt to one player; the distribution of the cards in any one deal. A “remarkable hand” might be the play of an entire deal at Whist, for instance.
• Heading a Trick, playing a better card than any already played to the trick, but not necessarily the best in the hand.
• Heeled Bets, bets at Faro which play one card to win and another to lose, but do not win or lose double the amount if both events come on the same turn.
• Hinterhand, G., the last player on the first trick, (Skat).
• His Heels, the Jack turned up for a starter at Cribbage.
• His Nobs, Jack of the same suit as the starter at Cribbage.
• Hoc, or Hockelty, the last card in the box at Faro.
• Honours, usually the highest cards in the suit, such as A K Q J, and sometimes the 10. In Calabrasella the 3 and 2 are honours, and in Impérial the lowest card is an honour.
• Horse and Horse, each player having one game to his credit when they are playing best two out of three.
• Hustling, inveigling persons into skin games.
• Impair, the odd numbers at Roulette.
• Impasse, F., to finesse.
• Imperfect Fourchette, two cards, one immediately above the one led, and the other one remove below it; such as K 10 second hand on a Q led.
• Imperfect Pack, one in which there are duplicate cards, missing cards, or cards so marked that they can be identified by the backs.
• Indifferent Cards, cards of the same value, so far as trick taking is concerned, such as Q and J.
• Inside Straights, sequences which are broken in the middle.
• Intricate Shuffles, butting the two parts of the pack together at the ends, and forcing them into each other.
• Invite, F., leading a small card of the long suit.
• Irregular Leads, leads which are not made in accordance with the usual custom, as distinguished from forced leads.
• Jack Strippers, two bowers, trimmed to pull out of the pack.
• Jenny, a fine losing hazard, made off an object ball close to the cushion, between the side pocket and the baulk.
• Jetons, F., the counters which represent money at any game.
• Jeu, F., derived from jocus, a game. The word is variously applied to the game itself; to the player’s expectation of success; to his plan of campaign; or to the cards in his hand.
• Jeux de Régle, hands which should be played in a certain way on account of their mathematical expectations, (Écarté).
• Keeping Tab, keeping a record of the cards that win and lose as they are dealt at Faro.
• King Card, the best card remaining unplayed of the suit.
• King Row, the four squares on the checker board which are farthest from the player’s own side.
• Kitty, the percentage taken out of a pool to pay for refreshments, or for the expenses of the table.
• Knight Player, one who can give the odds of a Knight to weak players, at Chess.
• Last Trick, an expression used to distinguish the last trick when all the cards are played from the last when all the cards are not played, especially in Bézique and Sixty-six.
• Last Turn, the three cards left in the box at the end of the deal at Faro, the order of which may be bet upon.
• Lead, to play the first card in any trick.
• Levée, F., a trick. (Tric, is the odd trick.)
• Liées, F., to play rubbers.
• Limit, the amount by which one player may increase his bet over that of another.
• Long Cards, the dregs of a suit which has been led several times, and exhausted in the hands of the other players.
• Long Suits, those containing four or more cards, at Whist.
• Lose Out, a card that loses four times in one deal, at Faro.
• Losing Cards, those that would lose tricks if they were led.
• Losing Hazard, pocketing the cue ball.
• Losing Trump, one which is not the best, when only one or two remain.
• Love-all, nothing scored on either side.
• Lurched, not half way toward game.
• Main, F., with avoir this expression is indefinite, and may refer to the deal or the lead. With être, to be in the lead. Dans la main, applies to the possibilities of the hand. Placer la main, to place the lead.
• Make-up, to get the cards ready for the next deal.
• Make the Pass, to put the two parts of the pack back as they were before the cut.
• Maldonne, F., misdeal.
• Manche, F., one game of the rubber.
• Manque, the numbers from 1 to 18 at Roulette. See Passe.
• Marque, F., a score which is kept upon the table by means of counters.
• Martingale, any system which controls the amounts wagered on a series of events. (See chapter on Chance and Probability.)
• Massé, a shot made with the cue held nearly perpendicular.
• Master Card, the best card remaining of a suit which has been played.
• Matsch, G., to win all the tricks, a slam.
• Mechanic, a dealer who can make the cards come any way he pleases at Faro.
• Melden, G., to announce, claim, or show any counting combination of cards.
• Méler, F., to shuffle.
• Memory Duplicate, playing over the same hands at the same table; the players who held the N and S cards getting the E and W for the overplay.
• Menage, F., gathering and arranging the cards for the succeeding deal when two packs are used.
• Milking, taking a card from the bottom and the top of the pack at the same time with the forefinger and thumb.
• Mischen, G., to shuffle.
• Misdeal, any failure to distribute the cards properly.
• Mise, F., the layout, or the original pool.
• Misère Ouverte. There is no such expression as this in French; the proper term is Misère sur table. See Boston.
• Mittelhand, G., the second player on the first trick, in Skat.
• Mixed Pair, a lady and gentleman playing as partners.
• Mort, F., the dummy hand at Whist or Bridge.
• Mouth Bets, those made without putting up the money. One who fails to pay mouth bets is a welcher.
• Muggins, to take a score which has been overlooked by an adversary, especially in Cribbage and Dominoes.
• Natural, anything which wins the stake immediately; 7 or 11 at Craps; 21 at Vingt-et-un; 8 or 9 at Baccara.
• Natural Points, those which must be made every deal, such as big and little cassino, high, low, etc.
• Navette, F., a cross ruff.
• Neben Farbe, G., plain suits.
• Next, the suit of the same colour as the turned trump at Euchre. Diamonds are “next” to hearts.
• Nick, a natural at Craps; 7 or 11 on the first throw.
• Nicknames for Cards: The ♢9 is the curse of Scotland; the ♣4 is the devil’s bedposts; the ♣A is the Puppy-foot; the Jack of trumps at Spoil Five is the Playboy, and the Five of trumps is the Five Fingers.
• N. E. S. W., letters used to distinguish the players at Duplicate Whist. N always leads, unless otherwise specified.
• Nursing, keeping the balls together at Billiards, as distinguished from gathering, which brings them together.
• Odd Trick, the seventh won by the same partners at Whist.
• Open Bets, bets at Faro which play cards to win.
• Openers, cards which entitle a player to open a jack-pot.
• Original Lead, the opening lead of a hand at Whist.
• Pair, F., the even numbers at Roulette. See Impair.
• Pairs, in Duplicate Whist, the partners sitting N and S, or E and W. Any two cards of the same denomination.
• Pairs Royal, any three cards of the same denomination.
• Partie, F., a game which requires a number of deals to decide it.
• Pass, to decline any undertaking in a game.
• Passe, F., the numbers from 19 to 36 at Roulette.
• Pat Hands, those which are played without discarding or exchanging any of the cards originally dealt.
• Pausirenden, G., one who shares in the fortunes of the game, although not actually playing, as the dealer in four-handed Skat.
• Paying in Cards. When the banker and the player’s point is equal, the latter is said to “pay in cards.”
• Penultimate, the lowest but one of a suit at Whist.
• Phaser, F., to change the pack.
• Philosopher, a card sharp.
• Piano Hands, hands which run along smoothly at Whist, and yield no opportunities for loss or gain.
• Piking, making small bets all over the layout at Faro.
• Playboy, the Jack of trumps at Spoil Five.
• Plain Suits, those which are not trumps.
• Point, F., the suit containing the greatest number of pips.
• Pone, the player on the dealer’s right, who cuts the cards.
• Ponte, F., one who plays against the banker.
• Post Mortems, discussions as to what might have been at Whist, sometimes called, “If you hads.”
• Pot, strictly speaking, the amount to be played for when a pool has exceeded a certain limit, especially in Spoil Five and Boston.
• Premier en Cartes, F., the first to play.
• Private Conventions, any system of giving information by the play which could not be understood by a partner unless explained to him.
• Probabilities, the odds in favour of any event.
• Progression, a martingale which increases a bet a certain amount every time it is lost, and decreases it every time it is won.
• Proil, or Prial, Pairs Royal.
• Puits, F., only one to go, the whiskey hole.
• Punters, those who play against the banker.
• Puppy-foot, the ace of clubs.
• Quart, the English equivalent of the French word quatrième, a sequence of four cards.
• Quart Major, A K Q J of any suit.
• Quatorze, F., four cards of the same denomination.
• Quatrième, F., a sequence of four cards.
• Queue, F., the points added for winning the rubber.
• Quinte, F., a sequence of five cards.
• Quitted. A trick is quitted when the fingers are removed from it after it is turned down. In Duplicate, a trick is not quitted until all four players have removed their fingers from it. A score is quitted when the fingers are removed from the counters, the peg, or the pencil.
• Raffles, the same number appearing on all the dice thrown.
• Ranche, leaving the black pin standing alone at Pin Pool.
• Re-entry Cards, cards in other suits which bring in long suits at Whist.
• Reizen, G., to draw a person on; to irritate or provoke him to bidding more than he should.
• Rejoué, duplicate whist.
• Renege, failure to follow suit, having none. See Revoke.
• Renounce, same as renege.
• Rentrant, F., the player who takes the place of the loser in a previous game.
• Renvier, F., to raise the bet, to improve.
• Retourne, F., any card turned on the talon, or for a trump.
• Revoke, failure to follow suit when able to do so, as distinguished from a renounce or renege.
• Ring In, to exchange any unfair for fair gambling implements during the progress of the game. See Cold Deck.
• Robbing, exchanging a card in the hand for the turn-up trump, or discarding several for the trumps remaining in the pack. See Cinch and Spoil Five.
• Rooking, hustling, inveigling a person into a game for the purpose of cheating him.
• Round, a round is complete when each player has had equal advantages with regard to deal, dummy, etc.
• Round Games, those which do not admit of partnerships.
• Rubber, winning two out of three games. F., Robre.
• Rubiconed, lurched, defeated before getting half way.
• Ruffing, trumping a suit.
• Run, a succession of counting shots at Billiards.
• Schnitt, G., a finesse.
• Schneiden, G., to finesse. Schinden is sometimes used.
• Scratch, a fluke, a score which was not played for.
• Screw Shot, a force shot at Billiards.
• Second Dealing, dealing the second card from the top of the pack, keeping back the top card until it can be dealt to yourself or your partner.
• See Saw, a cross ruff.
• Sequence, three or more cards next in value to one another. The word is sometimes used for two cards only.
• Short-card Player, a poker player; usually a sharper also.
• Short Suits, those containing less than four cards.
• Short-stop Billiards. Short-stop players are those who are good enough to play in halls hired for the purpose, but who stop short of the championship class.
• Shuffling, any method of disarranging the cards so that no trace remains of their order during the previous deal or play.
• Sights, the diamonds on the rail of an American billiard table.
• Signalling for Trumps, playing a higher card before a lower in a plain suit, when no attempt is made to win the trick.
• Singleton, one card only of any suit.
• Skin Games, those in which a player cannot possibly win.
• Skunked, whitewashed, schwartz, beaten without having been able to score a single point.
• Slam, winning all the tricks. Little Slam, winning 12 out of 13 possible.
• Sleeper, a bet left or placed on a dead card at Faro.
• Sneak, a singleton which is led for the especial purpose of ruffing the second round of the suit.
• Snowing the Cards, milking or fuzzing them.
• Soda, the first card at Faro, exposed face upward in the box before any bets are made.
• Splits, two cards of the same denomination coming on the same turn at Faro.
• Spot Stroke, a series of winning hazards with the red ball at English billiards.
• Square Game, one in which the cards are perfectly square, and have not been trimmed for wedges, strippers, etc.
• Squeezers, cards with indicators on the edges.
• Stack of Chips, twenty. A “stack of whites” is $5.
• Starter, the cut card at Cribbage.
• Stechen, G., to trump.
• Still Pack, the one not in play when two are used.
• Stock, cards left after the deal is complete, but which are to be used in the following play.
• Stool Pigeon, a hustler.
• Straight Whist, playing a hand and immediately shuffling the cards for another deal, as distinguished from Duplicate.
• Strength in Trumps, enough to justify a player in passing a doubtful trick; usually four or five at least.
• Strengthening Cards, those which are of no practical trick-taking value to the leader, but which may be useful to the partner; usually restricted to Q J 10 9.
• String Bets, those that take all the odd or all the even cards to play one way, win or lose, at Faro.
• Strippers, cards trimmed so that certain ones may be pulled out of the pack at will.
• Strohman, G., the dummy at Whist or Bridge.
• Strong Suits, those in which a number of tricks can be made after the adverse trumps are out of the way.
• Sub Echo, a trump signal in a plain suit, made after partner has led trumps, and the player has not echoed on the trump lead.
• Sub-sneak, a two-card suit which is led for the sole purpose of getting a ruff on the third round.
• Sweating Out, winning a game without taking any risks, by waiting for the trifling points that fall to your share.
• Systems, any guide that keeps a player from guessing in the distribution of his bets; as distinguished from a martingale, which controls the amount of the wager itself.
• Table Games, Chess, Checkers, and Backgammon.
• Tables, the ancient name for Backgammon.
• Taille, F., a number of packs shuffled together, which are not to be reshuffled or cut until all have been used.
• Talon, the same as Stock.
• Team Playing, requiring every member of a team to play with every other an equal number of times, at Whist.
• Tenace. The major tenace is the best and third best cards remaining, or unplayed, in any suit, such as A Q. The minor tenace is the second and fourth best, such as K J.
• Têtes, Kings, Queens and Jacks.
• Three-card Monte. A game in which three cards are dexterously thrown on the table by a gambler, and the victim is induced to bet that he can pick out one which has been previously named and shown.
• Three-echo, an echo on a trump lead when holding three only.
• Three-on-a-side, a system of playing Faro, in which cards are bet to win or lose an odd number of times.
• Tournée, F., see Round.
• Trailing, playing a card which accomplishes nothing.
• Trash, to discard.
• Tric, F., the odd trick at Whist or Mort.
• Tricon, F., three cards of the same denomination.
• Tric-Trac, the European name for Backgammon.
• Trump-showing Leads, a system of private conventionalities in leading plain suits at Whist, to show the number of trumps held by the leader.
• Unblocking, getting out of your partner’s way when he has more cards of the suit than you have.
• Underplay, leading a card which is not the best of a suit, when the best would naturally be led; or holding up the best card to let another player win the trick.
• Vade, F., the pool to be played for.
• Vergeben, G., misdeal.
• Verleugnen, or Verläugnen, G., to revoke.
• Vivant, F., Dummy’s partner.
• Vole, F., winning all the tricks, a slam.
• Vorhand, G., the eldest hand, at Skat.
• Vorwerfen, G., to play out of turn.
• Weak Trumps, not enough to justify a player in passing a doubtful trick.
• Wedges, cards trimmed to taper toward one end, so that if certain ones are reversed they can be easily pulled out.
• Welcher, one who makes mouth bets, and afterward fails to pay.
• Whipsawed, losing two different bets on the same turn.
• Whiskey Hole, only one to go.
• Whitewashed, defeated without having scored a point.
• Wide Balls, those which are near the corner of the table, and are almost sure to be hit by a ball coming from either cushion.
• Wide Cards, those which are too far apart to be likely to form sequences. See Close Cards.
• Widow, any extra hand dealt in any game.
• Wimmeln, G., to bunch the points together; to fatten a trick for the partner.
• Wimmelfinte, G., leading a card which is calculated to induce the second hand to fatten the trick for his partner.
• Winning Hazards, pocketing the object ball.
• Winning Out, a card that wins four times in the same deal at Faro.
• Yarborough, a hand at Whist containing no card higher than a Nine; the odds against it are 1827 to 1.
• Younger Hand, the one not the leader in two-handed games.
• Zange, G., a fourchette or tenace.
• Zwickmuhle, G., a cross ruff.

DRIVE WHIST.

There are several methods of playing Drive Whist; the most popular being to fill as many tables as possible with the players that present themselves, regardless of any order further than that partners should sit opposite each other. The players may select their own partners, or they may be determined by lot, according to the decision of the hostess.

Straight whist is played; the cards being shuffled and cut afresh for every hand. Each deal is a game in itself.

Drawing for Partners. If there is an equal number of ladies and gentlemen, and the number is less than fifty-two, a sufficient number of red and black cards should be sorted out, and the ladies asked to draw from the red, the men from the black; those getting the same denominations being partners. For instance: 16 couples present themselves for play. The thirteen Hearts and the A 2 3 of Diamonds should be put into one hat for the ladies; the thirteen Clubs, and A 2 3 of Spades being put into another for the men. Those drawing the same denomination of Hearts and Clubs, or of Spades and Diamonds are partners.

Before play begins, the number of hands which it is proposed to play should be announced, or a time set for adjournment.

Driving. There is no rank attached to the tables, but they should be arranged in such a manner that players may know which table to go to next. The partners seat themselves wherever they please, and at the tap of the bell at the head of the table the deal is cut for, and play begins. The winners of the majority of the thirteen tricks at each table go to the next table. Here they may either continue to play as partners, or may divide, which ever has been the style of play decided upon by the hostess. When the partnerships have been drawn for, it is usual to preserve them for the evening.

The losing gentleman at each table has the deal for the next hand.

Scoring. Every hand must be played out for all it is worth, both winners and losers scoring all the tricks they take. If the same partners play together throughout the evening, one score-card will do for the couple. If they divide, each individual must have his or her own score-card. The winners are those who have taken the greatest number of tricks in the agreed number of hands, or during the time limit. When partners divide as they drive on, there should be two prizes, one for ladies, and one for gentlemen.