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From Vermont to Damascus

Chapter 4: FROM VERMONT TO DAMASCUS.
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About This Book

A first-person travel narrative recounts a winter voyage from New England through Italy, Egypt, the Holy Land, Greece, and Constantinople, returning via central and western Europe and the British Isles. Presented as letters and episodic sketches, it blends vivid descriptions of landscapes, urban scenes, and local customs with shipboard anecdotes and portraits of people encountered, accompanied by illustrations. Practical material includes packing instructions, currency guidance, route notes, and tips for prospective travelers. The tone is observant and diaristic, progressing chronologically through outward and return stages and emphasizing everyday details useful to readers planning similar journeys.

FROM VERMONT TO DAMASCUS.

The bleak, rugged winter of 1895 in Vermont, when Jack Frost held nightly carnivals and mercury was found in the lower regions, the snow was scurrying from hill-top to vale to find a resting place,—such environments caused the author of this little volume to dream of fairer skies and warmer climes. Sunny Italy, with her groves of orange and lemon trees, her gardens filled with fruit, her gladioli and lilies leading the flowery kingdom, was a drawing card to a Vermonter in the short days of January. Such a picture caused me to decide to leave old Vermont for the winter, spending my days farther south, until she had put on her summer garments, when she would become the loveliest spot on earth. About this time the clarion trumpet of Dr. A. E. Dunning, of the Congregationalist, was heard through the land, calling for fair women and brave men to join him in his Oriental tour. His itinerary through Italy, Egypt, and the Holy Land was an attractive one; and the die in my case was soon cast. Believing it to be an unwise thing for a married man to take such a journey without his wife, wisdom had its way. The party was made up from eleven different States. Miss Daniels, a charming young lady from Grafton, and the two members from Springfield, were the only representatives from Vermont. The number of our party to leave New York was, like Paul’s chastisements, forty save one; and they were to be under the guiding care of “Henry Gaze & Sons,” of London. The first essential step was to procure tickets, passports, letters of credit, suitable clothing, pluck, courage, and a determination to have a good time.

February 14th found us on board an express train, wending our way down the Connecticut Valley, stopping for a night at Hartford with friends, and reaching New York the 15th. That afternoon we attended a reception at the St. Denis Hotel, given by Dr. Dunning, where we were to meet those of the Oriental party that we had never met before, but were hoping for pleasant friendships with in the future.

Introductions, hand-shaking, coffee, and viands were the order of the afternoon; and every one seemed pleased with the other fellow, and the verdict was that the doctor had shown wisdom in making up his party for the Holy Land.

February 16th found us on board the “Normannia,” and baggage nicely stowed away. Many friends of the Oriental party were on board with good wishes for a successful journey. Occasionally we saw a tear, but smiles predominated.

At twelve o’clock the whistle blew for all those not intending to sail to leave the boat. The gangplank was drawn in; and the “Normannia” weighed anchor, slowly swung her prow down the North River, and a journey of some eighteen thousand miles began.