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Garment cutting in the twentieth century

Chapter 83: INDEX.
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About This Book

A practical tailoring manual that presents a systematic method of garment cutting based on geometric bases and precise angular measurements. Diagrams constructed from both the center of a circle and a square corner demonstrate construction across many angles, with special attention to paired fifteen-degree wedges and shoulder slope, and detailed treatment of gores, wedges and body spreads. All calculations use horizontal, perpendicular and parallel measures to prioritize fit while allowing fashionable elements to be adapted to the permanent bases. Rooted in decades of workshop experience and iterative testing, the text stresses careful study, fitting adjustments, and reproducible procedures rather than fixed stylistic rules.

INDEX.

PAGE.
Preface, 3
Scales and Measures, 6
Pants, 9
The Angle of 7½ Deg. for Pants, 14
General Remarks about Pants, 20
Stripes, 26
Coat and Vest Bases and the Angle of 135 Deg., 27
Squares of 17½ and 20, 29
Diameter of Both Shoulders from Side to Side, 31
Angle of 15 Deg. for Coats and Vests, 33
The Square and the Circle, 37
Vests, 38
Frock and Sack Coats and Vests, 41
Garment from Neck to Ankle, 44
Combination of Frock and Sack Coats, 45
Over Coats—Frock, Three and Five Seamed Sacks, 47
Figures and Diagrams, 52
Under Sack Coats, 89
Narrow and Broad Backs, 92
The Neckhole and Shoulder Seam, 95
Collars, 97
Armhole and Sleeve, 100
Centers of Back and Front, 104
The Waist Seam and Bottom, 109
Large Waists and the Normal Form, 112
Stooping Forms, 114
Erect Forms, 117
Odd Forms, 121
Low Shoulders, 124
Extra Square Shoulders, 126
Scientific Calculation in the Square and Circle, 127
Chips and Whetstones, 128
See Chips and Whetstones for the following: Stretching the Breast of a Coat and the Armhole.—To make a thin edge on worsted, without binding.—Buttonhole Cords.—Corded Pockets on Fringy Material.—How to Treat and Instruct an Apprentice.—Lecture to Young Cutters, Etc.
Stretching and Shrinking: See Pants.General Remarks about Pants.Stooping Forms.Erect Forms.Center of Back and Front.
Combination of Coat and Vest: See Dia. III and XII.
Sack with Two Seams: See Undersacks.
Sack without Downward Seams (Seamless): See Undersacks.
Supplement, 133