Fig. 15
THE SIDE-BODY.
Cut out the back and lay it on the paper in such a manner that the breast-line will lay on the same line further towards the front, so that there will be sufficient room at the bottom to draft out the side-body whole. Now, first draw along the edge of the back from 6 to 2; go in at 2 one inch, and curve from the blade down to 13.
At 13 draw a straight line down, and curve out from 13 to 18; this last will be exactly underneath point 8 of the back, and from here to the bottom draw it with a slight curve to 20, which is the same length as point 10 of the back.
From 14 to 13 is 2 inches, and make the distance from 11 to 12 the same; now draw a straight line from 12 to 14, and down to the bottom.
Go out from 15 to 16 one inch, and curve seam from 14 to 19, which should not be over 1½ inch outside of straight line. Draw line from 20 to 19.
THE FRONT.
Lay the side-body on breast-line and back in position against side-body, so that the breast-line of each lays correct and straight, then measure from I on centre of the back to the centre of the front D, half-breast, or 18 inches; at this last point draw a line up and down for front line.
Point 12 of the side-body will now be the same as point 21 of the front; draw down to 27 a line with a slight curve to shape in at waist; also draw a straight line down from 27 to 35 at bottom.
From P to C is one-sixth, or 3 inches, and the same to 23, now sweep the neck from P.
From C, which is one-half inch above the top line for erect or ordinary builds, on the line draw one to B on the back.
Now measure the length of shoulder on the back from 5 to 4, and place the same from C to 22, and curve a little above it, as shown in Fig. 15. From G on side-body forward to front of arm is one-fourth, or 4½ inches, where a line is drawn from H; then finish arm-hole from 22 to H and 21.
Finish the side-seam by going out at 31 1 inch to 33, and curve seam to 34; also locate the length by laying the side-body, point 12, on 21, and where 19 comes is 34.
From C, by 34, sweep the bottom of front and straighten this some in the centre.
At the centre of breast-line, beyond D, put one-half of breast, and curve the front line from 23 to waist at S, where it comes back to the straight line, and thence to the bottom at 30, where it is one-half inch outside of it. For a double-breasted jacket make the lap 2½ inches at breast, 2 at waist, and 2¼ at bottom. Whatever the size of the draft at waist, from points S to 1½ on back, exceeds the actual measure must be taken out in darts.
In this Figure we take out one dart only, starting in the centre, J, which is between H and D, and take out between points 25 and 26, the full amount which will be about 2½ or 3 inches, starting the dart at 24, two-thirds above 25, and finishing about 4 inches below the hip-line.
In case two darts are preferred they are put in as already shown in previous Figures.
FIG. 16. SACK JACKET.
This shows the manner of drafting a jacket with an extra piece under the arm and only one dart in the front. The correctness of the lines, and the simplicity of the process, will be of much benefit to our students. This method is the same as we have given in several different styles, and therefore it is drafted in a similar manner. It requires only one method to draft all kinds of garments, and our aim in giving the different shapes is to familiarize our readers with its application to a variety of shapes and styles, so that whatever garment they may be called to cut they will be able to do it.
Let us take a size—36 breast, 24 waist, with a length of 30 inches, and a waist reaching down from neck 15½ inches.
In drafting, first draw the line O-F.
From O go down three-fourths inch for the top of the back.
From the top of the back to D is the length to the waist, 15½ inches; from the same point down to the bottom of the garment measure 30 inches to F.
At D go in to point 14 1½ inch. Then from the top of the back to 14 draw a straight line, and also draw one from 14 to F, curve slightly over the line below 14, past 20, to F. Make the width from 14 to 2 two inches, and run a line parallel with back-line from 2 to 29, and curve it a trifle, as shown on the Figure.
From O go down to C one-quarter of the breast, which is 9 inches, and draw a line across. Draw a line from O over to K at right angles with the back-line.
In the middle, between O and C, fix a point marked B and draw a line over to N. From C to G is one-third breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches, and draw a line at right angles with line C-G. From G to H is one-fourth breast, equal to 4½ inches, there draw a line at right angles with the one under arm.
From 1, centre of back, to J, at the front of the breast, place one-half of the breast-measure, equal to 18 inches, and at J draw a right angle line up and down like line K-J and S. From O to 13 is 2 inches.
From N to 13 draw a line, and then, commencing at 13, curve the shoulder, letting it rise above the last line one-half inch to 14.
Starting three-fourths inch inside of line G begin to curve the arm-hole past 12 to 17 and H. In the middle, between N and G, fix the point to start seams from for the back. Draw line from thence past 19 to 2 and 29—this makes the back with narrow shoulders.
To draw the first side-body place from 2 to 3 one inch, curve the line from 19 to 3, gradually beginning to separate below 19 without curving too much, care being taken to get a neat curve. Below 3 curve toward the back till at hip, 21, it will meet the back, and thence downwards, till at the bottom it will over-lap the back 1 inch to 30.
Make the width of side-body at the top any distance desired, say 3 inches, and make it the same at waist, or from 3 to 4, 3 inches. Then curve from 17 to 4.
Lay a long straight-edge, closing at 17, and three-fourths inch from point 4; while in this position mark a line along it from the hip-line downward, and connect it by a curve from 4 to 24.
Go in from 4 to 5 a distance of three-fourths inch, and curve from 17 to 5, but be careful to commence to separate side-body only 1½ inch below 17. Lay a straight-edge, as before, at 17, and three-fourths inch from 5, so that it will lay towards front, then from hip downwards draw a line to the bottom and finish by curving from 5 to meet this at hip, 23.
From 17 to 18 may be only 1½ or 2 inches, according to the size—2 inches will be sufficient for a 36 breast.
Draw a straight line to 6 and take out a slight curve to shape it to the form. Again, lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 6, and mark along it from the hips downward; curve from 6 to hip.
Commencing at 18, curve the front to 7, taking out one-half inch, then lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 7 mark along it below the hips and finish the curve from 7 to 25.
To produce the front, place from K to P one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, also the same from K to 16. From P to B draw a line, then place the same distance as on the back shoulder from 13 to 24 on to P to produce point 15, or the length of front shoulder, curve it above this line, and at 15 drop it one-half inch below. At 15 curve the arm-hole to H, going outside of the line enough to give the arm-hole a good shape, but under no consideration go beyond point H—rather go inside.
Curve the front-line one-fourth inch inside of 16, and outside at J one-half inch, and coming back to R, where it should spring out to the bottom one-half inch at S.
Add beyond last curve 1 inch for the lap, on a single-breasted jacket, all the way down.
Measure from 14 to 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6, and 7 to R, which will be about 15 inches; but as the waist must be 12 inches, or one-half of 24, we must take out the difference in a dart, which is 3 inches. Divide the space between H and J which gives point I, and from this draw a straight line down. Go down from I 2 inches to 17. On each side of the line at 9 place one-half of the dart, 1½ inch, then curve from 17 to 8, 27 and 35; also from the same point to 10, 28 and 36. At the bottom it should be three-fourths inch.
Fig. 16.
The bottom of the first side-body must be one-half inch longer than the back; the second the same length as the first; and the front must start at the same length as the second, and curve forward 1 inch below line 33 to 37.
FIG. 17. SHORT JACKET.
This gives a short jacket, of a neat, peculiar shape. As regards the darts all points are the same as given in Fig. 18, except that instead of putting in two side-bodies we only cut a dart out under the arm, and one across the front, both being equal, of a size required to make the waist lay close. The dart in front is started from H and runs into the pocket.
Fig. 17.
The back is made 4 inches wide at the waist and wide enough at the bottom to harmonize with it. Point F is the hip. Any sleeve cut to the size of arm-hole will go with this.
FIG. 18. JERSEY BLOUSE.
Draw line O-J and O-F. From O to D is one-fourth of breast. From O to 20 is three-fourths inch. From O to D take one-half the distance to get point B, and in the centre, between B and D, is point C. From 20 to E is length of back and to F the full length.
Fig. 18.
Go in from E 1½ inch and draw the back-line from 20 to 1½ and to F. From O is 2 inches for top of back to 2. From D is one-third of breast and 1 inch to G. Draw a line up from G to 6. From 6 draw one to 2 and curve 1 inch above it at 1.
Curve arm-hole from 1 through 9 to 10. From G to H is one-fourth of breast—4½ inches on a 36 breast. Draw a line up. From back, near D, to K is one-half of breast. Draw line up and down. From J back to I is one-sixth of breast, and the same down to 3.
From I to 6 draw a line. Curve above line at 18 one-half inch for front shoulder, and curve the arm-hole from 18 to 17, and H to 10. Point 10 is about 1½ inch from G.
Make the width of back 5½ inches from 1½ and 9½ inches to point 10, and 10 inches at bottom. Then curve the side-seam at 10 to 5½ and U. From N, at front of the waist, go in 3 inches, to 16 4½ inches, and to 4 6 inches.
Draw a straight line up and down through 16, and form the dart, from 20, through 3 and 4, to 5 and 6.
Lay the back on the front to meet at 10, 5½ on V, 8 on U, to get the right curve for the side seam.
Measure the waist and make the distance at V to correspond with it. Using I as pivot sweep from 8 for the bottom of the front.
Add one-half inch button-stand, and 1 inch on the side the buttons are sewed on. Buttons should be 1 inch apart.
The Jersey is finished with standing collar.
This pattern is intended only for goods which are elastic—like stockinet or tweed.
The seams in the dart and at side should be stretched somewhat in pressing, thus allowing them to fit closer to the form.
FIG. 19. GIRL’S SACK.
This is a sack for a young girl of size 31 breast, close-fitting. The figure illustrates a very jaunty and comfortable jacket.
For the Fall Season it should be made of heavy ribbed cloaking, of a dark shade of grey, and an extra neat finish is obtained by binding it with a braid of a darker shade, and buttons to match the braid.
It has eight buttons in front, is cut single-breasted, with a very small turn-over lapel, which allows it to be buttoned up close to the neck.
A side edge is imitated on the back by braid, and three buttons put on it.
The full-size pattern may be cut by following the Figure, as represented, using inches for every number marked out.
In order that this may be readily understood we will go over this manner of doing it again, so that our readers who desire to take them off may not make any mistakes.
First draw a line on the edge of paper, and draw out the back first, by fixing a point at the top.
O is the starting point. From O go down in inches as indicated by the points marked ¾, 2¾, 5¾, 13, 20 and 34.
Draw lines across from these points and apply the numbers on the Figure to these lines. When all these points are fixed connect the points by lines, which will form the outlines of the back.
For the side-body use the same process and you will have the full size. It can be made double-breasted by adding 1½ inch in front of the breast all the way down.
Fig. 19.
FIG. 20. BRAIDED JACKET.
This Figure represents a fashionable style of close-fitting jackets for Spring wear. They are made single-breasted, having the buttons close together, and have the appearance of a Jersey. The same may be made double-breasted by the addition of 2 inches to the front. In trimming they may be plain, with nothing but small flat lasting, or a round crochet button. Braid in military style may be used, or a simple binding.
The Figure is drawn from a pattern of a 36 breast, 25 waist; the length may be regulated to taste. In drafting this pattern use inches for all the figures on the draft.
Fig. 20.
FIG. 21. DOUBLE-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET.
This gives an elegant and very stylish jacket. The front is double-breasted towards the top with a broad, sharp lap, while at the waist only one button is used.
In order to enlarge the draft to full size, which is a 36 inch breast-measure, use inches for all the figures on the draft.
The jacket itself is finished at the neck with a collar, which is put on to the cape. The front, at the neck, is held together by an agraffe ornament. This garment, as it should appear, may be seen by the illustration.
Fig. 21.
FIG. 22. LADY’S JACKET.
These drafts illustrate a new style of lady’s jacket, which will be acceptable to many for street wear. The style and general effect at once denote the character of the garment. The jacket is well adapted for outdoor wear. It is made with a moderate addition for double-breasted added on to the fore-part, and the button holes are worked in close together, as the buttons now used are so very small; therefore, on this jacket, they are placed only one inch apart.
The waist is medium length, and the skirt can be made to suit the height of the lady. A lap-over is made at the centre of the back skirt, finished off with small buttons put close together.
The pockets may be put in at the side like a coat pocket, or only a flap put on, leaving the top edge unfastened, which forms the opening. In the latter case it can be ornamented with buttons. Pockets, however, are only put in when it is cut longer than Figure.
The sleeves are narrow, finished by a row of buttons, and can be regulated in width by the measure of the arm. This is very essential, as ladies now-a-days like the sleeve as close as possible.
The darts are cut down to the bottom, which is more preferable to running them to a point, as a seam looks better which runs continuously to the bottom. Cutting the dart so that it reaches only to the hip, will, unless carefully made, rise up in a puff at its lower end. It must always be borne in mind that the spring must be allowed to rise at the side-seam. The sudden rise of a lady’s hip, and the marked difference between the size of the waist and of the body but a few inches below, make it extremely difficult to obtain the necessary amount of freedom for the prominence of the figure at this part of the body.
The bottom edge of this jacket should be edged on the inside by a facing of silk, which is held on tight so that the edge may cling close to the dress-skirt.
The collar is cut like a coat-collar and the lapel rolls short. A narrow binding one-half inch wide is put on the edge on all goods with a close and firm texture, while on heavy, loose material, the stitching looks more appropriate.
Fig. 22.
The button-holes run down to the bottom of the skirt. This form of jacket makes up well in fine diagonal or brocaded velvet.
For heavy winter wear, rough suiting will make very stylish garments.
The lower edge of this jacket may be drawn straight across instead of curving up over the hips as on the Figure, and then it is equally as well adapted to be worn with any dress, as in the shape we illustrate.
FIG. 23. SINGLE-BREASTED LONG SACK.
Figure 23 represents a long, close-fitting, single-breasted sack, consisting of back, side-body, front and sleeve. They are all drawn by measuring the lines, and placing the number of inches on each line as designated by the numbers shown on the Figure. Thus, for the back draw a straight line from O, then apply each measure as shown, and draw the lines across at right angles with the line O. When these figures are all located, finish by drawing the outlines.
Draw the straight line O down to the desired length for the side-body; at 28½ apply the figures on the lines—when these are all fixed curve the outlines.
For the front, draw the straight line down from O, and mark the number of inches for both length and width; when these are all fixed finish the outlines.
Fig. 23.
The sleeve is drawn from O down to the required length, applying the number of inches for length as well as width, as shown; after these have all been found, and the line drawn at right angles with the line O, draw the outlines. After the upper part of the sleeve has been drawn cut it out; then locate the points for the under-sleeve, and lay the back of upper-sleeve against the points of the back part of the under-sleeve, and draw it like the back of upper-sleeve; fix the points in front, and lay the upper-sleeve on and draw for the front of sleeve, then finish for top, as shown.
FIG. 24. JACKET OR CLOAK—FROM A WAIST PATTERN.
The method which is explained below is one of the most handy, as well as the easiest, that can be used, and will invariably produce good results. It is evident, in the first place, that the original pattern must have the essential qualities of fit and good lines, otherwise it would be of little value as a base or guide to produce another garment. In order to get such a waist pattern one must be able to design it, or have it on hand; in the latter case we are prepared to furnish these patterns when ordered.
THE BACK:
In drafting a jacket pattern, first draw a line (like O-G) on the edge of your paper. Lay the back against the line at O and within 1½ inch of the line at the waist, then trace along the centre seam from O to 5. Now move it one-fourth inch away, this is for seam; then the same quantity is allowed above at neck from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3.
Along the arm-hole, from 3 to 4, trace close to the pattern. Measure next the length wanted from O to 5 and 9 and draw a line over to 10. From 5 to 9 draw a straight line, and then curve outside of this, at point 8, about one-half inch, as shown on Figure.
Make the width of waist any size desired, say 3 inches, which establishes point 7, and from this point draw a line down to 10. This line should be no further away from the first line at 10 than at 7, or the distance from the line 9 to 10 should be the same as at waist, from 1½ to 7. Now, starting at 4, slightly curve to 7 and go one-half inch outside of straight line to 10.
THE SIDE-BODY.
In this case, as on the back, the first thing we do is to draw a straight line from O to 10. Now lay the side-body against it, at O, and swing it away from the line at the waist 1¼ inch. Trace along the pattern from O to 1¼. Then move the pattern one-fourth inch away from the last line, which would leave from 1 to 3 just one-fourth inch for the seam. From 5 to 6 go in one-half the distance allowed over and above the allowance on the back, as from 6 to 7. Now curve the side-body from 2 to 5, keeping as nearly as possible the same shape as the original. Then from 5 draw a line down parallel with the first line which runs from O to 10. Now apply the back from 2 to 9 and regulate the length, which is point 9; then from 5 curve one-half inch outside of straight line at 8 to 9. At 9, square across to 10, and also draw a straight line from 1¼ to 10, and begin to curve from 3, past 7, to 10. This curve should be more round near hip, or begin to curve closer to the waist. The curves on the back and on the side seam, from 5 to 8, may be gradual, as it thus has the appearance of being longer waisted than it actually is.
THE FRONT.
Fig. 24.
First draw the straight line like O-B. Lay the fore-part of the pattern against this line, touching at the centre of the breast, B, and trace along it at the front from 1 to the bottom at 3. Next move the pattern back one-half inch to B. Trace along the arm-hole without any allowances, but on the top of shoulder add one-fourth inch, also a trifle at neck. On the side-seam, from 15 to 20, add one-fourth inch; then lay the finished side-body on top of the front, touching point 15, and at the waist at 20, and finish the balance from 20 to 22 by the side-body. Now from the top of the shoulder-point, by the bottom, point 22, sweep the bottom to the front at B. From 3 to B draw a straight line, and for a double-breasted jacket, as the Figure given, add on to the front, at B, 3 inches, at waist 2½ inches, at the bottom 3 inches, and shape it as shown. At the bottom, after it has been curved by a sweep, straighten it one-half inch above the sweep in the centre. Instead of two darts at the back only one is used, as shown, and this one can be increased one-half inch, and a cut is also taken out under the arm from 16 to 17.
It is evident that two darts can be put in as well as one, or when the same is intended for plush goods the darts can be left out altogether without altering the balance in any manner.
To produce a collar for this jacket draw a line from C, where it is intended to roll, to E, which is one-half inch from curved line of neck; then drop down from this line at 13 to 11 one inch and curve the break, as shown from 11 to E. From 11 to 12 is ¾ inch; curve this also to neckline at F, and thence along the neck to the front. From 11 to 13 make the part of collar which is to turn over 1½ to 2 inches wide, and shape to the front at G.
Sleeves for this jacket are cut similar to those already explained.
FIGS. 25 AND 26. WALKING COAT.
Fig. 25.
By using a sack pattern, cut to the measure, a walking-coat can be cut in the most ready manner.
The back is the same as a sack-jacket. We only measure from the top down to the length of open skirt A. From here add the lap for pleats; single pleats require only 1¼ inch; box pleats, according to size, 2 to 4 inches.
The side-body is cut off at a length to correspond to 2 on back, plus one-half inch, and curved up some towards side seam.
The front is made as long as the side-body, and the bottom swept from the shoulder-point. When cut it will leave the skirt in pieces as 1, 2, 3 and 4.
Now take these pieces and lay them down, closing at hip, so that the opening will be no more at bottom than at top; they lay close together at 12, 13 and 14.
Now draw along the skirt at back from 4 to 15. From 4 draw towards 5, raise one-half inch above the pattern to 10, curving pattern at front.
Put in a dart at 7. From 11 to 16 trace along the front, and also along the bottom. Add the pleat behind.
The side-body in this Figure is laid in a closing position at side, point 2, to show that the seam must have a continuous curve from 1 and 2 to the front.
The distance from 1 and 2 to 3, and from there to the front, is noted, and the skirt from 4 to 5-7 and 11 should be just the same with 1 inch more added, which is pressed in before the skirt is seamed on to the fore-part. It will be noticed that in laying the pieces of the of the skirt together they close at 14, 12 and 13, but at the top and bottom they are separated, equal distances, the cut at 7 reduces one opening, and 1 inch fullness equalizes the amount the fullness is greater at 9 and forward. The addition for single and double-breasted is made by adding on in front of the fore-part and also on to the skirt: for a single-breasted 1 inch is enough, but for a double-breasted from 2 to 3 inches is required.
Fig. 26.
FIG. 27. DOUBLE-BREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET.
Fig. 27.
Commence this by drafting on the same principle as all drafts—by the Proportionate System—by drawing line from O to F. From O go down to 11 three-fourths of an inch, and to 10 2 inches; from 11 to 10 curve the top of the back, and measure from the top of the back, at 11, to C, the length of waist 15 inches, to D 18 inches and to F the full length, 32 inches; at C, O and F draw right angle lines across. From C to the back is 1½ inch; Draw a line from 11 to 1½, and one from 1½ to F; make the width of back from 1½ to 2 inches wide. From O to B is one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches in a 36 inch breast, and A is midway between these two points; draw lines over from A and B. From B to G is one-third of breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches; from G to H is one-fourth of breast, or 4½ inches. From Y to J is one-half of breast, 18 inches; draw lines up from G, H and J, also down from J to N.
Where line A crosses line G, at M, draw another line from M to 10; raise one-half inch above M to V, and draw a curved line from 10 to V.
Commence to curve the arm-hole from V to M and H, dropping one-fourth inch below breast-line at 15.
In the centre, between M and G, begin to draw the back to 2 at waist, and from there, with a slight curve, to Z at the bottom, so that the distance from F to Z will be about equal to that from C to 2.
Go in from 2 to 3 one inch and shape the side-body from line under the arm to 3 and S, where it touches the back; make the side-body any width desired, say 2 inches to 14, the same from 3 to 4, curve the seam under the arm and spring it out below 4 to 21, to give it ease over the hips; also draw the curve for the piece under the arm from 14 to 4 and 20. From S curve up to 21, which latter point is 1½ inch above the line S-18. Point 20 is on the same level as 21, the line runs straight across to the front seam which runs down from 5. The piece under the arm is 1½ inch wide at top, from 14 to 15, and 2 inches from 4 to 5; this should be shaped somewhat like draft.
From L to I is one-sixth of the breast, 3 inches, and the same down from L to T. Curve the neck; from I to A draw a straight line, and place the length of shoulder from 10 to V on the front from I to U; shape the front of shoulder by dropping below line at U one-half inch, and raise slightly above it at 12.
Finish drawing the arm-hole from U to H, going out beyond the line H at 13 about one half inch.
Draw from T, at the front, outside of J one-half inch, thence to K at waist, going inside of front line one-fourth inch at K and N to point P at bottom.
In the middle, between J and H, locate a point for the dart, and in the centre, between this and H, fix another point for the back dart. From K to 1½, across the waist, measure the distance, taking out 1 inch between 2 and 3, which will be 16 inches; deduct the size of waist, 12 inches, from 16 inches and the remainder, 4 inches, is to be taken out in darts; therefore, put in two darts of 2 inches each. From K to 9 is 2 inches; from 9 to 8 is one dart; from 8 to 7, between the darts, is three-fourths inch; from 7 to 6 is another dart of 2 inches. About 2½ inches below the waist-line begin to draw the darts past 9, 8, 7 and 6, nearly straight down from waist-line. From 21 curve lower seam to 19, 18 and N; at N it is one-half inch below straight line.
Make the lapel straight on its inside edge, and 2 inches at waist, and 3 inches at centre of breast, in width, and shape like Figure.
To draw the skirt lay a straight-edge from 3 to S against the side-body, and draw a line to R, then curve it about one-half inch more over the hips. Regulate the length by the back. From S draw the upper edge of the skirt to within one-half inch of side-body at 21, thence to N; from N forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down; also put in two cuts on the hip, of one-half inch each, and the skirt will be right to fit the body. Should it, on measuring, be a little too wide, take the extra width off in front; whatever overlaps on the side-body will equalize the loss of the darts.
A flap can be put on over the hips. An ordinary coat-collar will suit this jacket.
FIG. 28. TRAVELING ULSTER.
Fig. 28.
A Spring and Fall garment for traveling or outdoor wear is represented by this Figure and is a reduced copy of the pattern of a 38 size breast, and can be readily enlarged by simply using inches for the numbers marked upon it. The draft is a close-fitting traveling paletot, double-breasted, and buttons down to the bottom, and has a collar which turns over, as represented by Fig. 5. This collar should be well stretched with the hot iron, at the lower edge, before it is sewed on, in order that it may cling around the neck nicely. This way of making and sewing on a collar is far superior to the usual custom of dressmakers, and is always adopted by tailors in making jackets or other ladies’ garments.
The back has at its centre, below the waist, a lap, which can be put in a box-pleat or lapped over like a coat, and at the side it has a simple pleat.
The front has a large dart cut in one piece—that is, like a sack coat, having the skirt attached to the body—but the side-body is sewed in as cut, in a separate piece. Over the hips pockets are put in covered with liberal flaps.
For use as a traveling garment it will be well to make it out of waterproof cloth, but it makes a handsome street paletot when made out of diagonal cloth or melton.
FIGS. 29 AND 30. NEWMARKET.
Fig. 29.
This style of Newmarket has only one dart. Proceed to make a full size draft in accordance with the directions. First draw a straight line O, and mark off the number of inches down from O, as given on the Figure; at these points draw lines across, and on these lines mark the number of inches as given, in like manner proceed to draw each part of the garment.
Fig. 30.
FIG. 31. RIDING-HABIT.
Fig. 31.
The demand and orders for these garments have, so far, been considerable in the leading houses, and a few hints are always seasonable, not only to those who make them for the highest fashionables, but especially to those who are located in smaller towns and who are not often called upon to make this style of garment. There are now many ladies who have a horse at their disposal, and whose chief enjoyment is in equestrian exercise, and it is quite necessary, not only for the tailor but the dressmaker, to know how a riding-habit should be cut and made. At one time it was thought impossible for anyone but a tailor to make a stylish riding-habit, but now many ladies have them made by their dressmakers.
The first thing necessary is a good measure of the form, by which a correct pattern must be cut, as a well-setting, comfortable riding-habit cannot be made without it.
The jacket has a few peculiarities:
There should be no seam down the middle of the back; the front, side-body and back are cut one inch below the natural waist.
The skirt and back form a pleat like the skirt-pleat of a coat.
The buttons should be small and round. The sleeves are tightly buttoned up at wrist.
The inside of jacket should be lined with silk, carefully wadded and stitched in close rows. It should have a belt inside, stitched to each seam at waist, which is to close it tight to the form.
The Figures we give show to advantage some of these peculiarities. The draft is a good model of such a habit, and is universally adopted, being both suitable and elegant. It “looks quite English” and very pretty. A plain standing collar of white linen should be worn with it and a gentleman’s cravat of black silk, or if the jacket is made with the lapels turning down a flat scarf is more appropriate.
We add to this an article published in “Munster’s Gazette of Fashion” on riding-habits. This will enable our readers to be more fully posted, not only on what is worn here but what is in keeping with London styles:
“We have devoted one of the plates issued with the current number of our publication to the representation of the newest and most fashionable style of a lady’s riding-habit in wear. The lengthening of the waist, which we reported last year, has been maintained, although it has not been increased; and the jacket-skirt is about the same in length. It is fastened up to the throat by buttons and holes, and with a small stand-collar rounded off at the front. The jacket-skirt is cut in one piece instead of two, as heretofore, and at front runs off at an angle from the bottom of the front edge of the fore-part, and is lined with cloth, or interlined with some article of substance, to give it a firmness. The edges of the back skirts terminate in a point at the bottom. A small square tab, with two holes in it, is sewn across under the bottom of the back, and is fastened on to two buttons sewn on the top of the back part of train. The edges are usually trimmed with a narrow silk braid, sewn on flat, and the body and the sleeves lined with light colored silk. Ball buttons and fancy silk buttons are generally used. Five or six buttons are sewn on at the hind-arm; the two lower holes only are worked open.
Some ladies affect a certain tone of severity in their riding-habits, and eschewing all fictitious aids by way of adornment to the bodies have made them perfectly plain, with the edges turned in and stitched, and smoked pearl or vegetable ivory shank buttons.
Veils are no longer considered correct, no doubt because they may be considered too effeminate in character and out of place with the “billy-cock” hat.
The train, as now worn, is only cut a few inches longer than the walking length. It is turned up at the bottom, with a narrow hem only, and the V’s taken out at the seams are covered with ribbon.
Colored habits are being worn in rich shades of brown, olive and green—not too light. Blue and black are also worn. The small diagonal elastic coating and Venetian cloth are preferred on account of their making up so satisfactorily. Dress meltons and tweeds are also worn, but the makes are not so appropriate.
One inevitable consequence of short and scanty trains is the necessity for every lady, taking equestrian exercise, to wear riding trousers. They are usually made of the same cloth as the habit, with a fly-front open to leg-seam, or with a long opening at each side-seam and a button and button-hole in the centre, and a narrow strap at bottom.”
In order to produce Figure 31 use inches for all numbers on the draft. But in drafting it to measure use the same principle as laid down for waists, and lengthen the skirt as on Figure 7 and draw the skirt like that on last Figure.
FIG. 32. CIRCULAR.
Draw lines O-5 and O-J. From O to J is one-fourth of breast. From O to H is one-third of breast. Lay the pattern of the back against H and 1½ inch inside of line at the waist. Lay also the pattern of the front against the shoulder of the back near F and touching front-line at J. Draw along the top of the back from H to 1, and add to the pattern at 1, for seams, one-half inch. Draw from 1 to F and from 2, on the front shoulder, to F. From J, along the front of the body-pattern, draw a straight line to 4. Now from 1 and 2 draw a line and make a point in the centre at 3. Apply the length from H to 5 for full length of what the garment should be, and using point 3 as a pivot sweep from 5 to the front for the lower or bottom edge; then square the bottom at 5, and in front at 4, as shown in the Figure.
Fig. 32.
If a seam is wanted draw a line through the centre from F and take out about 3 inches at bottom, starting from 6 to 7 and 6 to 8.
For a close back, curve from H along the back to 1½ and thence to 5 at bottom.
FIGS. 33 AND 34. RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.
In making a pattern of this garment we first draw a line on the edge of paper and make a point on the right end, as O. From O down place three-fourths of an inch. From O to I is one-half of breast measure, or 9 inches, for a 36 size. Between O and I is J. H and I are at right angles with first back-line. From I over on the line place one-third of breast, equal to 6 inches, and add 1 inch, making in all 7 inches, and draw a line up to 5. Next, from O on top line place 2 or 2½ inches and curve from ¾ to 2½.