In Italy, many years ago, there originated the pretty household art of making small objects from metal strips bent into graceful curves and scrolls, and then banded together. During the past few years American and English boys have taken up this Venetian and Florentine metal-work, and to-day the materials may be purchased at hardware stores in all the large cities.
The tools required are a pair of flat and a pair of round-nosed pliers, or pincers, a pair of heavy shears, and a pair of wire-cutters; a small bench-vise will also be useful.
The materials include a few sheets of thin stove-pipe iron of good quality (it may be purchased from a tinsmith), several yards of fine, soft iron wire, and some heavier wire for framework.
From the sheets of iron narrow strips are to be cut with the shears, and for ordinary work they should be not more than three-sixteenths of an inch in width; for heavier or lighter work the width may be varied. If it is possible to obtain the prepared strips at a hardware store, it will be better than making them at home, since it is a tiresome task to cut many of the strips from sheet-iron. Soft, thin iron that will bend easily is the only kind that is of use, as the hard or brittle iron breaks off and it is impossible to bend it into uniform or even scrolls.
A little patience and perseverance will be necessary at first until the knack of forming scrolls has been mastered, but once learned it will then be an easy matter to make many pretty and useful objects.
A Lamp-screen
An attractive design for a lamp-screen is shown in Fig. 1 A. When completed and backed with some pretty material it will be found a useful little affair to hang against the shade of a lamp to shield one’s eyes from the direct rays of a bright light.
To begin with, form a square of six inches, and at the top where the ends meet make a lap-joint by allowing one end to project over the other; then bind them together with some very fine wire—about the size that florists use. Inside of this square make a circle six inches in diameter, and wire it fast to the square where the sides, bottom, and top touch it.
Bend four small circles, and fasten one in each of the four angular corners between the circle and square; then form the centre scrolls and the hoop in the middle of the screen.
To form a scroll like that shown in Fig. 1 bend a strip of metal in the form of a U, as shown in Fig. 2, and with the round-nosed pair of pliers begin to curl one end in, as shown in Fig. 3. When it has been rolled far enough in to form one side of the scroll, it will appear as shown in Fig. 4. By treating the other end in a similar manner the finished result will be a perfect scroll like Fig. 1. Four of these scrolls are to be made and banded to the circle and to each other, and in the centre the hoop must be made fast with little metal bands.
Fig. 1. Fig. 1 A. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. Fig. 4. Fig. 5. Fig. 6. Fig. 7.
When uniting or binding two strips of metal together they may be fastened with wire or bands, as a matter of choice. If the latter mode is employed, short pieces of the metal strips are to be cut and partially bent in the form of a clamp, as shown in Fig. 5. Bring the two sides together and bend one ear of the clamp over them (Fig. 6), and if the other ear is the proper length, bend that down in place, and squeeze all together with the flat-nosed pair of pincers. The perfect joint will then appear as shown in Fig. 7. When using metal clamps the ears should be of such a length that, when pressed down over the united strips of metal, the ends will just come together and not overlap.
Having made the body part of the screen, form the scrolls of the top, and bind them in place with wire or the little metal clamps. This top should measure some three inches high from the top rib of the screen, and the end scrolls should project about three-quarters of an inch beyond the body of the screen at either side.
For the sides and bottom form a frill of metal and fasten it to the screen with wire; it should not be more than three-eighths or half an inch in width, and can be bent with the round-nosed pincers and the fingers. Better wear gloves for this part of the work.
When the metal-work is finished it will be necessary to coat it with black paint to improve its appearance and prevent its rusting. There are several good paints that may be used for this purpose, but if they are not easy to obtain an excellent coating may be made by dissolving a little shellac in alcohol and adding dry lamp-black so it will be about the consistency of cream. It should be applied to the metal with a soft brush, and if it should become too thick it may be thinned by adding alcohol.
Two thin coats will be all that are required for ordinary purposes, but if the metal-work is exposed to the weather, or any dampness that might cause it to rust, a coat of red lead should be applied next the iron. Red lead can be mixed with boiled linseed-oil to make a good metal paint.
A backing of some pretty, light-colored silk is required to complete the screen, using one, two, or three thicknesses to properly shield the light. The backing should be attached to the grille, or framework, with black silk, and it may be cut to fit either the round or square portion of the framework. The stitches should be close together, to prevent the goods drawing away from the metal ribs.
Pattern-making
When constructing any piece of grille-work it is always best to have a full-sized drawing to work over. For example, it is a simple matter to lay out the plan for Fig. 1 A, and you may proceed as follows: Pin to a lap-board a smooth piece of heavy brown paper, and with a soft pencil draw a six-inch square. Inside this describe, with a compass, a six-inch circle; then draw the four corner circles, and divide the larger Circle into quarters. In each of these quarters draw, in free-hand, the scroll shown in Fig. 1 A. The top is to be drawn in free-hand, but if it is difficult to get both sides alike you may first draw one side; then double the paper, and transfer the design by rubbing the back of the paper. It will then be found an easy matter to bend and fit the scrolls, since each member may be accurately shaped to conform to the lines, and afterwards banded together.
A Standard Screen
For a standard screen in the shape of a banner the design shown in Fig. 1 A may be used, leaving off the top ornament, and suspending it from the upper end of a supported stick with cord or wires, as shown in Fig. 8.
The stick should be about eighteen inches high, and the scroll feet should stand seven inches and a half up from the bottom. At the widest part they should measure six inches across, and there should be four of these feet to constitute a stable base. At the top of the stick (which should be about one-quarter of an inch square) a scroll and a hook will serve to support the screen. In a library or sitting-room, where one large lamp is used to read by, one or two banner-screens will keep the strong light from the eyes and the heat from the head without cutting off the needed illumination from the book or work in hand.
A Candlestick
The illustration shown in Fig. 9 gives a pleasing pattern for a small-based candlestick.
A STANDARD SCREEN AND A CANDLESTICK
Fig. 8. Fig. 9. Fig. 10.
To begin with, secure an old tin or brass candlestick and rip off the bottom, leaving only the sheath and collar at the top. Have a tinsmith cut the lower end away, leaving about two inches of the top, and solder a bottom in it. Cut a pine stick about four inches long and not more than three-sixteenths of an inch square, or the same thickness as the width of the metal strips from which the scrolls are to be formed. Punch a small hole in the bottom of the socket, and drive a slim steel-wire nail down through it and into the middle of one end of the stick, so that the attached pieces will appear as shown in Fig. 10. The socket will hold a candle, and the stick will act as a centre staff against which the four scroll sides are to be fastened.
A paper pattern should be used over which to bend the scrolls, and across the bottom they should measure four and a half inches, and five or six inches high. To the upper part of one side-scroll a handle should be shaped and fastened, as shown in Fig. 9.
A Candelabra
The design for a four-armed candelabra to hold five candles is shown in Fig. 11.
Cut two sticks a quarter of an inch square and ten inches long, another one thirteen inches long, and a short piece two inches long. At the middle of the ten-inch lengths cut laps, as shown in Fig. 12, and bore a hole through the centre and into an end of the long stick. Drive a slim nail down into the hole at the end of the stick, as shown in Fig. 13, and over it place the cross-arms, as shown in Fig. 14. In one end of the short stick bore a hole, snug it over the top of the nail, and drive it down so that it will fit securely on top of the cross-sticks. The completed union will have the appearance of Fig. 15, and to this wood frame the scroll and ornamental work is to be attached.
A CANDELABRA
Fig. 11. Fig. 12. Fig. 13. Fig. 14. Fig. 15. Fig. 16.
Lay out the plan of one side on paper, making the distance from the stick to outer edge of the foot about four and a half inches. At the narrowest place, near the top, the side should measure one and three-quarter inches in width. The scrolls should be securely bound to the wood frame with wire, and for candle sockets five six-pointed stars should be cut from the pattern given in Fig. 16. They should be two and a half inches in diameter, and bent to receive a standard-sized candle. A small screw passed through a hole in the centre will fasten them to the wood arms, and when placing them the wood should extend entirely under each socket, as may be seen in Fig. 11.
Canopy shades and holders should be made or purchased, and when complete with candles and shades this candelabra should present a very pleasing appearance.
A Fairy Lamp
It will be found quite a simple matter to make a fairy lamp similar to the one shown in Fig. 17.
The bracket should be twelve inches high and five inches wide from the back stick to the end of the projecting arm, on the end of which the suspending hook is located. The arm should be placed about three inches from the top, and both the arm and the upright are to be of wood one-quarter of an inch square. It would be well to make a pattern of the scroll-work over which to bend the metal in true shape.
The scrolls should be securely bound to the wood ribs with wire instead of metal clamps, since the weight of the candle-sconce would have a tendency to open the clamps and weaken the support.
For the lamp part, it will be necessary to have the socket of a candlestick arranged as described for the candlestick in Fig. 9. The stick at the bottom should be one and a half inches in length. Against this the scroll-work is attached. Each side should measure two and a half inches long and three inches high from the place where the suspension-wire is attached to the bottom, where the pendants are fastened. The four scrolls must be securely bound to the socket and stick with wire, and from a screw-eye driven in the lower end of the centre stick three drops, or pendants, may be hung. These pendants are in the shape of bell-flowers, and may be of any size, cut from the diagram shown in Fig. 18. They should be strung on a wire having a knot made in it wherever it is desired to place a flower.
From the scroll ends of each side-grille a wire is fastened and carried up to a ring that hangs on the arm-hook. These wires form a light and graceful mode of suspension, and near the upper end a canopy shade can be made fast. Pink red, orange, light-green, or electric-blue candles and shades always look well with the black iron-work of the bracket and sconce.
A Burned-match Holder
Fig. 19 gives a design for a small receptacle to be used for burned matches or other small waste scraps.
Notice that the drawing shows but one side of a three or four sided affair. The outside frame should measure about three inches across at the top, two inches at the bottom, and two and a half inches high.
Small hooks should be fastened to each upper corner. From them small chains extend up to a single ring that may be of wire; or a small iron harness-ring may be employed for the purpose.
The three or four sides forming the receptacle are to be securely bound together with wire, and for a bottom a thin piece of wood or a sheet of light metal can be sewed in with wire. Whether the bottom is of metal or wood, it will be necessary to make small holes around the edge through which the fine wire can be passed. The wire should be caught around the bottom ribs of the sides, and manipulated in much the same manner that cloth is attached with needle and thread.
Each side should be backed with silk or other pretty material, and to prevent burning or blackening from match ends the entire receptacle may be relined with card-board, tin-foil, or asbestos paper.
The links forming the chain are made of very narrow strips of the metal. Fig. 19 A shows the construction of the centre, and B that of one side. Two of the latter are to be made for each link and banded to the centre, so that a finished link will appear like C in Fig. 19. The links should be connected with little wire rings, or small brass rings may be purchased at a hardware store. The latter, when painted black, will appear as if made of iron.
Fig. 17. Fig. 18. Fig. 19.
This same design can be carried out on a larger scale, and adapted as a hanging jardinière in which a potted vine may be placed. If employed for that purpose, an outlet for the water must be provided in the bottom. Instead of using a clay flower-pot, it would be well to have a tinsmith make a zinc inner box, with a small pipe through the bottom to convey the waste water into a small cup that may be suspended underneath. As the proportions of the box are enlarged, the links of the chain must be made larger and stronger, so that the chain will be heavy enough to support the weight; and instead of using wire or brass rings, it would be advisable to employ small iron harness-rings.
A Photograph-frame
Among the many pretty little objects that can be made from thin metal strips, frames for small pictures are always serviceable and attractive (Fig. 20). Black is not always a desirable color for a frame, and there are several good enamel paints on sale. They may be procured in almost any light shade, such as pink, blue, green, brown, and the pale yellows or cream colors. Several successive thin coats of these enamel paints will give the iron scrolls a pretty finish.
It is hardly necessary to lay down a size for this frame, as it can readily be adapted to any photograph or small picture. The proportions, however, should be followed as closely as possible, so that the design will work out about as shown in the drawing.
This frame may be hung against the wall, or arranged as an easel for a table, mantel-shelf, or wall-bracket. If the latter scheme is preferred, a support may be made from narrow metal strips and attached to the back of the frame with wire. This support should be of the design shown in Fig. 20 A; it is attached by the top cross-bar to the back of the frame. This cross-bar is of round iron, and the projecting ends are to be caught with wire loops, which will allow the back leg to act as if arranged on a hinge. To prevent it from going too far back, a wire or string at the bottom will hold it the proper distance from the frame.
Fig. 20. Fig. 20 A. Fig. 21. Fig. 22. Fig. 23.
The frame proper is made from a strip of metal half an inch wide, and bent in angular form, showing less than quarter of an inch on each side of an L. In the strip cut angle-notches with a pair of shears, as shown in Fig. 21, thus forming the corners. The notches should be made half-way across the width of the metal, so that the point of each angle will just reach the middle of a strip. With a flat-nosed pair of pliers bend the strip in the form of the oblong, so that each corner will appear like Fig. 22. Join the frame at the bottom, allowing the metal to lap over an inch at the ends, and make the union by punching little holes and passing through small copper tacks that can be clinched or riveted.
With a small bench-vise and a hammer, or with two pairs of pliers, grasp the strip forming the frame and bend it in the shape of an L all around, as shown in Fig. 23, taking care to match the edges of each notch so that they will form a mitre, as shown also in Fig. 23. Where the scrolls are attached to the side of this frame, they may be held in place by small copper tacks passed through holes made in both scrolls and frame and riveted.
A Handkerchief-box
One of the most interesting branches of the light strap metal-work is in making boxes of all shapes and sizes. The variety of designs that can be employed is practically inexhaustible, but certain general principles should be observed. For instance, a box to hold matches should be of small and neat design, while in a larger box the ornament may be more open and bolder, and the strips from which it is made should be heavier and stronger.
A handkerchief-box fashioned after the design shown in Fig. 24 is a pretty as well as a useful article for a bureau or dressing-table. A is the pattern for the top, and B represents one of the sides.
It should measure eight or ten inches square and three inches deep, or larger if desired, and the frame should be of wire or wood. If wood is employed, sticks three-sixteenths of an inch square must be lap-jointed at the angles, as shown in Fig. 25, and the union made with glue and screws or fine steel-wire nails.
Fig. 24 A. Fig. 24 B. Fig. 25. Fig. 26. Fig. 27.
If the box should be made of brass scrolls, it would be well to obtain some brass rods about one-eighth or three-sixteenths of an inch square, and bend them to form the framework. Where the ends meet, lap-joints should be cut and wired.
If the brass should be too hard to bend in a vise without breaking, the part it is desired to work should be heated over a spirit-lamp or in a gas flame for a moment or two; when cool, it will be soft and pliable. If brass should be employed for the frame, the joints must be soldered instead of wired. To solder them it will be necessary to have some soldering solution, a spirit-lamp, and some wire solder.
To unite the metal ends apply some of the soldering solution to the parts with a piece of wood or an old camel’s-hair brush, and then hold them over, or in the lamp flame, until they are quite hot. When sufficiently heated touch them with the end of a piece of solder, and the heat of the metal will instantly melt the solder, so that it will adhere to the brass. To hold the parts together while they are being soldered, give them a turn or two of fine iron wire. After they have been united and the brass is cold, the wire may be removed and the rough parts of the solder filed away.
Small brass hinges may be screwed fast to the wood ribs to attach the lid to the box, and if brass is employed for the frame and grille work the hinges must be soldered to the frame.
A Sign-board
For a sign-board an idea is suggested in Fig. 26. At one’s place of business, in front of a cottage, or on a mile-post, it may be displayed to good advantage.
It is only a board on which sheet-iron or lead letters have been fastened, and the edges bound with metal and large-headed nails. A rod set at right angles to a post supports the sign-board, and to ornament it some scroll-work is attached at the top. Scroll ornaments decorate the sides and bottom of the board. These are fastened on with steel-wire nails driven through holes made in the metal and into the edges of the board. The ornamental scroll-work should be made of somewhat thicker and wider iron strips than the more delicate articles for indoor use, and all the iron should be given one or two coats of red-lead paint before the black finish is applied. To prevent rust-marks from running down on the wood board, it is necessary to coat the back part of the letters and all iron straps which may lie against the wood. It is much better to use sheet-lead for the letters, since it cuts easier, and will not stain the wood with rust or corrosion marks.
Double Doorway Grille
For a double doorway a pretty effect is shown in Fig. 27, where a long grille is arranged at the top of a doorway, and under it the curtain-pole is attached.
The outer frame for a grille of this size should be made by a blacksmith from an iron rod about three-eighths of an inch square. The inner frame may be made of strip-iron three-eighths of an inch wide, and three inches smaller all around than the larger one. The metal strips employed to form the grille design should be three-eighths of an inch wide, and cut from box strap-iron.
The full-size drawing should be laid out on paper, over which it will be an easy matter to shape the scrolls. If the grille should be too open when the pattern is completed, some more scrolls may be added to fill the spaces, taking care not to injure the general design of the pattern.
The grille may be anchored to the wood-work of the casing with steel-wire nails or staples, and several coats of black should be given the iron to finish it nicely.
A Moorish Lantern
Having gained by experience the knowledge and art of working in strip-metal, and after successfully making a number of the smaller objects already described, it is perhaps time to undertake the construction of something larger and more elaborate.
As an example of such work, a very beautiful design for a Moorish lantern is shown in Fig. 28. It is not a difficult piece of work, nor is it beyond the ability of any smart boy, but it must not be attempted before a thorough knowledge of forming frames and scrolls and of pattern drawing has been gained through experience in making more simple objects.
In size this lantern is not limited, and it may be made from twelve to thirty-six inches high, not including the suspension chain and rings and the drop of flower-pendants at the bottom.
For a lamp twenty inches high having six sides, each panel should be made on a wire frame. The middle panels measure six inches high, four inches wide at the top, and three inches at the bottom. The top panels are five inches across at the widest place, and the lower ones four and a half inches. One of the middle panels can be arranged to swing on hinges, in order to place a lamp within the lantern, and also to make it possible to line the inside of the lantern body with some plain silk or other material.
Fig. 28.
At the top and bottom scrolls are to be formed of the stout wire employed for the ribs or framework. Under the crown top, at the six corners, brackets may extend out for a distance of five inches, from which sconces for tapers or small candles may be hung. Or these brackets may be omitted, and in place of the hooks a small scroll may be formed at the extending ends. Each little sconce is two inches deep and two and a half inches in diameter, and in them candle-holders may be placed, over which colored glass globes will appear to good advantage. From the top of the lower lobe six arms support flower-drops four or five inches long, and from the extreme bottom a pendant of flowers finishes off the whole. No matter what size this lantern is made, the proportions should be carefully preserved, or the effect will be spoiled.
A long chain made up of links and rings may be used to suspend the lantern. Should a more secure anchorage be desired, four chains may be attached at four places on the ceiling of a room, from which anchorage they all meet at the top of the lantern.
The illustration shows the lantern in perspective, but it must be borne in mind that it has six sides, and the patterns of the six sides, of the top, middle section, and bottom are like those in the three front sections that face the reader as he looks at the drawing.