A late-19th-century eyewitness account provides a wide-ranging portrayal of a Caribbean republic, combining political and social history with on-the-ground reportage. It narrates events before and after independence, analyzes population composition and racial relations, and documents ritual religion and reported violent practices. Chapters examine government, justice, education, army and police, language and literature, and the economy, including agriculture, commerce, and finance. The narrative interweaves observations of urban destruction, emigration of skilled groups, and perceived barriers to modernization, drawing on official documents, local testimony, and the author's long residence.