Hints
TO
Young Yacht
Skippers
BY
THOMAS FLEMING DAY
Editor “The Rudder,” Author of “On Yachts and Yacht Handling,” “Songs of Sea and Sail,” Etc.
Illustrations by Warren Sheppard

NEW YORK AND LONDON
The Rudder Publishing Company
1904

Copyright 1904
BY
Thomas Fleming Day
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

THOMSON & COMPANY
PRINTERS
9 MURRAY ST., NEW YORK
U. S. A.

TO
THE OFFICERS AND MEMBERS
OF THE
SPRINGFIELD YACHT CLUB

INTRODUCTION.

This book is the response to a constant appeal for information. During the last nine years I have received thousands of letters, asking for hints on all manner of subjects relating to the care, handling, buying and equipping of small yachts. The majority of these letters came from boys and young men living throughout the world, who were just entering the sport, and who were anxious to become skillful sailors and competent skippers. I can thoroughly understand their position, and sympathize with their desire for fuller and more practical knowledge than that contained in the majority of works upon yachting.

What knowledge I possess of this art, or profession, I have gained by years of hard work and close observation, and having begun my studies when very young can testify to the dearth of literature of value to the green hand, who is looking for practical hints that will help him to become a skillful yacht sailor. Had I possessed a book like this, it would have saved me time, money and lots of hard work and anxiety.

But, in using this book, it must be remembered that a hint is not a law or a command, it is simply a concise statement for you to take, think over, and make use of, if it appears to be logical and practical. There may be better and easier ways of doing many of these things I speak of—that is for you to find out. I am an authority only as far as my knowledge goes, and no further. The basis of my authority is my years of observation and experience; your right to confute my findings can only be based on similar premises. Unless you have tried and proved that my instructions are wrong, they are still good medicine.

If a man, especially a young one, decide to go into yachting, he should also decide to learn the business of handling these craft from the keel up. It is not sufficient, as many of you think, that all that is necessary is to learn how to sail a boat about. You should know not only how to sail her, but you should know why she sails, and all about the gear and canvas used to propel her. You should learn to rig and unrig, to care for and to understand every part of her structure, both above and below decks. It is certainly a sorry spectacle to see a man sailing a yacht who cannot tie a proper knot, splice a rope, or bend a sail, and who does not know the terms used to designate parts of the structure which he essays to manage. If he is ashamed to learn, or if he is too lazy to gather such knowledge, he is out a place in a sport which is the life and joy of energetic, skillful and brave men.

I hope all of my boys the world over who are coming into yachting, and to assist whom I have written these words, will never be ashamed to learn the sailor’s trade, or be too lazy to acquire all possible knowledge relating to the art of handling vessels. You will never regret having given your time to the study. It will bring to you that which is more valuable than the treasures of the earth; something that you can never be deprived of, no matter how unlucky or how unfortunate you may be—the respect paid to the skillful by the unskillful; the deference shown to the educated by the ignorant.

It is as well to say here that these hints are not intended for men owning and sailing large yachts. Such vessels are too costly to be trusted in the hands of any men except those who are thoroughly competent; and if an owner has not sufficient skill to handle a large yacht it is his business to hire somebody who has. These hints are intended for the small-boat owner and skipper.

HINTS TO YOUNG YACHT SKIPPERS

Buying a Boat:

If you are going to buy a boat, either the first or last one, make up your mind thoroughly as to what kind of a craft you want, and what you want her for. If you want to race, it is one thing; if you want to cruise, another. Combination cruising and racing boats are impossibilities, and are neither one thing or other. If you are going to build, get a good design from some man who knows his business, and have a boat built from it in the best manner possible. A poorly or cheaply-built boat is a losing proposition. If you are going to buy a second-hand craft, and don’t know much about boats, get a man who does to look over any that you think of purchasing. An honest builder is the best man for this. Most men buy a racer for her record, and a cruiser for her cabin. The record of a racing craft is not worth a pinch of salt, unless the boat is in such condition as will enable her to uphold it, and a cabin of a cruiser is of little value unless it is surrounded by a good, seaworthy and handy outside.

Buying a Racer:

Before buying a racer, find out if she is suitable for entering in any of the classes racing in the waters you frequent. Find out what boats are likely to sail against her, what her measurement is under the rule in vogue, and how and by whom she was handled when winning or losing. These are very necessary points, if you hope to helm a winner. Many a fast boat is condemned and sold after the first season, because the man who owned it did not know how to handle her to win. Such a boat can be bought and, if properly managed, be made a winner. Others are sold because they have no earthly chance of getting a prize, no matter how well-sailed. These latter are a very bad investment.

Buying a Cruiser:

If you want a cruising boat, her record is of no consequence, unless it is irretrievably bad. If she has a habit of capsizing, or won’t go to windward, you don’t want her. If she consistently leaks, you don’t want her. If she draws a lot of water for her length, and can’t get into your harbor except at high tide, you don’t want her. If she is in bad repair, or is very old, you don’t want her. If you haven’t sufficient personal knowledge to tell by looking at her how she will handle, ask some man who has sailed her, or who has seen her sail; better ask several, and take a general average of their testimony. Then go and have her thoroughly looked over. If she is hauled out, sound her bottom. Get the owner to let a builder bore her. If the chips come out clean, white and papery, she is sound in plank. Examine the rabbet at stem and stern and all along the keel; pierce that stick, both inside and out. Sound the mast. Go below and look at the heels and heads of the frames. Don’t forget the deck, cockpit floor and staving. An experienced man can tell from the appearance of the unpainted wood whether it is sound or not. Then examine her spars, gear, blocks and sails; last of all, her cabin fittings, etc.

Buying a Boat Afloat:

This is somewhat of a lottery, but you can generally judge of the condition of a boat’s bottom by the condition of her topsides, and by inspecting the inside of the hull. If there is any water in the bilge take some up in a glass. If it is clean and fresh-smelling, you can be sure she has a regular leak. Get a quiet look at the sucker of the pump-rod. If it looks well-brightened up, it shows plenty of usage. If there is no leak, notice the heels of the frames near the mast, also the fastenings of the ends of the deck beams in that part of her. If she strains, it will show there, if anywhere. If there are doors in the bulkheads or lockers, see if they have been planed off, so as to close. If she is canvased on deck or top of cabin-house, the cloth will show if she has strained badly. All boats strain to certain extent, and without seemingly permanent harm.

Buying From Fads:

I once knew a lady who would not buy a house, because she did not like the way in which the halls between the rooms were painted. Some yachtsmen are just as bad. Last year I met a young fellow who wanted a knockabout with a white enameled cabin. He refused to take several, because they lacked this inside coating. Others will be caught by a lot of brass or gaudy cushions and curtains. Nicely varnished spars, parceled backstays and immaculate sail covers, are other and successful traps. Others will buy a boat because a friend has one like it.

Buying From Reason:

The first and most necessary thing is that the vessel’s bottom be sound; the second, that the decks be tight; the third, that the spars are in good condition. If she is right in these three points, you can find out the rest by sailing her, and in that way only. Many a good boat is condemned for some trivial cause. She may have a leak which can be easily stopped; her sails may be poor, that can be remedied; or her gear worn out. If so, give the seller a chance to make good before breaking off negotiations. Tell him what you see or think is wrong, and let him have a chance to explain or make good. Don’t go away, as many do, and blackguard a boat because it is not just in the order or condition you expected to find it.

Buying out of repair:

Sometimes a boat out of repair can be bought cheap, and is a good bargain. But, before buying, consult a builder, and find out if the craft can be repaired, and if it is worth repairing. I have found that you can generally trust a builder’s word on this question, as they dislike to work over a worthless craft. If the builder tells you she is no good, don’t touch her, no matter how cheap she is offered.

Buying through a broker:

I strongly advise young yachtsmen to buy their boats through a broker, if it is a second-hand craft. These men are up to all the tricks of the trade, and are thus able to safeguard a client’s interests. If the boat is registered, they will attend to the custom-house part of the transaction, and get the thing put through properly, besides saving you endless bother. If she is not registered, they will get you a proper bill of sale, and see that the boat has no liens or mortgages lying against her. I have known several cases where men have bought and paid for boats only to find that the vessel was mortgaged, or else somebody unknown was a part owner.

Inventory:

Be sure and get a written inventory before buying, and have it checked off before making the final payment. It is, I regret to say, a too common practice among some sellers to skin-out a boat before delivering her. Or, if this is not done, to substitute cheaper articles for the ones on board. It is also frequent for purchasers to call for things that are not on board, and which they suppose or think ought to be, and this leads to a disagreement. A written inventory will settle the question; verbal statements are worthless.

Nautical instruments, charts, etc.:

Nautical instruments, charts, books, private flags, clothes, etc., are personal belongings, and are not part of a boat’s fittings or furniture, unless so specified in the inventory. A compass is, if it belongs in a vessel’s binnacle. A dingey or other boat if used by the yacht as a tender goes with her, unless there is an agreement to the contrary. Spare spars, sails, ballast and anchors, even if stowed on shore and not used, belong to the boat, and are included in the sale, unless otherwise specified.

Boat’s name:

If a boat is registered, you cannot lawfully change her name, without the permission of the Customs. All registered vessels must have their name and port painted on them. The name of a boat is not necessarily sold with the craft, but the former owner cannot prevent you from using the old name if you wish to, unless you have made an agreement before buying not to do so; nor can he prevent you from changing the name.

Masts:

If for any reason you remove your mast, be careful to note its position, so that it can be put back again as it was before. If wedged, mark the wedges before taking them out, so you can put them back again in their proper places. The rake of a mast has frequently much to do with a boat’s good sailing.

Masts:

To remove a mast, if you have no shears convenient, place another boat with a mast as tall, or taller than yours, close alongside, and lash her fast. Then place a sling round the mast to be removed in such a position as you think the stick will balance. To this hook in the throat halyards of the assisting boat. Remove the wedges, and if the fit in the partners is tight well-grease the houseings. Then send a man in forward with a sharp-edged bar and let him pry the heel out of the step as you hoist on the halyard. Use your own halyards as guys to steady the spar. Keep the spar steady; if allowed to fall over it will very likely split the partners. You can step a mast by reversing this method.

Booms:

Booms are frequently sprung and spoiled by hauling down hard on the sheet and pulling up the lift. The boat being left at anchor, it rains; the ropes shrink, and the end of the spar is pulled up and the spar sprung out of shape. Do not set up taut on your lift if it looks like wet weather.

Rigging on racing craft:

The less running rigging you have on a racing craft the better, as a complication of tackle, lifts, sheets, etc., make it more difficult to handle sails quickly. Use as simple tackles as possible, and have as light gear as will do the work. The running rigging of a racing yacht should be constantly looked to, and at the first sign of weakness be replaced by new.

Hoops:

Hoops, to work easy, should be quite some bigger than the mast. Grease the foreside of the spar frequently, and they won’t stick when hoisting. If you don’t like grease, you can keep them from sticking by taking a piece of small line and with it linking them together by clove-hitching each one. In this way they will be kept horizontal when being hoisted. Always put on several more hoops than there are grommets for, so that if one breaks you can replace without removing your rigging.

Blocks:

Don’t buy or use cheap blocks; they are the worst investment you can make, as they will be an endless source of trouble. Don’t use blocks with sharp edges to the shell, as they will soon fray and strand your gear. It is a common practice of riggers to put on a block the swallow of which will just carry a certain sized rope; consequently, when the cordage gets wet and swells, it sticks, and the sail won’t come down. This generally happens in bad weather, when you want things to run smoothly. Always have the swallow bigger than the rope, by at least one size. For instance, if using a 12-thread rope, have the block made to carry a 15-thread.

Spinnaker pole, how to rig it for racing:

To rig a spinnaker pole for racing, when the stick is not too heavy to be lifted and handled by two men, have at the head or outboard end a band, or grommet, with three eyes, one on top and one on each side. Put snaphooks on your guys, so that all gear can be quickly removed from the pole. Have snap-hooks on both ends of your halyard. Make your halyard fast on each side in the rigging.

Spinnakers:

If you have a forehatch, after stopping the spinnaker coil it snake-fashion right under the opening. Screw a hook to the underside of the deck, where it can be readily reached, and hook the head of the sail to it then when wanted the tack man can reach it without getting up or jumping below. It is frequently necessary in order to make a quiet move to get this sail ready without your rival knowing what you are up to.

Spinnakers:

These sails are of little or no use if the boom cannot be carried square to the length; the minute they have to be guyed forward they lose their power, and it is better to take them in and use the balloon headsail. Do not haul the tack of the sail hard down; let it light up and leave an opening between the luff and the mast. Spinnakers cut with a deep roach, so as to hang below the pole, are no good. Remember, that the spinnaker is a depressing, not a lifting, sail, as many suppose, and has a tendency to force a vessel’s head down, unless the sheet is lighted up.

Spinnaker, to shift one from side to side:

If a light pole, this can be easily and quickly done. Let go the after guy and swing the pole forward; unship the heel and run the pole aft along the deck on the side you want to set it, being sure to keep it clear until the head is abaft all sheets, etc. Have the other end of the halyard ready, let go the sail, cast off one end and snap in the other end, and hoist away. While those forward are doing this the after man can carry the guy over and pass it forward outside the rigging. Then shove the pole out right ahead, ship the heel, and haul aft the guy. By being able to shift a spinnaker quickly you can frequently manage to get away from a rival who is following close in your wake and blanketing you. It is a maneuvre that should be constantly practiced by a racing crew.

Spinnaker, to set a, when rigged with a lift:

If your pole is carried aloft, lower it down by the lift, and square with the fore and after guys. Hook the clew to sheet or outhaul, and the head to the halyard, hoisting and hauling out at the same time. When in position break out. To take in, haul the foot in first and muzzle the sail before letting go the halyard.

Spinnaker pole:

As soon as you are through with the spinnaker pole, unsnap the guys and coil them up. In this way you keep them in readiness for instant use on either side, and free the pole of all incumbrance. A spinnaker pole carried on end with all its gear is a nuisance on a small boat, besides adding to the weight and windage aloft.

Crew, stations for:

In handling sails the crew should be given certain stations, and taught to keep them. Each man should be allotted a certain task, and be instructed to attend to that, and not to interfere with the others. If you have a crew of four, including yourself, your place is at the helm; the man in your watch stays with you in the cockpit, or aft, unless called forward; the mate and his watch work forward. The lightest man is the tackman. His business is to take the tack of the sails. He always works furthest forward, going out on the bowsprit to snap on jibs, etc. The mate works behind him attending to the halyards and gear about the mast.

Crew stations for getting underway:

When making sail, the mate and the tackman go to the main halyards, one taking the throat and the other the peak. The skipper and his watch look out for the lashings, crotch, sheet, and see the gaff clear of the lifts. If the boat is a yawl, they cast loose and hoist the mizzen, the mate and tackman attending in the same way to the headsails. The after guard looks after the jib sheets and backstays, the forward gang get the anchor and cat it, standing by forward until she is properly cast and underway; then they clear up decks.

Light sails, handling:

The handling of light sails is the best measure of the merits of a crew. The bungling of light canvas shows that the crew are not properly drilled, and that the skipper is a muff, or else is slack in attention to his duties. Nothing looks prettier than to see running sails handled quickly. To do this it is necessary to thoroughly drill your crew at stations, and to practice them in setting, shifting and taking in the light sails.

Crew stations for reefing:

The mate and tackman go to the halyards; the man aft stands by the peak downhaul, if necessary, after getting the sheet in. When the sail is down the skipper and his watch take the pendant, and after the tackman has tied in haul the foot of the sail out, the mate standing amidships and helping by lighting the cloth along. When properly hauled out the skipper or his man pass the clew lashing. Then all hands tie in, the mate and tackman working from the middle of the boom forward, the others aft. Then the mate and his watch hoist the sail, those aft keeping it clear of the lifts, and working the sheet.

Crew stations for setting a spinnaker:

Get the boom along on the side you want to use it, with the heel aft and the head just forward of the rigging. See that it is clear of the jib sheets. Take your after guy outside the rigging and snap it into the grommet, or eye, on the spar. Snap in the fore guy, if you use one, and place the coil in the bow. When ready, let the tackman snap the halyard to the head, being sure there are no turns in the sail; then the mate, who has the halyard, can hoist away. When the sail is up belay the halyard and snap in the clew of the sail in the grommet or eye on top of the boom, at the word “ready!” the tackman and mate seize the pole and shove it out right ahead, until the latter can ship the heel. At the order from the mate, “haul aft!” the man in the cockpit hauls on the after guy until the boom is square. The tackman stands by the fore guy and the mate seizes the tack and breaks the sail out. To take in reverse these proceedings.

Sails:

Sails, if not used, should be frequently cast adrift and aired. Light sails stowed below, either in bundles or bags, should be attended to in this manner. It is best to have your headsails fitted with snaphooks, so they can be taken off and stowed below.

Sails:

Sails are not made of iron; neither are they made of rubber. Canvas, especially when new, should be treated with gentleness. It is very easy to spoil a sail. More bad sails are made by yachtsmen than by sailmakers. When bending a new sail haul it out along the spar hand-taut and lash it. Then let the wind stretch it out, you taking up the slack day by day. As it comes, you can put more strain on it until it reaches its proper place. In damp weather, ease it in at the head and foot.

Sails:

When measuring your boat for a suit of sails, do not try to put on every inch the spars will carry. Leave plenty of drift between the hoist and the block and a good length at the end of each spar. This will give you a chance to properly stretch your canvas. The foot of all sails should be kept well up off the deck, so as to allow plenty of room for the wind to escape from under them. Also, keep the leach of the headsail away from the mast. Sails should never be made to lap if it is possible to sheet them without doing so.

Sails:

Take the same care of your sails as you do of your best suit of clothes. When you get a new suit, you don’t start in by stretching the back of the coat, and by pulling like mad on the legs of the trousers. Canvas is woven just as cloth is. When you put your clothes away you don’t roll them up in a tight ball and leave them in a damp place for days at a time. Remember this.

Hoisting sails:

The luff of a mainsail should be pulled on until it is taut, but it should never be sweated until the bolt-rope is nigh to parting. The peak should be hoisted until the proper draft appears in the luff. In light airs a better draft will be had by slacking both peak and luff and by hauling up the weather lift, so as to take the weight of the boom off the canvas. The lighter the wind the more baggy your sail wants to be.

Stowing sails:

If you are not going to stay on board, do not stow your sails in tight rolls; make up loosely and tie well; but be sure that the air can get at the canvas. It is the weather, not work, that wears out sails.

Sail covers:

Sail covers are the sailmaker’s best friend. They destroy more sails than any other one thing. If a boat has a crew always on board, or someone constantly near to look after the canvas, they are very useful contrivances, but should never be left over sails for days at a time; the moisture collects under them and rots the cloth.

Storm jibs:

Storm jibs, as shown in most sail plans, are altogether too small, and are of no use whatever. When a sail of that size would be any good it would be blowing too hard to use any canvas forward of the mast. A storm jib wants to be big enough to give the boat some life. To do this it must have a pull to it. They should be roped heavily, and have good strong clew pieces and irons. The only way to set them is flying.

Shifting jibs in heavy weather:

If you have to shift jibs in a blow, with a heavy sea running, it is an extremely difficult and sometimes dangerous job. The jib you are going to set should be stopped up, as it is much easier to handle in that form. In getting in a jib at such times be very careful about how you slack off the sheet, as men are frequently knocked off a spar or hurt by the sheet being let fly while they are on the bowsprit. Don’t have any more men forward than are actually needed to shift the sails, as their weight will depress the boat’s head and make it wet working.

Coils of gear:

If your running gear is stowed around the mast when underway in bad weather, it is a good plan to trice the coils up in the rigging. Here it will not get washed loose and tangled up, and can be readily found and handled. Gear in the coil should always be kept clear for running; nothing looks worse, or is worse, than a mess of halyards lying about a boat’s deck or cockpit. Teach your crew to always coil down the gear at once, and to always turn the coil over, so that it will run clear when let go.

Running gear:

The ends of all halyards, sheets and lifts should be made fast, if you are going to sail at night, or in rough weather, as they are liable to get adrift and cause a lot of trouble before being recovered. Frequently, when letting the sail run in a hurry, the halyards will bunch and go aloft; if the end is fast you can easily recover them. The readiest way to make the end fast is to open the strands and pass the pin or cleat through the rope.

Running rigging:

The length of life of your running rigging can be increased by turning the rope end-for-end, thus bringing a new part to work in the blocks. Sheets are apt to wear and strand where they play in the block when the boat is close-hauled.

Jib sheets:

If your jib sheets are rove double bring both ends aft and join them behind the cockpit; then the hauling part will not get away from you, and can always be found, even in the darkest night. Another way is to bore a hole in the cockpit rail, pass the end through and knot it.

Peak downhaul:

In heavy weather always bend a peak downhaul. Take a long enough piece of good flexible manila and splice an eye in it. Put this eye over the end of spar, and make the loose end fast to a lower hoop, or on the pin rail. With this downhaul you can control the gaff and get the peak down, no matter how hard it blows.

Mainsail hoisting on track:

Sails having their luff running on a track up the mast will frequently stick, despite the assurances of the inventor and vendor of these patent devices. To insure working, keep the track well-greased, and let go the throat halyards before you do the peak, always keeping the gaff at a high angle while lowering down. In this way the weight of the gaff will force the slides down the track.

Reefing at night:

If sailing at night, and it looks at all like bad weather coming, get in a reef in your large sail before dark, as you can do it then quickly and properly. If suddenly struck by a heavy wind you will have your boat better prepared to meet it.

Reefing:

If you carry an amateur crew you should constantly practice them at reefing. Give each man his station, and teach him to keep it, and not interfere with the work of the others. It is a good plan when sailing on a breezy day to reef and shake out several times, as this will give your crew practice. A well-trained crew will reef a mainsail of a small yacht in less time than it takes to write this.

Tacks for reefing:

Always keep a tack in your sail at each reef band. Take a short piece of small rope, whip both ends, pass this through the cringle, making each end the same length, then open the rope just under the cringle and pass the other part through it. Your tack will stay there and always be ready to tie down.

Pendants for reefing:

These should always be kept rove, if the end of the boom is outboard. If the sail is a small one, put a snap-hook on the end that goes in the cringle, but do not trust hooks if the sail is heavy; splice your rope in.

Reefing:

When reefing a boom sail, before lying along make sure that the mainsheet is fast, so that it cannot slip, as this happening is likely to throw you overside. If the boat is rolling badly it is best to secure the boom with a lashing from each side to hold it steady, as this will make reefing easier.

Reefing:

In a heavy seaway it is easier and handier to reef with all the sail down and the boat running broad off, as she will go along steady. It is very difficult to reef a boat when in the trough of the sea.

Reefing:

When hauling out the foot of your sail to reef do not pull it out too hard, especially if it is liable to get wet from rain or sea, as the cloth will shrink and pull the leach out of shape. Be sure and pass a good lashing around the pendant close to the cringle and, if there is room, through it. Don’t haul out on your pendant until the tack is tied in.

Reef, shaking out a:

Set up on your lift. Cast off the points, beginning in the middle and working both ways. Then cast off the tack and clew-cringle lashing; then the pendant. Be sure all the points are loose before hoisting, as you are liable to tear the sail if one is fast.

Reefing before starting:

Before leaving harbor, if it looks breezy outside, tie in a reef, or reefs. When outside, and you can feel the weight of wind, you can then judge whether to carry more sail or not. If close-reefing, tie in number one and then number two over it. This will enable you to shake out one reef at a time.

Running off:

When running off in heavy weather, if you have a jib keep it on her and haul it dead flat; then if she attempts to broach the wind hitting in the jib will drive her head off again. All boats going where winds are likely to be heavy should carry a small, strong headsail to use for this purpose.

Running off in a seaway:

Keep your boom topped up, so that it is clear of the sea when she rolls to leeward. Don’t give the sail too much sheet, as you will find that she will steer better if the boom is at a smaller angle, and be less likely to be broken or to damage the rigging.

Mainsheet:

Always keep a knot in the end of your mainsheet, or else make it fast. If the end gets away you will have trouble.

Jibing a mainsail:

The only safe way to jibe in a breeze is to lower the peak and top up the boom, before getting the sail over. In ordinary airs you can jibe a boat if you pay attention to the helm, and get the sheet down flat. Let her come easy. If forced to jibe all standing with the sheet off, just as soon as the boom comes over put your helm, hard the other way, so as to throw the boat round, and get the wind back of the sail. This will break the force and save the knockdown, but is liable to break the boom. If fitted with backstays, look out for them.

Wearing a yawl:

Slack off the mizzen sheet, if that sail is set; haul your jib a-weather; flatten the mainsheet; put the helm up and let her come round slowly, easing off the mainsail as she pays off.

Steering a yawl:

Going with a strong current or tide through a channel, when there is no wind, you can steer a yawl by taking hold of the mizzen boom and working that sail from side to side. When beating to windward in a light breeze, with a strong tide under the lee, hauling the mizzen to windward will help a yawl considerably, especially if she is at all slack-headed.

Jibing a yawl:

Haul your mizzen if set fairly flat; slack the lee jib sheet and haul in the weather at the same time, until this sail is properly trimmed. Get your mainsheet aft gradually. Put the helm up slowly, and if the mizzen is set jibe that first, then the mainsail. The reason for trimming the jib and mizzen is this: If when the mainsail comes over she knocks down the other two sails will shoot her up in the wind, and give you a chance to shoot her out. If the mizzen it not set, light your jib sheets sufficiently to allow her to come up.

Coming to at a dock:

If you have to come to at a dock or pier on the windward side, go well to windward of it, lower your sail, and steer straight for it. Have an anchor and warp ready aft, and when close enough to reach let go your anchor and pay out, checking her way as you near the structure.

Lying at a dock or pier:

It is always best to lie head or stern on to a dock if you intend to remain long or over night. Always run out an anchor to hold her off in case the wind shifts, or if for any reason you have to haul out. In making your head fast be sure to allow length enough, if in a tidal harbor, or you will be hung up when the water falls.

Clubbing:

This is one way of getting down a narrow fairway when a swift current is going with you. By employing it you will be able to keep off the banks and to dodge anchored vessels. Send a man forward and let him heave in on the anchor until it breaks, then let him keep it trailing along the bottom, checking the vessel whenever needed, by paying out enough slack cable to make the hook bite. The skipper at the helm can then shear her with the rudder to port or starboard, as he wishes. The current moving faster than the boat will give her steerageway. Instead of an anchor you can use a heavy chain to drag along the bottom.

Sailing in a current:

If bucking a strong tide or current a vessel will answer to the slightest touch of the helm, but if going with the stream she will steer slowly and badly. This must be looked out for in running narrow entrances between jetties and bars. Sometimes it is better to go out stern first, if the wind is blowing directly in, letting the vessel sail slowly before the wind and drop back faster with the tide.

Sailing against current:

In going against a strong current to windward you can force a vessel through, no matter how strong the tide is, if you can lay up close enough to get the wind on one bow and the tide on the other. The pressure of opposing forces will drive the vessel ahead. You will often see schooners get through the Long Island Sound Race in this way against a strong ebb, running over 5 knots.