HOME LABOR SAVING
DEVICES
CHAPTER I
KITCHEN CONVENIENCES
VEGETABLE PARING TABLE
A convenient kitchen table made of poplar and covered with zinc with an opening in the center through which the parings of vegetables or the scraping of dishes may be put into a pail sitting on the lower shelf. This saves soiling the floor and many steps while preparing the vegetables for cooking. It should be remembered that the pail underneath must be removed and the contents emptied into the garbage barrel after each using. It is not a garbage pail and should in no sense be used as such. Above the table hooks on which hang many smaller cooking utensils, such as paring knives, graters, spoons, scissors, or can openers, are all arranged to accommodate the housekeeper.
Materials:
- 12’ poplar.
- ¼ lb. 6-penny nails to construct table.
- 1 piece of sheet zinc, 12” × 30”, to cover the top of table.
Dimensions:
- Top: 1 piece 1” thick × 18” wide × 26” long.
- Shelf: 1 piece 1” thick × 10” wide × 32” long.
- Legs: 4 pieces 1½” thick × 1½” wide × 24” long.
- Cleats: 4 pieces 1” thick × 1” wide × 14” long.
Directions:
After cutting legs, nail on cleats even with the top edge, measuring 14” for the bottom cleat. Measure 2” from the ends and sides of the top and nail on the legs. Measure 7¾” from the right-hand end and 9” from the side and make a hole 8” in diameter. Nail the bottom shelf at an equal distance from the bottom of the legs.
WALL CABINET FOR THE KITCHEN
(Made from Dry Goods Boxes)
A comfort to the housewife is a kitchen cabinet, containing different compartments for spices and such accessories necessary in cooking. It is made of boxes and should be put at some place convenient to the work table so the woman will not have to move to get these things when preparing a meal. It surely fulfils the old adage, “A place for everything and everything in its place.”
Materials:
- 1 box of the required dimensions to build the body.
- 12 salt boxes used as drawers in the compartments.
- ⅓ lb. 8-penny nails to be used in the construction of the cabinet.
- 12 round-head screws to be used as knobs.
- Sandpaper and stain.
Dimensions:
- Body: 1 box 4¾” deep × 13¼” wide × 18¼” long.
- Shelves: 4 pieces ⅜” thick × 4¾” wide × 12¼” long.
- Drawers: 12 salt boxes, 4” × 4” × 4”.
Directions:
Remove the sides from the box, making them the exact length of the inside of the box. Draw a line across the bottom and the ends of the box about 2” from the edge of the sides. Nail the sides to the bottom and the ends of the box about 2” from the edge of the sides, with outside faces on pencil line. Plane and sandpaper the edges until they are smooth. Nail the shelves in at equal distances apart to make four compartments of equal size. Place three of the salt boxes in each compartment. Sandpaper, stain, and polish.
IRONING BOARD
This ironing board is a very great step saver. It is always ready and in place. It is fastened to the wall at the most convenient place and adjusted to suit the one who is to use it. When not in use it can be folded up and hinged against the wall out of the way. The leg is hinged to the ironing board and falls into position when the board is lifted. Skirts may be easily ironed without changing the position of the leg.
Materials:
- 8’ of pine.
- 3 3” plain steel (butt) hinges.
- 2½ doz. 1½” No. 12 flat-head screws.
- 2 yds. of white cotton flannel.
- 2½ yds. unbleached muslin.
- 2 pieces of cotton tape.
Dimensions:
- 1 piece 1” thick × 14” wide × 3’ long to be used as top of board.
- 1 piece 1” thick × 4” wide × 10” long to be used as a board strip.
- 2 pieces 1” thick × 2” wide × 4” long to be fastened to the wall to hold the board in position.
- 1 piece 1” thick × 4” wide × 14” long to be used as a wall strip.
- 1 piece 1” thick × 4” wide × 4’ long to be used as brace for board.
- 1 piece 1” thick × 4” wide × 8” long to be used as brace support.
Directions:
Plane the top of the board (1” × 14” × 3’) on the smoothest side. With a radius of 4½” lay out a semi-circle at the middle of one end of the board as shown in illustration. This may be done with a compass or with a string and pencil. Make the other end of the board square with one edge. Two feet from each end make a mark on each edge and draw a straight line from each of these marks tangent to the semi-circle. Saw along these lines, smoothing the edges with the plane. Fasten the wall strip (1” × 4” × 14”) to this top with 2 No. 3 (butt) hinges. Bore 3 ¼” holes through the board strip (1” × 4” × 10”) and fasten it to the bottom of the top at a distance of 34” from the wall strip. The brace (1” × 4” × 4’) is fastened to the board strip with one No. 3 (butt) hinge. ¾” holes are bored through the wall strip and it is fastened at a convenient height to the wall with 3 flat-head screws. After boring 3 ½” holes through the brace support (1” × 4” × 8”) it is screwed to the wall with 3 flat-head screws. Place this support directly below the wall strip and at such a distance from it to make the board level when the brace is in position. Bore 2 ¼” holes in one of the pieces measuring 1” × 2” × 4”, and one hole through the other piece. Fold the board up against the wall and fasten the piece with the two holes to the wall just a little to one side of the board and 2’ above the wall strip. The other piece with one hole is fastened to this piece to hold the ironing board in position.
The covering may be made of cotton flannel or an old blanket. Allow 2” on the sides and the end to be turned under after it has been cut the shape of the board. This must be tacked firmly and smoothly on the board. The ironing sheet may be made of unbleached muslin or an old sheet. This is also cut the shape of the board, allowing 4” on the sides and end for the hem. Attach pieces of tape to the opposite sides about 10” apart to tie the sheet on the board.