Horse Training by Modern Methods

CHAPTER IX.
Backing.

This exercise is a suppling one for back and haunches, and is especially applicable to horses who have difficulty in bringing the hind legs under the body. It is an exercise which to the unskillful is dangerous, as it tends to put a horse behind the bit. To the skillful it is of course less dangerous yet it should not be undertaken by either until this point in the education of the horse is reached, provided he be normal. With horses that are very difficult to hold, or are continually bolting, backing exercises may be undertaken earlier in the training.

The movement may be advantageously taught dismounted at first.

Teaching the Backward Movement, Dismounted:—The trainer stands facing the horse. He takes the reins one in each hand and slightly lowers the head to relieve the weight on the hind quarters. He then makes a slight movement with his hands towards his own body, sufficient to prepare the horse to move forward. As the horse is about to move out the trainer presses directly toward the horse with the bit until the horse takes a step to the rear. One step at first is sufficient.

After a few lessons of this, the trainer steps to the left side of the horse, with the reins in the left hand, the riding-whip in the right. He stimulates the hind quarters with a light touch of the whip, and as the horse starts to move his hind quarters up under his body he urges him to take a step to the rear by the pressure of the bit. As soon as he takes a step or two as desired, he leads him forward.

Mounted.—When the horse can perform the last exercise well, mount him. Use the aids required to move the horse to the front; then, just as he is about to move out, increase the pressure of the reins and lean slightly back until the horse steps to the rear. As soon as the horse at first has taken a single step to the rear he should be moved straight to the front. Later several steps to the rear may be required, but a movement to the front always follows the last step. If difficulty is at any time encountered in moving the horse forward after the backward movement, backing should cease as an exercise until the horse is sent up into the bit again.

If the horse sets himself, move him forward a step or two, and as he is moving exert the aids for the backward movement until he obeys. Moving a horse’s haunches laterally will help to prevent a horse from setting himself and refusing to back.

This exercise should not be repeated often in a single day.

PART II.

CHAPTER I.
The Double Bridle.

The horse that can perform successfully the foregoing exercises, that has found his balance while moving forward, that is easy to control by the aids at the walk and trot, and that has learned the use of his legs in accomplishing a good walk, trot, and gallop, is ready for the double bridle. It normally takes about three months to accomplish this.

Definition.—The double bridle is one with usually four cheek straps, which fasten, one into the eye of the curb bit the other into the ring of the snaffle bit.

The curb bit is nearer the front of the horse’s mouth than the snaffle, and the curb chain likewise passes in front of the snaffle bit.

The Severity of the Curb Bit Increases—

1. With the difference between the length of the upper and lower branches.

2. With the tightness of the curb chain.

3. With the height of the port.

4. Inversely with the size of the canons. (De Saint-Phalle.)

Bits with branches similar in length to the U. S. regulation bit are arranged below in order of mildness:

1. The broken curb bit. (Like a snaffle bit, but with upper and lower branches and curb chain.)

2. Rubber- and leather-covered bits.

3. The straight bar bit.

4. The regulation bit.

Kinds.—The “Weymouth” or “Pump” bit is quite universally used for polo. Why it is considered efficacious for polo especially is not known. It is a good bit, except the lips are liable to become pinched.

The “Pelham” is a bit provided with rings for the snaffle rein at the junction of the canon with the branches. The action of the curb reins on this bit does not produce the same effect, when the snaffle reins are used at the same time, as it does on a curb bit, where the snaffle reins are attached to a separate snaffle bit.

It is a general rule to follow, that all complicated bits are useless, and that with a well-trained horse the mildest bit that will insure obedience is the correct one.

Schedule for Accustoming the Horse to the Curb Bit.

The reins are held in both hands, snaffle reins outside the little fingers.

1. Use the curb bit without curb chain until the horse becomes accustomed to it.

2. Use the mildest bit available and fasten the curb chain loosely. At first only move on straight lines until the horse takes the bit quietly, then execute simple exercises in which the horse is proficient. These exercises at first are begun on the snaffle bit.

3. Use the bit best adapted to the horse, and set the curb chain to keep the bit from falling through. Work mainly on the snaffle bit until the horse becomes accustomed to the bit and curb chain.

The preceding movements should be begun at first at a slow gait.

Use.—The curb bit is used primarily, in training, to lower the head, to flex the jaw, and to bring the nose in towards the body.

The snaffle bit raises the head and supports the horse.

A curb bit will not stop a horse that makes up his mind to bolt.

A curb bit roughly used may cause a horse to make up his mind to bolt.

A “hard mouth” is often a tender mouth accustomed to hard hands.

The Curb Bit “Gathers” the Horse.—A horse is gathered when his head and neck are well raised, the front line of the face nearly vertical, and the jaw and the junction of the head and neck at the poll flexible.

A horse in a state of “collection” is in a position to obey, to the utmost of his capability, any demands the aids may give.

A horse is in “collection” when he is gathered and his hind legs are well up under the body.

When a horse is collected, the rider, by having omitted bending the neck near the shoulders during training, has the neck firm on the shoulders and not flexible or “rubber-necked.” Hence the rider acts on the neck through the mouth and on the shoulders through the neck. The hind quarters by being under the horse bind themselves to the forehand. The rider then by acting on the forehand acts likewise upon the hind quarters.

The entire body of the horse should be, if properly collected, an energetic and harmonious whole. The horse is “in hand,” because his jaw is flexible and he yields to the effects of the bit. The horse is light or handy, because he is balanced by continual training and because his center of gravity is equally near both front and hind quarters; hence the proper movement on the part of the rider will disturb this balance in any direction desired.

The rider at this point, being supposed to be able to get the hind legs up under the horse, must learn to gather him.

To gather the horse involves:

1. Direct flexion (the flexion of the jaw and head in the direction of the axis of the horse.)

2. Lateral flexion (the flexion of the neck at the poll in a direction perpendicular to the axis of the horse).

Direct Flexion.—Direct flexion is the concession the head and lower jaw of the horse make in the vertical plane of the axis, of the horse when the action of the reins arrests the extension of the neck. The giving of the neck is confined to the upper portions; the front line of the face is made to approach a vertical line and the head is made to make in an almost imperceptible manner a movement analogous to a nod.

The giving of the jaw consists in opening the mouth, causing complete abandon of the bit, followed immediately by the closing of the mouth and the taking up of contact with the bit again.

To flex the jaw in direct flexion, first start the horse into a walk. Never let the gait slacken during flexion. Close the legs. When the horse goes up into the bit, close one hand on one snaffle rein (if the movement is done with a snaffle bit), or close the hand on both curb reins. Do not make the pressure of long duration if resistance is encountered. Alternate the action, first by releasing, then increasing the pressure. This is more uncomfortable to the horse than continued pressure, and he will soon yield.

The head is flexed in direct flexion so that it is set with the front line of the face nearly vertical by the action of both curb reins. The head and neck are raised by the snaffle bit, should they be lowered too much.

Lateral Flexion.—Lateral flexion is a concession which the head and neck make by turning the head to the right or to the left when an opposing action of the reins stops an extension of the neck. The jaw gives in lateral flexion as in direct flexion. The neck gives by making the head make a turn of a quarter of a circle to the right or left at the poll.

Lateral flexion should be demanded, in the beginning, at the walk. To obtain it, to the right, for example: first, resistance must be offered by the right direct rein, which leads the head into the desired position; the left rein then acts to limit this movement and to work together with the right rein to obtain the concession of the jaw.

Flexion may be made dismounted, if absolutely impossible of execution mounted.

Direct Flexion Dismounted.—Stand on the near side of the horse. Take the snaffle reins off the neck over the horse’s head and hold them a few inches in front of his head with the left hand. Urge the horse forward into a walk and raise the head slightly to the proper elevation with the snaffle reins. When the horse moves out at the walk, take the curb reins in the right hand and assimilate the movement of the reins as though flexing the jaw mounted. Do not let the horse slacken speed or, at any cost, back up.

Lateral Flexion Dismounted.—Stand on the near side, with the snaffle rein held as for direct flexion. Execute direct flexion and when performed lead the horse’s head to the right with a snaffle rein, increasing the pressure of the right curb rein slightly until the head is turned to the right at the poll. Do not let the horse move backward, nor let the neck flex in rear of the poll. The maximum movement of the head is over an arc of a circle of 90 degrees.

CHAPTER II.
The Change of Lead at the Gallop.

This movement is to be undertaken when the horse is capable of taking the desired lead from a trot on a straight line.

1. Put the horse on a circle of large radius, at a gallop. Leave the circle by a line parallel to the diagonal of the riding-hall and form another large circle to the opposite hand, keeping the same lead at the gallop as on the first circle. Galloping on the second circle with the same lead as on the first is galloping “false.” Besides lowering the croup and balancing the horse, the false lead impresses the aids upon the horse, because to maintain a false lead the aids used on the first circle must be more strongly used on the second.

2. Gallop the horse on a straight line, leading right. Bring him down to a trot, previously having changed the aids to gallop left, which assists in bringing the horse to the trot and prepares the way for the next move. As soon as the trot is taken, increase the aids of gallop left, increase the impulsion, and send the horse into gallop left, with only a few steps of the trot intervening between gallops. Gradually, as the horse becomes proficient, decrease the number of steps taken at the trot.

3. When the amount of trot required between changes of lead is hardly more than a slackening of speed, or “half halt,” make a large circle to the right at the gallop, leading right. Leave the circle on the diagonal, as before, and make another circle to the left, holding the right lead. Change the aids, while on the second circle, to gallop left, without coming to the trot, and force the horse into the change of lead.

4. When the horse can accomplish the above, attempt the change of aids and force the change of lead on the straight line without diminishing the gait.

The above movements are very difficult to accomplish smoothly and correctly. The change of aids must not be accomplished roughly and the aids must be used with only the intensity required to change the lead, thereby not forcing the horse to increase of speed.

PART III.

CHAPTER I.
Jumping.

Jumping is an exercise which when properly undertaken is most instructive and productive of good results to both man and horse.

Mechanism of the Jump for Height.

(Jumping from the Gallop Left.)

1. As the left fore foot is about to leave the ground, just before the moment of suspension of the gallop, the leg, especially the fetlock joint, is straightened.

2. The head and neck are elevated.

The above movement raises the forehand.

3. Just as the left foot is raised the two hind legs are brought up to a place on the ground about where the left fore foot was.

4. The hind legs are straightened out.

Due to the last movement, the horse completely leaves the ground and takes the obstacle, with fore and hind legs bent.

5. The horse lands on the left fore foot, legs straight.

6. The right fore foot, leg straight, is then brought to the support.

7. The left fore foot is picked up.

8. The right fore foot is picked up and simultaneously the left hind comes to the ground.

9. The right hind comes to the ground.

The horse then is galloping right after landing.

The horse leaps from a trot from one front leg and both hind legs. The leap is more difficult, as it is impossible at a trot to get both hind legs side by side up under the body to “take off.”

From the walk and halt, the horse in jumping first rears, then straightens out his hind legs.

As jumping for height at a gallop is the easiest for a horse, and as the principles encountered apply equally well to the other gaits, the following deductions are made from the mechanism at the gallop, as explained in previous paragraphs.

From Paragraph 1: As the distance from the jump to the place where the left leg leaves the ground is of the utmost importance to the horse, he should be allowed to gauge his stride while approaching the jump.

From Paragraph 2: As the head and neck are raised to assist in raising the fore quarters, the rider’s body should not lean forward of the perpendicular, for this would hinder the movement. As the horse’s object is to lighten the fore quarters, it follows that great speed is a detriment to a horse in jumping, for the more speed the more weight upon the forehand. Raising the head and neck necessitates lengthening the reins at the moment of extension, or letting them slide through the fingers. It follows then, that, as a false movement of the hand with a severe bit causes greater injury than one with a snaffle bit, a snaffle bit should be used in jumping until proficiency is obtained.

From Paragraph 3: To facilitate the bringing well up under the body of the hind leg, the rider’s legs must be carried back.

From Paragraph 5: The weight of the rider’s body must set to the rear to assist the horse by lightening the load on the forehand while landing. If a severe bit or a hard hand pulls the head in and bends the neck while the horse is in this position, by cramping the muscles of the neck the horse is prevented from stretching his legs to the front to insure a safe landing.

From Paragraph 7: If the rider’s weight is forward or he is thrown upon the horse’s neck while the horse is landing, the extra weight on the forehand prevents the fore leg being picked up and causes over-reaching. Extreme speed has the same effect with the same result.

From Paragraphs 8 and 9: It is seen that the horse is galloping with the other lead after landing. In jumping in the riding-hall care should be exercised at the corner beyond the jump if at the gallop, for, if galloping correctly at the start, the horse is galloping false after the jump.

Teaching the Horse to Jump.—Place a bar upon the ground and lead the horse over it at a walk. When the horse executes this movement correctly, raise the bar to about two feet and jump the horse upon the longe.

To Jump a Horse on the Longe.—First instruct the horse sufficiently upon the longe until he goes equally well on either hand. Approach the jump, the horse circling on the longe on the left hand, for instance. The trainer holds the longe in the left hand so that it can be allowed to run out with ease; the longeing-whip is held in the right hand. Circle the horse near the jump until the horse goes quietly. The circles are made slightly in rear of the jump. When the horse is quiet, move so that the jump will intercept the circle the horse is making. As the horse approaches the jump the trainer, with the longe fairly taut, likewise approaches the end of the bar nearest him, keeping the longeing-whip held in rear of the horse. Urge the horse with the whip, if necessary, until he jumps. After taking off, let the longe run through the fingers so as not to yank the horse or bring him up short. When the horse does well, stop him and caress him or give him carrots or oats.

Jumping should be begun at first at the walk, then at the trot and gallop. The horse jumping for the first time gauges his stride more easily at the walk.

A bar may be placed two or three feet from the ground in the opening of the corral fence, etc., so that the horses that have been worked at jumping on the longe may be thus intercepted by an easy jump on their way to the corral or to some such place to which they are desirous of going. A man with a longeing-whip stands ready to urge on any that refuse. This jump should be stiff and helps to prepare horses for outdoor jumping.

Riding the Horse Over the Jump.—The horse being able to jump with sufficient accuracy, on the longe, is mounted. First, he is ridden over the bar on the ground, then over the bar gradually raised to suit the horse.

On taking a horse up to the jump the following are essential points to remember:

1. The rider must make up his mind that he is going to make the horse jump.

2. He must have confidence in his balance and not stiffen his muscles.

3. He must increase the grip with his knees and the calves of his legs and keep his hands low.

4. The rider must have the horse well in hand and must remember that if a horse attempts to slip out to the left, the use of the right rein, to turn the head to the right, helps the horse to go to the left by freeing the left shoulder. The rein of support is the one which should be used, together with whichever leg will straighten the horse so that he is perpendicular to his jump.

Horses are more easily controlled in the riding-hall, but jump with more freedom outdoors. Outdoor jumping should be taken up as soon as the horse learns to jump moderately well indoors.

Wings are not found in ’cross-country work, hence a troop horse whose training is fitting him for just such work should not be made dependent upon them by their use in the riding-hall all the time.

Jumping for Breadth.—This is a more difficult jump to teach a new horse, because he is more fearful of a ditch than of a fence. From the nature of the jump, it can only be taught outdoors. The method of instruction is the same as for jumping for height.

As the momentum acquired by speed is essential to carry the horse’s body across an open ditch, greater speed is necessary than in jumping for height. Excessive speed, however, so weights down the forehand that it becomes difficult for the horse to raise his forehand sufficiently to clear the ditch.

CONCLUSION.

Although all horses are different one from another, the preceding rules generally apply. The rider who appreciates the needs of his horse is the one most likely to succeed in training.

To many, the expenditure of six months in training troop horses by these methods seems unnecessary and impracticable. With experienced men and amenable horses the time may be slightly reduced. A horse cannot be hurried, and slipshod, careless training is often worse than none.

As it has been found entirely practical to follow out this course with enlisted men on remounts at a regimental post, it is to be hoped that heavy, hard-gaited, uncomfortable horses to ride will soon disappear from the ranks.