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Chapter 19: CHAPTER XVI. ON ICES.
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About This Book

A practical household guide to dinners, desserts, wines, and general food management that blends hands-on advice with historical and anecdotal material. It traces culinary developments from earlier periods to more recent fashions, extracts useful lessons from older treatises, and recommends approaches to menu planning, provisioning, and entertaining. Practical chapters cover wine-cellar requisites, service, and dessert preparation, while numerous illustrative menus and an appendix of historic bills of fare offer concrete examples for readers arranging formal banquets or everyday meals.

CHAPTER XVI.
ON ICES.

At regular set dinners ices are always served. For a party of ten or fourteen there is generally a cream and water ice, with biscuits, &c. The French generally serve a greater number of ices than we do. The ices most in vogue in London are pine, lemon, orange, ginger, strawberry, and cherry ices. In Paris, apricot, peach, chocolate, coffee, and four fruit ices are more common than with us.

Some there are who date the use of ice at table from the time of Alexander the Great; who, it is said, had caves in India for the preservation of ice; but it is certain that in Alexander’s time the Greeks cooled their wine with ice, and that the Romans were also acquainted with this luxury. A French traveller in Turkey, writing in 1553, tells us that the Turks had their glacières, in which they preserved ice for table use. Henry III. was said to be the first who introduced ice at his table in France, and it became common enough in the following century. The word glacière is not found in the dictionary of Monet, published in 1636. But in 1667 Boileau wrote:—

“Pour semble de dis grace
Par le chaud qu’il faisait nous n’avions point de glace,
Point de glace, bon Dieu! dans le cœur de l’été,
Au mois de Juin.”

Wenham Lake ice is now handed round during dinner to mix with wine or water between April and August.