WeRead Powered by ReaderPub
Hours of Exercise in the Alps cover

Hours of Exercise in the Alps

Chapter 47: Transcriber's Note
Open in WeRead

Explore more books like this:

About This Book

A series of first-person essays and field notes recounts alpine journeys that blend vivid descriptions of climbs and glaciers with scientific observations and practical guidance. The narrative traces multiple ascents and attempts on high peaks, dramatic incidents such as crevasse rescues and guide fatalities, and careful reflections on glacial structure, ice physics, clouds, and mountain scenery. Interspersed are technical notes, short excursions in local landscapes, and an account of a voyage to observe an eclipse, all aiming to convey the physical challenges and intellectual pleasures of mountain exploration.

No.LocalityColour of SeaAppearance in Electric Beam
1Gibraltar HarbourGreenThick with fine particles
2Two miles from GibraltarClearer greenThick with very fine particles
3Off Cabreta PointBright greenStill thick, but less so
4Off Cabreta PointBlack-indigoMuch less thick, very pure
5Off TarifaUndecidedThicker than No. 4
6Beyond TarifaCobalt-blueMuch purer than No. 5
7Twelve miles from CadizYellow-greenVery thick
8Cadiz HarbourYellow-greenExceedingly thick
9Fourteen miles from CadizYellow-greenThick, but less so
10Fourteen miles from CadizBright greenMuch less thick
11Between Capes St. Mary and VincentDeep indigoVery little matter, very pure
12Off the BurlingsStrong greenThick with fine matter
13Beyond the BurlingsIndigoVery little matter, pure
14Off Cape FinisterreUndecidedLess pure
15Bay of BiscayBlack-indigoVery little matter, very pure
16Bay of BiscayIndigoVery fine matter, Iridescent
17Off UshantDark greenA good deal of matter
18Off St. Catherine’sYellow greenExceedingly thick
19SpitheadGreenExceedingly thick

Here, in the first instance, we have three specimens of water, described as green, a clearer green, and bright green, taken in Gibraltar Harbour, at a point two miles from the harbour, and off Cabreta Point. The home examination showed that the first was thick with suspended matter, the second less thick, and the third still less thick. Thus the green brightened as the suspended matter became less.

Previous to the fourth observation our excellent navigating lieutenant, Mr. Brown, steered along the coast, thus avoiding the adverse current which sets in through the Strait of Gibraltar from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. He was at length forced to cross the boundary of the Atlantic current, which was defined with extraordinary sharpness. On the one side of it the water was a vivid green, on the other a deep blue. Standing at the bow of the ship, a bottle could be filled with blue water, while at the same moment a bottle cast from the stern could be filled with bright green water. Two bottles were secured, one on each side of this remarkable boundary. In the distance the Atlantic had the hue called ultramarine; but looked fairly down upon, it was of almost inky blackness—black qualified by a trace of indigo.

What change does the home examination here reveal? In passing to indigo, the water becomes suddenly augmented in purity, the suspended matter has become suddenly less. Off Tarifa, the deep indigo disappears, and the sea is undecided in colour. Accompanying this change, we have a rise in the quantity of suspended matter. Beyond Tarifa, we change to cobalt-blue, the suspended matter falling at the same time in quantity. This water is distinctly purer than the green. We approach Cadiz, and at twelve miles from the city get into yellow-green water; this the London examination shows to be thick with suspended matter. The same is true of Cadiz Harbour, and also of a point fourteen miles from Cadiz in the homeward direction. Here there is a sudden change from yellow-green to a bright emerald-green, and accompanying the change a sudden fall in the quantity of suspended matter. Between Cape St. Mary and Cape St. Vincent the water changes to the deepest indigo. In point of purity, this indigo water is shown by the home examination to transcend the emerald-green water.

We now reach the remarkable group of rocks called the Burlings, and find the water between the shore and the rocks a strong green; the home examination shows it to be thick with fine matter. Fifteen or twenty miles beyond the Burlings we come again into indigo water, from which the suspended matter has in great part disappeared. Off Cape Finisterre, about the place where the ‘Captain’ went down, the water becomes green, and the home examination pronounces it to be thicker. Then we enter the Bay of Biscay, where the indigo resumes its power, and where the home examination shows the greatly augmented purity of the water. A second specimen of water taken from the Bay of Biscay held in suspension fine particles of a peculiar kind; the size of them was such as to render the water richly iridescent. It showed itself green, blue, or salmon colour, according to the direction of the line of vision. Finally, we come to our last two bottles, the one taken opposite St. Catherine’s lighthouse, in the Isle of Wight, the other at Spithead. The sea at both these places was green, and both specimens, as might be expected, were pronounced by the home examination to be thick with suspended matter.

Two distinct series of observations are here referred to—the one consisting of direct observations of the colour of the sea, conducted during the voyage from Gibraltar to Portsmouth; the other conducted in the laboratory of the Royal Institution. And here it is to be noted that in the home examination I never knew what water I had in my hands. The labels, which had written upon them the names of the localities, had been tied up, all information regarding the source of the water being thus precluded. The bottles were simply numbered, and not till all the waters had been examined were the labels opened, and the locality and sea-colour corresponding to the various specimens ascertained. I must, therefore, have been perfectly unbiassed in my home observations, and they, I think, clearly establish the association of the green colour of sea-water with fine suspended matter, and the association of the ultramarine colour, and more especially of the black-indigo hue of sea-water, with the comparative absence of such matter.

What, in the first place, is the cause of the dark hue of the deep ocean?[49] A preliminary remark or two will clear our way towards an explanation. Colour resides in white light, appearing generally when any constituent of the white light is withdrawn. The hue of a purple liquid, for example, is immediately accounted for by its action on a spectrum. It cuts out the yellow and green, and allows the red and blue to pass through. The blending of these two colours produces the purple. But while the liquid attacks with special energy the yellow and green colours, it enfeebles the whole spectrum; and by increasing the thickness of the stratum we absorb the whole of the light. The colour of a blue liquid is similarly accounted for. It first extinguishes the red; then, as the thickness augments, it attacks the orange, yellow, and green in succession; the blue alone finally remaining. But even it might be extinguished by a sufficient depth of liquid.

And now we are prepared for a brief, but tolerably complete, statement of the action of sea-water upon light, to which it owes its darkness. The spectrum embraces three classes of rays—the thermal, the visual, and the chemical. These divisions overlap each other; the thermal rays are in part visual, the visual rays in part chemical, and vice versâ. The vast body of thermal rays is beyond the red, being invisible. These rays are attacked with exceeding energy by water. They are absorbed close to the surface of the sea, and are the great agents in evaporation. At the same time the whole spectrum suffers enfeeblement; water attacks all its rays, but with different degrees of energy. Of the visual rays, the red are attacked first, and first extinguished. While the red is disappearing the remaining colours are enfeebled. As the solar beam plunges deeper into the sea, orange follows red, yellow follows orange, green follows yellow, and the various shades of blue, where the water is deep enough, follow green. Absolute extinction of the solar beam would be the consequence if the water were deep and uniform; and if it contained no suspended matter, such water would be as black as ink. A reflected glimmer of ordinary light would reach us from its surface, as it would from the surface of actual ink; but no light, hence no colour, would reach us from the body of the water.

In very clear and very deep sea-water this condition is approximately fulfilled, and hence the extraordinary darkness of such water. The indigo, to which I have already referred, is, I believe, to be ascribed in part to the suspended matter, which is never absent, even in the purest natural water, and in part to the slight reflection of the light from the limiting surfaces of strata of different densities. A modicum of light is thus thrown back to the eye before the depth necessary to absolute extinction has been attained. An effect precisely similar occurs under the moraines of the Swiss glaciers. The ice here is exceptionally compact, and, owing to the absence of the internal scattering common in bubbled ice, the light plunges into the mass, is extinguished, and the perfectly clear ice presents an appearance of pitchy blackness.[50]

The green colour of the sea when it contains matter in a state of mechanical suspension has now to be accounted for, and here, again, let us fall back upon the sure basis of experiment. A strong white dinner-plate was surrounded securely by cord, and had a lead weight fastened to it. Fifty or sixty yards of strong hempen line were attached to the plate. With it in his hand, my assistant, Thorogood, occupied a boat fastened as usual to the davits of the ‘Urgent,’ while I occupied a second boat nearer to the stern of the ship. He cast the plate as a mariner heaves the lead, and by the time it had reached me it had sunk a considerable depth in the water. In all cases the hue of this plate was green: even when the sea was of the darkest indigo, the green was vivid and pronounced. I could notice the gradual deepening of the colour as the plate sank, but at its greatest depth in indigo water the colour was still a blue-green.[51]

Other observations confirmed this one. The ‘Urgent’ is a screw steamer, and right over the blades of the screw was an orifice called the screw-well, through which one could look from the poop down upon the screw. The surface glimmer which so pesters the eye was here in a great measure removed. Midway down a plank crossed the screw-well from side to side, and on this I used to place myself to observe the action of the screw underneath. The eye was rendered sensitive by the moderation of the light, and, still further to remove all disturbing causes, Lieutenant Walton had a sail and tarpaulin thrown over the mouth of the well. Underneath this I perched myself and watched the screw. In an indigo sea the play of colour was indescribably beautiful, and the contrast between the water which had the screw-blades for a background, and that which had the bottom of the ocean as a background, was extraordinary. The one was of the most brilliant green, the other of the deepest ultramarine. The surface of the water above the screw-blade was always ruffled. Liquid lenses were thus formed, by which the coloured light was withdrawn from some places and concentrated upon others, the colour being thus caused to flash with metallic lustre. The screw-blades in this case played the part of the plate in the former case, and there were other instances of a similar kind. The white bellies of the porpoises showed the green hue, varying in intensity as the creatures swung to and fro between the surface and the deeper water. Foam, at a certain depth below the surface, is also green. In a rough sea the light which has penetrated the summit of a wave sometimes reaches the eye, a beautiful green cap being thus placed upon the wave even in indigo water.

But how is this colour to be connected philosophically with the suspended particles? Take the dinner-plate which showed so brilliant a green when thrown into indigo water. Suppose it to diminish in size until it reaches an almost microscopic magnitude. It would still behave substantially as the larger plate, sending to the eye its modicum of green light. If the plate, instead of being a large coherent mass, were ground to a powder sufficiently fine, and in this condition diffused through the clear sea-water, it would send green light to the eye. In fact, the suspended particles which the home examination reveals act in all essential particulars like the plate, or like the screw-blades, or like the foam, or like the bellies of the porpoises. Thus I think the greenness of the sea is physically connected with the matter which it holds in suspension.

We reached Portsmouth on the 5th of January 1871. There ended a voyage which, though its main object was not realised, has left behind it pleasant memories, both of the aspects of nature and the genial kindliness of men.

FOOTNOTES

[1] Hence the name ‘Lauwinen-Thor,’ which, with the consent of Mr. Hawkins, if not at his suggestion, I have given to the pass. [The name has since been adopted in all the maps. March 1871.]

[2] See ‘Note on Clouds,’ p. 82.

[3] This, I believe, was in allusion to the death of Sir Charles Barry.—J. T., 1871.

[4] Instead of attempting to write one myself, I requested the permission of my friend Mr. Hawkins to republish his admirable account of our first assault upon the Matterhorn. I have to thank both him and Mr. Macmillan for the obliging promptness with which my request was granted.

[5] As Bennen and Tyndall were going up the Finsteraarhorn once upon a time, the work being severe, Bennen turned round and said to Tyndall, ‘Ich fühle mich jetzt ganz wie der Tyroler einmal,’ and went on to relate a story of the conversation between a priest and an honest Tyrolese, who complained to his father confessor that religion and an extreme passion for the fair sex struggled within him, and neither could expel the other. ‘Mein Sohn,’ said the priest, ‘Frauen zu lieben und im Himmel zu kommen, das geht nicht.’ ‘Herr Pfarrer,’ sagte der Tyroler, ‘es muss gehen.’ ‘Und so sag’ ich jetzt,’ cried Bennen. ‘Es muss gehen’ is always his motto.

[6] See note at the end of this chapter.

[7] This was written soon after Mr. Buckle’s Royal Institution lecture, which I thought a piece of astonishing rhetoric, but of very unsound science.

[8] See chapter on ‘Killarney,’ p. 413.

[9] Now a substantial hotel which merits encouragement.

[10] Chapter III. of this volume.

[11]Ach, Herr,’ he replied to one of my remonstrances, ‘Sein Sie nicht so hart.

[12] Rendered in accordance with the tone and sentiment, this would be, ‘Ah! sir, it breaks my heart to see you here.’

[13] Mr. Whymper.

[14] Thackeray, in his ‘Peg of Limavady,’ is perhaps more to the point than Emerson:

‘Presently a maid
Enters with the liquor—
Half a pint of ale
Frothing in a beaker;
As she came she smiled,
And the smile bewitching,
On my word and honour,
Lighted all the kitchen.’

[15] Seven years previously Mr. Huxley and myself had attempted to reach this col from the other side.

[16] Bennen’s death is described in Chapter XVIII. A liberal collection was made in England for his mother and sisters; and Mr. Hawkins, Mr. Tuckett, and myself had a small monument erected to his memory in Ernan churchyard. The supervision of the work was entrusted to a clerical friend of Bennen’s, who made but a poor use of his trust.

[17] Eight years ago I was evidently a sun-worshipper; nor have I yet lost the conviction of his ability to do all here ascribed to him.—J.T., 1871.

[18] See Chapter XIX.

[19] Chapter V., p. 405, is devoted to ‘Clouds.’ See also note, p. 82.

[20] For further observations see p. 256.

[21] Phil. Mag. vol. xxiv. p. 169.

[22] Page 167.

[23] I should estimate the level of the Lower Grindelwald glacier, at the point where it is usually entered upon to reach the Eismeer, to be nearly one hundred feet vertically lower in 1867 than it was in 1856. I am glad to find that the question of ‘Benchmarks’ to fix such changes of level is now before the Council of the British Association.

[24] Killed in 1869 upon the Schreckhorn.

[25] Art. X. of ‘Fragments of Science’ is devoted to the sky.

[26] ‘Glaciers of the Alps,’ p. 264.

[27] It will not be supposed that I here mean the stuffing or pampering of the body. The shortening of the supplies, or a good monkish fast at intervals, is often the best discipline for the body.

[28] See illustration at the end of this chapter.

[29] In 1869 I tried to get to the top of the Wetterhorn in a single day from Grindelwald, but the wildness of the storm and the bitterness of the cold drove Peter Baumann and me back, when we were within a quarter of an hour of the top. I was afterwards in the habit of taking to the Riffel See when heavy snow was falling. It was at the Bel Alp, however, that I found myself renewed.

[30] Standing here alone, on another occasion, I heard the roar of what appeared to be a descending avalanche, but the duration of the sound surprised me. I looked through my opera glass in the direction from which the sound proceeded, and saw issuing from the end of one of the secondary glaciers on the side of Mont Tacul a torrent of what appeared to me to be stones and mud. I could see the rocks and débris jumping down the declivities, and forming singular cascades. The noise continued for a quarter of an hour, when the descending torrent diminished until the ordinary stream, due to the melting of the glacier, alone remained. A sub-glacial lake had evidently burst its bounds, and carried the débris along with it in its rush downwards.

[31] It was here that my prudent guide, Édouard Simon, demanded, ‘Est-ce que vous avez une femme?’ and, when I replied in the negative, added, ‘Vous serez tué tout de même.

[32] I have reason to believe that a translation of the two parts hitherto published will soon be forthcoming.—J. T., 1871.

[33] Phil. Trans. vol. cxlvii. p. 327.

[34] Proc. Roy. Soc. vol. ix. p. 141; and vol. x. p. 152. Phil. Mag. S. 4, vol. xvi. pp. 347 and 544; and vol. xvii. p. 162.

[35] Proc. Roy. Soc. Edinb. February 1850.

[36] Pogg. Ann. vol. lxxxi. p. 168.

[37] Phil. Mag. August 1850.

[38] Proc. Roy. Soc. vol. viii. p. 455.

[39]Traité de Physique,’ vol. ii. p. 105.

[40] I have corrected this slight inadvertence. We owe the name to Hooker.

[41] Both Professor Helmholtz and I have since agreed to consider the physical cause of regelation an open question.

[42] I am continually indebted to this able mechanism for prompt and intelligent aid in the carrying out of my ideas.

[43] At this time I was brooding over experiments on the absorption of radiant heat by aqueous vapour.

[44] The cleat is a T-shaped mass of metal employed for the fastening of ropes.

[45] There is, it will be seen, a fair agreement between these impressions and those so vigorously described by a scientific correspondent of the ‘Times.’

[46] Esparto is a kind of grass now much used in the manufacture of paper.

[47] In this essay Mr. Busk refers to the previous labours of Mr. Smith, of Jordan Hill, to whom we owe most of our knowledge of the geology of the rock.

[48] No one can rise from the perusal of Mr. Busk’s paper without a feeling of admiration for the principal discoverer and indefatigable explorer of the Gibraltar caves, the late Captain Frederick Brome.

[49] A note, written to me on October 22, by my friend Canon Kingsley, contains the following reference to this point: ‘I have never seen the Lake of Geneva, but I thought of the brilliant dazzling dark blue of the mid-Atlantic under the sunlight, and its black-blue under cloud, both so solid that one might leap off the sponson on to it without fear; this was to me the most wonderful thing which I saw on my voyages to and from the West Indies.’

[50] I learn from a correspondent that certain Welsh tarns, which are reputed bottomless, have this inky hue.

[51] In no case, of course, is the green pure, but a mixture of green and blue.


Transcriber's Note

Images have been moved next to the text which they illustrate.

The following apparent errors have been corrected:

  • p. 34 (note) "gehen is" changed to "gehen’ is"
  • p. 47 "probablity" changed to "probability"
  • p. 64 "corespondingly" changed to "correspondingly"
  • p. 65 "WATER" changed to "WATER."
  • p. 83 "layers" changed to "layers."
  • p. 115 "maximun" changed to "maximum"
  • p. 122 "Brueil" changed to "Breuil"
  • p. 141 "Shreckhorn" changed to "Schreckhorn"
  • p. 150 "ceased Bennen" changed to "ceased. Bennen"
  • p. 151 "Lys We" changed to "Lys. We"
  • p. 156 "aproached" changed to "approached"
  • p. 206 "XIX" changed to "XIX."
  • p. 209 (note) "p. 82" changed to "p. 82."
  • p. 217 "ever since" changed to "ever since."
  • p. 226 "Finisteraarschlucht" changed to "Finsteraarschlucht"
  • p. 255 "nobleness" changed to "nobleness."
  • p. 262 "Maggiore" changed to "Maggiore."
  • p. 264 "Miracles." changed to "Miracles.’"
  • p. 267 "Bauman" changed to "Baumann"
  • p. 278 "did them" changed to "did then"
  • p. 283 "barometic" changed to "barometric"
  • p. 283 "and myself" changed to "and myself."
  • p. 291 "equilibruim" changed to "equilibrium"
  • p. 300 "morning" changed to "morning."
  • p. 326 "uppose" changed to "suppose"
  • p. 327 (note) "suprised" changed to "surprised"
  • p. 335 "crevasess" changed to "crevasses"
  • p. 339 "explanation" changed to "explanation."
  • p. 345 "truth" changed to "truth."
  • p. 388 "ice," changed to "ice,’"
  • p. 389 "liquefied" changed to "liquefied."
  • p. 394 "0°C" changed to "0° C"
  • p. 398 "unclouded ice" changed to "unclouded ice."
  • p. 403 "filled" changed to "filled."
  • p. 406 "vapour" changed to "vapour."
  • p. 415 "domes" changed to "domes."
  • p. 422 "late snow" changed to "late snow."
  • p. 426 "the wind" changed to "the wind."
  • p. 443 "wierd" changed to "weird"
  • p. 450 "enchroachment" changed to "encroachment"
  • p. 469 "follow green" changed to "follow green."

The following are used inconsistently in the text:

  • cowbells and cow-bells
  • Fig, FIG., and Fig.
  • frostbitten and frost-bitten
  • icefall and ice-fall
  • Lotschsattel and Lötschsattel
  • Nicol’s prism and Nicol prism
  • selfsame and self-same
  • sérac and sérac
  • snowbeds and snow-beds
  • subglacial and sub-glacial
  • Theodule and Théodule
  • thunderstorm and thunder-storm