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How and what to grow in a kitchen garden of one acre cover

How and what to grow in a kitchen garden of one acre

Chapter 96: FOOTNOTES:
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About This Book

This practical guide explains how to plan, plant, and maintain a one-acre kitchen garden, advising on site selection, soil improvement, drainage, and layout with a diagram. It gives step-by-step culture for common vegetables, recommends reliable varieties, and describes hotbed construction, crop rotation, cultivation techniques, and methods for storing roots and forcing early crops. The text also covers routine management—tools, watering, and pest control—and includes a companion essay on salads, herbs, and perennial arrangements, with illustrations to aid identification and execution.

BURPEE’S FARM ANNUAL.

A handsomely illustrated catalogue of the Best Garden, Farm and Flower Seeds, Bulbs and Plants is published by January 1st of each year and mailed gratis to all intending purchasers of seeds. Address

W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO.,

Seed Growers,

PHILADELPHIA, PA.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Miss Moll says that this rusting can be prevented by only hoeing the beans when the soil is dry. We would also particularly recommend Burpee’s Perfection Wax, a fine new variety, that has so far proved free from rust.—Ed.

[2] See the method of covering the seed of Lima beans described by Miss L. M. Moll, and our note on the same.—Ed.

[3] We would also particularly recommend Burpee’s White Zulu, a new variety of 1888. It is one of the earliest of pole beans, immensely productive, and the broad, handsome, white pods, eight to ten inches long, are of the choicest quality.—Ed.

[4] The Extra Early Express, a new variety, just introduced from France, and seed of which we distributed for trial this year, has proved eight to ten days earlier than the Etampes. The heads do not average quite as large as the Etampes, but are of equally as good quality and of the shape shown in the illustration on page 60.—Ed.

[5] For years, Mr. Vandergaw, a large cabbage grower of Long Island, has had a second-early cabbage fully as early as Early Summer and with much larger heads. This is known as the Vandergaw Cabbage, and is only now being generally introduced. The heads are very large and solid, of the shape shown in the illustration on page 64; it is a good keeper, and altogether a good variety, also, for winter use.—Ed.

[6] Other distinct and good varieties of American onions are Southport Yellow Globe and Large Red Globe, Yellow Strasburg or Dutch, and the Extra Early Red. For more complete information, invaluable to all who propose growing onions on a large scale for market, see the new book, “How to Grow Onions, with Notes on Varieties,” an exhaustive treatise written by T. Greiner, of New Jersey, Col. A. H. Arlie, of Oregon, and W. Atlee Burpee.—Ed.

[7] Equally as early is Laxton’s Earliest of All, which is a blue-seeded variety, of very fine quality and handsome appearance.—Ed.

[8] The Stratagem is also a remarkably fine pea, of the same type as Pride of the Market, except that the large, handsome peas are wrinkled.—Ed.

[9] Mr. Darlington’s remarks on the varieties of peas would be incomplete without reference to two remarkable new peas, obtained by crosses made some years since, but only now (1888) being introduced. These peas have been called Burpee’s Quantity (which is illustrated above), and Burpee’s Quality,—the former because it is the most productive of all, as many as ninety pods having been counted upon a single vine—the latter, because, while also very productive, it excels other varieties in its peculiarly rich, sugary flavor. Both varieties grow two and a half feet high, but will well repay brushing, and both are main-crop peas,—Burpee’s Quantity being ready for the table in about two months, and Burpee’s Quality in seven weeks from planting.

Probably no one in America is better posted as to the relative value in the garden of the different peas than Mr. William Falconer, Glen Cove, N. Y., the well-known writer on garden topics. A few peas of Burpee’s Quantity (then known as No. 75) were sent to Mr. Falconer for trial. On Oct. 28th, 1887, he writes, “The pea, No. 75, I had from you this year has given me much satisfaction; indeed, so well pleased am I with it that I wish to grow it next year as a main crop. Season medium to late, grows two and a half feet, and in the way of Abundance; peas large, closely packed together in tight pods, and, when cooked, of capital quality. Without any exception, the heaviest cropper among all my peas this year.”—Ed.

[10] A very distinct and novel variety has just been introduced from China, under the name of Celestial Pepper. The small, nearly heart-shaped fruits are produced in great abundance, growing upright, and are of a beautiful creamy yellow color until fully ripe, when they turn coral red: the plant is handsome enough for the flower garden. Among the largest of the sweet, mild red peppers are Spanish Monstrous and Procopp’s Giant, while among the hottest of all peppers is the Long Narrow Cayenne.—Ed.

[11] While both of the varieties named are excellent for pumpkin pies, a new variety from Washington County, New York, is of superlatively fine quality. It is known as The Quaker Pie Pumpkin, as it had been kept for many years in a family of “Quakers,” or Friends, whose pumpkin pies became famous throughout the neighborhood.

The Saint George or Old Negro pumpkin of New England is also a great favorite, from the choice quality of its fine-grained flesh.—Ed.

[12] We must differ with Mr. Darlington as to the usefulness of the winter radishes. Their fresh, pungent taste is very refreshing in winter, when there is such a scarcity of vegetables. The most popular varieties are the California Mammoth White Winter, Chinese Rose Winter and the Round Black Spanish Winter Radish.—Ed.

[13] For forcing, Wood’s Early Frame is preferred to the Long Scarlet; it is of same shape, but not so long, and has less foliage. Other good early radishes besides those named are Early Round Dark Red, Half Long Scarlet, Early Oval Dark Red, Early White Turnip, French Breakfast and the White Tipped Turnip Radishes. A variety of these handsome little radishes on the table is both attractive and appetizing.—Ed.

[14] In addition to the varieties named, the White Strasburg, Burpee’s Surprise and Chartiers or Shepherd radishes are particularly valuable for summer use. The latter is very handsome, of large shape, clear rose color, shading off into pure white; it is also remarkable from the fact that it retains its fine quality, even when grown to an extraordinary size.—Ed.

[15] Mr. Darlington has only named some of the best of the large varieties of tomatoes. The very small tomatoes, such as Victoria, Red Cherry, Pear-shaped Yellow and White Apple, will be found useful and ornamental for preserving.—Ed.

[16] In addition to the varieties named, we would recommend Phinney’s Early, as probably the best early melon of good size; also the Ice Cream and Jordan’s Gray Monarch, as very choice melons of oblong shape.—Ed.

[17] While, as stated, a well-drained soil is most desirable for the garden, and its value is not to be underrated, yet success in gardening can be had on almost any soil. The more unfavorable the circumstances, the greater credit is due the gardener, and many cannot afford expensive underdraining.—Ed.

[18] The suggestion as to applying manure in the spring is good, as far as the well-drained land is concerned; where the land is not well-drained, however, more of the good properties of the manure are retained by applying the coarse manure in the fall, as it then fills the soil with decomposing vegetable matter.—Ed.

[19] The parsley seed will germinate quickly if soaked in tepid water for twenty-four hours before planting. We must also take exception to the statement that the plain-leaved sorts are superior to the curled varieties for seasoning purposes.—Ed.

[20] The reason here presented for not growing late cabbage, because the worms might damage some of them, is quite original, and about equal to not planting any potatoes, because the bugs might eat the tops. We can hardly conceive of a garden, however small, without late cabbage. For the prevention of the ravages of this pest we would suggest the use of alum water, as being sure, easily applied and entirely harmless to the user.—Ed.

[21] It is the extreme richness of the soil, which is claimed by Miss Moll to be requisite to the growth of the Tomato, that, in her case, renders the use of the trellis and pruning necessary, as it induces too rank a growth of vine, covering the ground so that the sun and air cannot penetrate unless the vines are tied up. We can hardly see any degradation in allowing the plant liberty to grow in the manner intended by nature. More than this, as seedsmen, we pride ourselves on the new and improved varieties of Tomatoes that we have introduced, and the finest we have ever grown—finest alike for size, color, quality and productiveness—have been grown on poor clay soil, that looked fairly yellow when at all dry, and we have never been able to equal them on either rich heavy loam, or on light soils. We would not undervalue the tying up of a few plants for early use, but claim that it is unnecessary for the general crop.—Ed.

[22] As stated, these Tomatoes were undoubtedly originated from the same stock. We received the Turner Hybrid in the spring of 1884, a small packet of seed being sent us by one of our customers—Mr. J. W. Turner, of Iowa. This seed we had planted, and were surprised at the wonderful growth, size and quality of the variety, but unfortunately there were two distinct colors: some were a rich deep red and some a pale pink, of a not very attractive shade. So we grew it carefully for another season before sending out, that we might have them all of the best color. This, we believe, is not the case with the Mikado, as in our trial the two colors were present, although they both are evidently of the same origin.—Ed.

[23] This idea of a mulch of light material to cover the freshly planted beans in a wet season is a very good one; but we would think that saving and applying Coffee Grounds for a bean patch of the size it should be in a garden of one acre, would be a good deal like “emptying a hogshead of water with a teaspoon.” We would suggest the use of sand, sifted coal ashes, chaff or buckwheat hulls, as answering the purpose equally well, and as being much more readily obtained.—Ed.

[24] We think that the melons, cucumbers, etc., get a better start (and we would include the pole beans) when the hill for seed is raised slightly above the surface, as it greatly lessens the danger of the young seedlings “damping off,” and instead of the watering, which is here claimed to be necessary, we would suggest a thorough loosening of the soil around the roots.—Ed.

[25] Leek is both wholesome and palatable. We heartily endorse the words of recommendation, and trust that many readers will include it in their gardens. Kohl Rabi is another vegetable but little known in America, and which Miss Moll is also fully warranted in recommending.—Ed.

[26] The plan here described involves much unnecessary labor. It takes considerable time to dig the trenches, and, unless the soil of the garden were unusually deep, this depth of trench, fourteen inches, would bring up and mix with the surface a great deal of very poor subsoil. As rich soil cannot be found at this depth, a liberal supply of manure must be put down, for the roots to feed upon, where it will not be available for any future crop, unless the trenches were located in exactly the same spot each year. The increase in the labor of digging for storage would be considerable over the plan of surface culture as recommended in Mr. Darlington’s treatise. Miss Moll gives as a reason the greater heat in her locality, to overcome which we would suggest planting between rows of tall-growing sweet corn, and also recommend the use of some of the self-blanching varieties of celery.—Ed.

[27] Endive, commonly known in restaurants as Chicorée, is one of the most attractive and refreshing of salads. It is particularly appetizing when served mixed with lettuce, with plain French dressing.—Ed.

[28] This is also sown at the same time as late cabbage, and grown in the same manner, being used as a fall and winter supply of greens, and we think is most palatable in this way.—Ed.

[29] In this locality (Philadelphia), parsnips and salsify will start into growth, and become worthless for the table if left in the ground after it has become possible to work it in the spring. For a late supply, the roots should be dug and stored in a very cool cellar. This method does not interfere with the garden being all thoroughly plowed in the spring.—Ed.

Transcriber’s Notes:

1. Obvious printers’, punctuation and spelling errors have been corrected silently.

2. Some hyphenated and non-hyphenated versions of the same words have been retained as in the original.