How to fence

At the word swords, draw the blade smartly out of the scabbard, throwing the point upwards, at the full extent of the arm, the edge being still to the rear.

RECOVER SWORDS.

The wrist is now smartly lowered until it is level with the chin, the blade upright, and the edge to the left. This is the position of recover swords. The elbow must be kept close to the body as in the cut.

CARRY SWORDS.

The wrist is now sharply lowered until the arm hangs at its full length, the wrist being in the line with the hip, the edge of the sword to the front, and its back resting in the hollow of the shoulder, the fingers lightly holding the hilt. The left hand hangs at the side until the word inside guard, when it is placed on the left hip.

SLOPE SWORDS.

At the word swords, raise the right hand smartly, until it forms a right angle at the elbow.

RETURN SWORDS.

At the word, raise the blade until it is perpendicular, move the hilt to the hollow of the left shoulder, drop the point of the sword into the scabbard (which has been grasped by the left hand and slightly raised), at the same time turning the edge to the rear. Pause an instant, and send the sword smartly into the sheath, removing both hands as the hilt strikes against the mouth of the scabbard; drop them to the side, with the palms outwards, and in the first position.

PRACTICES.

There are many exercises with the broadsword, called practices. I have given one of them, which is to be practiced alone; but when the pupil has attained some confidence in the use of his weapon, he must be placed opposite another pupil, and they must go through them, each taking the attack and defense in turn.

The young swordsman must be provided with a very stout wire mask, which defends the face and part of the neck, and which should be worked in a kind of helmet above, to guard against the disastrous consequences of receiving the seventh guard. No practices, loose or otherwise, should be permitted without the masks, as neither party would be able to cut or thrust with proper confidence.

SECOND PRACTICE.

This is very useful in teaching the point and parry, as well as giving steadiness on the feet. Two boys are placed opposite each other, at just such a distance, that when perfectly erect they can touch the hilt of their adversary's sword with the point of their own.

The one who gives the first point is called Front Rank (there may be a dozen in each rank, each having tried the distance to his right by extending his sword), and the one who gives first parry is called Rear Rank.

This should be continued until both are weary.

Both swordsmen should learn to do it more rapidly every time they practice. Next time of going through it, front rank and rear rank change places, as they must do in all the practices.

THIRD PRACTICE.

In this and the other practices the cuts must be delivered in the third position, and the guards in the first. In the third and fourth practices the cuts must be given lightly, as many of them are not intended to be guarded, but merely to show the powers of the sword in various positions.

FOURTH PRACTICE.

In this and the preceding exercise, the power of shifting the leg is shown. If two swordsmen attack each other, and No. 1 strikes at the leg of No. 2, it will be better for No. 2 not to oppose the cut by the third or fourth guard, but to draw back the leg smartly, and cut six or seven at the adversary's head or neck.

In loose play, as it is called, i. e., when two parties engage with swords without following any word of command, but strike and guard as they can, both players stand in the second position, because they can either advance or retreat as they choose, and can longe out to the third position for a thrust or a cut, or spring up to the first position for a guard with equal ease.

It is often a kind of trap, to put the right leg more forward than usual, in order to induce the adversary to make a cut at it. When he does so, the leg is drawn back, the stroke passes harmless, and the deceived striker gets the stick of his opponent on his head or shoulders.

We now come to a very complicated exercise, called the

FIFTH PRACTICE.

This practice is capital exercise, and looks very imposing. All these practices ought to be so familiar that the words of command are not needed, the only word required being First, Second, or Third practices, as the case may be.

I can remember once, that two of my pupils had attained such a mastery of their weapons that we used often to go through the practice with real swords. On one occasion, we were acting a charade, and my eldest pupil and myself were enacting the part of two distinguished foreigners (country unknown) who were to get up a fight. So we began by a little quarrel, and finally drew our swords and set hard to work at the fifth practice, which we could do with extreme rapidity, and without the use of words of command. The spectators were horrified, and the ladies greatly alarmed; for there seems to be no particular order in that practice, and an inexperienced eye would certainly fancy that the combatants were in earnest.

FORT AND FEEBLE.

The half of the sword-blade next the hilt is called the "fort," because it is the strongest place on which the cut of an adversary can be received. Always parry and guard with the fort of your sword, as, if you try to guard a cut with the "feeble," which is the remaining half of the blade, your guard will be forced, and the cut take effect.

DRAWING CUT.

The drawing cut is made best with a curved sword, and is executed by placing the edge of the sword on the object, and drawing it over it until it is severed. A good large mangel-wurzel is capital practice. Place the root loose on a table, stand at arm's-length from it, lay the edge of the sword lightly on it, and slice the root by repeatedly drawing the sword over it. This is very difficult, although it looks easy enough, and is sure to jar the arm from the wrist to the shoulder the first time or two, while the sword glides off as if the root were cased in polished steel. However, a little practice will soon overcome the difficulty. This cut is much in use among the Sikhs.

GENERAL ADVICE.

Never look at your own sword, but watch the eye and sword-wrist of your opponent.

Remember that the great point in this exercise, as in fencing, is to gain time. Endeavor, therefore, to advance your point nearer your adversary than his is to you.

Begin the assault out of distance, so that neither party can complain of being taken by surprise.

If the two parties exchange a cut or a thrust at the same moment, the one who gave his cut or thrust in the third position is victorious.

When a cut or thrust is made, the one who receives it passes his sword, i. e., stick, into his left hand, and his opponent comes to inside guard.

Always spring back to the second position after delivering a cut or thrust.

Keep the line of direction carefully, or you will leave an open space for the adversary to get his sword into.

Last and most important,—Don't lose your temper!

ARCHERY.

IMPLEMENTS OF THE CRAFT.

For the Purposes of the Archer the following implements are required, which may be obtained at any of the principal makers in New York or Boston—first, the bow; secondly, the arrow; thirdly, a quiver, pouch, and belt; fourthly, a tassel and grease-pot; fifthly, an arm-guard or brace, and a shooting glove; sixthly, a target or targets; and seventhly, a scoring card.

The Bow is the most important article in archery, and also the most expensive. It is usually from five to six feet in length, made of a single piece of yew, or of lancewood and hickory glued together back to back. The former suits gentlemen the best, and the latter being more lively is better adapted for the short, sharp pull of the ladies. The wood is gradually tapered, and at each end is a tip of horn, the one from the upper end being longer than the other or lower one. The strength of bows is marked in pounds, varying from 25 to 80 lbs. Ladies' bows are from 25 to 40 lbs. in strength, and those of gentlemen from 50 to 80 lbs. One side of the bow is flat, called its "back;" the other rounded, is called the "belly;" and nearly in the middle, where the hand should take the hold, it is lapped round with velvet, and that part is called the "handle." In each of the tips of horn is a notch for the string called "the nock."

Bowstrings are made of hemp or flax, the former being the better material; for though at first they stretch more, yet they wear longer, and stand a harder pull as well as being more elastic in the shooting. In applying a fresh string to a bow, be careful in opening it not to break the composition that is on it; cut the tie, take hold of the eye, which will be found ready-worked at one end, let the other part hang down, and pass the eye over the upper end of the bow. If for a lady, it may be held from 2 to 2½ inches below the nock; if for a gentleman, half an inch lower, varying it according to the length and strength of the bow; then run your hand along the side of the bow and string to the bottom nock, turn it round that and fix it by the noose, called the "timber noose," taking care not to untwist the string in making it. This noose is merely a simple turn back and twist without a knot, but it is better seen than described. When strung, a lady's bow will have the string about 5 or 5½ inches from the belly; and a gentleman's about half an inch more. The part opposite the handle, is bound round with waxed silk, in order to prevent its being frayed by the arrow. As soon as a string becomes too soft and the fibers too straight, rub it with bees-wax, and give it a few turns in the proper direction, so as to shorten it and twist its strands a little tighter; a spare string should always be provided by the shooter.

The Arrows are differently shaped by the various makers; some being of uniform thickness throughout, while others are protuberant in the middle; some, again, are larger at the point than at the feather end, which I believe to be the best form for shooting; and others are quite the reverse. They are now invariably made of white deal, with points of iron or brass riveted on, but generally having a piece of heavy wood spliced on to the deal between it and the point, by which their flight is improved. At the other end a piece of horn is inserted, in which is a notch for the string; and they are armed with three feathers glued on, one of which is of a different color to the others, and is intended to mark the proper position of the arrow when placed on the string—this one always pointing from the bow. These feathers, properly applied, give a rotary motion to the arrow which causes its flight to be straight. They are generally from the wing of the turkey or goose. The length and weight vary; the latter being marked in sterling silver coin, stamped on the arrow in plain figures. It is usual to paint a crest, or a distinguishing ring or rings, on the arrow just above the feathers, by which they may be known in shooting at the target.

The Quiver is merely a tin case painted green, and is intended for the security of the arrows when not in use. The Pouch and Belt are worn round the waist, and the latter contains those arrows which are actually being shot.

A Pot to Hold Grease for Touching the Glove and String, and a Tassel to wipe the arrows, are hung to the belt. The grease is composed of deer-suet, or of beef-suet, and bees-wax melted together. Instead of a leather belt, ladies use a cord and tassels round the waist, to which the pouch, of a different shape to that adopted by gentlemen, is hooked; and this, again, has the grease-pot suspended to it.

The Arm is protected from the blow of the string by the brace, a broad guard of strong leather buckled on by two straps. A Shooting-Glove, also of thin tubes of leather, is attached to the wrist by three flat pieces ending in a circular strap buckled round it. This glove prevents that soreness of the fingers which soon comes on after using the bow without it.

The Target consists of a circular thick mat of straw covered with canvas, painted in a series of circles. It is usually from three feet six inches to four feet in diameter; the middle is about six or eight inches in diameter, gilt, and called "the gold;" the next is called "the red," after which comes the "inner white," then "the black," and finally, "the outer white." These targets are mounted upon triangular stands, at distances apart of from 50 to 100 yards; 60 being the usual shooting distance.

A Scoring-Card is provided with columns for each color, which are marked with a pin, as here indicated. The usual score for a gold hit, 9; the red, 7; inner white, 6; black, 3, and outer white, 1.

The Use of the Bow.

To Bend and String the Bow properly, the following directions will be serviceable, and the young archer should pay particular attention to them, since a neglect of these cautions will often lead to a fracture of the bow by bending it the wrong way:

Take the bow by the handle, in the right hand.

Place the bottom end upon the ground, resting against the hollow of the inside of the right foot, keeping the flat side of the bow (called the back) towards your person; the left foot should be advanced a little, and the right placed so that the bow cannot slip sideways.

Place the heel of the left hand upon the upper limb of the bow, below the eye of the string. Now, while the fingers and thumb of the left hand slide this eye towards the notch in the horn, and the heel pushes the limb away from the body, the right hand pulls the handle towards the person, and thus resists the action of the left, by which the bow is bent, and at the same time the string is slipped into the "nock," as the notch is termed.

Take care to keep the three outer fingers free from the string, for if the bow should slip from the hand, and the string catch them, they will be severely pinched. If shooting in frosty weather, warm the bow before a fire, or by friction with a woolen cloth. If the bow has been lying by for a long time, it should be well rubbed with boiled linseed oil before using.

To Unstring the Bow, hold it as in stringing; then press down the upper limb exactly as before, and as if you wished to place the eye of the string in a higher notch; this will loosen the string and liberate the eye, when it must be lifted out of the nock by the forefinger, and suffered to slip down the limb.

Before Using the Bow, hold it in a perpendicular direction, with the string towards you, and see if the line of the string cuts the middle of the bow; if not, shift the eye and noose of the string to either side, so as to make the two lines coincide. This precaution prevents a very common cause of defective shooting, which is the result of an uneven string throwing the arrow on one side.

After Using It, unstring it; and if a large party is shooting, after every end it should be liberated from its state of tension; but in this respect there is a great difference in different bows, some good ones soon getting cast from their true shape, and others, though inferior bows, bearing any ordinary amount of tension without damage.

The General Management of the Bow should be on the principle that damp injures it, and that any loose floating ends interfere with its shooting.

It should, therefore, be kept well varnished, and in a water-proof case, and it should be carefully dried after shooting in damp weather. If there are any ends hanging from the string cut them off pretty close, and see that the whipping in the middle of the string is close and well-fitting. The case should be hung up against a dry internal wall, not too near fire.

In Selecting the Bow, be careful that it is not too strong for your power, and that you can draw the arrow to its head without any trembling of the hand. If this cannot be done after a little practice, the bow should be changed for a weaker one, for no arrow will go true if it is discharged by a trembling hand.

In Selecting Arrows, be careful that they are not too long. For a bow of 5 feet 10 inches, the arrows should be about 2 feet 4 inches in length. For a lady's bow of 4 feet 10 inches, the arrow should measure about 2 feet.

In Shooting, keep the longer limb of the bow upwards, as the bow is liable to be broken if used the other way, and the wrapping of the string does not coincide with the upper part of the handle. Bows may be broken either from the above circumstance, or by overdrawing them, or by snapping the string without an arrow in it, or by the string breaking; and if a bow stands all these trials, it is to be prized as a sound and good bit of stuff.

After an arrow has been shot into the target or the ground, be particularly careful to withdraw it, by laying hold close to its head, and by twisting it round as it is withdrawn in the direction of its axis. Without this precaution it may be easily bent or broken.

In Shooting at the Target, the first thing to be done is to Nock the Arrow—that is, to place it properly on the string. In order to effect this, take the bow in the left hand, with the string towards you, the upper limb being towards the right. Hold it horizontally while you take the arrow by the middle, pass it on the under side of the string and the upper side of the bow, till the head reaches two or three inches past the left hand; hold it there with the forefinger or thumb while you remove the right hand down to the nock. Turn the arrow till the cock-feather comes uppermost; then pass it down the bow, and fix it on the nocking point of the string. In doing this, all contact with the feathers should be avoided, unless they are rubbed out of place, when they may be smoothed down by passing them through the hand from the point towards the nock.

The Attitude for shooting should be graceful as well as serviceable. The body should be at right angles with the target; but the face must be turned over the left shoulder, so as to be opposed to it. The feet are to be flat on the ground, with the heels a little apart, the left foot turned towards the mark; the head and chest inclined a little forward, so as to present a full bust, but not bent at all below the waist.

In Drawing the Bow, proceed as follows:

1st Method.—Take hold of the bow with the left hand, having the elbow straight; then, having placed the arrow as directed in the last paragraph, and having the finger-stalls or shooting-glove on, put a finger on each side of the arrow on the string and the thumb on the opposite side, so as to steady it; then raise all at the full length of the arm till the right hand reaches nearly to the level of the shoulder, and the left is opposite the target, when, by drawing the one to the ear, and the other towards the target, the arrow is brought to a direct line with the bull's-eye, and at that moment it is released.

2nd Method.—Draw the arrow as before, but pause when the arrow is fully extended to the head, and take aim. This, however, requires a very strong arm, and also a strong bow, or there will be a quivering of the muscles, which is communicated to the arrow; beside the danger of breaking the bow. The loosing must be quick, and the string must leave the fingers smartly and steadily, the bow hand at that moment being held as firm as a vise, upon which the goodness of the flight mainly depends.

The Following Directions should be attended to strictly, if good shooting is to be attained:—

1.—Fix the attention steadily upon the object, and disregard all external objects, which are liable otherwise to distract the eye at the moment of shooting.

2.—In drawing the bow, in order to secure the arrow in its place, turn the bow a little obliquely, so that the handle and your knuckles will together form a groove for the arrow to run in. When it falls off, it is from the string being held too far up by the fingers, which causes it to twist in the drawing, and the arrow is thereby thrown off from resting against the bow. The proper length is midway between the ends and the first joint of the fingers. Three fingers may be used, but the arrow should be between the first and second.

3.—In taking aim, two points must be attended to, viz: the lateral direction and the distance, because there is no bow which will drive an arrow many yards perfectly point-blank, and, consequently, a slight elevation must in all cases be made, and for long distances, with weak bows, a very considerable one. It requires great experience to manage the elevation properly, and much must depend upon the exact strength of the bow, and the distance of the shot. With regard to the lateral direction, it is materially affected by the wind, and this must always be allowed for if there is any stirring; and if it is in the line of the targets, one end will require much less elevation than the other.

4.—Fix the eyes on the mark, and not on the arrow. Avoid all such expedients as putting a mark on the glove to aim by. Do not look from the mark to the arrow and back again. The proper plan is to keep both eyes open, and look steadily at the mark, while with the hands the bow is raised or lowered in accordance with what the mind thinks is the proper direction.

5.—If an arrow falls off the string, and the archer can reach it with his bow, it is not shot: but if he cannot, it must be counted as such.

TARGET-SHOOTING.

The Targets are fixed exactly opposite each other, at 60 yards or perhaps more apart. The stands, when properly placed, are each called "an end." The proper number of arrows, as fixed by the rules, are then shot from each end by all the party assembled, when all proceed to pick up or extract their arrows, the marker scoring for each before drawing them from the target, after which the party shoot back again to the other end, and so on until the whole number of ends have been shot.

BUTT-SHOOTING.

Butts are built of long sods of turf pressed together. The form of the base is an oblong square, being about 8 or 9 feet on the front side, and 5 feet wide at the ends. The height is generally about 7 feet, and the depth diminishes gradually from the bottom to the top. When more than two are wanted they are ranged in sets; each set consists of four, ranged at the distance of 30 yards apart, and forming a chain of lengths of 30, 60, 90, and 120 yards; but so disposed as not to stand in the way of the archers when shooting at any of the lengths. Against the front of the butt is placed the mark, which is a circular piece of thin white pasteboard, fastened by a peg through the middle. The size of this, for 30 yards, is four inches in diameter; for 60 yards, 8 inches; and so on increasing in diameter in proportion to the distance. Shots in the butt missing the mark are not scored; and he who makes the greatest number of hits is the winner. If two are alike, the nearest to the central peg is the successful one.

Roving.

This is so called because the archers rove from place to place, and have no fixed target, but shoot at trees or any other object which presents itself. The winner of the first shot chooses the next, and so on; the distance being from 100 to 200 yards; and all arrows falling within five bow-lengths scoring, if nearer to the mark than the adversary's arrow.

Flight-Shooting.

Flight-Shooting is merely a trial of distance, and he who can shoot the furthest is the winner of the trial.

Clout-Shooting.

The Clout is a small white target of pasteboard, about twelve inches in diameter, which is slipped into a cleft stick, and this is stuck into the ground obliquely, so as to bring the lower edge of the clout to the ground. The distance is generally from 8 to 10 score-yards, and the same rules apply as in roving.

Cross-bow Shooting.

Cross-bows are bows set in a frame which receives the arrow or bolt, and they are set and discharged by a trigger after taking aim. They are, however, now seldom used except for rook-shooting; and even there the pea-rifle has almost entirely superseded them.

RULES OF ARCHERY MEETINGS.

The Rules by which archery meetings are governed are partly the same as in all other similar societies, and partly peculiar to this craft. The former consist of those which regulate the election of members, providing for refreshments, &c., which vary according to circumstances, and need not here be specified. The latter are generally as follows:—

1.—That a "lady paramount" be annually elected.

2.—That there be — meetings in each year, the gentleman at whose house the meeting takes place to be president; and that every member intending to shoot should be on the ground by — o'clock. The shooting to commence at — and to terminate at —.

3.—That all members intending to shoot shall appear in the uniform of the club; and that a silver badge be worn by every member of the society, or a forfeit will be enforced for such omission.

4.—That the secretary do send out cards at least a month before each day of meeting, acquainting the members with the day and place of meeting.

5.—That there shall be four prizes at each meeting, two for each sex; the first for numbers, the second for hits, and that no person shall be allowed to have both on the same day. The sum of —— dollars to be placed at the disposal of the "lady paramount" for prizes at each meeting.

6.—That the winner of a prize, or prizes, shall lose a ring for each prize won. But that a ring be given back after any subsequent meeting at which such member shall shoot without winning.

7.—That in case of a tie for hits, numbers shall decide; and in case of a tie for numbers, hits shall decide.

8.—That the decision of the "lady paramount" shall be final.

9.—Two prizes to be given at each meeting for strangers, of the value of —.

10.—That there be a challenge prize of the value of —, and that a commemorative silver ornament be presented to winners of the challenge prize, to which a clasp be added on future occasions.

11.—That the distance for shooting be 60 and 100 yards, and that 4-feet targets be used.

12.—That each shooter be allowed to shoot — arrows, distinctly marked or colored.

DRESS.

The Usual Dress for Ladies peculiar to archery is in most cases a green jacket worn over white; sometimes, however, the color is black.

The gentlemen's costume is not generally fixed in archery clubs, but sometimes a green suit is the club uniform.

EXPENSES.

The expenses of archery are not usually great, though a good many arrows will be lost or spoiled during a season's shooting, especially if the grass is not kept mown very close. Bows and all the other paraphernalia last a long while; and, with the exception of the arrows, the first cost may be considered to be the only one, over and above the subscription to the club, to which most archers like to belong, competition being the essence of the sport.

HURDLE RACING.

1. The usual distance, 120 yards, over ten hurdles, regulation height, three feet six inches upright, not less than 12 or more than 20 feet apart, first hurdle must be placed 15 yards from the scratch-mark.

2. Hurdles must be cleared with a jump, touching the hands to the hurdle will be declared foul, and the offender disqualified.

3. Hurdle races may be arranged for any distance and any height of hurdle.

4. Each contestant must keep in his direct line of starting, or as near so as circumstances will permit. Any deviation from such line will subject the offender to disqualification.

Note.—There are three requisites to make a good hurdler: Speed, spring, and judgment; speed to cover the ground, spring to jump the hurdles, and judgment to measure the steps between the hurdles. It is one of the many healthful exercises in Athletics, but requires much practice and experience; beginners should make their first effort at two feet six inches. Great care must be taken not to touch the top bar, as it virtually throws you out of the race and may cause injury.

VAULTING WITH POLE, OR POLE-LEAPING.

1. The uprights should be nine feet apart, and the bar placed on pins projecting two inches.

2. The pole must fall so as not to touch the bar.

3. A competitor touching the bar without causing it to fall shall be considered to have cleared it.

4. The height of bar at starting shall be determined by a majority of the contestants.

5. Competitors will be allowed three trials at each height.

6. The bar shall be raised at the discretion of a majority of the contestants, and so continued until only one competitor vaults over it, who shall be declared the victor.

7. When a competitor knocks the bar down, the rotation rule must be enforced, as in the running high jump.

8. Three balks shall be called "no vault," and must be recorded as one of the three trials.

Note.—This graceful and manly exercise has of late years been greatly abused, not so much for want of rules, as it was and is to have these rules enforced. We have seen two men, at three different meetings, claim the right to the grounds and time of at least one of the judges for from two to three hours, whereas, had the rules been strictly enforced, one would have gained a victory or both been disqualified. Gentlemen Judges, please remember these contestants appear before an audience (who pay admission) to perform, not to practice, and when they insist upon keeping the bar at a height that delays the games, they should be disqualified under the rules.

THROWING THE HAMMER.

1. The hammer-head shall be of solid iron, perfectly round, standard weights, 16 and 12 pounds, exclusive of handle. Length of handle three feet six inches over all. The handle should be made from split white hickory wood.

2. The competitor must stand at the scratch with one foot touching the scratch-mark. He is at liberty to throw with one or both hands.

3. Touching the ground, over the scratch-mark, with any portion of the body before the hammer strikes, shall be declared "no throw," and must be recorded as one of the three trials.

4. Permitting the hammer to carry a competitor from his balance or letting the hammer go out of time must stand as one of the three trials.

5. When the head and handle strike the ground at the same time the head or iron is the measuring mark, at the first break of the ground made by it. Should the handle strike first, one length of the handle, in a direct line with the throw, must be added. The measurement must be from the scratch-mark, midway between the thrower's feet, to the first break, in accordance with above rules.

Note.—In soft or clay bottom there is no difficulty in getting accurate measurement, but in quick or shifting sand close attention is required.

PUTTING THE SHOT.

1. The shot must be of solid iron and perfectly round, standard weight 16 pounds. The shot must be put from the shoulder with one hand, not thrown from the side or under swing.

2. Competitors will take their position between two parallel lines, said lines being seven feet apart. Passing the toe-mark, or touching the ground outside of the mark, with any part of the body before the shot strikes the ground, will be judged and recorded a foul, "no put," and must stand as one of the three trials.

3. Each competitor is entitled to three trials. The measurement shall be from the scratch-line or mark opposite the toe-print to the first or nearest break of the ground made by the shot.

Note.—The object being to see how many feet and inches the competitors can put, in accordance with the above rules, not how straight they can put.

[THE END.]

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17. Pinkerton's Boy Detectives, by Jas. D. Montague
18. Blue Cap; or, The Australian Dick Turpin.
19. Barnum's Boy Ben, by Commodore Ah-Look.
20. Yankee Bob, by Ralph Morton.
21. Joe Ready, by Richard R. Montgomery.
22. The Boy Swordsman, by Percy B. St. John.
23. Daddy Durge, the Old Man of the Dead-House, by Walter Fenton.
24. Union Dick and the Guerrillas, by Philip Murdock.
25. Cavalry Jack, by Col. Ralph Fenton.

For sale by all newsdealers, or will be sent to your address, post-paid, on receipt of price, 5 cents per copy. Address

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,

Box 2730. 34 and 36 NORTH MOORE ST., N. Y.

THE BOYS OF NEW YORK
POCKET LIBRARY.

Boys, this is just the Book you have needed for a long time

We intend to make the stories contained in this Library the best ever published from the pens of our most popular and interesting authors. These Libraries contain thirty-two pages, and each number is complete in itself and handsomely illustrated.

The following is a list of the latest numbers published of the Boys of New York Pocket Library:

ONLY FIVE CENTS.

Do not fail to purchase one from your newsdealer, as they all have them on hand, or send five cents to

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,

Box 2730. 34 and 36 North Moore St., N. Y.

OUR COMIC BOOKS.

FUN, LAUGHTER AND AMUSEMENT FOR EVERYBODY

These books are superior to any that have ever been published.

CONSULT THE FOLLOWING LIST:

Every book is handsomely illustrated by the best comic artists. Any one of them is a sure cure for the blues. For sale by all news dealers, or sent to your address, prepaid, on receipt of price, ten cents each. Address

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,

Box 2730. 34 and 36 North Moore St., N. Y.

Frank Tousey's
BY-THE-WAY SERIES,

Containing five interesting and exciting works of fiction. Each book is handsomely bound in a beautifully-illustrated cover, and contains sixty-four pages of reading matter. Every book is a complete number. Read the following titles:

For sale by every newsdealer in the United States and Canada, or we will send them to you, postage free, on receipt of the price. Address

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,

Box 2730. 34 and 36 North Moore St., N. Y.

OUR 10 CENT BOOKS

USEFUL, INSTRUCTIVE AND AMUSING.

Containing valuable information on almost every subject, such as Writing, Speaking, Dancing, Flirting, Cooking; also, Rules of Etiquette, The Art of Ventriloquism, Gymnastic Exercise, and The Science and Art of Self-Defense.

All the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the United States and Canada: or they will be sent, postage paid, to your address, on receipt of 10 cents each.

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,

Box 2730. 34 and 36 North Moore St., N. Y.

Transcriber's Notes:

The original edition did not include a table of contents.

Images may be clicked to view larger versions.

Page 4, changed "occured" to "occurred."

Page 5, added missing close quote after "the mind."

Page 22, changed "betwen" to "between."

Page 26, removed unnecessary period after "Cut" in "Cut. 2."

Page 42, changed "there fore" to "therefore."

Page 44, reformatted fractions (e.g. 2 1-2 becomes 2½).

Page 46, added missing comma after "red."

Page 55, changed "al lowed" to "allowed."

Page 56, added missing period after 10.