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How to paint permanent pictures

Chapter 18: MADDER LAKE AND HARRISON RED
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About This Book

The work presents practical guidance for artists on selecting and using pigments, vehicles, supports, and varnishes to produce durable paintings. It explains simple and complex palettes, permanent foundations, preparation of wood and metal supports, and the properties of oils, tempera, watercolors, waxes and mediums. The author discusses common causes of deterioration—fading, darkening, cracking, peeling—and prescribes materials and techniques to prevent them, including labeling and sequence of application. Chapters cover specific problem pigments to avoid, varnishes and blooms, repainting, restoration and cleaning, and framing. Advice is technical but conveyed in plain language to help painters and collectors produce and preserve long-lasting work.

MADDER LAKE AND HARRISON RED

BOTH of these colors are aniline colors and therefore artificial. There is some Madder Lake on the market which is made from the Madder Root but it does not differ from the artificial in the slightest degree and both the natural and the artificial are absolutely permanent under normal conditions. The artificial is sometimes sold under the name alizarine.

Madder Lake is transparent when used as a glaze and it can be mixed with a number of pigments with which it does not interact, but it must not be mixed with the iron pigments that contain water, and these are principally all the Ochres and Siennas, but as a glaze it may go over any color without being decomposed. It has a record for permanency of several hundred years and is at least of essential importance in portrait painting.

Harrison Red is rather a complex aniline color, exceedingly brilliant, but it has some defects which the painter should know. In the first place it bleeds very slightly, that is to say, if Zinc White or Flake White is painted over pure Harrison Red, the Zinc or Flake will turn a pinkish brown, which is due to the fact that the linseed oil, or other drying oil will absorb part of the dye out of Harrison Red. The painter, therefore, in using Harrison Red must be careful of this defect. Harrison Red must not be mixed with an iron color like Ochre, Sienna, or Raw Umber, otherwise its brilliancy is slightly marred. It is similar in many respects to Deep Vermilion, excepting that it is many times stronger than Vermilion. It can be reduced with Permanent White (Blanc Fixe) without materially lessening its brilliancy.