To dismount she must transfer the reins to her right hand, take her left foot from the stirrup, and lift her right knee over the upper pommel, making sure that her skirt is not caught on any part of the saddle. She must then take a firm hold of the pommel with the hand containing the reins and the whip, the latter held so that it will not touch the horse. If there is some one to assist her she may reach out her left arm, and by this she can be steadied as she dismounts. In jumping down she should keep hold of the pommel and turn slightly, so that as she lands she is facing the horse, ready to notice and guard against signs of kicking or bolting. Until she is fairly on the ground she must not let go of the reins or the pommel, for should the horse start she might be dragged with her head down, if her skirt or her foot caught, and without the reins she could not stop him.
It is well to discard the stirrup for some time during each ride, first at the canter, then at the trot, to make sure that too much weight is not rested on this support, and that the rise is from the right knee. If too much dependence is placed on the stirrup the seat is sure to be too far to the left, unless the leather is too short, when the body will be as much too far to the right, instead of directly on top of the horse.
If these directions are observed, a very firm seat will be the result, which gives a confidence that enables one to be thoroughly flexible above the waist without fear of going off, and dispels a dread that often accounts for a stiff or crouching position. A test as to whether one is sitting sufficiently close in the canter is to put a handkerchief on the saddle, and note if the seat is firm enough to keep it there.
IV
IN THE SADDLE
The first impulse of a novice is to grasp the horse with her left heel, while the leg is bent back from the knee so that it almost reaches his flank. Instead of this, the leg from the knee, which should not be more than half an inch below the pommel, must hang naturally in a perpendicular line, and the foot parallel with the horse, the heel being held away from his side and slightly depressed, the ball of the foot resting on the stirrup. This alters the grip entirely, and gives the greatest possible purchase, with the knee firmly in the angle between the pommel and the saddle flap, the thigh close to the saddle above, and the inside of the calf below, where one should be able to hold a piece of paper without having it fall out while trotting. The left foot will, of necessity, remain quiet—a most desirable point often neglected.
Now for the right leg. The first direction usually given is to grasp the pommel with it. That is all very well, but it leads to a grievous error. In the endeavor to obey the order, the right knee is pressed hard to the left—against the pommel, it is true, but in such a manner that there is considerable space between the leg and the saddle, extending from the knee half-way up the thigh. Thus the rider rises, owing to her grip being too high, so that a person on the right can often see the pommel beneath her.
The first thing to do is to sit well back on the saddle, with the shoulders square to the front, and press down from the hip to the knee until as close to the saddle as possible. Then, when sure that the knee is down, taking care that it does not leave the saddle in the slightest degree, grasp the pommel. It is from this knee that one must rise, and the most essential point is to have it absolutely firm, with a secure hold on as extended a surface as possible. From the knee the leg hangs straight, kept close to the horse, with the toe depressed just enough to avoid breaking the line of the skirt. It is seldom realized that the right leg below the knee should be held as firmly against the horse as the left, but such is the case.
The body should be held erect at all times, the back straight while rising, instead of appearing to collapse with each movement, or rising from right to left with a churning motion instead of straight up and down; shoulders should be level—the right one is inclined to be higher than the left, as well as farther forward—well back and equidistant from the horse's ears, chest expanded, and chin held near the neck, as nothing is more unsightly than a protruding chin. The arms should fall naturally at the sides, bending inward from the elbow, but on no account to such an extent as to cause the elbows to leave the sides or form acute angles. All stiffness should be avoided.
Some difficulty may be experienced at first, though, in attempting to relax the muscles above the waist while keeping the lower ones firm. A little practice will accomplish this, and, as a stiff carriage is most frequently the result of self-consciousness, it will be desirable to practise where there are no spectators. As the woman becomes more accustomed to riding she will lose some of her rigidity; but she must not go to the other extreme and be limp or careless in her way of holding herself. A woman's body should be at right angles to her horse's back, neither inclining backwards nor giving evidence of a tendency to stoop. Her anxiety to comply with these directions may render her conscious and awkward for a while; but if she will persevere, bearing them all in mind, they will become as second nature, and she will follow them naturally and gracefully.
The hands should be held about two thirds of the way back between the right knee and hip, and as low as possible. They should be perfectly steady, and in rising never communicate the motion of the body to the horse's mouth. If the right knee is used to rise from, the seat will not need to be steadied by the reins. In the canter, however, the hands, as well as the body above the waist, should sway slightly with the horse's stride, but not more than is necessary; for that, and rising too high in the trot, give an appearance of exertion not compatible with grace.
The wrists should be bent so that the knuckles point straight ahead with the thumbs up, thus giving the horse's mouth play from the wrist, instead of, as is often the case, from the shoulder, the former admitting of much greater delicacy of handling, and the give-and-take movement being not so easily observed. Most teachers instruct a pupil to keep her finger-nails down, but this also necessitates all movement coming from the shoulder, or else sticking out the elbows.
Many hold their reins in the left hand, allowing the right to hang at the side. This does not look well, and in case of an emergency, such as stumbling, the hand being so far from the reins precludes the possibility of rendering the quick assistance required. The reins should be held in the left hand, but the right should be on them, lightly feeling the horse's mouth, thereby anticipating his movements.
The left snaffle-rein should go outside of the little finger, the left curb between the little and third fingers, the right curb between the third and middle fingers, and the right snaffle between the middle and first fingers. They must all be brought through the hand, over the second joint of the first finger, where they must lie flat and in order, held there by the thumb. The third finger of the right hand should rest on the right snaffle, leaving the first and second free to use the curb if required, thus giving equal bearing on all four reins.
If the use of the curb alone is wanted, the third finger of the right should release the right snaffle, the first and second retaining their hold on the curb, and the desired result will be produced.
If only the snaffle is desired, it may be brought to bear more strongly by keeping hold of the right rein with the third finger of the right hand, and reaching over on the left snaffle with the first finger.
When this method is pursued there is no necessity for shifting the reins or hauling at them, and constantly changing their position and length. When a rein has slipped through the fingers of the left hand, instead of pushing it back from in front it should be pulled to the proper length from back of the left hand.
It is quite correct, though inconvenient, to hold the reins in both hands; but the hands should be held close together, with the thumbs up, and always on the reins to prevent slipping. The little fingers then separate the reins, the left snaffle being outside of the left little finger, the left curb between the little and third fingers, with the reins drawn over the first finger; the right snaffle outside of the right little finger, the right curb between the little and third fingers, and these also drawn over the first finger, in both instances held by the thumbs. In this way the right reins may quickly be placed in the left hand by inserting the middle finger of the left hand between them without displacing the others. Sometimes the ends of the left reins are passed over the first finger of the right hand as well as of the left one, and carried on past the little finger, the same being done to the right reins, thus giving additional purchase should the horse pull.
It is well to know several ways of holding the reins, and to practise them all. For instance, the positions of the snaffle and curb may be reversed; indeed, many expert riders always hold their reins with the curb outside and the snaffle inside, especially in jumping, where the curb is not used, and therefore requires a less prominent place in the hand.
Another position of the reins is to have the middle finger of the left hand separate the snaffle and the little finger the curb, both right reins being above the left ones. However, unless a horse is bridle-wise this plan is not a convenient one, because the right and left reins alternate. A horse so trained may be guided by a turn of the wrist. To turn him to the left the hand should be moved in that direction, pressing the right reins against his neck, and to go to the right the hand should be carried to that side, the thumb turned downward, thus pressing the left reins against the horse's neck.
V
EMERGENCIES
Although she may ride in good form, and, when her horse goes quietly, feel at home in the saddle, no woman can be considered proficient until she is prepared for any emergency, and knows how to meet it.
Many horses show restlessness while being mounted, some carrying it to such an extent as to back and rear or swerve most unpleasantly. The groom at his head should hold him lightly but firmly by the snaffle, or, better still, the cheeks of the bridle; not lugging or jerking at him, but endeavoring to soothe him. If the horse swerves from her, he should be made to stand against a wall. The woman must get settled in the saddle as expeditiously as she can, not taking any unnecessary time in the arrangement of her skirt, which might augment the animal's uneasiness. Once mounted she must walk the horse quietly for a few minutes, using the snaffle only, as his restlessness may have come from expecting the spur on starting, as is customary with the horses of those who care for display rather than good manners. Before long she should dismount, and, at a different place, repeat the lesson without fighting him, even should he fail to show much progress at first. If he rears, the attendant should let go of his head until he comes down; then, before starting, try to make him stand a few moments. Each time the rider mounts she should increase the period of his standing, doing it firmly while talking to him, but without force or harshness, and presently he will obey as a matter of course and without an idea of resistance.
The most common fault of a horse is shying, and though no one who has a secure seat should be inconvenienced thereby, its treatment needs some discrimination. Shying often arises from defective vision. If, however, the animal's eyes are in good condition, it may come from timidity, but in either case the horse should be soothed and coaxed up to the object of his aversion and shown its harmlessness. If it is merely a trick, then playing with his mouth and speaking in a warning tone when approaching anything likely to attract his notice will usually make him go straight. As a rule the whip should not be used, because the horse may learn to associate a blow with the object he has shied at, and the next time he sees it is likely to bolt in order to avoid the impending chastisement—thus going from bad to worse.
For the same reason, I object to a horse being punished for stumbling. Disagreeable as it is, the fault usually comes from defective muscular action or conformation, or from not being kept collected by his rider. It is not fair to punish the horse for these causes. The thing to do is to sit well back and give the reins a sharp pull to bring his head up, and then keep him going up to the bit, for if the rider is careless the horse will follow her example.
A rearing horse is not fit for a woman to ride. If she finds herself on one which attempts it, she must throw her weight forward and a little to the right, because she can lean farther forward on this than on the left side, to help the horse preserve his balance, as well as to prevent being struck by his head. If necessary she can clutch his mane, but on no account must she touch his mouth in the slightest degree. As he comes down, a vigorous kick with the heel, a shake of the snaffle, and a harsh exclamation may send him along. I cannot advocate a woman's striking him, for if he has a temper, it may arouse it to such an extent that he will throw himself back.
Those with a strong seat have no reason to fear a horse that plunges, if it does not develop into rearing or bucking. They should sit close and urge the horse to a faster pace, as it stands to reason that if he is kept going briskly he cannot so easily begin his antics as he could at a slower gait.
A woman is seldom if ever required to ride a horse which bucks, and if he is known to do it viciously she had better not try any experiments with him, as he will surely exhaust her in a fight. By bucking I do not mean the mild form of that vice which is usually found under that name in the East. Here an animal that plunges persistently and comes down hard is said to buck; while if his head is lowered, that settles the question in the minds of those ignorant of what a real bucking horse is capable. In encountering the Eastern variety of this species, the woman must elevate the horse's head, sit well back, and firmly too, for even the mild form of bucking is not easy to sustain undisturbed.
The genuine article, the real Western bucker, is quite another matter. Newspapers have published instances of women who have managed to stay on one through all his various and blood-stirring antics; but such cases are in fact unknown outside of Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show, and there the animals have been taught to perform to order. When the bronco bucks, he gives no preliminary warning by harmless plunging; he simply throws his head down between his knees, humps his back like a cat, and proceeds to business. He jumps into the air, coming down to one side of where he started, with all four feet bunched and legs stiffened, only to bound into space again. An occasional squeal adds to the general hilarity of the scene, and the alacrity with which that meek-looking mustang can land and go into the air again would astonish one not accustomed to the sight.
In riding a puller, his head must be kept in a correct position, neither low nor high, by lightly feeling his mouth until he gives to the motion. Should he have his head up and nose out, elevating the hands and drawing the snaffle across the bars sometimes causes the bit to bear in such a manner that the horse will drop his nose, and at that moment an effort must be made to keep it there. This method is exceptional, however, and should be resorted to only when other means fail, and the horse's head is so high, with the nose protruding, that the bit affords no control. Ordinarily, the hands should be low, one on each side of the withers, and quietly feeling the snaffle until he obeys its signal.
If he pulls with his head down, almost between his knees, the curb must not be touched, but the snaffle should be felt and the hands held higher than usual and a little farther forward, playing with his mouth. This may make him raise his head; but if not, then several determined pulls, yielding the hand between them, given without temper and with a few soothing words, may stop him. If he has the bit between his teeth, quick give-and-take movements will probably surprise him into releasing it. It is useless for a woman to try to subdue him by force.
It is well to have a horse's teeth examined for pulling, as one which has become displaced or sensitive causes excessive pain, and often results in this habit. When a horse shows a tendency to kick, by putting his ears back or a peculiar wriggle of the body, his head must instantly be pulled up and kept there, for in that position he will not attempt it.
A runaway nearly always frightens a woman so that she loses her head. Composure will best enable her to escape without accident. As the horse starts she must keep her heel well away from his side and her hands down, and instantly begin sawing his mouth with the reins; then a succession of sharp jerks and pulls should be resorted to—never a dead pull—and possibly he may be brought down.
Once well in his stride, no woman can stop a horse. She must then be governed by circumstances, and, if in a crowd or park, try to keep him clear of all objects, and not exhaust herself and excite the horse by screaming. Some one will try to catch him; and as a terrific jerk will be the result, she must brace herself for it. If the horse runs where there is open country, and she is sure his running is prompted by vice, not fright, she should urge him on when he tires and keep him going up-hill or over heavy ground if possible, using the whip freely, and not permit him to stop until he is completely done.
There are some good riders who advise pulling a horse into a fence to stop him, but there is always a chance of his attempting to jump it, while, as the rider tries to prevent this, the horse may be thrown out of his balance or stride and fall over the fence. If he is driven at a high wall or other insurmountable obstruction the horse will stop so suddenly that the rider is likely to be precipitated over the animal's head, even if she have a good seat. Again, the horse may miscalculate the distance and run into the object, perhaps seriously hurting himself and his rider. If this method is to be employed, a grassy or sandy embankment should be chosen, if possible, as there will then be fewer chances of injury.
Others believe in throwing the horse, which may be done by letting him have his head for a few strides, then suddenly giving a violent tug at the reins. If he can thus be made to cross his legs, he will go down. Another way is for a woman to put all her strength into pulling one rein, and if she can use enough force he may be twisted so that he will lose his balance and fall. Then the danger is that a woman will not get clear of him before he regains his footing and starts off, in which case she might better have remained on his back than risk being dragged at his heels. If some one else's horse is running instead of the one she is on, and it is coming towards her, a woman should instantly, but quietly, wheel her horse, and keep him as much to one side of the road as possible; and if she is sure of her control over him, a brisk canter will be the safest gait. Thus, if the runaway strikes her horse, it will not be with the same force as it would had they met from opposite directions. Besides, it is almost impossible to tell which way a frightened horse may turn, and in endeavoring to avoid him, if they are facing, a collision may result.
If a horse falls, from crossing his legs for instance, to keep hold of the reins must be the first thought, and then to get clear of him as quickly as possible and out of his way if he seems likely to roll. If the rider retains her hold on the reins, he cannot kick her, as his head will be towards her; nor can he get away, leaving her to walk home.
Punishment of a horse should never be begun without the certainty that what has given displeasure is really his fault, wilfully committed. Even then a battle should always be avoided, if possible, for it is better to spend a half-hour, or even much more, gently but firmly urging a horse to obedience than to fight him. It sometimes drives him to such a state of excitement and temper that the effects of it will be perceptible for days, sometimes weeks, in a nervous, highly strung animal, and he will, perhaps, prepare for a combat whenever the same circumstances again arise. That which comes from misconception on the part of the horse is often treated as though it were vice, and such unjust chastisement, without accomplishing its object, bewilders and frightens the unfortunate victim. Therefore one should know positively that it is obstinacy or vice, not dulness or timidity, which has made the horse apparently resist his rider's authority. A horse with much temper may only be made worse by the punishment he undoubtedly deserves; therefore, forbearance and ingenuity should be exercised to bring him into submission. Discipline must be administered at the time of insubordination, or it loses its meaning to the horse. It is folly to postpone punishing him, for then he fails to connect it with the act of resistance which has provoked it.
Another great mistake, and one to be strongly censured, is that of venting one's impatience or temper on the poor brute, which may be doing its best to understand the clumsy and imperfect commands of a cruel taskmaster.
Having calmly decided that the horse requires punishment, it should be given in a firm and temperate manner, no more severity being employed than is necessary. However, the whip should fall with force and decision, or it is worse than useless; and if a moderate amount of whipping or spurring does not result in victory, it must be increased, as, once begun, the fight must end in the conquest of the animal, or the woman on his back will thenceforth be unable to control him. It must be done dispassionately and continuously, and no time allowed him to become more obstinate by a cessation of hostilities when he might be about to give in. At the first sign of yielding, he should be encouraged, and the punishment cease, until he has had an opportunity to do what is desired of him.
While using the whip, the right hand should never be on the reins, as that necessitates jerking the horse's mouth and hitting from the wrist, a weak and ineffectual method. The blow should fall well back of the saddle and with the force given by the full swing of the arm. A woman usually expends her energy in hitting the saddle-flap, making some noise, to be sure, but not producing the desired effect.
If these suggestions are followed, there will be comparatively little trouble in learning to properly handle a horse that he may be kept up to the mark. Until having laid a solid foundation for one's self, it is useless to hope to obtain the best results from the horse, which will surely appreciate and take advantage of any incompetency on the part of the rider. Even if not aspiring to more than ordinary park riding, attention to these hints will add so materially to the comfort and safety of both horse and woman that it will be a subject of wonder to the latter how she could have found the wrong way pleasant enough to admit of any hesitation in giving the correct one at least a fair trial.
VI
CHOOSING A MOUNT
Much of a woman's comfort will depend on the horse she chooses. She is too often inclined to procure a showy one, which pleases the eye, even though she cannot control his antics, rather than a trustworthy and less conspicuous mount.
In choosing a horse, she should not rely exclusively on her own judgment. Few women are aware of the artifices resorted to by dishonest dealers to render presentable some animal which in its natural condition she would at once reject; therefore she should enlist the services of some man in whose knowledge of horse-flesh she has reason to place confidence, and of whose disinterestedness she is certain. When a horse is found which appears to fulfil her requirements, she should insist upon a trial of him herself; for, although he may go well and comfortably with her friend, a woman might not possess the qualities which had assured success in the former trial by the man. The horse would recognize the difference, take advantage of her inexperience or lack of skill, and act as he would not think of doing under an expert. Furthermore, gaits which would suit a man are often too hard for a woman, and a horse which he might think merely went well up to the bit would to her weaker arms seem a puller.
After being approved of by her friend, the woman should try the animal herself, outside, alone and in company. If he proves satisfactory, she should endeavor to have him in her stable for a few days, and during that time to have him examined by a veterinary surgeon, obtaining his certificate of the horse's soundness. An animal absolutely sound and without blemish is a rare sight; but there are many defects which do not lessen the horse's practical value, although their presence lower his price, and may enable her to secure something desirable which would otherwise have been beyond her means.
Such a horse should be accepted only after a thorough examination by the veterinary, and upon his advice. It is well to avoid purchasing a horse from a friend, unless one is perfectly familiar with the animal, as such transactions frequently lead to strained relations, each thinking bitterly of the other. Some, having pronounced their horse sound, would take offence should a veterinary be called; while if he were not consulted the horse might go wrong, and the purchaser would perhaps think the former owner had disposed of him with that expectation, or at least knowing the probability of it, yet their social relations would prevent accusation or explanation. Furthermore, a difference of opinion as to the price is awkward, and altogether it requires more tact, discretion, and liberality than most people possess to make a satisfactory horse-trade with a friend.
Having decided as to whose advice she will take, a woman should not be influenced by the comments and criticisms of others. If she waits until all her friends approve of her choice she will never buy a horse. However, by listening to what the best informed of them say, she may gain much instruction and knowledge. As a woman may wish to know what points are desirable in a horse, and what to look for, a general idea of this may be welcome. It is only by comparison that she will learn to distinguish whether certain parts are long or short, normal or excessive, therefore she should critically notice horses at every opportunity, and observe in what they differ from one another.
If a woman could have a Park hack made to order, the following points would be the most prominent: A horse should always be up to more weight than he will have to carry; and as, in the Park, appearances are of importance, a woman should buy a horse on which she will look well. Much will depend upon her mount being of an appropriate size and build. A woman of medium size will look her best on a horse of about 15.2. No exact height can be fixed upon, as the present system of measurement is so incomplete.
A horse standing 15.2 at the withers, where it is always measured, may be much higher there than anywhere else, his quarters being disproportionately low. On the other hand, the withers might be low and the rump high, giving the strength, power, and stride to a horse of 15 hands which might be expected in one of several inches higher. In races and shows it enables low-withered horses to run and compete against those which, although high at the withers, have not the posterior conformation to justify their being in the same class. The more common-sense and accurate method of measurement, if it would only be generally adopted, is to take the height at the withers and also at the rump, average it, and call that the size of the horse. For instance, a horse 15.3 at the withers and 15.2 at the rump should be registered as measuring 15.2½. The fashionably bred trotting horse often measures higher at the rump than at the withers, while the properly proportioned saddle horse should measure as high, or highest, at the withers.
In a saddle horse there are other points than height to be considered. If the woman is stout, the horse should be of substantial build, very compact, and like a cob. If she is slight, she will look best on a horse of light build and possessed of quality.
In my opinion, three quarters, or a trifle more, thoroughbred blood makes the pleasantest mount for a woman. Five to seven is a good age at which to buy a horse, as he will then have been through the early ailments of young horses and be just entering his prime.
As to his points, his head should be small and clear-cut, with delicately pointed ears, prominent eyes, a fine muzzle, full nostrils, clean-cut angle at the throttle, and the head carried somewhat less than vertical to the ground; the crest curved, and the neck thin and supple, but muscular and well set on to broad shoulders. These should be long and oblique, thus reducing the concussion and making the horse easier to ride as well as safer, because his forelegs are proportionately advanced, giving less weight in front of them to cause a fall should he trip. The true arms (commonly called lower bones of the shoulders), extend from the points of the shoulders to the elbows, and should be short, or the forelegs will be placed too far back. The forearms, extending from the elbows to the knees, should be large and muscular and rather long. Broad, flat knees are indicative of strength, and they should have considerably more width than the forearms or the shanks.
Below the knees and to the fetlocks the legs should be rather short, flat, deep, and fine, no swelling to prevent one from feeling distinctly, especially near the fetlocks, the tendons and ligaments quite separate from the shanks or cannons and the splint-bones. The fetlock-joints much developed give evidence of overwork, therefore any undue prominence is not desirable. Long, slanting pasterns give elasticity to a horse's gait and prevent disagreeable concussion; but if the length is excessive, there will be too much strain on the back tendons. The fetlocks reach to the coronet, below which are the feet, which must be of good shape and absolutely sound.
The thorax must be either broad or deep and full, so that the lungs and heart may have plenty of room to expand. It should be well supplied with muscle where the forelegs are joined to it, and these should be straight, with the feet pointing straight ahead. The toe should be under the point of the shoulder. High withers are preferred to low ones, but if they are too high they place a side-saddle at an uncomfortable angle, which needs an objectionable amount of padding at the back to rectify the fault. The back should not sink perceptibly, but it may be somewhat longer in a woman's horse than in a man's, as her saddle occupies so much more space; but the ribs should be long in front and short back of the girth, running well up to the hips. This conformation will prevent the saddle from working forward; a tendency to slip back may be checked by using a breast-plate.
A horse should be broad across the loins; if these are strong, and the horse well ribbed up, there will be no unsightly sinking of the flanks even in front of hips that are broad, as they should be. The thighs extend from the lower part of the haunches or hips to the stifle-joints, and these and the haunches are covered with powerful muscles, which, when well developed, form strong quarters. A well-placed tail, carried at a correct angle, adds greatly to a horse's appearance. From the stifles to the hocks are found the lower thighs, and these should be long and strong. The hocks should be prominent, clearly defined, and free from all puffiness or swelling. From the hocks to the fetlocks the leg should descend perpendicularly, neither bent under him nor back of him. The same rule applies to these fetlocks as to the fore ones; and the same may be said of the feet, but the latter are too important to dismiss without further comment.
The hoofs when on the ground should be at an angle of about forty-five degrees from the toe to the coronet. Any unevenness or protrusions on the wall of the hoofs, or a sinking-in at the quarters, should be viewed with suspicion. Breadth is desirable at the heels, and the bars should not be cut away. The frog should be nearly on a level with the shoes, and the soles should be slightly concave.
If a hunter is to be chosen, looks are not of so much importance, although I like him to be almost if not quite thoroughbred. However, if the animal can gallop and jump, has good staying qualities and a strong constitution, a kind disposition and a light mouth, good manners and plenty of power, he should not be discarded because he lacks beauty. A large head, ewe neck, ragged hips, rat-tail, poor coat, and other such ungainly points, are not bad enough to condemn him if he has the other qualities I have mentioned; and often a peculiarly shaped animal will out-jump a horse of the most correct conformation.
After carefully looking over the horse, a woman should have some one trot and canter him, to see that his action is what she wants. A Park hack should have free, easy gaits, with good knee and hock action, and travel evenly and without brushing, cutting, interfering, dishing, or showing any such irregularities of gait. She should watch him from in front, from behind, and at the sides; and, after his trial by a man, the woman should ride him, and find out what his faults are under the saddle. His manners should be perfect: no sign of bolting, or rearing, or other vices; nor should he be a star-gazer, nor lug on the bit, as a good mouth is very essential to her comfort.
However, if he is green—that is, unaccustomed to his surroundings and to being ridden—he should not be rejected without a fair trial, to ascertain whether his cramped gait, shying, and other such failings are the result of inexperience under the saddle, or are established traits. The most desirable points are a light but not over-sensitive mouth, even gait, with swinging (not jerky or shuffling) action, a kind disposition—with which quality considerable friskiness need not condemn him—good manners, and freedom from tricks and vices. He should be practically sound and of correct conformation—a more valuable attribute for safety and ease than high action.
VII
DRESS
Simplicity is the rule for the habit. It should be of Thibet cloth—black, dark brown, or blue for winter, tan or a medium shade of gray for summer. All conspicuous colors and materials are to be avoided. It is well to have the skirt made of a heavy-weight cloth, which will help to make it set properly without the assistance of straps; while the bodice may be of a medium weight of the same cloth, that it may fit better and be less bulky. For very warm weather in the country a habit made of heavy gingham or white duck is cool and comfortable, and will wash. The skirt and bodice may be of the same material, or a silk or cheviot shirt and leather belt may be worn with the skirt. A straw sailor-hat completes this convenient innovation, but it should be reserved for use out of town.