Hunting a home in Brazil

Having made a pleasant voyage from New York, it was announced early on the morning of Tuesday, September 12th, 1865, that our vessel had passed Cape Frio, and that we were approaching the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. The rugged shore upon our right hand presented rather a dreary aspect, relieved now and then by a few scrubby trees, or the green foliage of vines springing from the crevices of the rocks. This mountainous rock-bound coast is very irregular in its outline; and the ocean, dashing against its base, throws the white foam of the waves high upon its sloping edge, then to break into spray, and fall back into roaring waters.

The guardians of the entrance consist of two conical islands of solid rock, known as Pai (father) and Mai, (mother.) Farther south there is another small island of rock, upon which stands a light-house to guide vessels approaching at night.

The indications for the mariner are so distinct, and the water so deep and free from obstructions at all points, that pilots are not required.

The gigantic and towering spire of rock, known as the Sugar Loaf mountain, first attracts attention in nearing the city, but all must realize that it fails signally in its resemblance to the conformation of a sugar loaf. In one position, when nearly opposite to it, as our vessel passed into the harbor, the proportions of a cone with a regularly defined outline were somewhat striking, but in all other situations it simply presented a huge peak of rock, upon the left of the immediate entrance to the city. There is also another conical peak upon the right side, and though not in exact opposition to this, they serve as immense pillars, constituting the portals of this maritime metropolis of the world.

The atmosphere had become sensibly cooler during the night, and it was observed in approaching the harbor that the thermometer had descended to 70° Fahrenheit, for the first time during the voyage. The temperature from 20° north latitude, to 20° south latitude, varied from 80° to 85°, but it has gradually fallen since passing 20° south latitude, until now, in 22° 56′ and west longitude 43° 09′, we have the very comfortable temperature above mentioned. Early this morning my overcoat was found very agreeable, and this state of the atmosphere is in striking contrast to all the representations ever received as to the climate of this region. Indeed, the temperature has not been oppressive at any time during the voyage, except for a few days after leaving New York; and instead of the sultry atmosphere which was anticipated in passing the equator, a pleasant breeze was at all times prevailing. It is highly probable that this influence of the sea-breeze may not be so sensibly felt in the city and harbor of Rio, which is locked in by mountains upon every side, except the narrow entrance to the harbor between the lofty cliffs.

Upon approaching this gorge-like opening of the mountains from the sea, we get a distant view of the shipping, and that portion of the city immediately upon the margin of the water.

A large fort called Fortaleza da Conceicão is seen upon the right, projecting out boldly into the water, while on the left an extensive range of neat and commodious barracks is seen at a considerable distance, between two elevated projections formed of land and rock. Upon getting opposite the fort, an officer upon the ramparts called out to know from what port our vessel came. The captain replied, “From New York.” The officer called again, “How long out?” to which the captain answered, “Fifty-one days.” The call was made through a trumpet, and our flag being English,^[1] the language corresponded to the supposed nationality of the vessel; but I confess that it would have required good guessing to divine what was said, and the captain’s answers were made according to his preconceived idea of the questions that would be asked at this place.

We now observed ahead two other forts, one to the right having the appearance of being formed from the solid stone, while the other on the left seemed to be constructed of hewn stone. Each of these works had quite a number of guns of small calibre placed in barbette, while the large fort was arranged with casemates, as well as embrasures in the ramparts.

In addition to these structures for the defence of the harbor, there were several works visible upon the cliffs on either side, which might serve to annoy, and even damage, the vessels of a fleet, without being in any way liable to injury from the hostile guns. The known efficacy of a plunging shot could be brought into operation from these elevated positions, while the gunners would not only have exemption, by the difficulty of elevating guns to reach such a height, but are effectually protected against an enfilading fire by the peaks of solid rock which flank these works on each side.

Our bark came to anchor shortly after passing the forts, when a custom-house officer and an officer of the police came aboard, to get the manifest of the vessel and report of her passengers. We gave up our passports and reported our baggage, with the understanding that it had to be taken to the custom-house for examination, previous to its going ashore.

This official, who examined our passports, could not converse in English, yet asked each man if he was single, which I supposed was to elicit information whether there was any one under his charge on the bark, and answered in the affirmative. The captain, observing the mistake, stated that he desired to know whether I was single or married, when my entry was changed to correspond to the responsibilities of a family. These officials were very polite in their demeanor towards us, and shook hands with all upon leaving.

The captain now had his boat lowered and took the other passengers and myself with him to the city. It being late in the afternoon, and nearly two miles to the wharf, our four oarsmen had a stiff pull, to take us with that despatch which was desired, to secure time for business on shore.

We passed through the shipping which lay in the outer bay, and immediately past the guard-ship, so that it might be seen that nothing was taken ashore in the boat. Upon nearing the wharf, we encountered a large number of small boats manned by negroes or Portuguese, and a few by the sailors from the different vessels in the harbor.

Before leaving the bark, it should be mentioned that several boats came along side with cards from the respective ship chandlers, which they were very intent upon delivering to the captain, with an invitation to take a seat in the boat for a row to the city. One of these was from the firm of Baldwin & Co., with which he expected to deal, and at which we stopped a short time after going ashore. Mr. Baldwin had left the city for a visit to Baltimore, and we were told that his impression was, that an honest man ought not to continue in this branch of business. The house however seems to be well supplied with the various articles usually needed aboard of ships, and it is likely that persons needing to purchase any thing in this line may do so on as favorable terms here as elsewhere in the city of Rio.

From this place, which is very near the wharf, we proceeded with the captain to the house of Phipps Brothers & Co., on Rua Pescadores, who are the consignees of his cargo. The young men in the office spoke English, and were very accommodating in giving us information in regard to various matters outside of their business. We learned that Colonel Clarey from the city of Baltimore had arrived in this city a few days previous, and it was supposed that he was still here. But we were subsequently informed that he had left the city, and proceeded by way of Santos to the city of São Paulo.

In passing through this business part of the city, several negro men were seen with little else than a cloth around their loins, carrying immense burdens; while negro women were seated upon the side-walks with the body of a chemise as the only covering above their waists. These women were engaged in traffic of various kinds, and seemed to be as entirely unconscious of any undue exposure as we would suppose Eve was, originally, in the garden of Eden.

The captain had some Brazilian money, and made a very satisfactory trade with one of these women, getting three oranges for a dump, which is equal to two cents, and bought enough to give us all a good bait of this delicious fruit. I had a United States twenty-five cent coin, for which she was only willing to allow me eight dumps or sixteen cents, but I declined her proposition, and afterwards got ten dumps or twenty cents for my quarter of a dollar,^[2] and invested a portion of it forthwith in oranges. It is one of my weak points to have an inordinate fondness for oranges, and this fruit being unusually fine in Rio, and very cheap, I expect to consume a large number daily. Bananas are also very abundant and very cheap; but it is not the season for pine-apples, and the few here are held at high prices, even as much as fifty cents each.

I was struck with the large strings of onions that were seen hanging in almost every part of the market, and was told that they are shipped to the port from Portugal in immense numbers, though the soil and climate of Brazil is said to be well adapted to their production. Those things which grow here in great abundance, without work, satisfy the wants of the lower class of people, and they do not care to devote their energies to tilling the soil.

The streets of Rio de Janeiro, in the business portion of the city, through which we passed, are for the most part very narrow, and having a depression in the middle to serve as a drain. It is difficult for two carts or other vehicles to pass each other, and on one occasion we had to enter the door of a store to avoid contact with the wheels, when two carts were passing in one of these narrow defiles leading to the store of Phipps Brothers & Co. In going to this place, however, we passed through Rua da Direita, which is at this portion perhaps the broadest street in the city, and upon this is located the business palace and the church of the Emperor, Dom Pedro II.

In front of these buildings is an open plaza, with a fountain of water on the opposite side, at which persons may be seen almost constantly filling their vessels with the pure and limpid fluid, that is conveyed by an aqueduct from the hills outside of the city.

This plaza is constantly occupied with carriages and hacks for hire, and there are also quite a number of two-wheeled tilburys, having accommodation for but one person beside the driver. Mules are generally driven in these vehicles, two to the former, and one to the latter, and while they are used almost exclusively in all public equipages, it is not uncommon to see a fine pair of mules likewise in an elegant private carriage.

The mules here present a fine appearance, being of large size and having good action, with apparently more life and spirit than the mules with us in the United States. This however is accounted for by the comparatively light service which is done by them, which came under my observation during this afternoon.

I observed that horses are also used in private equipages and for the saddle, but they did not strike me as being of superior quality. There was a number of fancy-colored horses of rather small size, in single harness, and they seemed to be compact, hardy animals, with good action, and fine spirit. They belong doubtless to the stock of wild horses captured in the plains of Buenos Ayres or in the lower provinces of Brazil, yet I had no opportunity of instituting an inquiry as to their origin.

Among the many vehicles seen in the streets of Rio de Janeiro I observed nothing like the buggy which is in common use in the United States; and the two-wheeled, one horse tilbury is so much better adapted to narrow streets and short turns that it is not likely that it will find a rival soon in the four-wheeled buggy of modern invention.

Omnibuses or “diligencia” are seen moving to and fro with great activity, and this progressive feature of a business people is evidently in successful operation, with the usual advantages accruing to a large number of customers, over that of carriages and tilburys, which are only hired by the few for transportation to a special point. The large number of negroes that are seen upon the streets, both male and female, with the marks of tattooing upon their cheeks, and in the persons of the females with fancy figures on their arms, indicates that the African slave-trade has been carried on with this country very actively at a comparatively recent period. Most of them appear strong and active, while many are not exceeding twenty-five years of age. The men were employed in such business as we might expect slaves to do, but most of the women were selling fruit or trafficking in other little dainties, as if they might be free.

I learn that it is a common thing here for a number of slaves to hire their time, and form a combination together to work out their freedom. It is decided by lot who is first made free, and the order in which the others are found, and yet all are bound to remain together and contribute all that is received into the common treasury, until the last is liberated.^[3] This is among the men, and I don’t know that any such arrangement has been adopted by the women.

Upon returning to our boat, we had a view of the line of ferry boats, which has been introduced here, upon the same plan as that adopted at New York and elsewhere in the United States. A gentleman from North Carolina named Rainey organized a company here some years ago, and has brought out two double-enders from New York for this service, which run from the city proper across to Nitherohi and other points. Their trips are made with great regularity every half hour, accommodating a large number of people.

After returning from the city last night, my overcoat was found comfortable, and a blanket was used for covering during the night. The temperature this morning is very pleasant upon the water, it being 72° by Fahrenheit’s thermometer.

Having learned from Phipps & Co. that a vessel was expected to leave to-morrow for Baltimore, I made an addition to a letter written on yesterday to my wife, and putting a United States postage stamp upon it, I gave it to these gentlemen to be forwarded by the captain of the vessel.

Upon inquiry for letters at the post-office this morning, I was handed a long list of written names with the simple announcement “English” by the clerk. This implied that these persons had letters in the office, which had come through English mail, but most of the names were either Portuguese or Spanish, and very few really English. My own not being on the list, it was inferred that no letter had arrived for me. As I had left home upon the 26th of June, and gone by way of New Orleans to New York, occupying an entire month before leaving the latter port, there had evidently been sufficient time for any communication that might have been sent direct, to reach this city in advance of my arrival.

I must encounter many difficulties in my intercourse with the people of this country, from the ignorance of their language, and my objects in the line of business will be to some extent embarrassed; but there being a good many people here who speak both English and Portuguese, it may be in my power to obtain an interpreter when needed.

Having letters from Colonel A. V. Brumly to Mr. M. Tweedle and Mr. Robert Habersham, who I expected to find employed in the engineer department of the Dom Pedro II. Railroad Co., I repaired to their building, and was pleased to find that Major Ellison, chief engineer,^[4] and his brother, also employed in this office, were both from the United States. I learned that Mr. Tweedle had left the road and the country long since, and that Mr. Habersham was in charge of the construction section sixteen miles above the terminus of the present track. As I wish to see the country along the line of this road and on its projected route, I hope at a future day to make a visit to Mr. Habersham.

I was referred to Mr. G. N. Davis, No. 92 Rua da Direita, for directions to the office of Senor Don Galvão, the official agent of colonization, and when he was informed as to my wishes, I was pleased to hear his proposition to accompany me whenever it might suit me to make the visit. Mr. Davis also said that he could provide a room over his store for Mr. Mallory and myself, and we will eat at the restaurants, until something further can be learned as to our movements.

I met to-day at the store of Baldwin & Co. Dr. Henry C. Bosworth, who gave me information in regard to various matters of interest, and tendered his services at any time that he could be of any assistance to me. He is from the United States, and practised dentistry in this city for a number of years very successfully, but has now retired from that business, and has an interest in the ferry company, which promises to be a very profitable investment.

It is the impression of Mr. Mallory that Dr. Bosworth will render him very important aid in getting into business, and from his courteous manner, and his general intelligence, I would expect him to have considerable influence among the people and the officials of this country.

We were likewise introduced to a Mr. Smith, who came from Virginia some five years since, and has been engaged here in railroad contracts, which he says have proved advantageous to him. He accompanied us to one of the public gardens of the city, where we saw a variety of rare birds, among which were a pair of large white swans and a large black swan, with some water-fowls of a beautiful red hue and very graceful form. In the fish-pond we were told there was an immense specimen of what is known as the ox fish, that feeds upon cabbage and various other vegetables; but it did not come to the surface, and the water being muddy at the time, we failed to get a sight of this curiosity.

Mr. Smith now has a contract with the city improvement company, who are employed by the government to arrange sewers, for all parts of the city, by underground drains, which shall take every thing to receivers at the margin of the water, and there undergo a process of disinfection and purification.^[5] In connection with this, it is contemplated, likewise, to construct a privy upon each man’s premises, whether he may desire it or not, and thus make amends for the total neglect of this household arrangement in by-gone years and even at the present time.

As a substitute for privies, chamber-pots or wooden stands of various forms and capacities are used in all the private and public houses of the city. These are emptied daily or at stated periods, and the contents carried by negroes in wooden cans, upon their heads, after dark, and emptied into the harbor. By the use of coal tar in the vessels kept in the houses any unpleasant odor is to a great extent prevented; yet the whole programme is disgusting, and the people may well congratulate themselves upon the new order of things which is inaugurated by this city improvement company. At present it is a common practice for men of all classes of society to urinate upon the side-walks, in the most fashionable and most frequented streets of the city, and the stench in passing some of the recesses that are most frequently resorted to is such, that it is a matter of surprise to learn that there is no public ordinance forbidding this offensive nuisance.

We returned in the evening with the captain, and found the atmosphere more pleasant upon the water than in the crowded thoroughfares of the city. I was particularly struck with the beautiful display of the gas-lights of the city, as seen from the deck of our bark. The precise and distinct lines of light along the margins of the water formed a pleasing contrast with the irregularities of the winding ways upon the hillsides, and the dazzling points to be seen here and there in the private grounds. To appreciate fully the rare beauty of this view, it is proper to state that the city of Rio de Janeiro was originally located in a cove, that is surrounded by elevated hills, and these again having a bordering range of mountain cliffs.

At the present day all these lesser hills are occupied by residents, and here many of the finest houses and most tasteful grounds of the city are arranged, one above another, to the very summit of these elevations. It is upon these slopes that the gas-lights present such an interesting display, when viewed in the quietness of night from the shipping in the harbor. The lamps upon the vessels, moving gently to and fro under the swelling of the waves, are seen in every direction around, like so many fire-flies filling the air; but the glittering lights of the city present more the aspect of brilliant constellations, and were viewed with that kind of satisfaction which is felt in looking upon the firmament in a clear night. While I sat upon a coil of rope contemplating this scene, the deep-toned bells of the city sent forth a sound, that was faintly echoed by the numerous bells of the many vessels striking the passing hour; and apart from this, all was serene and quiet in the bay and city.

The busy stir of vehicles upon land, and the moving hither and thither of boats of all grades upon the water, which is so characteristic of this centre of commerce and trade during the day, all ceases at night; and rest or recreation is the recourse of the laborer and man of business, while for the student comes meditation.

We expected to move into the city to-day; and being advised that my cans of tomatoes, peaches, and pickles, with some tobacco, which had been brought from New York, might not pass through the custom-house unless they were included in my baggage, I put all into my mess-chest. These articles had been procured with the expectation that they would be required on the voyage, and finding the vessel well supplied, very little had been used; yet I wished to retain them for use in exploring the country, where provisions might be scarce, and hence declined to accept the offer of the captain to buy them for the bark. Upon entering the custom-house with these things, and foreseeing the importance of having these matters understood by the officers in advance of their examination, I requested Mr. Hagins, who does business with Mr. Davis, to proceed with me to the custom-house and represent the facts. He gave them to understand that the articles were not for sale, but for my own consumption, and, after some difficulty, arranged the matter without any charge for duty or the imposition of any fine for violation of regulations.

We moved into the room in the third story above the store of Mr. G. N. Davis, which is rather contracted in proportions, but has the recommendation of being well ventilated, and having a water view from the windows.

The apparent ease with which my heavy mess-chest was carried up three flights of stairs surprised me. It was a good lift for two of us to get it from the bark to the small boat, and yet this African negro carried it upon his head from the custom-house and up the stairs without any inconvenience; for which service I was told that two dumps, or four cents, was considered a proper compensation.

It is a peculiarity of this city, that burdens are generally carried by the negroes upon their heads.^[6] A large and heavy piece of furniture will very often be carried upon the heads of four or six negro men, who keep the step together by chanting or by tapping a bell. They usually have upon their heads a piece of cloth rolled up after the turban style, which prevents the direct contact of the hard substance that is carried. The ordinary receptacle for a number of articles to be carried is a large, flat wicker-basket, with a concavo-convex bottom, which fits upon the head; and they move along with quite a load in these baskets, giving no assistance whatever with the hands. In some instances they are seen plaiting straw, or sewing up the material in the form of a hat, while carrying these loads; which indicates a spirit of industry that was scarcely to be expected of the negro race. I am informed that the greater portion of the negroes doing this kind of business are slaves, who hire their own time, and all is for their personal benefit.

We dined at a restaurant, and our bill of fare consisted of pork cutlet, beefsteak, potted beef, fried Irish potatoes, salad, cucumbers, and coffee, with bread of excellent quality. For dessert, we had marmalade, oranges, and bananas, making, together, a most substantial dinner. The cost for both of us was one dollar and seventy-five cents, which, being eighty-seven and a half cents each, was rather more expensive living than our pecuniary resources would warrant. I had not spent any thing, however, in getting ashore, and having done more physical labor than usual, my appetite called for something extra, and it was enjoyed.

After dining, we found that night was approaching, and the gas-lights were already emitting their brilliancy upon the streets. We walked down to the open space provided with seats in front of the Circle de Commerce, upon Rua da Direita, and seated ourselves, for the purpose of observing the manners and customs of the people. I was impressed with the genteel bearing of those who resorted to this rendezvous; and quite a large number of well-dressed gentlemen were seated here, or walking about the open pavement between the seats and the buildings, who gave a favorable indication of the physical characteristics of the better class of men. A very fine equipage, with a white driver in livery, stopped near the seat we occupied, and a gentleman and lady, with their daughter, as we supposed, alighted from it, all dressed with much neatness and even elegance. They passed through the fancy confectionery store below, and ascended to the upper story of the building, where ice-creams, &c., are served in magnificent style to visitors.

It is very seldom that a Brazilian lady is seen upon the streets of Rio during the day, which is in part to avoid the scrutiny of men, and perhaps, also, to obviate the embarrassment of seeing those same men under circumstances not very becoming for observation. The heat of the sun during the day is likewise doubtless a reason why the women remain within doors, and they find the temperature of the night air more pleasant for exercise. The number of ladies from other regions of the world, that are now residing in Rio, is beginning to make some changes in the habits of the sex; as English women or French women go out upon the street whenever business or inclination calls them to take a walk or a ride in the city. The custom here has been that of great seclusion among all classes as to their women; but the more intelligent and refined Brazilians are learning that a different course is the true policy for the promotion of the true character of woman.

I had no means of knowing whether the party referred to were natives or foreigners; but their style indicated refinement and good taste. Their carriage was of the most fashionable make, with accommodations for four persons within, and a broad front seat for driver and footman. The upper part of the body was of open cane-work, and the entrance on either side wide, so as to give a light and airy appearance to the vehicle. The livery of the driver and footman was of blue cloth, with silver lace upon the collar, and a high, slick hat of enamelled leather with a band of silver. The team in this instance, as in most of the fine turnouts of the fashionables, was a pair of fine mules; and really these slick and lively animals, being of full size and well proportioned, present here a better appearance than horses.

This promenade is one of the few places of resort for those who do not go to the theatre and opera; and though there is a hotel and an ice-cream saloon here, there is no special entertainment for the numerous visitors that come and go in the course of an evening.

So far as I have been able to learn from others, balls and parties of a public character are not frequent in this city; and indeed the whole constitution of society is opposed to this kind of promiscuous assemblage of the sexes.

There are several large establishments for theatrical performances, and also opera houses, suited to the different classes of people. The Emperor considers it a matter of sufficient interest to sustain and patronize these places of recreation, and I am informed that he frequently attends in person accompanied by his family. His object is doubtless to promote what he esteems the happiness of his people, and not from any idea that they will be thus diverted, so as to prevent their minds from being directed into mischievous channels.

The pacific character of this people, and their great proneness to adhere to an existing state of things in all the departments of life, with their general admiration for the noble traits of the Emperor, affords a guarantee for the stability of this empire, independent of its constitution and laws.

I called this morning, with Mr. Mallory, at the office of Major Pedro Latão da Cunha, Secretary in the Naval Bureau, to whom he presented his testimonials of qualification for service in the Ordnance Department. This gentleman speaks the English language, and seems to take considerable interest in promoting his wishes. He advised him to draw up an application to the government, setting forth his former services, and what duty he desired to enter upon here, and proposed to present it with his recommendation to the Minister of State.

Upon making an inquiry as to the practicability of being employed in the Hospital Department as a surgeon, after completing my investigations in the country, he expressed a favorable opinion; and stated that it would be desirable that I should draw up a paper indicating the nature of the public service in which I had been engaged, and the position I would like to occupy here.

He proposed to take this likewise in his special charge, and to use his influence to advance my wishes. It had not been my intention to make an application for any position under the Brazilian government at this time; but since this gentleman manifests such an accommodating spirit, I may find it convenient to undertake for a time some duty connected with military hospitals, near the seat of war, and thus see something more of the country towards the south.

After closing this interview, I repaired to the store of Mr. G. N. Davis, and he accompanied me to the office of Senor Don J. C. Galvão, No. 23 Rua Dos Ciganos. This gentleman also speaks English very well, and received me with great respect.

He heard my statement of the projected move of myself and my friends to Brazil with evident interest; and exhibited to me maps of the country, with records of lands owned by the government, and also descriptions of improved farms of private parties, which were offered for sale.

The price of public lands ranges from twenty-two cents to eighty-eight cents per acre, to those making an independent purchase. To those without the means of buying land, or of supporting themselves separately, one hundred and fifty acres of land will be provided, under the regulations of the government, in one of their colonies—to be paid for at the rate of one dollar and thirty-three cents per acre, one-third at the end of two years, one-third at the end of four years, and the last third at the end of six years.

The family are to be furnished with agricultural implements free of charge, and to be allowed one dollar a day for six months for each adult, with transportation from Rio to the colony free of cost. As yet there has been no advance of funds by the government of Brazil to bring emigrants from the United States to this country; though a small proportion of the outlay for transportation of emigrants from Europe has been borne, with a view to assist those who would not otherwise have the means of getting to Brazil. There is already, in Rio, an establishment to which those without means are sent to be lodged and boarded free of expense, until they can be forwarded to a colony. In these government colonies roads are opened, houses of small size are built, and churches, schools, priests, and a director are provided; but if it is the desire of the colonists to furnish their own schools and churches, it is not here prohibited; yet, if the churches are other than those of the Roman Catholic religion, they cannot be built with a steeple or other ostensible indication of a house of worship. Mirabile dictu!

I stated to Dom Galvão that there were many people of good standing in the southern portion of the United States, who were able to provide land and the means of subsistence for themselves, and yet would find great inconvenience in affecting the transportation across the ocean, unless some systematic means of assistance could be devised by the Brazilian government. There will be also persons, doubtless, desirous of coming to Brazil, whose means are very much reduced, and yet their former associations in life would render them desirable companions to those having more resources; and if those without means could receive the assistance extended to the colonists by the government, and yet be allowed to join their friends in a settlement of their own, it would materially facilitate their location in this country.

If the Brazilian government will render the same aid to our emigrants who are without means that has been extended to her own colonists, it would find at the end of six months that all further outlay or responsibility was unnecessary; and these people would co-operate with those having resources, to build up and make useful all the industrial enterprises of the settlement.

To furnish lands at the lowest practicable rate, and construct public highways, without any duty upon importations, are at present proposed by the government of Brazil, as encouragement to emigration.

Dom Galvão proposed to represent my views upon the subject of emigration to the Minister of Agriculture, and expressed his conviction that some practicable scheme would be devised to effect our object of being associated together, under regulations that would be satisfactory to all concerned.

Mr. Davis called with me also to see Mr. Milford, Acting Consul of the United States, by whom I was courteously treated, and informed that a large body of land had been intrusted to his charge, located near the Dom Pedro II. railroad. He stated that papers were in his possession giving full particulars of its nature and resources, and that they might be seen by calling at his office, No. 28 Rua Del Alfandega.

I was then presented to Mr. James, No. 15 Rua da Direita, and had a conversation with him as to the settlement of Dr. Blue and others, near the Bay of Paranagua. He informed me that Mr. Wells, of St. Louis, had gone on a visit to that locality, and was expected to return in a few days, when all available information might be had from him. I had requested Dom Galvão to make arrangements for me to visit that region, but no further steps will be taken until I hear the report of Mr. Wells.

There are some private interests involved, which have enlisted parties as advocates of the lands in the vicinity of the Bay of Paranagua; and I doubt whether it is desirable to look at a country where those expecting to speculate in lands have already made investments with a view to sell again.

Learning from Mr. James that Mr. Wells had returned to the city, I accepted his offer to give me an introduction to him. He gave me the particulars of the bay, and the river extending up from it, with an account of the recent settlements near that place, conveying rather a favorable idea of the surroundings of the Bay of Paranagua; yet I found that he was not so favorably impressed as to think of making his home there.

I concluded accordingly that it would not perhaps suit as a location for me and my friends; and that the advantages of other localities would be investigated without visiting this place at present.

Having heard from several disinterested persons that the province of São Paulo combined fertility of soil and adaptation especially to the culture of coffee, with a pleasant and healthy climate, I was inclined to think very favorably of that region. Upon an examination of its outline on the map it was found that it extended sufficiently towards the north to afford all the tropical fruits, and that its southern limit would secure a mitigation of heat, without being exposed to much frost during the winter, lying between 19° 38′ and 25° 39′ south latitude.

Under these circumstances I withdrew my application for transportation to the Bay of Paranagua, and asked Dom Galvão to arrange for a visit to the province of São Paulo.

He had been down to see me, and not finding me in, had left a paper, embodying modifications of the regulations pertaining to emigrants, which are intended to carry out my views. Upon having this document, written in Portuguese, translated by Mr. Hagins, it did not seem very definite or satisfactory, and I will confer with the author in person, when we meet again on Monday at his office. Then I will get more precise information as to the points submitted in this paper, and can determine whether any practical benefit is likely to accrue from the acceptance of his propositions.

Mr. Mallory and myself were expected at the office of Major Pedro Latão da Cunha, at 11 o’clock a. m., but, failing to have the papers in readiness, we did not reach there until after 12 o’clock, when he had left, and we were fully conscious of our dereliction. As we returned, however, he hailed us from the opposite side of the street; and on speaking with him, we found that he had been to learn the cause of our failure to meet him. This made us notice the great importance of promptness and punctuality in keeping our appointments with officials. He proposed that we should call at his office on Monday at 12 o’clock, when he would go with us to see the Minister of State, and endeavor to have our applications acted upon forthwith.

Though there is no special consequence attached to the disposition that is made of mine, it is of great moment to Mr. Mallory to get a speedy and favorable response to his application.

My understanding with different parties as to matters of business, indicates that I may, in a short time, ascertain definitely something as to the lands that may be available; and learn further my future relations to this government.

In compliance with a previous understanding, Mr. Mallory and myself went immediately after breakfast to Captain Buhlaw’s quarters, on one of the highest hills in the city, whence he and his wife accompanied us to the museum. This visit was made to-day, as we were informed that it was open only upon Sundays.

We examined a very extensive collection in the departments of Ornithology and Herpatology, with a fair assortment of minerals, of which the specimens of native diamond engaged my special attention. There was a very interesting variety of coins of different nations, and also some specimens of paper money, among which I observed a one dollar ($1.00) greenback note, and others of smaller denomination of the United States currency. These certainly have very little claim to a place among coins, except as curiosities.

In the collection of fishes, I observed a very badly-prepared specimen of flying fish, and were it not for the great interest my friends will take in one preserved by me on the voyage across the water, it might be presented to this museum, so that the characteristics of this truly remarkable phenomenon could be appreciated.

Among the various specimens of cotton, those from the United States had precedence; yet there are several samples of cotton grown in Brazil which are nearly as good as those grown in the Southern States, and with proper culture this staple will doubtless be still more improved, as the climate is thought to be well adapted to its production.

There was quite a number of very fine specimens of coffee, the best of which were marked as being produced in Brazil. There is a great difference in the appearance of the samples from various sections of this country; and this goes to confirm the idea that many brands of coffee receive their names from the merchants here, or at the points to which they are imported. Persons of fastidious taste may thus have Mocha, Java, Laguayra, &c., &c., all coming from Rio, and yet leave a larger proportion to bear the appropriate name of this place. I know from personal experiment on one occasion, that deception in this respect is not difficult. Three specimens of coffee—the Mocha, Java, and Rio, so called—were all served in my house to a party of friends, and the vessels containing each specially noted by my wife. After the experiment of each, all the party concurred in pronouncing that which was known only to her to be Rio coffee as the best of the three; and were quite surprised when told that they had overlooked the supposed fine qualities of the other specimens. If they had been informed in advance what name was borne by each pot of coffee, doubtless the antipathy to Rio coffee would have manifested itself by condemning this article. But not knowing the quality contained by either of them, the verdict was rendered according to their real taste; and acting upon the suggestion, a bag of this was purchased, that proved to be really excellent coffee. I have met an Englishman here who says they don’t drink Rio coffee in London, and yet I am told that large cargoes are shipped to England.

After concluding our observations of the cabinet specimens, we made a tour of the general and special curiosities that are here gathered from all parts of the world. Several Egyptian relics in the form of mummies are here exhibited, and various antiquarian souvenirs from Pompeii^[7] and other places of historic fame. Many very showy garments used by the Indians of this country in by-gone days, and their implements for the capture of game, or for purposes of war, were presented for our examination and admiration.

I was quite interested in an immense living eagle, that attracted attention by frequently uttering a most harsh squall; and while other specimens of large birds show what they have been, this affords a present exemplification of vigorous animated existence. From the remnant of a chicken seen in the cage, I infer that the daily bill of fare is quite costly.

After leaving the museum, I went with Captain Buhlaw and his wife, in an omnibus, out on the line of railroad towards Tijuca, for a distance of four miles, and saw along the way many things of interest. This seems to be the most desirable portion of the suburbs of the city for the residences of private families, whose business does not confine them to the more densely populated streets. There is much taste displayed in some of the buildings and yards, and several really elegant improvements have been recently completed. The dwellings have, for the most part, large gardens attached, with a combination of the useful and ornamental, in the plants and shrubbery, rendering them quite attractive.

The majestic palm tree is seen standing in quiet dignity amidst the more unpretending and yet more useful growths of orange, banana, mamon, and the ajaca. This valley, lying between the mountain ridges on either side, is a level plain, with a clear stream of water running throughout its entire length. Much of the territory is not yet built up, and the lots are offered for sale by posting placards upon them, with the Portuguese words, Vende—se. This precinct is to the city of Rio de Janeiro what the vicinity of Central Park was to New York before its improvements were completed; and the day is not far distant when this route to Tijuca will become the most charming residence around the city. The soil seems to be well suited to the growth of vegetables, and I observed that they were receiving more systematic culture here than elsewhere, being grown, doubtless, for the market.

As the line of railroad to the small retreat of Tijuca is merely for the accommodation of persons residing there, and along the route, it affords most convenient and prompt transportation at stated hours, and thus makes the distance a matter of small moment to those living in this region.

Having learned that there would be preaching to-night at the Episcopal church, which is the only service in the English language in the city, I got directions to the place, and Mr. Mallory and I set out in search of it. By the use of an extemporized phrase of Portuguese, “Onde está Ygreza Ingliza?” I was enabled to find the house of worship. The service had already commenced when we arrived, and it gave an entirely orthodox exposition of the plan of salvation. The minister urged the acceptance of the Lord Jesus Christ, as our Saviour, upon all who had not yet laid hold of the promises of the gospel.

After leaving a land of Protestantism, and coming into this Roman Catholic country, it is very refreshing and edifying to be once more associated with Christians who hold the same great cardinal doctrines of faith with myself. This building is a plain substantial meeting-house, with none of the outward show of a church, and the interior presenting a neat but unostentatious appearance. There was quite a peculiar arrangement of the pulpit, at a considerable distance from the rear wall of the house, and elevated so as to require a sort of stairway for the ascent of the minister. The congregation was small, but consisting of genteel-looking persons; and, from their physiognomy, I concluded them to be chiefly English people, and certainly none of the Portuguese race. The minister impressed me very favorably by his simplicity of manner.

Notwithstanding that Mr. Mallory has been raised as a Roman Catholic, he remarked that this form of worship was more in accordance with his views of Christianity than the parade which he observed in the Catholic churches of this city; and that he expected to attend service with the Episcopalians, at this church, during his stay here. I find that none of our Catholics seem to have a favorable impression of the piety of their brethren of the church in this city; and they, consequently, manifest no inclination to hold fellowship with them in their ostentatious worship.

The demonstrations witnessed to-day in Rio show an utter disregard for the solemnity of the Sabbath. A large body of volunteers in holiday uniform, with a band of thirty musicians, were encountered early this morning upon one of the principal streets. In the next place, quite a number of soldiers, with their guns, badges, and flags, were seen assembled in a most gorgeous church, for the celebration of high mass. This ceremony was conducted with great pomp by the priest, and a large number of dignitaries held lighted candles of most enormous proportions, forming a concourse around the altar, which again was lighted up by hundreds of candles, though it was in open day, with a clear bright sun shedding its rays on all who would enjoy the light which God has given.

As we went in search of the English church this evening, we found a large assemblage of persons in a public garden, drinking in groups at tables arranged for the purpose, while a band was entertaining the party with music, from a stand erected for their special accommodation.

Immediately adjoining this garden was a building, in which a circus was performing, and we could hear the applause and laughter, such as might be expected at a farce or comic exhibition.

The day seems to be regarded rather as a holiday for amusement, and yet many of the business houses are kept open during the Sabbath, and there is no law of the country requiring its observance as a day of rest from labor, or to be kept holy to the Lord.

A great many of the people attend mass in the forenoon of Sunday, and then join in any recreation that may be presented. It seems that the theatres and opera houses regard Sunday evening as specially suited to attract a large number of persons, and usually have their most attractive pieces on such occasions.

In returning to-night from preaching, a large assemblage of negroes was observed immediately upon the side of the street, and, upon entering the building, we found it was a church for the exclusive use of the black people. Here many were kneeling in front of the altar, while some service was held by one of their own color; and, at a side stand, there was another black personage, who furnished applicants with a small printed paper, upon the payment of two coppers of the value of four cents. Mr. Mallory said these were no doubt indulgences for some sin committed, and the trade seemed to be going on prosperously. There were no seats in this building, and those who did not kneel sat flat upon the floor, as I have observed to be the case in all the services, when they did not stand. The churches do not have seats, and perhaps there is no regular discourse delivered to the congregations in this country.

So far as I am able to infer any thing of the spirit manifested in their acts, I should regard the religion of the people in Rio as having very little of the holy unction, and the natural tendency of a State establishment is that of formality.