ICE CREAMS, WATER ICES, FROZEN PUDDINGS

TOGETHER WITH REFRESHMENTS FOR ALL SOCIAL AFFAIRS

By Mrs. S. T. Rorer

CONTENTS

FOREWORD CONTAINING GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR ALL RECIPES

PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAMS

NEAPOLITAN CREAMS

ICE CREAMS FROM CONDENSED MILK

FROZEN PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS

WATER ICES AND SHERBETS OR SORBETS

FROZEN FRUITS

MOUSSE

SAUCES FOR ICE CREAMS

REFRESHMENTS FOR AFFAIRS

SOUPS

SWEETBREADS

SHELL-FISH DISHES

POULTRY AND GAME DISHES

COLD DISHES

SALADS

SANDWICHES

SUGGESTIONS FOR CHURCH SUPPERS

INDEX

FOREWORD CONTAINING GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR ALL RECIPES

In this book, Philadelphia Ice Creams, comprising the first group, are very palatable, but expensive. In many parts of the country it is quite difficult to get good cream. For that reason, I have given a group of creams, using part milk and part cream, but it must be remembered that it takes smart "juggling" to make ice cream from milk. By far better use condensed milk, with enough water or milk to rinse out the cans.

Ordinary fruit creams may be made with condensed milk at a cost of about fifteen cents a quart, which, of course, is cheaper than ordinary milk and cream.

In places where neither cream nor condensed milk can be purchased, a fair ice cream is made by adding two tablespoonfuls of olive oil to each quart of milk. The cream for Philadelphia Ice Cream should be rather rich, but not double cream.

If pure raw cream is stirred rapidly, it swells and becomes frothy, like the beaten whites of eggs, and is "whipped cream." To prevent this in making Philadelphia Ice Cream, one-half the cream is scalded, and when it is very cold, the remaining half of raw cream is added. This gives the smooth, light and rich consistency which makes these creams so different from others.

USE OF FRUITS

Use fresh fruits in the summer and the best canned unsweetened fruits in the winter. If sweetened fruits must be used, cut down the given quantity of sugar. Where acid fruits are used, they should be added to the cream after it is partly frozen.

TIME FOR FREEZING

The time for freezing varies according to the quality of cream or milk or water; water ices require a longer time than ice creams. It is not well to freeze the mixtures too rapidly; they are apt to be coarse, not smooth, and if they are churned before the mixture is icy cold they will be greasy or "buttery."

The average time for freezing two quarts of cream should be ten minutes; it takes but a minute or two longer for larger quantities.

DIRECTIONS FOR FREEZING

Pound the ice in a large bag with a mallet, or use an ordinary ice shaver. The finer the ice, the less time it takes to freeze the cream. A four quart freezer will require ten pounds of ice, and a quart and a pint of coarse rock salt. You may pack the freezer with a layer of ice three inches thick, then a layer of salt one inch thick, or mix the ice and salt in the tub and shovel it around the freezer. Before beginning to pack the freezer, turn the crank to see that all the machinery is in working order. Then open the can and turn in the mixture that is to be frozen. Turn the crank slowly and steadily until the mixture begins to freeze, then more rapidly until it is completely frozen. If the freezer is properly packed, it will take fifteen minutes to freeze the mixture. Philadelphia Ice Creams are not good if frozen too quickly.

TO REPACK

After the cream is frozen, wipe off the lid of the can and remove the crank; take off the lid, being very careful not to allow any salt to fall into the can. Remove the dasher and scrape it off. Take a large knife or steel spatula, scrape the cream from the sides of the can, work and pack it down until it is perfectly smooth. Put the lid back on the can, and put a cork in the hole from which the dasher was taken. Draw off the water, repack, and cover the whole with a piece of brown paper; throw over a heavy bag or a bit of burlap, and stand aside for one or two hours to ripen.

TO MOLD ICE CREAMS, ICES OR PUDDINGS

If you wish to pack ice cream and serve it in forms or shapes, it must be molded after the freezing. The handiest of all of these molds is either the brick or the melon mold.

After the cream is frozen rather stiff, prepare a tub or bucket of coarsely chopped ice, with one-half less salt than you use for freezing. To each ten pounds of ice allow one quart of rock salt. Sprinkle a little rock salt in the bottom of your bucket or tub, then put over a layer of cracked ice, another layer of salt and cracked ice, and on this stand your mold, which is not filled, but is covered with a lid, and pack it all around, leaving the top, of course, to pack later on. Take your freezer near this tub. Remove the lid from the mold, and pack in the cream, smoothing it down until you have filled it to overflowing. Smooth the top with a spatula or limber knife, put over a sheet of waxed paper and adjust the lid. Have a strip of muslin or cheese cloth dipped in hot paraffin or suet and quickly bind the seam of the lid. This will remove all danger of salt water entering the pudding. Now cover the mold thoroughly with ice and salt.

Make sure that your packing tub or bucket has a hole below the top of the mold, so that the salt water will be drained off.

If you are packing in small molds, each mold, as fast as it is closed, should be wrapped in wax paper and put down into the salt and ice. These must be filled quickly and packed.

Molds should stand two hours, and may stand longer.

TO REMOVE ICE CREAMS, ICES AND PUDDINGS FROM MOLDS

Ice cream may be molded in the freezer; you will then have a perfectly round smooth mold, which serves very well for puddings that are to be garnished, and saves a great deal of trouble and extra expense for salt and ice.

As cold water is warmer than the ordinary freezing mixture, after you lift the can or mold, wipe off the salt, hold it for a minute under the cold water spigot, then quickly wipe the top and bottom and remove the lid. Loosen the pudding with a limber knife, hold the mold a little slanting, give it a shake, and nine times out of ten it will come out quickly, having the perfect shape of the can or mold. If the cream still sticks and refuses to come out, wipe the mold with a towel wrung from warm water. Hot water spoils the gloss of puddings, and unless you know exactly how to use it, the cream is too much melted to garnish.

All frozen puddings, water ices, sherbets and sorbets are frozen and molded according to these directions.

The quantities given in these recipes are arranged in equal amounts, so that for a smaller number of persons they can be easily divided.

QUANTITIES FOR SERVING

Each quart of ice cream will serve, in dessert plates, four persons. In stem ice cream dishes, silver or glass, it will serve six persons. A quart of ice or sherbet will fill ten small sherbet stem glasses, to serve with the meat course at dinner. This quantity will serve in lemonade glasses eight persons.

PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAMS

BURNT ALMOND ICE CREAM

Shell, blanch and roast the almonds until they are a golden brown, then grate them. Put half the cream and all the sugar over the fire in a double boiler. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, take it from the fire, add the caramel and the almonds, and, when cold, add the remaining pint of cream, the vanilla and the sherry. Freeze as directed on page 7.

This quantity will serve eight persons.

APRICOT ICE CREAM

If fresh apricots are used, take an extra quarter of a pound of sugar. Put half the cream and all the sugar over the fire in a double boiler and stir until the sugar is dissolved; take from the fire and, when cold, add the remaining cream. Turn the mixture into the freezer, and, when frozen fairly stiff, add the apricots after having been pressed through a colander. Return the lid, adjust the crank, and turn it slowly for five minutes, then remove the dasher and repack.

This quantity should serve ten persons.

BANANA ICE CREAM

Put half the cream and all the sugar over the fire and stir until the sugar is dissolved; take from the fire, and, when perfectly cold, add the remaining half of the cream. Freeze the mixture, and add the bananas mashed or pressed through a colander. Put on the lid, adjust the crank, and turn until the mixture is frozen rather hard.

This quantity will serve ten persons.

BISCUIT ICE CREAM

Grate and sift the biscuits. Scald half the cream and the sugar; when cold, add the remaining cream and the vanilla, and freeze. When frozen, remove the dasher, stir in the powdered biscuits, and repack to ripen.

This quantity will serve six persons.

APPLE ICE CREAM

Put half the cream and all the sugar over the fire and stir until the sugar is dissolved. When the mixture is perfectly cold, freeze it and add the lemon juice and the apples, pared and grated. Finish the freezing, and repack to ripen.

The apples must be pared at the last minute and grated into the cream. If they are grated on a dish and allowed to remain in the air they will turn very dark and spoil the color of the cream.

BROWN BREAD ICE CREAM

Dry and toast the bread in the oven, grate or pound it, and put it through an ordinary sieve. Heat half the cream and all the sugar; take from the fire, add vanilla, and, when cold, add the remaining cream, and freeze. When frozen, remove the dasher, stir in the brown bread, repack and stand aside to ripen.

This quantity will serve six persons.

CARAMEL ICE CREAM, No. 1

Put four tablespoonfuls of the sugar in an iron frying pan over a strong fire, shake until the sugar melts, turns brown, smokes and burns; add quickly a half cupful of water; let it boil a minute, take from the fire, and put it, with all the sugar and half the cream, in a double boiler over the fire. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, take from the fire, and, when cold, add the remaining cream and vanilla, and freeze.

This quantity will serve six persons.

CARAMEL ICE CREAM, No. 2

Put the brown sugar in a frying pan over the fire, shake it until it melts, burns and smokes. Take it from the fire and add two tablespoonfuls of water; heat until the sugar is again melted, put it in a double boiler with the milk and all the sugar, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and stand aside to cool. When cold, add half the cream and the vanilla, and freeze. When frozen sufficiently stiff to remove the dasher, stir in the remaining pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth, repack and stand aside for three hours.

This quantity will serve ten persons.

BISQUE ICE CREAM

Pound the macaroons, kisses, lady fingers or sponge cake, and put them through a colander. Put half the cream and all the sugar over the fire in a double boiler; when the sugar is dissolved, stand the mixture aside to cool; when cold, add the remaining cream, the caramel, sherry and vanilla. Turn the mixture into the freezer, and, when frozen, add the pounded cakes; stir the mixture until it is perfectly smooth and well mixed, and repack. Bisque ice cream is better for a three hour stand.

This quantity will serve six persons.

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM

Grate the chocolate, put it in a double boiler with the milk; stir until hot, and add the sugar, vanilla, cinnamon and one pint of the cream. When cold, freeze; when frozen, remove the dasher and stir in the remaining pint of the cream whipped to a stiff froth.

This will serve ten persons.

COFFEE ICE CREAM

Grind the Mocha rather coarse, put it in the double boiler with one half the cream, and steep over the fire for at least ten minutes. Strain through a fine muslin or flannel bag, pressing it hard to get out all the strength of the coffee. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved; when cold, add the remaining pint of cream and freeze.

This will serve six persons.

CURAÇAO ICE CREAM

Put the sugar and half the cream over the fire in a double boiler. When the sugar is dissolved, take it from the fire, and, when cold, add the curaçao, orange juice and orange blossoms water; add the remaining cream, and freeze.

This will serve six persons.

GINGER ICE CREAM

Put the ginger through an ordinary meat chopper. Heat the sugar, ginger and half the cream in a double boiler; when the sugar is dissolved, take it from the fire, and, when cold, add the lemon juice and remaining cream, and freeze.

MARASCHINO ICE CREAM

Put the sugar and half the cream in a double boiler, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. When cold, add the remaining cream, the juice of the orange, the bitters or wild cherry, and the maraschino, and freeze.

Serve in parfait glasses to six persons.

LEMON ICE CREAM

Mix the sugar, the grated rind and juice of the lemons, and the orange juice together. Put half the cream in a double boiler over the fire; when scalding hot, stand it aside until perfectly cold; add the remaining half of the cream and freeze it rather hard. Remove the crank and the lid, add the sugar mixture, replace the lid and crank, and turn rapidly for five minutes; repack to ripen.

This will serve six people.

ORANGE ICE CREAM

Put the sugar, grated yellow rind of the orange and half the cream in a double boiler over the fire; when the sugar is dissolved, take from the fire, and, when very cold, add the remaining cream, and freeze. When frozen rather hard, add the orange juice, refreeze, and pack to ripen.

PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM

Put half the cream and half the sugar in a double boiler over the fire; when the sugar is dissolved, stand it aside until cold. Pare and grate the pineapple, add the remaining half of the sugar and stand it aside. When the cream is cold, add the remaining cream, and partly freeze. Then add the lemon juice to the pineapple and add it to the frozen cream; turn the freezer five minutes longer, and repack.

This will serve eight or ten persons.

GREEN GAGE ICE CREAM

Press the green gages through a sieve. Add the sugar to half the cream, stir it in a double boiler until the sugar is dissolved; when cold, add the remaining cream. When this is partly frozen, stir in the green gage pulp, and finish the freezing as directed on page 7.

If the green gages are colorless, add three or four drops of apple green coloring to the cream before freezing.

RASPBERRY ICE CREAM

Mash the raspberries; add half the sugar and the lemon juice. Put the remaining sugar and half the cream in a double boiler; stir until the sugar is dissolved, and stand aside to cool; when cold, add the remaining cream, turn the mixture into the freezer, and stir until partly frozen. Remove the lid and add the mashed raspberries, and stir again for five or ten minutes until the mixture is sufficiently hard to repack.

This will serve eight or ten persons.

STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM

Make precisely the same as raspberry ice cream, substituting one quart of strawberries for the raspberries.

PISTACHIO ICE CREAM

Blanch and pound or grate the nuts. Put half the cream and all the sugar in a double boiler; stir until the sugar is dissolved and stand aside to cool; when cold, add the nuts, the flavoring and the remaining cream, mix, add the coloring, and turn into the freezer to freeze.

If green coloring matter is not at hand, a little spinach or parsley may be chopped and rubbed with a small quantity of alcohol.

This quantity will serve six persons,

VANILLA ICE CREAM

Put the sugar and half the cream in a double boiler over the fire. Split the vanilla bean, scrape out the seeds and add them to the hot cream, and add the bean broken into pieces. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and strain through a colander. When this is cold, add the remaining cream and freeze. This should be repacked and given two hours to ripen. Four would be better.

This will serve six persons.

WALNUT ICE CREAM

Put the sugar and half the cream over the fire in a double boiler; when the sugar is dissolved, stand it aside to cool. When cold, add the remaining cream, the walnuts, chopped, and the flavoring, and freeze.

This will serve six persons.

NEAPOLITAN CREAMS

In this group we have a set of frozen desserts called by many "ice creams," but which are really frozen custards, flavored. In localities where cream is not accessible, the Neapolitan Creams are far better than milk thickened with cornstarch or gelatin.

CHOCOLATE

Put the milk and cinnamon over the fire in a double boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar until very light, add the well-beaten whites, and stir this into the hot milk. As soon as the mixture begins to thicken, take it from the fire, add the grated chocolate, and, when cold, add the cream and the vanilla. Freeze and pack as directed on page 7.

This is sufficient to serve ten persons.

CARAMEL

Beat the yolks of the eggs until creamy and add the sugar; beat until light, and then add the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Put the milk over the fire in a double boiler; when hot, add the eggs, and stir and cook until the mixture begins to thicken. Take from the fire, strain through a fine sieve, add the vanilla and caramel, and, when cold, add the cream, and freeze.

This will serve ten persons.

COFFEE

Beat the sugar and the yolks of the eggs until light, add the well-beaten whites, and pour into them the coffee, boiling hot. Stir over the fire for a minute, take from the fire, add the vanilla, and, when cold, add the cream, and freeze.

This will serve eight persons.

VANILLA

Put the milk over the fire in a double boiler, and add the vanilla bean, split. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar until light, add the whites beaten to a stiff froth, and stir into them the hot milk. Return the mixture to the double boiler and cook until it begins to thicken, or will coat a knife blade dipped into it. Take from the fire, strain through a colander, and, when cold, add the cream, and freeze. Repack and stand to ripen for three hours or longer.

This will serve eight persons.

WALNUT

Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar until light; add the well-beaten whites, and then the milk, scalding hot. Stir over the fire in a double boiler until the mixture begins to thicken; take from the fire and add the vanilla and caramel. When cold, add the walnuts and cream, and freeze.

This will serve eight persons.

NEAPOLITAN BLOCKS

These are made by putting layers of various kinds and colors of ice creams into a brick mold. Pack and freeze. At serving time, cut into slices crosswise of the brick, and serve each slice on a paper mat.

ICE CREAMS FROM CONDENSED MILK

These creams are not so good as those made from raw cream, but with care and good flavoring are quite as good as the ordinary Neapolitan Creams.

There is one advantage—condensed milk is not so liable to curdle when mixed with fresh fruits. These recipes will answer also for what is sold under the name of "Evaporated Cream." Use unsweetened milk, or allow for the sugar in the sweetened varieties.

BANANA

Press the bananas through a sieve, and add the lemon juice and sugar. Stand aside a half hour, add milk and water, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and freeze as directed on page 7.

This will serve six persons.

CARAMEL

Put the brown sugar in an iron pan, melt and brown it. When it begins to smoke, add two tablespoonfuls of hot water. Stir until liquid. Pour out the milk, rinse the cans with the water, add the caramel, vanilla and granulated sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, freeze as directed on page 7.

This will serve six persons.

COCOANUT

Grate the cocoanuts and pour over them the boiling water. Stir until it is cool, and press in a sieve. Put the fibre in a cheese cloth and wring it dry; add this to the water that was strained through the sieve. When cold, add condensed milk, and freeze as directed on page 7.

This will serve eight persons.

CHOCOLATE, No. 1

Put the water, chocolate, sugar and cinnamon in a saucepan; stir until boiling. Take from the fire, add the vanilla and the condensed milk. When cold, freeze as directed on page 7.

This will serve six persons.

CHOCOLATE, No. 2

Put the chocolate, sugar, water and cinnamon in a saucepan over the fire. Stir until the mixture boils. Take from the fire, and add all the remaining ingredients. When cold, freeze as directed on page 7.

This will serve eight persons.

COFFEE

Add the sugar to the hot coffee, and stir until it is dissolved; add the milk, using water enough to rinse out the cans; add the vanilla. When the mixture is cold, freeze, turning it rapidly toward the end of the freezing.

This will serve four persons.

PEACH

Put the sugar, water and peach kernels over the fire; stir until the sugar is dissolved, and boil three minutes. Pare the peaches and press them through a colander, add to them the strained syrup. When cold, turn the mixture into the freezer and turn the crank slowly until partly frozen; add the milk, and continue the freezing.

Omit the water and use less sugar with canned peaches.

This will serve ten persons.

ORANGE, No. 1

Grate the rinds into the sugar, add milk and enough water to rinse cans. When sugar is dissolved, stand it in a cold place. Put orange juice in the freezer and freeze it quite hard; add sweetened milk, and freeze again quickly.

This will serve four persons.

ORANGE, No. 2

Freeze a full quart of orange juice. When quite hard, add a can of sweetened condensed milk, freeze it again, and serve at once.

This is very nice and will serve eight persons.

ORANGE GELATIN CREAM

Add the grated yellow rind of two oranges to the Jello; add the sugar and the water, boiling. Stir until the sugar and Jello are dissolved, add the orange juice, and when the mixture is cold, put it in the freezer and stir slowly until it begins to freeze. Add the condensed milk, and continue the freezing.

This is nice served in tall glasses, with the beaten whites of the eggs made into a meringue and heaped on top.

In this way it will serve eight persons.

SOUR SOP

Squeeze the sour sop, which should measure nearly one quart; add the sugar melted in the water with the lime juice and milk, and freeze slowly.

This will serve ten persons.

FROZEN PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS

ALASKA BAKE

Make a vanilla ice cream, one or two quarts, as the occasion demands. When the ice cream is frozen, pack it in a brick mold, cover each side of the mold with letter paper and fasten the bottom and lid. Wrap the whole in wax paper and pack it in salt and ice; freeze for at least two hours before serving time. At serving time, make a meringue from the whites of six eggs beaten to a froth; add six tablespoonfuls of sifted powdered sugar and beat until fine and dry. Turn the ice cream from the mold, place it on a serving platter, and stand the platter on a steak board or an ordinary thick plank. Cover the mold with the meringue pressed through a star tube in a pastry bag, or spread it all over the ice cream as you would ice a cake. Decorate the top quickly, and dust it thickly with powdered sugar; stand it under the gas burners in a gas broiler or on the grate in a hot coal or wood oven until it is lightly browned, and send it quickly to the table. There is no danger of the ice cream melting if you will protect the under side of the plate. The meringue acts as a nonconductor for the upper part.

A two quart mold with meringue will serve ten persons.

ALEXANDER BOMB

Peel, core and quarter the apples; put them in a saucepan with the grated yellow rind of the lemon, half the sugar and all the water; boil until tender, and add the juice of the lemon; rub the apples through a sieve. When cold, freeze. Whip the cream. Beat the eggs and the remaining sugar and add them to the milk, hot; stir until the mixture thickens, take from the fire, and, when cold, add the orange blossoms water and the Curaçao; freeze in another freezer. Divide the whipped cream, and stir one-half into the first and one-half into the other mixture. Line a melon mold with the custard mixture, fill the centre space with the frozen apples, and cover over another layer of the custard; put over a sheet of letter paper and put on the lid. Bind the seam with a strip of muslin dipped in paraffin or suet, and pack the mold in salt and ice; freeze for at least two hours. Serve plain, or it may be garnished with whipped cream.

This will serve twelve persons.

BISCUITS AMERICANA