through the stirrup-irons and rings of the snaffle, and are fixed on tightly to the girths and stirrup-irons, on their respective sides (see Fig. 45). This excellent authority on the art of training horses to safely negotiate the difficult lines of country met with in Ireland, tells me that he has found this method of great use for teaching horses to “gather themselves together” in proper style, when coming up to the big banks and ditches that may be seen to perfection in the counties of Kildare and Tipperary. For reasons which I have fully explained in this book, I would advise that the horse should, at first, be thoroughly taught to obey the indications of the rein in the manner I have described. After that, Colonel Wardrop’s plan might be useful for giving the horse a few practical lessons over the obstacles in question.
CHAPTER VI.
TEACHING HORSES TO JUMP.
Before this instruction is commenced, the horse ought to be got under control, and thoroughly well mouthed. We may begin to teach him to jump in an enclosure, similar to that described on page 77: first of all, making him circle and turn with the long reins on foot, at a smart trot. A rounded log of wood, not less than 15 feet in length, and 10 inches or more in diameter, may then be placed across the horse’s track, which should have been made soft. If the animal shews a little reluctance to face the obstacle, we may “work” him up to it with the reins, keeping him straight by the pressure of the outward rein against his quarter, as he turns from one side to the other, and stimulating him with the voice and sound of the whip. If he persists in refusing, we should put on the crupper leading-rein (see page 148), and after running him about, and pulling him from side to side by it, a few times, in order to make him understand its use, we should try to lead him over in this manner. Or, having given it to an assistant to go on in front, we may give him another trial with the long reins. In this, as in all other breaking operations with the horse, we should exercise great patience, and should renew our efforts again and again if we do not at first succeed. If the animal “shews fight,” I would advise that the whip should be put aside altogether; for the moment, according to my experience, its cut, or even crack, fails to prompt him to go on, it will incite him to offer increased resistance. Instead of its effect, we should employ that of the long reins, in circling him, turning him sharply and backing him, until he gives in, or until we are forced to employ stronger means. Mr. John Hubert Moore, who taught me this admirable method for curing this and other forms of jibbing, considers that its great efficacy is due to the punishment inflicted on the animal’s mouth and hocks. Professor Sample, however, holds that it is owing to the fact of the animal imagining that he has no power to resist the command to go forward, after having been forced to turn as the breaker wished. I may observe that it is not the act of turning a jibber to the right and to the left which will overcome his sulkiness, but its continued repetition; and that the sharper this is done the better will be the effect. Hence, I am inclined to think that the punishment theory is the right one. The horse seems, as with the rope-twitch (see page 111), to fail to connect the idea of pain, in this case, with the man who inflicts it, as he undoubtedly does, when whipped, or spurred; and, probably, on that account, yields the more readily to its influence.
If the animal prove thoroughly stubborn, and time be of consequence, he should be made to lie down, and held with his head turned round (see page 158), until he appears to “give in.” The driving gear should be again put on, and another trial given. This process may have to be repeated. Such strong measures will hardly ever be necessary, if we commence with the fence low enough.
When putting the animal through the course of the discipline which I have described, for overcoming stubbornness by the use of the long reins, I have found that the good effect has been greatly increased, by utilising the action of the outward rein on the pad.
The log may be gradually raised to a height of three feet, which will be sufficient for the first lesson, and the horse made to jump freely, when circling to the right, as well as to the left. A second fence may be made on the other side of the enclosure, opposite to the first one. When the horse has learned to jump with the outward rein low down, he should be taught to do so with it resting on the pad; as it will then be, more or less, in the position it will occupy, when held by the rider.
By teaching a horse in an enclosure, he will be free from outside disturbing influences, and, having become accustomed to go round the track, will the more readily jump any obstacle placed across it.
By this method, horses may quickly learn to jump, and not alone to clear the obstacle, but also to negotiate it in the exact style they are required to do, when a man is on their back. The more horses are practised in this manner, the more they appear to like jumping, and very rarely exhibit, as they will do with a rider, any dislike to the work, from numerous repetitions, backwards and forwards, over the same fence.
The old plan of teaching a horse to jump by leading him over fences with a cavesson and one or two leading-reins, is an abomination that no horseman should perpetrate; for its tendency is to make the animal jump in the very way he ought not to do, namely, with the weight on the fore-hand, and not on the hind-quarters. Besides this, horses are very apt to resist any forward pull on either cavesson or head-stall. The action of the crupper leading-rein, on the contrary, while leaving the head entirely free, is to make the horse get his hind-legs well under him, as we may see by the way he throws up his hind-quarters, when being led by it over a fence. We all have, of course, heard the well-founded objection to the use of the cavesson and leading-rein for teaching horses to jump, that it makes them slow to “get away” on landing over a fence; a fault, no doubt, caused by the habit of having the weight on the fore-hand. If we want a horse to jump “big” and “get away” quick, we must “catch a good hold of his head;” the very opposite of which is done by the cavesson method.
The system of turning horses loose into a small circular course, fenced in and provided with obstacles, and then making them jump with a long whip, is good as far as it goes; but neither it, nor the lunging plan, has any pretensions to teaching obedience to the rein when jumping, without which a safe and clever style is unattainable.
By using a circular track, the horse can be taught to jump at any pace, and the nature of the fences, which should never be made weak enough to “chance,” varied as may be desired. The breaker might have three circles, each containing three jumps of different kinds; for instance, a post and rails, water jump, hurdle, double bank, stone wall, hedge, open ditch, ditch and bank, and bank and ditch.
Two or three lessons of this sort will be sufficient to make the generality of horses clever enough to carry a rider in good style. The horse should then be saddled; a man or boy put up, without giving him, at first, any reins to hold; and the horse driven over the fences, as before. When the breaker finds that the animal jumps as well with the man up as he did without him, he may take off the long reins, put on the ordinary ones, and hand them to the rider, who should then take the horse over the fences as before; the breaker using the crack of the whip, as a stimulus, if required. The rider should not be given spurs, unless he is a fine horseman, and unless the horse requires them to make him more lively; but not as a means for overcoming any reluctance he may have to jumping, which should be accomplished in the manner I have laid down.
After the animal has learned all we can teach him in our enclosures, he should be made over to a good rider, to school him in the country, and, if possible, with hounds.
I need hardly say, that a horse should not be jumped, if he is at all sore on his legs or feet.
This plan of schooling horses over a circular line of fences, was, in my case, the natural outcome of the practice I adopted during my various tours, of breaking horses in a square enclosure of about 20 yards side. I have never seen or heard of it done by any one else, except those I have taught; although it could hardly fail to suggest itself to a person accustomed to drive horses on foot, in a confined space, with the object of teaching them to jump.
One great advantage, among many others, of teaching a horse to jump in the way I have detailed, is, that, by circling and turning the animal in front of the fences, we can cure him of all impetuosity caused by their proximity, and, at the same time, make him willing to jump, with thorough light-heartedness, the moment he receives the indication from the rein to go straight, and clear the obstacle. We can all understand, how valuable such training is, for the hunter and trooper.
CHAPTER VII.
MOUNTING HORSES FOR THE FIRST TIME.
Having rendered the horse quiet, given him a good mouth, and taught him to jump, we may next proceed to mount him in the following safe and easy manner, which, I believe, I have been the first to adopt. Put on a snaffle bridle, and knot the reins on the animal’s neck, so that they will not hang down. Place over the bridle a head-stall, to the off-side D of which, attach a short leading-rein, and saddle the horse. Take a strong cord; tie a double sheet bend in the hair of the tail with one end of it (see Fig. 30); pass the other end through the D of the halter on the near side; pull the horse’s head well round, and secure the cord by a slip knot. If the animal resents his head being brought round, tie him loosely at first, and let him go round and round, stopping him, if necessary, by catching hold of the leading-rein until he stands still. When he does this, he may be tied a little tighter, and so on. The requisite extent to which the head should be turned round, will be attained when he is tied up just short of what would cause him to fall down, if he were allowed to go round on his own account. The outer girth should be unloosed, passed over the cord, and buckled again, so as to bring the cord close to the animal’s near side (see Fig. 46); or the surcingle may be placed over it. Having taken the leading-rein in the left hand, we should walk the horse round and round several times, testing him as to his amenability to discipline by stopping him by means of the leading-rein, and then pulling him round again. If he resists these actions on our part, we may feel convinced that he is not under proper control. In which case, we may continue
to make him revolve, or may force him to lie down, and hold him with his head turned round, as described on page 158, until he gives in.
As many horses, especially Australian buck-jumpers, are very shy of being touched with the heels, or even gripped closely with the knees, it is well to try if the animal we have in hand is affected with this form of timidity. For this object, we may gently prod the horse with the rounded end of a pole, in the ribs, while an assistant takes him round with the leading-rein, until he ceases to mind the touch of the pole. A few applications of the rope-twitch (see page 113), will also have a good effect in rendering him quiet in this respect. We may now get an assistant to catch hold of the mane, on the near side, with his left hand, the stirrup-iron with his right hand, and go through the various stages of mounting, beginning with putting his left foot in the stirrup (see Fig. 47), catching the pommel or cantle of the saddle, as he sees fit, with the right hand, and hopping round on the right foot, while we keep the horse revolving by means of the leading-rein. I may add that the Australian rough-riders, who are marvellously expert at getting on to a difficult horse, place the right hand on the pommel of the saddle, and not on the cantle, as is the practice in other places, and consequently place the left hand high up on the mane. As a matter of course, the assistant should not finally throw his leg over, until the animal ceases to resist. When the horse has got accustomed to the presence of the man in the saddle, the rider may touch him with his heels, lightly at first, and gradually stronger, without hurting him, until he stands the contact unmoved. When the horse has stopped trying to get free, we may slacken off the cord a little, take him round and round again, and so on, until it is safe to let him loose altogether. Before doing this, we should, as before, test his quietness, by stopping him with the leading-rein, and then pulling him round again. When most of the tension has been taken off the cord, we may give the leading-rein to the rider, to hold in his right hand, so that he can stop the horse if necessary; while we make the animal go round by touching him lightly with the whip. After the cord has been removed, the rider may take the reins, and keep the animal, at first, going round in small circles, and, then, gradually enlarging them, until he can take the horse in any direction he likes.
In all my experience with numbers of horses that had, for years, successfully resisted the most determined efforts to mount them, I have never failed to accomplish this object in one lesson, by means of the method just described; nor has any horse, after I have removed the cord, shewed the slightest return to unruliness. The method of making the horse, by the use of the rope-twitch (see page 113), steady to mount, which I shall describe in Chapter IX., is specially valuable for this particular purpose; while the head and tail plan, by producing a powerful moral effect, renders the animal not alone easy to mount, but also quiet to ride. As I have pointed out on page 31, we should, in all cases, confirm the habit of obedience by repetition. I may mention that the method of tying a horse “head and tail,” with the object of making him quiet, has been in use for many years; though I am unable to say who was its inventor. If practised without my improvements of leading-rein and surcingle, or girth, over the cord, it has the serious faults, that as soon as the horse begins to revolve quickly, the operator has, practically, no further control over him until he stops of his own accord, or tumbles down “all of a heap,” and that it is impossible to mount him safely. The man, if expert, and if the horse has no tendency to hit out with his off-fore, might run in and catch him by the head-stall, if he thought that the animal was in danger of falling, on account of going round too fast. The conduct of such confidential horses, I need hardly say, is not the standard by which we should gauge the safety of any method of breaking, which, in order to be generally useful, should not demand from the person who practises it, the possession of exceptional activity, or foolhardiness. When the off-side leading-rein is on, the breaker can, with perfect safety, catch it while the horse is turning round; for, at that time, it swings entirely clear of the fore-limb, and in a convenient position for the breaker to lay hold of it. If a man mounts a horse tied head and tail, with the cord unconfined by girth or surcingle, he is placed in the uncomfortable dilemma of riding without any “grip” on the saddle, by having his left leg pulled upwards and outwards by the cord, or of having this limb imprisoned between the cord and the animal’s side; while, in either case, the man is in a most dangerous position, on an animal that is revolving round and round, with little or no control over its own movements. We may see, therefore, that the simple head and tail method, without the improvements I have described, is not applicable for mounting purposes.
The plan of gaining command over a horse by tying him head and tail, and allowing or forcing him to revolve round until he falls down, is unworthy the consideration of educated men. It is based on the wrong assumption that all ailments of temper spring from the same cause; the supposed remedy is not under the control of the operator; the effect is physical, rather than moral, and consequently is not lasting; and the results of the violent twisting of the hocks, and of the fall, if the animal comes down on the side to which his head is turned, as he often does, are apt to injure him.
Professor Sample gives a thoroughly sound and rational exposition of the head and tail method, which would well repay the attention of all horsemen who have not already seen it. This American gentleman is unrivalled in the marvellous power he possesses of teaching, in a wonderfully short time, horses to perform difficult feats of obedience.
CHAPTER VIII.
BREAKING HORSES FOR LADIES’ RIDING.
Almost any horse that is quiet for a man to ride, will carry a lady steadily the first time the attempt is made. The few special requirements to make a well-broken-in saddle horse perfect as a lady’s hack, are: (1) That he must stand without moving when she is being put on, or when she mounts from a chair or block. (2) That he must not shy at the habit, or sidle away from it. (3) That he must “bend” himself more readily, and go more “collectedly,” than if he had to carry a man. (4) That he must understand the touch of the whip on his off side, as equivalent to the pressure of the right leg. (5) And that he must learn, always, to “strike off,” in the canter, with the off fore leading. On a good mover, a fine horsewoman will neither feel, nor exhibit discomfort when the animal may happen to lead with the near fore; although, at first starting, the lead with the other leg is more agreeable. I may add, that the canter is a pace of three time; the succession of beats being: a. leading fore; b. non-leading fore and its opposite hind-leg; c. hind-leg of side opposite to leading fore. Hence, the more a fore-leg leads in the canter, the more likely is it to suffer from the injurious effects of concussion. It is obvious that if we wish to keep a horse sound, we should not let him canter too much with the same leg leading.
The first three of the conditions, just mentioned, which are indispensable to the lady’s horse, can be quickly fulfilled by instruction on foot; although the remainder of the animal’s education should be completed by a good rider. I may remark, that many ladies ride so well, that any special preparation for their use, is almost needless. Besides this, the short habits of the present day are but little apt to make animals go unsteadily.
The employment of the rope-twitch (see page 113) will speedily correct any unsteadiness at mounting which cannot be remedied, without delay, by ordinary means. The horse may be broken of any tendency to shy at, or sidle away from, the habit, by putting the side-saddle on, fixing a rug to its near side, and giving the animal a few circling lessons on foot with the long reins (see page 172). The same practice, with frequent spells at reining back, will teach him to bend and collect himself to the required extent. Some work with the long reins, while the lady is in the saddle, will do the horse good, if he be at all awkward.
CHAPTER IX.
BREAKING HORSES TO HARNESS.
The place which I prefer to all others, for breaking a horse to harness, is an enclosure about thirty yards square, the ground of which is level, and hard enough to allow the wheels to run smoothly.
Whether intended partially for saddle purposes, or not, I would advise that the horse should be broken in the manner already described, before trying him between the shafts. Before putting him in, we should circle him for half-an-hour or more, with the long reins on foot (see page 172), and get an assistant, while the animal is going round, to gentle him under the belly and about the hind-quarters, as recommended by Pratt and others, with a long pole, without hurting him, so as to accustom him to its touch. The whip should also be cracked about the horse, without hitting him, until he ceases to mind its noise. If the horse resents these operations, which inflict no pain on him, the rope-twitch (see page 113) may be employed to enforce the required obedience; or the animal may be made to lie down (see page 153), and gentled. When the horse has been made quiet, he will readily take to double harness if put alongside a steady break-horse for a few times, and, when accustomed to this work, will, as a rule, go by himself without any trouble; although he may be a little awkward at first. If we want to put the animal into single harness, right off, and if we have got the gear at hand, we may harness the horse, put the strait-jacket over the harness, buckling it up, just tight enough, to prevent him kicking when it is on; and then drive him, on foot, with the long reins passed through the shaft-tugs, for a short time. We may now put him into the shafts of some suitable, light two-wheeled trap, retaining the strait-jacket over the harness. Two assistants, one on each side, may be employed to hold separate reins attached to the snaffle, while the driver stands on the near side, on about a line with the wheels, holding another pair of reins, which pass through the rings of the pad, and are, of course, fixed to the snaffle. If sufficient help be at hand, it is an advantage to have two other assistants to hold the traces of the strait-jacket ready to let out or draw tight, as may be required. After the horse has gone quietly for a bit, the strait-jacket may be removed, a kicking-strap substituted, and, after a little, an assistant may be put on the driving seat, with all proper precaution. When the horse has thoroughly settled down to his work, the breaker may get on to the seat, and dispense with the help of the other men, if he sees fit. With one man to hold the rope-twitch, and with the aid of a kicking-strap, the breaker, if expert, may easily manage to put a horse in single harness for the first time. In an enclosure such as I have described, the breaker may circle the horse in the trap, with the long reins on foot, by himself, and, in a short time, after the animal has settled down, he may get an assistant to sit in the trap. When the horse is found to go quietly inside the enclosure, he may be tried outside. I think it always the best and easiest plan to break a horse to harness, without blinkers.
CHAPTER X.
FAULTS OF MOUTH.
Boring—Chucking up the head—Pulling—Rearing—Shying—Stargazing—Tender-mouthed—Turn, difficult to—Yawing.
The classification of vices and faults adopted in this, and the following chapters, is, necessarily, somewhat arbitrary; as their causes are more often complex, than simple. The fact of many of them not possessing generally accepted names, has obliged me, in some cases, to sacrifice elegance and correctness of expression, for an attempt at conciseness and clearness of meaning.
Boring.—When the horse has got into the habit of carrying his head too low, we should get it into proper position by circling the animal on foot with the long reins (see page 172), and by reining him back. When he bores on one rein more than the other, we should adopt the same procedure; although we should devote our attention, mainly, to getting him to turn readily to the side on which his mouth is “hard,” until he bends to it, as easily as to the other. After half-an-hour’s judicious driving, the horse ought to carry himself, and obey the rein in the desired manner; although he may require half-a-dozen lessons to confirm the habit.
Chucking up the head.—Here we should teach the horse, in the manner just described, to “save” his mouth, by carrying his head in a proper position, and by bending his neck to the pull of the rein (see remarks on the standing martingale, page 70). Mr. Kemp, A.V.D., tells me that the animal may be easily broken of this objectionable habit by using a nose-band, inside the part that goes over the nose, three or four cowrie shells [small marbles would have the same effect] are sewn; the nose-band being kept in position by a standing martingale, which, of course, should be of the proper length (see page 70). This plan is on the same principle, as the method I have described; for, in both, the horse relinquishes the trick, on finding out that its practice inflicts pain, and that he can save himself from punishment, by obeying the rein.
Pulling.—We should give the hard puller, at least, a dozen lessons with the long reins on foot, teaching him, somewhat sharply, that he must obey the rein. It is, also, well to use the word whoa,” or any other suitable one, as recommended by Pratt, Magner, and others, whenever we pull him up; so that he may learn to stop on hearing it. Making him lie down and keeping him on the ground (see page 158) will be of great service in reducing the runaway to obedience. The breaker will naturally have to regulate the severity and frequency of this beneficial discipline, as he may see fit.
Rearing.—The rearer should, in the same manner, be taught to swing his quarters round, on either rein being pulled, with the outward rein kept low down; and, when he is perfect at this, the lesson should be completed, with this rein on the driving pad. If he rears, as a defence against the action of the rein, the breaker should pull all the harder. If this brings the animal “over;” so much stronger will be the effect produced. When jibbing is combined with rearing, if we find that the desired result is not obtained by the process of driving on foot, as speedily as we may wish; we may make the horse lie down, and keep him on the ground, with his head turned round (see page 158), until he gives in. We may also apply the same discipline to those terribly dangerous animals that endeavour to crush their rider, by throwing themselves backward.
Shying.—Leaving out all cases of shying which are due to defective sight, I venture to say that the vast majority of shyers can be made to relinquish this annoying trick, merely by giving them good mouths with the long reins on foot. This mouthing practice, not alone, makes the horse attentive, as well as obedient, to the indications of the rein, but it also teaches discipline, and gives the animal confidence in his director; and, hence, removes the two causes of shying: namely, fear, and wilfulness. If the shyer shows great timidity, which is often combined with impatience of control (see page 4), the animal should be rendered quiet, as described in Chapter III. All these remarks apply equally well to shying off the ball at polo, and off the peg at tent-pegging, and to other forms of yawing about, and not going straight.
Stargazing.—See “Chucking up the head.”
Tender-mouthed.—We may overcome any undue tenderness of the mouth, or unwillingness to “go up to the bridle,” by circling the horse on foot with the long reins, with, and without, a rider on the animal’s back. When the horse finds that he does not get his mouth “pulled about,” he will, in two or three lessons, gain confidence, and will allow a steady pull on the reins.
Turn, difficult to.—The practice with the long reins on foot, advocated for the correction of shying, etc., will be found to be an effective remedy in this case; and is specially applicable for polo ponies that shy off the ball, and are difficult to turn quickly.
“Yawing.”—The animal may be broken of this habit, when ridden, of going from side to side, instead of straight, by the method recommended for shying.
CHAPTER XI.
NERVOUSNESS AND IMPATIENCE OF CONTROL.
Buck-jumping—Difficult to bridle, handle, mount, dismount, ball, or drench—Difficult to put into a railway train, ship’s horse-box, etc.—Difficult to shoe—Nervous of being touched with the heel—Unsteady with the whip; under fire; when drawing swords, etc.
Buck-jumping.—The best procedure I know to overcome this vice, is to circle the horse with the long reins on foot, frequently turning him (see “Shying,” page 220), for about half-an-hour; make him lie down, and keep him on the ground with his head turned round (see page 158), till he, apparently, “gives in”; then let him up; tie him head and tail, and saddle him, with one girth over the cord (see page 197); let him revolve round, and while he does so, gentle him on the ribs with the end of the long pole (see page 203), until he stands its touch. The horse can now be mounted in the manner described on page 197. If we have got a rider that does not mind the chance of a fall, we may omit the head and tail business, and have the horse saddled and mounted with the long reins on him, when he recovers his feet after undergoing his discipline on the ground. The breaker who holds the long reins, should pull the horse round, from side to side, the moment the assistant gets into the saddle; and, having obtained control over him, should circle and turn him several times, until he goes quite freely. The long reins can now be taken off, and the snaffle reins given to the rider, who, previous to this, should not touch the reins; although he may use the breast-plate, or other convenient object, as an aid, in case of accident, for retaining his balance.
Difficult to bridle, handle, mount, dismount, ball, or drench.—Teaching the animal, with the rope-twitch, to pay attention to the word “steady!” (see page 111), will cure all these vices. In Chapter III. I have described at some length various methods to be adopted with horses difficult to handle. The use of the rope-twitch is singularly efficacious for making animals steady to mount and dismount. Mr. D. C. Pallin, A.V.D., informs me that he has invariably succeeded with horses that were deemed impossible to drench, in making them drink, by mounting them; sitting well forward; drawing the head round to the off-side by the head-stall with the left hand; and then giving them the draught out of a bottle with the right hand. This gentleman also advises to have a man on the back of a horse that is difficult to ball, while the operator is giving the bolus. I need hardly say that the aim of these expedients, valuable as they are, is to make the horse take the drench, or ball, at the time, and not to make him permanently quiet, in this respect.
Difficult to put into a railway train, ship’s horse-box, etc.—Use the crupper leading-rein, the rope-twitch, or the Comanche bridle (see page 261), or both. Before making the actual attempt, the appliance, whichever one be used, should be put into requisition a few times, so that the animal may understand what is demanded of him.
Difficult to shoe.—Use the rope-twitch (see page 113); lift the foot, if a fore one, with the rope-noose (see page 88), or suspend it from the surcingle (see page 102); if a hind one, with the hobble, and double cord attached to the tail (see page 135). Gentle the limb, and gradually accustom the hoof to the hammer; correcting the horse with the twitch, if obliged to do so. If the horse be very obstinate, or very violent, it may be well to bring him under control, by making him lie down, and, if necessary, holding him down with his head pulled round (see page 158).
Nervous of being touched with the heel.—Tie the horse head and tail and gentle him with the end of the long pole in the ribs (see page 203); or use the rope-twitch while the rider is in the saddle, and while he touches the animal, so as not to hurt him, with his unarmed heel.
Unsteady with the whip; under fire; when drawing swords, etc.—Teach the horse, while he is under the provocation to which he objects, by the use of the rope-twitch (see page 113), to stand quietly on receiving the command “steady!”; or use the head-and-tail method.
CHAPTER XII.
JIBBING IN SADDLE.
Speaking generally, we may consider jibbing to be the determined manifestation of stubbornness in the horse.
Acting on the sound principle that we should apply no more coercion to the animal than is absolutely necessary, we should at first try the effect of driving the jibber, on foot, with the long reins (see page 172). After it has consented to go quietly without anyone on its back, we may put an assistant in the saddle without giving him the reins, and continue driving the animal until it moves freely in every direction. The rider may then take the reins, and circle and turn the animal several times before taking it for a regular ride. If the horse resolutely sulks, the breaker, to expedite matters, may make it lie down with the proper tackle and hold it down, with its head turned round (see page 158), until it, apparently, gives in; after which it may get another trial at circling. If it still resists, it should be put down again, and, so on, for three, or four times. This change of discipline is most efficacious for the jibber, who quickly seems to recognise the fact, that the irksome constraint on the ground is a punishment for its misbehaviour. Having failed, after putting forth all its powers of opposition, to resist the one form of coercion, it will have but little energy left to stiffen its neck against the other. By adopting this plan with patience, as well as firmness, and without using the whip, except to crack it, the breaker ought to succeed with almost any jibber in one lesson of a couple of hours’ duration. The desired effect can be produced much easier in a secluded enclosure, than in the open. I believe I have been the first to employ this method of making a horse lie down in combination with the driving on foot as a remedy for jibbing.
It is not uncommon to meet with, in the mounted branches of the Army, horses that will go anywhere in company, but will refuse to quit the ranks by themselves, or to act as single riding horses. This peculiarity; the habit of trying to shoulder the rider’s leg up against a wall, tree, or other convenient object; and all other forms of jibbing, should be treated in the manner just described.
For jibbing in harness, see page 236.
CHAPTER XIII.
JUMPING FAULTS.
“Chancing” fences—Jumping too slowly—Refusing—Running out at fences—Rushing at fences.
“Chancing” fences.—This dangerous fault may be corrected by driving the horse with the long reins over fences (see Chapter VI.) which are too stiff to chance, but which are well within the compass of the animal’s powers.
Jumping too slowly.—Many horses commit this fault without attempting, in any way, to refuse. It is often caused by the practice of teaching animals to jump by means of the cavesson and leading-rein; for, by employing this method, the weight is unduly thrown on the fore-hand, and consequently the horse, not having his hind-legs well under him when he “lands” over the fence, is unable to get quickly away from it. Besides this, the horse has to moderate his speed in accordance with that of the man in front of him. By driving horses with the long reins on foot, in the manner described in Chapter VI., we teach them to go with their hind-legs well under them and at any pace we like; and, by so doing, we can quickly get them out of the habit of “dwelling” at their fences.
“Refusing.”—See Chapters VI. and XII. Before taking in hand a horse that jumps “unkindly,” we should carefully examine him in order to see if his fault arises from disease, or infirmity. If such be the case, the animal should not be tried at jumping, until he is sound.
Running out at fences.—For this, we should use the long reins on foot. By their proper employment, we can make a horse go so straight that he will turn neither to one side, nor to the other, when jumping a 3 ft. 6 in. post and rails, for instance, which is only 3 ft. long, and is unprovided with wings of any sort.
Rushing at fences.—This fault can also be easily overcome by the employment of the long reins on foot, and the horse made to regulate his pace, according to the wish of his rider, without shewing any impatience.