Illustrated Horse Breaking

Difficult to harness.—Place the trap in the centre of the enclosure, and drive the horse, on foot, with the long reins, all about it, and back him between the shafts, so that he may get accustomed to it. We may then tie up one fore-leg, apply the rope-twitch, and have the horse harnessed by drawing up the cart, while he is kept standing still. After repeating this, once or twice, the leg may be let down, and the harnessing performed as before. After the horse has become quite steady, he may be backed into the shafts. Or, we may put the strait-jacket on over the harness, make the horse lie down two or three times with it, and having got him on to his feet again, draw the traces of the strait-jacket so tight, that, if he attempt to move, he will fall down. While keeping him in this position, we may try to bring the shafts over his back, letting him fall if he begins to struggle. In the great majority of cases, the horse will quickly learn to regard the falling down as a punishment for his unsteadiness, which he cannot resist; and will accordingly give in, and stand quietly. After he does so, we may gradually slacken out the traces of the strait-jacket, until we can remove this apparatus altogether. We may tie up the leg, or employ the rope-twitch, as may be advisable. For safety sake, in single harness, we should use a kicking-strap. If the animal is very determined in his resistance, we may take the obstinacy out of him, by making him lie down, and keeping his head turned round (see page 158).

Difficult to unharness.—Use the rope-twitch, which will be sufficient in almost all cases. To prevent the animal springing forward, we may employ the strait-jacket, or make him lie down.

Getting the tail over the rein and kicking.—I regret to say that I know no means of permanently breaking a horse of the habit of whisking his tail over the rein, at times, when it is within reach. We may, however, by driving the animal on foot, and accustoming him to bear the rein under the tail, or by using the rope-twitch (see page 113), teach the horse not to kick, when he finds the rein in that position. I presume that the horse might be taught, by the rope-twitch, not to whisk his tail over the rein, on feeling it touch his hind-quarters; although, not having practically tested this expedient, I cannot speak positively as to its merits. I have rendered several animals that were previously addicted to the habit in question, quiet when the rein got under their tails, or touched their quarters, by the means described; and by gentling those parts when the animal was tied head and tail (see page 203). I have met some cases, in which the kicking was caused by pain due to pressure on melanotic tumours that were on the under surface of the dock.

Hanging against the pole.—The remedy, here, would be driving with the long reins. For the first few times that the animal was driven with another horse, he might have a pair of reins to himself, as well as the pair which connects him to his fellow.

Jibbing.—We should break the unharnessed horse of jibbing in the manner described in Chapter XII., and may then put him in a light trap, inside the enclosure, and try to circle him, with the long reins, on the side to which he more readily bends. Having accomplished this, we should endeavour to get him, by a wide sweep, to turn to the other rein, and, if we are successful, should circle him freely in it; turning and changing him, as we may deem advisable. If the animal remain obstinate, we should take him out, and put him again through the necessary discipline of the long reins; or we may keep him on the ground with his head turned round (see Chapter XII.). As soon as we think he has given in, we may put him into the shafts, and give him another trial. In attempting to start, or turn the animal, we should, on no account, use the whip, except, perhaps, to crack it; but should continue to pull the horse’s head from side to side with the reins, so as to make him strike off in the desired direction. I think it best to refrain from speaking to the horse, while all this is being done. When the horse circles and turns with perfect obedience to the rein, we may, while keeping him at a walk, get an assistant to quietly mount into the trap, and give him the reins, as soon as the animal shews that he does not mind his presence behind him. The horse may now be taken into the open, and circled and turned by the man in the cart, a few times, before being taken for a steady drive.

Before the animal is harnessed, we should satisfy ourselves that the jibbing is not caused by any ailment, such as sore shoulders, which should be cured before we proceed further.

We should be careful not to use any words, or other signals that might remind the animal of previous acts of disobedience which, presumedly, had been successful in their object. As before remarked, I like to use, when breaking a horse of jibbing, a plain bridle; because I find animals go kinder without blinkers, than with them.

If a jibber appears afraid of the whip, it is well, in the first instance, to prove to him (see page 241) that we are not going to hurt him, when we crack it, or flourish it about.

Kicking.—We should put the animal through the course of discipline described in Chapter IX. The strait-jacket put on loosely, or the kicking-strap, will prevent him doing any mischief. Before putting the animal between the shafts, he should be well driven with the long reins, for from thirty minutes, to an hour; so that he may pay attention to the indications of the rein. If he persists in kicking, he should be made to lie down, and, then, gentled on the ground; or he may be kept down with his head turned round (see page 158) until he gives in. Mr. Mitchell, A.V.D., who is an excellent breaker, tells me that he has obtained admirable results with bad kickers, by fixing, parallel to their sides, two stout poles, each about 7 feet long, secured in front of the chest and behind the quarters, so that the animal cannot get free from them; and then letting him kick, till he is tired. This method, by giving the horse nothing to kick at, will soon teach him the uselessness of doing so. In most cases, I would be inclined to use the rope-twitch, in order to make the horse learn the salutary lesson of connecting, in his own mind, the idea of punishment, with the practice of his favourite vice.

The old expedient of tying a kicker’s tail to the splinter bar, is often successful in breaking the animal of this objectionable habit. In other cases, it serves only to aggravate the vice. The tail may, here, be easily secured by a double sheet bend (see Fig. 30).

Lying down.—The habit of lying down in harness, is, no doubt, in many instances, difficult to cure. To accomplish this end, particular attention should be paid to making the animal obey the indications of the rein, by driving him on foot with the long reins. The trap used to practise him in, should be a very light, two-wheeled one. If he lies down, a sharp slap on his muzzle will generally make him jump up. The lesson, of course, should be given in the enclosure. In extreme cases, he should be put through the discipline detailed for jibbing.

Plunging forward at starting.—Use the rope-twitch (see page 113); or drive the animal, in the enclosure, on foot, with the long reins, while he is in the trap, after having given him a good long mouthing lesson (see page 172), and practise him at circling, turning, starting, and pulling up.

Pulling away from the pole.—See that the coupling chain is not too tight. Treat as for “Hanging against the pole” (page 236).

Undue fear of the whip.—Circle the horse with the long reins on foot (see page 172), and get an assistant to crack the whip all about him, without touching him with it, until he ceases to mind it; or do so, while he is tied head and tail. An application or two of the rope-twitch (see page 113) will expedite matters. The breaker should “make much of” the horse, when the animal stands quietly under the provocation given.

CHAPTER XV.

AGGRESSIVENESS.

Biting.—Apply the wooden gag (see page 145); tie up one fore-leg, or put on the strait-jacket; and gentle the horse all over, to shew him that he cannot bite, and that, when he vainly attempts to do so, he will hurt his mouth, by the pressure of the gag on his gums. On this account, its action is most salutary, and differs entirely from that of a muzzle, which simply protects the object of the animal’s resentment, without either checking the practice of the habit, or punishing him for indulging in it. I need hardly say, that, with the gag on, the horse is unable to bring his teeth together. The fore-leg may be let down, or the strait-jacket taken off, as soon as the horse is quiet to handle with the gag alone. This instrument may be kept in the horse’s mouth, for an hour at a time, during which period he should be handled with gentleness and freedom; particular care being taken not to irritate the animal, whose confidence and affection we should now endeavour to win. The worst biter ought to be rendered safe to handle, when the gag is out of his mouth, by three of these lessons a day, for two or three days. For safety-sake, the breaker might teach the horse the use of the word “steady!” with the rope-twitch (see page 113). Though many bad, treacherous biters have passed through my hands, I have never met one that would attempt to bite when the gag was taken out of his mouth, after he had been gentled, with it on, for a quarter of an hour, or even less. It might be advisable, with very vicious horses, to make them lie down, and hold them with their heads turned round, until they had “given in” (see page 158).

Kicking.—A horse that tries to deliberately kick anyone that comes within reach, may be broken of the habit by the rope-twitch (see page 113); or by making him lie down (see page 153). In such cases, it is well to thoroughly mouth the animal on foot with the long reins; so as to make him more attentive to the indications of the rein, than to the practice of his favourite vice. The man who drives on foot, in the enclosure, is secure from getting kicked by the horse; for, if the animal attempts to lash out at him, he can always pull the horse’s head round with the rein. Mouthing on foot, is specially applicable to horses that are in the habit of kicking at other horses, hounds, etc.

It is advisable to teach a kicker to turn his hind-quarters away from us (see page 86), when we approach him; supposing, of course, that he is free to do so.

Savaging.—Put the animal through the discipline advised for biting, in the preceding paragraph; give several (say, half-a-dozen) good mouthing lessons, with the long reins, on foot; and, if the animal be inclined to savage horses, or men, while being ridden, substitute for the ordinary breaking snaffle, the wooden gag (see page 145) during his mouthing lessons; and, also, ride him in it, for a few times. Savaging at polo may be easily cured in this manner.

An expert breaker can always manage to pull round a horse that rushes at him, while the animal is being driven on foot. Even when the horse backs and kicks, as well as attempts to savage, the driver can easily keep him in control, by pulling him round, alternately, with each rein. One has, naturally, to be quicker when a horse rushes at one than when he backs. I confine the expression, “savaging,” to the habit some animals have of worrying the object of their dislike, with or without rushing at it; and, “biting,” to the simple act of snapping with the teeth. Practical horsemen will understand this somewhat arbitrary distinction. I may remark that horses often bite, without, apparently, any vicious intention.

Striking out in front.—We may tie up one fore-leg, put the strait-jacket on, apply the rope-twitch, or tie the horse head and tail, and then gentle both fore-legs. The use of the rope-twitch will, generally, be found to be the quickest method.

CHAPTER XVI.

RIDING AND DRIVING THE NEWLY-BROKEN HORSE.

Having made the horse as perfect as we can on foot, we should complete his education by riding him with skill and judgment. If we find that he shews signs of becoming unruly, or of recommencing some of his old tricks, it is far better to get off, and make him steady, in the manner before detailed, before proceeding further; than to risk any chance of a defeat while on his back. If he happen to develop such symptoms, we may feel assured that the fault is on our side, in having carried out his instruction on foot, in an imperfect manner. As I accord unqualified admiration for our best English and Irish styles of riding, whether on the flat, across country, or in the school, I shall refrain from going over old ground, and shall content myself, here, with adding a few remarks which have special reference to the recently handled animal.

When mounting, the breaker should make the animal stand perfectly still, until it gets the proper indication to move forward.

He should make the horse carry himself in good style, by keeping him up to the bit with the pressure of the leg, and by having a nice light feeling on his mouth.

All horses should be taught to rein back with ease and precision.

According as the animal requires to be bent and collected for his own particular work, so should he be instructed in turning, circling and changing, with the proper leg, shouldering in, and passaging. When the reins are taken up in both hands, they should be used in the same style as that recommended for the long reins (see page 174). If necessary, the horse may now be taught to obey the reins when held in one hand, and may be practised in the use of the curb.

When the horse has learnt to go smoothly, his mouth should be interfered with as little as possible. I am entirely against the practice of keeping the animal in a constant state of attention to signals from the reins; as it makes him rely on his rider, rather than on his own cleverness, to extricate him out of difficulties, and renders him uncertain, and lacking in self-confidence. This is especially the case in jumping, at which work the rider should limit his interference, if the horse is going too fast, to dropping his hands, and taking a pull, thirty or forty yards from the fence, and, then, letting the horse measure his own distance, and take off, as suits him best. If the animal’s attention be distracted by the rider’s interference at this critical moment, the risk of an accident will be greatly enhanced. The foregoing is the substance of the advice given by Mr. John Hubert Moore to his pupil, that well-known fine horseman, Colonel Hickman of the 21st Hussars, who attributes the immunity he has enjoyed from bad falls, over all kinds of country, and on all sorts of horses, to its rigid observance.

When the newly-broken horse is put into the shafts, he should be driven according to the principles laid down for riding him, in so far as they apply to harness work.

CHAPTER XVII.

STABLE VICES.

Difficult and vicious to catch.—If the animal be viciously inclined, make him quiet by the methods described in the preceding chapters. Teach him to come up to you when you call him (see page 261); and to turn his quarters away from you, when you approach him (see page 87).

Hanging back on the head-stall.—The Americans employ the crupper leading-rein (see page 148), to hitch up a horse given to this fault. I have been told that a good way is to shorten the rack chain, by tying it with a piece of thin twine, so that when the animal pulls on the chain, he will break the twine, and will then cease to pull, on the presumed supposition that he has broken the chain. For horses with this habit, it is common to place a broad band across the lower part of the stall, so as to allow the animal to rest against it, if he likes.

Kicking.—See Chapter XV. We may, also, teach the animal to “stand over” in his stall, by pulling his head round with a cord attached to the side of the head-stall, passed through a ring on the top of the roller, and carried outside of the stall, while giving, simultaneously with the pull on the cord, some appropriate verbal order, such as “over!” (See Fig. 47.)

Kicking at night.—I have no experience in breaking horses of this habit. I would suggest the employment of the strait-waistcoat, which should

be loose enough to allow the animal to lie down and get up. I have seen it recommended, in such cases, to hang some soft object, such as a large bag filled with hay, behind the animal, so that, when he kicked, it would give to the stroke, and would then swing back and hit him, without hurting him; the effect being that the horse would get tired of kicking the inoffensive object, and would, accordingly, drop the habit. If this method be adopted, I would suggest that the animal should, before being left for the night, be accustomed to the stuffed bag, or whatever else is used, touching him. Tying up one fore-leg, or applying the rope-twitch, will keep him quiet while this is being done. I take for granted that he has been, previously, made thoroughly docile, with the exception of this particular vice. The strait-jacket, loosely put on, would, I have no doubt, prevent the kicking. If it was properly applied, and, gradually let out, say, a hole or two, each night, it would, in all probability, break the horse of the habit.

Pawing at night.—I have prevented the practice of this vice by employing a spancel (coupling strap) to connect the animal’s fore-legs together, so as to give him freedom to lie down, but not to paw. The use of this strap would, no doubt, in time, cure the vice.

Pawing back the litter.—I note that a correspondent, replying to a query, in the Field, as to some means of stopping this practice, which causes the horse to sleep, more or less, on the bare floor, states that connecting the fore-legs in the manner I have just described, will accomplish the object in view, and, after a few repetitions, will wean the animal from the habit.

Rubbing the tail.—Although this vice comes more within the province of the veterinary surgeon, than within that of the breaker, a few remarks on it may not, here, be out of place. Mr. D. C. Pallin, A. V. D., who is a thorough good authority on all

matters connected with horses, tells me that he has always found the plan of tying the animal’s tail round, with two separate pieces of tape (see Fig. 48) to be efficacious in stopping the practice of this habit. I may add, that this result may, also, as a rule, be obtained by the application, with the finger, from time to time, of a little blue mercurial ointment, round the inside of the anus. If the rubbing be due to the presence of worms, or to skin disease, appropriate remedies should be employed.

Sleeping standing.—There are many horses that will never, voluntarily, lie down—a habit which seriously detracts from their capacity for work. Such horses might be taught to lie down (see page 153), and, when they had done so, might be kept in the recumbent position by the strait-jacket. Having no experience in this matter, I offer the advice, merely, as a possibly useful suggestion. In all cases, a good, deep bed of straw will be a strong inducement for a horse to lie down.

CHAPTER XVIII.

TEACHING THE HORSE TRICKS.

“Begging.”—The horse may be taught to “beg”—that is, to stand with one fore-leg bent and off the ground—by attaching a strap, or cord, to the pastern of that limb, and, then, pulling up the foot, while at the same time, repeating the word “beg!” After a little, a cutting whip, or cane, to tap the leg, may be substituted for the cord.

Bowing.—While standing at the animal’s shoulder, lightly prick him on the breast with a pin; so as to make him bend his neck, and bite at the offending object. He will, thus, soon learn to make his bow, at the mere advance of the hand in the direction of the indicated part.

Circling steadily for circus-work.—Fix the horse’s head in position, so as to obtain adequate control, by side-reins; and circle the horse in the ring, with the long reins (see page 172), until he learns to canter round, at a steady, uniform rate of speed. Gradually dispense with the use of the long reins.

Coming up to call.—We may make the horse come up to us, when we call him, in two ways: 1. By getting him to stand still in the manner described on page 86; and making him come up, by threatening him with the whip, alternately, on either side. In this way, he can be taught to come up, by, simply, holding up the whip. 2. By the use of the Comanche bridle (see Figs. 49, 50, and 51), in making the horse turn round towards one, first, at one side, and, then, on the other; always accompanying the pull of the cord, with the words, “Come here!” or some similar expression. Mr. C. G. Frasier taught me this method.

Following.—See preceding paragraph.

Jumping over another Horse, etc.—Let us suppose that we want to make one horse stand

perfectly still, and unheld, while another jumps over him. We might, then, adopt the following procedure. Take an enclosed ring, like that of a circus, and close to its side, and on one of its diameters, construct a trench about 3 feet deep, and 2 feet 6 inches wide, with a ramp leading

down to it. Within this trench, place a clotheshorse, or other convenient stand, with rugs over it, and teach, with the long reins (see page 172), the jumper to go round the circle, and jump this

stand. We should continue the instruction, until he will jump it without reins. To attain this, when he is loose, we may have to keep on the standing martingale, or use side-reins; so as to obtain the necessary control. We may, then, substitute, for the dummy, the real horse, and teach him to stand perfectly still, by means of the rope-twitch (see page 113). All that, now, remains, is to gradually fill up the trench, while continuing the lessons.

Kissing.—This is done by accustoming the horse to take some coveted bit of food out of one’s mouth.

Laughing.—This is accomplished in the same way, as a horse is taught to shake his head, by pricking him with a pin, except that, here, the irritation is applied to the muzzle. The horse, thus, learns, on the signal being given, to turn up his upper lip, and shew his teeth. I forget where I, first, saw mention of this trick, which appears to me, neither useful, nor amusing.

Lying down.—Make the horse lie down in the manner described on page 153. When he does so, without offering any resistance, let down the strapped-up leg, and repeat the lesson, until perfect obedience is obtained. We may, then, take off the throwing gear, and make him lie down, by drawing his head round to, say, the near side, with the rein, while standing alongside the off shoulder. The horse will, now, easily learn to lie down, on receiving a signal to do so, by bringing his head round, or, even, by simply saying the words, “Lie down,” if they have been employed from the commencement of the teaching. It is, always, well to conduct these lessons on a soft piece of ground with plenty of litter on it; so as to afford the animal an inducement to lie down. Colonel Salkeld of the 2nd Bengal Cavalry has suggested to me the advisability of giving this instruction to army horses, when ordered, after parade, at a time when they are, more or less, tired.

“No.”—Take a pin, and prick the horse on the crest with it, until he shakes his head, which he will, readily, do, on that part becoming irritated; as that action is the only means he possesses of getting rid of any annoying object which may pitch on that region. By continuing to touch the horse with the pin, we can make him so sensitive as to shake his head, when touched, only, by the finger; and, finally, even by, merely, raising the hand, which will be a suitable signal to make an animal signify his dissent from a question he may be asked. This is an old circus trick.

Obeying without reins.—Mr. Rockwell, the American horse-tamer, instructed three horses so well, that he was able to drive them together in a trap, and make them moderate their speed, turn, stop, and go on, in perfect obedience, by signals, without reins. Professor Sample used to drive tandem with a leader that did his work without either reins, or traces! The following would be appropriate signals for performing these feats:—“Clicking” with the tongue; for “go on.” “Steady”; for “moderate speed.” Holding up whip, or saying “whoa!” for “stop.” Holding whip to the left, or “left”; for “turn to the left.” Holding whip to the right, or “right”; for “turn to the right.”

The right-about-turn, and left-about-turn, might be indicated by bringing the whip round, to the right rear, or to the left rear, as the case might be. The signals should be taught the horse by employing them, on all occasions, when using the equivalent indications of the rein, which, to be additionally impressive, should be given sharper than usual.

Picking up a handkerchief, etc.—This is, usually, taught while standing at the horse’s side, by pricking him on the ribs with a pin, or pinching him, so as to make him turn round and snap, and, consequently, to seize with his teeth, a handkerchief that is held in a convenient position for him to do so. When he catches hold of the handkerchief, the teacher should take it gently away, and should substitute some appropriate dainty. The horse will, then, soon learn to recognise the fact, that he gets a reward for taking hold of the handkerchief; and, then, can be readily taught to pick it up, or to take it off one of his legs, to which it is loosely tied. Horses that are naturally ticklish, and inclined to snap, are the quickest to learn this trick, in this manner. Instead of getting the horse to catch hold by irritating him, the same object may be obtained by tying up, in the handkerchief, a piece of carrot, or other bonne bouche, and inducing the animal to lift up the handkerchief, in his endeavour to get at the contained morsel.

See-sawing on a plank, etc.—Employ the rope-twitch (see Figs. 19-22, pages 108-18), and Comanche bridle (see Figs. 49-51).

Shaking hands.—Teach, as in “begging, q.v., the animal to advance his foot, by pulling it forward.

Shaking the head.—See “No.”

Waltzing.—Tie the horse head and tail (see Fig. 45, page 200), and make him go round by flourishing the whip. As the animal obeys, gradually slacken out the cord, until it can be removed.

“Yes.”—See “Bowing.”

CHAPTER XIX.

TESTING A HORSE’S MANNERS, MOUTH, AND TEMPER.

If we circle a horse with the long reins (see page 168), turn, jump, and rein him back, we shall be able to form a good idea of his manners, mouth, and temper, by the way in which he goes through his “facings.” We may, further, test him, by cracking a whip near him, touching him all over with a long pole, and gently prodding him in the ribs. As a final proof, we may make him lie down, in the manner described on page 153; when it will be easy to see whether he be actuated by a plucky spirit, or by a sullen disposition, which will, always, cause him to adopt a policy of passive resistance. The methods I have here, briefly described, are of great practical value.

CHAPTER XX.

ON IMPROVISED GEAR.

Although I have described in the foregoing pages, a variety of special appliances; still it is well to draw attention to the fact that the whole system of breaking can be carried out with gear which can be improvised without difficulty. We can make a standing martingale with a piece of doubled cord, knotted near the centre to form a loop for the girth to pass through; while the free ends are connected to the rings of the snaffle: or the cord, or strap may be attached to the ring of the breast-plate, in front of the chest; or, as mentioned on page 182, a cord may connect the rings of the standing martingale to those of the snaffle. A stirrup-leather will serve as a leg-strap (see Figs. 14 and 16, pages 101 and 102). Ropes will do for driving reins; a saddle, for a driving-pad (see Figs. 43 and 44, page 185). A head-stall, strong roller, couple of iron rings, crupper, stirrup-leather, pair of knee-caps, and a strong cord, are all that is required for making a horse lie down. An ordinary rope will serve to form a twitch. Any stable rug will do for blindfolding the horse. No special rope is needed for forming a halter, or for noosing a fore-leg. For lifting up a hind-leg, all that we require is a stout cord for the tail, and a stirrup-iron and leather, with which to make a hobble (see Fig. 34, page 144). For driving on foot, we would, of course, want a heavy smooth snaffle. I need hardly say, that a person who wished to go in thoroughly for breaking, ought to provide himself with a driving-pad, or pair of cross-trees, specially made (see Figs. 40 and 41, page 168). Either of these could be made for five-and-twenty shillings. The strait-jacket (see Fig. 25, page 122) is not a necessity.

APPENDIX.

Copy of Testimonial from Captain Hayes’ Trimulgherry Class.

The “Pioneer,” 18th November, 1885.

CAPTAIN HAYES’ HORSE-BREAKING.

To the Editor of the “Pioneer”.

Sir,—Captain Hayes is shortly going from this to the Bengal Presidency, and as during his stay he has taught his system of breaking in all sorts of nervous and vicious horses to a large number of people (and horses) here, I shall be much obliged if you can find room in the Pioneer for this (and I am but endorsing the opinion of many) my testimony to the excellence of his system. It is most easily acquired, and has only to be seen to be appreciated. His simple method of compelling a refractory horse to enter a railway-box is, in my opinion, alone worth all the money asked for the whole system.

Deccan.

C. F. Morton, Colonel.
14th Hussars.

Copy of Testimonial from Members of Captain Hayes’ Calcutta Class.

We, the undersigned, having attended a series of lectures conducted by Captain Hayes on the theory and practice of horse-breaking, hereby certify that Captain Hayes has completely succeeded in all that he promised to effect. We have seen him cure confirmed buck-jumpers and jibbers, so that they were quietly ridden and driven round the school; also savage or nervous horses have speedily been reduced to quietness and obedience. All this had been effected without violence or cruelty. His system appears to us admirable:—

• “F. B. Peacock, C. S.,     }
• Charles H. Moore,        } Stewards, Calcutta Turf Club.
• W. F. McDonnell, V. C.,}
• J. J. J. Keswick,               }
• H. S. Cunningham, High Court, Calcutta.
• J. Lambert, Deputy Commissioner of Police.
• F. W. Perman.
• S. W. Anderson.
• H. B. Beames.
• Francis J. E. Spring.
• A. Milton.
• T. Palmer.
• W. D. Kilburn.
• P. L. Richards.
• H. K. Gordon.
• Thos. Brae.
• R. John Charlton.
• F. Hilton.
• J. Lauter, V. S.
• J. G. Apcar.
• F. Aithison.
• J. Posford, C. S.
• C. Graf.
• J. D. Edwards, A. V. D.
• S. A. Apcar.
• F. J. Rowe.
• Wm. Macklin.
• A. Willson.
• Gopee Nauth Roy.
• Thos. R. Pratt.
• L. P. D. Broughton, Barrister-at-Law.
• Alex. Campbell.
• Wm. Duff Bruce.
• A. T. Rawlinson.
• Latham Hamilton.
• J. J. Reid, M. D.
• Frank Whitney.
• J. Hard.
• H. St. A. Goodrich.
• S. Keith Douglas.
• J. G. Dickson.
• Geo. Evans Gordon.
• Geo. Cheetham.
• A. J. S. Douglas.
• Chas. L. Johnstone.
• J. D. West.
• H. Paget.
• Arthur J. C. Forbes.
• Kil. Euler.
• Robert Philip Heilgers.
• J. A. Anderson.
• G. Wense.
• Charles Brock.
• A. R. MacIntosh.
• C. Deas.
• H. R. McInnes.
• J. R. Maples, Manager, Calcutta Tramways Co.
• John Croft.
• R. A. Turnbull, M.R.C.V.S.
• R. Hardie.
• J. A. Bourdillon, C. S.
• W. H. Egerton.
• H. Melvill, Bo. S. C.
• W. M. Beresford.
• R. E. S. Thomas.
• Wm. Charles Fox.
• Thomas A. Apcar.
• C. B. Jourdain.
• J. Leppoc Cappel, C. S.
• A. L. McDonell.
• T. A. St. Quinton, Major, 10th Hussars.
• O. Dignum.
• R. C. Onslow, 10th B. Lancers.
• A. A. Apcar.
• F. C. Barnes.
• Cecil Rawlinson, Captain, L. R.
• F. de C. H. Helbert, R. W., Fusiliers.
• E. V. Westamacott, C. S.”

“Indian Planters’ Gazette,” 9th March, 1886.

“Regarding a most determined jibber cured by Captain Hayes at Mozufferpore, Mr. Tom Barclay of Bhicanpore writes us as follows:—‘I have driven him daily, or rather Colonel Fergus Graham, who has been staying here, has driven him daily for miles, stopping at different places, and starting again, and we have never had any trouble. He trots nicely, and in fact goes as kindly as the most perfect trap horse ever foaled. Captain Hayes may congratulate himself on curing the most vicious, inveterate jibber in India. I tried to sell him in Calcutta for Rs.500, and no one would look at him. Now I would not take Rs.1,500, for he is as fine a trapper as there is in the country.’”

Copy of Testimonial from Captain Hayes’ Lucknow Class.

“We, the undersigned, wish to place on record our appreciation of Captain M. H. Hayes’ methods of breaking horses of all kinds. The methods are various, and are applicable to all sorts of unbroken or refractory horses; most simple in application, and thoroughly efficacious. Some of the subjects submitted to Captain Hayes to test his methods, were as follows:—