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Impressions of Spain

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A series of travel sketches records impressions gathered during journeys throughout Spain, moving between cities and regions. Individual chapters describe urban life, monuments, regional customs, food and press culture, and popular amusements such as bullfighting and dance, alongside accounts of Madrid's picture galleries, El Escorial, the Alhambra and provincial towns. The writing is anecdotal and episodic rather than systematic, combining practical notes on cuisine, newspapers, and mining with reflections on local character, festivals, and public entertainments presented as discrete sketches rather than an exhaustive survey.

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Title: Impressions of Spain

Author: Albert Frederick Calvert

Release date: July 18, 2019 [eBook #59944]
Most recently updated: January 24, 2021

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IMPRESSIONS OF SPAIN ***

Contents.

A few minor typographical errors have been corrected.
Index

List of Illustrations
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(etext transcriber's note)

 

 

IMPRESSIONS OF SPAIN.

 


Alfonso XIII.

IMPRESSIONS
OF SPAIN.

BY

ALBERT F. CALVERT, F.R.G.S.

AUTHOR OF
The Discovery of Australia,” “The Exploration of Australia,”
My Fourth Tour in Western Australia,”
The Political Value of our Colonies,”
etc., etc.




London:
GEORGE PHILIP & SON, LIMITED, 32, Fleet Street.
Liverpool:
PHILIP, SON & NEPHEW, 45-51, South Castle Street.
All rights reserved.
1903.







TO

SEÑOR DON SEBASTIAN BARRIS.

My dear Bárris,

As the pleasure and instruction I have derived from my different visits to Spain have been contributed to so largely by your unfailing kindness and invaluable counsel, so the culminating pleasure of this modest attempt to set down my impressions of your fair country lies in the privilege of inscribing the result to you. In you I shall ever feel that I have a firm and wise friend and lenient critic, and I beg you to enhance the obligation of friendship by accepting this dedication with the assurance of my regard and esteem.

Albert F. Calvert.

Royston,”
Swiss Cottage, N.W.

PREFACE.

THERE is a character in current drama who devoted his whole life to the writing of a book. He called it a “pamphlet,” because he had intended it to be a pamphlet when he started on his task, but in its completed state the work filled three mighty folio volumes. Although the present volume has not attained such gargantuan proportions, it is considerably longer than I had thought to make it. It is not put forward as an exhaustive or profound study of Spain and the Spaniards, but as a simple record of impressions of people I have met and places I have visited during a series of many journeyings in different parts of that greatly interesting and much misunderstood country. These impressions were meant, in the beginning, to form a small collection of sketches and appreciations; and, although the number has increased beyond the limits of my original intentions, the design and scope of the book have not been revised or amplified. The result of this desultory system of working is a string of disconnected chapters—the first fruits of fugitive note-book jottings collected over a period of several years—rather than a concentrated and comprehensive survey of the subject as a whole.

But the system was also fraught with an unforeseen technical difficulty, as I discovered when I came to arrange my illustrations. The photographs that I acquired—sometimes singly and sometimes in batches—during my frequent visits to Spain, increased out of all proportion to the “increasing purpose” of my manuscript, and in the end I was confronted with the alternative options of leaving out a great many of my most recent and best pictures of Granada and the Alhambra, or of publishing them en masse at the back of the volume.

The fact that I am even now engaged in gathering material and making notes for a work upon the Alhambra, which I hope shortly to publish, tempted me to hold these surplus illustrations in reserve. But I have hopes that the fragmentary nature of my material, and, in many cases, lack of style and finish in its transcription, may be atoned for by the variety and charm of the pictorial side of the book; and, with this desideratum in my mind, I decided to reproduce the overflow pictures in the form of an appendix.

To the many friends in Spain who have assisted me in my work, with counsel, information, practical aid, and inexhaustible hospitality, and particularly to Messrs. Hauser and Menet, Messrs. Laurent and Co., and Señor Garzon, the photographic artists who have supplied me with pictures beyond those I took myself, and favoured me with permission to reproduce them, I wish to tender my sincere and grateful thanks.

It may be that my personal relations with the Spanish people have been more fortunate than that of some other authors, whose books on Spain I have seen; but in a somewhat wide experience of countries and men, I have never met their equals in courtesy and true consideration to the stranger within their gates. I have encountered all sorts and conditions of men in the sunny South, the black North, and the thriving East of the kingdom, and from each and every one I have received nothing but kindness and good-will. I have written enthusiastically in the following pages about the Spaniards, for in every Spaniard I have met I feel that I have a friend.

A. F. C.

Authors’ Club,
London, S.W.,
    November, 1903.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Alfonso XIII. Frontispiece
PORTRAITS AND PICTURES.
 PAGE
The Family of Charles V., by Goya242
The Velasquez Gallery in the Museum, Madrid243
The Divine Family, by Murillo246
Bartolome Esteban, by Murillo247
The Divine Family, by Murillo249
The Divine Shepherd, by Murillo250
A Conception, by Murillo251
The King of Spain—1886, 1891, 1892, 1893, 1895, 1896, 1898, 1901, 1902255
The King and His Mother257
S. M. El Rey Alfonso XIII.259
S. A. Infanta Maria Teresa262
S. A. La Princesa de Asturias263
S. A. R. El Infante Don Carlos264
Antonio Fuentes224
Luis Mazzantini and Cuadrilla224
Guerrita. Bandillero224
The Surrender of Granada by Boabdil to Ferdinand and Isabella, 1492Appendix
VIEWS.
ALICANTE
Elche (Women Washing)1
Elche5
The Esplanade83
Esplanade and Wharf84
The “Martyr’s Promenade” 85, 86
(High Road)87
View of Elche88
Entrance to the Station, Elche91
MADRID
In Old Madrid10
Royal Palace11
A Corner in the Royal Palace12
The Throne Room, Royal Palace13
The River Manzanares15
Avenue of San Geronimo and Parliament House19
The “Puerta Del Sol,” from the Hotel de Paris23
The Bank of Spain27
The Counsellor of the Village31
An Orange Seller31
A Dancer31
Full List of Lottery Results31
Sketches in Spain35
A Milk Stall39
The Bull Ring41
EL ESCORIAL
Escorial Monastery, the Evangelist’s Court44
General View of the Monastery45
The Escorial Library47
Mass Book of Philip II., the Escorial Library48
The Royal Palace, Aranjuez49
BARCELONA
General View51
A Native of Catalonia53
The Cascade55
Señor Bárris’s House57
Snapshot in Señor Bárris’s Garden59
Rambla de las Flores61
The Colon (Columbus) Promenade65
The Columbus Column67
Plaza Del Rey68
Aragon Street69
Lyric Theatre56
Exhibition Hall56
Principal Theatre56
The Prim Memorial106
MONSERRAT
The Monastery71
TARRAGONA
The Aqueduct73
General View74
SAGUNTO
The Roman Theatre75
TORTOSA
General View76
CASTELLON
Winding of the High Road on Cuervo Mountain77
VALENCIA
St. Catherine’s Square and Tower78
General View79
The Exchange81
A Valenciana82
Trinity Bridge84
Glorieta Fountain84
The Mediterranean Shore84
Beaching the Boats84
Valencian Beauties240
A Tartana92
CARTHAGENA
General View89
MURCIA
A Native of 92, 93
A Noon-time Halt92
The Harvest Cart92
A Cartload of Tinajas92
TOLEDO
Church of Santa Maria de la Blanca95
The Visagra Gate96
The Door of the Sun97
The Cathedral99
St. Martin’s Bridge101
Church of San Juan de Los Reyes, Courtyard102
The Cathedral, Central Nave102
Exterior of High Altar102
The Lion Door 102, 104
The High Altar97
Sepulchre of Alonso de Carrillo104
General View of the Choir-stalls100
Interior100
Church of San Juan de Los Reyes, Retablo104
Interior104
Alcántara Door and Bridge98
Gate98
Façade of Santa Cruz98
The Cathedral98
Convent of San Juan de la PenitenciaAppendix
CÓRDOVA
Bridge and Cathedral104
The Mosque106
Cathedral, Choir Stalls106
General Interior View106
At the Fountain162
At the Spring162
In the Court of Oranges140
The Mosque, a Corner inAppendix
Interior
Cathedral, Tower
ANDALUSIA
Andalusian Gallantry160
BURGOS
The Cathedral, from the Castle109
SEGOVIA
A General View113
A Native114
AVILA
View of115
CIUDAD-REAL
General View116
CUENCA
The Valley of the Jucar117
View from San Juan Hill119
View of Cuenca120
GRANADA
View from the “Barranco de la Zorra” (The Fox’s Hole)125
The Wine Door127
Entrance To the Court of Lions128
The Infantas’ Tower131
El Generaliffe133
The Acequia Court, from Main Entrance134
La Alcaiceria135
View of Albaycin137
Courtyard of an Arab House139
The Generaliffe2
The Ladies’ Tower, The Alhambra15
The Gipsy Quarters15
A Street in Granada14
Arab Silk Market14
Showing the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada128
The Sacristy of the Cartuja Convent120
The Columbus Memorial140
Group of Gypsies140
Transept and High Altar, Cathedral122
THE ALHAMBRA
The Court of Lions 130, 132
Hall of Ambassadors 132
The Favourite’s Balcony132
The Court of Lions, A Little Temple in
A Peep into
Little Eastern Temple in
Fountain in
Hall of the Court of Justice and Court of Lions
Interior of the Mosque
The Captive’s Tower
The Sultan’s Bath
The Dressing Room
Hall of the Two Sisters
Hall of the Court of Justice
The Door of Justice
The Captive and Cadid Towers
Washington Irving Hotel
Entrances to the Alhambra
The Court of Myrtles
Gallery in
Palace of Charles V.
Roman Court
The Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada
The Royal Chapel, Cathedral
El Generaliffe, The Acequia Court
Cyprus Court
Gallery in the Acequia Court
A Corner of the Acequia Court
SEVILLE
General View, from the Top of the “Giralda,” Looking
East
143
Dancing Boys, Cathedral145
The Tower of the Gold146
Girls’ Court in the Alcázar148
Cathedral149
Entrance To the Alcázar150
The Alcázar, Ambassador’s Hall 151, 158
A Doorway in152
Cigar Makers154
A Sevillian155
The “Sevillanas” Dance156
Cathedral, Exterior146
Fifteenth Century Grating152
The Alcázar, Gardens 148, 150
Sultana’s Quarters158
Intercolumniation, where Don Fadrique was Assassinated158
The Court of Dolls152
San Fernando Square150
A Sevillian Patio162
A Street152
Gallery of Pilate’s House152
CADIZ
View from the Tavira Tower165
View from San Carlos Battery168
MÁLAGA
View from the “Farola Promenade”169
View from the “Gibralfaro”173
RONDA
The Gorge176
General View, with the Moorish Bridge of the “Tago de
Ronda”
177
HENDAYE
General View181
IRUN
General View182
PASAJES
View of the Town 183
GUIPÚZCOA
Pasajes de San Juan184
SAN SEBASTIAN
Concha Promenade185
BILBAO
Suburbs186
General View187
Vizcaya Bridge189
Old Bilbao190
The Arenal Promenade191
The Orconero Iron Ore Company’s Wharf in Luchana193
GALICIA
A Native195
Natives196
Views in Galicia199
PONTEVEDRA
General View of Redondela197
General View201
CORUÑA
General View taken from the Old Town200
VIGO
View from the Castle205
GIJON
The Wharf207
SANTANDER
The Port208
General View209
LEÓN
The Cathedral210
Cloister in Cathedral211
The Cathedral Choir Stalls211
View taken from the Cemetery212
SALAMANCA
General View213
View of the College, from the Irlandeses214
ZARAGOZA
“Independencia” Promenade215
Pilar Church217
A Flemish Dance218
The Bouquet—The Dawn of St. John’s Day160
NUEVALOS
At Nuevalos218
THE CORONATION OF ALFONSO XIII., 1902
The King’s Carriage264
Arrival at the Congress264
Procession of the Coronation Bull-Fight264
LINARES
General View340
PONFERRADA
View of the Castle340
BULL-FIGHTING.
The Procession221
Entrance of the Bull223
The Picador227
At Close Quarters230
A Turn with his Back to the Bull233
Fixing the Banderillas235
The Matador237
The Final Stroke239
Entertaining the Bull-Fighters160
Bull-Fighters at the Tavern240
A Picador240
MINING VIEWS.
BILBAO
The Union Mine270
Orconera Iron Ore Company278
Orconera Company’s Workings281
The Railway System283
Transport of Ore, Arcocha285
Los Altos Hornos del Disierto287
RIO TINTO
Terminus of the Mine Railway271
The Canal System272
San Dionisio Shaft306
Mines288
The Lago Cutting 289, 292
The Frames291
The Cuttings293
HUELVA
Portion of Works, and San Fernando Village276
Cementation Vats277
Head of the Sainte-Barbe Shaft305
ALMERIA
The Port of Almeria294
Washing for Alluvial Tin296
A Trench in Tin Ore299
AGUILAS
The Railway321
The Castle and Harbour324
PÁRAMO
The Old Gold Workings303
General View334
Alluvial Gold Washing 335
ESCURIAL
Portion of Buildings 309
A Cutting 310, 317
“Dolores,” “Jaime,” and Main Shaft 311, 313
Galapagar Smelting Works 313
Engine House and Blacksmith’s Shop315
Snapshot Showing Cutting318
HUÉRCAL
Bárris Cutting320
The Church322
Heaps of Copper Ore325
BADAJOZ
Las Palmas Bridge338
MAPS.
General Map of Spain1
Railway Map of Spain267
Mining Map of Spain273
Map Showing Alluvial Gold District in North-West Spain301