The Project Gutenberg eBook of Impressions of Spain
Title: Impressions of Spain
Author: Albert Frederick Calvert
Release date: July 18, 2019 [eBook #59944]
Most recently updated: January 24, 2021
Language: English
Credits: Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images available at The Internet Archive)
|
A few minor typographical errors have been corrected. List of Illustrations (etext transcriber's note) |
IMPRESSIONS OF SPAIN.
IMPRESSIONS
OF SPAIN.
BY
ALBERT F. CALVERT, F.R.G.S.
AUTHOR OF
“The Discovery of Australia,” “The Exploration of Australia,”
“My Fourth Tour in Western Australia,”
“The Political Value of our Colonies,”
etc., etc.
London:
GEORGE PHILIP & SON, LIMITED, 32, Fleet Street.
Liverpool:
PHILIP, SON & NEPHEW, 45-51, South Castle Street.
All rights reserved.
1903.
TO
SEÑOR DON SEBASTIAN BARRIS.
My dear Bárris,
As the pleasure and instruction I have derived from my different visits to Spain have been contributed to so largely by your unfailing kindness and invaluable counsel, so the culminating pleasure of this modest attempt to set down my impressions of your fair country lies in the privilege of inscribing the result to you. In you I shall ever feel that I have a firm and wise friend and lenient critic, and I beg you to enhance the obligation of friendship by accepting this dedication with the assurance of my regard and esteem.
Albert F. Calvert.
“Royston,”
Swiss Cottage, N.W.
PREFACE.
THERE is a character in current drama who devoted his whole life to the writing of a book. He called it a “pamphlet,” because he had intended it to be a pamphlet when he started on his task, but in its completed state the work filled three mighty folio volumes. Although the present volume has not attained such gargantuan proportions, it is considerably longer than I had thought to make it. It is not put forward as an exhaustive or profound study of Spain and the Spaniards, but as a simple record of impressions of people I have met and places I have visited during a series of many journeyings in different parts of that greatly interesting and much misunderstood country. These impressions were meant, in the beginning, to form a small collection of sketches and appreciations; and, although the number has increased beyond the limits of my original intentions, the design and scope of the book have not been revised or amplified. The result of this desultory system of working is a string of disconnected chapters—the first fruits of fugitive note-book jottings collected over a period of several years—rather than a concentrated and comprehensive survey of the subject as a whole.
But the system was also fraught with an unforeseen technical difficulty, as I discovered when I came to arrange my illustrations. The photographs that I acquired—sometimes singly and sometimes in batches—during my frequent visits to Spain, increased out of all proportion to the “increasing purpose” of my manuscript, and in the end I was confronted with the alternative options of leaving out a great many of my most recent and best pictures of Granada and the Alhambra, or of publishing them en masse at the back of the volume.
The fact that I am even now engaged in gathering material and making notes for a work upon the Alhambra, which I hope shortly to publish, tempted me to hold these surplus illustrations in reserve. But I have hopes that the fragmentary nature of my material, and, in many cases, lack of style and finish in its transcription, may be atoned for by the variety and charm of the pictorial side of the book; and, with this desideratum in my mind, I decided to reproduce the overflow pictures in the form of an appendix.
To the many friends in Spain who have assisted me in my work, with counsel, information, practical aid, and inexhaustible hospitality, and particularly to Messrs. Hauser and Menet, Messrs. Laurent and Co., and Señor Garzon, the photographic artists who have supplied me with pictures beyond those I took myself, and favoured me with permission to reproduce them, I wish to tender my sincere and grateful thanks.
It may be that my personal relations with the Spanish people have been more fortunate than that of some other authors, whose books on Spain I have seen; but in a somewhat wide experience of countries and men, I have never met their equals in courtesy and true consideration to the stranger within their gates. I have encountered all sorts and conditions of men in the sunny South, the black North, and the thriving East of the kingdom, and from each and every one I have received nothing but kindness and good-will. I have written enthusiastically in the following pages about the Spaniards, for in every Spaniard I have met I feel that I have a friend.
A. F. C.
Authors’ Club,
London, S.W.,
November, 1903.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
| Alfonso XIII. | Frontispiece |
| PORTRAITS AND PICTURES. | |
|---|---|
| PAGE | |
| The Family of Charles V., by Goya | 242 |
| The Velasquez Gallery in the Museum, Madrid | 243 |
| The Divine Family, by Murillo | 246 |
| Bartolome Esteban, by Murillo | 247 |
| The Divine Family, by Murillo | 249 |
| The Divine Shepherd, by Murillo | 250 |
| A Conception, by Murillo | 251 |
| The King of Spain—1886, 1891, 1892, 1893, 1895, 1896, 1898, 1901, 1902 | 255 |
| The King and His Mother | 257 |
| S. M. El Rey Alfonso XIII. | 259 |
| S. A. Infanta Maria Teresa | 262 |
| S. A. La Princesa de Asturias | 263 |
| S. A. R. El Infante Don Carlos | 264 |
| Antonio Fuentes | 224 |
| Luis Mazzantini and Cuadrilla | 224 |
| Guerrita. Bandillero | 224 |
| The Surrender of Granada by Boabdil to Ferdinand and Isabella, 1492 | Appendix |
| VIEWS. | |
| ALICANTE | |
| Elche (Women Washing) | 1 |
| Elche | 5 |
| The Esplanade | 83 |
| Esplanade and Wharf | 84 |
| The “Martyr’s Promenade” | 85, 86 |
| “ “(High Road) | 87 |
| View of Elche | 88 |
| Entrance to the Station, Elche | 91 |
| MADRID | |
| In Old Madrid | 10 |
| Royal Palace | 11 |
| A Corner in the Royal Palace | 12 |
| The Throne Room, Royal Palace | 13 |
| The River Manzanares | 15 |
| Avenue of San Geronimo and Parliament House | 19 |
| The “Puerta Del Sol,” from the Hotel de Paris | 23 |
| The Bank of Spain | 27 |
| The Counsellor of the Village | 31 |
| An Orange Seller | 31 |
| A Dancer | 31 |
| Full List of Lottery Results | 31 |
| Sketches in Spain | 35 |
| A Milk Stall | 39 |
| The Bull Ring | 41 |
| EL ESCORIAL | |
| Escorial Monastery, the Evangelist’s Court | 44 |
| General View of the Monastery | 45 |
| The Escorial Library | 47 |
| Mass Book of Philip II., the Escorial Library | 48 |
| The Royal Palace, Aranjuez | 49 |
| BARCELONA | |
| General View | 51 |
| A Native of Catalonia | 53 |
| The Cascade | 55 |
| Señor Bárris’s House | 57 |
| Snapshot in Señor Bárris’s Garden | 59 |
| “Rambla de las Flores” | 61 |
| The Colon (Columbus) Promenade | 65 |
| The Columbus Column | 67 |
| Plaza Del Rey | 68 |
| Aragon Street | 69 |
| Lyric Theatre | 56 |
| Exhibition Hall | 56 |
| Principal Theatre | 56 |
| The Prim Memorial | 106 |
| MONSERRAT | |
| The Monastery | 71 |
| TARRAGONA | |
| The Aqueduct | 73 |
| General View | 74 |
| SAGUNTO | |
| The Roman Theatre | 75 |
| TORTOSA | |
| General View | 76 |
| CASTELLON | |
| Winding of the High Road on Cuervo Mountain | 77 |
| VALENCIA | |
| St. Catherine’s Square and Tower | 78 |
| General View | 79 |
| The Exchange | 81 |
| A Valenciana | 82 |
| Trinity Bridge | 84 |
| Glorieta Fountain | 84 |
| The Mediterranean Shore | 84 |
| Beaching the Boats | 84 |
| Valencian Beauties | 240 |
| A Tartana | 92 |
| CARTHAGENA | |
| General View | 89 |
| MURCIA | |
| A Native of | 92, 93 |
| A Noon-time Halt | 92 |
| The Harvest Cart | 92 |
| A Cartload of Tinajas | 92 |
| TOLEDO | |
| Church of Santa Maria de la Blanca | 95 |
| The Visagra Gate | 96 |
| The Door of the Sun | 97 |
| The Cathedral | 99 |
| St. Martin’s Bridge | 101 |
| Church of San Juan de Los Reyes, Courtyard | 102 |
| The Cathedral, Central Nave | 102 |
| “Exterior of High Altar | 102 |
| “The Lion Door | 102, 104 |
| “The High Altar | 97 |
| “Sepulchre of Alonso de Carrillo | 104 |
| “General View of the Choir-stalls | 100 |
| “Interior | 100 |
| Church of San Juan de Los Reyes, Retablo | 104 |
| “ “ “ Interior | 104 |
| Alcántara Door and Bridge | 98 |
| “ Gate | 98 |
| Façade of Santa Cruz | 98 |
| The Cathedral | 98 |
| Convent of San Juan de la Penitencia | Appendix |
| CÓRDOVA | |
| Bridge and Cathedral | 104 |
| The Mosque | 106 |
| Cathedral, Choir Stalls | 106 |
| “ General Interior View | 106 |
| At the Fountain | 162 |
| At the Spring | 162 |
| In the Court of Oranges | 140 |
| The Mosque, a Corner in | Appendix |
| “Interior | “ |
| Cathedral, Tower | “ |
| ANDALUSIA | |
| Andalusian Gallantry | 160 |
| BURGOS | |
| The Cathedral, from the Castle | 109 |
| SEGOVIA | |
| A General View | 113 |
| A Native | 114 |
| AVILA | |
| View of | 115 |
| CIUDAD-REAL | |
| General View | 116 |
| CUENCA | |
| The Valley of the Jucar | 117 |
| View from San Juan Hill | 119 |
| View of Cuenca | 120 |
| GRANADA | |
| View from the “Barranco de la Zorra” (The Fox’s Hole) | 125 |
| The Wine Door | 127 |
| Entrance To the Court of Lions | 128 |
| The Infantas’ Tower | 131 |
| El Generaliffe | 133 |
| “ “The Acequia Court, from Main Entrance | 134 |
| La Alcaiceria | 135 |
| View of Albaycin | 137 |
| Courtyard of an Arab House | 139 |
| The Generaliffe | 2 |
| The Ladies’ Tower, The Alhambra | 15 |
| The Gipsy Quarters | 15 |
| A Street in Granada | 14 |
| Arab Silk Market | 14 |
| Showing the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada | 128 |
| The Sacristy of the Cartuja Convent | 120 |
| The Columbus Memorial | 140 |
| Group of Gypsies | 140 |
| Transept and High Altar, Cathedral | 122 |
| THE ALHAMBRA | |
| The Court of Lions | 130, 132 |
| Hall of Ambassadors | 132 |
| The Favourite’s Balcony | 132 |
| The Court of Lions, A Little Temple in | “ |
| “ A Peep into | “ |
| “Little Eastern Temple in | “ |
| “Fountain in | “ |
| Hall of the Court of Justice and Court of Lions | “ |
| Interior of the Mosque | “ |
| The Captive’s Tower | “ |
| The Sultan’s Bath | “ |
| The Dressing Room | “ |
| Hall of the Two Sisters | “ |
| Hall of the Court of Justice | “ |
| The Door of Justice | “ |
| The Captive and Cadid Towers | “ |
| Washington Irving Hotel | “ |
| Entrances to the Alhambra | “ |
| The Court of Myrtles | “ |
| “Gallery in | “ |
| Palace of Charles V. | “ |
| “Roman Court | “ |
| The Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada | “ |
| The Royal Chapel, Cathedral | “ |
| El Generaliffe, The Acequia Court | “ |
| “Cyprus Court | “ |
| “Gallery in the Acequia Court | “ |
| “A Corner of the Acequia Court | “ |
| SEVILLE | |
| General View, from the Top of the “Giralda,” Looking East | 143 |
| Dancing Boys, Cathedral | 145 |
| The Tower of the Gold | 146 |
| Girls’ Court in the Alcázar | 148 |
| Cathedral | 149 |
| Entrance To the Alcázar | 150 |
| The Alcázar, Ambassador’s Hall | 151, 158 |
| “A Doorway in | 152 |
| Cigar Makers | 154 |
| A Sevillian | 155 |
| The “Sevillanas” Dance | 156 |
| Cathedral, Exterior | 146 |
| “Fifteenth Century Grating | 152 |
| The Alcázar, Gardens | 148, 150 |
| “Sultana’s Quarters | 158 |
| “Intercolumniation, where Don Fadrique was Assassinated | 158 |
| “The Court of Dolls | 152 |
| San Fernando Square | 150 |
| A Sevillian Patio | 162 |
| A Street | 152 |
| Gallery of Pilate’s House | 152 |
| CADIZ | |
| View from the Tavira Tower | 165 |
| View from San Carlos Battery | 168 |
| MÁLAGA | |
| View from the “Farola Promenade” | 169 |
| View from the “Gibralfaro” | 173 |
| RONDA | |
| The Gorge | 176 |
| General View, with the Moorish Bridge of the “Tago de Ronda” | 177 |
| HENDAYE | |
| General View | 181 |
| IRUN | |
| General View | 182 |
| PASAJES | |
| View of the Town | 183 |
| GUIPÚZCOA | |
| Pasajes de San Juan | 184 |
| SAN SEBASTIAN | |
| Concha Promenade | 185 |
| BILBAO | |
| Suburbs | 186 |
| General View | 187 |
| Vizcaya Bridge | 189 |
| Old Bilbao | 190 |
| The Arenal Promenade | 191 |
| The Orconero Iron Ore Company’s Wharf in Luchana | 193 |
| GALICIA | |
| A Native | 195 |
| Natives | 196 |
| Views in Galicia | 199 |
| PONTEVEDRA | |
| General View of Redondela | 197 |
| General View | 201 |
| CORUÑA | |
| General View taken from the Old Town | 200 |
| VIGO | |
| View from the Castle | 205 |
| GIJON | |
| The Wharf | 207 |
| SANTANDER | |
| The Port | 208 |
| General View | 209 |
| LEÓN | |
| The Cathedral | 210 |
| Cloister in Cathedral | 211 |
| The Cathedral Choir Stalls | 211 |
| View taken from the Cemetery | 212 |
| SALAMANCA | |
| General View | 213 |
| View of the College, from the Irlandeses | 214 |
| ZARAGOZA | |
| “Independencia” Promenade | 215 |
| Pilar Church | 217 |
| A Flemish Dance | 218 |
| The Bouquet—The Dawn of St. John’s Day | 160 |
| NUEVALOS | |
| At Nuevalos | 218 |
| THE CORONATION OF ALFONSO XIII., 1902 | |
| The King’s Carriage | 264 |
| Arrival at the Congress | 264 |
| Procession of the Coronation Bull-Fight | 264 |
| LINARES | |
| General View | 340 |
| PONFERRADA | |
| View of the Castle | 340 |
| BULL-FIGHTING. | |
| The Procession | 221 |
| Entrance of the Bull | 223 |
| The Picador | 227 |
| At Close Quarters | 230 |
| A Turn with his Back to the Bull | 233 |
| Fixing the Banderillas | 235 |
| The Matador | 237 |
| The Final Stroke | 239 |
| Entertaining the Bull-Fighters | 160 |
| Bull-Fighters at the Tavern | 240 |
| A Picador | 240 |
| MINING VIEWS. | |
| BILBAO | |
| The Union Mine | 270 |
| Orconera Iron Ore Company | 278 |
| Orconera Company’s Workings | 281 |
| The Railway System | 283 |
| Transport of Ore, Arcocha | 285 |
| Los Altos Hornos del Disierto | 287 |
| RIO TINTO | |
| Terminus of the Mine Railway | 271 |
| The Canal System | 272 |
| San Dionisio Shaft | 306 |
| Mines | 288 |
| The Lago Cutting | 289, 292 |
| The Frames | 291 |
| The Cuttings | 293 |
| HUELVA | |
| Portion of Works, and San Fernando Village | 276 |
| Cementation Vats | 277 |
| Head of the Sainte-Barbe Shaft | 305 |
| ALMERIA | |
| The Port of Almeria | 294 |
| Washing for Alluvial Tin | 296 |
| A Trench in Tin Ore | 299 |
| AGUILAS | |
| The Railway | 321 |
| The Castle and Harbour | 324 |
| PÁRAMO | |
| The Old Gold Workings | 303 |
| General View | 334 |
| Alluvial Gold Washing | 335 |
| ESCURIAL | |
| Portion of Buildings | 309 |
| A Cutting | 310, 317 |
| “Dolores,” “Jaime,” and Main Shaft | 311, 313 |
| Galapagar Smelting Works | 313 |
| Engine House and Blacksmith’s Shop | 315 |
| Snapshot Showing Cutting | 318 |
| HUÉRCAL | |
| Bárris Cutting | 320 |
| The Church | 322 |
| Heaps of Copper Ore | 325 |
| BADAJOZ | |
| Las Palmas Bridge | 338 |
| MAPS. | |
| General Map of Spain | 1 |
| Railway Map of Spain | 267 |
| Mining Map of Spain | 273 |
| Map Showing Alluvial Gold District in North-West Spain | 301 |