India Impressions, With some notes of Ceylon during a winter tour, 1906-7.

INDEX

• Abu, Mount, 62
• Adam’s Peak, 302, 311
• Aden, outward and homeward call at, 12–15, 314
• Adinath, Jain, pontiff, 131
• Adyar Library, 247
• Afghanistan, Amir of, preparations for reception of—
• At Agra, 113–114, 122;
• at Gwalior, 135–136
• Aga Khan, 29
• Agra—
• Journey to, from Jaipur, 112;
• arrival—the hotel, 112–113;
• Pearl mosque, 113;
• drive to the Fort—Akbar’s great gate, 113–114;
• the Taj Mahal, 114–118—
• its garden, 118–119;
• the Jama Musjid mosque, 119–120, 123;
• drive to the mausoleum of Itmad-ud-Daulat, 120;
• churches, 121;
• bazaars, 122;
• excursion to Sikandra—tomb of Akbar, 122–125;
• otherwise mentioned, 97, 144, 145
• Ahmed Khan, 50, 51, 151
• Ahmedabad—
• Journey to, from Bombay, 48–49;
• drive through the city, 49 et seq.;
• mosques, 49–53;
• cotton factories, 55;
• bazaar and street life, 55–58;
• native pottery, 58;
• railway station, 62
• Ajmir—
• Journey to, from Ahmedabad, 62–63;
• Akbar Fort, 64–65;
• bazaars, 65–66, 70;
• the Dargah, 66–68;
• fort of Targarh, 67;
• mosque of Arhai-din-ka-Jhonpra, 68;
• Daulat Bagh, 68–69;
• cantonments outside the native city, 69–70;
• custom of nailing horse-shoes on the doors, 80
• Akbar, Emperor, 64, 131, 155, 177;
• tomb of, at Sikandra, 156
• Alviella, Count Goblet d’, 41
• Alcott, Colonel, 212, 247, 249
• Alexandra, Queen, 13, 261
• Altamash, 68
• Altamsh, 157
• Alu-ud-din, 80
• Amber, deserted city and palace, 106–7
• American tourists, 76, 84, 96–97, 134
• Ammayanayakanur, 276
• Amritzar—
• Journey to, from Delhi, 161–162;
• hotel touts, 162–163;
• the hotel, 163–164;
• drive through the—its open drains, 164;
• the Golden Temple, 165–166;
• carpet manufactory, 166–167;
• interview with a native pedlar, 167–169;
• the Atal tower, 169;
• public gardens, 169;
• departure for Lahore, 170
• Anderson, Colonel, 185
• Arab dhow, 15
• Arabian coast, 12, 314
• Arhai-din-ka-Jhonpra, mosque of, 68
• Arjamand Bann, 117
• Arnold, Sir Edwin, 118
• Baker, Sir Samuel, 33
• Bandakin, 112
• Bapatia, 245
• Bareilly, 45
• Barielly, 184
• Bearer, native, engagement of, 30–33
• Bedding, need for travellers to supply their own, 35, 77
• Begara, 59, 60
• Benares—
• Arrival at—Clark’s Hotel, 200, 216–217;
• first impressions, 201;
• the Guest house, 201–202, 205–206;
• expedition to see the Buddhist remains at Sarnath, 201–205;
• viewing the Ghats from the Maharajah’s peacock boat, 206–211;
• the Burning Ghat, 209–210;
• the Manikaranika Ghat and the Nepal Temple, 215–216;
• pilgrims, 210;
• the Golden Temple, 211;
• Hindu College, 212;
• the Monkey Temple, 212;
• visit to the Maharajah in his palace, 213–215;
• farewell glimpse of, 218
• Bengal-Nagpur Railway, 241
• Berhampore, 244
• Besant, Mrs Annie, 212;
• visit to, at Madras, 247–249
• Bhutian peasants, 225–226, 235
• Birdwood, Sir George, 29
• Bitragunta, 245
• Blavatsky, Madame, 249
• Blow, Mr Detmar, 182
• Bois, Mr, 290, 295
• Bombay—
• Impressions of, from the sea, 21;
• the landing at, 21–23;
• Malabar Hill, 21, 29–30;
• street scenes, 24–25;
• modern British buildings, 25–26;
• Crawford market, 26;
• bazaar, 26–28;
• native wedding processions, 27–28;
• Victoria Gardens, 28–29;
• Victoria and Albert Museum, 29;
• engagement of a native servant, 30–33;
• oppressive heat, 46;
• welcome of M. Dadabhai Naoroji to, 46–47;
• cotton factories, 55
• Bonifazio, straits of, 4, 317
• Brahmans, 242
• British administration, benefits of, discussed—causes of unrest, 141–143, 190–192, 199, 309–310
• “Brothers, The,” lightship, 11, 315
• Brown, Mr Percy, 179
• Buddhism—
• In Ceylon, 297;
• remains of, at Sarnath, 201, 203–205—the Great Tope, 205;
• Temple of the Tooth, 302
• Buffalo cow, 36
• Burmese people, discontent of, under British rule, 199
• Cactus plant, 75
• Caine, Mr W. S., cited, 55, 109, 118, 131, 151
• Calabrian coast, 4
• Calcutta—
• Races at, 29;
• National Congress at, 46;
• journey to, from Benares, 218–219;
• impressions, 219;
• the Minto Fête, 219–220;
• a Hindu soothsayer at, 220–221;
• industrial exhibition, 221–222;
• general impressions, 222;
• otherwise mentioned, 198
• Campbell, Colin, 189
• Candia, 5
• Caroline, Queen, 202
• Carpet manufactory at Amritzar, 166–167
• Carts, native, 22–23, 55, 104–105
• Cashmere travelling merchants, 181
• Ceylon—
• Notes of, 290 et seq.;
• decorative art of, 312;
• native costumes in, 292–293, 298;
• religion of, 297;
• rubber trade in, 308–310;
• tea-plantations of, 302–303, 305;
• vegetation, luxuriant, and scenery, 299–301, 304–307, 310–311;
• Western civilisation—its questionable benefits, 297, 301, 308–310
• Ceylon Times, The, interview with editor of, 309–310
• Charybdis, 4
• Chitor, city of, 77–79
• Chitorgarh—
• Journey to, from Ajmir, 74–75;
• night spent at, 75–77;
• visit to the ruined fortress, 77, 79–81;
• Tower of Victory, 81;
• otherwise mentioned, 95, 108
• Cinnamon tree, 300
• Clan Campbell, s.s., 9
• Clock towers, modern, in India, 194
• Colombo—
• Arrival at, 290–291;
• general description of, 291–299;
• garden of palms, 311;
• museum, 311–313
• Coromandel Coast, native costumes on, 242
• Corsica, 4
• Costumes, native, 56, 72;
• in Southern India, 241–242, 252–253
• Cotton factories, 55
• Cotton yarn, preparation of, for hand weaving, 81
• Cranes, white, 54
• Crete, 5
• Crows, Indian, 23
• Cultivated Crops, 75
• Cunningham, General, 205
• Curzon, Lord, 119, 120, 122, 150
• Cuttack, 241
• Dacoits, 198–199
• Daulatabad, 34, 36–37, 44–45
• Dargah of Ajmir, 66–68
• Darjeeling—
• Journey to, from Calcutta, 223–226;
• toy railway, 224–225;
• general description, 226–227;
• Woodlands’ hotel and its entertainments—the Tibetan masque, 227–232;
• the town, 233–234;
• walks and rides round, 235
• Dauvergne, M., 33, 44, 45
• Delhi—
• Journey to, from Agra, 146–147;
• arrival—British residential quarter—Kashmir Gate, 148–149;
• Mutiny memorial, 149;
• the palace—peacock throne, etc., 149–151;
• Moti Musjid (Pearl mosque), 151;
• Jama Musjid mosque, 151–152;
• Jain temple, 152;
• the Chandni Chouk, 152–154;
• excursion to the Kutab Minar, 154–158;
• mosque of Shin Shah, 155;
• Old Delhi, 155;
• ancient city of Indrapat, 155;
• tomb of Humayun, 155–156;
• cemetery of Nizam-ud-din, 156–157;
• driving experiences, 159–160;
• departure, 161;
• otherwise mentioned, 99
• Delwara, 62
• Digby, Mr William, 141, 191
• Dindigul, 276
• Dinghra, Dr, 166
• Dowden, Mrs, 189, 194
• Driving in India, risks of, 159
• Dutt, Mr Romesh, 1
• Dyeing, native methods of, 57, 104
• East India Company, 131
• Eastern life, influence of Western ideas on, 56, 94, 141–143, 190–192, 199, 309–310
• Edward VII., 47, 261
• Egyptian religion, parallelism between the Hindu religion and, 258
• Elephants—
• Excursions on, 77–78, 82, 107;
• bathing of, at Kandy, 302
• Ellora, caves of—
• Journey to, from Bombay, 33–38—and back again, 44–46;
• temple of Kylas, 38–43;
• Buddhist temples, 43;
• village of Ellora, 44
• Enamel, Champlévé, 179–180
• Etna, Mount, 4
• Everest, Mount, 235
• Famines, native, 141
• Flaxman, 259
• Flying fish, 15–16
• Food at refreshment stations, unsatisfactoriness of, 254
• “Forest flame,” 224
• French tourists, 96
• Fruit-bats, 61
• Funeral, native, 93–94
• Ganesha, the elephant god, 41, 81, 256
• Ganges, scenes at the Ghats at Benares, 206–211;
• the Burning Ghat, 209–210
• Gardens, Eastern type of, 100–101
• Girgenti, 40
• Glass, convex-mirror-mosaic work, 87, 177
• Gohad, Rana of, 131
• Grace, A. F., 132
• Graham, Cunninghame, 248
• Gramophones in India, 99
• Green ray, phenomenon of, 16
• Gunj Baksh, mosque and tomb of, 59–60
• Gwalior—
• Arrival at—the Guest house, 127–128, 134, 136–137;
• tomb of Mohammed Ghaus, 128;
• drive to the Fort, 128–132;
• palace of the Man Mandir, 129, 138;
• Jain Temples, 130;
• new town (Lashkar), 131, 134–135;
• visit to Maharajah’s palace, 132–133;
• sunsets over the Rock, 137–138;
• description of the old town, 138–140;
• departure—scene at the railway station, 144
• Hail and thunder storms combined, 237
• Hardy, Miss, 1
• Harrison, T. Erat, 194
• Hathi Sing, shrine of, 58
• Herefordshire, s.s., 9
• Himalayas—
• Climbing in the, 227–229;
• snow peaks of, 232–233, 237
• Hindu and Tamil MSS., library of, 260
• Hindus—
• Educated, debarred from high administrative posts, 142
• Religion of—nature worship in, 41, 279–280;
• parallelism between the Egyptian religion and, 258
• Temples of—at Madura, 277–283;
• at Seringham, 272–275;
• at Tanjore, 255
• Weddings of, 27–28
• Women, 33, 45, 104, 174
• Hiroshigi, 20
• Horton, Lady, 301
• Hotel life, picturesque feature of, 84–85
• Humayun, Tomb of, 155
• Hunt, Holman, 249
• Hunt, Mr Cyril Holman, 298, 311
• Hunter, Capt. J. B. Dalzell, 240
• Hunuman, Hindu god, 41
• Hunuman, the monkey god, temple of, at Benares, 212
• Hyndman, Mr H. M., 142
• India Office, policy of, 141–143, 190–192, 199, 309–310
• Indian Ocean, incidents on voyage in, 17
• Iqd-i-gul, or The Rose Necklace, 240–241
• Irrigation wells, 170–171, 196;
• of Southern India, 243–244
• Ismailia, 9
• Israelites, passage of, through the Red Sea, 11
• Ivory carver’s workshop at Delhi, 153–154
• Jack fruit, 300–301
• Jagmandir, palace of, 88–91
• Jahanara Begum, 156
• Jahangir, 89
• Jain pontiffs, sandstone carvings of, 131
• Jain sect, persecution of, 279
• Jain temples at—Ajmir, 68;
• Chitorgarh, 81;
• Delhi, 152;
• Gwalior, 130;
• Udaipur, 86–87
• Jaipur—
• Journey to, from Ajmir, 97;
• first impressions, 97–99;
• the city, “the rose-coloured city,” 99–100, 116;
• bazaars, 101–102, 104–105, 110;
• enamelled jewellery of, 101, 102;
• spherical rolling lamps of, 102;
• the Maharajah’s state elephant, 102–103;
• the Maharajah’s palace, 103–104, 118;
• street scenes, 105–106;
• the Maharajah’s horses, 110–111
• Jehan, Shah, 69, 89, 113, 114, 119, 150
• Jhansi, 145
• Jijibhai, Sir Jamsetji, 29
• Jopling-Rowe, Mrs, 196
• Jubbelteer, Island of, 12
• Jugglers, native—the mango-tree trick, 187–188
• Juggernath—
• Temple of, 86–87;
• festival of the Krishna at, 241
• Juggernaut, pilgrims from, 242
• Jullumpore, 161
• Kali, goddess, 109
• Kandy, visit to—its scenery and foliage, 299–302
• Khusru, 156
• Kinchin Junga, view of, 227, 232–233, 237
• Kipling, Mr, 177, 179
• Kites, Indian, 23–24, 110
• Koh-i-noor diamond, the, 125
• Krishna, festival of, 241
• Kunja Sahib, shrine of, 66
• Kutab Minar, 157–158
• Kutab-ud-din, 157
• La Nera, s.s., 2
• Lahore—
• Journey to, from Amritzar, 170–171;
• the Charing Cross hotel, 171;
• British residential and business quarter, 171–173, 178–179;
• native quarter, 173–175;
• bazaars, 175–176;
• the Fort, 176–177;
• the Samadh, 178;
• Jama Musjid, 178;
• Wazar Khan tiled mosque, 178, 181;
• Courts of Justice, 179;
• Museum, 179–180;
• street scenes in, 181;
• visit from the Princess Duleep Singh, 182;
• departure for Lucknow, 182–183
• Lamps, spherical rolling, 102, 222
• Lashkar, 131, 134–135
• Laurence, Lord, statue of, 179
• Laurence, Sir Henry, 192
• Leaf insects, 311–312
• Lèsseps, M. de, 317
• “Light of the World, The,” 249
• Lipari Islands, 317
• Longden, Lady, 301
• Lucknow—
• Journey to, from Lahore, 183–184;
• Wurtzler’s hotel, 185;
• in hospital, 185–186;
• native jugglers—the mango-tree trick, 187–188;
• ruins of the Residency, 189–190, 192;
• the Sikander Bagh, 189–190;
• Chatter Manzel, 192;
• architecture of, 192–193;
• Jama Musjid, 193;
• the Iambara, 193–195;
• bazaar of the old city, 194–195;
• through the bazaar on elephants, 196–197;
• the Martinière, 197–198
• Lyons, 198
• Macarthy, Lady, 301
• Madura—
• Scenery near, 276;
• visit to the Great Temple, 276–283;
• the Temple Courts, 283;
• Teppa Tank, 284;
• gigantic Banyan tree, 284;
• palace of Tiramala, 284–285;
• silk industry, 285–286;
• table decorations at, 286
• Madras—
• Journey to, from Calcutta, 239–245;
• arrival—the Castle Hotel, 245–246;
• public buildings and street scenes, 246–247, 249–251;
• temperature at, 247;
• visit to the Adyar library, 247–249;
• Toddy Tappus, 249;
• jin-rickshaws, 249–250;
• Botanic Gardens, 251
• Mahmudshah, 59
• Malabar Hill, 21, 29–30
• Mandal, 75
• Maratha chiefs, 151
• Marble—
• Piercing patterns in, 64–65;
• suitability of Indian climate for preserving, 69
• Marseilles, 2, 317
• Martin, General or Captain—
• Painting of, 193;
• schools founded by, 197–198
• Mayo, Lord, 100
• Mecca, sign of having visited, on house walls, 8
• Messina, 4
• Migration of Symbols (d’Alviella), cited, 41–42
• Mirza Jahangir, tomb of, 156
• Missionaries, indifference of, to native religions, 275, 297
• Mocha, 12, 314
• Mogul Emperors, private chapel of, 113
• Mogul Serai, 218
• Mohammedans—
• Educated, debarred from high administrative posts, 142;
• Tombs of, 8, 59–60;
• Weddings among the, 27;
• Women, 104, 174–175
• Mongolian peasants, 225–226
• Monkeys, silver grey, 53, 59
• Moonsawmy, 33, 125–126, 183
• Mori, 63
• Morley, Mr John, 142
• Moses, well of, 11
• Moti Musjid, 113
• Mulich, Dr, 1
• Munmad, a night at, 34–36, 45
• Muslin, native method of printing on, 70
• Mussulman mosque of Arhai-din-ka-Jhonpra, 68
• Mutiny, memorials of, 189–190;
• provocative causes of, 190
• Nadir Shah, 151
• Naoroji, M. Dadabhi, welcome of, to Bombay, 46–47
• Naisirabad, 74
• Nelson, Lord, bust of, 260
• Nemnath, Jain pontiff, 131
• Nizam of Hyderabad, 36, 38
• Nizam-ud-din, cemetery of, 156–157
• Nunnoya, 303, 310
• Nuwara-Eliya, 302;
• scenery at, 304–305;
• the Magdala Gardens, 305–307
• Parsees—
• Burial place of, 30;
• Merchant, description of, 24;
• Weddings among, 28
• Parvati, goddess, 41, 109, 256
• Paul, Lieutenant, 198
• Perrim, 12, 314
• Picturesque India (W. S. Caine), quoted, 151
• Pillai, Mr, 277–278
• Pillour, 161
• Plague, bubonic, 141
• Ploughs, native, 74–75, 140
• Ploughman, native, earnings of, 140
• Poori, 241
• Port Said, 316
• Poverty of natives, 140–141, 143
• Prang, Mr Louis, and Mrs Prang, 235–236
• Prosperous British India (Digby), cited, 141, 191
• Rai, Mr Laipat, 142
• Railway travelling in India—
• Facilities for, 48–49;
• native travellers, 70–72
• Rajpootana, 63, 77, 79
• Ramayana, 1
• Rani Sipri, mosque of, 51
• Readymoney, Sir Cowasji Jehangir, 29
• Red Sea, passage of, 11–12, 314
• Rena, s.s., 10
• Rhododendron, Cingalese, 306
• Rozah—
• Drive to, from Daulatabad, 36–37;
• description of a night at, 37–38
• Rubber trade of Ceylon, 308–310
• Russia, Czar of, 206, 282
• Ryot, Indian, average earnings of, 141
• Said, Port, visit to, 5–9
• Salaams, custom as to, 73
• Sara, crossing the Ganges at, 223–224, 237
• Sarbarmati River, scenes on, 53–54, 58–59
• Sardinia, 4
• Sarkhai, excursion to, 58–61
• Saunders, Mr and Mrs, 197
• Scott, Mr Ross, 188, 198
• Schwartz, 259
• Scylla, 4
• Seringham—
• Religious procession at, 282;
• Temple of, 272–275
• Shaw, G. Bernard, 248
• Sheep, fat-tailed, 176
• Sicily, 4, 317
• Sidi Sayyids’ Mosque, 51–52
• Sikandra, excursion to—tomb of Akbar, 122–125
• Sikhs, religious centre of, 166
• Silignis, 225–226
• Silk-weaving at—
• Ahmedabad, 55, 56;
• Vizianagram, 244;
• Tanjore, 262;
• Madura, 285–286
• Silver Lake, 242
• Sinai, Mount, 11
• Sindhia, 131
• Singh, Princess Duleep, 181–182
• Siva, god—
• Representations of, at Madura, 278, 279, 280, 281, 283;
• sacred bull of, 255–256;
• sacred mark of, 242, 253;
• otherwise mentioned, 41, 109, 256
• Sketching, native interest in, 283–284
• Sorabji, Miss, 220
• Soumalis at Aden, 13–15
• South Kensington, Indian museum at, 52
• Spartivento, Cape, 4
• Squirrels, palm, 36, 59, 136
• Stromboli, 317
• Suez, call at, 10, 315
• Suez Canal, passage through 9–10, 315–316
• Sun, eclipse of, 167
• Table decorations of Southern India, 286
• Taj Mahal—
• Visit to, and account of, 114–118;
• gardens of, 118–119;
• compared with the Itmad-ud-Daulat, 120;
• moonlight visit to, 120–121;
• sketches of, 121
• Tamils, 297
• Tanjore—
• Journey to, from Madras, 251–254;
• accommodation at, 254–255, 269;
• the old fort and Hindu Temple, 255–258;
• religious procession at, 258;
• Christian church at, 258–259;
• palace of the Maharajah, 259–261;
• description of—street scenes, etc., 261–264;
• decline of Western influence at, 263;
• native theatre, 264–268;
• native pedlars—Tanjore craftsmanship, 268–269;
• water carrying, 270
• Taormina, 4
• Taragarh, Fort of, 67
• Tea, Ceylon, colour of beverage, 305
• Tea plantations of Ceylon, 302–305
• Theatre, native, at Tanjore, 264–268
• Theosophical Society, headquarters, 247
• Threshing of grain, native methods, 252
• Thull Ghat, 34
• Tibetan fat-tailed sheep, 176
• Tibetan masque at Darjeeling, 229–232
• Tiled mosques, 178
• Tourane, s.s., 313
• Trinchinopoly—
• Arrival at—general impressions, 270–272, 275;
• visit to the temple of Seringham, 272–275;
• the Rock of Trinchinopoly, 275
• Tuticorin, 287–289
• “Twelve Apostles, The,” 12
• Udaipur—
• Native group from, 76;
• journey to, from Chitorgarh, 82–83;
• hotel experiences, 83–84;
• place of tombs, 85–86;
• palace of the Maharajah, 87–88;
• excursion to the palace of Jagmandin, 88–91;
• feeding of the Maharajah’s wild pigs, 91–92;
• the Maharajah’s gardens, 93;
• Victoria Institute, 93;
• departure from—the station, 94–95
• Umballa, 161, 183
• Villuparam, 254
• Vishnu, 86, 272, 273
• Vizianagram, 244
• Voyages out and home, descriptions of, 1–20, 313–317
• Wales, Prince and Princess, 167, 206, 282
• Waltair, 244
• Water filter and water bearers at railway stations, 75
• Watts, G. F., 76
• Wax, raised designs of, on textiles, 179
• Webb, Sidney, 248
• Wedding processions in Bombay, 27–28
• Western civilisation, questionable value of, 94, 308–310
• Women, native, costumes of, 105, 174–175
• Zebu bulls, 256, 280