Indoor and Outdoor Recreations for Girls

Take your small rope and nail one end of it to the edge of the bottom, close to one end of one of the barrel-hoops (Fig. 80), then wrap the hoop with the rope, one row close to another until it is completely covered. Cut off the rope when it reaches the end of the hoop and nail it down as you did the first end of the rope in beginning. Fasten a piece of the heavy rope entirely around the edge of the board, nailing it at intervals along each side, but leaving loose that at the end edges until later. Make the

Eight inches from the end of the bottom, underneath but near the side edge, nail one end of your heavy rope; bring it up slantingly and wrap and tie it to the hoop just above and touching the top edge of the loops, stretch the rope tightly across the hoop and tie at the other side, then carry the end down and fasten underneath the bottom eight inches from the end of the board (see illustration). Wrap and tie the top loops of the end piece to the top rope as shown in illustration. Finish the other end of the basket in the same manner, not forgetting to nail in place the rope left loose at the end edges. Give the completed wood-basket several coats of dark varnish. The varnish not only produces a nice finish, smoothing down both wood and rope, but also stiffens and helps to hold the rope in place.

This netting may be made of heavy rope for a grille in an open doorway, or of lighter rope for fringe. In either case the method is the same.

In a board, at regular distances apart, along a straight line, drive a row of wire nails. It depends upon the size of the rope how far apart the nails should be placed. For a heavy rope there must be at least four inches between, and this distance should lessen as the rope decreases in size.

Cut your rope into pieces four feet in length if it is heavy, not so long if it is light rope. Loop one piece of rope over each nail and let it hang down evenly, then bring the first and fourth strands together and slip on them a small brass curtain or embroidery ring (Letter A, Fig. 83). Push the ring up to within four inches of the line of nails if the nails are four inches apart. If the distance between the nails is three inches the ring must be three inches below the line. Catch the ring to each strand of rope with needle and thread to hold it in place. Bring the third and sixth strands together and slip on a ring (Letter B, Fig. 83). Then the fifth and seventh, and so across the board.

Begin the next row by slipping a ring on the first and second strands, placing it the same distance below the first row of rings that the first row of rings is below the line of nails (Letter C, Fig. 83). Bring the third and fourth strands together with a ring, the fifth and sixth, continuing the original pairing of the strands until the row is complete. The third row of rings brings together again the second and fourth strands, the third and sixth, as in the first row, and the fourth row of rings goes back to pairing the first and second, third and fourth strands.

Below the last row of rings wrap and tie the strands together, then untwist the ends of the rope up to where it is tied and fray it out until it becomes fluffy. Make the head of the tassel by wrapping closely with twine a short distance below the ring, or you may slip on several of the brass rings as a finish.

The board on which you make your netting need not be any longer than is convenient to handle, for when one part of the netting is finished it can be taken off the nails and new strands added to carry on the work.

Fig. 84 is an ornamental design suitable for decorating a wooden chest or, if sewed on cloth, for a hanging. By studying the design you can easily reproduce it without the aid of description or other diagram.

CHAPTER VIII

A basket measuring about six inches in diameter and three inches in height is a convenient size on which to learn.

Wipe the dripping water from the splint, and cut off six pieces nineteen inches long; then cut these into sixteen strips one-half inch wide, for the spokes of the basket. Do not attempt to tear the splint, for it will not tear evenly. From the other piece of splint cut four strips for weavers, making the first one-half of an inch wide, the next one-fourth of an inch wide, another one-eighth of an inch wide, and the last one-sixteenth of an inch wide. Place all the weavers in the water and leave them until you are ready to begin weaving.

For instance, the ninth spoke should come between No. 1 and No. 5, the tenth spoke between No. 5 and No. 3, the eleventh spoke between No. 3 and No. 6, and so on around the circle (Fig. 87). Be sure the lower end of a spoke fits between the same numbers as the upper end. When all the spokes are placed hammer a strong pin directly through the centre where they are crossed, to hold them together while you begin.

With the spokes lying in the position shown in diagram (Fig. 87), take the eighth-inch weaver, and begin to weave it in and out of the spokes. Start it under spoke No. 1 about two and one-half inches from the centre, bring it over No. 9, under No. 5, over No. 10, under No. 3, over, under, over, under, until it has crossed spoke No. 16; then skip No. 1, bring the weaver under No. 9, and weave another row. You will find it necessary to skip one spoke at the beginning of each row, in order to make a continuous under-and-over weave. Weave five rows with the eighth-inch weaver, then slide the end under the last row, lapping it an inch or so and running it under several spokes, to hide the joint. Slip the first end under a spoke also. During this part of the work your main endeavor must be to weave in a perfect circle. The illustration shows the bottom of the basket completed.

Before bending the spokes for the sides of the basket, let them soak in the water a few minutes, then place the work on the lap-board, the same side up as when started, and carefully bend the spokes up at right-angles with the bottom (Fig. 88). Start a half-inch weaver inside the basket, close to the bottom, and weave under and over until the row is complete; then, allowing for a lap of about three inches, cut the weaver off and slide the end under the first end of the weaver, making the invisible joint by tucking each end under a spoke. Start the next row a little beyond the joint of the first row, that the joining may not all come in one place. Weave five rows of the half-inch weaver, then two rows of the fourth-inch weaver and then bind off (Fig. 89).

Cut the spokes off evenly, leaving about two inches extending above the top of the basket, then put the basket in the water, spokes down, and soak until pliable. Bend each spoke down snugly over the top weaver, and slip the end through the next weaver, pushing it down until its end is hidden under one of the weavers. Bend one spoke inside, the next outside the basket, according as they come inside or outside of the top weaver (Fig. 89).

This binding off holds the top weaver in place and makes the basket very firm; but the spokes must be protected from wear where they are bent, and it is necessary to put a double band around the edge. For this band cut two pieces of the fourth-inch weaver which will go around the basket and lap about an inch. Place one piece along the inside edge, the other along the outside edge of the basket, and with the sixteenth-inch weaver bind them to the top weaver, as shown in Diagram 90. Fasten the end by taking several cross-stitches with the narrow weaver, passing it under the inside band only, and tucking the end under the same band.

Many splint baskets are trimmed with twisted loops of the same material. For this trimming take one of the half-inch weavers and cut a thread's width off its edge, making it just a trifle narrower than the other weaver. Insert the end of this weaver under a spoke at the top of the basket (letter A, Diagram 91), give a twist to the left, and pass it beneath the next spoke, as shown in Diagram 91, letter B. Pull the loop down and flatten it a little with your thumb, then twist the weaver again, this time to the right, and slip the end under the next spoke, letter C. Continue this around the basket, and make the joint of the trimming as you did the other joints, by lapping the ends and slipping them under the spokes, which makes the last loop of double thickness.

The small basket shown in the illustration has two rows of trimming, and between them is run a weaver of another color pulled out into loops at the sides.

The illustration on the first page of this chapter shows a large basket with four rows of trimming and handles. The handles are made of the fourth-inch weaver, which is brought around twice, making a ring of double thickness. The ring is then wrapped with the eighth-inch weaver, and fastened to the basket with loops of the same. The weaving of this large basket differs from the smaller one, in that the weaver is not cut at the end of each row, but is continued around row after row. For a large basket the half-inch weaver can be used in this way, but in a small basket the slant of the weaver as it runs around is too apparent. If a long weaver is used in a small basket it must not be more than one-eighth of an inch in width.

While baskets of the natural white splint are extremely dainty, color certainly gives variety and adds interest to the work, and the splints will take dye readily. You might also line your basket with silk of a color to harmonize with the splint.

The white-ash splint one and one-half inches wide comes in rolls of twenty-five yards, and a roll will make several medium-sized baskets. The material may be obtained of almost any kindergarten supply firm.

CHAPTER IX

You must select paper of the necessary color, and fold, roll, fold, squeeze, fold, tie, with here a little pull and there a little pat, a spreading out, a pinching in; that is all. There is no sewing, no pasting, no pinning, merely modelling and tying, using only tissue-paper and string.

These animals are very substantial and unique. They are not at all thin or flat, but well rounded out and lifelike, with character and independence enough to stand alone—just the kind your little brother and sister will be delighted with, for they may play with the toys free from all danger of hurts or bruises. To

Roll a separate piece of paper into a little wad and lay it on the creased strip (Fig. 93) about one-fourth of the distance from one end. Bend the short end of the strip over the wad of paper, as in Fig. 94; then fold up the strip where the end of the short fold lies, bend this over the first fold (Fig. 95) and bring the loose end on the bottom of the three layers. Fig. 96 shows a wad of paper inserted at one end of a strip of creased paper folded over and over three times, making four layers, two on top and two on the bottom of the paper wad. Wind a string around the paper tight up to the wad and tie it securely to form the head (Fig. 97). You now have the body and head of the chicken. Make the legs and feet of a strip of paper about sixteen inches long and seven and one-half wide. Gather up the two long sides with your fingers as you did the paper in Fig. 93; crease the paper, then wind each leg with string, leaving one inch free at each end to form the feet (Fig. 98). Lift up the free end of the folded paper (Fig. 97) and place the centre of the legs (Fig. 98) midway under the last fold as in Fig. 99. Tie the end of the loose layer of the body securely on the body, and you will have the foundation ready for the beak, wings, and tail (Fig. 100).

Cut a square of the same kind of tissue paper, measuring nine and one-half inches on all four sides; fold diagonally twice across the square as when making a paper pin-wheel. The centre of the square is exactly where the diagonal lines meet and cross; pinch the centre portion up into a beak and tie it with a string (Fig. 101); then fit the beak over the centre of the chicken's head, bringing the paper entirely over the head on all sides; tie the square around the chicken's neck close up to the head (Fig. 102). The two points A and B of the square must form the wings, while C is carried backward over the under portion of the body and D back over the upper part, the two ends C and D being brought together and tied tight up to the body to form the tail. In Fig. 103 you will see exactly how to pinch up the wing if you notice particularly the upper part of the wing B, next to the body. The wing A on Fig. 103 shows how the two wings must be tied close to, but not on, the body. When each wing is tied, make the tail of C and D by tying the extensions together as explained above; that done, bend down the legs, spread out the wings and tail, open out and flatten the feet, then stand the little chicken on a level surface (Fig. 104). Remember always to crease the tissue-paper with the grain of the paper; if you attempt to cross the grain the paper will be very apt to tear.

(Fig. 105) is also modelled from half a sheet of tissue-paper as near the general color of a turkey as can be found. Make Fig. 92 and Fig. 93 of the paper; then fold Fig. 93 five and three-quarter inches from one end (Fig. 106, F). Three inches from this end tie the two layers together (Fig. 106, G). Fold the strips back and tie a string through the lower loop up over the loose top layer (Fig. 106, H). Wind the extreme end of the paper (Fig. 106, O), with string to form the beak (Fig. 107), bend the beak down and tie it to the neck to form the top of the head (Fig. 108, P). Make the legs and feet as you did those for the chicken (Fig. 98) and slide them through the body so that one fold of the body will be above and two beneath the legs (Fig. 107). Cut the wings from a separate piece of tissue-paper (Fig. 109). Let the paper measure seven inches on the widest side, five on the opposite side, and four and one-half on each of the other sides. Pinch the paper together through the centre and tie (Fig. 110). Gather up one wing, so that it will not tear, and slip it through the body, immediately over the legs, with the widest side toward the front (Fig. 105), leaving the other wing out free on the other side of the turkey. Bend down the legs, spread the tail out fan shape and bend it up; open out the wings and drop them downward and forward (Fig. 105). Flatten out the feet and stand up the turkey (Fig. 105).

(Fig. 111) will require two sheets of brown tissue-paper for its body, head, and trunk, which are all made of a single strip of paper. Unfold, spread out and fit the two sheets of tissue-paper together; then gather up one side, as in Fig. 92, crease and gather up the other side (Fig. 93). Bind one end with black thread to the distance of four and one-half inches to form the trunk; then fold the remainder of the strip into four layers, beginning with the free end of the paper; fold over and over three times. This gives the body and head. Bind black thread around the folds next to the trunk to form the head. Make four legs of two pieces of paper in the same way you formed those of the chicken (Fig. 98), only the elephant's legs must be very much thicker. Slide the legs through the body between the two layers of paper, shove the front legs forward and the hind legs backward. For the tail use a small strip of the brown tissue-paper. Wrap it around and around with black thread to within an inch of the bottom and cut this end up into fringe. Fasten the tail on the elephant with black thread, pass the thread between the first and second layers of paper forming the back of the body of the animal and tie the tail on the outside threads which cross from side to side of the elephant; bend the top of the tail over the thread, as you would hang a garment on a clothes-line, and tie the bent-over end down on to the tail proper. Shape the ears like Fig. 112, pinch together the end S and tuck it under the thread which separates the head from the body. Allow the long side, M, to form the front of the ears. You can add white ivory tusks if desired. Roll up two white writing-paper lighters and push an end of each up in the head under the trunk, forming one tusk on each side.

In making these little creatures do not forget that you must do some modelling, bending and shaping them with your fingers, squeezing up the paper where it stands out too far, and gently pulling it out in places where it flattens too much. The heads can be turned to suit the fancy, the bodies inclined this or that way, or they may stand stiff and erect. You might model a number of chickens, of different-colored paper, some yellow, some white, and others black, like real chickens; or make several turkeys and two or three elephants, some of the latter with tusks and others without. The toys when finished will cause exclamations of delight and approval. They are simple and easy to put together, something which will not cost much and yet be worth many times the amount expended for the necessary material to manufacture. The little animals are attractive, substantial toys, entirely different from the common ones which any girl or boy with sufficient pocket money may purchase.

CHAPTER X

There are no patterns, only circles and squares and strips of paper which you gather here, spread out there, wrap and tie some place else and, with deft fingers, model into almost exact reproductions of the natural flower before you.

With its unfamiliar terms to be committed to memory and the many parts of the flower to be distinguished, botany is apt to prove dry and tiresome to the little child, but to study nature by copying the flowers in this marvellously adaptable material is only a beautiful game which every child, and indeed many grown people, will delight in. The form of the flower, its name and color, may, by this means, be indelibly stamped upon the memory, and a good foundation laid for further study.

Ordinary garden flowers and those most easily procured make the best models. The carnation-pink, the morning-glory, and the rarer blossoms of the hibiscus, are well adapted to the work, also the daffodil and some of the wonderful orchids.

Even holly with its sharp-spiked leaves and scarlet berries and the white-berried, pale-green mistletoe may be closely copied. All these and many more are made on the same principle and in so simple a manner even quite a little child may succeed in producing very good copies from Nature.

Buy a sheet of light pink tissue-paper, another of darker pink, and one of the darkest red you can find. Then a sheet of light yellow-green and one of dark green. Have a table "cleared for action" and place your paper on the right-hand side, adding a pair of scissors and a spool of coarse thread, or, better still, of soft darning-cotton.

With all this you are to copy the

Lay your natural flower down on the left-hand side of the table, away from your material but quite within easy reach, for it must be consulted frequently. Seat yourself comfortably and don't work hurriedly.

The first thing necessary in this system of squares and circles is to know

Cut a square the size you wish to make your circle. That is, if you want a circle with a diameter of four inches cut a four-inch square (Fig. 113). Fold the square diagonally through the centre according to the dotted line on Fig. 113, and you have the triangle (Fig. 114). Fold this at the dotted line and it will make another triangle (Fig. 115). Again fold through the middle and you have the third triangle (Fig. 116). Fold once more and Fig. 117 is the result. Measure the distance from the edge, B, to the centre A in Fig. 117 and mark the same distance on the other side of the angle shown by the dot, C (Fig. 117). With your scissors cut across from C to B, curving the edge slightly, as shown by the dotted line from C to B (Fig. 118). Fig. 119 is the circle still in its folds. Fig. 120 is the circle opened, the dotted lines indicating where it has been folded.

Your eye will soon become sufficiently accurate to enable you to gauge the distance from A to B, and you can then cut from C to B without measuring.

Now hold the pink off at arm's length. The separateness of the petals disappears and you see them only as a mass; the points on the edges are not noticeable except as they give the flower a crimped appearance, and the edge of the calyx looks almost straight. It is this last appearance or the impression of the flower that you are to produce rather than its many and separate little parts. So now to work.