Indoor and Outdoor Recreations for Girls

Fig. 32.—Tie loops together.

Making a sash-curtain for her room.

Fig. 33 shows a strong, serviceable little

School-Bag

which is easier to make than the hammock. Take a piece of heavy cord twenty inches long, lap one end to the distance of an inch over the other and sew the two lapped ends firmly together; then bind them neatly around and around with string. Bring the two edges or sides of the circle together, forming two ends (V V, Fig. 34). Tie a strong string on each end (Fig. 34) and fasten each of the strings to the back of a chair; you will then have a circle of heavy cord securely suspended in mid-air. Cut twenty-four lengths of twine, each twenty-five inches long; double each piece and fasten all the strands on the circle of heavy cord in the same way you made the fringe on the hammock (X X, Fig. 34), except that this time the strands must be quite a distance apart. Let all the spaces between the strands be equal. Having fastened the lengths of twine on the circle, net them together exactly as you netted the hammock, but you must depend upon your eye to keep the meshes even and of the same size, as there will be no board with lines to guide you (Fig. 34). Tie the knots in circular rows, going around on both sides of the circle for each row. Continue the meshes until within three and a half inches of the bottom, then tie the two sides together, closing the bottom of the bag and forming the fringe shown in Fig. 33.

Fig. 33—Your school-bag made of string.

Having finished the bag, untie the strings attached to the two ends and make two handles of heavy cord or slender rope. Fasten the handles on their respective sides of the bag. Loop the ends of the handles under the cord forming the top of the bag, and bring each end up against its own side of the handle. Sew each of the two ends of the two handles securely to the handle proper; then bind the sewed portions neatly together with fine cord as in Fig. 33.

Fig. 34—Making the school-bag.

With some firm straws and more string we will make

A Sash-Curtain

for the window of your own room, as the little girl is doing in the illustration. Loop about thirty strands on the same number of tacks, in the manner in which you hung those for the hammock (Fig. 26). Make one row of knots, and before forming the next row slide a piece of straw one inch long over the two strings which are to be knotted together; the ends of the string must be moistened and brought together in a point in order that they may more easily be threaded through the straw. The letter R in Fig. 35 shows the straw with the ends of the string run through it, and U gives a straw higher up on the strings. After each straw is put into place, knot the strings immediately underneath to prevent the straw from sliding out of position.

Fig. 35 shows how to manage the work. It is almost exactly like that of the hammock, the only difference being the threading on of the straws which hold the strings in place without a knot at the top (see W in Fig. 35). Let the bottom of the net end in a fringe. Take the loops off from the tacks when the curtain is finished, and slide them on a straight, slender stick, which you can fasten to the window by resting the ends of the stick through loops of tape tacked on the sides of the window-frame at the right distance up from the ledge of the window.

Fig. 35.—Sliding straws on strings for curtain.

If possible, let all the net-work be made of pliable, soft material; it is easier to handle, and the results are much prettier.

Make the curtains of any color you may fancy.

CHAPTER IV

AN ARMFUL OF SHAVINGS AND WHAT TO DO WITH THEM

DO you love to go into a carpenter-shop, with its sweet-smelling woods and fascinating tangle of white and rose-tinted shavings, and to watch the carpenter guide his plane along the edge of a board, shaving off so evenly and smoothly the long curls which look almost as natural as the ringlets of a little girl? I am sure that many times you have tucked the ends of the shavings under your hat and scampered off with the curls streaming out behind or bobbing up and down delightfully at the sides.

It is great fun, yet there is still more entertainment to be found in these pretty shavings.

Gather an armful, then, choosing the most perfect ones, not too thin, with firm, smooth edges, and you shall weave them into

A Pretty, Soft Little Basket

like the illustration.

The soft little basket made of shavings.

Fig. 36—Directly across the centre draw a straight line.

Fig. 37—So that the upper edge of B will touch the dividing line of A.

Pine-shavings are the best to use, as they are less brittle than those of harder woods. Select a number and put them to soak in cold water to make them soft and pliable. Then, lifting out those of an even width, place them before you on a lap-board or table, and after passing them between your fingers several times to take the curl out, cut eight pieces eleven inches long. Directly across the centre of two of the strips draw a straight line, as in Fig. 36. Place one of these strips, A, flat on the table and lay the other, B, across it so that the upper edge of B will touch the dividing line of A and the mark on B will be on a line with right-hand edge of A, Fig. 37. Under A slide another strip, C, Fig. 38. Over B and under C slide the strip D, Fig. 39. Over D and under A pass the strip E, Fig. 40. Under E, over B and under C weave the strip F, Fig. 41. Under E, over B, and under C weave the strip G, Fig. 42. Over F, under D, over A, and under G weave the strip H, Fig. 43. This forms a square for the bottom of the basket.

Fig. 38.—Under A slide the strip C.

Fig. 39.—Over B and under C slip the strip D.

Fig. 40.—Over D and under A pass E.

Fig. 41.—Under E, over B and under C weave F.

Bend up the ends and

Weave the Sides

with longer, narrower shavings which you can make by cutting lengthwise through the middle of several wide shavings.

Fig. 42.—Under E, over B and under C weave G.

Fig. 43.—This forms the bottom of the basket.

If you find any difficulty in keeping in place the part you have woven, pin it to the board or table with several pins, as in Fig. 44. Bring the sides up close to the edges of the bottom, then start your weaver at D, on the inside of the basket (Fig. 44).

Fig. 44.—Bend up the ends now and weave the sides.

Weave all the way around, turning the corners sharply, until the weaver meets the first end; lap it over this, cut it off and tuck the last end under H. Start the next weaver at C, weave it around and tuck under E. Weave five weavers around the sides of the basket, beginning each time in a new place that the joints may not all come together, then bend the upright shavings over the edge of the top weaver, tucking the ends of each under the third weaver, one inside, the next outside, as they may come inside or outside the basket (Fig. 45).

Fig. 45—Bend the upright shavings over the top edge.

Bind the Edge

with two binders the width of the side weavers. Hold one inside, one outside, and whip them on over and over, taking the stitches with a narrow strip of shaving as shown in Fig. 46.

Fig. 46.—Bind the edge with two binders.

Cut two strips the width of your side weavers for

The Handle,

making one twelve inches and the other eleven inches long. One inch from each end cut notches, as in Fig. 47. Slide the end of the short strip under the second weaver on one side of the basket and pull it up until the points catch on the weaver, then tuck the end under the lower weaver (see illustrations).

Fig. 47.—Notch the ends like this.

Loop the handle diagonally over the basket and fasten the other end on the second weaver on the side. Secure the ends of the long strip on the third weaver, allowing it to cross the other side of the handle at the top, then bind the two pieces together at the middle by wrapping with a shaving of the same width over and over. Split this wrapper at the last end and tuck the two ends in at the sides. Fig. 48 shows the under part of the handle with one end of the wrapper tucked in.

Fig. 48.—Tuck the two ends in at the sides.

You can make table-mats, charming little handkerchief-cases, and a number of other things of the dainty shavings, all on the same principle as that of the basket.

To make

The Handkerchief-Case,

weave a square, measuring eight inches, of the narrow shavings, just as you did for the bottom of the basket. These shavings must be twelve inches long and you will probably need about thirty-two pieces. When the square is finished tuck in the ends, as around the edge of the basket, then bend in three of the corners to meet at the middle and catch with needle and thread. Sew a quarter of a yard of bright ribbon where the corners join and another quarter of a yard on the loose corner. (See illustration.) Put your handkerchiefs in the little pocket, bring up the loose point, and tie the ribbon in a pretty bow.

The handkerchief case.

CHAPTER V

PRIMITIVE REED CURTAINS

THESE pretty rustic hangings can be made very easily and quickly. They are light in weight and the general tone of coloring, when the reeds have been carefully dried at home, is a pleasing soft gray green, with suggestions here and there of gray browns, reds, and yellows. The curtains may be either of these reeds or fresh green cat-tails, and even of the silvered gray stalks left standing from last season. The cost in actual outlay of money for several curtains need be only a few cents for cord, staple-tacks or nails, and screw-eyes, but, like the early savage whose method of work you are imitating, you must collect the

Raw Material

out in the open. So away to the spot where the finest cat-tails grow, gather a lot of them, cutting the stalks off clean and smooth at the base, that the cat-tails may not be bent or split, for as reeds in your curtain they must be as near perfect as possible. Cut the velvety brown head off from each one, making all of the stalks the same in length; then, with several long leaves twisted together for string, tie the stalks into a bundle and march home with the treasure.

Fig. 49.—Beginning a primitive curtain.

Fig. 50.—Centre of twine tied on long stick.

An old bamboo fishing-rod, a length of handle from a long-handled dusting or window brush, or any kind of a long, slender, smooth, round stick will do for the top curtain-pole from which to hang the reeds. Lay the pole across a table in front of and parallel to you; then tie the centres of four pieces of cord of even lengths on it at equal distances from each other (Fig. 49). Detail of the work is given in Fig. 50. Place a cat-tail reed up against the four ties, allowing one string from each tie to come over and the other under the cat-tail (Fig. 51). Cross the two lengths of each cord over the last cat-tail, bringing the lower string up and the upper string down (Fig. 52); then lay another reed up against the crossed strings, carrying the strings in turn over this reed (Fig. 53). Again bring the lower strings up and the upper down before placing in another cat-tail, and always alternate the large and small ends of the reeds as in Fig. 54, in order to have them equally balanced and to avoid bringing all the small ends on one side and the large ones on the other side of the curtain.

Fig. 51.—Allow one string to come over and the other under the cat-tail.

Fig. 52.—Cross the two lengths of twine.

Fig. 53.—Lay another cat-tail up against the crossed strings.

Fig. 54.—Alternate large and small ends of reeds.

Fig. 55—Primitive curtain of reeds and twine stitch.

Fig. 56.—Staple nail in top pole of curtain.

Fig. 57.—Cord fastened on top pole for rolling up curtain.

Continue Crossing the Cord

and adding cat-tails until the curtain is of the desired length. Tie the ends of the string on each line securely together and tuck them under the weave, hiding the ends on the wrong side of the curtain (Fig. 55). At equal short distances from the tips of the head-pole fasten in a screw-eye large enough to pass readily over the two hooks immediately above the window where the curtain is to hang (Fig. 55, A, A). On the centre of the space along the upper side of the top pole, between the first and second cord and the third and fourth cord, drive in a staple-nail (Fig. 49, B, B), shown more plainly in Fig. 56. These staple-nails are for holding in place the long cord used in rolling up the curtain (Fig. 57, B, B, and Fig. 58, B, B). Thread one end of a long piece of cord from the back of the curtain through one staple-nail and the other end through the other staple-nail. Bring both ends of the cord down over the front of the curtain around the bottom and up over the back; then tie the ends on the pole (Fig. 57, C, C). Dotted lines show how the cord runs along the back of the curtain. Have the cord sufficiently long to allow of the stretch between the two staple-nails B and B (Figs. 57 and 58), to hang down over the back and extend in a loop below the bottom edge of the curtain (Fig. 57, D). When you wish to raise the curtain, pull the bottom loop and up will go the curtain (Fig. 58). These primitive hangings are just the thing for outing cottages on the sea-shore or log-houses in the mountains. You can have fun weaving them while at your summer home and in place of the old-fashioned quilting-bee you might give a

Curtain-Bee Frolic.

The girls and boys could readily make a number of hangings in one afternoon, and while weaving the reeds together they would weave into the work all sorts of bright speeches and gay laughter, so that ever after the curtains would be filled with delightful associations of the charming summer afternoon. Reed curtains can be fashioned in any width. If very narrow hangings are in demand, cut your reeds to measure the length needed for the curtain-width and weave them together with the same twine cross-weave used in Fig. 55.

Fig. 58.—Cat-tail curtain raised by loop from bottom.

Fig. 59.—Small end of one cat-tail.

Fig. 60.—Large end of another.

Fig. 61.—Wide curtain, each reed of two cat-tails joined.

Doorway-Screens

hung on a swinging, armlike rod extending, when open, at right angles with the doorway, and easily moved forward or backward, are attractive when of woven reeds, especially if dull, green-colored cord is used in the manufacture in place of ordinary twine. For very wide out-of-door veranda-shades, select the strongest cat-tails and dig out about two inches of pith from the large end of one cat-tail very cautiously to avoid breaking the sides; then push the small end of another cat-tail into the opening (Figs. 59, 60, 61); weave these long pieces together as you wove the single reeds in the first curtain, using extra lines of weave. If you cannot obtain cat-tails, take other reeds; or cut some straight, slender poles from shrubs or trees, and weave them into curtains with colored cord of reds or browns. Such pole-hangings would be excellent for the open front of your mountain shack or lean-to, and they could do service in screening the sunlight, when too strong, from the central open way of your saddle-bag log-house.

Sitting in the orchard

CHAPTER VI

THINGS TO MAKE OF COMMON GRASSES

A Grasshopper-House

MAMMY, make me a grasshopper-house."

"Go 'long, chile, I done got 'nough to do 'thout makin' no hoppergrass-houses."

"Please, mammy, only one, and then I can make them for myself. I'll watch you just as close. Won't you, mammy?"

"Pick me some grasses, then; I 'low I has to, but don't yo' come pesterin' me no more after this time.

"Seed-top grasses, honey, seed-top grasses; don't git me none of them blade kind. Ketch hol' near the top and pull 'em up slow like, then they'll come out nice and smooth, an' leave they ole rough skins behind, just like a eel does when you skins him. That's it, you got 'nough now; bring 'em 'long here an' we'll make the hoppergrass-house.

"Hol' your own hand, honey, you'll learn best that-a-way. Can't forgit the feelin' of it once you build it on yo' fingers.

Fig. 62.—Put the grass around your middle finger with the end inside.	Fig. 63.—Lay the next grass across the first.
Fig. 64.—Bend back the ends of the first grass.	Fig. 65.—Put the next grass across your hand.

Fig. 66.—Bend back the second grass ends like the first.

"Take one piece o' grass an' put it round yo' middle finger with the ends inside like this (Fig. 62). Now lay the next piece right across the first (Fig. 63), an' bend back the ends of the first grass over the tother an' tuck 'em 'tween yo' fingers just like that (Fig. 64). Put the next grass across yo' hand (Fig. 65), an' take up the second grass-ends, bendin' 'em back to keep company with first grass-ends. That makes another bar (Fig. 66). Now yo' do it an' let mammy see how yo' git along. That's right, lay the grass across an' put the under ends back ev'ry time. How many bars has yo' got now? Six? That's 'nough fo' any hoppergrass, an' is as many as yo' little hand can hol' anyway.

"Now slip it offen yo' fingers, bring the ends together an' tie with a blade o' grass just above these here blossom ends (see illustration). There now, yo' done made a hoppergrass-house, an' don' yo' come askin' yo' ole mammy to stop her work no more."

That is the way the little girls and boys in the South are taught to make the grasshopper-houses, by the old colored "mammies." They are funny little cages, and, of course, will not hold a grasshopper or any other insect, but we like to imagine they will.

The grasshopper-house

There are other things to make of grasses, any one of them requiring only a few moments' work, and it is a pretty, quiet occupation for restless little fingers. Sitting in the orchard, nestling like little partridges amid the tall grasses, all your materials are close at hand. Reach out and gather some of the long-bladed grass, and we will make

A Doll's Hammock.

Fig. 67.—Tie them together at the root ends.

Fig. 68.—Lift two of the grasses and tie them together.

Fig. 69.—Tie them all in pairs.

Fig. 70.—Make the knots of the second row one inch below the first row.

The grass hammock.

Some of this grass measures twenty-five inches in length. It does not grow on stalks, but the blade appears to spring directly from the root, and it is smooth and pliable. You may find orchard-grass almost any where, generally in neglected corners and close to fences where the scythe does not reach.

Take eight or ten of the blades of this grass and tie them together at the root-ends as in Fig. 67, drawing the knot tight as in Fig. 68. Stick a pin through just below the knot and fasten to your knee; then lift two of the grasses at the right-hand side, and tie them together about one inch below the pin (Fig. 68). Tie the next two grasses together in the same manner, the next, and the next, until you have tied them all in pairs (Fig. 69). Make the second row by separating the pairs of the first and tying one grass of one pair to the neighboring grass of the next pair, making the knots one inch below the first row. This leaves the first and last grasses hanging loose (Fig. 70). On the third row the first and last grasses are tied in once more (Fig. 70). On the fourth they are left again, and so they alternate until the hammock is finished. Keep the rows of knots at even distances apart, and make the hammock as long as the length of the grass will allow. Leave about three inches of the grass below the last row of knots, and then tie the ends together as in the illustration. Swing the little hammock between the low-hanging branches of a tree; put your dolly in it and let the summer breezes rock her to sleep while you sing:

Rock-a-by baby in the tree-top.

A very pretty

Bouquet-Holder

can be made of seed-grasses and one long blade of grass. In this you may carry the most delicate wild flowers and ferns without wilting them by the warmth of your hand.

Bouquet-holder made of seed-grass.

Fig. 71.—Bunch together the seed-grass stalks.

Bunch together seven fine, strong seed-grass stalks and tie just below the blossoms, with the root-end of your long-blade grass (Fig. 71). The stems of the seed-grasses are the spokes, the long grass the weaver. Turn the blossom-ends down, the stem-ends up, and close to where it is tied, begin to weave the long grass in and out, under one spoke, over the next, under the third, over the fourth, going around and around spirally until the end of the weaver is reached, then tie it to one of the spokes. Keep forcing the spokes farther and farther apart as you weave until the holder is shaped like a cone. As you see in the illustration, the weaver never passes over one of the spokes twice in succession. In one row it goes over a spoke, in the next row under it, in the third over again, and so on. In order that it may always come this way you must have an uneven number of spokes. Four will not do, nor six, nor eight, but five, seven, or nine spokes will bring the weave out all right.

A Grass Napkin-Ring

is another thing that can be made by weaving or braiding the grasses.

Grass napkin-ring.

Fig. 72.—Take one blade from each bunch and cross them.

Fig. 73.—Bring C over A and D under B and over C.

Select ten fine long blades of grass, divide them into two bunches of five each, put the root-ends together, and tie them as when making the hammock. Pin these two bunches to your knee about two inches apart, and taking one blade from each bunch, cross them as in Fig. 72, the right-hand grass A on top of the left-hand grass B. Now bring the left-hand grass C over A, and the right-hand grass D under B and over C (Fig. 73). Next weave the left-hand grass E under A and over D, then the right-hand grass F over B, under C, and over E. Weave the remaining four grasses in the same way, taking first from one side, then from the other. When your work has reached the stage shown in Fig. 74, take the grass A, turn it under and weave it in and out as in Fig. 76, then the grass B, turn it over and weave until it crosses A (Fig. 76). D comes next, to be woven until it crosses B, then C, which will cross D. On the left hand always turn the grasses under before beginning to weave, on the right hand turn them over before beginning to weave.

Fig. 74—Weave the remaining grasses in the same way.

Fig. 76.—Turn the grass A under, and weave it in and out.

When You Have Woven

or braided a strip about five inches long, untie the two knots at the top, form the braid into a ring and tie the opposite ends together in two knots. The groups G and G in Fig. 77 form one knot, the groups H and H the other knot. Trim the ends off neatly and the napkin-ring will look like the one in the illustration.

Fig. 77.—Tie the opposite ends together.

Do not use rough or saw-edged grasses for any of this work, for they sometimes cut the hands, and the seed-top grasses must not be old enough to shed their seeds into your eyes. When dry most grass is quite brittle and will break if you attempt to bend it. The fresh, green, soft and pliable grasses are the kind you need and these you may always find in season.

CHAPTER VII

THE POSSIBILITIES OF A CLOTHES-LINE

YOU can form it into graceful patterns of curves and coils, loops and rings; you can weave it basket-fashion or net it together with brass curtain-rings, and you can fray it out into soft, pretty tassels. You can make it into a decorative wood-basket, a grille for an open doorway, fringe for curtains and portières, or decoration for the top of a wooden chest. One use will suggest another and you will probably find some way of adapting the rope that has never yet been thought of.

Hemp rope and cotton, large rope and small, down to the ordinary heavy twine, all lend themselves to this work.

It requires a rather heavy clothes-line, one considerably lighter, called by some rope-cord, and a piece of strong twine for the

Wood-Basket

shown in the illustration.

The wood-basket.

Make the bottom of a board two feet long and sixteen inches wide, and on each end of the board nail securely one-half of a barrel-hoop (Fig. 78). From an old broom-stick cut four rounds one inch thick for the feet (Fig. 79), and fasten one round to each corner underneath the board with strong screws or wire nails (Fig. 78, Z Z). This is all the wood you will need for the basket, the rest is to be made entirely of rope.