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Italian Yesterdays, vol. 1

Chapter 1: ITALIAN YESTERDAYS VOL. I
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A series of personal reminiscences and historical sketches intertwines legends of ancient beginnings, Roman civic and religious traditions, and early Christian martyrdom with vivid memories of modern Roman seasons, street life, gardens, villas, and country festivals. The narrative moves between antiquarian observation—ruins, rites, myths, catacombs—and intimate travelogue detail such as walks on the Appian Way, rustic harvests and feasts, aristocratic estates and secluded Renaissance gardens, and church pilgrimages, blending affectionate provincial and urban portraiture with reflective commentary on continuity and change.

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Title: Italian Yesterdays, vol. 1

Author: Mrs. Hugh Fraser

Release date: August 1, 2017 [eBook #55238]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Charlene Taylor, Barbara Magni and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ITALIAN YESTERDAYS, VOL. 1 ***

ITALIAN YESTERDAYS VOL. I


ITALIAN
YESTERDAYS

BY

MRS. HUGH FRASER

Author of “A Diplomatist’s Wife in Japan,”
“A Diplomatist’s Wife in Many Lands,”
“Reminiscences of a Diplomatist’s Wife,” etc.

VOL. I

NEW YORK
DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY
1913


Copyright, 1913, by

DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY

Published November, 1913


CONTENTS OF VOL. I

CHAPTER I

PAGE

Impressions of Early Rome 1

Romance and Companionship of the Past—Rome the Supremely Beloved—Pictures and Legends of Her Origin—Migration of the Alban Shepherds—Romulus and Remus—Etruria’s Civilisation—Whole World Contributes to Rome’s Growth—Brilliant Scenes in the Roman World—Rome’s High Destiny—Numa Pompilius, the Law-giver—Egeria’s Grotto—Love Story of Herodes Atticus and Annia Regilla—Early Christianity.

CHAPTER II

Reminiscences of Modern Rome 18

Rome’s Seasons—Childhood Memories of a Roman Spring—My Birthday Festival—A Day in the Country—The Appian Way—Rome’s Great Wall—An Adventure with the Campagna Steers—Campagna Sheep-Dogs—Early Morning Street Scenes—The Giardino Colonna—Secluded Italian Gardens—Inroads of Commercialism—Discovery of a Dream-Garden of the Renaissance—Song of the Nightingale in the Lost Italian Garden.

CHAPTER III

Last Days of the Apostles 34

St. Peter’s First Visit to Rome—Wide Scope of His Work—Rome Destined to Become the Seat of Ecclesiastical Government—St. Peter’s Early Converts—Persecution of the Jews—Life in the Catacombs—Simon Magus and St. Peter—Peter’s Return to Rome—Nero’s Slaughter of Christians—Peter’s Vision—“Lord, Whither Goest Thou?”—Preparation for Martyrdom—Last Epistle—St. Peter’s Successor—Imprisonment of St. Peter and St. Paul—Scenes of Final Tragedy—Crucifixion of Peter—Paul Beheaded—Devotion of Their Followers.

CHAPTER IV

Roman Yesterdays 51

The Gods of the Roman World—Leaven of Christianity—Measures of the Emperors Against the Christians—Nine General Persecutions—Mad Extremes of Heliogabalus—Rescue of the Bodies of the Apostles—Tragic History of the Appian Way—The Joys of Solitude—How Marion Crawford Became the Master of San Niccola—A Solitude of Relaxation and Quiet—A Secluded Garden on the River in Rome—The Contrasts of Life and the Happiness in Hoping—An Artists’ Festival—How a Roman Emperor Looked.

CHAPTER V

A Feudal Villa 64

Ancient Beauty of Villa Borghese—A Sylvan Siesta—The Woodland of the Borghese—The Heart of the Trees—The Borghese Anemone—Vintage Time in the Grape Countries—Tuscany, an Atmosphere of Purity and Calm—Bunches of Grapes Two Feet Long—Muscatels of Etruria—October Festivals at the Villa Borghese—Peasants of the Coast Towns—Picturesque Costume of the Albanese—Feast in the Private Garden—Fountains of Wine—Classic Chariot Races—The Passing of the Feudal System.

CHAPTER VI

A Church Pilgrimage 79

Church’s Pilgrimage on the Feast of the Apostles—The Seven Commemorative Churches—The Byzantine Basilica of St. Paul—The Apostle’s Tomb—Ostian Way, the Saddest of All Roads—The Tideless Sea—Call of the Unknown, Gorgeous East—Santa Pudentiana, the Site of St. Paul’s First Abiding Place in Rome—Christianity in Early Rome—Priest Pastor’s Story of the Pudens Family—Holy Relics—Story of the Crime of the Vico Scellerato—The Last of the Roman Kings.

CHAPTER VII

The Later Emperors 94

People and Scenes of the Corso—The Collegio Romano—Cardinal Merry del Val—Church of the Trinità dei Monti—A Picture of the Emperor Theodosius and His Son—The Other Boy Emperor, Gratian—The Usurper, Maximus—Nobility of Gratian—Finally Overcome by Treachery—Saint Ambrose—Fifth Day at St. Peter of the Chains—Two Christian Empresses—The Miracle of the Chains—High Mass at San Pietro—Latter Days of the Pilgrimage—View from Janiculum Hill—Michelangelo and Vasari—Michelangelo’s “Visiting Card.”

CHAPTER VIII

The End of the Pilgrimage 118

Final Function of the Pilgrimage—St. John Lateran—A Daring Climb—A Story of St. Francis of Assisi—Dante’s Tribute—Rome’s Ghetto—Yellow Banksia Roses—Fair on the Eve of the Feast of St. John the Baptist—Early Figs—St. Anthony and the Sucking Pig—Rome’s Studios—A Picture of Hébert’s—Hamon’s Work.

CHAPTER IX

St. Cecilia 136

Persecution Result of Covetousness—Steady Growth of Christianity—Story of Saint Cecilia—Dress of a Patrician Woman—A Roman Marriage—Cecilia’s Consecration—Apparition of St. Paul—Cecilia’s Guardian Angel—Conversion of Two Roman Nobles—Slaughter of Christians—A Declaration of Faith—Condemnation of the Nobles.

CHAPTER X

Martyrdom of St. Cecilia 154

A Glorious Martyrdom—A Vision of Heaven—The Bodies of the Martyrs—Prefect Incensed Against St. Cecilia—Preparation for Death—Her Trial—Her Victory and Martyrdom—The Miracle of Her Three Days’ Ministering—Final Honours—Martyrdom of St. Urban and His Companions—Cecilia’s Place Among Martyrs—Her Tomb in the Catacombs—Pope Paschal’s Vision of St. Cecilia—Cecilia’s Restoration to Her Own Church—History of Her Church—The Second Finding of Her Body—Her Statue.

CHAPTER XI

The Church under Constantine 181

Constantine’s Edict—St. Sylvester, the Friend of Constantine—Refuge at Soracte—The Emperor’s Vision—“In Hoc Vinces”—Constantine’s Baptism—The Church Has Peace—Helena’s Basilica—The Blessing of the Golden Rose—Origin of St. Peter’s—The Obelisk from Heliopolis—Testimony of the Dust of the Martyrs—The Place of the Shock of Horses—The Beauty of St. Peter’s—Pilgrims from Britain—Charlemagne, the Blessed.

CHAPTER XII

Story of Alaric 199

Pursuit of the Ideal—Alaric, the Friend of Theodosius—Theodosius’ Dream—The Victory at the Birnbaumer Wald—Defection of Alaric—Pictures of the Plundering of Rome—Marcella and Principia—St. Peter’s Treasures—Plans Against Africa—Alaric’s Death and Last Resting-place.

CHAPTER XIII

The Sphinx of French History 212

The Battleground of Europe—The Riddle of “The Man in the Iron Mask”—Its True Story—Louis XIV’s Ambition in Italy—Plot to Secure Casale—Character of Charles, Duke of Mantua—Count Mattioli, His Favourite—Terms of the Transfer—Mission of the Count to Paris—Conclusion of the Treaty—Mattioli’s Double Dealing—Ominous Delays—The Storm Breaks.

CHAPTER XIV

Truth of the Iron Mask 226

Mattioli’s Betrayal of Louis XIV—Participation of Duke Charles—Louis’ True Character Exhibited to World—Abduction of Mattioli—Imprisoned for Fifteen Years—Insanity—Story of the Mask—Mattioli’s Disappearance No Mystery—Explanation of the Riddle—Mattioli’s Hardships—His End.

CHAPTER XV

A “Cause Célèbre” 236

The Defrêne Case, a Drama of Crime and of Justice—The Marquis Defrêne—Marie-Elizabeth du Tillay—Elopement— Bogus Marriage—Flight to England—Marriage Made Legal—The Marquis Tires of the Marriage State—Evil Plans—Marie-Elizabeth Forewarned—Adventures of Her Flight—The “Penitent” Defrêne—Compromising Letters—The Vindication of Marie-Elizabeth—A Judicial Separation.

CHAPTER XVI

Eustochia 249

A Child of Sin—Born 1444—Her Early Peculiarities— Physical Possession by Evil Spirits—Sent to a Convent—A Life of Devotion—Eustochia a Novitiate—A Supernatural Accident—Belief that She Was a Hypocrite—Resignation—The Evil Spirit in Possession— Frightful Torments—Evil Portents—A Sorceress?— Imprisonment—Persecutions by Invisible Powers—Regaining Good Esteem—A Nun—Her Sanctity and Constancy—Her Death and Burial.

CHAPTER XVII

A Sketch of Verona 270

Personality of Italian Towns—Verona—Its History—Early Years—Ezzelino da Romano, Unique in Cruelty—Wholesale Execution and Imprisonment—Pope Alexander IV Assails the Monster—Ezzelino Wounded and Captured—Suicide—New Line of Despots—Cangrande della Scala—Dante and Petrarch—Further Lords of Verona—Later History—The Drei Kaiser Bund.

CHAPTER XVIII

The Bravi of Venice 288

Fascination of Venice’s Criminal Administration—Lords of the Night—Secret Detectives—Degeneration of Republic—Hired Ruffians—Their Murderous Activities—An Escapade of Pesaro, Paragon of Bravi—Gambara, Last of the Despots—Open War Against Law and Order—Final Pardon.

CHAPTER XIX

Legendary Venice 298

Venice, Bride of the Sea—Its Glorious Children—Pledge of the Crown of Thorns—The Miracle of Saint Saba’s Relics—Intellectual Humility and Faith—St. Mark, Patron of the Venetians—Theft of the Saint’s Remains from Alexandria—Reception in Venice—Early History—Tales of Hardships—The Gate of the Damsels—Legends of the Saint.

CHAPTER XX

A Doge’s Life 311

A Wicked Son—Becomes Doge—His Marriage—Ambitions— Venice a Huge Conspiracy—The Palace Surrounded—His Fate—Venetian Ideals—Story of a Feud of the Tenth Century—Opened with an Assassination—Murderer Upheld by the Emperor—Venice Attacked—A Civil War in Venice—Uprising of the Citizens—Another Doge—Building of St. Mark’s—The Doge and the French Abbot—The Doge Become a Monk—A Story of Marion Crawford’s.

CHAPTER XXI

“The Wedding of the Sea” 324

Origin—Venice’s Growth—Treaties with the Emperor—Pietro Orseolo Annihilates the Pirates—Welcome on His Return—Story of Marco Polo—A Trader with the East—A Strange Journey—Bokhara—Capital of Kublai Khan—Impressed with Christian Ideals—Return Journey—At Home in Venice—Failure of Plans to Convert the Tartars—Again in the Far East—Lost for Twenty-five Years—Return to Venice with Vast Wealth—A Gorgeous Banquet—Marco’s Rehabilitation—Ruskin and the Church.

CHAPTER XXII

War with Genoa 335

Supernatural Recovery of the Apostle’s Body—Ruskin’s Account—Origin of the War—Early Life of Carlo Zeno—His Conquests—Governor of a Province in Greece—Return to Venice—Adventures at Constantinople—Escape of Zeno—Tenedos Becomes Venetian—Attack of the Genoese—Their Repulse—Carlo’s Popularity in Venice—Pisani’s Career—Carlo Routs the Genoese—Peace— Carlo’s Fame—His Visit to Jerusalem—Last Scuffle with the Genoese—Life in Venice.