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Jacquard Weaving and Designing

Chapter 46: INDEX
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About This Book

A practical manual combining technical instruction on jacquard and harness weaving with guidance in pattern design for figured textiles. It traces the development of draw and jacquard-type looms, explains machine components and their operation, and covers pattern-drafting methods, warp-and-weft relationships, colour effects, and material choices. Chapters offer concise, applied explanations aimed at designers, manufacturers, and students, illustrating the translation of artistic motifs into loom instructions and the practical considerations of production. Emphasis is placed on clear technique, efficient machine use, and harmonizing artistic composition with mechanical and material constraints.

INDEX

  • Axminster carpets, 266, 288
  • Barrel or cylinder loom, 17
  • Beeting a harness, 89
  • Bessrook machine, 185
  • Border design, 97, 100, 115, 134
  • — mountings, 105
  • Bouchon’s loom, 18
  • Brussels carpets, 27
  • Cards, 51, 147
  • Card cutting, 139
  • — — machines, 143
  • — — — (Count Sparres’), 299
  • — — — (French), 167
  • — frames, 47, 156
  • — lacing, 139
  • — — machines, 148
  • — repeating machines, 149
  • Carpets, 264
  • — chenille, 290
  • — Axminster, 266, 288
  • — Brussels, 276
  • — Indian, 265
  • — Ingrain, 269
  • — Kidderminster, 266
  • — patent Axminster, 289
  • — Persian, 265
  • — royal Axminster, 288
  • — Scotch, 266
  • — tapestry, 285
  • — Turkish, 265
  • — Wilton, 284
  • Centred tie, 97
  • Chenille, 290
  • Comb draw loom, 16
  • Comber boards, 82, 103
  • Cross-border jacquard, 155
  • Cross’s counterpoise harness, 14
  • Cumber boards, 82, 103
  • Curtains and tapestries, 248
  • Cylinder motions (horizontal), 44
  • — (self-acting), 36
  • — (slide), 43, 57, 61
  • — (swing), 33, 56, 58
  • — to set a, 40, 43
  • Designing and draughting, 110
  • — hints on, 120
  • Design paper, 112
  • — to prepare a, 115
  • Designs, 94, 97, 100
  • — for dress goods, 122
  • — for gathered borders, 97
  • — for single borders, 100
  • — (repeating), 94, 122
  • — (texture), 124
  • Double cloth, 233
  • — — jacquard, 241
  • — warp faced cloth, 237
  • — weft faced cloth, 235
  • Draughting a pattern, 115
  • Draw loom, 3
  • — — French, 24
  • Drawing in a warp, 99
  • Falcon’s loom, 19
  • French card, 51
  • — — cutting machine, 167
  • — draw loom, 24
  • — jacquard, 49
  • Full harness, 69
  • — — mountings, 69
  • Gathered tie, 97
  • Gauze, 196
  • — to design a pattern, 215
  • — harness (hand-loom), 203
  • — — (power-loom), 205
  • Gauze, jacquard, 214, 223
  • — patterns, 197, 198, 217
  • — reed, 225
  • Griffes, 37, 52
  • Hair-line patterns, 129
  • Half-harness, 69, 169
  • Harness, drawing warp into, 99
  • — illustrations of, 96, 98, 102, 191
  • — to prepare a, 71
  • — to tie up a, 87
  • — (double cloth), 233
  • — (full), 69
  • — (gauze), 203, 205
  • — (half), 69, 169
  • — (muslin), 169
  • — (pressure), 70, 174
  • — (quilting), 233
  • — reeds, 82
  • — (split), 62, 172
  • — twine, 75
  • Hecks, 77
  • Hole board, 83
  • Hooks for jacquard, 38, 39, 52, 59
  • — in double-acting jacquard, 55, 59
  • Indian carpets, 265
  • Ingrain carpets, 269
  • Introduction, 1
  • Jacquard’s machine, 23
  • Jacquard machines, 27
  • — (cross-border), 155
  • — (double-acting), 52
  • — (double cloth), 241
  • — (double-acting with two cylinders), 58
  • — (French), 49
  • — (gauze), 214
  • — (Karl Wein), 192
  • — (leno), 214
  • — (open-shed), 161
  • — (quilting), 241
  • — (twilling), 185
  • — (Verdôl), 163
  • — cards, 50
  • — cylinder, to set a, 40, 43
  • — hooks, 38, 39, 52, 59
  • — interior of, 38
  • — needles, 38, 39, 52, 59
  • — shedding, 60, 62
  • — stop motion, 64
  • — to set a, 43, 46, 76
  • Karl Wein jacquard, 192
  • Kidderminster carpet, 266
  • Lacing cards, 139
  • — machine, 148
  • — twine, 147
  • Lappet weaving, 298
  • Lashing a pattern, 9
  • Leno jacquard, 214
  • Letters, mottoes, &c., 136
  • Levelling frames, 85
  • — the mails, 86
  • Lingoes, 72, 74
  • London tie, 96
  • Marking off a cumber board, 103
  • Marseilles quilt, 246
  • Matelasses, 246
  • Mottoes and letters, 136
  • Mountings, 69
  • Muslin harness, 169
  • Neck of harness, 79
  • Needles, 38
  • Norwich tie, 95
  • Open-shed jacquard, 161
  • Paints for patterns, 116
  • Parrot machine, 11
  • Patent Axminster carpet, 289
  • Pattern, to draught a, 115
  • Patterns (carpet), 280, 282-3
  • — (gauze), 197, 217
  • — (hair-line), 129
  • — (spot), 130
  • — (texture), 124
  • Persian carpets, 265
  • Piano machine, 145
  • Pile work, 259
  • Point paper, 112
  • Poplins, 252
  • Pressure harness, 174
  • Quilting, 247
  • Quilting harness, 233
  • Reading a pattern, 9
  • Repeat of a pattern, 94
  • Repeating machines, 149
  • Reversing motions, 45
  • Royal Axminster carpets, 28
  • Scotch carpets, 266
  • Set of harness (to vary), 106
  • Setting a jacquard, 43, 46, 76
  • Shading floral forms, 118
  • Shedding of jacquards, 62
  • Simple (draw loom), 3
  • Slabstock, 85
  • Sleepers, 73
  • Slips (comber board), 83
  • Split harness, 172
  • Spot patterns, 131
  • Spring box, 42
  • Stop motion, 64
  • Suggestions on design, 120
  • Swivel weaving, 298
  • Tail cords, 54
  • Tapestry (real), 255
  • — carpets, 285
  • — curtains, 248
  • Terry pile, 260
  • Texture patterns, 124
  • Tie of a harness, 93
  • Trap board, 15
  • Turkey carpets, 265
  • Turkish towels, 260
  • Twilling designs, 117, 133
  • — jacquards, 185
  • Twills for damask, 181
  • Tying up a harness, 87
  • Varnishing a harness, 92
  • Varying the set of a harness, 106
  • Vaucanson’s loom, 22
  • Verdôl jacquard, 49, 163
  • Wilton carpets, 284
  • Wiring cards, 153
  • Woollens and worsteds, 248

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