Early Uses
The bracelet (from bras, the French for arm) or armlet was in early times worn at various places along the arm. Placed high on the forearm and above the biceps, a tight band gave added strength to the warrior for speedy manipulation of his shield. A woman was more likely to wear her bracelets closer to the wrist. In some parts of the Orient, however, bracelets of coins were worn by the women as evidence of their husbands’ wealth; these might, band after band, encircle the entire arm, making it, in full regalia on formal occasions, much too heavy for lifting. In general, bracelets were worn in styles determined by the fashion of the age and the rank of the wearer. Today, their use is purely for decorative purposes.
The Emperors of India
The earliest bracelets, among the ancient Egyptians and probably the Hebrews, employed no precious stones, being solid bands of plain or enameled metal that slipped over the hands. The practice of setting the bracelet with brightly colored gems grew almost elaborate among the Mogul Emperors of India. Two of these royal bracelets of great splendor were carried off from Delhi by the Persian conqueror Nadir Shah in 1739. The main stone of the right armlet is the twin of the Kohinoor, the almost equally famous Darya-i-nur, “river of light.” It is a diamond of 186 carats, recognized as having the finest brilliance in the world. The main stone of the left armlet is a diamond of 146 carats, the Taj-e-mah, “crown of the moon.”
Various Materials
Among primitive peoples, bracelets of various materials have been continuously popular, often several worn on a single arm. The better ones are made of gold, silver, or mother-of-pearl; others are fashioned of iron, copper, horn, beads and other materials. In China, prized bracelets are cut of a single piece of jade.
In the Orient, the use of the bracelet never lapsed. In Europe, the arm decoration—along with other adornment—grew less popular in the Middle Ages, but with the flowering of the Renaissance the bracelet again came into fashion.
Types of Bracelets
There are two main types of bracelets in general use. First came the stiff bangle bracelet, a rigid band. This may be of one piece, the so-called “slave” bracelet, which must be slipped over the hand. Or it may be provided with a hinged and a pronged catch or other form of a clasp, which either opens or loosens the bracelet for putting on and removal. The second type is the flexible bracelet. This may be a linked chain or a series of motifs. In recent years a sort of spring-link device has been developed so that the bracelet opens to slip over the hand, then tightens to cling to the appropriate position on the arm.
Favorite Shapes
In either of these types, there are three popular shapes in which the bracelet may be fashioned. It may be tapered, thin on the underside of the wrist and wider on the back, which is of course the part most prominently displayed. Gold or diamond bracelets lend themselves to this form. More frequent is the straight bracelet, even all around the arm. This may be of gold, diamonds, pearls, or other stones, in a single band or in several rows that make a sort of cuff. The third popular variety is a bracelet with a comparatively simple band crowned with a major motif, centered, of course, on the upper side of the wrist.
The Special Clasp
This prominent center design may be utilized as the clasp of the bracelet. A separate design for the clasp, indeed, may add considerably to the beauty of the jewel. In fact, an attractive motif for concealing the actual mechanism of the clasp affords one of the few opportunities for making use of another jewel. A treasured brooch or ring, without requiring the resetting of stones or the breaking up of the jewel, may be incorporated into a bracelet as an ornamental clasp. The beautiful round or oval Victorian brooches, the still charming baroque flower pins and rings, lend themselves with exceptional readiness to this use. Such a clasp, as a centerpiece, may grace a many-stranded pearl bracelet, or one of gold chain or gold motifs.
Bracelet Width
The width of the bracelet should never exceed the width of the special clasp. Too wide a band will dwarf the clasp and destroy its decorative value. In this style of bracelet, the clasp is designed to be a dramatic eye-catcher.
For the Slim Arm
If the wrist is small, the bracelet should be worn low on the arm. A narrow gold or pearl bracelet will be most becoming. Too wide a band will tend to make the hand seem bony. A slim arm will seem rounder with a bracelet of slender chains set with small stones.
A pleasantly slender wrist calls for a striking bracelet that will hold the eye. It may be tight fitting with a motif on top. This will draw attention to the attractive feature, in the same way that a beautiful hand is enhanced by a dramatic ring.
If the hand is short or if for any reason the nails are worn short, the bracelet should be set somewhat higher on the arm. This will permit the wrist to blend with the hand in such a way as to give an effect of length, counteracting any stubbiness at the fingertips.
For the Heavier Wrist
A heavy wrist should be adorned with a chunky, three-dimensional bracelet. Similarly, if the arm is heavy, the bracelet should be of a bulky, built-out design. In general, the bulkier and the higher built the bracelet, the smaller will seem the unit of wrist and hand. Wearing the bracelet higher on the arm will draw the eyes upward away from the wrist and tend to minimize any thickness. If the wristbone is prominent, a plain bracelet should be avoided. Grace will be added by a bracelet studded with bright stones.
Fitting a Bracelet
The stiff bangle bracelet must be fitted to the contour of the arm, so that it will be comfortable and will stay in the proper place. Arms have many subtle differences; their contours are variously pleasing, according to the coordination of length, bone structure, thickness and rounding curvature. The position of such a bracelet should be decided when it is bought, and it should then be fitted to that place upon the arm. It should be tight enough to prevent sliding or turning, yet not tight enough to make the arm bulge on either side. The bracelet should be carefully tested for its place, as it is difficult and costly to alter.
If a bracelet is to be worn over the sleeve of a dress, again care must be taken to see that it is loose enough to slide and to lie comfortably. Neither a bracelet around the arm nor a belt around the waist should seem too confining. Any tightness, as with the olden hour-glass corsets, belongs below the surface. Trimness, not strain, is beauty’s accordant sign.
General Thoughts
A bracelet should not be worn over a glove, unless the glove is to remain on for the entire evening.
Although gold as well as platinum may form the setting for a diamond bracelet, a gold bracelet and a platinum one should not be worn together.
Note that more than one bracelet (unless all are of very similar design) is no more flattering a decoration than a single one. Several of much the same sort may form a wide-banded unit; different designs will suggest confusion and clash.
As with other jewels, properly chosen bracelets can accentuate one’s attractive features, and guide the eyes swiftly and unheedingly away from less attractive ones. An appropriate and beautiful bracelet moves the attention from the hand along the wrist, following the graceful movements of the arm.
The Anklet
Anklets today are worn by exotic dancers and teenagers. In ancient times, the anklet had two distinct uses. In iron, it was the sign and token of a slave. As a jewel, it adorned a woman in her work-free hours, or a woman whose sole work was to entertain her lord and master. For this purpose, it might be of gold or of colored glass; often there dangled from the band gold medallions that tinkled or bells that gaily chimed as the wearer walked or moved in her dancing.
The second type of anklet, in the western world today, is to be seen only on the stage; even there, mainly in musical comedies with an Oriental setting. But, perhaps to counterbalance the identification bracelets worn by the young men called to the colors in the wars of this century, some of the girls they left behind have taken to wearing “slave anklets.” At first a sign of a promised waiting, these soon became a vogue, and they are still worn by some young women without thought of any binding attachment.
The usual anklet is a thin chain of links of gold, but some are interspersed with small pearls, and some have a colored stone set snug in the band, near the anklebone at each side. They should not be worn in the evening to any kind of formal affair and indeed should be discarded as soon as the teenager has grown.