How to Care For Jewels
There are many misconceptions as to the care and the cleaning of jewels. And there is but one sound rule. When jewelry needs to be cleaned, take it to the jeweler.
A woman who takes her jewels to a jeweler, to have him clean them, is showing that she regards him as her regular dealer; as such, he will be happy to clean them without charge. At the same time, he will check the settings, the clasps, the safety catches. While home cleaning might damage a stone, or loosen it in its setting, professional work restores the jewel so that it is both cleaner and more secure than before.
Home Care
There is one way in which a woman can help to keep her jewelry clean. Every time that a jewel is worn, it should be wiped with clean tissue paper, or chamois leather, before being put away. (Facial tissue should not be used, as it will leave a fuzz.) Such a gentle wiping will remove the grease of finger-marks, and other marks or specks.
Cleaning Don’ts
In general, it is inadvisable to use a brush for cleaning jewelry, as it tends to loosen the stones. Eventually—not while being cleaned, but during an otherwise pleasant evening—a stone may fall from the setting.
Ammonia, soap, and other cleaning agents are likely to leave a film. This may be imperceptible; a woman may think she has “cleaned it all off”; and yet it may greatly lessen the brilliance of the stone.
Soaking in boiling water—with or without chemicals—is dangerous. Some alloys as well as some stones cannot stand such treatment. Likewise sudden heat, or sudden cooling, may seriously damage certain stones; some may even crack, or break. Most delicate are the emerald, the peridot, the aquamarine, and the turquoise.
The turquoise especially should not come into contact with fatty or oily substances. It is porous, and such substances are likely to change its color, or to make it dull.
In every case, when she is tempted to apply home cleaning to her jewels, a woman should remember that the jeweler is equipped with steam blowers and other modern devices, each for its particular type of stone, and he is glad to be called upon to give his expert knowledge and gentle care.
Pearls
Perhaps most care is required in the handling of the pearl. Boiling, for example, is almost sure to loosen any pearls in a jewel. All chemicals are to be avoided.
For casual cleaning, a pearl necklace may be wiped with a clean and slightly damp cloth. It should not be pulled; the best way is to roll it on a towel.
If the necklace becomes too wet, the string may become loosened. A pearl necklace, indeed, should be regularly restrung; there is little sense in waiting until it breaks. When the knots near the clasp of the necklace have become grey, restringing time has come.
One must be careful not to put perfume, or any liquid containing alcohol, on, or close to, pearls. They may lose their lustre, or even start to peel.
At the hairdresser’s, pearls should of course be removed before any treatment. The heat of the dryer, for example, may loosen the pearls in their settings.
Reminders
Some of the things in this chapter I have already said; this is a time for reminders. And one important reminder is that, even if the front pearls are strung without knots—and they will be more lustrous if thus close together—a few pearls on each side of the clasp should always be knotted. That is the danger spot for breaks.
Another helpful reminder is that elaborate jewels may be made with removable or convertible parts. I have discussed in detail how a very formal jewel, likely to be worn on rare occasions, may be so fashioned that, in various smaller units, it can be enjoyed more freely and frequently.
And just one more reminder—about the necklace clasp. A colored stone, such as an emerald or a ruby, may highlight a necklace of pearls. Or the clasp may be of a single pearl, encircled by marquise or baguette diamonds. But here is the place to enshrine that still precious but “grown too small” engagement ring: make the engagement diamond the chief stone in the necklace clasp. And of course something suitable must come for that empty space next to the wedding band!
More Cautioning
Several other observations will be helpful.
A small pearl clasp should never be worn in front. Instead of looking attractive, it will just look untidy.
A pearl necklace and a gold necklace should not be worn together. Each will weaken the effect of the other.
Rhinestone ornaments should be avoided when one is wearing precious jewelry. Rhinestones on dress or evening bag will cheapen the entire effect. With jewelry, all other accessories should be subdued.
The amethyst is a temperamental stone. If worn in a ring, it calls for nail polish in the purple hues. If these are unbecoming to a woman’s hands, the amethyst is not for her. This may happen when the skin pigment tends to be dark; amethysts may then make it seem sallow. But if the purple hues are becoming, there may be great beauty in the amethyst.
Modern and antique jewels—this is an emphatic reminder—should never be worn together. Modern cuts make stones so brilliant that they will overshadow the daintier antiques, and may even make them look false. The charm of the antique lies in its intricate and delicate workmanship, in the grace of its details. Beside modern pieces, these qualities are lost. Always, the one exception is the wearing of the engagement and the wedding ring; these may be worn with either modern or antique jewels.
For Travel
One of the major concerns in regard to jewelry is its protection away from home. Such questions as how to carry it, and how to insure it, call for consideration and prior care.
Insurance
All good jewelry should of course be insured, itemized piece by piece. This involves an appraisal by a recognized jewelry firm, which will register the various jewels, listing the number of stones and their weight, and indicating the current retail replacement value. There should also be a photographic record made of the jewels. This may be kept in microfilm. Most large jewelers keep a photographic record of every jewel that passes through their hands.
The appraisal of the jewels should be kept up to date. Values of stones are in a state of constant change; usually there is an increase. Once a year is not too often for a reappraisal, and the insurance broker should at once be informed of any significant changes. Such a revised evaluation is a guarantee of full compensation in the event of loss, and gives an adjustor no ground for argument as to the value of a jewel or a stone.
The inventory should include every piece of jewelry, including the less expensive items, such as might be worn every day. These are just the ones that are likely to be lost or stolen.
The Traveling Case
Since most policies cover the loss or theft of jewels at home or abroad, there is no need to leave precious jewels at home while traveling. There is, of course, no need to advertise their presence by boarding a ship or plane with a standard jewelry case carefully in hand. Much less conspicuous, as well as safer and more convenient, is a jewelry pouch carried inside the handbag.
Individual pouches can accommodate the various jewels. Long experience traveling with many jewels, both of my professional and of my personal collection, enabled me to fashion a pouch that combines practicality with good looks. This pattern has come to be widely used, and may be purchased at leading stores throughout the country.
The pouch is made of suede leather, chamois lined; it contains partitions that comfortably hold the various types of jewel: bracelets, earclips, clips, rings, necklaces, and the rest. Bracelets and necklaces, of course, should not be forced out of shape by rolling or bending, lest the stones be pressed out of their settings.
The chamois is designed to keep the jewels apart, so as not to scratch one another. Hard gems might, for instance, injure the skin of pearls. The hardest of all, the diamond, must be carefully wrapped so that it will not scratch other stones.
Should there be enough jewels in the collection to warrant more than one pouch, the lucky owner may have the suede in various colors. An emerald parure may thus be in the green pouch, while the red pouch holds the jewels that are mainly of rubies. This will not only save hunting around, but will simplify selection if the jewels are left with the purser.
It is wise, on board a liner, to check one’s jewelry with the purser, and to take out each day only the pieces that are to help one shine on that occasion. First day and last day at sea are most informal.
Registering Jewels
All jewels taken on a trip should be listed; a copy of the list should be taken, another copy should be left at home.
Some countries, such as Turkey, have rigid regulations regarding the export of jewels. In such cases—which can be indicated by the travel agent—it is well to register one’s jewelry with the customs official when entering the country. In this way, one can be sure of taking it out.
Similarly, for complete security of this sort throughout a journey, jewelry may be registered with the U.S. Customs before leaving the United States. The customs officer checks the jewelry and the list, keeps a copy and gives one, officially signed, to the traveler. In cases where this precaution was not taken, a person returning to the United States has been unable to prove that she had a certain valuable jewel before leaving the country, and has had to pay duty on it.
Such a list may be helpful in many ways. Every large port has this service available to travelers. In New York, jewels may be officially registered at the Appraiser Stores, at 201 Varick Street, where courteous attention and thoughtful advice are given to all.
Traveling Cautions
Jewelry should never be left in an untended car. Sometimes that “just a moment” away stretches to dangerous minutes.
Jewelry should never be left in checked baggage. Jewelry should not be left in the drawers of the dressing table, nor indeed anywhere in an unguarded room. Every hotel has a safe in which, without charge, guests may keep their valuables.