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Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment

Chapter 99: The Zodiac
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About This Book

A comprehensive survey traces the development of personal jewelry from ancient civilizations through modern times, detailing changes in style, technique, and cultural function. A systematic catalog describes individual gemstones — diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, pearls and many others — with attention to their properties, varieties, and visual effects. A section outlines traditional associations such as birthstones and zodiac links, and discusses seasonal and daily correspondences. Practical chapters offer guidance on selecting, setting, and styling pieces for different facial shapes, hair tones, and occasions, plus notes on metals and basic designs. Numerous illustrations and original designs accompany the text to support both historical understanding and practical use.

19. DIAMOND AND PEARL LEAVES. A set of brooch and earclips suitable for almost all occasions. The delicate, pierced design, signifying the veins of a leaf, has both airiness and depth. When the earclips, similar in shape to the pin, are worn close to the cheek, the pearls add lustre to the skin.

20. PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE. Wild roses of diamonds divide the three strands of pearls in front from the two strands in back. The clasp is hidden in one of the roses. From the collection of Mrs. Cummins Catherwood.

21. PEARL RING. The delicate lustre of a pearl is highlighted by six marquise diamonds.

22. QUEEN GERALDINE OF ALBANIA. The Queen’s coronation tiara, made of diamonds and platinum, shows the royal crest of the “Ram of Skanderbeg” held by a bandeau of Albanian wildflowers. Her diamond and ruby pendant earclips accentuate her violet-blue eyes; her Rivière is of alternating round and baguette diamonds.

23. DIAMOND NECKLACE. A diamond and platinum necklace in a youthful, flower design. The center motif is formed by an emerald-cut diamond. This necklace can, with the aid of a simple device, be worn as a tiara. From the collection of Mrs. Theodore Newhouse.

24. DIAMONDS CAUGHT IN A NET. This earclip and clip ensemble in platinum and diamonds received the Diamond U.S.A. Award.

25. NECKLACE FOR A BRIDE. Motifs of marquise, baguette and round diamonds form a delicate pattern of orange blossoms for this completely flexible necklace. Recipient of the Diamond U.S.A. Award, the original of this design is in the collection of Mme. A. Jaglom.

26, 27. DIAMOND PINCUSHION ORNAMENT. A versatile clip, it is seen at the left gathering a scarf about the hair. It is designed particularly for evening wear. The same clip, right, is worn on a neck chain.

28. MARIANNE OSTIER. To compliment her red hair and fair complexion, the author is wearing a necklace of three strands of emerald beads with two diamond and platinum motifs; matching diamond and emerald earclips; and a diamond and emerald dome-shaped ring.

For less extravagant desires, the gem will exercise its most beneficent influence if worn upon the index or the little finger. The December-born may find a new birth of good fortune with the turquoise.

Short the days, the cold spreads wide;
Be there merry Christmastide!
Blessed things remember.
Old year dying,
New hopes flying:
Turquoise for December.

Signs of the Stars

There are some who regard the month of their birth with less concern than the star, the constellation, under which they were born. They look into the heavens for the beasts that prowl the sky in the outspread forms of the stars. The ancients, and all astrologers since, have discerned a close connection between us in this world and the “animals” in the sky. For, though a few other forms have slipped in, the circle of stars that mark the year is called the zodiac, from Greek zodion, which means little animal, from zoon, animal. The zodiac is the zoo of the sky, whose beasts “beset us round.”

The Zodiac

The round of the year begins with the springtime. Our starting the calendar with January is a new-fangled notion, as can still be seen in the names of the last three months. The names October, November and December mean, respectively, the eighth, the ninth, and the tenth month. The year used to begin with March, the opening of spring.

Jewels and talismans have long been wrought with the signs of the zodiac. It is better, of course, to wear a ring with only the particular sign under which you were born. But the signs have been divided into cycles, and for each of the three cycles within a sign there is a special stone. Wearing this stone, especially with the sign carved upon it, increases the charm tenfold. In this fashion the special powers of the animal that rules the period, instead of opposing, will enter into and re-enforce the virtues of the wearer. Unfortunately, different astrologers have suggested different stones; but one who has never failed me believes in the list that I present, for its own values, each under its cycle and sign.

Aries, the Ram

The signs of the year begin with the ruttish male of springtime, the season of fertility.

March 22 through March 30. Bloodstone.
March 31 through April 9. Amethyst.
April 10 through April 20. Green jasper.

Taurus, the Bull

More deliberately, but with tremendous power, the year surges on.

April 21 through April 30. Lapis lazuli.
May 1 through May 9. Moonstone.
May 10 through May 21. Carnelian.

Gemini, the Twins

Castor and Pollux take the sky, twin sons of Leda and Jupiter as the swan.

May 22 through May 31. Topaz.
June 1 through June 9. Emerald.
June 10 through June 21. Beryl.

Cancer, the Crab

And now the year moves backward toward the dark.

June 22 through July 1. Opal.
July 2 through July 11. Agate.
July 12 through July 23. Crystal.

Leo, the Lion

Patience lashes its tail before the harvest.

July 24 through August 2. Ruby.
August 3 through August 13. Sapphire.
August 14 through August 23. Diamond.

Virgo, the Virgin

As this sign approaches, poets gather their powers. Shakespeare and his rollicking fellows sat in the Mermaid Tavern,

Pledging with content smack
The Mermaid in the Zodiac.

The slow ripening draws toward the ever wondrous birth.

August 24 through September 2. Chrysolite.
September 3 through September 12. Beryl.
September 13 through September 23. Marcasite.

Libra, the Scales

Balance the harvest of the moving year.

September 24 through October 3. Coral.
October 4 through October 13. Opal.
October 14 through October 23. Pearl.

Scorpio, the Scorpion

Armor of the spirit blunts the sting in the tail of the season.

October 24 through November 2. Topaz.
November 3 through November 13. Moonstone.
November 14 through November 22. Lapis lazuli.

Sagittarius, the Archer

Aim well through the dark night, for the dawn shall turn.

November 23 through December 2. Turquoise.
December 3 through December 12. Amethyst.
December 13 through December 22. Diamond.

Capricorn, the Goat

Leap up, heart, with glad resounding as light is born anew!

December 23 through January 1. Onyx.
January 2 through January 11. Garnet.
January 12 through January 20. Chrysolite.

Aquarius, the Water Carrier

Out of me come all things that live beneath the rainbow.

January 21 through January 30. Green jasper.
January 31 through February 9. Emerald.
February 10 through February 19. Crystal.

Pisces, the Fishes

Abundance of untold treasure glints from the depths of the seven seas.

February 20 through February 28-29. Pearl.
March 1 through March 9. Pearl.
March 10 through March 21. Pearl.

As the zodiac sets a ring around the heavens, so the zodiacal ring around one’s finger sets the sign of heaven in one’s fate. If one does not have a special jewel wrought with one’s astrological sign, it may find fit place as a charm on a bangle bracelet.

Cassius, in Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar, may exclaim:

The fault, dear Brutus, is not in our stars,
But in ourselves, that we are underlings—

but every man is born under a lucky star, and borne along with the virtues of the stars’ configurations, if only he can make it shine upon his fortune. It should be remembered (as Milton records in Paradise Lost) that God smiled upon the angels when they came to calculate the stars. If the astrologer has cast one’s nativity, one then may have it fashioned in a jewel.