In the formation of stratified rocks, the planes of stratification, or sides facing each other, are never firmly united together, being formd by depositions from water at different times, so that by subsequent movements they are liable to be sunderd apart. If it now be considerd the enormity of a massive crust of earth resting upon a molten nucleus, it becomes easy to see how intrusions upward of melted matter can take place amongst stratified rocks, and the many undulatory movements of the rocks, as appear in the mining district, only give facility to its accomplishment.
If it be taken for fact, that the quartz of the mining district was intruded in a melted state, it must also be considerd that gold was intruded with it. To account for the friable state of the quartz, moisture must be supposd to have been present, whilst the quartz was in a heated state.
Such a state of things would produce a disintegration of the quartz rock, and set at liberty the imbedded gold, to be carrid downward by gravitation from the hills into ravines, creeks and rivers. To account next, for the difference between massive imbedded gold in quartz rock, and gold disseminated in small particles, needs only to consider the quartz acting as a flux during a state of fusion, to bring the gold together, in the same manner as borax, glass or quartz will do in the artist’s crucible—and the only probable difference between the gold of California and that of Georgia, is, during a melted state of the quartz, a higher degree of heat existed in the quartz of California than that of Georgia, thereby bringing about a more perfect work of separation between the quartz and the gold.
CHAPTER XX.
Three varieties of Gold, with their distinctions, and the reasons given why they are found in separate localities.—Philosophy of running water.
FIRST VARIETY.
The first variety of Gold may be considerd as that which is in dry ravines, or between hills, where there is no running water, except in the time of showers, or the melting of snows.—This variety is calld dry ravine or angular gold, from the fact that whatever be its form, whether in plates or heavy solid masses, or in thin scales,—the edges are all sharp and angular, as nature formd it, having never been rounded off by attrition among moving pebbles or sand, in violent streams of water. The agent of deposit seems to have been mostly that of gravitation during the decomposition of the rocks of the hills containing gold, aided probably by the moistening influences of rains upon the alluvium of the hills, and the general movement of alluvium from higher to lower levels. When once deposited in these situations, it never after receives a secondary removal, except by the hand of the miner.
Dry ravine deposits vary in their advantages for obtaining gold, according to the slope of the hills, through which the ravine passes. At the heads of ravines, where the country is but an undulating one, of moderate hills, and wide-spread valleys, the deposits are generally so disseminated, that but little advantages are gaind, by searching for gold in such situations.
Downward, towards the mouths of ravines, where the hills are in close contiguity, gold is deposited in a line along the center of ravines, varying somewhat in richness, according to the richness of the adjoining hills that deposited it, or the inclination, or basin-shapd appearance of the ravine along its course to its mouth. If ravines are of rapid descent from their sources to their outlets, they mostly contribute their gold to the streams into which they empty themselves.
SECOND VARIETY
The second variety of gold is that which is creek-washd,—the corners and edges of which are rounded off by attrition among moving pebbles and sand of the tertiary deposits of creeks, during the time of freshets. This gold, whether found in plates, or rounded masses, is most of it too heavy to float in running water, being carrid onward to its place of rest, by the united agency of gravitation, moving water, and the tertiary sediment.
The creeks and large rivers receive their gold from the mouths of ravines and hills contiguous to the creeks and rivers.
Gold is found in dry ravines, creeks, and in basins of rivers, weighing several ounces.
In some places along the creeks, the miner finds angular gold deposited in the banks of the streams at the foot of a hill, where it had not slidden down sufficiently far to reach the power of the waters of the stream.
Lost, or erratic gold is sometimes found in the creeks among the creek-washd sand and gravel of the stream, being subject to occasional removals, by subsequent freshets. Such gold seems to be on its way to its final deposit or resting place in situations where subsequent freshets can take no effect upon it for further removal.
Some of this gold is in pieces of several dollars value, but most of it is in fine grains, with a mixture of floating gold.
The fine gold is found in situations above the rock, in deposits of loose sand, where every violent freshet gives it another removal, till it is ultimately carrid downward and deposited in the bars of the large rivers.
THIRD VARIETY.
The third variety of gold is that which may be denominated bar, scale, or floating gold. This gold is found in the tertiary deposits, commonly calld bars of the large streams flowing down from the Neveda range of mountains. Hence the name of bar gold.
Its form is that of very thin scales, which causes it to float in waters that are highly agitated. Hence also, the names of scale, and floating gold.
This gold is seldom found in pieces worth more than a dollar, and is rounded off by attrition, the same as the creek-washd gold.
The several varieties here describd, were the same, only differing in form, in the original rock—but the several agents of deposit, have separated them into separate classes, according to the several capacities of gold to receive the power of the several depositing agents. Hence, the finest floating gold is found lowest down the principal rivers, where it is deposited. Creek-washd gold, being heavy, is never movd very far down the stream, from where it was first deposited into it—and dry ravine gold, having still a little different agent from the others, has never been movd but a very short distance.
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If no more could be said of water, than of other matter of the earth, that it seeks rest by gravitation, in common with the harder portions of matter, but little of its influences could ever be known, to what is now apparent, when viewd in all its bearings. But the fluidity of water, gives it advantages over other matter, in possessing movements, which the latter can never receive—such as lateral motion, capillary attraction, great expansion by heat, aerial passages from rare to dense mediums, thereby giving a new preparation to descend in the form of rain or snow, to restore again its former equilibrium.
Running water, in the light here intended to be explaind, is that which flows down rivers and creeks, from higher to lower levels. Water, like all other substances, will fall perpendicularly from higher to lower levels, if there be no interposing obstacle. But as the beds of streams descend like an inclind plane, from their sources to their mouths, water is forcd over them by the power of gravitation, till it arrives at a level with other surrounding water, and is thereby prevented from descending further. Now in the movement of water, along its downward passage, many considerations arise.
First, if water were made to pass downward thro’ a straight duct or channel, whose lateral and vertical sides were perfectly smooth, so that no friction could exist between the water and the trough or duct that containd it, there would be no eddy formd along its sides, for the water would all of it have a straight forward, and downward movement.
But as the bottom and edges of streams are rough and uneven, very frequent obstructions to water occur. Places so obstructed, are the eddies or partial eddies, so commonly observable in streams of running water.
If an observer stands on the bank of a creek, during a time of high water, where there is much irregularity and unevenness of its bottom, he will see in some places, that the water is nearly motionless—in others, a whirling round of the water,—in others, a retrograde or up stream motion. Under all the circumstances of these several appearances of the water, those places that are the most quiet, approach nearest to the most perfect eddies.
Wherever a bend in a creek occurs, the water, by an opposing bank, is forcd to take a new direction, passing downward, along on its inclind, though uneven bottom. The opposing bank stops a portion of the flowing waters, and causes them to turn back, along the shore of the creek, producing, thereby,—a section of inactive waters, between those of the downward and those of the upward course.
Again, if a lateral stream of water flows into a creek, similar or nearly so in magnitude, the two partially opposing currents form an eddy in the upper angle of the two, and an eddy of less magnitude, is also formd in the angle of the two, on the lower side of the lateral stream.
When water passes over a reef of rock, that traverses entirely across the stream, like a mill dam, the central waters or current cannot well form an eddy immediately below the reef, on account of its impetuous movement—though laterally, towards the banks, partial quietness of the water may exist.
If an obstacle, as a rock or other body, protrude in the current of a creek, so high that water is forcd around it, instead of running over it, an eddy is formd immediately below it, in magnitude according to the size of the obstacle.
CHAPTER XXI.
Mode of searching for Gold in California.
Rock gold, or that which is disseminated in dust or fine particles amongst quartz rock, being so rare in California, but little attention is paid to searching for it in such situations.
Mode of Searching for the First Variety.
The miner, in prospecting for the first variety, or dry ravine gold, selects a situation where, judging from the appearance of the hills, or the slope of the ravine likely to contain gold, it may be found most abundant. He commences his excavation at the center of the ravine, by digging downward till he arrives in most cases at the rock on which the deposit was made, which varies from 2 to 10 or 15 feet in depth. He then prospects outward toward the hills till he arrives at the line of deposit, in case any deposit there exists.
After having found a lead of gold, he excavates upward and downward the ravine, being careful whilst progressing along, to watch the several meanderings of the lead, which are likely to occur even in very short distances.
The miner never need be long at a loss to determine whether there be gold in the place where he is prospecting. If gold exists only in moderate quantities, the pick will generally detect it by occasionally throwing out into view pieces of gold, even when they are quite small. In digging in dry ravines, the miner, after having arrivd within a few inches of the rock where he expects to find gold, tries the earth by washing some of it. If he finds no gold, all of the earth above this place is thrown away as useless. He then continues to dig downward, trying the dirt at short intervals, till he finds gold in his washings. He then is careful to save and wash all of the remainder that lies above the rock, and even to pick off a few inches from the top of some rocks that are loose and open enough to receive gold in some of their crevices, carefully saving and washing the whole.
In some instances in dry ravines, where slate rock occurs, it is decomposd into clay, to a considerable depth, from the vast amount of time elapsd since it has been placd in its present situation. Where such decomposition has occurd, it is useless to penetrate downward into it, in search of gold, as the gold was deposited most generally in a strong iron deposit, previous to the decomposition of the rock. This strong iron deposit is formd of soluble iron, amongst which the gold is mechanically entangld and there held, unless the iron becomes again soluble and leaves the gold to settle down by gravitation into the decomposd rock below. Cases of the second solubility of the iron do not often occur in dry ravines.
Mode of Searching for the Second Variety.
It is more difficult to point out a successful mode of searching for gold of the second variety than either of the other two. Yet notwithstanding the difficulties attending it, some hints may be given, useful to the miner, who has previously become in some degree acquainted with the philosophy of running water and the nature of tertiary deposits.
Those creeks of intermediate size between dry ravines, and the large rivers flowing down from the mountains, though dry or nearly so at some seasons of the year, are powrful in times of heavy rains or the rapid melting of snows, as is evident from the position of some heavy rocks in those streams, which none other agent the powr of a mighty stream could have placd there.
In prospecting for gold in those creeks, the miner may select a position which he judges to be the channel of the creek, or that portion of it where the greatest powr of water is exerted, and commence digging downward, till he arrives at the rock over which various tertiary sediment has flowd, and if he finds the coarse gravel and sand through which he passes, entirely down to the rock, cleanly washd of alluvium, he may fairly conclude that he is in the current of that stream, or where the water passes with greatest force. In those situations, he rarely finds gold, or if he does, it is in sparing quantities.
If upon arriving at the rock, he finds a cross reef or ledge rock, rising one foot or more above the rocks downward stream from his position, he may then prospect outward either way toward the banks of the creek, keeping close to the rock on the lower side, till he arrives a little outward from the current where the waters formd an eddy, as denoted by a mixture of alluvium with the sand and gravel of the creek. In those situations, he may expect to find gold. If he finds gold in such a locality, he may prospect outward toward the banks of the creek, till he has exhausted the whole deposit.
As the tilted rocks of the gold district have universally one course, and as creeks meander across them in nearly every possible direction, there are chances in many places for reefs of rocks to traverse the beds of creeks, directly along their channels. Under such circumstances, but little gold has been deposited. If the miner continues his search along the creek downward, till he arrives at a bend in it, where the water is forcd over such reefs, a little outward from the channel, gold is often found in great abundance—watching carefully whilst excavating the earth in such places, to prospect the lower side of any reefs that may be found there.
If a rock of several feet in hight traverse crosswise the whole width of a creek, so that the only passage for the water of the stream is over it, like the fall of a mill-dam, its force seldom allows gold to be deposited near to it. But a short distance below, where the first quiet waters occurd, gold may be found in lateral and central pockets and little basin-shapd hollows of the rock at the bottom of creek deposits.
Again, if a rock project from any portion of the stream, so high that water cannot run over it but is forcd around it, an eddy is in such case formd immediately below it, in which situation gold may be expected to be found.
In some situations, along some of the creeks, as at Sullivan’s camp, on one of the tributaries of the St. Waukeen, the slate rock, on which the gold was deposited, has since been decomposd to a considerable depth below the tertiary deposit. It would seem that a second solubility of the iron deposits had taken place, and liberated the gold to settle down into the decomposd rock. In such situations, the miner continues to prospect downward, as long as he finds gold abundant enough to reward his labors.
Creek-washd gold is sometimes found higher up in the banks from the current of creeks than the experiencd miner is aware of, but the man acquainted with the appearance of creek-worn pebbles is never at a loss to determine the agent that placd them there—and if, in such situations, he finds rounded, creek worn pebbles, he may conclude that the pebbles and gold also were deposited there by water. In such cases, it becomes the miner to examine the bearing and level of the creek above such place, and see if the creek may not some day have formd an eddy there, and deposited its various contents. If, still higher up in the bank, he finds gold entirely angular, he may conclude that it has slidden down from the hill above.
Another thing to be observd by the miner, relative to creek-gold, is, that in prospecting up and down creeks for gold,—he carefully observe where a level expanse is formd at the foot of a cascade. Near the head of such expanse, between the cascade above, and the next one below, he will find gold more abundant than toward the lower end of such expanse.
In searching for eddies of creeks, where the greatest amount of gold is often deposited, the miner should bear in mind that eddies formd in time of freshets, are most likely to contain the most and heaviest gold, from the fact that much power is requird to move heavy gold, and tertiary sediment.
Mode of searching for the Third Variety.
To obtain a knowledge of prospecting for bar gold, requires also a knowledge of the philosophy of running waters—yet gold is prospected with less difficulty in the bars of large rivers than creek-gold.
As the bar gold is very light and thin, it is subject to the various freaks of running water, in which it is mechanically suspended, during times of freshets. In prospecting therefore, for gold along the bars of rivers, the principal thing to be attended to, is the formation of eddies along those streams, which, if the edges of the water were straight and unbroken, through the length of a bar, would also be formd along in straight lines but a short distance from shore, or outer edge of the water. These eddies are the intermediate line between the downward current of the stream, and the retrograde or upward movement of the water along the shore, where water is nearly in a quiescent state.
But as the edges of streams are rough and uneven, the eddies are also formd uneven. Hence, a deposit of gold in those eddies, is not straight, but varies according to the unevenness of the shore.
Such a line of quiet water, is the only deposit of bar gold which is likely to be richest, near the heads of bars.
The best method of prospecting for bar gold, is to commence an excavation, a short distance out from the water of the river, near the head of a bar, digging downward but a short distance among the sand and gravel, occasionally washing the earth.—And if gold is found, progress toward and from the river, till the richest deposit is found. Then change the course upward and downward the river, and continue to prospect as long as gold is abundant enough to pay for working.
As this gold is subject to subsequent removals by every succeeding freshet, it never gets deeply embedded in any solid tertiary deposits. Hence, it is most usually found among loose sand and gravel, near the surface.
This search should be made when the water of rivers is quite low, which time is also best in searching for the other two varieties.
If along a line of bar deposit, a rock is found protruding high—gold may be expected more abundant immediately below it, than elsewhere.
To those searching for gold along the bars of rivers, it was at first, not a little surprising to learn that but little gold was deposited toward the center of the stream—but on reflection,—it will be seen that the water is too violent to admit floating gold to come to rest in such situations.
CHAPTER XXII.
Cost of transporting Goods from the several embarkadaries to the mines—Price of Merchandize in the mines—Cost of Provisions—Price of Medical Services—Administration of Justice—Manner of spending the Sabbath.
From the two principal embarkadaries upon the St. Waukeen and Sacramento rivers of California, provisions and mining implements are transported to the seat of mining operations at exorbitant costs.
On passing up to the mines from a place calld Stocton, upon the St. Waukeen, our company hird a teamster to carry our goods and implements, for which we paid him, for one wagon load, more than fourteen hundred dollars, rated at 30 cents per pound. Afterwards during the summer, goods were carrid on pack mules at a somewhat less cost. It may also be added, that conveyances were got up for the accommodation of passengers between Stocton and the mines, a distance of 70 or 80 miles, at a charge of 2 ounces of gold dust for each passenger, which, according to its value in California, is worth $32.
From Sacramento city, the present head of navigation upon the Sacramento river, similar prices are chargd for the transportation of goods into that quarter of the mining district.
The price of merchandize at the mines is quite dissimilar to prices in the States. Tea, best, per pound, is worth from $2 to $4. Common sizd frying pans at $8. Tin pans, a large size, at $8 apiece. India rubber elastic cots at $50 to $75 each. Calf-skin shoes, per pair, at $8, and boots at $16. An ordinary article of ax-helve at $3. Lumber, scarce, at $2 per ft. Pint tin cups at $1.50 each. Coarse sheeting, 50 cents per yard.
The cost of provisions ranges somewhat as follows. Flour is worth, per pound, from 75 cts. to $1. Pork, per pound, $1. Beans are sold by the pound, at $1 per pound. Rice, per lb., 62½ cents. Light bread, per loaf of one pound, $1. Beef, 25 cents the pound. Potatoes are sold by the pound, at 50 cents. Green peas preservd in air-tight jars, per pint, $4. Onions, per pound, $2. Public meals, $2.
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Medical services are likewise high, in the mining district. Each visit, near to patient, is 1 oz. of gold, or $16. If a week’s attendance is requird, no reduction upon each visit is made. For extracting a tooth, $10 is chargd. Very extravagant prices are chargd for distant visits.
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In relation to the administration of justice in the mining district, wherever a sufficient assemblage of miners exists to be thought worthy of judicial attention, an alcalda or justice of the peace is appointed, who presides over the judiciary department, with almost as unlimited sway as an emperor. And although in addition to an alcalda, a sheriff is appointed to a permanent office, and cases are almost universally tried by a jury, which is summond by the sheriff, yet they are generally selected of a stamp congruous to the feelings of the alcalda. From the decisions, no appeal can ever be made, whether right or wrong. I would likewise remark, that decisions are very apt to be made against the party having the most gold, and especially if one of the parties is rather low in circumstances. Such a state of judicial dispensation may seem somewhat objectionable, at first thought, but when we reflect, that where no legislation exists, lynch law is the only mode of dispensing justice, to which men can well resort, and this is so terrific in its consequences of criminal justice, that rogues tremble in view of its administration. Much more civility and less theft exists in the mines than might at first be supposd.
The costs of legal services may be arrangd somewhat as follows: Alcaldas, for each suit, 1 oz. To the sheriff, 1 oz. To each juryman, half an ounce of gold,—and legal pleadings are often enormous, even to $100 for the service of an hour or two.
The several foregoing costs of transportation, price of merchandize, costs of provisions and medical services, are very often increasd or diminishd, according to location, distance, or difficulty of transporting, and also the season of the year.
* * * * * * * *
There is a consideration, likewise, in relation to spending the Sabbath amongst the gold mines of California.
The reader may greatly wonder what is the mode of spending the Sabbath there, when I say to him, that the Sabbath appears as silent as the house of mourning. Seldom is a man seen with his implements in his hands, laboring for gold. All around is quiet, except now and then a few horsemen are passing from one little town to another, for purposes best known to themselves. What, then, is the wonderful employment or idle condition of miners upon that day? Alas! every public tent through the whole mining region is resorted to for gambling. In each of these tents, stands from one to four or six monte tables, around which, miners of all classes assemble to risk their fortunes. These tables are arrangd with small or large sums of money, by one or more persons, according to the ability of the person or persons that establish them. The sums of money so arrangd are calld banks, or monte banks. On opposite sides of the table, sit two men, who manage the affairs of the bank, and deal the cards by which the fate of bettors is determind. This game at cards is carrid on from morning till night, and often through the following night till twilight breaks upon them, with the stillness and quiet of a religious assemblage.
DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA
CHAPTER XXIII.
Alta or Upper California With respect to Agriculture—Climate and Health of Alta California—Navigation of its two principal Rivers—Some of the principal Towns of Alta California—Its Bays and Harbors.
It can hardly be imagind, how the business of agriculture can be carrid on successfully in a country circumstancd like Upper California. In the mountainous portions, grain can not do well without resort to irrigation, and this, from extreme cost, can not well be done on an extensive scale.
The low country of the great valley of the St. Waukeen and Sacramento, is not unfrequently inundated a month or two, during the latter part of the winter, which renders passages from one part of the valley to another by land, entirely impracticable, and although along the borders of those two large rivers, and to some distance outward from them, there is a good soil, yet it is well known to farmers, that wheat will not live but a few days, entirely immersd in water—so that the wheat crop could never be depended upon as a safe investment.
Along the borders of these rivers, in some places, the native grasses are of a tolerable growth. Outward toward the base of the mountain, the earth becomes so dry during the summer, that vegetation is entirely dried up. It however arrives at maturity, at a stinted growth. I have seen native oats growing upon the plains of the great valley. These also are not very enormous in size. Notwithstanding, they for awhile furnish good grazing for the roaming cattle of the country, upon which, and the short bunch grass growing upon some of the hills, they become very fat during the summer. But as the grasses of the country are of so stinted a growth, farmers cannot live in crowded communities, as in the States, but at distances of from 10 to 20 miles apart. Locations of this kind are calld ranches, or rancheros, and farmers so living often own several hundred head of cattle and horses.
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The climate of California, of which I shall next speak, varies considerably in different parts of the country, according to its distance from the ocean or from the Neveda mountains, or the unevenness of the surface of the country.
In the mountain district of the Neveda range, the climate was describd in the geography of that portion of California.
Lower down and westward, along the great valley, the climate is milder, through the whole of the year. I believe the large rivers of the valley are not frozen during the winter, and the weather in summer is quite warm. Thus far from the axis of the Neveda mountains eastward, to the two great rivers westward, during the summer season, the sky is serene, and the stars and planets shine with great splendor.
No dew falls in that part hitherto describd, during the hottest season of the year, and travelers may lie upon the ground without exposure from the unhealthiness of a damp ground and a moist atmosphere.
Farther outward, and along the coast, the country is much of the time during the year, coverd with fogs, which render it unpleasant, and in some measure unhealthy. The town of San Francisco, most of the year, is envelopd in a thick fog, during much of the night and the following day, till 10 or 11 o’clock, after which time the wind becomes of sufficient strength to clear away the fog, which often renders the remainder of the day unpleasant. This town, from the almost continued dampness of the atmosphere, and the unavoidable use of mineralizd water, can hardly be considerd a healthy place. Dysentery and fever seems to be the prevalent disease.
I had nearly forgotten an idea which I now recollect to have heard, relating to the dryness and purity of the atmosphere of California. It has been said that the flesh of animals may be hung up in the open atmosphere, till it becomes perfectly preservd by drying, without salt, and during such process, no annoying insects ever disturb it—and also, that a man would never die there, except by being dried up.
It is true, that the Spaniards have a mode of preserving the flesh of the ox, by cutting it into very small strips, and hanging it upon strings cut from the raw hide, where it is exposd to the heat of the sun. In this way, meat could be preservd in any of the States, but if it be left in large masses, and so circumstancd that any part of it is kept from drying immediately on the outside, the green fly, an insect common to that country as well as the States, is presently found to be a loathsome intruder.
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When I left the mining district for the valley, on my way to San Francisco, on the 13th of October, I saw eight or ten vessels lying at Stocton, and at the head of Suisan bay, three or four more, and at the head of Pablo bay, six or seven more. These, with ten or twelve lying at Sacramento city, and as many more scatterd along the two rivers and in the several bays, added to about 130 which I counted in the harbor of San Francisco, on my arrival there, will make about 175 vessels within the country of California. Most of the vessels lying in the harbor of San Francisco, were inactive, for want of help to work them.
The business of transportation upon the two rivers, St. Waukeen and Sacramento, I believe to be as profitable as any that is attended to in California. When I left, two small steamers were constantly plying between San Francisco and Sacramento city, and another was being put together at Suisan bay, for the navigation of the St. Waukeen. More busines at present is done upon the rivers by launches, a small vessel of only one mast, than by any other vessel. These are more easily managd than large ships, along the intricate windings of those extremely crooked rivers, but so soon as a sufficient number of steamers can be obtaind for the business of the rivers, other means of transportation will in a great degree cease.
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That portion of Alta California, where at present men’s conceptions are most vivid, and where at every corner, pass or avenue, the lively turn of the foot is seen, and where men’s views and feelings to-morrow will not be what they are to-day, and where also the sight of the golden streams from the Neveda mountains produce electrical shocks upon all persons, whose hearts are tund to chant the new and animating lays of later scenes of better days, and where nearly all of the “Elephant,” in his varied and portentous displays, is seen—may be comprisd within the small tract of country, over which the waters of the two principal rivers, Sacramento and St. Waukeen, flow. Along these waters, are several newly laid out towns, together with some of ancient Mexican date.
San Francisco is situated upon a side hill, on the south side of the bay of the same name. Its inhabitants were reckond, on the first of November, ’49, at 25,000, though six months before there were scarcely 5000. Such has been the rapid progress of San Francisco. The town is 10 or 12 miles within the entrance of the bay from the ocean.
At the head of Pablo bay, is a newly laid out town, calld Benetia. It lies on the north side of the strait between Pablo bay and Suisan bay. This strait will doubtless bear the name of Benetia. The town will ultimately be a pleasanter one than San Francisco. One mile east of Benetia, upon the same side of the strait, the United States have establishd an arsenal.
At the head of Suisan bay, is a new town calld Western New York. This town lies on the south side of the waters of the bay, upon, a flat piece of ground, at the lower confluence of the Sacramento and St. Waukeen. The delta between the upper and lower confluence, is about 20 miles in length. New York, situated as it is, will command the business of both rivers, and if it is lucky enough to avoid being inundated once a year, will ultimately be a place of considerable importance.
At the present head waters of navigation for the St. Waukeen, upon a slough about three miles distant from the river, is a town calld Stocton, the principal embarkadary for the south division of the mining district. This town is situated on low, flat ground, which rises but little above the waters of the river, at lowest stages. When the country around is overflowd with water, this town must necessarily suffer much inconvenience therefrom.
The last town which I shall here mention, is Sacramento city. Like Stocton, it is situated at the present head waters of the Sacramento river. It serves as the principal embarkadary for the northern mining region, as Stocton does for the south, and from this place, provisions and implements are carrid to all parts of the northern mining region. The place is more than half as large as San Francisco, and is fast improving.
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Before closing the subject of California, a few remarks concerning its bays and harbors may not be uninteresting.
The Bay of San Francisco is nearly surrounded by high hills, with a narrow entrance from the ocean, and now and then an island is interspersd, to hide the scenery of its waters from the hills contiguous to the town of San Francisco. It is large enough to contain the shipping of the whole world, and its waters are not of inconvenient depth for anchorage.
Next above this, lies Pablo bay, or Bay of St. Paul. It is inferior in size, but ships can anchor in any part of it, and lie at all times with a tolerable degree of safety.
At the head of Pablo bay, commences Suisan bay, which extends upward to the delta that divides the two rivers, Sacramento and St. Waukeen. The waters of this bay are so shoal that vessels have difficulty in sailing over it, except directly along its channel.
The distances across the several bays are as follows. From San Francisco to Pablo bay, is about 10 miles, and through Pablo bay to Suisan bay, is 40 miles, and Suisan bay differs but little from 50 miles in length, from Benetia to New York, at the head of the bay.
HOMEWARD BOUND.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Scenes on the Pacific Ocean.—Difficulty of reaching the harbor of Panama, by sail ships.—Arrival at Panama.—The town of Panama, and its inhabitants.—Passage across the isthmus, to Chagres.
After a stay in California of a little more than five months, I took my departure for home by way of the ocean, on board a sail ship bound for Panama, the 21st day of October, 1849. As there is often a difficulty in getting out of the bay of San Francisco into the ocean, with sail ships, on account of a strong wind that is much of the time blowing through the straits eastward from the ocean, and the dense fog that envelops the sea, at the entrance of the bay, we were detaind nearly two days before we could pass the straits into the ocean.
Our passage from San Francisco to Panama, was accomplishd in 40 days, a distance of about 4000 miles, tho’ along the coast, it would not much exceed 3500. This passage was considerd by the master of the vessel, as expeditious as is common upon waters of as little wind as is not unfrequently witnessd upon the Pacific ocean.
Whilst on my passage from Oregon last spring, to California, I saw a short distance from ship, a whale, in an attempt at running a race with us. He kept along in a parallel course with the ship, one or two miles, and then left us. Ship-masters say they will outrun the fleetest ship.
But we saw on our passage from San Francisco to Panama, but few of the monsters of the deep, so often describd in history and romance, although this coast is the place to which whalemen resort. At a distance from ship, we saw now and then a few whales, spouting the briny waters high into the atmosphere—and then again, a shoal of porpoises surrounding the ship—some of which, our sailors caught with their hooks and lines.—The flesh of the porpoise is of a reddish color, and coarse, but tolerably pleasant to eat.
The dolphin is a small fish of only two or three feet in length—and has the power of changing its color. The flesh is said to be poisonous in some degree, and is therefore not good for food. These fish are shy and hard to take, except by stratagem.
Our captain is an old whaleman, and his vessel was fitted out from Nantucket, for that purpose. On our way south,—he one day took 4 or 5 men into a whale-boat, and started out from the vessel in pursuit of some black fish we saw at a short distance from us. We had not watchd him long before we saw him returning with a large black fish in tow of his whale boat. He presently came along side, and down the halyards were let—to haul the monster upon deck,—and in a few minutes, was seen stretchd athwart the ship, a giant fish, weighing about 2500 pounds,—out of which, was obtaind 4 barrels of oil.
This was a specimen of whaling on a small scale. The fish here caught, was a species of whale, and was organizd similarly. A few inches from the end of his snout, upon the top of it, was a valve, about 3 inches square, out of which, the animal spouts.
After tossing and rolling about upon the wide Pacific, till I was utterly tird of my situation, we at length arrivd at the outer confines of Panama bay, on Monday, Nov. 26. Although this bay is more than 100 miles wide at the entrance, yet it is so situated, that most of the year, there is a wind from the Caribbean sea, blowing across the continent outward from the harbor of Panama, which renders an entrance into it slow and difficult. We, however, after tacking the ship the tedious number of 10 times, arrivd in safety at the harbor of Panama, on the evening of Friday, Nov. 30.
Our arrival at Panama, was an epoch of satisfaction to me, as well as my fellow passengers, after having experienced so many days of monotony upon the ocean.
The anchorage for ships is inconveniently situated from town, being nearly 3 miles distant.
After having arrivd at the town, and wanderd over it somewhat, I found it to be located upon a rock, formd of successive layers of apparent lava. But as my opportunity of examining it was scanty, I could not well determine its character. The town wears a dilapidated appearance, from its extreme age, and a want of attention to repairs. Many of the houses are large,—and three stories high, with broken down roofs, and with grass growing out of every corner, and upon the roofs. They have the oddity of being built partly of bricks, and partly of stone, intermingld together in the body of the walls. They have windows arrangd similar to windows in houses of the states, but without sash or glass, being left entirely open. No chimneys are built to any of the houses, and cooking is done with small portable furnaces, or a fire is built upon the ground, between 2 small rocks set up edgewise, so as to contain the fuel. In the cooking apartments, an arrangement is made for the escape of the smoke at the top of the room, so that it may not communicate with their dining or sitting rooms.
The town, previous to the gold excitement of California, was in a great measure, vacant of inhabitants, and large and commodious rooms may have been hird for the small sum of 12½ cents per day. The streets are mostly narrow, but they are tolerably well pavd, and are washd nearly every day for ¾ of a year, from the all copious fountain of the heavens above. No drays or coaches are seen to mar the beauty of the streets, and grass is seen growing even in the middle of the streets, and along its sidewalks. This was once a populous town, but now—like most other Spanish towns along the western coast of America, is seen the marks of imbecility, indifference and decay. They have a small market or two, to which all classes indiscriminately, resort for their daily support. The town next to the bay is walld around, upon which, a few cannon were placd for its former defense.
The inhabitants speak the Spanish language. They are cleanly in dress, plain in their manners, and familiar in their conversation. They are unassuming in their style, and liberal in their hospitalities.
I am inclind to think the character of the American Spanish has hitherto been misrepresented. During my stay in California, I was located among that people, and I ever found them willing to part with half their last meal to feed a hungry man. Although the Spanish ladies are almost universally neat washers, yet their is a want of taste in their dress, it being loosely, though not fantastically adjusted about their persons. In their behavior, their sitting and reclining postures have an unchaste appearance, though this may arise from want of proper training.
The width of the isthmus from Panama across to the bay of Darien, is not much different from 50 miles—but by the way of the old Panama road to Chagres, the distance is about 64 miles. Through this route the present emigration passes.—From Panama, there is a portage of about 24 miles, to Cruses, a town of about 150 houses, at the present head waters of the Chagres river. There is also, another town of similar importance, about 5 miles below, upon the Chagres river, calld Gorgona. To this town, also, there is a road which leads off from the Cruses road about half way distant from Panama to Cruses.
The present Cruses road is probably of as ancient date as the town of Panama. It has once been pavd, and a tolerably good road for pack animals to pass, but too narrow to admit of carriages. Across the portage, the country is uneven, though not mountainous, and much of the way, the road is cut through hills of soft rock. At present, the pavement is almost all broken up, and the road is muddy and disagreeable to pass, much of the year, even with pack animals. Most of the property that now passes that road, is carrid upon the backs of native citizens,—though horses or mules can be hird at either end of the rout for the transportation of property.
The houses of Cruses and Gorgona, and also a few scattering houses along the portage, are made of Bamboo, a reed which grows very tall, but small in size. These reeds are set upon the ends, and firmly crowded together to the size of the requird wall. At the corners of these walls, are set posts of sufficient strength to support the roofs, which are thatchd of the cocoa leaf. After the roofs are completed, no rains can penetrate them. The slender appearance of these houses, seems to be a proof that no tornados or heavy winds exist along the isthmus,—and some families live in tenements of nothing but a roof placd upon posts in the form of a Dutch barrack.
The remainder of the way from Cruses to Chagres, is down the Chagres river,—a stream of considerable importance in time of high water, though not of sufficient depth to admit of the navigation of any but small class steamboats, in times of common stages of the river.
The country across the isthmus truly indicates a want of yankee enterprise. No agricultural interests are resorted to for the support of the inhabitants. All appears drear, and the country is thickly coverd with low, leafy kinds of timber, heavily laden much of it, with vines of various kinds, pending their branches near to the ground. Now and then, however, along the way is seen a small opening or lawn, where a few cattle are grazing—and these of the thriftiest kind,—indicating the advantages which might be derivd from the improvement of the soil upon the isthmus.