When I took up my Journal to add a few items, I found the above had been written by some wag, in my absence. He was disposed to ridicule my description of the felicity of which I boasted. Our boys are rather mischievous, and I must confess that I felt rather waggish myself when I made the boast of our possessing Eden-like pleasures. The continuation of my narrative pleased me so well that I consented to let it remain as it was written. Our mischievous feeling and manner of expression is the most innocent way in which we can relieve ourselves, for we privates are suffering many privations while some of our officers refuse to speak to each other. I am glad, however, that our troubles are so merrily turned into ridicule, the best way sometimes to treat them. We are not destitute of sport however—many amusing scenes occur among us, debating societies are formed among the soldiers in which the most absurd questions are dilated upon with a vehemence and mock seriousness truly laughable. A breakfast of coffee without sugar, some very poor beef soup, and onions sliced up with parched corn, made a better meal for us to-day than we have had for some days past. Yesterday I traded off two needles to the Spanish girls for six ears of corn and some onions, it was a trade decidedly profitable for both parties. In company with our first Lieutenant, his brother, William White, Dr. Dunlap, and a number of others, I went up on a high peak of the Rocky Mountains. We had been there but a few minutes when it commenced snowing. We kindled a large fire, and amused ourselves by listening to the reverberations of sound produced by our Lieutenant’s revolver, who fired six rounds. Becoming thirsty, we searched and found water in the crevice of the rock close to the edge of the precipice. It was too far below the surface for us to drink by stooping over, and William White proposed to throw in gravel, in order to raise the water, reminding me of one of Æsop’s fables. We followed his advice and the water was soon forced to rise high enough for our purpose. The snow increasing, we came down and made another fire in a large hollow of the rock, where all but myself sat down to cards. It was an amusement that I did not relish, and I sought my gratification in loosing the rocks and rolling them down the side of the mountain, which is at least a thousand feet above the level of our camp.
29th.—To-day, Charles Perkins and myself took our guns and proceeded down the river several miles in search of game. We fired at several flocks of wild geese and ducks, but it only scared them further off. We passed several Spanish houses on our return. When we reached the camp we found the soldiers at different employments, some playing cards, and others making articles to sell to the natives. A Mr. Hatfield was engaged in the manufacture of a grindstone to trade to the Spaniards for corn and beans. These, with onions, are the only vegetables they grow.
30th.—The mountains are covered with snow, and, after raining hard all night, this morning it is clear and cold. We made the best preparations we could to send the wagons back to Santa Fe for provisions, as late last night, our second Lieutenant returned, after an absence of five days, and brought news that we are to take up our winter quarters in this dreadful region. There seems to be very little likelihood of our going south at all. The officers went in search of other quarters to-day.
31st.—We had a heavy fall of rain last night, which improved into a snow-storm before morning. I slept very uncomfortably, as a high wind from the north had full sweep in the door of our tent. We were inspected at 11 o’clock, and carried through all the evolutions of the drill. After the parade we could scarcely keep warm, though wrapped in our blankets, and crowded around the fire. Yesterday one of our beef cattle died from starvation. The Mexicans came down and took it off to their habitations. We might have made a speculation by selling it but did not think of it.
Sunday, November 1st.—Several of my mess are going up the mountains to look for their horses. I offered a friend $5 (should I ever again possess that sum) to search for mine. I read aloud in my Testament to some of the boys, while others sat apart, or pitched quoits. At night a Spaniard came in camp with a fiddle, and played a number of tunes which so exhilarated my poor half frozen companions that they united in a dance which they kept up till a late hour.
2nd.—Some Taos flour, coarsely ground in the little native mills on the Rio Grande, badly baked in the ashes, and some coffee without sugar, now comprise our only sustenance. Between meals, however, we parch some corn, which we now and then procure of the natives in exchange for buttons, needles, or any little matter we can spare. At 9 o’clock, we struck our tents, and marched down the river two miles to a deserted Spanish house nearly in ruins. The inhabitants were murdered by the Navihoe Indians. This is the place where we are to take up our winter quarters. I can scarcely describe this wretched den. The soldiers have looked in and they have become very dissatisfied. They were told by the Captain to erect their tents inside the wall. All the houses in this region having that protection. We could not sleep in the house on account of the offensive odor. The tent was much more comfortable.
3d.—As soon as our breakfast of beef soup and coffee was over, some of the men were appointed to scrape and clean the house. I with several others was sent to the mountains to cut and haul wood. After walking two miles, we procured a load of green pine, which does not grow here more than half the usual size. On the return, I thought I would take a near cut to our camp alone. I turned into a foot-path, which led me to the top of a high mountain. Here I could see our quarters, though a long distance off. I took a direct course, and soon arrived at camp, where I found our boys writing down a vocabulary of Spanish words. They have become very erudite of late.
4th.—All this day we did nothing but write down words from the language spoken by the people, who, from their complexion, appear to be a mixture of the Spanish and Indian races. We made a pretty good dictionary among us.
5th.—This day is very unpleasant. It is raining hard. At 4 o’clock, our first Lieutenant, Mr. White, returned from Santa Fe. He brought bad news. He could get no provisions, except one-fourth rations of flour, and one and a half barrels of mess pork. But notwithstanding all this, our boys are still very lively.
6th.—We had great labor to-day in procuring fuel sufficient for our present purpose, and the prospect of a long and severe winter before us makes our situation rather unenviable.
7th.—On short allowance yesterday and to-day, a little bread, (i. e. two pints for six men,) some fried beef, and coffee without sugar.
Sunday, 8th.—Although the morning was cloudy and cold, I walked with twenty others down to Abique to church. On arriving we went into the priest’s room. He very politely invited us to be seated, and then commenced asking all kinds of questions about the United States. He seemed to take great interest in teaching us the Spanish language. He made us repeat after him, many long and hard words. We sat two hours with him and then went in church, where a large congregation was assembled. In a few minutes our priest made his appearance, dressed in gold lace, and ascended the pulpit, while all present fell on their knees. The music of various instruments now commenced, the priest the meanwhile, drinking sundry glasses of wine. The people remained on their knees till the music ceased, when all retired.
It was noised among the soldiers that a fandango would take place in the evening. Some of us went in to inquire of the priest, who informed us that the fandango was to be at a village some miles further off. In a little while, a Mexican guide was hired to escort us. After walking a mile we came to a river, when this Spanish fellow, very quietly sat down to pull off his shoes, and told all who were in favor of wading the stream to follow his example. Eight of the boys immediately commenced stripping to cross, declaring that nothing should disappoint them from attending a fandango. As I had a bad cold, with some others, who felt no inclination to wet their feet, I returned to our quarters.
9th.—All this day in the mountains cutting wood.
10th.—I went with several others to search for lost horses. We had not gone far when to my great joy I found mine, which had not been seen since we left Santa Fe. We heard volleys of musketry in the direction of our camp, and were at a loss to understand the meaning, till on our return, we learned that a dog had been buried with the honors of war. This poor dog had been a great favorite with our Captain and all the company; he was most foolishly shot by a soldier on guard last night. The man was made to dig his grave, and will be detailed on extra duty as a punishment, the Captain being much exasperated. This evening I, with four others took rations for five days, in order to drive the horses down the river to graze. Late at night, we reached a Spanish village, where we stopped. A mile from that place, a fandango was to come off, and the ladies of the place were preparing for the dance. They were nicely equipped in their best finery, and the soldiers were engaged to accompany them. Not being very desirous of attending the fandango, I preferred to remain and try to get some rest, of which I was very much in need. The party was soon prepared, and off they started, leaving me behind to cook supper and arrange matters for their comfort when they should return. I browned the coffee, fried the beef, made the bread, and having all things in readiness, I drank a cup of coffee and laid down to rest on a mattress placed on the floor. As far as the thing I laid on was concerned, I was comfortable enough; the mattress was a luxury; but I could not sleep; the reasons were various. I was lying in a house, when I was accustomed to dwell in tents;—my quarters were divided between myself several donkies and mules and two small children—the odor of the donkies was not the most agreeable, nor their noise very harmonious; the children knew their mother was out and did their best at crying. The woman had gone to the fandango, where I hope she enjoyed better music than that which she left for the lulling of my sensibilities into sweet slumbers.
11th.—Our soldiers did not return from the fandango till 3 o’clock this morning, and I was appointed to get breakfast while they slept. I had considerable trouble in accomplishing this service, as the girls crowded around the fire, and I had frequently to pass the frying pan over the naked feet of a pretty girl who was sitting near me. In company with a young Spaniard, who was exceedingly agreeable and polite, I went out after breakfast to kill wild geese. We walked a long distance, and returned unsuccessful.
12th.—I find the family residing here, very agreeable. I was invited, and almost forced to accompany them to a fandango last night (for they do little else but dance.) All on horseback, the married men mounted behind their wives, we started. A little baby in its mother’s arms becoming troublesome, one of our men, who said he was a married man, most gallantly rode up, and offered to carry the little creature. The mother thankfully resigned it to his charge. There was more pleasure in the idea of enjoyment at the fandango than in taking care of a cross child. When we arrived at Abique, an old man invited us to partake of his hospitality;—an invitation we gladly accepted. We went in accordingly, and after all were seated on the floor in the posture of a tailor, a large earthen vessel was placed before us containing pepper sauce and soup; and a few tortillas, (a thin paste made of corn rubbed between flat stones.) The sauce caused my mouth to burn to a blister. The people are very fond of condiments, and become so accustomed to them that what will burn a stranger’s mouth has no effect upon theirs. After all was over, we went across the street to attend the fandango. From the crowd, I should judge it was high in favor with all classes of the community. Some of the performers were dressed in the most fantastic style, and some scarcely dressed at all. The ladies and gentlemen whirled around with a rapidity quite painful to behold, and the music pealed in deafening sounds. I took my seat near a pretty girl, and every time she leaned on my shoulder, which she did pretty often, her beau would shake his head in token of his displeasure, and showing his jealous disposition. I left the place about 10 o’clock, and returned to our quarters.
13th.—We visited our camp to-day at the Spanish ruins. The Captain and officers were glad to see us, especially as we had good news in relation to the horses. We had them in charge, and exhibited them to our comrades as the trophies of our success. On our return, we killed two wild geese and four rabbits, which we found a great help to our stock of provisions which was then very low.
14th.—I was left alone with the Spaniards to-day, while our boys were attending to the horses. My Spanish friends are very courteous, but there is little to relieve the monotony of our intercourse, as from my ignorance of the language I am unable to converse with them.
15th.—This morning we had one of our wild geese stewed for breakfast, which we had without coffee, and almost without bread. After breakfast I started to camp to draw provisions of some kind. When at camp I concluded to remain there.
16th.—I was told by the Sergeant to-day, that there was no flour to issue. He referred me to the Captain, who directed young Bales and myself to a mill some distance off, where we procured 60lbs. of unsifted Taos flour very coarsely prepared. With this, we returned, and in a few minutes nearly the whole was appropriated to the use of the half-starved soldiers. A very small portion of this brown flour fell to our share. This evening we are without food, or nearly so. Martin Glaze, an old veteran, who has seen service, and belongs to my mess, got a few ears of corn and parched it in a pan, with a small piece of pork to make it greasy. When it was done, we all sat around the fire and ate our supper of parched corn greased with fat pork. The weather to-night is extremely cold.
17th.—Awoke early this morning and found it snowing very hard. At 10 o’clock I went to our first Lieutenant’s quarters. He was engaged in appraising some cattle which are pressed into our service, and for which the natives were to be paid. A bull has just been killed, and the offals are being greedily devoured by our poor fellows. At 11 o’clock to-day our third Corporal died, having been sick with camp fever and inflammation of the brain several weeks. At 3 o’clock his grave was dug and the poor fellow was wrapped in his blanket—and buried without a coffin. To-night there are several of our men sick with the measles, supposed by our Surgeon to have been brought from Santa Fe.
18th.—The snow four inches deep—clear and very cold—another grave dug to-day for a member of the Livingston company, making five who have died since we have been out here. They are all buried near the mountain, where poor Johnson was laid.
20th.—The past two days have been employed in procuring wood, which is hard labor; but we do not complain as our fare is improved by the addition of bean soup and coffee.
21st.—A court martial was held this morning to try our fourth Sergeant, who has said something derogatory to the character of our Orderly. After the court adjourned, we were ordered to form a line. Our first Lieutenant then stood in front and read the proceedings of the court. The decision was that our fourth Sergeant be reduced to the ranks, for slander. It was ordered that if any man, or men should thereafter bring false charges against the officers, he or they, should be sent with a file of soldiers to Santa Fe, and tried at head quarters, &c. The company was then dismissed. Several of my mess concluded to run as candidates for the vacant place. They went among the crowd with tobacco and parched corn, electioneering. I was placed on guard at 9, and had to stand till 11 o’clock.
Sunday, 22d.—A gloomy Sabbath morning—I felt badly, but concluded to go to church at Abique. As soon as the ceremonies were ended I went in the priest’s room in company with my old friend Capt. Markle and several officers. After sitting awhile, a servant brought in a dish of refreshments, consisting of pies and wine. Placing the glass to my lips I discovered it to be Taos whiskey, as strong as alcohol. A piece of the pie, I thought might take away the unpleasant taste, so I crowded my mouth full, and found—alas! it was composed of onions, a dreadful fix indeed, for a hungry man, Taos whiskey and onion pie!—the very thought of the mess makes my mouth burn. When I returned to camp I found nearly every individual busily engaged at cards. Elias Barber, a messmate, was taken sick with the measles. The disease, is now raging among the troops.
23d.—We had great trouble in procuring fuel to-day. We had to travel far up the mountain for it, and it is exceedingly difficult to cook with it out of doors in the deep snow. It fell to my lot to make the bread, and I had much ado to-night, to make the mass stick together. I felt more than usual fatigue after the parade.
24th.—Elias Barber is very sick to-day. He spent a wretched night last night in a thin cotton tent. The wind is blowing on him constantly, while the measles are out very thick. I went to the Captain this morning and informed him of the situation of the young man. He told me if I could procure a place in the house, he might be brought in. I therefore went and after making preparations to move him, I was told that no such thing should be done. I then tried to get an extra tent to place over the one we are sleeping in, and even this was denied me. The poor fellow is lying out of doors, exposed to all the inclemency of this cold climate. And last night it was so cold that the water became frozen in our canteens. The Surgeon appears interested, but it is all to no purpose—nothing further is done for the comfort of the sufferer. May the Lord deliver me from the tender mercies of such men!
25th.—I felt quite unwell all day to-day. I suffered much from a severe attack of diarrhœa. Our lodgings are very uncomfortable. I went down to the Rio Grande to get water, and found it nearly frozen over. A great mortality prevails among the troops who are dying from exposure and disease.
26th.—I was very much engaged all day, in nursing poor Barber. He is worse to-day, the measles having disappeared from the surface. I sat by him the livelong night and listened to his delirious ravings, and I felt sad to think I had no means of relief. At 4 o’clock this morning the Captain came, and finding him so ill, brought out a tent to cover the one he laid in.
27th.—Last night, my messmate Philips returned from Santa Fe, with a message from Col. Price to the different Captains, to send on ten men from each company, as an escort for Col. Mitchell, who was about to start for Chihuahua. From thence he is to proceed to open a communication with General Wool. To-day an express arrived from Col. Mitchell for the same purpose. We were hastily paraded to ascertain how many would volunteer to go, when I, with five others of my company, stepped out of the ranks, and had our names enrolled. We were satisfied that we could not render our situation worse, and hoped any change might be for the better. We hastened to the grazing ground, over the mountain, for our horses, which occupied us all day. Mine was gone of course. To prevent delay, I gave my note to a young man for a horse which belonged to a deceased soldier.
28th.—A full company having been made up, this morning we gathered at our quarters, and were ready at 8 o’clock to take leave of our kind hearted comrades. They bid us “good-bye,” with many expressions of regret, and injunctions to write often. We pursued our journey 35 miles, and put up late in the evening at the house of a rich Spaniard, who accommodated us with an empty room twenty feet square, but it had so small a fireplace that we could not use it for our culinary purposes, so we were forced to do most of our cooking in the open air. It fell to my lot as usual to make the bread, and I kneaded forty pounds of Taos flour in a mass, and baked thirty-six good sized cakes, while two others prepared our camp kettles of coffee, &c.
Sunday, 29th.—At 4 o’clock we ate our breakfast, and were on the road by day-light. We travelled all day without stopping, and arrived at Santa Fe at 6 o’clock in the evening. We went immediately to the American Hotel where supper was provided for us. Nineteen men sat down to the table, none of whom had enjoyed such a privilege for nearly four months. All were hungry, and it was amusing to see how we tried to eat our landlord out of house and home. After supper we retired to our quarters in a very small room.
30th.—Word was sent from Col. Mitchell this morning for us to parade before the Governor’s house for inspection. Our horses were also examined, and all being found in good order for the trip, we were dismissed and conducted to our quarters, in the court house; where we drew our rations, viz. thirty pounds of good American flour, with pork enough to last five days.
December 1st.—Paraded again soon after breakfast, and were told by our Captain, that previously to our departure, we must all march to the sutler’s store, and acknowledge our indebtedness to him, so up we rode in right order and dismounted. We had a peep at our accounts, and I found mine to be $30 75. I had purchased a few articles of clothing on my route, being forced to do so from necessity. I was therefore not surprised at the amount, especially when I read the prices of some the articles, viz. a small cotton handkerchief $1—suspenders $1—flannel shirt $3—tin coffee pot $1 50, &c. &c. Here we bade farewell to our Captains, who had accompanied us to Santa Fe to see us off. Captain Williams shook me cordially by the hand, saying, he had no expectation of seeing me again in this world. Captain Hudson now took charge, and rode with us two miles out of town—here he informed us, we had a dangerous road to travel, but would leave us to the care of Lieutenant Todd for two days, till we were joined by Col. Mitchell and himself. He returned to town, and we came on four miles and stopped at a house, whose master sold us forage for our horses and wood, it being severely cold. Sixty of us occupied two large rooms for the night.
2d.—We marched 25 miles to a place called San Domingo, and took quarters in a deserted house. This is a considerable place, with a handsome church, which was being illuminated when we arrived. In a little time the bells began to ring, and there was a firing of musketry and considerable commotion at the door of the church. Several of our soldiers were induced to go up and inquire into the meaning of the uproar. We were told that a converted Indian chief had just died, and all this was to prevent him from going down to purgatory. The roll of the drum and firing continued a long time, when the ceremonies commenced in the church, from the door of which we saw many large wax candles burning, but not being permitted to enter we very quietly retired.
3d.—After travelling six miles we came to an Indian village called San Felippe, and two miles further down the Rio Grande we encamped in the midst of a good pasture for our horses. After supper, our Lieutenant told me I was honored with the appointment of Captain of the watch. In consequence of this distinction, I had to be up nearly all night. It was very cold. We were now comparatively happy, for we had plenty of good flour from the States, with coffee, sugar, &c.
4th.—We learn that we shall be obliged to stay here till Col. Mitchell comes up with the other company, so we seize the opportunity to have our horses shod. Two blacksmiths are now at work; I have just bought a set of shoes and nails from our sutler for $3.
5th.—The weather has moderated somewhat, but the face of the country presents nothing inviting at this season of the year. Every thing has a desolate and wintry appearance. There being no food for our horses, we chopped down some limbs of the cotton wood tree for them to eat. We then went to a Mexican village to buy corn. Having no money, I took some tobacco and buttons to trade for the corn. While here, I sold my greasy blanket for a Navihoe one, with a meal for my horse in the bargain. The man with whom I traded was very kind; he set before me some corn, mush and sausages, but being seasoned with onions, I declined eating. He then brought in some corn stalk molasses, which I mixed with water and drank, thanking him for his hospitality. I returned to camp, when I found that Col. Mitchell, and the baggage wagons had arrived. I was officer of the guard to-night, and up till 12 o’clock.
Sunday, 6th.—Formed in line by our Colonel in the midst of a heavy shower of rain, and marched down the Rio Grande, a long distance. Our course is due south, keeping the river constantly on our right, and ranges of mountains on our left hand. We passed many villages, and at night encamped near one.
7th.—Rising early this morning to prepare breakfast, I found the snow four inches deep, and still snowing very fast. Marched in right order 15 miles, and after passing several towns situated on the banks of the river, we stopped at night at the large town of Albikirk. Here are garrisoned one hundred and fifty regulars; near whose quarters we encamped in a large room 100 feet by 40. In this place we found a number of soldiers, some engaged in tailoring, some playing cards, and others amusing themselves in various ways.
8th.—The country through which we passed to-day is thickly dotted over with towns and villages, whose names I cannot remember, but the road is dismal enough, being still among the mountains, where every object the eye rests upon is covered with snow. The cold is very intense. We pitched our tents to-night under the walls of a town. We had six small ears of corn for our horses, and no fodder. I went to the Quarter Master and was informed by him that the Mexicans had refused to sell us any thing. I cut some buttons from a uniform jacket, and with them tried to purchase food for my horse, but I was refused every where. I sat down and made out a requisition, and with several others went to their large stacks, ten feet high, which we ascended, and threw down a large turn for each. We succeeded in coming off with our booty, and in a few minutes, we were in bed. We were not disturbed in conscience in the least, being fully covered by the axiom, “necessity knows no law.”
9th.—We were called up this morning to lead our horses into ranks, when two guns and a sabre were missing. They had been taken from the tents by the Mexicans. After the line was formed, Col. Mitchell ordered the men who had lost their arms, to march out. He then told them they would be left behind to search the town, assisted by the alcalde, and if they should not find their arms they would have to return to Santa Fe. We then left; marched ten miles and encamped near a village. Our interpreter was sent to procure forage for the horses, but he returned with the news that none could be had. Our Captain told the Sergeant to go up with a file of soldiers and take what was wanting. He formed a line of twenty men, I among them, and marched off with our Orderly at the head, and second Sergeant, with the bags to put the corn in. At the door of the house, we were ordered to halt. The lock was broken, and we entered, filled our sacks and packed them down to the camp. In this adventure I made the acquaintance of a young man by the name of Hepbourn. He was born and raised in Prince George’s County, Md. After supper, we were all ordered up to draw fifteen rounds of cartridges. A strong guard was ordered out to-night.
10th.—Having orders to march very early, we rose by light and proceeded down the river 18 miles, the country presenting very much the appearance already described. We saw a few vineyards, surrounded by walls. I felt miserably disordered from the cold and loss of rest. I was just about to sit down to supper, which I thought might revive me, when our Orderly came by, requesting the men to form in line immediately, as the Captain wished to read the Articles of War. We stood just one hour and listened to the dry detail. When the reading was concluded, we returned to our tents. After supper, sixteen men were detailed on guard. I stood two hours the first watch, and three hours before day-light. It was extremely cold.
11th.—The roll was called at day-break, and after parade we continued our march 12 miles and encamped in a town among the mountains. Wood was very scarce, and the severity of the weather increasing.
12th.—We eat our breakfast at day-light. It consisted of mess pork and bread, half baked by a miserable fire. We went 12 miles to a place where there is a fine supply of wood. Our poor fellows had the satisfaction of having a good fire all night, and it was very necessary, for the weather was tempestuous with cold gusts of wind and snow.
Sunday, 13th.—At one o’clock this morning I awoke and found myself so cold that I arose and went to the guard-fire to thaw myself. I stood by the fire till day-light. The Captain in his round to visit the guard, stopped at the fire, and I had a pleasant chat with him. He is very clever and condescending. He remained an hour or two, and then woke up the Orderly to have all in readiness for a start. We came over the mountain four miles, where our road intersected the river again, passed a town, and further on encamped near the river. Our interpreter bought a beef from the natives, also a little wood to cook it. The wild geese are very numerous here.
14th.—The roll was called very early this morning—and as my horse had a sore back, I asked the Captain’s permission to walk behind the wagons. I walked all this day and led my horse. When I came up to the encampment I found that my mess had supper ready. It consisted of a kind of chicken pie, bread and coffee. I relished the supper very much, but by way of desert I received information that I had to stand sentinel. I walked my post two hours and then went to bed; being too cold to sleep, I got up at two o’clock, and went to the guard-fire. The guard said he was very sleepy and would lie down if I would consent to serve while he slept. To this I readily agreed—and he laid down, while I made a large fire, which soon attracted the attention of the other sentinels, and several of them collected around it. We enjoyed each others conversation till the morning dawned.
15th.—I woke up the Sergeant, who said we had walked our post four hours over the time. I received the compliment, but did not tell him that we had sat by the fire all the time. In his Irish brogue, and with a pipe in his mouth, he proceeded to call the roll. We are to stay here till the 17th.
16th.—Having secured some beef, I made a large fire to get an early breakfast. Yesterday our Quarter Master pressed a lot of seven very good cattle from the Mexicans. Last night a strong guard of twenty men was stationed around our camp. The weather is still raw and cold. We are yet among the mountains.
17th.—This morning we reached the second crossing of the Rio Grande. Four miles beyond the crossing, we overtook Col. Doniphan’s command, and encamped near them. Having to walk and lead my horse, I did not come up till all were fixed. I found our boys very angry at a circumstance which they related and made me write down, with a promise to publish it—which promise I now fulfil. While on the march to-day, the Captain ordered a halt, and told the soldiers that he had been requested by the Lieutenants to beg them all not to come near their fire or tents, as it incommoded them greatly. He stated on his own behalf, as well as on behalf of the other officers, that it was quite a nuisance to have the privates lurking about their tents and fires. He said that something might be “hooked” and that the Lieutenant had already lost some saleratus, &c. This was a poser. Our poor fellows could hardly endure it. Some of them were much exasperated. I tried to soothe them, and told them no other harm was meant than a slight intimation that we must keep away at meal times, as a knowledge of their better fare might make us dissatisfied, &c. All passed off better than I expected. We had to go a mile for water, and the thermometer at zero.
18th.—The situation of our tents was by no means pleasant. There was much complaint about stones and hillocks, lying hard, &c. Breakfast over, I started with the wagons, in company with some others, whose horses’ backs were sore. I felt stupified from the cold and loss of rest, having walked my round five hours last night. We went on 12 miles, which we trudged on foot. At night we cut some branches of the cotton wood for our horses to eat. We were preparing to rest, when our Captain told us, if any man lost his horse he would have to walk back to Santa Fe. He further said, that we had to go through a gloomy region or desert, 85 miles in extent, where no wood or water could be procured. He advised us to go to work and prepare food enough to last three or four days. I made up 30 lbs. of flour and baked eighteen cakes, while the balance was attended to by my mess.
19th.—We were all busy providing against the perils of our difficult and dangerous march. We shall have to keep close company, as the Navihoe Indians roam this desert in bands. At 11 o’clock we moved off in fine order, and marched 15 miles over the dreary plain. At 8 o’clock at night the Captain ordered a halt. We picked up a few weeds, kindled a little fire, took a cold cut of bread and meat, and laid on the ground to rest, without erecting the tents. A young man having drank too much of the “ardiente,” very unluckily offended one of the officers, and was ordered to be tied to the wagon wheel. He cut a variety of capers while this was being done. His friends soon set him at liberty.
20th.—The news of a “spring in the desert” was brought by some scouts, who had started out on an exploring expedition. They found the spring in a place full 6 miles from our road. We drove the cattle over a miserably rough path to drink from the spring, which turned out to be a muddy pool. We afterwards marched 15 miles and encamped late at night. We took a slice of bread and meat and laid down to rest on our blankets.
21st.—The appearance of our Captain very early this morning aroused us. He came with the intelligence that Major Gilpin had sent on an express last night for a reinforcement, as he was expecting an attack every moment from the enemy. In a few minutes we were on the march, and without stopping to take breakfast we travelled 35 miles. We encamped late at night 3 miles from the river, where men and beasts, thirsty and weary, were refreshed. I was afraid my horse would kill himself drinking. With six others, I pressed some oxen from the traders, whom we found encamped here, as the most of our team had given out and were left upon the road.
22nd.—Passed over 14 miles of broken wretched country to-day, the soil of which produces nothing but a kind of shrub called soap-weed. The inhabitants, it is said, use this weed in washing their clothes. We encamped in a rough place, among stones and hillocks.
23rd.—I trust the end of this “jornada,” as it is called, and which means the “region of death,” is nearly reached, for a march of 12 miles brought us to a village, where we halted to take in provisions bought by our Quarter Master. Proceeding two miles further we came up to Major Gilpin, whom we found encamped on a large sandy plain. We had to go 2 or 3 miles for wood. Our flour was nearly gone, and we had a little beef soup and rice for supper at night. The boys being still hungry, we went to the village and procured some dried fruit and pumpkins, which we sliced up and stewed in our camp kettles. Of this fare we partook heartily, and laid down to sleep in the sand.
24th.—The first blast of the bugle this morning made us hurry into line. Some of the men being rather tardy, were too late, and they were told by the officer who inspected us, that any man who did not come into rank at the sound of the bugle, would be made to stand guard three days. We broke ranks and ate our breakfast, which consisted of a small piece of bread, made up with pumpkin. The weather is now quite pleasant, and the country, hitherto so uniformly desolate, begins to improve in appearance.
BATTLE OF BRACITO.
25th.—In the union of our forces we are one thousand strong. Moved as early as usual from the position we have occupied the last three days, and after marching 12 miles, we came to Bracito, and encamped at 10 o’clock. We stripped our horses as usual, and picketed them out; went out to hunt wood to cook our dinners. Some of the men had gone at least a mile from camp when the alarm was given, “to arms! to arms!” Looking in the direction pointed out we saw a cloud of dust, as if the whole of Mexico was coming down upon us. Unwilling to throw away our wood, we ran with our turns on our shoulders, when we heard an officer hallooing—“Throw away your wood and bring your horses into camp.” We obeyed the order as quickly as possible. We found our Orderly at his post, directing the men to load their guns and get into line. Every man was at his proper place in a few minutes. By this time the Mexican army was in sight, and had formed in battle array at a distance of a mile from us. Presently an officer came out of their ranks, handsomely mounted and bearing a black flag. Col. Mitchell, accompanied with the interpreter, rode up to meet him on half way ground to inquire his business. He told them he had come to demand the surrender of our entire force, by submitting, he said, our lives would be spared—if we did not, every man would be put to death. Our interpreter cut short his harangue by telling him to “go to h— and bring on his forces.” In the meantime our company (the Chihuahua Rangers) received orders from head quarters to right about face, and march from the right, where we were somewhat protected by brush, weeds and gopher hills, to the extreme left, in open ground to withstand the charge of the Mexican cavalry; so off we marched in double quick time to our position on the left. Our Captain here told us to reserve our fire till the enemy was in fair rifle distance, and added that he hoped no man in his command would act the coward, but all would do their duty as volunteers and American soldiers. He had scarcely done speaking, when the enemy commenced firing at us, from three to four hundred yards distant. They advanced closer, and continued to advance, pouring in volley after volley, till the sound of bullets over our heads reminded me of a hail storm.—We waited impatiently for the word of command. It was at length given, “fire.” One loud peal of thunder was heard from our Missouri rifles. Consternation and dismay was the result, for, thrown into confusion, the Mexicans commenced obliquing to our left. Another volley, well aimed, caused them to retreat towards our wagons. Here they were met by a round from the wagon company. In the meantime Capt. Reid, at the head of eighteen men, well mounted, pushed after them, chasing them to the mountains. All their provisions, guns, sabres, camp furniture, &c., besides one 10 pound howitzer, fell into our hands. The Mexican loss was estimated at thirty or forty killed and wounded, while we had but two slightly wounded. The Mexicans left their dead on the field.
26th.—With fifteen prisoners and a few wounded Mexicans, we resumed our march, the main army being flanked on both sides, and came on 16 miles and encamped in a desolate place filled with thorn bushes. Here we prepared our supper, and were about to sit down, when the report of a gun from the picket guard, caused us to extinguish the fires, and form in line as quickly as possible. Presently our Lieutenant rode up and said it was a false alarm. We were ordered to break ranks and get our supper. Again we commenced that unfortunate meal, when the report of a second gun, so loud as to be heard by every one, again made us put the fires down. There was a tremendous clattering of arms, for all formed in line in a few seconds. At this moment Lieut. Cribbons rode up and said that in visiting one of the outer pickets, he was requested to give the countersign by the guard, whose gun was cocked, and he accidentally let the hammer down too heavily, causing it to explode, the load passing close to the Lieutenant’s face. After hearing this statement, we again broke ranks to resume our supper. I stood sentinel, to guard the wagons and piece of artillery taken from the enemy, till 12 o’clock, then went to bed—was awakened again at 3, and stood till 6 o’clock.
Sunday, 27th.—Col. Doniphan wishing an early start, the roll was called at light and we moved on in the same order as yesterday, with front and rear guard. We had scarcely travelled six miles, when at a distance over the river was seen a dust, as if a body of horsemen were meeting us. We were told to keep cool and obey orders. Continuing our course we met several Mexicans bearing a white flag. Their commander coming up, presented Colonels Doniphan and Mitchell his sabre. They then drank wine and other liquors together, and we resumed our march, crossed the Rio Grande, and encamped in the town of El Paso del Norte about night-fall. This is the noted pass between Old and New Mexico. The town contains about seven or eight thousand inhabitants, and is built along the margin of the river, several miles in length. The environs are cultivated to some extent, and the usual varieties of fruit grow here in abundance. The river is compressed in many places to a very small compass, by the high and precipitous mountains, through which it winds its way.
28th.—Established our quarters a mile from the city, where there is a large coral or enclosure, in which to keep our horses. Throughout the day a variety of fruit was brought to camp by the natives, and readily bought up by the soldiers. The wind was high, and we were nearly blinded by clouds of dust, which being mixed with isinglass is very hurtful to the eyes.
29th.—To-day Col. Doniphan, while searching the town, found two pieces of cannon, and after breaking several locks, a good deal of ammunition was discovered. We all paraded and were carried through the regular drill.
January 1st, 1847.—The last two days being quite cold, with high winds, we kept in camp. After the usual parade to-day, Lieutenant Todd went to town about 10 o’clock in company with several of our men, but they returned in a short time at full speed, hallooing with all their might for us to get our horses quickly, and saddle up, for the Mexicans were coming on us. In a little while we were ready and marched over the river to join the other regiment, and prepared for battle. When we arrived at the ground, we were formed by Col. Doniphan, who despatched Col. Mitchell with twelve men to reconnoitre the enemy, who were reported to be in sight. In the course of an hour, they returned and said it was a false alarm. We then marched to the public square, and informed by our Captain that arrangements were made to keep us in town, and that our camp equipage must be sent for. One out of each mess was directed to go with the wagons for that purpose. We were well supplied with fuel at night, and our quarters were quite comfortable.
2nd.—Nothing of importance transpired to-day. The roll was called, and we paraded twice, morning and evening.
Sunday, 3rd.—The usual duties being over, and a high wind prevailing, we did not go to church. Hearing that a sick horse was in the coral I went over to see, and found it was my mare. I brought her out to have her bled and physicked. I went to get assistance, and when I returned with a friend I found she had escaped; searched the town three hours without finding her.
4th.—Renewed my efforts to recover my lost horse; walked till three o’clock, when I found her in the centre of a lot about two miles from town—dead. I hastened to Col. Mitchell and told him I was on foot, as my mare had lost breath and was laid up to dry. He advised me to look about and ascertain if I could suit myself. If I succeeded I was to call on him again in the morning.
5th.—Our Orderly Sergeant in reading over the names of those to be placed on mounted guard, cried out mine. Accordingly, I with three others marched down to the public square, where we paraded, and dinner, or rather supper, being over, we were placed as sentinels till three o’clock in the morning. I then went to the guard-fire, spread down my blanket and slept till day-light.
6th.—To-day we were allowed two-third rations of coarse Taos flour, some coffee without sugar, and poor mutton. We sometimes got a few peaches from the inhabitants in exchange for tobacco, buttons, &c.
7th.—Finding our flour nearly gone I went out and bought a baked pumpkin to mix with it; saw much fruit exhibited for sale, but had no money to buy any. Our scouting party which had been sent out a few days ago, returned this evening, bringing three prisoners, a priest among them. They were captured 12 miles down, on their way to Chihuahua, with papers containing information of our movements to the Mexican army in that quarter. They were placed under strict surveillance.
Sunday, 10th.—I went to church with a number of others, and witnessed all the ceremonies, and manœuvres of this singular people. The church is large, and the handsomest and best built house in the place. I saw the representation of Christ in the sepulchre, with various other images in and near the altar. On our return we found multitudes in the open street playing cards—sorry to say, some were American soldiers.
13th.—Our time begins to hang heavily. The ordinary duties of the day are soon accomplished, and no novelty to amuse or excite, the soldiers become restless and are ready for any excess. Our living consists of poor mutton, the miserable Taos flour and a little coffee. Some complain and others “hook” what they can to improve their fare.
14th.—I was taken last night with a violent headache and pain in the bowels. My diarrhœa having become much worse I got up and went to the Surgeon, who gave me 15 grs. calomel, 10 do. jalap, 5 do. rhubarb and 2 do. tartar, all mixed up together in a dose. I took this monstrous compound and sat by the guard-fire till morning, I then laid on my blanket and slept till 3 o’clock in the evening. Needing some refreshment, I tried my mess, but they had nothing I could relish; I went to Sergeant Edwards and he gave me a lump of sugar to sweeten my coffee. I tried in vain to borrow a picayune to purchase some molasses. At length I applied to a messmate who had come to me a few days after my horse had died, bringing a mule, and saying if I would consent to let him draw the rations of my horse I should have the use of this mule. Yesterday I understood he had sent his mule away to graze, and was selling my corn. When I presented my petition, he turned his back as a refusal, and went down among the gamblers and lost every cent.
15th.—Feeling disordered and ill, I applied early to our Surgeon, who gave me a small lump of sugar, charging me to take particular care of the article, as it was only intended for the sick. He felt my pulse and made me swallow a large dose of salts and tartar; I then went to my blanket.
16th.—I awoke this morning with a high fever and headache. The Surgeon gave me a large pill, and I was placed in the hospital, under the particular care of a doctor, whose name I could not learn, but who said he was from Philadelphia, and could out-practice any man in the regiment. Wishing some coffee, he very politely took a pinch of sugar between his thumb and finger to sweeten it for me, talking the while of “his superior skill,” &c.
17th.—Still in the hospital, but feeling better, I applied to the Quarter Master, who gave me four pints of American flour; I baked a small cake to eat with my coffee. At night I spread my blanket in the tent, and slept with my mess.
18th.—At the sound of the reveille I arose and strolled over the graveyard, where the remains of young Leland were interred yesterday. This young man died of the fever prevailing among the troops, and his grave is close to the wall, fronting an old church in ruins. Piles of bones lay around—in the centre of some of the hills were erected wooden crosses.
21st.—Since Tuesday last I have been ill in the hospital, with high fever and headache—bed hard and uncomfortable, consequently little sleep or rest. The doctor, in his round, asked me why I was not out at the roll-call this morning, as my name was erased, by his direction, from the sick list. He said there was nothing the matter with me, and he would give me no more medicine. He charged me with being home-sick, &c. &c., with many other tender and endearing epithets. Weak and quite unwell, I left the hospital and found my way to Col. Doniphan’s quarters, I consulted Dr. Morton, who, with expressions of sympathy, gave me the necessary restoratives. I had symptoms of jaundice, with very sore eyes.
26th.—I was somewhat recovered from my illness, through the humane treatment of Dr. Morton, but I still suffered considerably from my eyes. I felt much regret that I was prevented from joining Capt. Hudson, who took our company on a scout, and will be gone several days. I begin to feel weary of our detention here, occasioned by the non-arrival of Capt. Weightman with the artillery from Santa Fe. Col. Doniphan is hourly expecting this reinforcement.
27th.—Last evening a fellow was caught by our outer picket guard, who could give no satisfactory account of himself, and told so many contradictory tales, that our Colonel sent him to the guard-house. At ten o’clock our company returned from the scouting expedition; they went down to the fort, 25 miles off, and found it was deserted. They think it very likely we shall have no fighting to do at Chihuahua.
29th.—While on guard to-day over the prisoners taken at the battle of Bracito, I thought I would write in my journal, I searched my belt for it in vain. It was gone!—taken out probably by some mischievous soldier in the tent. In this book I had faithfully kept an account of every thing interesting to myself at least, since the day I left Carroll County, Missouri. Having another blank book I commenced writing again, but felt provoked at my loss.
30th.—This morning, being relieved from the duty of sentinel, I went immediately to Capt. Hudson and stated the loss of my journal. He asked me a number of questions in relation to it, and appeared pleased at so unusual an undertaking in a private. He went forward and told the soldiers that Maryland’s book must be restored or every man in his command should be searched.
31st.—The impatience of our boys for the arrival of the artillery has induced several to go out to meet it. This evening some of them returned, and said it was not more than 30 miles off. To-day my book was found on the floor of the tent. The robber was no doubt alarmed by the Captain’s order, and dropped it in the most convenient place.
February 1st.—We paraded early, and about 12 o’clock several rounds from our artillery-men, just across the Rio Grande, announced the arrival of Capt. Weightman from Santa Fe, with four six pounders and two twelve pound howitzers. They marched in town in right order; our men firing the salute from our piece of captured cannon just as they reached the public square. This company is an important acquisition to our small force.
3d.—Early orders were received that Lieut. Col. Mitchell, at the head of the Chihuahua Rangers, would move down to the fort to-day. Every thing being in readiness we came on in double file, and arrived at sunset at a pretty little village. Our provision wagons being delayed on the road, every thing like food in this small place was had in requisition by the orders of the Colonel, and we made our supper on pies, cheese, bread, &c.
4th.—This morning we were told to saddle up and hasten forward to overtake the traders, who had disobeyed orders in preceding us; we were ordered to bring them back. In obedience to the order we started and travelled 13 miles. On the way we saw several Mexicans, who endeavored to elude our observation. Our first and second Lieutenants wishing to know who they were, and on what errand bent, gave chase. After a run of two miles at full speed, they were overtaken and searched. One was the alcalde from the town where we staid last night. We halted late in the evening on the road, where we met a Mexican fully armed, gun, sabre, &c. He was also stopped and minutely examined, but no papers being found on his person, he was suffered to pass.
5th.—Marched on several miles, overtook and encamped with the traders, who had formed their wagons in a pen or coral, tried to refresh ourselves on a supper of black bread, poor beef, and sassafras tea, cooked over a fire of thorn bushes. The traders sell the bark of the sassafras at $1 per pound. A small cup of the decoction cost 25 cents to-night.
6th.—The ground was so uneven we did not erect our tents, but spread our blankets and went to bed; the cold prevented any thing like refreshing sleep. We arrived late at our former encampment, and found Col. Mitchell had returned from El Paso, whither he had gone to see Col. Doniphan. He brought news, which was currently reported there, viz. that Gen. Taylor had been overpowered at San Louis Potosi by the Mexicans, and was imprisoned, with 4000 regulars. Of course this was a Mexican story, told no doubt for effect—and it had its effect upon our boys, for it made us feel as if we could fight like lions against the treacherous foe. We waited at this place for Col. Doniphan, who was making every preparation for our dangerous trip. I made for my own use to-day a pair of wooden spurs.
7th.—This morning after roll-call and breakfast, we fed our horses and mules, and tried to rest and amuse ourselves. At supper I made some pancakes, without milk or eggs, unfortunately I put rather too much salt in my batter. Fifteen men were sent down the river on a scouting expedition to-night. My name was called to be on guard, so I gathered up my blanket and went into the line with the rest. I was placed in first relief, near the river. I walked two hours, then went to bed at 12 o’clock by the guard-fire; I was awakened by the Corporal at three, and stood till morning.
8th.—Prepared my clothes by washing and mending, for our departure. Boiled some beans and beef for my mess. The weather was very disagreeable, and we all felt weary of our delay.
9th.—While busily engaged fixing up to-day, Col. Doniphan came on with the artillery and encamped near us. All is now bustle and excitement, as it is said we shall start in the morning.
10th.—Col. Doniphan has concluded to stay here to-day with the army, as it is very cold and cloudy. Our boys are making desperate efforts to amuse themselves. Among other things, our sutler is here with his establishment, and whiskey is selling at 75 cents per pint. With some honorable exceptions, the scene among officers and men may be much “better imagined than described.”
11th.—The whole of Col. Doniphan’s regiment, including the Chihuahua Rangers, started this morning for the South to join Gen. Wool. We marched in right order 12 miles, and encamped on the bank of the river.
12th.—The wagons not coming in last night, some uneasiness was expressed by our Commander, when, with fifteen others, I returned to where we encamped the night before, and found the train just about to move on. We passed a caravan, who told us they had lost the last night 250 mules and 50 yoke of oxen, driven off by the Indians. We came to our camp and found cooking to be the order of the day. We are about entering another jornada, and provisions for four days must be packed.
13th.—Detained here to have all in complete readiness. The Indians were at their thievish work again. Last night they drove off some cattle and mules belonging to the traders. The skill and daring evinced by these bands of savages exceed belief. They follow the army, and are always prowling around our camp at night.
Sunday, 14th.—Although on mounted guard nearly all night, I made all the haste I could to eat an early breakfast and saddle up. I was among the first in the ranks. Here we were told that the burial of two soldiers, who expired last night, would only detain us a few minutes longer. The mournful ceremony ended, we started at 8 o’clock; came on the jornada five miles, and halted to feed our horses and mules. I was in the rear guard behind the prisoners all day—travelled a long and wearisome journey through the sand until 8 o’clock at night. I ate a small piece of bread and meat, and spread my blanket at the guard-fire, where I slept till four. I was awakened by the officer of the watch and stood till six. I was at last relieved by the sound of the tattoo.
15th.—12 miles further on we stopped to eat breakfast, which was a cold cut. We again moved on, and came 20 miles through this jornada and encamped late in the night. No water was as yet to be seen. Our Sergeant measured to each man a half pint. One man sold his half pint for 50 cents.
16th.—We made an early start, and after marching 15 miles, came to some puddles of dirty water. Our horses and mules rushed in and drank all they could get. Ascending the hill before us a spring was discovered, but the water was muddy and brackish. At night had a slight shower of rain, with lightning and thunder.
17th.—On awaking, the first thing I heard was that a man in our company was dead. The poor fellow had left a wife and family in Missouri to serve his country. He was taken sick at El Paso, with the measles, and had come thus far to die. We followed his remains to the grave, where our Captain stood forth and made an impressive speech. He stated that “this was the third time he had been called, on occasions like the present, to perform the mournful duty to men in his command, and that it was wisdom for each and all to prepare for the worst,” &c. The usual rounds were fired, and we covered poor Tolly over with soap-weed, and filled up the grave. After trampling the dirt and leveling the ground, we marched off in right order to this spot, where we shall rest to-day.
18th.—Loaned my mule to a soldier who had lost his horse, to enable him to go in search. I was rewarded for this favor, by being compelled to stay behind my company several hours, till he returned with his horse. We pursued our journey two miles, and overtook the command at a Hot Spring, which was discovered on the top of a small eminence. It boiled up very curiously in the centre, covering the surface with bubbles. The temperature about 100 degrees. The water is scarcely fit to drink, having a very disagreeable taste, nevertheless, the men filled their canteens, saying they would drink it when it got cold enough. The country still presents a barren appearance, the soil sterile; the surface rocky and mountainous. We marched 14 miles, and about sunset, encamped close to a small stream, which supplied a few poor villagers with water. The people busied themselves in preparing for us, what they could, viz. a little muskeet brush to cook with, and corn for our cattle. In crossing this jornada, the teamsters were obliged to throw away 5000 pounds flour, and leave several wagons behind—the mules being unable to proceed.
19th.—After a journey of such length over uneven ground, the fatigue of the army induced our Commander to remain in camp to-day. About two o’clock the wind began to rise, and increased in violence till the tents were leveled to the ground. We tried to cook by digging pits in which to place the fire. The sand blowing in clouds, covered our food; making it gritty and unpleasant to eat. As night came on, a heavy storm of wind stripped our wagons of their covers. Quite unsheltered, we had to do the best we could, and that was bad enough. We laid down, as we had often done before, on our blankets. We slept uncomfortably on hillocks and tufts of grass.
20th.—The wind having abated, we were all in line at an early hour—came nine miles through this ranch, to the mouth of another jornada. Here the same scene of desolation is presented. No cultivation to be seen any where, nor scarcely any natural vegetable production except the thorn and muskeet brush. The days are warm, and the nights very cold, in this region.
21st.—Marched ten miles out to the Hot Springs, which are situated in a ranch, and encamped. The army will here halt a day or two. The same arrangements are to be made as before. While cooking my meat and bread, I was informed by the Orderly, that with 18 others, I was appointed to go before the command several miles. Hastily despatching the meal, we mounted and rode out a long distance, where we had to stand all night. We made a small fire of brush weed on the road side.
22d.—I was relieved from duty early this morning by the next detail. Feeling much disordered from loss of rest and fatigue. I was greatly obliged to a messmate who very thoughtfully brought me some water and a piece of bread for my breakfast. The army appearing—we went into line by sections of four, and marched 17 miles where we encamped at a place where the men had water; but none could be spared to the poor horses and mules. After eating some bread, we laid down on the ground and went to sleep.
23d.—Without waiting for refreshment of any kind, we came on to-day eight miles to a pond, where we watered our horses and mules—we stopped for the poor animals to graze awhile and then proceeded three miles, when we halted for the night at a stream of water. Several antelopes were killed to-day. After the tents were fixed up, we boiled some of the flesh, which made fine eating; the repast was seasoned with a good appetite; a fast of nearly forty-eight hours, had made us hungry enough.
24th.—In conversation with my Captain—I expressed a wish to go up a neighboring mountain, as I understood a large Tagoon could be seen from its summit. He told me to go and make all the observations I could. Having no time to lose, I commenced its ascent, by climbing over large rocks, in which were formed several immense caves—some of them I thought were well fitted to be the resort of robbers. At length I found myself on the top, and set down to write. At the distance of three miles a lake of considerable extent is seen, reposing in the bosom of a prairie, bounded by the horizon. To the left a continuous range of mountains loom up, whose bare and rugged tops present to the mind the idea of coldness and desolation. The whole face of the country is destitute of wood, and verdure, except a species of brush or thorn bushes. Looking towards our camp, I beheld a long line of wagons stretching along the road as far as the sight could reach. They were all in motion, and the sight made me hasten down the mountain at a brisk pace. It was our army preparing for a start and I did not wish to be left “solitary and alone,” in that rocky region. In a few minutes we took up the line of march—came 12 miles and encamped at sunset. We saw Mexican spies at a distance. The picket guard came in and reported, that 10,000 Mexicans were at a lake some miles off, ready to give us battle.
25th.—The sound of the reveille started every man to his post by light. We moved on eight miles to the lake, and watered our horses and mules. We saw nothing of the Mexicans. The country begins to improve as we leave the jornada, especially on the margin of these lakes or ponds, the water of which is brackish. Here prairie grass grows with some luxuriance. Kindling a fire, the soldiers commenced baking bread, made from the wretched native flour, now our only fare. A high wind prevailing—sparks were carried out, which set the dry brush and weeds in aflame. The Chihuahua Rangers had orders to subdue the fire, and we commenced threshing it out with our blankets, but the wind increasing we found it useless labor. The flames continued to increase in spite of us. The whole command was put in action with their horses, beating a track, to stop the progress of the fire. Unfortunately for us, the fire caught the grass on the other side of the track, and the wind blowing tremendously, the fire was carried in almost every direction. We then encamped on the burnt ground, off of which the grass had been burnt, and picketing our horses on the left of the road in the prairie, we laid down to rest. In a few hours we were awakened to bring our horses in, for the whole prairie was on fire. Coming out of my tent, a sight appeared of such magnificence as had never before met my eyes. It was an opposite mountain on fire, and the whole prairie, as far as the eye could reach, in flames. A strange glare tinged the clouds, and all surrounding objects, and presented a scene which was fearfully grand. It consumed nearly all the grass in the country 15 miles towards Chihuahua.
26th.—We continued winding through the mountain passes and plains 16 miles. Our advance found a coral to-day, in which were 50 sheep and 15 cattle, driven in from the surrounding neighborhood. They were immediately butchered for the command, the soldiers being nearly exhausted for want of food. This was a dreadful day for our march. The wind was so high that we could scarcely see a hundred yards ahead.
27th.—The artillery and wagons were kept in front all day, the whole army being formed in two lines in the rear. We marched in right order 8 miles, and encamped on the margin of a lake. Here we shall halt till to-morrow. Scouts were sent out in every direction. I was busily engaged all the evening writing for our boys, who believe themselves to be on the eve of some engagement with the enemy. Saw several of our men come in, leading a horse—soon learned that spies being seen by our advance, Capt. Skillman of the traders’ company, and Capt. Parsons of the E company from Cole County, with others gave chase and overtook one. The fellow finding he was likely to become a prisoner, leaped off, and fled up the mountain leaving his horse and all his rigging behind. He was elegantly mounted. Col. Mitchell has just informed us that a battle will be fought to-morrow.