At 9,000 feet, the jungle now became humid, Gaultheria flexuosa, Mespilus microphyllus, Quercus ilecifolia, Tetrantheroides baccis nigris, Gaultherium nummularifolia common, Rubia cordifolia! Hydrangea.
At 8,900 feet, Junipers cease, woods of Q. ilecifolia and Pinus cedroides, Rosa microphylla, shrubby Rhododendrons, that which was arboreous previously now becoming shrubby, Berberis asiatica, Taxus or Abies brunonis! Lomaria of Khegumpa, Rhododendron foliis oblongis subtus punctatis ferrugineis, Rubus, Primula Stuartii! Quercus foliis, Castaneæ, Ilex, Betuloid, continues.
At 8,500 feet, Panax rhododendrifolia, Thibaudia obovata, Taxus ophiopogon angustissimus, Rhododendron formosum majus! Smilax ruscoideus vel gaultherifolia! Primula pulcherrima, very common.
At 8,200 feet, Spiræa decomposita, Thibaudia obovata very common. No firs, woods of oaks and Rhododendron majus, Panax rhododendrifolia and another species; Bambusa.
At the nullah, same vegetation, Tetranthera nuda, Primula pulcherrima, Valeriana violifolia, Eurya acuminata, Daphne papyrifolia, Fragaria, Potentilla supina, Rumex of Khegumpa, Poa annua, Stellaria media and angustifolia, Rhodoracea deflexa!
At 8,000 feet, the woods at this elevation have the same characters, Rhododendron argenteum becomes common, Q. ilecifolia and Castaneæ facies, both very handsome and large trees, covered with pendulous mosses, Sphæropteris, Saxifragea viridis, fleshy Urticea, Oxalis major on sward at the same elevation, Vaccinium cyaneum, Mespilus microphyllus, Artemisia major, Gnaphalium, Dipsacus, Elæagnus in woods, Tetranthera nuda, Taxus, Gaultheria flexuosa nummularifolia, Vaccinium cyaneum, Lomaria, Lonicera villosa, paper plant, Thibaudia orbicularis, Hedera.
At 7,800 feet, towards open barren hills, Indigofera canescens, Q. robur, Spiræa decomposita, Anthistiria minor, Composita penduliflora, Alnus of Beesa, Juncus effusus, Viburnum cærulescens, Xyris, Scripus fuscescens of Tassangsee, Gaultheria arborea and fruticosa, Polygonum rheoides, Smilax auriculata, Saccharum aristata, Lobelia pyramidalis, Stauntonia latifolia, Salix lanata, Deutzia.
At 7,500 feet, Quercus tomentosa commences, between this and Tongsa, Berberis asiatica is very common, Rosa sp., quarta, Cyaneum dycopod. of Surureem, Ilex dipyrena, Tuipus, Kysoor of Churra, Apple, Gleichenia major, Rubus deltoideus. In wheat fields, 7,500 feet, Crucifera, Thlaspa, Lamium, Ervum, are found, Vaccinium cyaneum continues to 7,000 feet, this Mespilus microphylla, Berberis asiatica, Cycnium, Lycopod. of Surureem, Ilex, Daphne papyriferæ, are the only elevational plants found between 8 and 9,000 feet, and which continue low down. All the others ceased with the jungles.
March 13th.—Tongsa: this, although the second place in the kingdom, is a poor wretched village, the houses, always excepting the palace, are poorer than ordinary, abounding in rats, fleas, and other detestable vermin. Our reception would seem to be uncordial: we are miserably housed in the heart of the village, which is a beggarly one. On descending the hill some people in the Pillo’s house behaved very insolently, roaring out, and making most insolent signs for me to dismount, of which of course I took no notice: sparrow-hawk was seen at 8,000 feet. There is but little cultivation, indeed the adjoining hills are barren in the extreme. The little cultivation there is of barley, which is now in the ear, and decent enough; the crops being much better than any we have yet seen, although in many fields it is difficult to see any crop at all. The village, including the houses on the surrounding adjoining heights does not contain thirty houses. There is one flock of sheep, which are in good condition, some small shawl-goats, and a few cattle, but of a lighter breed than the Mithans, from which they are very distinct, and which we have scarcely seen since crossing Dhonglaila, the first high ridge. There is some rice cultivation along the nullah or torrent, on which the village is situated. Pears, peaches likewise occur, and are now both in flower. The hills around are bare, nothing but shrubby vegetation being visible, the tree-jungle not descending below 7,500 feet, except on one spur to the south-west, on which it reaches nearly to our present level.
The shrubby vegetation consists of Hamamelidæ, Salix, Gaultheria fruticosa, Rosa, Rubus, Pomacea, Elæagnus, Berberis asiatica, among which Artemisia major occurs on sward. Primula Stuartii, Potentilla and P. supina, Oxalis acetoseltoides, Juncus, Bartramia, Polytrichum glaucum, Fragaria vesca. In the fields Lamium, Crucifera, Thlaspi, Gnaphalium aureum, Prenanthoid, Fragaria indica, Viola, Ranunculus, Oxalis acetosella, Poa annua.
Urtica urens, and urentior occur about the houses, Cupressus pendula and a Magnoliaceous tree, with exquisitely fragrant blossoms.
The palace is a huge, long, straggling piece of patch-work, of ordinary construction, and less imposing than that of Byagur, which the Pillo makes his summer residence on the Bhoomlungtung; it is however ornamented with three gilt umbrellas. It is situated on the bank of the nullah, and defended by some outworks, 6 to 700 feet above it; to the east, these might, from their situation, be easily demolished by stones. The palace itself is commanded in every direction, particularly by the hill, along which we came from Jaisa; indeed a person might jump from the summit of this on to the outpost, and thence on to the palace; so precipitous is the descent.
The people, above all those hitherto seen, are dirty in their persons, uniting curiosity with no small share of obstinacy and impertinence in their manners. The birds are the blackbird, a black mina, the house-sparrow, sparrow-hawk, larger crow, domestic pigeons, kites, and hoopoo. The red-legged crows I have heard once, but far above, nor do I think that they ever visit this. The productions being essentially different from those of the elevated valleys we have lately quitted. Can those valleys be the steps to the table-land of Thibet to which they must be near, and which is reached sooner in that direction than any other? The idea of the high valleys in question being steps to table-land is perhaps corroborated by the fact, that the table-land is said to be within two days’ journey from Byagur.
Our interview with the Pillo took place on the 15th, it was conducted with some state, and with some impertinence. The latter was indicated by delaying us at the door of the audience room, the former by the attendance of more numerous and better dressed attendants than usual. Two Pillos were present. The incense as usual was burning, and the Pillos, both old and new, were seated before some large Chinese-looking figures. The only novel ceremony was the praying over a mess of something which I imagine was meant for tea; in the prayer all joined, when finished the beverage was handed to the Pillos, who, however, were contented with merely tasting it. Before this some was strewn on the floor in front, and some to the right of the chieftains. The castle was in places crowded with people, no less than 5 to 600, but all were as dirty as usual. None but the immediate attendants appeared armed. The new Pillo is a dark low-looking man, with an incipient goitre, the old one a more decent aristocratic looking person, good-looking and very fair. The presents were of course beggarly, consisting of indifferent oranges, wretched plantains, sugarcane of still worse quality, and ghee of an abominable odour.
March 17th.—We still remain here, and do not expect to leave for two or three days. The weather is unsettled, and the sun increasing in power daily. The new Soobahs left to-day for their appointments, with the exception of the Dewangur one. Pigs are here fed on boiled nettle leaves: old ladies may be seen occasionally busily employed in picking the leaves for this purpose, and which they do by means of bamboo pincers or tweezers. A few plantains may be met with here, but in a wretched state. Rice may be seen 500 feet above this, on the north of the castle, the slope of a hill being appropriated to its cultivation; the terraces above, owing to the inclination, are very narrow, and from the paucity of straw, the crops must, I should infer, be very poor.
March 22nd.—To-day we took our leave of the Pillo, who received us in a room to the south of the castle. He was friendly enough, but begged for presents unconscionably. He was surrounded by a considerable number of more mean-looking persons than ordinary. On the previous meeting he talked openly of being at enmity with the present Deb Rajah, but on this occasion he said little on the subject.
The castle is an ill-built, and worse arranged building, the windows and loopholes being so placed as to afford every facility for shooting into the air. In a court-yard, several tiger skins brought from the plains, are suspended.
It now appears that this Pillo, who said previously that the new Deb was never installed, is himself an usurper, previously handing the old Deb from the throne. This latter personage appears to be by far the more popular of the two. The Pillo must now have great influence, as all the posts in his division, are either held by his own sons, or by his more influential servants. The sons by the bye are, so long as they remain in the presence, treated like ordinary servants. Joongar is held by one of his sons, a lad of about eighteen, of plain but pleasing appearance and of good manners. He visited us yesterday, and his newly acquired rank sat easily on him. The old Pillo no doubt owes his rank to his having been the father of the lad chosen to be Dhurma Rajah, he is himself very evidently low-born and low-bred, and compared with the former one, so poor a specimen, that the greater popularity of the former is not to be wondered at. From all we have heard, they are contemptible rulers, as they appear to do nothing but intrigue for power among themselves. Changes are hence excessively frequent, and were they attended with much bloodshed, the country would be depopulated.
This evening we had ample proof that the Bhootea houses are not water-proof. Heavy showers occurred with thunder and dense clouds from the south-west.
March 23rd.—We left Tongsa, proceeding through the castle, and thence struck down to the river Mateesun. The descent was very steep, and amounted to about 1,200 feet. The river is crossed by an ordinary bridge, it is a large and violent stream and contains fish, some of which, seen by Blake, were of large size. Crossing this, we continued throughout the remainder of the march, gradually rising along the ridges bounding the Tongsa river. We continued rising until we reached our halting place, Taseeling. In one or two places, the road was completely built up; ascending by zig-zags up, in some degree, perpendicular cliffs. The distance was seven miles.
Proceeding to the bridge, observed Rubus deltoideus, Pomacea, Quercus tomentosa, Artemisia major, Cycnium, Gaultheria arborea and fruticosa, Buddlæa, Quercus altera, Indigofera cana, Gaylussacia serratoides, Hedera, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Pomacea sauraugifolia, Viburnum cærulescens, Quercus robur budding, Pterogonium, Fragaria, Duchesnia.
The remaining hills were much similar, generally very bare, clothed with partial woods of Q. tomentosa, Rhododendron minus; the oak changing to Q. robur, as we increased our elevation. Near the bridge noticed Bucklandia, Erythrina, which is likewise found at Tongsa, Mæsa salicifolia, Urena lobata, Cnicus, Mimosea! Arbuscula inermis, Senecio scandens in flower, Araliacea subscandens, Didymocarp. contort., a Solenia, Betuloideus, Panax curcifolia, Alnus, Arundo, Anthistiria arundinacea, Cerasus, Tricerta unisexualis, at 6,000 feet.
At about the same elevation Rhododendron minus becomes common, Primula Stuartii, Dipsacus, Verbenacea exostemma, Scleria, Valeriana, Tradescantia on rocks, with Saxifraga ligularia in full flower at 6,500 feet.
About this, 6,500 to 6,800 feet, Spiræa decomposita, Hamamelidea here a tree, occasionally but small, Erythroxyloides, Conyza nivea and communis, Gleichenia major, Parochetus communis on wet dripping rocks, Woodwardia, Clematis ternata.
At 7,000 feet, Berberis asiatica, Q. tomentosa ceased, its place being supplied by Q. robur, Verbascum, Juncus, Gaultheria nummularioid, Mespilus microphyllus, Scirpus fuscus of Tassangsee, Thibaudia gaultherifolia, Rubia cordifolia, Azalea, and Daphne capitulis pendulis, Ranunculus uniflorus, Hydroctyle.
Taseeling is situated about 2,000 feet above the Mateesun, on a nakedish hill; about it there is some cultivation, and one or two villages, one towards Tongsa and above Taseeling of some size. The place itself consists of a large house, with some fine specimens of Cypressus pendula, the east face of the house has the red stripe, indicative of rank. Its elevation is about 7,300 feet, close to the house I observed the Lamium of Bulphai, Bursa pastoris, Oxalis corniculata, Cnicus out of flower, Artemisia major, Fragaria vesca, Daphne pendula and papyracea, Hemiphragma, Composita pendulifolia, Lycopod. of Surureem, Hypericum, Berberis asiatica, Juniperus; Barley cultivation, and a Pomaceous arbuscula, armat. ovar. 5-discretis. The red-legged crow occurs here, and a thrush much resembling our English one. The raven of course occurs. A curious opening occurs in the hills at Taseeling, affording a prospect of the Bag Dooar plains, seven days’ journey distant, but the road is bad.
March 24th.—Leaving Taseeling we commenced to ascend until we rounded a ridge, when we turned to the west, we then commenced to descend, but slightly, winding over undulated surfaces of barrenish hills. After some time we reached heavy tree jungle, the road proceeding in the same undulating manner, so that it was impossible to say whether we had risen or descended. About one we came on the river, up the ravine of which we had been advancing ever since turning to the west. This stream is of some size, very violent and rapid, but fordable. Near this is a large pagoda, built after the old Boodhistical style, and the only respectable one we have yet seen, its site is pretty, and it is ornamented above with eyes and a fiery-red nose. Leaving this we ascended along one bank of the river, until we reached Chindupjee, our halting place; this was distant from the pagoda three miles, and from Taseeling twelve. This latter part reminded me of Bhoomlungtung; firs being the prevailing trees, and the valley having more pretensions to the name than usually happens.
We encamped in a beautiful spot, the house being situated on fine sloping sward, surrounded by picturesque trees of Q. ilecifolia, a few tall Cypressus standing up in the centre. The village is a few feet above, and of average size, although it looks from a little distance to be of considerable size. The march throughout was beautiful, especially after entering the wooded tract; this reminded me of the march near Khegumpa, the woods were here and there very picturesque, glades and swards abounding, water was very abundant here, and this no doubt causes the development of so much vegetation.
At 7,800 feet, Thibaudiaceæ very common, Rhododendron two species, Gaultheria flexuosoides, Thibaudia obovata, Caudata myrtifolia, Hydrangea, which I find to be a climber, Rhododendron majus, commencing, pine wood; chatterers heard here. Hills naked or covered here and there with stunted wood; marshy places common.
At 7,600 feet, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Tetranthera nuda, Sphæropteris, pear and apple, Q. tomentosa, Magnolia grandiflora begins, Polygonum rheoides, Daphne pendula, which is used, as well as the other, both here and in Nepal in the manufacture of paper: brick-red black-pate.
At this same elevation farther on, Rosa hispida! Gillenia, Juncus, Rhododendron deflexa, Smilax gaultherifolia, Spiræa bella, Dipsacus, Spiræa decomposita, Ilex, Vaccinium cyaneum, Magnolia grandiflora very common. The country now becomes more wooded, the woods being confined to moist ravines, and in other situations where water is very plentiful, the woods throughout become continuous, and forming the large forests before mentioned: having the open spaces between the woods covered with sward, on which Gentiana pygmæa, and Fragaria are very common.
As we approached the wood or forest, Pinus cedroides commenced, and towards the valley of Chindupjee this species became very common, Rumex occurred throughout in wet places, also at Taseeling. Geranium is common also in wet places, Stauntonia latifolia, Potentilla, Duchesnoides, Tussilago of Churra, on the confines of wood and on it. Here the orange breasted trochilus occurred. The mass of the wood is formed of a fine Quercus, resembling Q. glauca, it is a beautiful and a shady tree. Next to it in abundance is Rhododendron majus, now in full flower, and forming a beautiful object, Rhododendron minus ceases with the barrener tracts. Magnolia is very conspicuous; Pinus cedroides common towards the pagoda; Eurya not rare, Gaultheria nummulifolia continues throughout, Valeriana violifolia, Oxalis acetoselloides, Bryum, Butia purpurea, Sambucus, Saxifraga of Bulphai, and another species, Bambusa microphylla, Swertia, Luzula, Thibaudia orbicularis, Primula Stuartii, occurred between the commencement of the ascent and the pagoda; at between 7,300 to 7,600 feet, Magnolia odoratis.
At the pagoda and village, Pinus cedroides, P. pendula, Bambusa of Sanah, Mespilus microphyllus, Magnolia grandiflora, Berberis asiatica, Q. anthoxylia, Coriaria, Rosa altera of Bhoomlungtung, Elæagnus, Salix and Allium of Bulphai, occur.
Chindupjee is situated on a rivulet close to the confluence, with a larger stream. Around it, or at least between the village and the larger stream, picturesque patches of sward bordered with a very picturesque oak. Q. ilecifolia occur; this tree predominates all about the village, it is certainly the prettiest place we have yet seen.
Some cultivation occurs around, chiefly of barley, with a little portion of radishes. The valley is surrounded by comparatively low mountains, most of which are rather bare, many are transversely furrowed on the surface, this may arise from their having been at some former period under cultivation.—The prevailing trees on the surrounding heights are firs, Pinus pendula and cedroides. No fish are to be seen in the river. The birds are the raven, white-necked starling, bullfinch, crimson and yellow shrikelets, blue tomtits, lesser ditto with two stripes on the head, white-rumped waterchat, red-tailed chesnuty sparrow.
The plants are Q. ilecifolia, Magnolia grandiflora, Laurinea, Hamamelidioides, Castanea aromatica, Pinus cedroides and pendula, Bambusa microphylla, and B. of Sanah which may be a variety depending on its marshy sites, Rhododendron minus, Salix, Mespilus microphyllus, Gaultheria nummularoides, Elæagnus, Marchantia, Swertia, Rumex, Daphne papyracea, Dipsacus, Artemisia major, Berberis asiatica, Rosa hispida, Rubus cæsius, Stauntonia latifolia, Tofieldioid of Sanah and Pemee, Taxus, Mespilus microphyllus, Ilex dipyrena, Oxalis acetoselloid, Thymus, Lycopodium of Surureem, Juniperus.
Bamboos split and inverted, and then placed in the ground, are used to scare away beasts from the cornfields.
March 26th.—Left at seven and a half and proceeded along the river which runs by Chindupjee, the path running over the spurs of the hills, forming its right bank. After proceeding about four miles, we crossed the nullah, changing our direction, and proceeding up a tributary, until we reached a prettily situated, and rather large village, thence we commenced to ascend over naked slopes with intervening woods, until we reached the base of the chief ascent, which is not very steep, although of good length, chiefly over naked hills. On reaching the summit, which is about 10,000 feet high, we commenced to descend, and the descent continued uninterruptedly and steeply until we reached Rydang, where we halted.
We passed only one village, which is about five miles from Chindupjee, and of similar size; but we passed in the more elevated places two temporary ones, apparently intended for the residence of the herdsmen of yâks or chowry-tailed cows, as a herd of these animals was seen feeding near each place.
The march throughout was beautiful, in the more elevated and drier portions, winding over swardy slopes or through woods of fir trees: on the descent from 9,000 feet downwards, passing through beautiful forests, chiefly of oak, and diversified in every possible way. The long-tailed pie was met with in the first portion, about 7,800 feet, the speckled chatterers at 8,500 feet, red shrikelet at 7,800 feet, and a new hawk at 8,300 feet. I observed the water-ouzel again as high as 8,000 feet. The new plants were a Carex, 6,500 feet, a sileneous plant past flowering, from the same limestone formation.
At 7,800 feet, and not far from Chindupjee, Pinus spinulosa again re-appears, it becomes common towards the village alluded to, and continues throughout the ascent, up to 9,300 feet, P. cedroides was uncommon during the first part of the march, its place being occupied by P. spinulosa, afterwards it re-appeared, and continued abundant up to 9,300 feet, it re-appeared on the descent about the same elevation, and continued to about 8,000 feet. Abies densa commences at the base of the chief ascent: at 10,000 feet, it is the only fir to be seen, it descends but a short way on the Rydang side. In the higher portions it occurred mixed with a Juniper, which in proper places becomes a small but elegant tree.
At the village on 7,000 feet, observed Rosa hispida, Ligustram of Jaisa, Philadelphus, Pinus spinulosa common, as also Pinus cedroides, Bambusa of Sanah very common. Near this, larks were heard soaring high above us.
At 8,500 feet, Pendulous lichens becoming plentiful, Lonicera villosa.
At 9,000 feet, Abies densa appears, Acer sterculium, Betula, Bogh Pata, Rhododendron fruticosa, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis.
At 9,300 feet, Abies densa common, P. cedroides rare, spinulosa 0, pendula 0, Rosa hispida, Gaultheria nummularioid, which as usual continued throughout, Hypnum scolopendroid, Sphagnum, Bogh Pata very common, Rhododendron foliis ellipticis basi cordatis subtus argenteis, which I found on the descent as low as 8,000 feet.
At 9,500 feet, Bogh Pata very common, trees covered with Pendulous lichens, Bambusa of Sanah, Abies densa everywhere.
At 10,000 feet, Abies densa, Juniperus, Rhododendron obovata, foliis subtus argenteis; I am not sure whether this is a variety or not, but it indicates greater elevation than the ferruginous one, Rhododendron gemmis, viscosis, foliis lanceolatis, supra venosis subtus subargenteis very common, Gnaphalium, Mespilus microphyllus, Rosa hispida, Swertia, Berberis spathulata, Orthotuck, Cerastum inflatum, Hemiphragma, Bogh Pata, Primula globifera, Pedicularis, Dicranum nigrescens, etc. Limonia, Laureah.
Daphne papyraceæ occurs at the same elevation, chiefly on the side of the descent. From this place an opening is visible to the north west, occupied by low hills. Juniperus very fine occurs, Compositæ abundant. Snow lies in the hollows and sheltered woods.
At 9,600 feet, Lonicera villosa, Rosa microphylla, Buddlæa purpurescens! Berberis spathulata, Spiræa belloides, Hydrangea! Rhododendron foliis lanceolatis, etc. as above, forming thick woods, Abies densa, Bogh Pata, Bambusa, Limonia lanceolata.
At 9,400 feet, Prunella, Cerastium inflatum, Labiata spicata, Baptisia! High ground 14 to 15,000 feet, is seen forming a lofty heavily snowed ridge to the north.
At 9,000 feet, Pinus cedroides re-appears, Bogh Pata, Rhododendron as before, Daphne papyraceæ, Thibaudia orbicularis, Limonia lanceolata, Dalibarda, Polygonum rheum!
At 8,800 feet, Rhododendron hispida, Abies densa ceased, Limonia lanceolata common, Lonicera villosa, Rebus triphyllus, Acer! Taxus! Primula Stuartii! Rubia cordifolia!!
At 8,500 feet, Chimaphila, Rhododendron obovata-ferrugina! Pinus cedroides, here and there, of immense size, diameter of one-six feet, Lycopodium of Surureem, Bogh Pata, Gaultheria flexuosa, Q. ilecifolia, also a very large and tall tree.
At 8,400 feet, Taxus very common, Smilax gaultherifolia, Olea, Sarcococea very common, Thibaudia orbicularis, Laurinea, Hamameloides. Beautiful glades here occurred, trees covered with mosses: another fine oak, Q. castaneoides commences, Daphne papyraceæ very common, Composita penduliflora, Hemiphragma, Rhododendron elliptica, foliis basi, cordatis subtus punctatis, Ilex! Berberis intermedia, Laurinea uniflora, large Umbellifera of Rodoole descent.
At 8,000 feet, Acer, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron majus! R. argentea commences.
At 7,500 feet, Cedar ceased, Rhododendron majus very common, Taxus diminishing, Sphæropteris, Ericinia soloræfolia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Thibaudia orbicularis ceases.
At 7,300 feet, Berberis pinnata, Spiræa bella, Cycnium, apple tree. Here we emerged on open space in front of a hill, on which several detached houses stood, around which Pinus pendula was very common. Barley cultivation. Several small villages visible around, and to the north, in front of the snowy ridge, a curious truncated mountain was seen, its apex covered with snow.
Magnolia! Conaria! Cycnium, Viburnum canescens! Gaultheria arborea, Berberis intermedia very common, Fragaria.
At 7,200 feet, Q. tomentosa! the others have ceased, Gaultheria fruticosa, Rhododendron arborea, minus and argentea, in fine flower, Eurya æcuminata, Smilax, Gaultherifolia, Thibaudia caudata, Q. robur, Gleichenia major, Salix as before, Artemisia major, Rumex, Valeriana violifolia, Rosa, Berberis asiatica, Ervicia crucifera, Thlaspi, Callitriche, Calamus.
The curious features are, the absence of Thibaudia obovata on the descent, and of Mespilus microphyllus, the substitution of Thibaudia orbicularis, and its low descent, the abundance of Taxus, size of the cedar and Q. ilecifolia, the re-appearance at same elevation of Magnolia grandiflora, occurrence of Rubia cordifolia, at such an elevation, etc.
Rydang is prettily situated towards the bottom of a rather narrow valley. There is a good deal of barley cultivation about it. I also noticed Cycnium, Celopecurus, Acorus Calamus, Corydalis! Fragaria, Cardamina, Rosa, Berberis, Ilex, Plantago, Rumex, Viola, Artemisia major, Daphne papyraceæ, Gentiana pygmæa of Khegumpa, Houttuynia! Pomacea, Callitriche, Dipsacus, Berberis pinnata, Elæagnus, Q. robur, ilecifolia. Of birds the long-tailed pie! is common. Berberis asiatica, Viburnum, Caneun, apple, Quercus microcarpus, Orthodon, Pteris aquilina, Ophiopogon, Angustis, Valeriana violifolia, Urtica urentium, Stellaria media, Eurya acuminata, Betula.
March 27th.—Our march commenced with a steep descent to the Gnee, a river of average size. We then continued descending along it for some time, crossing it once on our way: we then diverged up a small nullah, and then commenced a very steep ascent, of about 2,000 feet. After attaining this, we proceeded through woods, or over sward at about the same elevation, still continuing along the Gnee. We subsequently commenced to descend at first through fine oak woods, then over barren naked hills. We reached Santagoung, about three and a half miles distance in a direct line, but fourteen miles by the road, highest point traversed 8,000 feet; lowest reached 6,000.
During first part of descent, noticed one or two straggling cedars and Taxus, Primula Stuartii, the woods were formed by Quercus robur, tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus, Scabiosa reappears, Clematis nova species, Sambucus, Rubus cresius, Composita pendulifolia, etc. as at Rydang.
Along the Gnee, the beech became plentiful, as also two Viburnums, both trees, together with the Cupulifera of Tongsa was here common and in fine foliage. Juglans, Incerta of Boodoo, Gaultheria, Mimosa arborea, Cupressus pendula, Conaria, Berberis racemosa and pinnata, Quercus microcarpus, Woodwardia, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Marlea! Cucurbitaceæ menispermoides, Alnus of Beesa, Polygonium rheoides, Mespilus microphyllus! Gentiana pygmæa, Salix, Pyrus. The birds were the usual water birds, viz. ouzel, slaty-white rump, slaty-red tail, white-pated chat.
On the smaller nullah Bucklandia, Viburnum microphyllum, Bucklandia!
The ascent was at first through dry woods of Rhododendron minus, Q. tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, a Taxus or two occurred at 7,000 feet, Indigofera cana, Rosa, Gaultheria fruticosa of Sanah aristatum.
At 7,000 feet, the same vegetation continued, Rhododendron minus very common, Pendulous lichens commencing.
At this elevation, in more moist spots, woods thick, differently constituted, Quercus glauescense, Castaneoides ilecifolia, here and there Rhododendron majus, Magnolia grandiflora.
Gaultheria flexuosa, Pinus cedroides rare, Vaccinium cyaneum, Rosa hispida! Saxifraga! Thibaudia orbicularis and caudata, Mespilus microphyllus, Azalea, Ilex, Symplocos, Tussalago of Churra, Acer, Thibaudia obovata, Pendulous mosses abundant.
The remainder of the vegetation afforded little of interest; consisted of stunted oaks, Q. tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus: Serissoides reappears near Santagoung, Pinus longifolia, plantains.
The valley to the left towards Santagoung is on the left side well populated and cultivated.
March 28th.—Santagoung, a small village 6,300 feet above the sea, situated on bare hills, between two loftier ridges. Country around well inhabited and well cultivated in the terrace style: villages numerous. Pinus longifolia, Rosa, Azalea, etc. occur here as before. A lake or jheel was observed 500 feet below the village, of some extent, formed in a natural hollow, abounding with Scirpus trigueter of Churra, and Hydropeltis. Water-fowl, snipe, and red pie-like peewit or plover.
The march commenced with a steep descent, which continued until we reached the river.
Crossing this we ascended 1,000 feet, and then proceeded in an undulating manner over naked hills until we reached Thain, distance six miles; the greatest descent was about 1,800 feet, ascent 1,000 feet; the country naked; no forest. The hills for some extent towards Thain appeared from some cause very red.
But little interesting vegetation occurred: noticed a huge Cypressus pendula, half-way to the Gnee. Vegetation otherwise much the same as towards Tassgong, Valeriana violifolia, Azalea, Campanula linearis, Rubus deltoides, Aspidium macroser., Artemisia major, Pinus longifolia straggling, only plentiful near Thain, Anthistiria minor! Primula Stuartii, Mimulus, Gentiana pumila, Alnus, Flemingia secunda, Morus rubeseoides, Salix, Quercus, Viburnum microphyllum.
At the river Cæsalpinia! Ficus obliqua! Desmodium, Salix, Indigofera cana, Arundo, Luculia.
On the ascent Holcus, Elæagnus, Santalacea, Clematis cana, Senecionoides, Conyza vulgaris, Emblica, Schænanthus, Phyllanthus ruber, Q. tomentosa, Desmodium vestilum, Briedleia obovata! Nerium canum, Euphorbia antiquorum, Jasminum of Benka, Ligustrum conaria, Mesp. microphyllus (are these two species confounded by me, as the larger-leaved one never descends so low?), Lerissoides, Osbeckia linearis, Euphorbia, Gordonia, Gymnobotrys. Red-legged crow; in descent altitude 5,800 feet, the most common plant is a species of Berberis very nearly allied to B. asiatica. Rain in the afternoon.
March 29th.—Mimulus, Acorus Calamus, Quercus robur, Rhododendron minus, P. longifolia, Gymnobotrys, Campanula linearifolia, Rosa tetrapetala, Gordonia, Salix, Verbena officinalis, majus, rugus, Lemna, Gentiana, Hypericum japonica, Indigofera cana, Schænanthus, Senecio, Buddlea of Nulka, Pyrus, wheat, Ervum, Vicia, Potentilla, Q. tomentosa, Cypressus, Ficus, Berberis, Phyllanthus ruber.
Blackbird, sparrow-hawk, and Hoopoe about houses; it has a curious hoop, varied with a grating chirp.
The blackbird frequents houses here; its voice is very discordant and singular, sparrow-hawks were seen to pursue wounded pigeons. Houses few, built of unbaked and large bricks or rather cakes of mud. The village of Wandipore is visible to the south-west, about one and a half mile. Snow on ridges to west, all which are lofty. The country around Wandipore is tolerably populous, though not so much so as about Santagoung.
We were compelled to halt at Phain or Thain, until the 1st instant, owing to the admirable management of the Bhooteas. It appeared at first as if the Zoompoor or Governor of Wandipore was determined that we should not be gainers in time by not going through his castle, but subsequently it turned out that the Deb had, with infinite consideration, wished us to remain in order to rest ourselves after our long journey. This may have been merely said to shelter the Wandipore man, who had the impudence to send one evening to us saying, that the Deb and Durmah were coming to Wandipore next morning, and that we were to meet them there, and return the same evening to Punukha. This turned out untrue. Pemberton was at last compelled to write to the Deb, and the consequence was the arrangement for our advance next morning.
April 1st.—The march to Punukha extended over a most barren dried-up country, the features presented were the same as those about Phain. We proceeded at first in the direction of Wandipore, then diverged, proceeding downwards in the direction of the villages. The remainder of our journey extended either just above the base of the hills, or along the valley: the distance was nine miles. The march was an uninteresting one; the only pretty part being the river that drains the valley, and it is one of considerable size, fordable in but few places; the rapids are frequent, but the intermediate parts flow gently. We were all dreadfully disappointed in the capital, the castle even is by no means so imposing as that of Tongsa or Byagur; the city miserable, consisting of a few mean houses, and about as many ruined ones.
The surrounding cultivation is chiefly poor wheat; the hills the most barren conceivable. On arriving near the palace we made a detour, to avoid exposure to the usual regal insolence: our plan was effectual. From some distance I had espied our quarters, and although our mission is one sent by the most powerful eastern government, yet we had allotted to us a residence fit only for hogs.
It consisted of a court-yard, surrounded by walls, and what had evidently been stabling; the apartments were numerous, but excessively small, the roof of single mats. The place swarmed with vermin. In this we determined not to stay, and so proceeded to the city, (for sure there cannot be a capital without a city,) and there, after some delay, procured two houses, in one of which the present Tongso Pillo had lodged before his present exaltation. But imagine not that it was a palace. The two houses together furnished three habitable rooms.
I imagine not that the houses were procured for us by the local government. We only obtained them by Pemberton’s liberality was well known. The Sepoys’ lines were transported hither not by Bhooteas but by our own people. In addition the people are in many cases insolent, and it was only after a peremptory message to the Deb, stating what the consequences would be of such a system of annoyance, that we got any assistance.
April 3rd.—We have heard nothing of the Mutaguat. It appears that the country is unsettled now. The old Deb having possession of Tassisudon, and the people here declaring they will stop all supplies if the Deb does not, according to custom, repair at the usual period to Tassisudon. A Deewan here, who has held office under four Rajahs, says, that the present truce is owing to the hot weather; Bhooteas only admire fighting in the cold season, in conformation of which, he says that in the cold season the contest will be renewed. There will then be an additional bone of contention for the present. Nor should I much wonder if the Paro Pillo then comes forward and takes the Debship and all away. The Deewan’s account of the past fighting, places the Bhooteas in a most contemptible light: it appears that when they fire a gun, they take no aim, their only aim being to place their bodies as far as possible from the weapon; the deadly discharge is followed up by the deadlier discharge of a stone. At plunder they are more adroit.
The following plants may be found about this place; Ligustrum, Salex pendula, Valeriana orolifolia, Campanula linearis, senecionideæ, Viola, Jasminum, Rosea, Conaria, mangoe one tree in the gardens, Citrus two or three species in ditto, Jubrung, Diospyros, Acorus, Veronica, Ranunculus, Sclerossophalos, Alopecercus, Agrostides, Bombax, stunted weeping cypress, Pinus longifolia, Punica, Dipsacus, Potentilla, Potamogeton 2, Hypericum japonica, Lysimachia, Chenopod, Ajuga, Anisomales.
Birds—great kingfisher, diver snappet, white-pated rumped chats, no ouzels. Part of the gardens extend from the palace up the river to the village; the breadth is fifty to seventy yards, the length 200. They are surrounded by a dilapidated stone fence. Although an Assam malee or gardener resides in them, they are kept in miserable order: the soil seems good, the trees flourishing, mangoe, Diospyros, Jubrung, oranges, citrons, pomegranates, are the principal trees. The south side has a streamlet running along it outside the fence, for the supply of water. This streamlet abounds with Acorus Calamus.
April 9th.—Our interview with the Deb took place. We dismounted at the boards over the streamlets above mentioned, and then proceeded over the wooden bridge across the Patcheen, which is here a wide and deep stream: the bridge was partially lined with guards, in different dresses, few in uniform; it was besides armed with shoulder wall-pieces, capital things for demolishing friends. We then crossed a sort of court-yard and then ascended a steep and extraordinarily bad flight of steps to the door of the palace. Here we found the household troops all dressed in scarlet with two door-keepers, one seated on either side of the door: this led us into a quadrangle. The citadel being in front, the side walls were rather low, although viewed externally they appear of good height, but the ground of the interior is much raised. We crossed this diagonally, passed into the opposite quadrangle on the west side, and thence ascended into a gallery, hung with arms, and filled with followers, from this we passed after a little delay into the Rajah’s room.
This was handsomely decorated with scarfs, the pillars were variously ornamented. The Rajah was seated on an elevated place in the corner, and appeared a good-looking well-bred man. He received the Governor General’s letter from P. with much respect, getting up from his chair: the visit was a short one, and entirely of ceremony. The presents were deposited on a raised bench in his front. Communications were kept up by the Deewan and the Zimpay, formerly Joongar Zoompoor or Governor. On retiring we were presented with fruits, oranges, walnuts, horrid plantains, ghee, eggs and rice.
The whole business went off very well, no attempt at insolence. The concourse of people was greater than I expected. Swarms of Gylongs, the more curious of whom received whacks from leathern straps, wielded by some magisterial brother.
April 10th.—Yesterday we saw the Dhurma, to whom we had to ascend by several flight of steps, which are most break-neck things, the steps overlapping in front, and being often lined with iron on the part most subject to be worn. We found him in the south room of the upper story of the citadel. We waived our right to sitting in his presence as the question was put to us with respect and delicacy. The Rajah is a good looking boy, of eight or ten years old: he was seated in the centre, but in an obscure part of the room, and was not surrounded by many immediate attendants. The balcony was filled with scribes with handsome black, gilt, lettered books before them. Two other scribes were likewise engaged on our right, noting down what passed, but they seemed to be very bad writers. The visit went off well. The room was tastily, but not so profusely ornamented with scarfs as was the Deb’s.
On returning we found the household guard drawn up in front to prevent our passing out without paying a fee. This matter was soon settled forcibly, and the durwan, or door-keeper, lost by his impudence the present he would otherwise have had from P., besides being in a great fright lest the affair should be reported to the Rajah.
April 11th.—The rains appear to have set in: the sky is constantly overcast, and showers are by no means unfrequent. One of our dawks arrived opened: this no doubt took place in the palace, although the Deb strenuously denies it. Messengers are to be sent to Tassgoung, where the accident is said to have happened. The cause of its having been opened, is no doubt the report that there was a letter in it from the old Deb.
April 14th.—A violent squall unaccompanied by rain, came on yesterday from the west: roofs were flying about in every direction, and many accidents occurred from the falling of the stones by which they were secured. Part of the palace was unroofed. The storm has stopped all our amusements, particularly as the Gylongs attribute it to our firing. The Kacharies, our servants, were likewise requested not to play any more on the esplanade. This is just as it has been in every other place in Bootan, nothing is said against amusement until the presents have been received, and then we are requested to do nothing, and the authorities become disobliging!
The potters fashion their earthenware entirely with their hands, the upper half is finished on a flat board; the lower being added afterwards; the finishing is done chiefly by a wet rag, the operator revolving around the pot. The vessels chiefly used for carrying water are oval, these are covered with black glaze.
Some Didymocarpi very fragrant, one near Chindupjee most grateful, resembling quince and sandal wood; the odour is permanent, and appears to reside in the young leaves before their expansion: Iris, Hypericum, Viola, Ligust., Ranunculus, Verbasena, Gymnostomum, Serratula arenaria, Veronica.
CHAPTER XIII.
Return of the Mission from Bootan.
May 9th, 1838.—We left Punukha at twelve, having been delayed throughout the morning, on account of coolies. We crossed the palace precints, and the two bridges unmolested. Our road lay in the direction of our entering Punukha for some time, but on the opposite bank of the river. We gradually descended throughout this portion. Then at about eight miles turning round a ridge, we followed a ravine to the west, some distance above its base, gradually descending to the watercourse draining it. Thence we ascended in a very circuitous route to Talagoung, the castle of which is in a ruinous state: it is visible from the place whence one turns to the westward.
Up to this point, which was certainly 1,200 feet above Punukha, no change occurred in the vegetation. The country remained barren, the ravines in favourable places being clothed with underwood, and as we increased our elevation, with trees. Noticed a Bupleurum, Viburnum sp., Ficus obliqua.
At 3,500 feet, Sambucus, Bupleurum sp., Potentilla as before, Gentiana pinnata, Serissoides, Campanula.
At 3,800 to 4,000 feet, Pinus longifolia more common though still a stunted tree; Emblica, Pæderia cyaneum, Q. tomentosa, Primula Stuartii, Parochetus, Pogonantherum, this is a most common grass about here, it becomes more stunted as we proceed lower, and its extreme elevation does not exceed 6,000 feet, Acorus very common, Adhatoda!
At 4,000 feet, Simool, Dipsacus as before, Aspidium, Macrodon, Rhododendron minus re-appears.
On rounding the ridge, although we did not increase our elevation, the country became more wooded. In some places Q. robur, Gordonia, Pyrus were common, others and the greater portion were composed of Pinus longifolia, Bucklandia re-appears at 4,500 feet, Azalea, Saccharum aristatum, Hedera, Didymocarpus contortus, on rocks.
Towards the nullah we passed a village with some wheat and buckwheat cultivation; Plantago, Ranunculus, Thymus, were interspersed. Along the watercourse Symplocos styracifolius, which becomes a middling-sized tree, was seen, and Stellaria cana, petalis albis profunda partitus, as well as S. media.
Our section was as follows:
Telagoung is a middling-sized, dilapidated castle, in which it is settled the first blood is to be shed in the forthcoming contest, it is occupied by the old Deb’s men. Up to its walls, thickets abound, and the fragrant rose was very conspicuous.
Its elevation is about 5,600 feet, yet a Ficus may be seen planted by the side of Cupressus pendula, and Punica thrives. The change in temperature was very great. Birds abounded throughout; a new sombre-coloured dove was shot by P.: the most common birds were the orange-billed shrike of towards Tumashoo.
May 10th.—We left Telagoung at 7 A.M. and descended instantly to a small nullah, from which we re-ascended. The ascent continued without intermission, occasionally gradually, but generally rather steep for three or four hours. The descent occupied about as long, and about three-fifths the distance, following nearly throughout a small nullah. Woollakkoo, our halting place, is a good-sized village, and fourteen and a half miles from Telagoung.
To the nullah I observed Stellaria cana, Berberis asiatica, which has re-appeared, Erythrina, Rubus deltoid, which is very common all over these parts and whose fruit is palatable, Uvularia, Swertia plantaginifolia, Cæsalpinia, Mimulus, and Urtica foliis apice erosis.
The ascent commenced through woods of Q. robur, the shrubs consisting of Gaultheria fragrans and arborea, a Myrsinea, Thibaudia serrata, whose inferior limit is here, Rhododendron minus, but not very common. A good deal of wheat cultivation and of better quality occurred at 6,500 feet, assuming Telagoung as 5,600 feet, Pteris aquilina common throughout and up to 10,000 feet.
At 8,000 feet, Taxus re-appears, with Baptisia in flower, Thibaudia orbicularis, Luzula of Chindupjee, Smilax gaultherifolia, Thibaudia obovata, Fragaria vesca, which continues throughout, and has a range of between 3 to 10,000 feet, Bambusa microphylla, and Acer sterculiacea appear, woods of Q. ilecifolia, up to 7,200 feet, chiefly of Q. robur, Gaultheriæ two common ones, occur commonly.
At 8,500 feet, the woods composed chiefly of Q. castaneoides and glaucum, Q. ilecifolia less common. No Q. robur, path-like glades and rather open, Pythonium ecaudata, up to 9,000 feet, Primula pulcherrima very common.
At 8,500 feet, Saxifraga of Khegumpa and of Chindupjee, Mitella,! Luzula, Carex, Viola reniformis, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Hedera, Ilex, Mercurialis, grey lichens.
Taxus, Quercus, Rhododendron, another species foliis subtus ferrugineo-argenteis floribus rosaceis.
Smilacina, Ophiopogon, Urtica carnosa decumbens, Limonia laureola, Pythonium ecaudatum.
At the same elevation and indeed below us, but on other ridges, cedars were seen in abundance: Hydrangea and Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Epilobium sp. withered.
At 7,800 feet, Aristolochia novum genus, Tritium glaucum, Thlaspi, Arabis cordata, Loranthus, Symplocos sessiliflora.
At 7,900 feet, Lardizabalea.
At 8,000 feet, Hamiltonia?
At 9,000 feet, Crucifera floribus amplis albis, on mossy banks, with Mitella, Spiræa densa.
Acer sterculiacea in forests, Cerasi sp. common.
Betula, Ribes, Arenaria, Lilium giganteum, Laurinea, Chimaphila, Acer.
At 9,300 feet, Rhododendron hispida and rosaceum, Taxus, Pythonium filiformia, Trillium album, Salvia of Royle, Rhododendron ferrugineo and obovata, Smilacinia densiflora, Sarcococea, Daphne cannabinum, here in flower, Anemone, Prunella, Hemiphragma, Cedar, but rare.
At 9,700 feet, Primula Stuartii in flower lower down, but here quite past, Corydalis linetta, Viola, Juniperus, Viburnum floribus magnis albis, Rhododendron deflexa, in flower. Acer: 1, vel. 2, Cerasi sp. altera, Paris polyphylla, and from 7,000 feet, Iris foliis angustis, Cerasus apetalus gathered below here a shrub, very common, Osmundia alia, Berberis ilecifolia and integrifolia, Rosa microphylla, Spinis latis, Baptisia, Corydalis altior floribus luteis, Aconiti sp., Papaveracea succo aqueo, ferrugineo hispida, capsula siliquosa, 3-valvis, replis totidem, stigmata radiata, 5-lobo. Prunella, Betula, Ranunculus minimus, Carex, Mimulus! Sambucus of below, Salvia of Royle, Polytrichum rubescens.
From the ridge the view to the south is pretty, the country undulated, either naked and swardy, or clothed with firs.
Abies spinulosa commences: and is soon succeeded by Pinus pendula, which, as we proceeded lower, soon became the chief tree; Rhododendron obovata finely in flower, Lilium giganteum common. Trillium stratum, Ribes lacineat.
Q. ilecifolia re-appears 500 or 600 feet below the ridge, Pinus spinulosa common, with a Salix, grey pendulous lichens.
At 6,000 feet, P. pendula, Mespilus microphyllus, Larix, Rumex, which has occurred throughout, Salvia alia viscosa foliis subhastatis trilobis, Cycnia, Astragaloides! bracteis subvaginant magnis, Rosa latispina becomes very common.
At 8,800 feet, Hedera, Hamiltonia re-appears, Galium sp., Juncus, Oxlip, Clematis, Salix, very common.
At 8,500 feet, a village is seen to the right; Q. ilecifolia is the chief tree, with P. pendula, Azalea, Baptisia, Pomacea of Rydang, Rhododendron arbor. minus. Red-legged crow, pine chatterers.
At 8,000 feet, Baptisia continues; all alpine vegetation ceased; Rhododendron minus continues, Q. ilecifolia, but no Corydalis, Anemone, Iris, etc. although Oxlip does; Salix continues.
The descent to the halting place is marked by return to the old vegetation indicated by re-appearance of Elæagnus fragrans and Rosa tetrapetala, Valeriana violifolia.
Baptisia rotundifolia and oblonga, this last a tree very common, Pinus pendula chief tree, Pomacea celastufolia, Elæagnus fragrans, Rosa tetrapetala, very common along the nullah, Baptisia continues low down, as Oxlip, Stauntonia alba, Viburnum, Asteroides, Jasminum luteum, Tussilago, Spiræa bella, found about the level of this.
All the monocotyledons have a defined elevation; Smilacina cordifolia is the lowest, except Uvularia, Lilacineæ and Trillium, are the highest, not being found much under 10,000 feet. There is an Osmundia likewise on the ridge, the fronds below are not contracted, it is ferrugineo-tomentosa. Hemiphragma has a wide range, between 6 and 10,000 feet: Salvia nubigena of Royle, confined to 10,000 feet, Aconitum, Corydalis lutea, lenella and cærulea, Prunus penduliflora, Papaveracea, Juniperus, Rhododendron obovata, Silacinea, Cerasus apetala, Ribes 2, are sure signs of elevation.
If the Mimulus be the same as that from Punukha, it has a very wide range, as also Lilium giganteum, Pythonium filiformeis, limited, as well as ecaudata, Crucifera, Anemone, Laurinea, Polytrichium, were all definite. Mitella ranges between 9 and 9,500 feet, it is strange that the chief variety in vegetation occurred on the Telagoung side, on which springs are rare. No Thibaudias occurred on the other side, Euphorbia was confined to the Woollakkoo side, as also Primula, etc. etc. The chief cultivation about Woollakkoo is of wheat, but from the mode of cultivation the plant is evidently adapted for irrigation; rice is also cultivated. This is perhaps its maximum height. The hills around are covered here and there with snow, and must therefore be above 10,000 feet high. The highest were to the north-west.
The river is of moderate size, fordable in most places, but still well supplied with wooden bridges. Fish, in shoals too, were seen here and there.
May 11th.—Our march continued down this river throughout: we left its banks once or twice owing to ascending some hundred feet above its bed, occasionally it spread out, but generally was confined between the rocks. Its banks in some places were planted with weeping willows. The vegetation throughout was much the same. The most common plants were Rosa, this literally abounds, Pinus pendula, Viburnum grandiflora, a Symphoria! Cratægus 2 species, Mespilus microphyllus, Lantonea, Jasminum luteum, Berberis asiatica and obovata, Plectranthus canus, Elæagnus fragrans, Stellaria cana, Colquhounia, Indigofera sp. altera, Baptisia did not re-appear, Euphorbia continues, as does the Celastrus noticed yesterday, which commences at 8,500 feet.
Cycnia re-appears, it is in fruit, the cotyledons are not conduplicate. In the fields Stachys, Potentilla (common), Brumus, Lamium of Khegumpa, Cynoglossum, Thlaspi, Datura in waste places, Conaria, rare, Imperata! Scabiosa of Bulphai.
A low shrub abounded on the road sides and walls, having all the characters of Plumbago, a Lantonea likewise abounded, Fragaria, Swertia, Taraxacum, Cardamina lilacina, Herminu sp., Marchantia, Astragalus, Ranunculus; Carex, Potentilla supina, Potamogeton, Clematis grata, Poplars were seen; of these, Taraxacum very common. Quercus robur re-appears towards Lamnoo, as well as Juglans and Populus.
Weeping cypresses about villages, Hordeum hexastichum is commonly cultivated, A. Buddlæa floribus lilacinis noticed yesterday was found, its range is 8,500 to 7,500 feet, Zanthoxyla here.
A cuckoo was shot; this bird would seem to be as in Europe attended by the Yunx, at least a cry very similar to that of that bird was heard. Lysimachia of Punukha, Campanula re-appears.
The most common bird is Lanuis. The sombre-coloured dove too is rather common. The wheat cultivated here is poor, a good deal of the Bromus occurs with it. Astragalus is common on the borders of the fields, and in some of them Ervum, Lamium and Vicia.
The whole upper surface of the column of Aristolochia of Telagoung, is viscid and stigmatic, and likewise the margins of the depressions in which the anthers are lodged, it is certainly akin to Rafflesiaceæ.
May 12th.—Proceeded to Chupcha, our march to, and indeed beyond Panga, seven miles from Lamnoo, was through exactly similar country. The hills naked or clothed with firs, the path lay along the river Teemboo chiefly, but occasionally we met with one or two stiff ascents. On reaching Panga it was determined to push on to Chupcha, which was said to be but a short way off; we started, and descended after some time to the river, above which Panga is elevated about 1,000 feet. We continued along the river until we commenced to ascend towards Chupcha, this ascent was very long and rather steep, the road tolerably good. We found Chupcha to be ten miles from Panga, and 8,000 feet high, the greatest height we crossed being 8,600 feet, and this day we were told, that all our climbings had ceased. The road was generally bad, and well furnished with rocks: in one place we passed from 100 yards along the perpendicular face of a cliff, the Teemboo roaring underneath, the road was built up with slippery slabs of stone. The country was generally very pretty, the scenery along the river being very picturesque. We passed a waterfall of considerable size, which is Turner’s Minzapeeza. After leaving Panga we came on an uninhabited country, nor did we see more than one village, until we reached the ridge immediately above Chupcha, 1,000 feet above this, there is a very large village inhabited by Gylongs, the bare summit of the hill rising an equal height above it; snow visible to the south. The greatest distance we descended was 6,500 feet, the greatest height 8,500 feet. The distance seventeen miles, the longest march we have yet had.
The vegetation was nearly the same up to the time we turned off towards Chupcha, it was characterized by a profusion of Rosa, among which the Cratæga, Symphorema, (which is less common than towards Woollakkoo,) Rhamnus, Viburnum grandiflorum, Pinus pendula, Thymus, Cycnium.
In grassy banks of fields between Panga and Lamnoo, Astragalus, Ervum, Vicia, Aster major, Rumex, Agrostia, in fields Hieraciæ sp., Caricia sp., Lactuca, Bromus.
Salix pendula about villages. After leaving Panga we came on to a place called Minzapeeza, here Adiantum, Aspidium? Hamamelidea, Cedrela? Rhus, Galium, Tussilago, Saxifraga ligularis, Valeriana violifolia, Smilax flexuosa, Aruncus, Sarcococea, Azalea.
Rhododendron minus recommenced after leaving the river towards Panga, a straggling cedar or two occurred, Populus rotundifol. very common, Gaultheria arborea.
About Panga, Lithospermum, Oxalis corniculata, Umbellifera, from the flowers of which moud is made, Rubus, Arabis, Taxacum, Dipsacus.
Beyond the waterfall the Quercus robur became common, forming beautiful woods, it continued throughout until we re-descended to the river, range 7 to 7,500 feet. In these woods formed likewise by Pinus pendula, Convallaria cirrhosa appeared, Rubia cordifolia, hispida, Paris polyphylla, Aralia cissifolia, Mitella, Ribes! Spiræa, Asparagus, Epipactis, Avularia, Houttuynia! Arum viviparum on rocks, Duchesmium, Populus oblonga occurred also, Coriaria! Hedera common, Benthamia common.
On rocks along the river, Peperomia, 4-phylla, Populus oblonga, Acer sterculiacea! Symphoria alia! Indigofera, Salix, Cedrela, Sassafras, arbor facie, Gordonia, Vitis, Syringa, Serissa, Buddlæa, Sedum on rocks, Eriophon ditto, Campanula cana, Pinus pendula, Rosa, Convallarium cirrhosa, Polygonum robustum, foliis cordatis.
The ascent up to 7,500 feet, was marked by similar vegetation: up to this point the prevailing shrubs gradually disappeared, they were never so common as about Panga. Quercus robur having ceased, was succeeded by Quercus ferruginea, which is much like Quercus ilecifolia, and has very coriaceous leaves, this again at 7,500 feet, was succeeded by Quercus ilecifolia, Dipsacus up to this, Pteris aquilina, Gaultheria arborea.
At 7,600 feet, Rhododendron oblonga, a most beautiful species, Calyce discoideo commenced, as also Rhodora deflexa and Rhodoracea ochrolenea, which is, I think, that I before noticed as R. elliptica, foliis basi cordatis subtus argenteis et punctatis, Euphorbia occurs also here, as also the Rosa, Berberis asiatica.
At 8,000 feet, the trees were covered with grey lichens, and assumed the usual highly picturesque appearance: noticed Primula Stuartii in flower (Symphoria! ceased), Euphorbia, Gaultheria nummularifolia commences, Artemisia major, Cratægus odoratus continues, Saxifraga ligularis common up to this, Ribes commences, Gaultheria of Bulphai, Galum, Hyperici sp., Lilium giganteum, Clematis grata, Populus species, do not ascend above this.
At 8,500 feet, Rhododendron minus, Rhododendron oblonga, ochroleucum, Coccineum appears, Ribes, Smilax sanguinea, Gaultheria of Bulphai very common, arborea stunted, Limonia major, Clematis grata! Rhododendron hispida, Potentilla, Pteris aquilina, Berberis asiatica, Mespilus microphyllus, Gnaphalium, Swertia, Viola, Patrinum! Elæagnus fragrans! Thymus, which ranges from 6 to 10,000 feet, Euphorbia, Pedicularis, Cycnii sp., Mimulus, Rhodora deflexa, Pinus pendula, Quercus ilecifolia, both stunted, Pteris aquilina.
The descent to the village was about 500 feet, Arenarium on rocks, Mimulus, Viola, Rumex, Juncus, Acorus veronica, Anagallis, Pythonium of Blake, Euphorbia, Pedicularis, Carex, Mespilus microphyllus: pine chatterers throughout, at least above 7,000 feet.
The summit, which was certainly 9,500 feet, was completely bare: Pinus pendula ascends a long way.
Chupcha—Hordeum hexastichor in beautiful order, the chief cultivation. Red-legged crow; larger dove. The form of the country traversed is as follows:-
At Diglea we had an opportunity of seeing the mode of building in this part of Bootan; the houses are made of mud, which is trampled and beat down by men, who perform sundry strange evolutions while so employed; the mud is beat down in a frame-work; it is from the different layers formed that the lines seen outside finished houses result. The mode is slow, but must give great firmness.
May 14th.—Ascended to the Gylong village, above Chupcha, and then to the naked ridge. The village may be estimated as being 8,700 or 8,800 feet above the sea, and that part of the ridge to which I ascended as 9,800 or 10,000 feet. The ascent is uninterrupted up to the village; it winds through a fine fir wood, after diverging from the road to Panga, after that it is quite open, scarcely a shrub being met with until the ridge is surmounted. On turning to its northern face, woody vegetation becomes pretty abundant, and 500 feet below, woods occur. This is contrary to what usually happens; the south faces of mountains being supposed to be better wooded than the others, but in Bootan the difference would seem to be due to the piercing winds blowing from south, or up the ravine of the Teemboo. The scenery was very pretty, both in the woods before reaching the village, and from the ridge: vast quantities of snow visible to the north and north-east. I ascended to within 1,000 feet of snow, and I think that at this season, an elevation of 11,000 feet is required in open places to secure the presence of snow: it is obvious that local circumstances, such as shelter, etc. may cause it to descend nearly to 9,000 feet, and it is as obvious that snow will descend lower down a mountain of 15,000 feet high than one of 12,000; the difference in the beds of snow causing a greater reduction of temperature in the one than in the other. In an isolated mountain, an elevation of 11,000 feet will be required for the presence of snow in May.
At 8,000 feet, Baptisia, Viburnum canum, Umbellifera toxicaria, Colquhounia, Deutzia, the Symphoria of Teemboo.
At 8,200 feet, Salix, Abies spinulosa straggling, Rhododendron microphylla commences, the bruised has a terebenthaceous odour, Ilex, Gaultheria flexuosa, Parus major: variegated shortwing, Papilio machaonires.
At 8,300 feet, Saxifraga ligularis.
At 8,400 to 8,500 feet, Limonia, Viburnum grandiflorum or canum, Berberis asiatica, Mespilus microphyllus, Populus oblonga, Rhododendron ochrolena, Clematis grata viola lutea,* Epipactis, Hemiphragma.
At 8,700 feet, Rhododendron microphyllum very common, Ribes, Bupleuri sp.,* Rosa fructibus hispidis,* Rubia hispida, Sambucus, Berberis integrifolia, an vero distincta.
At 8,800 feet, Viola pusilla, Fragaria vesca and lutea, Baptisia, Rosa, Sphærostemma, Clematis grata, Pinus pendula, etc.
At 9,000 feet, commencement of sward, no trees, except stunted shrubs of Pinus pendula, Mespilus microphyllus, Baptisia, Gnaphalium Pedicularis,* Rosa, Bistorta,* leaves with margins not united to the margins of pitchers of Nepenthes and Cephalotus, Pteris aquilina, Prunella, Rhododendron microphyllum, Euphorbia, Taxaxacum, Potentilla, Thymus, Primula Stuartii.
At 9,100 feet, Hyperica brachiata of Moflong.
At 9,300 feet, Morina Wallichiana, Osmundioid, Dipsacus, Scabiosa? capitulo nutanta, Verbascum, Juncus, Epilobia sp.
At 9,400 feet, Salix shrubby, Cyperus fuscescens of Tassangsee, dwarfed Larix.
At 9,500 feet, Anemona aurea commences, covering in some places the sward; it straggles down in favourable places with Iris angustifolia, to 9,300 feet, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron microphyllum, Gnaphalia, Euphrasia.
At 9,800 feet, southern face of ridge bare, northern thickety, consisting of Rhododendron fruticosum, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis punctato lepidotis, Salix, Berberis, Pyrus aria, Bambusa, Tetranthera.
In wet sheltered spots, Iris angustifolia, Aconitum, foliis aconitoideum, on the sward Euphorbia radians. Below this a little, woods commence chiefly of Bogh Pata, Cerasus, Salix, Rosa fructibus hispidis, Acers, Abelia? Viburnum niveum, Hydrangea arbuscula, non-scandens, Berberis integrifolia. The woods are open, the open spaces occupied by remains of last summer’s vegetation, as Compositæ, Umbelliferæ, Aquilegium, a plant five or six feet high, folii aconitoidie, etc. Epilobium.
Among these in the woods, Trillia sp., Saxifraga reniformis, Liliacea Brodidoid, Viola, Primula purpurea, a lovely species, Aconiti sp., Papaveracea hirsuta foliis, Aconitoid very common, Orchideæ, Ribes sanguina, Composita penduliflora, Arenaria pusilla of above Telagoung, Polygoni sp., pusilla repens hirsuit foliis cordata ovatis, vel reniformibus subtus purpurescent, Salvia nubicola? Euphorbia coccinea.
Abies densa appears, as also close to the Gylong village, from this elevation upwards, it is common.
Abies spinulosa common on north face at 9,000 feet, Abies pendula ascends on south side as high as 9,300 feet, but is stunted beyond 9,000 feet, it does not exist on north face.
Primula Stuartii throughout, very abundant.
The plants most limited were Papaveracea, Aconitum folium aconitoideum, Saxif. reniformis, Primula purpuria, Euphorbia radians, Rhododendron cereum, mentioned above, and another at 9,800 feet with similar leaves, but normal flowers, Abelia, Cerasus, Trillii sp., Anemona, Iris, Bistorta, Ribes, A. densa.
The most dispersed are Euphorbia coccinea, Salix, Bogh Pata, Mespilus microphyllus, Cyperus fuscus, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron microphyllum.
Hordeum hexastichum gives fine produce here; nothing can exceed it in appearance, oats also occur mixed with it, but is not sown, at least, it occurs rarely on walls, Arabis, Magus stolonifer, Juglans in villages, (Ribes Juniperus in the Gylong village), Acorus, Carex, Stellaria cana, Media, Caltha, and Thlaspi.
The temperature is delightful, thermometer 46° at 7 A.M., 52° in the middle of the day.
May 15th.—Left Chupcha for Chuka, distant seventeen miles. Our march commenced by a very steep and indeed almost precipitous descent to the nullah, at the foot of Chupcha, of 1,800 feet. Thence we ascended gradually until we reached a temple visible from Chupcha, at which place we returned to the course along the Teemboo. The remainder of the road undulating, varying in level from 6,000 to 6,500 feet, until we commenced the descent to Chuka, which was long and tedious: we reached this at 5½ P.M. The road latterly was very bad, we passed Punukha, a small village, about 300 feet below our path. The mountains closing in the Teemboo continue lofty, at least 9,000 feet. Iris, cedars, and Abies densa, were common on the loftier parts.
We passed some beautiful places, indeed the march throughout was pretty. The vegetation was beautiful, owing to the quantity of water on the road, a stream occupying each hollow, round many of which we wound. Glades and pieces of green sward were not uncommon.
The Lamium of Bulphai is found about Chupcha. On the descent to the nullah the following plants were found.
At 7,000 feet, Iris commences, with a species of Lychnis, ground bare and rocky, Umbellifera cana, Umb., from which moud is prepared, common.
At 6,800 feet, Quercus ferruginea commences, on rocks here Stemodium ruderalis, Santonica of Panga, etc., Convallaria cirrhosa.
At 6,500 feet, Hedera common, Aristolochia tetrarima, Berberis obovata, Viburnum cærulescens, Filix ferrugineo tomentosa, Pteris dealbata.
Iris common to 6,500 feet, continues lower down, but scarce. Along the nullah, which is a middling-sized torrent, Rhus, Cederela toone, Acer sterculiacea, Hamamelis, Fici sp., scandens, Rhus, Juglandifolia! Populus oblonga, Sassafras, on the ascent to the temple, Populus of very large size, and the above trees. Fraxinus floribunda, Osmundia in profusion, Aristolochia tetrarima, Scabiosa of Bulphai, Prunella, Fragaria vesca, Duchesnum, Sarcococea, Elæagnus fragrans, Galium of Panga cascade, Corydalis, which continues to Chuka, but is scarce below 5,000 feet, Deutzia, Lilium giganteum, Uvularia very common, Primula Stuartii, Woodwardia (scarce), Pythonium pallidium, Campanula cana, Panax herbacieæ 2 species, Rhododendron agaleoides of ridge above Chupcha, Buddlæa cana, Ranunculus of Taseeling, Benthamia, Anemona ranunculacea, Buxus, Delphinum sp.? common, Gaultheria nummularifolia, Jasminum lutium, Conaria. This ascent was about 500 feet. Long-tailed pie seen here, red-billed shrikelet, first met with towards Tumashoo, common now as far down as 4,500 feet.
On passing the temple, or rather before coming to it, we changed the vegetation which became of the ordinary dry character. Woods of Q. ferruginea mixed with Pinus pendula, Benthamia, Pteris aquilina, Viburnum cærulescens, Conaria, Polygonum of Teemboo, Rhododendron minus, Gaultheria arborea.
The remainder of the march consisted of a series of winding round spurs: at about an average elevation of 6,000 feet found a Pythonium foliis pedalis, spad. apice filiformo recurvo, vel erecto, spathe viridi, Didymocarpea odora contuso terebinthaceo, Solanum nigrum, Succulent urticeæ, Scabiosa of Bulphai, Gnaphalium, Polygonum globiferum, Scirpus eriophorus, Hippocratia angulata, Mitella, in damp spots, Cycnium, but rare, Sarcococea, Impatiens two species, one at 6,500 feet, with a creeping plant, foliis ranunculaceis floribus solitariis hypocrateriform albis. No Buxus or Delphinum was observed, in any other glens than the first crossed. Alnus became common soon, the pines disappeared, Osmundia common, Primula rotundifolia, Paris polyphylla, Bletia as of Churra at Punukha, Sphæropteris.
In some places Rhododendron minus common, and with it Quercus ferruginea, Rubia hirsuta, not uncommon throughout as far as 15,000 feet, Thalictroides majus, Houttuynia, Betula.
In glades, Smilax gaultherifolia, in a wood round the marsh a Pomaceous tree: on the march, Swertia, Peloria, Carex stricta, and of Chupcha, Spiranthes rubriflora, Berberis pinnata, Saxifraga of Bulphai occur here.
Still further on, the forest assumed the appearance of those towards Khegumpa. Q. robur, recommences, cedars straggle down; Pinus pendula, more common, Arenariæ sp., Lomaria of Khegumpa, Hottoneoides ranunculofolia common, Luzula, Sedi sp., Sambucus common throughout in shady spots, Radsuræ sp., Daphne papyracea, rare, Acer sterculiacea common, Sabia, Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Hamiltonia, this last common to 4,500 feet.
On wet rocks Hutchinsia, Arenaria, succulent Urticea. In woods Cucurbitacea cessifolia, Ajugæ sp., Polygonum rheoides. On open spots, Benthamium in flower, Gaultheria arborea, here of large size, pines cease without changing the elevation, Q. ferruginea ceased, this is limited to dry spots.
The first change indicated by the appearance of Laurineæ, and Symplocos among oaks and chesnuts. The woods continued thick for some time, but on commencing the descent, which is gradual, especially at first, Q. robur is common, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus.
At 5,500 feet Hottonia, Rubia hirsuta, Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Phytolacea, also at 6,500 feet, and as low as 4,000 feet, Senecio scandens, Verbenacea of Dgin appears, Uvularia, Duchesnia, Polygonum rheoides.
Umbellifera gigantea, Potentilla supina appear, Pythonium recurvum, Rhus, Dipsacus of Churra, Alnus, Pomacea macrophylla, Stauntonia angustifolia, Photinea parviflora, Benthamea disappears, in flower at least, Didymocarpea, Rhamnus, and also at 5,000 feet, Fragaria vesca, in fruit! Paris, Curculigo pygmæa appears, Sedum continues and ceases at 4,500 feet, Ranunculus of Taseeling found also as low as 3,600 feet, Daphne nutans appears. This found first near Taseeling, found as low as 4,000 feet, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron minus, Viburnum cærulescens continue, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Rubus deltoideus appears.
At 4,500 feet, a Malvaceæ Sidoides, Erythrina, Rosa fragrans, Pythonium sp. majus, spadicis apice filiformi 2-pedali, Incerta of Taseeling, Ribesioides, Quercus ferruginoides, Indigofera major, Berberis obovata, in fruit.