To show how these matters are managed on board a man-of-war, I give the report of the affair: "At 7h. 30m., J. D. (O. S.) fell overboard; hove to; lowered a boat; wore ship, and picked him up. At 8, wore, and stood upon our course." If a man had slipped upon the pavement, and you had assisted him to rise by extending your hand, the fact could hardly have been explained in fewer words. But it is this indifference to danger, and the casualties of his calling, that makes up the efficiency of the sailor.
On the twenty-third day of April we were obliged to lay to in lat. 38° 26' south, and longitude 45° 34' 47'' east, by chronometer, and on parts of the first, third, and fourth days of May had to undergo the same operation. This was by no means pleasant, as, owing to the weight of our battery, we rolled very much; and as we could not close the ports entirely, for fear of carrying them away, had a constant flow of water across the deck, sometimes very difficult to bear up against.
On the tenth of May, at about 5 P. M., all hands were called to reef topsails, and a forecastle man, who was hurrying aloft to assist his companions on the foreyard, fell from only a few rattlings above the sheerpole upon the deck, and injured himself so severely as to cause his death early the next morning. Poor fellow!
Nor friends, nor sacred home."
His remains were committed to the deep, at meridian of the same day; and many a manly fellow among his messmates and the crew added a briny drop to the wave
And wept in compassion for him.
The ship, as if loth to leave the spot, lingered there; for it fell calm, and by the next meridian we had logged but seven miles.
CHAPTER III.
Island of St. Paul—Steering for JavaHead—Land ho!—Christmas Island—Straits of Sunda—A Beautiful Scene—Sentimental Simile—Come to Anchor—Anger Point—Village of Anger—On Shore in Java—Perfume of the East—Banyan Tree—The Governor and Dutch Hotel Keeper—Welcome at an Inn—Attack on Anger Fort—Dutch Officers' prowess, and French!—The Javanese—Chinaman—Mosque—Mahomet—Bazaar—Watering Place.
To make the island of Saint Paul in the Indian Ocean, became now our principal object, but baffling and adverse winds delayed us. At last during a stormy night the longitude of this island was obtained, and we steered as well as we were able for Java Head and the Straits of Sunda. Upon the twenty-fifth day of May at ten minutes past four, P. M., the welcome cry of "Land ho!" was heard at the mast head, which was found to be Christmas Island, and which we also passed in the night too late to make any observations.
We were, however, more certain now of the correctness of our position, and when, at daylight on the 27th, Trower's and Clapp's islands were made, felt sure of soon seeing Java Head, and in a short time this long looked for landmark greeted our eyes. Here we entered the Straits formed by the approximation of the islands of Java and Sumatra, and called the Straits of Sunda.
The night of our entrance was one of some anxiety, and between this feeling and the excitement of making land after a long and boisterous passage, caused a pretty general watch to be kept by idlers and all.
It was in the morning watch—Prince's Island had been safely passed, and the principal dangers of the passage overcome, when seated upon the foreyard a scene of beauty opened upon my eyes, which it may be long before they are greeted with again. We were heading up the Straits, and from my position the highlands of both islands were in sight. The morning air was soft and balmy, and came laden with sweet odors, as if Aurora had lingered to inhale them upon the "Spice island."
We were being wafted along almost imperceptibly, with but so slight an undulation as scarcely to be felt. To the eastward rose a high peak on Sumatra, around which the sky was rosy with the day god's first beams. The gentle waters around us were still in shadow, with sufficient light, however, upon their surface to enable the eye to take in their expanse, and to distinguish objects upon them. In the distance, and approaching, was a brig looking like a tiny toy, with British colors at her gaff, beating out of the Straits. As the sun, climbing still higher the side of the obstructing mountain, diffused his gladdening light over this magnificent scene, the idea struck me, and call it sentimental if you will, that it was like the first blush suffusing the face of a fair young bride, ere the full glad assurance of her happiness comes in all its power to convert it into a bright, beaming smile. So did these rosy rays overspread the face of nature, and enliven every feature.
On the twenty-ninth of May, came to anchor at Anger Point off the village of Anger (pronounced Anjier), a Dutch settlement. Of course the desire to get on shore was general after being over seventy days on ship-board, and my feet were among the first of those which touched the soil of Java.
What struck me first as we approached the shore, was that remarkable perfume which every one notices as peculiar to the East.
A magnificent banyan tree, which literally spreads itself over the landing, next became an object of attraction; of its exact spread or height I was not informed, but the natives muster in numbers under its branches, and the Dutch Governor uses it to display the signal of his authority—the flag of his nation.
The governor of this district, whose pardon I must crave for allowing his name just now to slip from my memory, has, here at Anger, a very fine house and extensive grounds kept in admirable order, and appeared to enjoy himself in this out-of-the-way place, but as he possessed a young, pretty, and interesting companion, in the shape of a little wife, had a perfect right to do so, especially being
Whilst his next door neighbor, Mr. Van-Sy Something or other, having a house nearly as comfortable, used it as a hotel, if hotel that can be called, in which you have permission to wait upon yourself, and are charged extravagantly for the privilege, whilst its proprietor pays his devoirs (devours?) to his bottle of Schnapps, from which his lips are seldom removed, excepting to receive his pipe, and to sputter out some delectable Dutch. Thought of Wm. Shenstone's "Warmest Welcome at an Inn," and wished the poet had been compelled to "put up" with this same Dutchman as a species of "poetical justice," for placing the purchased pleasures of a public house before the sacred and free gifts of home.
There is a fort here in good repair and kept in excellent order, and I was informed that a short time previous to our arrival it had been attacked by the natives, who were repulsed with great slaughter. The attack was fierce and vigorous, but as the Malays were not possessed of fire-arms, and made the assault with only their naked creeses, they were easily repulsed. Was told of the tremendous execution done by one gun in throwing grape amongst them, but I felt a little inclined to doubt its efficiency upon examining its bore.
The attacking Malays were not those of the immediate vicinity, whose prowess, from their appearance, I should be inclined to doubt, but came from the mountains, an unconquered people, who continually make war upon the invaders of their soil. I was greatly amused by the recital of his part in the affair, by a non-commissioned officer, who informed me that he was born a Belgian, and gave his story in broken French, broken in words as well as grammar, for he had been imbibing something stronger than water. It appeared that his valiant self and two others equally brave—one a Frenchman, the other a Prussian—had been selected to serve as a picket, or avante garde, as he termed it, some distance from the fort, at a place called the "Barrier." When at midnight they heard the approach of the enemy. "Je mette mon fusil à mon bras," he said; "et à le Francais je di, Prenez—garde! A le Prusse"—hesitating—"Prenez garde! aussi, et nous faissons un grande detour,—et—et, nous eschappons. Et voila, monsieur," he continued, pointing to the stripes upon his arm, "Je suis sous officier donc. Je suis caporal de la garde,—le meme comme Napoleon,—le petit Caporal." With a hearty laugh we bade "le petit Caporal" bon nuit, and returned to our hotel, asking ourselves what need there could be for the Philosopher's Stone, whilst there existed such a talisman as Conceit?
The Javanese are called Malays, whilst the inhabitants of the neighboring island of Sumatra also claim the same appellation. From their rules for government, their religion, and other distinctive marks, I would consider them connected with the Arabian race.
Polygamy is permitted amongst them, and they are allowed to possess wives according to their means. Ouseman, our compradore, and a rajah, told me he had three, all living peaceably together at his house. Think of that, ye of the Caucasian race, who, with more means, find it difficult to get along with one, and in a colder climate too!
Came upon a Chinaman here, a real Fa-qui, tail, costume and all, and for aught I know may have seen the individual before, for he informed me that he had been to the United States—"America" he called them—and had sojourned in Boston, and this too with as strict regard to the memory of Lindley Murray, and in as good English as we have heard from many a denizen of that second Athens. He also proved that he had profited by his residence abroad, for he cheated us entirely to our satisfaction, and with such a grace as almost to make us fear he was robbing himself, and only exchanged his articles for our coin, out of respect for our country. These Chinese are truly said to be an imitative people.
They have a place of worship here, called a Mosque, where I was told the Prophet was worshipped. Hearing, one night, a great noise within its sacred precincts, I ventured in,—not without many mutterings of dissatisfaction from the Malays assembled at its threshold,—and looked upon a large room dimly lighted, without any visible presence of the Prophet, although a large chair was raised in the centre of it for him to rest upon, and a parcel of half-clad wretches were grovelling around its feet, with cries piteous enough to have brought him down even from the lap of the most beautiful of his dark-eyed houris, had he one-half of that humanity for which his worshippers gave him credit. I was told that these were sick persons, and their friends, praying for relief:—a very commendable thing in a place where there were none but commissioned surgeons, provided Mahomet has as much skill in medicine now, as he possessed over these gentlemen in his methods of amputation when he practised here below.
Visited the market-place, called Bazaar. Found all kinds of tropical fruits in great abundance: cocoanuts, bananas, plantains, mangusteens, &c. &c., and what proved its general use, at every stall, large quantities of the betel-nut were exposed for sale. This nut is used for its exhilarating properties, and is chewed as is tobacco; but whether its juice is swallowed, I cannot say. It blackens the teeth, and must prove very efficacious in destroying the enamel. Indeed, from the practice they have of filing their teeth across, and the use of this acid, it is a wonder that any thing should remain but blackened stumps.
Watered ship here, from a reservoir, supplied by an aqueduct from the mountains, a distance of some leagues. The water is good, and the supply appears sufficient, although I cannot commend the construction of the channel through which it is brought. It is of stone, and stuccoed, raised about two feet from the level of the road, and open at the top. During a short walk along this road, I saw numbers of Malay women using its waters for the purpose of ablution; and I could not count the number of the various reptiles of this prolific clime, who, lured by their deceitful flow, had met a watery death.
To show the economy of its construction, I may state, that it is brought across a small stream, through bamboo troughs, so loosely attached that sufficient water is wasted in its passage to turn a small mill in Yankee land.
The first day of June weighed anchor, and stood up the Straits; and a busy time, too, we had in getting through. It was "Let go the anchor!" "Furl sails!" "All hands up anchor!" "Make sail!" for several days. At last, this channel and the Straits of Gaspar being passed, we entered safely the China Sea.
CHAPTER IV.
China Sea—Anchor off Macào—Canton River—Whampoa—Trip to Canton—The San-pan—Pagodas—Lob Creek—Salt Junks—Description of a Junk—Mandarin, or Search Boats—Pirates—Crowded state of River at Canton—Land at Factory Stairs—Visit Vice-Consul—New China Street—A Cow-House—Wonders of Canton—Factory Gardens—Water Parties—Buddhist Temples, and Holy Pigs—Dock-yard at Whampoa—American Missionary at Newtown—Bethel, and its Pastor—Fourth of July—Back to Macào—The Typa—The Barrier.
The southwest monsoon wafted us quietly and quickly over the China Sea, and upon the nineteenth of June we came to anchor off Macào, in the outer roads. Not finding the flag-ship there, as was expected, after taking in some provisions from the naval depôt, weighed anchor, and proceeded up the Canton River to Whampoa, where we moored ship in the "American Reach" to undergo necessary repairs. Whilst these were going on, I procured a "fast boat," and went up to Canton, about nine miles above that part of the "Reach" in which we lay.
These boats—the "San-pan," or boat of this country—are used expressly for the conveyance of passengers and their effects, and are kept scrupulously clean for that purpose. They pull from three to six oars, according to their size. The oarsmen are all seated forwards, whilst a woman, generally with a child fastened to her back, both propels and steers with a long oar from the stern, which she manages with great dexterity, appearing to work harder, and with better effect, than her lazy lord, (who has generally the bow oar,) at the same time keeping a bright lookout ahead, and giving warning in her guttural chant of any obstruction.
Passed two Pagodas, each of nine stories, and made a romantic cut-off, via Lob Creek. Soon we came upon a large number of junks at anchor, with huge manilla cables,—one of which our interpreter pointed out as "Salt Junk." We had seen enough of that during our passage out, but this kind of junk interested us; for a more clumsy piece of naval architecture could hardly have been invented to annoy the eye of a sailor. With her perpendicular masts of one stick, no bowsprit, only an opening where it should be, to receive an anchor, made of part of a crooked tree; poop sticking up like a game fowl's tail, and immense red and white eyes painted on each bow:—for the Chinese sailor says: "No have eyes, how can see? no can see, how can walkee?"—make such a picture of a thing to float in, and wherewith to transport worldly effects, that the question naturally arises, What would be the probable per centage a Chinese underwriter would demand as premium to insure in such a bottom? Indeed, I must do the memory of the patriarch Noah the justice to believe, that his craft was put together with a better adaptation to the principles of flotation than this, or it would never have lived through that gale of forty days and forty nights, logged in the Good Book.
Soon, however, we came across some better-looking specimens, which we were told were the "Mandarin," or "Search Boats," belonging to the Chinese Customs. Their models appeared better adapted to "make walkee," and, in addition to sails, they had double banks of oars.
At what I took to be the Navy Yard, saw some English hulls, which had been built upon, and which, in spite of all this eccentric people could do to change their appearance, still looked ship-shaped. There were also some sharp-looking junks being built, which I was told were to be fitted out against the pirates; but, if what I afterwards learned be true, they were more likely to become piratical craft themselves; for it was reported that the person to whose charge they were to have been consigned had been extensively engaged in that business himself, until he was interfered with by the English, who broke up his fleet; and that now he had humbugged the Chinese government into giving him another. At least, so ran the rumor.
As we approached the Factories, it seemed almost impossible to make our way through the immense number of boats and other craft which appeared to play hide-and-seek amongst the larger junks moored in every direction in the stream; but, thanks to the skill of our female pilot, we avoided all collision, and brought up safely at the Factory stairs. It was excessively hot; and as we walked across the Factory Gardens to the Consulate, the effects of the sun upon the clean glossy walks was painful to the eyes.
After paying our respects to the Vice-Consul, took a short turn up New China Street to make a few necessary purchases, and then threaded our way back to Acow's Hotel,—facetiously termed by one of the party who had the remembrances of dainty spreads at the "Astor" and "Irving House" in his mind, "a cow house!"
Here we had "tiffin,"—Anglice, lunch,—and then disposed ourselves as well as we could for comfort and cool air, neither of which did we obtain; nor what our parched throats so loudly called for,—cool water. Acow had no ice; so our only recourse was to procure bottles of "aerated water,"—we called it "Pop," in our ignorance, and to send them where truth is said to reside,—the bottom of a well.
As the sun declined, walked out to view the wonders of Canton; and although it was Sunday, found the streets thronged with coolies carrying heavy burdens of merchandise, slung on bamboos resting on their shoulders, plying backwards and forwards on their different errands, in a jog trot, with a loud grunt;—the grunt as much to relieve them, as to give warning to those in their way. Passed through different streets in the neighborhood of the Factories, all composed of shops, from which long-tailed Chinamen rushed out, chinchinning, and soliciting our custom. These streets have a great similarity, and a description of one would answer for all. With the exception of some that are devoted to the sale of particular articles, as the Street of Tailors, and Curiosity Street, they differ only in the appearance of the article exposed for sale. They are quite narrow and used only by pedestrians. The only quadruped I recollect seeing in them was a diminutive jackass, standing before a shop in "Old China Street." How he came there, or for what purpose, I could not determine. It may have been out of compliment to the "Foreign Devils," that his long ears were exhibited; but if his position was illusive, in one relation it failed; for, despite these appendages, the beast did not enter the shop.
The gardens I found the most attractive. They are in front of the different factories, and over them floats the flag of the nation, opposite its respective consulate. They cover several acres, and are well laid out, planted with every variety of tree and shrub, and are kept in admirable order. Formerly, I understood, there had been a partition wall between the English and American portions, but this had lately been removed, as I hope may be all causes of division between the two governments.
Towards evening these gardens are frequented by nearly all of the European population, who stroll about to enjoy the breezes from the water after the heat of the day.
A number of Parsees are daily to be seen, with their long, white, and scrupulously clean linen surtouts, turbans, or else bugshaped caps, wide trousers, just appearing beneath their white coats (an improvement on the Bloomer costume, I thought), and shoes pointed at the toes with pieces of some kind of metal, turned up, after the fashion of what the boys call "high dutch" in skates, at home.
Witnessed the worship of one of this strange sect, and his devotions to his fire god in his setting, appeared as sincere, at least, as those of many, who consider themselves more favored in being able to look "through nature, up to nature's God."
A Fanqui, or foreigner, finds himself much circumscribed in his peregrinations about Canton. With the few narrow streets above mentioned, and the open space in front of the factories, he must fain be content; but upon the water his way is more open, and the European and American residents avail themselves of the broad river to launch and sail their most beautiful boats, as also to use the hong boats, san-pans, fast, and flower-boats, fitted up in every style of luxury. In these, after the business of the day is over, and the heat of the sun abated, parties pass their evenings, in smoking segars and conversation.
Across the river are some Buddhist temples, in which shaven priests are almost continually engaged in "chin chinnings," and where are kept some holy pigs in a state of continual surfeit. The very last animal I should think of holding sacred.
There are some gardens in the suburbs of Canton, said to be worthy of a visit, but these I had no opportunity to see.
After exhausting my patience and finances at "Acow's," I returned to the ship to explore the environs of Whampoa. Our anchorage was at the head of the Reach, opposite a ship yard in "Newtown," where a large ship, the Prince de Joinville, was then in dock undergoing repairs. This yard was at that time in the possession of a Mr. Cowper, a yankee, if I am not misinformed, but had been originally established by a Chinaman. Every thing necessary for repairing a vessel appeared to be on hand, and Mr. C. was then engaged in coppering the one on his dock.
Whampoa Reach is the anchorage for merchantmen, and is the most convenient place to Canton for that purpose. A large number of vessels were here receiving and awaiting cargoes, and the daily arrivals and departures of ships give it a cheerful aspect.
The old town of Whampoa is strictly Chinese, and separated from contact with the "outside barbarian," as much as is Canton, by its walls. It is true, you may be allowed to pass its gates, but run a risk of being hustled and pelted out of their vicinity.
Newtown is composed of traders, who are gradually leaving the "old town," which is some distance below, and is called Bamboo town. Both of these places are accessible, and have the interminable lane of shops, all the "same same," as in Canton.
Called upon Mr. Bonny, an American Missionary, who was then a resident at Newtown, but who hoped soon to settle in Whampoa, and was making arrangements for a house within its walls. He appeared devoted to his vocation, with strong hopes of success. Found him (it was night) engaged with several Chinese, the principal men of the village, to whom he was exhibiting a magic lantern, with which they seemed greatly pleased. It was a very superior instrument, and an excellent method of conveying to unpractised minds, many things, which otherwise must have remained mysteries to them. The motion of the earth, for instance, illustrated by a ship rising above the horizon—the sidereal system, and the eclipses of the moon. He describes the population of this vicinity as being very dense, and ignorant. Their belief resembles the ancient mythology, for they have their Jupiter Tonans, or "thunder god," and other deities similar to those worshipped by the more classical heathen of Rome and Greece. He has succeeded in partially disabusing the minds of some, but finds it requires great efforts to eradicate ideas so strongly implanted. May he have success in his disinterested labors! I should have earlier mentioned that Mr. Bonny speaks the Chinese language, and appears to convey his ideas with much fluency.
There is a bethel, or floating "seaman's chapel," anchored in the "Reach," which was presided over by the Rev. George Loomis, whom I had the pleasure to hear deliver an excellent discourse from the text: "And by one man sin entered into the world, and death by sin." In the course of his remarks he made a beautiful and touching allusion to the deaths of those two great men, Sir Robert Peel and General Taylor, the news of which had just reached us by mail.
Was pleased to see a numerous and attentive audience of shipmasters and seamen, and from the frank and pleasing address of Mr. L. cannot doubt but that he will have great success with this class of men.
The bethel was in itself a very neat affair. The place devoted to public worship being about fifty feet by thirty, prepared with admirable adaptation for that purpose, and well ventilated. It contained, besides apartments for the pastor, a fine reading room, where a number of foreign papers were regularly filed, and a good library kept. Its roof was flat, and above this was another covering of matting which formed a fine sheltered promenade. Indeed, a building could hardly have been planned ashore, comprising more commodious, convenient, or comfortable quarters, and I am indebted to its cool retreat for the remembrance of many an hour passed pleasantly.
The Anniversary of our National Independence came round whilst we lay in Whampoa. It was recognized with due honor. The ship dressed with flags, and a national salute fired at meridian. A dinner was given to the officers by the American shipmasters and residents of the "Reach," which passed off very pleasantly. The usual quantity of champagne and patriotism expended. Toasts proposed and drank, and the fact generally conceded that the United States were the greatest states on the face of the globe, and the "United Staters" the greatest people.
Our repairs completed we unmoored, and commenced to back and fill down the river until we had cleared the shipping, and then taking advantage of the tide, got into the bay and headed for Macào. Found the flagship at anchor in the outer roads, and after saluting and communicating with the Commodore, went into the Typa, and moored there.
The Typa is an anchorage inside the harbor, and is so called from an island which protects it from the sea. It has from four to four and a half fathoms water, and of course cannot be entered by very large vessels. Although in former times the largest sized East-Indiamen have gone in. They are now forced, if stopping at Macào, to anchor outside, abreast the town, and some four or five miles off.
Hong-Shan river, or the Broadway, commences here, and is a kind of a cut-off, navigated by junks from Canton to Macào.
The city of Macào, called first by the Portuguese, Port da Macao, from the name of a Chinese idol found there, is called Gaou, or Ou-moon by the Chinese, and occupies the southernmost point of the island of Heang-Shan.
After the discovery of the passage to the East Indies around the Cape of Good Hope, by De Gama, who landed on the Malabar Coast in 1498, the Portuguese continued to navigate these seas, and were allowed by the Chinese a shelter on this point. In the year 1550, having obtained a foothold, by degrees they built themselves stone houses and forts, and commenced the foundation of a city.
About this time, they had established a profitable commerce with Japan, China, and the Eastern Islands, and this settlement became the centre of an extensive trade, which increased until Macào grew into a place of considerable importance.
The Chinese government, however, in granting this favor to the Portuguese fenced it around with their usual caution, and placed many restrictions upon them. The point upon which Macào stands, is almost separated from the Island, the connection being an Isthmus of about three hundred feet; across which, about three miles from the Praya, a wall is built through which is a gateway, guarded by Chinese soldiers, and beyond which the Portuguese were not allowed to pass; and their municipal government was restricted to the barrier. It was placed there in 1573.
When we were there the guard had been removed, and a part of the wall thrown down; the Governor Amaral having broken through more barriers than this, previous to his murder—of which, anon.
CHAPTER V.
Passage Ashore—A-ti—The Praya—Forts—Governor's Road—Description of Macào—Murder of Amaral—Manoeuvring of Seu and his Triumph—A new Governor—His Death—Council of Government—View from Guia Fort—Marques' Garden—Camoen's Grotto—Epitaph and Doggerel written there—A Beautiful Spot—Stealing Fire from the Gods—Fate of Prometheus.
Leaving the Typa in a fast boat, we were soon opposite the town, when we were obliged to re-embark on board one of a fleet of Tanka boats, which put out from the shore as soon as our buttons were discovered. Tanka means eggboat; they resemble an eggshell divided longitudinally, and are peculiar to Macào, the shoalness of the water preventing a landing in larger vessels. Were captured by A-ti, a laughing Chinese nymph, with a splendid set of the whitest teeth, and landed safely on the Praya, after purchasing our ransom with a Spanish coin, in value twenty-five cents.
The Praya is a fine promenade, extending in a semi-circle along the entire front of the city. On each of its points is a fortification, and at its right extremity the Plaza. On the part which winds past the Plaza, are placed stone seats, which are of a nature to retain much of the caloric dispensed by the sun during the hot days in summer.
This walk is well paved, with a stanch sea wall to protect it from the waves, which come in with considerable force, especially in the Typhoon season. It commands a view of the neighboring islands, the Typa and outer roads.
Back of the town, and overlooking it, is a hill, on which is placed an extensive work, called Fort Monte, which not only commands the town but the approaches from its rear.
From beyond the Campo gate, a fine, smooth, and well graded carriage way extends to the "Barrier;" and to the right of the "Gate," on an eminence, stands a well placed fort having guns bearing upon the Barrier.
There appear, indeed, to be forts wherever one can be stuck, and the wonder in regard to some of them is, how they ever got the guns into them, so inaccessible do they seem.
On the Governor's road, about three fourths of a mile from the town, is a fine garden, belonging to a French Abbè. It is arranged with much taste: in its centre was a small mosque-like temple, whilst at each corner of the enclosure were towers of the same style. The road is the favorite promenade and drive, and upon it, at the season when we were there, were to be seen some very fine equipages, principally belonging to persons from Hong-Kong and Canton.
Macào, like other Portuguese towns, has many churches and its quantum of priests. The cathedral is the best looking building, although not so large as some of the others. It had lately been repaired, and both internally and externally presented a gay and gaudy appearance, in strong contrast with the decayed condition of the houses surrounding it.
There is the ruin of the church of "Mater Dei," which had been destroyed by fire, the entire front of which still stands, covered with carving, a majestic monument of the pride and power of Rome.
The other churches, although their interiors are kept in some repair for the purpose of worship, have crumbling and mouldering walls, proving that "Tempus, edax rerum" has not spared them, and in the absence of rejuvenating art, still uses his remorseless tooth upon the softening stone.
Indeed, what strikes the stranger most sadly and forcibly as he saunters through the streets, is the universal evidence of decay. It is melancholy to see buildings, which must once have been magnificent, slowly sinking into rain. The mind cannot help picturing these buildings, brilliant with beauty, and resounding with festivity, when Macào was the depôt for the trade with China, with a fleet of all nations filling its harbor, and its storehouses teeming with the rich merchandise of the East.
But British perseverance, and Yankee enterprise, have asserted the supremacy of the Anglo-Saxon race, and the vessels, which formerly made this their port after their voyage around the Cape, now discharge and receive their cargoes at Whampoa and Hong-Kong, whilst only occasionally the masts of a man of war, or of some straggling merchantman, are to be seen in the harbor of Macào.
The murder of Amaral in 1849, is said to have produced a prejudicial effect upon the interests of Macào, but I cannot see how that could have influenced it in this manner, as the difficulty had not extended to open war, and a Chinaman would have been willing to trade if he found it profitable, even should such have been the case; and had the Portuguese artillery been echoing amongst the rocky hills of Ou-moon, you would have found him seeking the almighty dollar
The particulars of the Governor's murder, as I could obtain them, are these: Ioao Maria Ferreira do Amaral, Governor of the provinces of Macào, Timor, and Solor, was assassinated near the "Barrier," on the 22d day of August, 1849. It appeared by the confession of Chang-asin, alias Chou-asin, that an acquaintance of his, named Shing-Chi-liang, on account of the Governor having made roads without the Campo gates, by which the graves of his ancestors were destroyed, was so enraged thereat, that he determined to murder him in order to satisfy his revenge. For the purpose of assisting in this design he hired two Chinese, Ko-Ahong and Li-Apau, and charged Chou-asin, together with two other Chinamen, Chou-ayan and Chen-afat, to act as guards to prevent people from approaching. To this they all agreed, and hearing that the Governor would go out on that day for recreation, proceeded to waylay him.
Towards evening, when it was twilight, Shing-Chi-liang seeing Amaral, the Governor, approach on horseback, went up to him under the pretence that he had a petition to hand him, saying that he had a complaint to prefer, and whilst Amaral was stretching out his hand to receive the paper, Shing-Chi-liang drew a sharp knife he had concealed in the handle of his umbrella, and commenced stabbing him in the arm and shoulder, until he fell from his horse, when Shing-Chi-liang immediately cut off his head and hand, and they all ran, each his own way. Chou-ayan and Chen-afat were killed in an engagement with the English, having, with himself, fled to Hiang-Kang, a seaport, from whence they went over to the pirates, and he was afterwards seized by the Chinese government and taken to Canton, where, after making this confession, he prayed for mercy.
A long and not very amicable correspondence was held by a Portuguese Council of Government, formed at Macào upon Amaral's death, and Seu, Governor-General at Canton, in which the Council demanded the head and hand of their murdered Governor, and Seu required in return three Chinese soldiers, (arrested by the Portuguese authorities at the Barrier gate after the murder, and detained in prison at Macào, as accessory to the deed,) as an exchange for the remains of the Governor. The Council denounced this demand as infamous, denied the soldiers, and put the question to Seu, if he intended to keep possession of these mutilated remains of a brave man, cowardly slain, because he is conscious of having acquired them by means which, in his judgment, give him a right to traffic with them, regardless of constituting himself by this act a participator in the crime which gave them into his possession; also adding, that, protesting against his conduct, they would hold him responsible for the assassination of the Most Excellent Governor Amaral, and for the retention of his hand and head, which they would make known to the world by means of a manifesto.
Seu answered, that the murderer of Amaral, Shing-Chi-liang, had been apprehended, tried, sentenced, and executed.
That in consequence of his confession, the place where the head and hand had been buried was discovered, and that a deputed officer had been sent to deliver them up, but the council still detaining the three soldiers apprehended at the Barrier, the officer did not dare to take upon himself the responsibility, and concludes his dispatch, with true Chinese sententiousness, in these words: "Here is the cause of the delay and of this confusion. All things should be managed with reflection, and in a proper way. Obstinacy cannot bring affairs to a conclusion," &c., &c.
Upon the 29th of the November succeeding, the Council published their manifesto, in which Seu and the Chinese authorities are accused of connivance in the murder of Amaral. This, Seu, who is evidently not to be written down, answers by accounting for the disposal of the murderer of the Governor, and his accomplices, and sends the confession of Chou-asin. Matters remained in this position until the 24th of December of the same year, when the Macào Council sent the three Chinese prisoners to Seu, and assuming that these men, on duty at the time at the Barrier, were at least cognizant of the murder of Amaral, demand their trial, informing Seu at the same time, that in placing them in his hands, they hold him responsible for them. When Seu had obtained these men, after some delay, he sends the head and hand, which were delivered to a commission appointed by the Council to receive them, on board a Lorcha, off the Praya Grande. They were conveyed to the cathedral, and after funeral service had been performed, placed in consecrated ground with solemn ceremony. Thus His Excellency Governor-General Sen gained his point. What became of the three Chinamen I did not learn, but suppose they were allowed to escape.
A new governor was commissioned and sent out in the Portuguese corvette Don Joas Primero. Pedro Alexandrino da Cunha, captain in the royal navy, reached Macào on the second of May, 1850, and immediately assumed the reins of government.
It was now supposed that something more efficacious than writing would be resorted to; but he died very suddenly on the sixth of July following, within about one month before the anniversary of the assassination of his predecessor. A singular coincidence.
Some have been bold enough to assert that his sudden demise was to be attributed to the effects of poison administered by Chinese servants, bribed by their government, but I think that the report of his death from cholera is correct.
After the death of Da Cunha, the administration of government devolved again upon the "Council," of which D. Jeronimo Joze de Matta, Bishop of the Province, was the head, assisted by a Chief Justice, Mayor, Judge, Procurator, and Fiscal.
This was not very popular, as what government can be, to a declining people, who will not exert themselves, but complain to Hercules, without putting their own shoulders to the wheel.
The walks in the neighborhood of Macào are pleasant, and the views very fine; among the best are those from Penha hill on the southern point of the peninsula, and Guia fort on its northern side. From the latter position the entire possessions of this Portuguese province can be comprised at a glance, and Macào lies beneath you a miniature city, with pigmies moving along the Praya and its principal streets. This fort, from its commanding position, is used as a telegraphic station, and news of any unusual event is communicated to the town by signals.
From its elevated ramparts the eye takes in the course of the Hong-shan, or "Broadway;" Casa Branca; Ilha Verda; Camoen's grotto; the Barrier and Barrier forts; the harbors, both inner and outer; the Lapa hills, and numerous islands, as far as it can reach.
Camoen's grotto is situated on an eminence within the grounds of a Portuguese gentleman, Senhor L. Marques, which, without the attraction which would draw one to the poet's place of meditation, are themselves well worthy of a visit.
I went there in company with some Peruvian gentlemen, and was at first doubtful of the propriety of trespassing upon private property, but my scruples being overcome by my curiosity, and the assurance of one of the Peruvians that his acquaintance with the Senhor Marques would be a sufficient passport, we proceeded.
Upon passing his mansion, and sending up our cards, learned from a Coolie of the absence of its master, and entered unhesitatingly upon his grounds. Descending a few steps we came to a splendid aviary placed in the centre of the avenue. It was about fifteen feet in diameter and twenty in height, and contained quite a variety of beautiful birds.
The grounds are very extensive, covering entirely one of the hills upon which Macào is built, and are well laid out in broad smooth avenues fringed with rare trees and shrubs, but
For want of human travel."
After walking some distance, had to ascend a path, which leading along a dividing wall, brought us over the roofs of the Chinese houses in the town below, and reminded us of the position of "Le diable boiteux" of Le Sage, although I doubted if we could have gained as much information as that personage did, had we possessed his powers. From this part of the garden is a fine view of the inner harbor and the Praya Manduco. Still ascending, upon the highest point found Camoen's grotto. It had originally been an arched rock, but part of the arch giving way, has been walled into a square enclosure, in which a pedestal of corresponding proportions has been placed which sustains a bust of the great Portuguese poet. Upon tablets set in the four sides of the pedestal are inscribed appropriate verses from his poem—the Lusiad; whilst in another place upon a stone set in the rock, is an epitaph in the French language, but the most appropriate sentiment was expressed in this couplet pencilled on the side of the grotto:
Not less the child of fame than misery."
Another poet degenerated into doggerel, and desecrated the spot by the following impromptu, which, as he had the delicacy not to scribble on Camoen's Cave, I transcribe for his benefit.