Khartoum, and the Blue and White Niles, Vol. 1 (of 2)

The Citadel of Cairo — Mosque of Mehemet Ali — Moslem Carnival — The College of Dervishes — Curious religious ceremony — Presentation to the Viceroy — The Nepaulese Ambassador — Visit of the ladies to Ibrahim Pasha’s hareem.

On the heights, behind Cairo, rises the citadel, commanding a splendid view of the city, and of the surrounding country. It forms the eastern boundary of Cairo, and is strongly fortified and garrisoned. From its ramparts, the spectator may survey all the public buildings, which rear their stately minarets and cupolas on every side. Chief among these, is a mosque founded by Mehemet Ali, and now nearly completed. It is an extensive structure of stone, supported by twelve massive pillars, formed of large pieces of Oriental alabaster, and surmounted by a lofty and capacious dome, and two minarets of great height and beauty. A large quadrangle, in the centre of which is a covered fountain, of polished alabaster, gives a character of solemn quietude to the whole. But it is impossible to do justice to the grandeur and beauty of the interior of the edifice, which, when finished, will exceed in magnificence the far-famed mosque of St. Sophia.

The majestic proportions of the dome, empanelled to the very top with blue and gold, rise from many rows of stately pillars, superbly polished, and gleaming in the light like mirrors, while the vast walls and floor are of purest marble. The expansive ceilings are overlaid with gold, and rich blue mosaic, producing a most imposing effect, subdued by the chaste elegance of the alabaster columns. Hundreds of gilt chains hang down from the roof, to which lamps may be attached during festivals.

The structure is in the form of a Maltese Cross, and I should suppose the interior to be larger than our St. Paul’s; but as hundreds of men were at work there at the time of our visit, I could only make a guess at its dimensions.

Only three of the mosques are open to the inspection of Europeans; and these have, from some circumstance or other, almost lost their sacred character in the eyes of the natives. One was polluted by Napoleon, who converted it into a stable, quartering a regiment of cavalry in its holiest precincts. Another is the mosque of Hassan—a very large building, inclosing a square, in the centre of which is a magnificent fountain, where the devout, carrying out the Moslem ritual, may perform their ablutions before they enter the place of prayer. Four spacious arches surround the quadrangle, one of which spans the pulpit, and another extends itself over the reading-desk.

Our stay at Cairo was enlivened by a Moslem festival, which lasted four days. It seemed to be a sort of carnival, and booths were erected under the trees, the coffee-houses were crowded, every one turned out in holiday attire, and some of the dresses were magnificent. No one could be induced to work, and the feasting was general and lavish.

I witnessed a curious religious ceremony at the college of Dervishes. Entering a large court-yard, I found between twenty and thirty persons seated on cane divans, smoking pipes, and apparently waiting the time appointed for commencing the service. A young boy offered me a seat, and invited me to take a pipe and some coffee; so indiscriminate and spontaneous are Eastern hospitality and courtesy, displayed even to strangers, in the most public places. After a considerable interval, we took off our shoes, and entered a spacious hall, rising to a dome of great height, and hung round with knives, bucklers, and bows. Five Dervishes were seated in a circle in the centre, on sheepskins; and round the sides of the hall, bear and tiger skins were spread for visitors. The Dervishes were now joined by others, and by a crowd of devotees, on which they all began a low and rather monotonous chant, though the effect, from the union of so many voices, was not inharmonious. The Dervishes now numbered thirteen, but the devotees, who seemed equally zealous, amounted to twenty-four, and were composed of a captain in the army, a janissary, three or four soldiers, several men in rich dresses, and a residue of beggars. Gradually their tones rose higher, and they marked time with a motion of the body, swinging gently from side to side. As the chanting grew louder, the swinging became more violent, till, after an interval of about half an hour, they suddenly became silent, and, jumping to their feet, threw off their coats and waistcoats, and ranged themselves in a row, still standing on the sheepskins. The singing was now resumed, and the whole party began to swing their heads backwards and forwards; at first gently, but gradually declining lower and lower both before and behind, till their heads almost touched the ground each way, at every oscillation. So rapid was the motion, that I counted fifty declinations in a minute.

From time to time, the dervishes left their places, in regular rotation, and, rushing into the circle, incited the devotees to accelerate their movements, seizing each by the hands, and making him a profound bow. Suddenly a dervish darted round, and tore from every head its cap or turban, which he flung into a heap in the middle of the hall. On this two half naked negroes started up, and whirled furiously round on one toe, keeping their arms outstretched, and moving so rapidly, that the eye could scarcely follow them. In about a quarter of an hour they stopped with the same abruptness, but only for an instant; they commenced jumping to and fro, sometimes rising three feet from the ground, and one young dervish, who joined in the exhibition, performed feats that were worthy of Risley. This ended the first act, but so exhausted had the performers become, that when, after a brief interval, the second act commenced, only nine came forward; for the third there were only four. As a denouement, one of the most zealous of these fanatics, who had become excited into a perfect frenzy, endeavoured to kill himself, by dashing his head against the wall. Being prevented from accomplishing his design, he made a rush at me, which it was with some difficulty I avoided. All the others, however, seemed calm and serious; and I particularly remarked the grave demeanour of the soldiers, whom I observed go home very quietly, beguiling the way with their pipes. I then left the place, after paying about a shilling towards the entertainment.

We desired, before leaving Cairo, to be presented to the Viceroy, Abbas Pacha, and thought to have obtained this distinction on the occasion of the presentation of the Nepaulese Ambassador, who had just arrived here at this time, on his return to India. Our wish, however, could not be complied with, as the Court was held expressly for the illustrious envoy, and it would be an infringement of etiquette to make it a general reception. All we could obtain, therefore, through the good offices of Mr. Walne, her Majesty’s Consul, was permission to go in the ambassador’s suite, and be passive witnesses of the spectacle.

At three o’clock in the afternoon—an early hour for courtiers—we mounted our donkeys, and proceeded in full evening costume to the palace. Here we waited for the ambassador’s cortège, which soon arrived. It was composed of three carriages, the first of which, drawn by four horses, contained the ambassador and his two brothers, with Mr. Walne, the Consul; and the other two, his personal suite, and Major Cavanagh, the political agent. We joined them on the grand staircase, and, ascending a flight of marble steps, passed through two or three ante-chambers to the reception-room, a large saloon, with a fine, chastely-carved ceiling, terminated by a spacious recess, raised two steps from the floor. This was fitted up with a divan of rich Indian shawls, and some state chairs; which, however, failed to give it an imposing or even a furnished appearance. The Pasha was seated in a chair, dressed in European clothes, and wearing a tarboosh. We all took our seats on both sides of him, Mr. Walne then advanced, and presented the ambassador, his brothers, and one English officer; and the ceremonial was completed.

The striking figure of the Pasha, in his state chair, occupied the chief place, giving greater effect, by the sober colour of his attire, to the sumptuous apparel of the ambassador, which consisted of a complete suit embroidered with silver lace, trimmed with rare sables, and his far-famed turban, radiant with precious stones. His two brothers stood next, in robes scarcely less royal, though of far less value. Four Nepaulese nobles were gorgeously attired; and the uniforms of the British officers had a particularly handsome appearance. Mr. Walne wore the full consular dress, which is very rich. And a group of the Pasha’s ministers and principal officers stood on one side, in the usual stately dresses of the Egyptian court.

A series of complimentary speeches were now interchanged, commencing with one from the Nepaulese Ambassador, which was repeated by Major Cavanagh to an interpreter, who communicated it to the Pasha; and the Pasha’s reply went the same round. All was in the most flattering strain; which, if we are to put any faith in proverbs, this is the practice at all courts, and is most certainly the etiquette in the East.

A more agreeable ceremony followed, which was the appearance of eighteen white slaves, dressed in extravagant Parisian costume, each carrying a splendid pipe, with bowl of gilt clay, and sticks embossed with gold and silver lace, alternating on red or blue silk. The mouth-pieces were of the most choice description; and rich tassels hung from the stem. One was presented to each person, but I observed that there were scarcely two of the same kind, and that each above me, was a degree more costly; the choicest remaining with the Pasha, who had one about nine feet in length, with a mouth-piece of lemon-amber held in the highest degree of estimation, encircled by a ring of very large diamonds. The ambassador’s pipe was even more valuable than this, and was magnificently decorated.

As soon as we had received our pipes, another troop of slaves advanced, bearing brazen saucers, on which to rest the bowls whilst smoking, to prevent injury to the fine matting which covered the floor. A third troop, dressed in the same style, presented us coffee, the cups decreasing in splendour, like the pipes, as the recipients were removed from the Pasha. Those of the Pasha and ambassador were overlaid with diamonds and pearls; mine was of wrought gold. As it contained only half a tea-spoonful, I thought it had been emptied by mistake, but I found afterwards, when I became more familiar with Eastern customs, that the presentation of an empty cup is a high compliment, while one two-thirds full is considered an insult.

We remained in the divan for about twenty minutes, when we all took leave, and my party returned to our hotel, very much gratified by their reception.

Our ladies were, of course, excluded from this visit to the Pasha, but they were admitted to a higher privilege; and obtained access to the late Pasha’s hareem. They left our hotel about one o’clock, accompanied by an Italian lady, who, being in the habit of introducing European ladies to these imprisoned houris, undertook to be their chaperon. A long drive through the narrow streets of Cairo brought them to the palace, alighting, they crossed a spacious court, filled with Nubian slaves, and entered a lofty and commodious hall, hung with lamps, and the floor covered with fine matting. Here they found a number of female slaves, whose forms were models of grace, and some with features almost beautiful. They were dressed in white calico, with wide or full trousers, and a Cashmere shawl wrapped round them. Passing these, our ladies ascended a superb staircase, almost lined with slaves, some very fantastically attired; and were met on the landing by a daughter of Ibrahim Pasha—a beautiful girl, about seventeen years of age, possessing a dazzling complexion, and lustrous black eyes. The young princess wore a bodice, scarf, and trousers of rich green brocaded silk, embroidered with gold and coloured flowers, with priceless slippers covering the tiniest of feet. Her long black hair was gathered up on one side, and fastened by a brooch; on the other it was cut short, though behind it fell in long plaits down her neck, and its luxuriance was partially concealed by a turban of light green satin, put on very naïvely, which gave an exquisite completeness to her appearance. At the summit of the stairs they were received by the first wife—the head of the hareem—a woman of commanding appearance, dressed in black brocaded silk, with a very long train. By her they were led into a stately room, furnished with silk divans, piled with cushions, and—what looked strange amongst such Oriental furniture—two or three tables, the velvet coverings of which were heavily embroidered with gold. Here they were joined by two other wives, who, being extremely plain, had probably been married from mercenary motives, though it is impossible to fix a limit to Turkish taste. After a little time, two or three sons—of course, only children—were introduced; and the company was further augmented by about thirty slaves. The wives and their fair visitors now began to converse, and, as usual in the East, paid each other some flattering compliments. The former were very curious in their inquiries respecting a young lady of the party, who they were astonished to find that she was not yet married, concluding that she was at least betrothed, and would shortly be claimed by her lover. When undeceived on this point, and assured that she was perfectly free, they expressed their surprise in the most amusing manner. During the conversation, a slave presented sweetmeats and water, with napkins embroidered with gold. A second slave then came forward, and kneeling, offered coffee in gold cups. Sumptuous pipes were given to some of the ladies, but not to our party, who, as Europeans, were known not to smoke. All this time the conversation proceeded, and, turning on the subject of dress, was maintained with great sprightliness—dresses on both sides being very closely examined. The entire of the hareem were very animated, and seemed perfectly happy and contented, as if their imprisonment and bondage, so mourned over by Europeans, never cost them a sigh. At parting, the principal wife attended our ladies to the foot of the stairs, and the door of the court; and after an offer of sherbet (which was declined) the gratified visitors came away.

Disgrace and flight of Artim Bey — Visit to Achmed Bey — Palace of an Egyptian noble — Arabian horses — Tombs of the Caliphs — The gardens of Shoobra — The imprisoned lady — Grotto of the Virgin Mary — Heliopolis — Boulac — Ishmael Bey — The boats.

As soon as we were settled in Cairo, we proceeded to deliver our letters of introduction; one was for Artim Bey, who had for many years held a high post in the government. To our great disappointment, however, he was not to be found, having absconded only a few days previously, in order to avoid an examination of his accounts, which had been called for by Abbas Pasha. It was said that he had gone to Italy, but it afterwards turned out that he made his way to Constantinople, where he was favourably received by the Sultan, and is now filling a distinguished office in his service.

Another of our letters was for Achmed Bey, a son of Ibrahim Pasha, and third in succession to the Vice-regal throne. I may here observe that the title of Bey, which is hereditary, is given to all the sons of Pashas; it is also frequently bestowed on men eminent for their scientific attainments. Pasha denotes a much higher rank, though this is sometimes conferred on Beys. Achmed Bey is by far the richest man in Egypt. He possesses one of the largest estates in the vicinity of Cairo; this alone brings him in £10,000 a year. He has numerous other estates, and many ships and manufactories, besides upwards of five hundred slaves, and last year he shipped from Alexandria twelve thousand bales of cotton. He is said to be worth altogether about £200,000 a year.

On calling at the town residence of the great Bey, we found he was from home, but were most politely received by his agent, with whom we had a long conversation. The next day, this Afendi, as he was called, brought us a message from the Bey, apologising for not visiting us, on the ground of illness, and requesting that, as he was unable to shew us Cairo himself, we would make use of his carriage for our ladies, and his horses for ourselves, and go wherever we pleased. We thankfully accepted his offer, and on the morrow, at nine o’clock an elegant English carriage was driven up to the door, drawn by four Arabian horses, and attended by two outrunners, with one of the Prince’s Afendis for our guide: in this order we set off.

Our destination was one of the Bey’s palaces, a suburban residence, then undergoing extensive repairs. We soon arrived there, and found it a large white structure, of two stories, the lower one spanned by arches, which had a very stately appearance. There were two wings, one of which was to be appropriated to the white, and the other to the black slaves. The lower apartments were intended for offices, and are on a scale commensurate with the Bey’s dignity. On the first floor, opening from a spacious hall, of greater dimensions than any I ever saw in a private house, are the receiving and withdrawing-rooms, the guard-chamber, and the apartment of the agent. The floor above comprises another large hall, of the same size as the first, and four lofty rooms, painted with the most exquisite art, and hung with dazzling chandeliers; while very high windows, (inaccessible from the floor), give abundance of light. These are the apartments of the four wives, or chief ladies of the hareem, and could not have been approached at another time. I ought to add that the upper floor is reached by a fine staircase, and that all the recesses, both above and below, are gorgeously painted, and furnished with superb candelabras.

On leaving the house, we drove to the stables, having had our curiosity greatly excited by the stories we had heard respecting his stud. We were first shown the great stable, which is about one hundred and twenty yards long, and affords stabling to thirty-six horses, eighteen on each side, every horse being allowed a space of about seven yards. They are not kept in stalls, as in England, but are tethered by a rope to the manger. The large stable was devoted exclusively to first-rate Arabs; some of these were certainly very beautiful creatures, though small, being not more than fourteen hands high. I particularly admired their fetlocks and cleanness of limb, yet I have seen horses in England, which, in my judgment, presented a more striking ensemble, and especially excelled them in the shape of the head. The Bey’s horses were all estimated at very high prices, varying from £500 to £1500, and a filly three months old was valued at two hundred bourses, or £1000; but these sums were merely nominal, as such animals are never bought or sold. In an adjoining stable, we saw twenty or thirty carriage horses: fine animals, but in no way remarkable. There was one magnificent horse in the stud. He was an iron-grey Arab, thorough bred, with his pedigree as carefully preserved, and as much prized as that of a German prince. That we might see him to greater advantage, he was brought out of the stable; and stood with lamb-like gentleness till an Arab boy, an Eastern “petit Ducrow,” sprang on his back, when he became the wild horse of Mazeppa. But the young slave was his master, and galloped him furiously about, making him turn on one leg, and plunge and rear and kick in a manner truly astonishing. During this performance, he quite realized the masterly conceptions of Horace Vernet.

From the stables we strolled round the gardens, which are laid out in the Italian style, without beds; are traversed by covered walks, while streams of water, running in stone channels, (form continual cascades), imparting a delicious coolness to the air. Shaded paths lead to a circular pavilion, rising from marble columns, and overgrown with the most beautifully-variegated creepers, red, blue, and jasmine. In the centre is a bath of white marble, and a large marble fountain, carved and polished in as finished manner, as if it had come fresh from the chisel of Canova. Several handsome chairs and sofas were ranged around.

We were presented, on leaving, with two large baskets of fruit, containing pomegranates, pears, grapes, peaches, and walnuts, all of immense size, and of rare excellence. With these we returned to our hotel, gratefully impressed by the civility and kindness of the Pasha.

We desired to see as much as possible of the environs of Cairo, particularly the antiquities, and early one morning rode out to the Tombs of the Caliphs; a most disagreeable ride, through a perfect Sahara of sand. The tombs lie in a hollow, between some hills, from which may be obtained a charming view of Cairo, the Pyramids, and the Nile, which almost compensates for the blinding glare of the sand, and the scorching heat.

At a distance, the place has the appearance of a large town, but it is a city of the dead, being merely a collection of tombs and mosques, among which the Caliph’s mosque, an extensive and stately building, now falling into decay, is pre-eminent. Here, in a stone which no chisel can cut, or impress with the slightest indentation, we saw some of Mahomet’s footmarks, with indelible traces of his toes, left as a memorial to believers through all time. The tombs, fast mouldering away, were of every kind of architecture; varying in date from as early as 400, to the present year.

Having ended our meditations among the tombs, we once more mounted our donkeys, and an hour’s ride brought us to the petrified forest—an area of about a mile square, covered with pieces of petrified wood, the largest of which is not more than two feet in length. We were shown three or four fragments, half embedded in sand, which still retain a resemblance to trees. Searching about, I found some helix, which I never met with before, and some fossils, chiefly fan-shells. The whole journey, including Caliphs-Town, and our return home, occupied us from nine till four o’clock.

Through the good offices of a Turkish merchant, with whom we had made acquaintance, we obtained permission to visit the gardens of Shoobra. The road thither, unlike that to Caliphs-Town, is one of the most pleasant imaginable, winding through a picturesque avenue of acacias and mimosas. The gardens are very extensive, and are laid out with admirable taste. More flowers are grown here than at any spot near Cairo; and most of the walks, radiating from the centre to every part of the grounds, are covered with trellis-work, overgrown with beautiful creepers. Abbas Pacha, however, has destroyed the retirement of the place, by laying out carriage drives, which cut through the finest walks.

The great feature of Shoobra is the fountain: it rises from an immense basin, seventy yards square, and nearly two in depth, and is surrounded by a balustrade, dividing it from a sort of cloister, from which kiosks project into the water. At each corner is a handsome room, expensively fitted up, in the European manner, with easy chairs and sofas, and divans, each in a different style of rose-coloured satin. The fountain, which is the work of some eminent Italian artists, is supported by columns of marble, of the most chaste and elegant design, and is ornamented with curiously carved fishes and quadrupeds, over which the water falls in glittering showers. In another part of the gardens is a pavilion, the interior formed entirely of alabaster. From the windows, looking in every direction, the eye may range over the gardens and a wide extent of country, including the Nile and surrounding hills.

A palace, one of the residences of the Viceroy, rises in the midst of the gardens. It is a stately structure, commanding a varied and extensive prospect, and is fitted up with Asiatic splendour. It derives a higher interest from its connection with a mystery, that has excited many conjectures and speculations, and an incalculable amount of curiosity; but has never yet been penetrated. That palace is a prison; and the captive who pines within its walls, amidst everything that dazzles and enchants the eye, is a young and lovely woman. Who she is, or what has been her offence, no one can tell; or if a few possess the secret, fear and prudence have effectually sealed their lips. Her captivity has already extended over several years, and will probably last till her death.

An hour’s ride from Cairo, along the picturesque bank of the river, brought us to Old Cairo, a walled city, about a mile in circumference. Here there is little to admire, though there are some strange-looking buildings; and the archæologist, versed in antiquarian lore, will find many objects of interest. The city is chiefly inhabited by Greek and Coptic Christians, who seem to be a very simple and credulous people. We were shown a Greek church, erected over a grotto, in which the Virgin Mary, on reaching Egypt, is said to have found refuge from the Herodian massacre; the building is regarded with the greatest veneration by the devout Greeks. We were much more impressed by the flowing white beard of the high-priest, than we had been by his Church.

Heliopolis, another vestige of antiquity, is a ride of two hours from Cairo. The obelisk is very fine, resembling that in the Place de la Concorde at Paris, though it is not in such good preservation. The English Vandals have been at their work here, covering with vulgar names a memorial honoured by a Ptolemy and a Cleopatra. A tree pointed out to us as having given shelter to the Virgin and Child, during the flight into Egypt, does not appear to be of this great antiquity; judging from some I have seen, I should conceive its age not to exceed eight centuries.

We frequently visited Boulac, the distance being not more than a mile and a half; the road leading through the public gardens, under an avenue of fine trees, chiefly acacias. The grand drive is terminated by three immense mounds, looking like enormous barrows, enclosed by walls ten feet high. We were surprised to find that these miniature mountains were composed of provisions, such as corn, barley, beans, and lentils, which the Pasha, like another Joseph, had laid up for the winter.

The streets and houses of Boulac are more spacious than are generally seen in an Arab village; though much less clean, and commodious, than those of Cairo. There is, however, quite a European air of bustle in the town; the population having no lack of employment, is not seen, as at Cairo, lolling about the leading thoroughfares, and in the coffee-shops, eternally smoking and idling. On approaching the river from the bank, one is nearly stifled by the clouds of dust rising, where vessels are being loaded with corn or cotton, beans or lentils, shipped for every country of Europe; and the stir among porters and lightermen strongly recalls to mind an English dock.

There is a fine palace at Boulac, formerly a residence of Ishmael Pasha, one of the sons of Mehemet Ali—a monster of iniquity and vice, who came to a terrible end. He was engaged in a war with the Ethiopians, on whom he had practised the most refined cruelties, when they fell upon him in an unprotected spot, called Shendy, and heaping his huts round with reeds, set them on fire, and burnt him alive with his whole hareem.

We availed ourselves of the opportunity afforded by our excursions to Boulac to inspect the Arab boats, hoping to procure two, with suitable accommodations for our transit up the Nile. We found a great many in the river, of all classes and sizes, and with some difficulty escaped the polite attentions of the Arab owners, who, whenever we presented ourselves, would insist on our joining them with a pipe. Not seeing any boats that exactly met our wishes, we one day proceeded from Boulac to an arsenal belonging to Ali Bey, some distance up the river, where we hoped to be more successful. Two young urchins, of the respective ages of six and seven, carried us off in a small ferryboat, the cumbrous lateen sails of which, puffed out by a strong north wind, were almost more than they could manage. About an hour and a half brought us to our destination, where we had our choice of boats; and having fixed upon a pleasure-yacht, very clean, and just ready, were brought back by our juvenile navigators, whom we dismissed with two piastres, (anglice 5d.,) as a handsome remuneration for their services.

At Boulac, we picked up another boat, for which we were asked £20 a month; we secured it at the rate of £20 for the first month, and £17 10s. for every subsequent month, and the contract was signed at the Consul’s the next day. This we named ‘The Fanny,’ and it was taken formal possession of by my brother and myself, as joint occupants and commanders. The pleasure-yacht, which was not secured till after some days’ bargaining, and considerable difficulty, at the high terms of £30 a month received the designation of ‘The Eagle;’ and was appropriated to my father and our two ladies.

We had now to make our preparations. ‘The Eagle’ was soon equipped, and ‘The Fanny,’ to get rid of all redundancies, was first sunk, and then painted inside and out, the divans being covered with new calico, the floors matted, and muslin curtains suspended as a protection against the swarms of flies. The awning was repaired, and the provisions and luggage stowed. At length, after four or five days’ incessant toiling, everything was announced to be ready. We had then to wait a day for the Pasha’s firman, or letter of command, and it was not till the very last moment that we received our game-certificates, which serve as a kind of passport. Our boats, meanwhile, had been brought together, between Rhoda Island and Old Cairo, about half a mile from the grand city, and there awaited our arrival.

Departure from Cairo — Ascending the Nile — Invasion of rats — Our dragoman and retinue — The Pyramids — Nile etiquette — An evening on shore — The Tombs of Beni Hassan — The first crocodile — Shock of earthquake.

A lovely full moon rose clear and calm on the blue sky, shedding its silver radiance over the islet of Rhoda, and its dark green woods, and over the calm and majestic Nile, which looked like a stream of light. On the other side, the sun sank behind the hills, leaving his last rays, upon the stately minarets of Cairo, whose groves of tall date-trees grew darker every instant. The huge sails were loosed, and expanded to a mild breeze, that had just strength enough to blow out the folds of our Union-Jack, which waved proudly over our heads. It was an exciting moment, but I cannot say that it was wholly free from melancholy; for while we looked up the mysterious river with eager impatience for the wonders we anticipated, we could not but feel, when our anchor was hauled, that we threw off our last hold of society and completely severed ourselves from all communication with our friends and country, for we had crossed the confines of barbarism.

It was late before I went to bed, and I had scarcely fallen asleep, when I was aroused by a pressure on my feet. At first, I thought some one must be sitting upon my bed and was about to remonstrate but a sudden squeaking undeceived me, and there I discovered that the intruders were three enormous rats, which had settled themselves very comfortably on the coverlet. Fortunately my boots were at hand, and I flung one into the midst of them, on which they scampered off in great dismay, vehemently protesting against such uncourteous treatment. I then got up, and barricaded the door, in which I was assisted by one of our servants; these men being rare specimens of their class, now claim a word of notice.

Abdel Fateeh el Daireh, our dragoman, is a native of Ossioot. He was recommended to us by the English Consul, Mr. Walne, and can produce a heap of testimonials, all commending him in the highest terms, some particularly lauding him as a lady’s man, in which light he was certainly most attentive to our own ladies. He has attended several distinguished characters, and been mentioned with praise in some well-known works on Egypt. Being thus eminent in his vocation, the reader may wish to hear what he is like, and I am but too glad to find a niche for him in these ephemeral pages.

Daireh is thirty years of age, is not stout, and is about five feet seven inches in height. His face, which is rather long, has the usual Eastern expression of gravity and is adorned with scanty outlines of a beard, moustache, and whiskers, apparently destined, spite of the pains bestowed on them, never to arrive at luxuriance. A gay handkerchief covers one eye, which he has lost by ophthalmia; the other beams out kindly and bright. He wears a suit of fine brown cloth, à la Turque, and a dashing red tarboosh. Daireh speaks Italian, French, English, Turkish, and Arabic; harangues the crew, waits at table, washes up, and performs a dozen other inestimable duties; charging for the same the sum of thirty dollars a month, which those who know him consider very reasonable.

Next comes Mahomet el Daireh, the brother of the dragoman. He is a good valet, and when required, an excellent cook; is very clean and willing. He speaks Italian and Arabic, and can wash, wait, and cut hair. He lets out his services at ten dollars a month.

Our cook was Abbas, esteemed the best on the Nile, and the same who attended Miss Martineau and Mr. Yates. He is a very handsome man, and his dinners might be compared with any in the best restaurants of Paris. His wages were twenty dollars a month.

Our fourth native servant was an Arab boy, whom we had impressed into our service; and who, after being well washed, and dressed in a new suit of clothes, made a most respectable page. Under the tutelage of the servants, he became very useful, and especially excelled in lighting pipes.

I should now add, that each boat had a reis or captain, a pilot, and a crew of twelve men, all of whom were restricted from entering the cabin. An order was also issued prohibiting smoking abaft the drawing-room, in consequence of the proximity of the powder magazine.

After my first night on board, I rose early, and by six in the morning was on deck. The sun was already high in the heavens, pouring his dazzling beams over the sky, and making wood, field, and river sparkle with light. We had advanced but little during the night, Cairo, where we had spent so many pleasant hours, was still only three miles distant. Its thousand cupolas and minarets, its marble palaces, and winding streets, its groves and gardens watered by refreshing fountains, could still be seen, spread out against the hills; hills that had looked down on the wide plain for fifty centuries, unmoved by the fall of empires, of dynasties, and of nations.

Mahomet made us some coffee and maccaroni, and we went on shore, taking our guns, in case we should start any game. We passed through a number of date plantations, and several villages, in one of which, called Turnond, we found a manufactory of indigo. The country was so interesting, and the objects so novel, that we were induced to walk a considerable distance, beguiling the way with an occasional shot, by which we brought down a crow, an owl, and several doves and hoopies. At half-past nine we returned on board to breakfast, which on the Nile is a perfect banquet; ours spoke volumes for the skill and proficiency of the renowned Abbas.

After breakfast, we passed the pyramids of Abou-seer, Sakara, and Dashour, and then beheld the mountains from which the stone used in their construction had been excavated. We did not stop, intending, in accordance with the established usage, to examine them narrowly on our return. The landscape, as we advanced, became strikingly picturesque. From the deck we could see a great distance—the banks of the river, now at its highest point, rising but little above the level of the water, and opening to view a wide sweep of richly cultivated land, interspersed with villages and groves of date trees. Some interesting spot continually presented itself, surpassing all that we could imagine of Nile scenery. As day closed, the Mokatam mountains, on the east side of the river, lent a thousand new features to the landscape, elevating their rugged and fantastic peaks into the sky, to which the moon gave a clearness and softness of tone impossible to describe. Surrounded by such objects, we could scarcely tear ourselves from the deck; for even at midnight—so marvellous is the light of the moon—this land of beauty does not veil its charms.

The wind dying away, we were tracked up the river for some hours, at a very good speed, by our active crews; they were at last relieved by a fine fresh breeze, which carried us cheerily onward. We found the scenery as interesting as on the previous day, though rather flat. Striking objects, however, were not wanting; and the False Pyramid on one side, and on the other a range of irregular rocky hills, stretching far into the desert, varied its character. We anchored at about 8 P.M.

The next morning, a brisk wind earned us up to Benisooef, a large town, situated on a picturesque bend of the river. It peeps out from a grove of mimosas, of great size, that screen with their rich, green foliage all the Arab quarter, disclosing only the dwellings of the wealthy, among which two large white palaces, are pre-eminent. The mimosas yield a delicious fragrance, that was wafted to us over the rippling water; on looking round, I counted no less than fifteen plantations of date-trees. We flew swiftly past, impelled by the fairest wind we had yet obtained, aided by a spirit of emulation in the respective boats’ crews, growing out of the most ridiculous rivalry. The race tested the relative sailing qualities of the boats, and it was ascertained, on a comparison of the result with their feats on other occasions, that “The Eagle” carried the palm in a high wind, but in a mild or light air, “The Fanny” was her equal, or even superior. This, as “The Eagle” was a Pasha’s yacht, exceeded our most sanguine expectations; but I should not omit to say that she was far the most heavily laden, as she carried all our stores. The racing was kept up all day, and sometimes very unfairly: “The Eagle,” on one occasion, in trying to get the bank, where there is less current, ran her second mast straight through our mainsail, and tore it to shreds. We had several other collisions, but this, the most serious of all, obliged us to anchor for five hours, in order to repair the tattered sail.

It can never be said that Nile travelling is tedious or irksome. With a fair wind, the boats move rapidly along, and one finds abundance of amusement in contemplating the changing scenery, so full of novelty and interest, or watching the amusements of the crew. When the light breeze dies away, leaving the broad and deep river beautifully calm, and the tall woods silent and stationary, the traveller can go on shore with his gun, and stroll through fields, meeting with abundance of objects to engage his attention.

Our boats communicated with each other about four times a day. Generally this could be done without difficulty, but in a very high wind, the task was not so easy. “The Eagle” then came before us, and letting her gig drift astern, we jumped into it, and were towed alongside, returning to her consort in the same way.

Off Benisooef, we were entertained by a ludicrous demonstration of Nile etiquette. It is the custom, it should seem, in passing this place, to give the crews a dollar to buy a sheep. The douceur was thankfully received by the crew of “The Fanny,” but as “The Eagle’s” men were employed by Government, the reis, after some hesitation, thought it would be infra dig to accept it, and declined. The men, however, were not so particular as their captain; his conduct gave rise to a very lively debate, ending in a compromise, by which it was agreed that the present should be increased to two dollars, when it might be accepted with perfect propriety. But this arrangement was decided on without reference to a very important party—namely, the donor; he naturally demurred, considering it unreasonable that the dignity of these men should be maintained at his expense, and refused to advance a farthing beyond the dollar. We considered the affair at an end; but in this were premature, for soon afterwards the crew, wisely resolving to pocket their dignity, sent a deputation to my father, and carried off the dollar!

On the third day from Cairo, we for the first time saw several pelicans, and flocks of herons. Next day, owing to the lightness of the winds, we made but little progress. About half past five we anchored off a miserable village: in the evening my brother and myself went on shore, accompanied by Mahomet, and bent our steps to the coffee-house. There, to our surprise, we found the crews of our two boats, drinking coffee and smoking; we could not refrain from joining them with a pipe, while we contrived, through the medium of Mahomet, to engage some of them in conversation. The moon was glancing through the branches of the date trees with a light so serene, it gave an air of holiness to the entire landscape, which was marked by the most attractive features of Eastern scenery. In the midst flowed the Nile, reflecting the stars of heaven, winding past a village on her opposite shore, which reposed under the shade of a forest of palms. Through the trees we beheld the figures of the villagers engaged in a rustic dance: what most impressed us was the appearance of the women, loitering about at that late hour, in their singular drapery.

We left this place next morning, with a fair, though mild breeze, that was soon succeeded by a dead calm. This made the heat very oppressive; and it was decidedly the hottest day we had yet experienced. A rack of clouds, of which we had not seen any since our departure from Milan, would now have been a welcome sight, as the sun was never screened, and the glare was almost beyond endurance. We passed the fine cliffs of Beni Hassan, starting up abruptly from the water like the heights of Dover, by their white front reminding us still more strongly of the chalky shores of Old England. But here the resemblance ended; and the face of the country, the character of the landscape, the drooping palms, and the majestic mimosas, with the almost naked forms of tall, copper-coloured Nubians, constantly appearing, told too plainly how far we were from home.

As night came on, our Arabs were still propelling the boat, accompanying every movement of the pole with a general shriek,—a poor substitute for the Canadian boat-song. It was very dark, as the moon had not yet risen, and our little craft floated gently along, leaving a streak of light in her wake. Suddenly, I heard a louder cry than usual, and starting round, saw one of the crew, who had dropped his pole in the river, spring headlong overboard. In an instant he rose to the surface, struck out manfully through the waves, and, seizing the stray oar with his left hand, swam after us for about fifty yards, when he scrambled on board, and was soon seated again at his oar.

We were grumbling at the long calm, when morning brought us a favourable wind, which carried us gallantly along, and we got over a greater distance than we had gained on any previous day. About noon we passed Min’ieh, a very large village, containing a sugar-refining establishment belonging to Mehemet Ali, which looks like a small Manchester factory. Mountains of bones were heaped on the shore ready for use. The country presented much the same appearance as before, occasionally opening very beautiful vistas.

To wile away time, I asked the crew to sing. My request met immediate compliance; to divert us still more, one man, a particularly sprightly fellow, bundled himself up in a heap of clothes, and proceeded to dance in a wild manner to very exciting music. Gradually he took off every article of dress, flinging each in a different direction, with singular dexterity. When perfectly stripped, he sprang overboard, and dived under the vessel, then re-appearing on the other side, he clambered to the deck, and, with similar antics, resumed his clothes. Throughout the performance, the whole crew accompanied the music with terrific yells.

We were much won by the simplicity and the ingenuous nature of these men, who were always desirous to please, and gratified at being noticed. The most trifling acts of kindness made a sensible impression upon them, and were in every case appreciated. They set a high value on everything we did for them; I may as well add that they considered us perfect Crichtons in our attainments. One of them, while employed aft, having caught sight of a sketch of the diabeheeh, described it in such glowing colours to the others, that I had no rest till it was displayed. I asked them if they observed a resemblance, and they clapped their hands, and pronounced it “taib catere” (very good). The feeling was unanimous; every man instantly requested that a sketch might be made of himself.

For three successive days we made but little progress, the wind being too feeble to impel us against the stream. The men did their best to track us, but the towing ropes, owing to the continual strain upon them, were constantly breaking; and in the whole three days we did not get over thirty miles.

We passed Manfaloot, whence our course lay under a range of towering crags, starting boldly up, and overhanging the river for some miles. Their appearance was very grand and imposing.

Soon afterwards we caught sight of the Tombs of Benihassan, scarcely visible in the distance; they made us long for the moment of our return, when we agreed to examine them carefully. Other marvels, however, were before us, luring us eagerly on. We had gone but a short distance further, when we discovered our first crocodile. It was quite a young one, about five feet long, and was lying comfortably on a bank, basking in the sun. We flew for our rifles; they were unloaded, and before we could get them ready for action “the illustrious stranger” took the alarm, and toppled into the water.

On the third day, about half-past nine in the morning, we encountered a slight shock of earthquake. The boat was aground, and I was writing in the cabin, when I was startled by a concussion, like the trembling of the engine on a steam-boat, and rushed on deck to see what had happened. One of our party was ashore, and felt it much more perceptibly. The earth, we found afterwards, split in many places a full inch; and though the shock lasted only half a minute, it extended for many miles.

We arrived at Ossioot, or Siout, or Essoot—for it is spelt thus differently—at one o’clock on the following morning, having been ten days in coming from Cairo; the journey is usually accomplished in seven.

Ossioot — The city gate — The mountain of tombs — Visit to Ismail Pasha — Encounter with a Latin monk — Ekekian Bey — Story of a cat — Arrival at Keneh — Visit to Hassan Said — The dancing girls — Departure from Keneh.

At six o’clock I was aroused by Mahomet, with an intimation that the donkeys were in attendance to take us to the mummy tombs of Ossioot. They would have been reserved, like all the other antiquities, for our return, but in their contract, the men had made a stipulation that they should halt here to make bread. And while they halted, we explored.

The way led through a grove, or, more properly, an avenue of fragrant mimosas and umbrageous oaks, interspersed with sycamore and fig trees, which extended for more than a mile, when we passed through a very pleasant garden, teeming with luxuriant vegetation, to the town. The first view of Ossioot is very striking—no less than eleven dazzling minarets, towering over the grove of mimosas, above which also peer the cupolas of several mosques. A gate opens into a small square, planted with fine trees, that offer a grateful shade, in which scores of Arabs and turbaned Musselmen, in their picturesque attire, were strolling or staring in admiration at two or three richly caparisoned horses, in attendance on Ismail Pasha, who was transacting business in a range of offices which form one side of the square. Round the other side is a kind of exchange, where the merchants, of whom there is a tolerable sprinkling, assemble and trade in corn, beans—and human beings!

Crossing the square, we came out at a bridge, which spans a branch of the Nile, then almost overflowing its banks, and brought us to the town. This is exceedingly well built, in which respect it surpassed any town we had yet seen, not excepting Cairo, though it is much less populous, and the streets have less animation. We soon made our way through it, and arrived at a viaduct, bordered with beautiful trees swarming with doves. This led us to what appeared to be another town, but, though it displayed a profusion of domes and minarets, peeping through a forest, and covered almost as much ground as Ossioot, I learnt from Daireh that it was the cemetery. A bridge immediately adjacent crosses a wide canal, constructed for the purpose of irrigation, and comes out in front of a mountain, the resting-place of thousands of mummies.

A steep ascent brought us to one of the massive entrances, and in a moment we stood among a multitude of dead. The mountain seems to be entirely hollow, and serves the purpose of a vault, on a prodigious scale. A strange but ample light was admitted through the portal, penetrating to the inmost recesses; but, disregarding the close, earthy, sepulchral smell, we pushed our way forward. Pitfalls and heaps of rubbish, the result of antiquarian researches, met us at every step; and mingled with the stones and earth were fragments of mummies, encased in their parchment skin. Numerous chambers diverged from this centre, strewn with these sad reliques. Never had so many vestiges of mortality been presented to me: nor can I say that the spectacle was either pleasing or profitable.

After inspecting several of the chambers, I crawled through an aperture into a dark cave, filled by myriads of skulls, heaped curiously round. I hastily retraced my way to the hall. As I reached the entrance, a far different prospect met my eye, for, through the yawning porch, I caught a glimpse of the pleasant corn-fields and luxuriant trees without, watered by the bright blue river, and backed in the distance by the lofty hills.

An hour’s ride took us back to the boats, where we enjoyed a hearty breakfast, which I think we had fairly earned. About ten o’clock I again went on shore, for the purpose of paying my respects to Ismail Pasha, the Governor of Upper Egypt. He received me with marked courtesy, and I found him a most gentlemanly and agreeable man. His person is strikingly handsome; and sitting on his divan, in an easy and graceful posture, he looked the model of Eastern satraps. He entertained me with pipes and coffee, and much more, by his conversation, which, though displaying a strange ignorance on what we consider in England, ordinary points of information, showed him to be extremely shrewd and intelligent. His mode of accounting for the difference of climate between England and Egypt, a subject we happened to touch upon, is extremely original. He thought that it admitted of easy explanation, and that, as we descended the Nile in going from Ossioot, London was so much colder because it was two thousand miles further from the sun! But Ismail Pasha makes a very adroit governor, notwithstanding the paucity of his acquirements; I could not but admire the dexterity with which, while wholly destitute of military power, he contrives to carry on and administer the government. Even the lawless Bedouins submit to his rule, and dare not violate his commands. An instance of this transpired while we were at Ossioot. A murder, no uncommon occurrence in Egypt, was committed by a Bedouin, who effected his escape; not being able to discover him, Ismail sent a message to the Sheiks of his tribe, requiring them to give him up, or surrender themselves, and be punished in his stead. It might be supposed, that being without soldiers to enforce obedience, his commands would have been treated with derision; but the Sheiks knew that he possessed another power. In fact, the various tribes regard each other with the most rancorous hatred; and the Pasha has but to give the word, when they would fall on any who might be refractory. By thus setting man against man, Ismail succeeds in keeping them all in order.

On taking leave of the Pasha, I made a tour of the town, and visited several grinding mills, and some indigo works; passing thence to the bazaars. These are of some importance, and are well stocked with goods, among which I noticed a number of bales bearing the widely-know impress of Manchester. The entente cordiale subsisting among the traders in these emporiums is very new to an Englishman. Here you have a whole street of persons embarked in the same trade, or following the same calling; you pass from a range of pipe-shops into an avenue of tailors, or through a hive of shoe-makers.

In another quarter of the town, I noticed some slaves, but they had not the same happy look as those I had seen at Cairo, and, moreover, seemed fagged and jaded. They are brought here from Darfour, a long and wearisome journey, to them a most trying one, many dying of fatigue on the road. They are not all for sale here, but Ossioot, from its central situation, is a halting-place for the caravans, and thence they diverge to the most opposite points.

On my way back to our boats, I encountered a Latin monk of the Franciscan order; as he was dressed in Turkish costume, I should have set him down for a devout Mussulman had he not answered my salaam with a “buona notte.” We fell into conversation, and I found that he was attached to a mission sent out by the Propaganda, who have established no less than ten churches in this country, over a space extending from Alexandria to Khartoum. He had been out ten years, and had yet to remain at Ossioot two years longer, ere he would be recalled to his convent at Rome, to which he looked forward with tears of joy. During his long exile, he had met with but one or two missionaries like himself, proceeding to the different stations; and he described his life as very lonely. I took him on board our boats, and showed him round, by which he was much gratified; and, after partaking of some refreshment, he invited me to accompany him home.

It was a delightful evening, and as we stepped ashore, a gentle breeze wafted us the fragrant odour of the woods. At the same moment, the deep sonorous voice of an Imaum uttered the call to prayer from a neighbouring mosque, and True Believers turned to respond. It acted like a spell on a motley crowd in the street, collected round a convicted thief, who was undergoing the ordeal of the bastinado, and, at every touch of the lash, yelled out most manfully. While all turned to the temple of the False Prophet, I followed the priest through a low door, and found myself in a chapel dedicated to the Messiah.

My surprise was great when I looked about me; I could almost have imagined myself in Italy. The little church was clean and neat in the extreme, with a quiet religious light creeping through the windows, and falling softly on the three altars, each of which was adorned with an admirable painting, such as one does not see often out of Italian cities. The centre dome contained a picture of St. Ferdinand, presented by the Emperor of Austria: there was another of St. Catherine, the gift of the Empress. The good priest, who took great pride in his church, was much pleased at my surprise, and at the estimate I formed of his paintings; this led to a long conversation. His flock, he told me, consisted of about seven hundred Copts, converted Turks and Armenians. We smoked a friendly pipe, and took leave of each other with the most cordial feeling on both sides.

We brought out some newspapers for Ekekian Bey, a distinguished officer of engineers, who had been some time in the service of Abbas Pasha, but, like all the Viceroy’s scientific officers, had just been dismissed. The Bey is an elderly man, well-informed, and of courteous manners, though rather abrupt. He is accustomed to English society, having been educated at Stonyhurst, and resided for a long time at Leasowes Castle, near Liverpool. By such intercourse, he has been led into more enlarged views than are generally adopted by his countrymen. He came on board to dinner, and entertained us with some amusing stories and anecdotes, interspersed with shrewd remarks upon his countrymen, to whose peculiarities, as a travelled man, he was singularly awake.

One thing he mentioned, in which we all most heartily concurred—that the Egyptians have no idea of truth, time, or distance; and it requires but one day in Alexandria to impress this on the dullest understanding. The Bey had made part of the Khartoum journey, and gave us a lively narrative of what we should have to encounter; encouraging our ladies to look forward to the deserts with courage, and even confidence.

We left Ossioot early the next morning, and proceeded slowly up the river, unwilling to remove our eyes from the scene we were leaving. The wind was, for the first time, decidedly adverse, and we tacked all day, moving at a very slow rate, and only accomplishing about six miles in ten hours. The sun blazed fiercely the whole time, and seemed to concentrate its rays upon our boat. We should have spent the day more pleasantly, and perhaps as profitably, among the tombs, but on the Nile it is well not to lose time; these six miles is a step onward.

Three more days of adverse winds, or calms, under a still raging sun, were spent much in the same way; the Arabs towing us along very unsteadily; with our stoppages, we did not cover more than five miles each day. Our crews were certainly very lazy fellows; but their good-humour was so perfect, that it almost atoned for their indolence. As we proceeded, we saw many ibis and pelicans at a distance, but we did not shoot any; and, during the whole time, we had but little sport.

On the third morning, we missed our cat, a most sprightly animal, which had been engaged at Ossioot, and had become a particular favourite with the crew, who were much dejected at its disappearance. Hearing, however, that a heaven-born cat had fallen from the clouds into the other boat, I thought that such a prodigy might possibly be able to give some account of ours. On boarding our consort, I found its resemblance so striking, that when four of ‘The Fanny’s’ crew made a solemn declaration it was the same, I laid claim to it. ‘The Eagle’s’ men, undaunted by our scepticism, persisted in asserting that they had seen it come down from heaven; but the earthly character of the cat was proved beyond dispute, and she was carried back in triumph, to the great joy of our crew.

A fair wind came with the following morning, and carried us along rapidly for about a dozen miles, when it grew so boisterous, that we were obliged to draw up by the bank, and drop the anchors. It continued blowing all day, and during the greater part of the night, whirling past our cabin windows in furious gusts, such as might be looked for in rough weather on the coasts of England. It lulled towards morning, and with the first light we hoisted sail, and resumed our voyage.

This day we gained sixty miles, passing Giorgeh, and many other towns and villages, all nestling under the pleasant shade of date and palm trees. These trees, viewed at a distance, appear like dwarfed oaks, with sturdy, wide-spreading branches, covered with luxuriant foliage, but on coming nearer, their leaves take a fan-like shape, and their graceful boughs are found to be loaded with fruit, some of the clumps comprising as many as two or three hundred separate nuts. Soon after passing Giorgeh, we saw an enormous crocodile, which, as if to show its fair proportions, scrambled out of the water on to a small islet, where he strolled leisurely about. Unfortunately we could not get a chance of a shot, for before he came well out, the breeze bore us swiftly past, and he was soon out of sight. By the evening we advanced as far as Shandowak.

The wind continuing propitious, we made considerable progress next day; and on the day following we had a gentle breeze, which earned us past Farshook, with its countless tall chimneys and busy sugar-works, and in front of Dishnek, and graceful Esneh, famed for its Almi or dancing girls. At eight o’clock on the morning of the 5th of November, in honour of which day we had hoisted our three flags, the boats came to anchor about five miles from Keneh, having accomplished the journey from Cairo in seventeen days, the time it usually occupies.

Early next morning we reached Keneh, and immediately going on shore, proceeded to our Agent, who is Her Majesty’s Consul, for our letters, which were to await us here. We were directed to the bazaar, and on our way, passed through several spacious coffee-shops already pretty well attended. Among the company, we noticed some fine-looking Arabs, in their high turbans and flowing robes, with long white beards falling on their breasts. Pipes and coffee were in great request among these sages.

The bazaar, whither we soon arrived, was equal to that of Ossioot. Our dragoman brought us to the Consul, a son of Anak, of colossal dimensions, and upwards of a century old, having confessed to ninety-seven five years ago, though, in accordance with Eastern custom, he has since retrograded to ninety-four. He was enveloped in no less than five togas, the outermost of which was a blanket, and the one next his skin composed of fine linen. His head was immured in a turban, at least three feet in diameter, forming a perfect mountain of white muslin, intervolved with a Cachmere shawl. This venerable patriarch, who bore the name of Hassan Said, was seated in a sort of box, in front of his shop, which was stored with a variety of commodities. By his side sat his grandson and great grandson, the former of whom had reached the mature age of twenty-five.

Hassan, though a very intelligent old man, and the representative of England in these parts, can neither read nor write. He was a good ripe age when the French invaded Egypt, and talks very glibly about Napoleon and Kleber. He is reputed extremely wealthy, and possesses a great deal of land, and herds of camels and sheep. His grandson, by his direction, conducted us to his house, where we obtained our letters, and our firman, giving us permission to traverse Nubia. Some chairs were brought into the court-yard, which was cold and muddy; and here we were regaled with pipes and coffee, both of inferior quality.

We lost no time in looking over our letters, and were thus engaged, when a man came into the court, dressed in a short English pea-coat, and ci-devant fashionable trowsers, the work of a Parisian artist; and introduced himself as a Greek merchant, who could give us some information about the country. The fellow made the most extraordinary gestures I ever saw; the attitudes he assumed were so ludicrous, that it was with difficulty I could refrain from laughing. By his own account, he was familiar with the route to Khartoum, and had often crossed the desert; it is but justice to say, that when we resumed our journey, the information he had given us proved both valuable and correct. I invited him on board ‘The Fanny’ to smoke a pipe, and, on our way down, questioned him about the hippopotami and millia, on which he stopped in the middle of the road, and commenced a series of antics, illustrative of the habits of those animals, till all the Arab children within hail, though not easily aroused to action, came rushing up to see what was the matter. Then he showed me how the gazelle runs, and how it could best be shot, winding up with a lesson in camel riding, during which he swung himself backwards and forwards in the drollest manner, as if he were actually on a camel’s back. I was glad to retreat to the boat, where we had two pipes, and talked about Khartoum, with illustrations by the Greek, till the subject was exhausted.

Meanwhile, our Consul, being lifted on his ass, came down, heavy with years and turban, to call upon us, under the pretext of paying his devoir to our ladies, but his real mission was maraschino. The fact is, old Hassan is noted for his impudence, and his penchant for brandy, and is always on the look-out for presents. We gave him a pipe and some coffee, but he was disappointed in the brandy; and finding, after an interval of about half an hour, that it was not forthcoming, he went off.

In strolling through the town, I saw some of the dancing girls. They were standing at their doors, laughing and joking, and seemed a merry and reckless set. Their forms, more liberally displayed than was strictly consistent with Oriental decorum, seemed elastic and graceful, and were attired in gorgeous dresses of pink silk, bedizened with jewellery.

A melancholy contrast to these nymphs met us on the beach—a party of wretched old hags, bent with age and want, and having their half-naked forms hung with rags. These were the dancing girls of a past age.

By noon, Daireh, who acted as our caterer, had completed his purchases, and hoisting our sail, a mild breeze bore us away. We kept on our course for five hours, when we hauled in the sails, and anchored for the night. The evening passed in comparing notes respecting what we had seen, in looking over and filling up our journals, in making drawings, and—in talking about home.

The next two days we had but little wind, and were obliged to resort to tacking. Meanwhile, one of our Arabs, whose services could ill be spared, went on the sick list, and I had a strong suspicion that he was skulking. Whether he were or not, his docility and obedience to orders made him a pattern patient; could we imitate the Arabs in these points, we should prove much less profitable to the doctors. He was given a dose of medicine, and kept without food for twelve hours, when he came aft, and petitioned for a pipe. This was refused, but gruel allowed, and next day he was convalescent, and showed himself very alert.

As we advanced further up the river, the flies, which had all along been very troublesome, became a perfect torment, and so bold, that we had great difficulty in keeping them out of our eyes. The breeze dying away, left us completely at their mercy; when evening fell, we had the mortification of learning that we were still two hours’ sail from the point we had hoped to reach. Even the next day brought us no wind, and it was not till one in the afternoon that we anchored off a grove of sycamores, and turned our eyes on the majestic ruin around. It was Thebes!