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Leisure hours among the gems

Chapter 14: CHAPTER XI. MISCELLANEOUS.
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The work provides an accessible survey of precious stones, combining mineralogical explanation with cultural and artistic commentary. It describes chemical composition, crystalline forms, optical effects, and relative hardness, and examines color varieties, rarity, and methods of appreciation. Gems are situated within historical beliefs and decorative arts, with engraved stones shown to preserve images from antiquity, while trade, valuation, and collecting are considered. Technical observations are balanced with aesthetic reflection, and each chapter focuses on a different gem to illustrate scientific facts, historical lore, and practical considerations for collectors and connoisseurs.

CHAPTER XI.
MISCELLANEOUS.

The royal family of Brazil are said to possess diamonds of great beauty, selected for their superiority from the best of the products of the mines of the country. But we have not been able to obtain reliable descriptions of them.

The Crown of Portugal, by virtue of its inheritance, is said to own immense numbers of the gem; and it is understood that they are held in reserve, and only a certain quantity are to be sold from time to time according to the demands of the market. In corroboration of this report it is said that the Bank of Lisbon, sold, in 1863, rough diamonds to the value of 1,800,000 francs out of the collection brought from Brazil by John VI. in 1821. It was also stated that the value of the remainder was estimated at 35,000,000 francs.

Mr. Mawe, at the time of his visit to Lisbon, stated that the treasury of the King contained diamonds amounting in weight to four thousand or five thousand karats. The same traveller and gem-expert says that a vast number of the Brazilian diamonds have passed into the possession of the King of Portugal. And he furthermore states that he examined diamonds belonging to this potentate, which were worth more than two million pounds sterling.

Among the crown jewels of Portugal there is a gem of large dimensions which has been reported to be a diamond weighing 1,680 karats. Mr. Murray described it to be as large as an ostrich egg, and added that Mr. Mawe informed him that it was a white topaz. Romè de L’Isle, in his treatise on Crystallography, published in 1783, describes the stone as a diamond, but admits that it is suspected to be a white topaz. It is a little singular that this discrepancy and obscurity has not been definitely cleared up during all this time, when the character of the stone can so easily be ascertained. As the massive variety of diamond is found in masses of more than one thousand karats, it is even probable that the crystalline and transparent variety may occur of equal weight.

Mr. Murray mentioned a beautiful gem of two hundred and fifteen karats, called the Round Brilliant of Portugal, and estimated its value at £388,290. Mr. Mawe describes another a little less in size, and also two nearly perfect octahedrons of one hundred and thirty-four and one hundred and twenty karats each.

The state waistcoat of Joseph I. had twenty buttons, each button being composed of a solitaire diamond of the value of $20,000, and the rest of its ornaments were corresponding in beauty and value. This garment is said to have been the richest ever seen in Europe, with the exception of the recent grand illumination by the Shah of Persia. It has also been stated that the golden cane of John VI. had in its top a splendid brilliant of the value of a million of francs.

The largest of the Brazilian diamonds was discovered as late as 1852, by a negress working in the mines of Begagem. Like most of the large diamonds, its form was not symmetrical, and its shape was much modified from the regular crystalline forms. In 1856 it was brought to France and exhibited to the members of the Academy of Sciences. The gem then weighed in its rough state 254¹⁄₂ karats, and appeared perfectly transparent and without tint. It was placed in the hands of Coster, of Amsterdam, for cutting, and reduced in weight to 127 karats. The form given it was the brilliant; but the gem was cut too thin to exhibit its full beauty. The spread of its table will be found, on comparison, to be much greater than that of the Regent diamond, which weighs 136 karats, or almost 10 karats more; therefore Babinet properly exclaims against the taste which adopted an imperfect brilliant, at a great reduction of weight, when the form of the brilliolette, like that of one of the Sancys, would have preserved three fourths of its weight and given it a more splendid lustre. It would then have been the second diamond in weight and beauty in Europe. This gem is known as the Star of the South, but is sometimes called the Halphen diamond, from the name of the gentleman who bought it on its arrival in Europe.

The gem treasures of the Elector of Saxony are among the most valuable and unique in Europe. The commencement of their collection dates from an early period. The famous silver mines, prior to the discovery of America, placed the Saxon princes among the richest sovereigns of Europe; and they took pride in exhibiting their magnificence, in expending vast sums of money in the purchase of gems, jewels, and works of art.

The treasures thus accumulated during a long period of time are of immense value; and the apartments where they are displayed remind the observer of the gorgeous descriptions of Oriental magnificence. And unless we except the unknown collection in the Turkish Seraglio and those of the Crown of Russia, it is the most extensive and interesting in the world. All that is rare and beautiful on earth is here represented; and the total valuation of all the objects of art and nature must amount to many millions of dollars. They are contained in eight large consecutive rooms, each surpassing the previous one in the splendor and richness of its contents. Among the diamonds are some large and unique gems of the rose pattern. The gala dress and the decorations of the Elector, which fairly dazzle the eye with their floods of brilliancy, are also kept here. In the epaulette there are three splendid brilliants which weigh nearly fifty carats each.

But the chief attraction among all this vast collection of gems is the famous green diamond. This wonderful stone is of oblong form, 1¹⁄₁₂ inches in length by ¹⁰⁄₁₂ of an inch in width, and weighs 31¹⁄₄ karats. It is mounted in a clasp, set with large white brilliants. The price paid for it is kept a profound secret; but it is reported that it was obtained at Warsaw by Augustus the Strong, and that he paid 60,000 thalers for it. Amateurs generally regard the blue diamond as the most astonishing and perfect of the products of the mineral kingdom; but we fail to perceive, in the exhibition of this color, any advantage over the fine green or the pure red diamonds.

There is another diamond in this collection which is one of the finest in Europe, although it weighs but 48³⁄₄ karats. It is known as the Saxon white brilliant, and is of rare perfection of form and brilliancy. It is about 1¹⁄₁₂ inches square, and is set in the insignia of the Order of the Golden Fleece, surrounded with other fine brilliants. Augustus purchased it, and is said to have given more than $700,000 for it. This gem has a great reputation for its beauty. Comparison with the Regent, the Orloff, and others, can alone determine its degree of excellence.

The fifth and sixth divisions of the eighth apartment are devoted to the display of diamonds, and the insignia of Saxony. The decorations of the Elector, consisting of buttons, collar, sword-hilt, and scabbard, all glittering with diamonds, present a charming appearance. There are also to be seen, profusely decorated with gems, the Saxon Order of the Rue Garland, and the seven orders of the Golden Fleece.

Among the royal treasures in Munich there are several beautiful pink diamonds of large size, and a magnificent blue one of thirty-six karats, which is set in the Order of the Golden Fleece.

In the treasury of the royal palace may be seen many fine single diamonds, together with magnificent emeralds and sapphires of great value. The King’s and Queen’s crowns, resplendent with brilliants, are kept here, with others of older date which belonged to the former Counts Palatine. Among the relics are preserved the ancient diadems of Henry II. and his Empress Kunigunda of the date 1010; also, the orb and sceptre of the Emperor Charles VII., together with his crown.

Prussia has but few diamonds, the policy of the Hohenzollerns having been adverse to the purchase of gems as baubles. Austria, however, is rich in diamonds, and possesses some extraordinary gems. The Imperial Jewel Office at Vienna contains a rare collection of great value. Here is preserved the famous Regalia of Charlemagne, which were buried with the great conqueror in his tomb at Aix la Chapelle. Barbarossa, in 1165, dared to violate the sanctity of this sepulchre, and removed the barbaric jewels, which are of great interest to the antiquary and the historian. For several centuries past they have been used at the coronation of the German emperors. The crown is a magnificent specimen of the art of the Middle Ages, and is ornamented with rough diamonds and other gems in their natural state.

The crown and sceptre of Rudolph II. may be seen here. They are also adorned with uncut diamonds and gems, and were formerly worn by the German emperors elect on their entrance into Frankfort.

The chains, collars, decorations, regalia, belonging to the dresses of the various Austrian Orders, namely, Golden Fleece, Maria Theresa, etc., and worn by the Emperor, exhibit a splendid collection of diamonds, topazes, emeralds, etc., unique in size and perfection.

Here is also to be seen the famous yellow diamond known as the Florentine. It is in the form of a double rose with facets cut all around, and weighs 139¹⁄₂ karats. It is of a fine lustre, but of a yellow tinge, sufficient to impair the beauty of the prismatic reflections. The Emperor Francis, as Grand Duke of Tuscany, inherited the gem, which accounts for its presence in Vienna.

This gem has been confounded with the diamond given to the Pope by Charles the Bold; but its history is very obscure, and its introduction into Europe is unknown. There is, however, a story among the Italians that it was first discovered by an amateur while hunting over the relics and objects of virtu in a curiosity shop at Florence, where it was regarded as a crystal of yellow quartz. Tavernier saw it in Florence in the middle of the seventeenth century, but does not mention its history. Besides this gem there are several large diamonds in Europe whose history has become very confused, and it is now difficult to trace their identity in several instances.

The Florentine is the rarest specimen of the kind known, and, although it is not cut with regularity, its lustre and its brilliancy are greatly increased by its star-like cut. It is 1¹⁄₆ inches in length, by one inch wide, and is neatly set in a large sevignée, surrounded by other fine diamonds. Its value is placed at $450,000. There is also another large and fine diamond intended as a button for a hat, but its history is unknown.

The finest rose-colored diamond known belongs to the Austrian jewels. It is of a beautiful rose-color, thirty-two karats in weight, and of remarkable lustre. It is now placed in the centre of a knot of white brilliants to which the decoration of the cross of Maria Theresa is attached. Here is also the beautiful bouquet of flowers made for Maria, and constructed out of colored diamonds and other precious stones.

The finest collection of colored diamonds in the world is to be seen here. It was made by a Tyrolese named Helmreicher, who went to Brazil and spent the most of his life there in searching for them among the different mines. They illustrate finely the wide range of color possessed by the gem.

The Empress of Austria, in 1800, during the war with France, wishing to emulate the manners of ancient warriors, sent to the Archduke Charles, then in command of the army of Bohemia, a helmet set with magnificent gems.

In ancient times it was not rare for Eastern monarchs to array themselves richly, which the stern Romans affected to despise, believing in the virtues of unadorned steel. The decorations of Artaxerxes Mnemon and Mithridates are said to have amounted to millions of dollars in value. It is also reported that Alexander, at the battle of Arbela, wore a helmet with a gorget of polished steel set with gems. Murat, however, the gayest of all modern generals, obtained his picturesque effects by means of colored fabrics and feathers rather than from gold and gems.

There were few persons among the frequenters of the courts of Europe during the past three-quarters of a century who had not heard of the value and the splendor of the Esterhazy jewels. It appears that near the close of the last century Nicholas, Prince Esterhazy, assisted at the crowning of Francis II. as King of Hungary. He was then captain of the Guard of Honor, which was composed of twenty-four nobles and princes of inferior rank, and on this occasion first appeared in his ornaments of precious stones. The Prince, not content with the usual decorations belonging to his rank and his corps, transformed all parts of his equipments which were of metal into open gold-work incrusted with gems. The effect was so beautiful as to stimulate the Prince to continue and complete his designs in a magnificent manner. And therefore he sought far and wide for the finest gems to adorn his person.

This passion for collecting and decorating soon ripened into a mania, and developed a prodigality greater than the Curii or Fabricii ever dreamed of. Ample means were at hand to foster this love of magnificence, for the Prince was feudal proprietor of a third of Hungary, being possessor of thirty-three manors, and lord of seventeen grand seignories.

The uniform of his rank as general of Hungarian huzzars, composed of jacket, pelisse, and pantaloons, was woven with pearls of the finest description; and among the multitudes of gems which formed the decorations were fifty thousand fine diamonds of the brilliant form. The weight of these mantles of magnificence was more than one man could endure for a length of time; and its profusion of ornament recalled the barbaric splendor of Lollia Paulina as she appeared at the banquet of Caligula. Gems of all colors and varieties were employed by the Prince, and many fine rubies, emeralds, and topazes were made use of. The most valued and the most delicately formed of all his ornaments was the aigrette of diamonds which replaced the ordinary plumes on his huzzar cap. It was called the most beautiful jewel in the universe. These artificial plumes, which flashed like flames of fire, contained five thousand diamonds of the purest transparency and most beautiful colors. Their weight amounted to one pound and a half avoirdupois. Around the huzzar cap were placed a wreath and a band, over which were ranged, in many rows, the finest and most brilliant pearls. The sword and scabbard were incrusted with the rarest brilliants. The broad band which hung over the shoulder to the belt was a remarkable article of workmanship. It was a simple band covered with fine pearls and the most precious diamonds, one of which, at the shoulder, was valued at 20,000 livres and another at the waist at 12,000 livres. Besides these ornaments he had for decorations six orders,—of the Toison d’Or, of the Bath, Saint Andrew, and others, all constructed of unequalled magnificence.

These costumes were worn by the Princes Nicholas and Paul at the coronation of Francis II., of George IV., of William IV., of Victoria, and of the Emperors of Russia and Austria; and were the themes of admiration, even among the glittering uniforms of higher ranks. But finally, by the fatality that attends collections of all that is beautiful on the earth, there came a change in the fortunes of the heir of Esterhazy. Paul, the last Prince, died some years ago harassed with debts. His estates were hypothecated; but his jewels passed into the hands of his creditors, and many of them were sent to London to be separated and sold. Since then most of the beautiful gems, which sparkled so brilliantly in former times in the courts of Europe, have been scattered over the world, and their identity lost, their history forgotten.

There is a very beautiful diamond of thirty-six karats owned in Holland, but its history we have not learned.

The famous crown of St. Stephen of Hungary, which disappeared during the Revolution of 1848, is said not to have any diamonds among its gems. Whether the absence of this stone is due to the extreme antiquity or to the whims of the constructors of the crown, we are unable to state.

The late Duke of Brunswick had before his death a marvellous collection of diamonds, partly acquired in gratification of his eccentric tastes and partly obtained by inheritance. Among the latter was the famous Cumberland diamond of thirty-two karats, which had descended to the heir of the House of Hanover. We have not been able to obtain a description of these treasures, nor can we learn of their disposition by the remarkable will of their late possessor.

Among the church regalia of Catholic Europe, and the offerings presented in past times to the various shrines of the saints of their religion, are yet preserved many gems of great beauty and value, and among them a great number of diamonds. Some of them have been stripped during the ravages of war, or by the iconoclastic fury of civil disturbances; and the pious monks have, in instances, restored their loss by the substitution of paste, which has pleased the pilgrim’s eye quite as well. For instance, the celebrated shrine of the Three Magi at Cologne has been despoiled of a great part of its vast treasures. And the skulls of the kings, inscribed with their names—Gaspar, Melchior, and Balthazar—written in rubies, were once crowned with gold diadems, resplendent with brilliant gems, now replaced by silver, gilt, and paste, or imitations. The custodians of the relics and jewels still assert, through pious fraud or a convenient ignorance, that their value amounts to 6,000,000 francs.

Catholicism, when it had the means, spared no expense in decorating its shrines and beautifying its relics. It well understood the effect of the glitter of gold and the brilliancy of gems upon the human imagination. The examples of this barbaric and yet cultivated taste are to be seen in all parts of Europe. Relics and insignia were not only lavishly adorned, like the Remonstrance at Prague with its 6,666 diamonds, but the bones of their saints were committed to the earth ornamented with costly gems, like those of Cardinal Borromeo interred at Milan two hundred years ago. The shrine of Loretto in Italy has been the most favored of all in Europe in attracting gifts from the rich and powerful as well as from the sick and the conscience-stricken. If reports are true, it has been and now is the receptacle of many of the most beautiful treasures of the mineral kingdom. As its history is not generally known, we will briefly allude to it, and give a still briefer description of its jewels.

Casa Santa denotes the chapel of the Holy Virgin at Loretto in Italy. Its chief room is the chamber in which the Blessed Virgin is said to have been born, where she was betrothed to Joseph, where the angel saluted her, and where the Holy Ghost overshadowed her, etc. Tradition says it was carried, in May, 1291, through the air by angels from Galilee to Tersato in Dalmatia, and four and a half years afterwards was taken to Italy and set down in a wood in the district of Recanati, a thousand paces from the sea.

Strange to relate, it was more than two hundred years before any author in that country took any notice of the event or of the building. It was, when first brought to notice, simply a house of one room; but as religious enthusiasm became excited it also became necessary to repair its decayed condition and improve its appearance. Therefore, Clement VII. caused a vaulted roof to be placed upon it and new foundations to support its tottering walls. At a later period it was completely encased in the finest Carrara marble, under the directions of the most celebrated sculptors of the age and during the pontificates of Leo X., Paul III., and Gregory XIII. The edifice which encloses the chamber within its spacious walls was designed by Bramante, and its sculptures were designed and executed by the most famous artists. This is composed of Istrian stone resembling the Travertine stone so much used at Rome.

Within the ancient chamber, which is regarded as one of the holiest of all the holy precincts known, stands the sacred image, called the Great Madonna, five feet high, made of cedar, and carved, as tradition says, by St. Luke, who was a carver as well as a physician. Upon her head is placed a triple crown of gold, enriched with diamonds and pearls, a gift from Louis XIII. of France. Over her shoulders an ample robe is cast, glittering with jewels of all descriptions and said to be of inestimable price.

The niche in which the image is placed is also decorated with gems, and among them are seventy-one of the finest of the Bohemian topazes [quartz].

Adjoining the Virgin on the right side appears a statue of an angel cast in pure gold. This is also profusely enriched with diamonds and other gems. Some of these, which are said to have cost 50,000 ducats, were the offering of Eleanora of the House of Este, the Queen of King James II. of England, when she sought for the intercession of the Virgin to grant her an heir. The Pretender to the British Crown was born not long after, to the delight of all those who believed in miraculous intervention.

On the left side of the Virgin a silver statue of an angel is placed, and still further on the right appears another costly image. This last was the gift of Louis XIII. of France, in gratitude for the birth of the Dauphin, afterwards “Le Grand Monarque,” Louis XIV.

Seven lamps of solid gold are continually burning with a sacred flame before the image of the Virgin, and other parts of the room are illuminated with thirty-seven silver lamps.

Although many of the reports concerning the valuables belonging to this famous shrine are probably fiction, there is no doubt of the immense value of the gems and jewels that have been presented to it. The donations to the wealth of this famous shrine have been given from all parts of the world where the Catholic religion has been venerated. And all classes, both rich and poor, have zealously invoked the blessing of the mysterious spirit by their liberal bequests.

The rich Abbey of St. Denys, before the Revolution, is said to have possessed a rare and costly assemblage of gems, jewels, and jewelled relics. They were reported to have been the accumulation of many centuries, dating back to the Carlovingian kings.

Among them were said to have been valuable presents from the Emperors of Byzantium. But this is doubtful, for the Greeks despised Catholicism and the Crusaders. There may have been, and probably were, fine gems of various kinds from the spoils obtained by the Franks in the conquest of Constantinople. There is no doubt, however, as to the richness of the works of mediæval art; for we find sufficient evidence in the old work of Dom Doublet’s, “Tresor of St. Denys,” although the collection itself has long since been dispersed and almost forgotten.

The iconoclastic fury of the Revolution collected many of the treasures of this Abbey, with those of other chapels of Paris, and offered them at public sale in 1794. It is said that this collection embraced a great quantity of precious stones,—rubies, topazes, sapphires, etc.,—both in the rough crystal and rudely cut, thus proving their Oriental origin. It is also stated that this much-to-be-lamented assemblage of beautiful things brought but 80,000 francs.