THE
LAWS AND CUSTOMS
OF
JOURNEYMEN HATTERS.
To enter fully into the various regulations and forms that the "trade" have, from time to time, instituted and acted upon, would of itself fill a volume; all that can be done then in this small work will be to give the best possible outline of such matters as are most likely to interest those who may wish for information on the subject. The most important laws of this trade are these:-
First-No man shall work as a maker or finisher, unless he has served an apprenticeship of seven years to what is called a "fair master."
Second-To be a fair master, and entitled, according to the rules of the trade, to take an apprentice, he must have manufactured his own Hats, seven years prior to the taking, or otherwise have served a fair seven years' apprenticeship himself to the trade.
Third-Whether there be one, two, or more in a manufacturing firm, that firm are not to have more than two apprentices at one time.
Fourth-There are a number of masters who do not manufacture their own "stuff," but are employed by "Great Houses," who, although they have a right, by law, to take apprentices, yet those apprentices, by reason of their masters not working their own materials, are never admitted to stand by the side of fair men, on which account they must ever continue foul, and debarred of the usual privileges, or submit to a second apprenticeship. This is a case that frequently occurs; indeed it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a wife and half a dozen children, himself near thirty years old, serving a second apprenticeship for a fair time; the hardship of this must be admitted, inasmuch as it is punishing a man for a fault he never committed.
Fifth-A foul man is one that has not served his apprenticeship agreeably to the rule of the trade, or has been guilty of some act detrimental to the supposed interests of the journeymen in general. These are called "KNOBSTICKS."
Sixth-A fair man has the privilege of what is called "turns upon tramp," that is, if he cannot obtain work in the town where he resides, or has an inclination to travel, he may journey or tramp to the next; should any of the fraternity be there, and he wishes to get "shopped" he is "asked for" by one in that factory, (no man being allowed to ask for himself), if unsuccessful, there are two night's lodging for him, two pots of strong beer, bread and cheese, and a shilling or two to forward him to the next town. The money turn in London is five shillings, but no man is entitled to a second turn in one place, until after the expiration of six months from his receiving the first.
Seventh-If a journeyman has, by his own act, become foul, nothing can absolve him but submitting to a fine, and this is measured according to the offence, which, in some heinous cases, such as "creeping" into favour with the master, or going to work when all the rest have struck for wages, is as high as ten guineas.
There are three distinct courts for the examination and punishment of offenders. The first, or High Court of Congress, is a sort of general assembly, composed of either Makers or Finishers, just as their separate interests may be concerned; but on all joint questions these parties form a junction. In this court matters of importance only are discussed; as, for instance, the advance of prices, the abrogation of old laws, and the making of new ones, under the operation of which, it sometimes happens that both men and masters, as well as the law of the land, are alike the victims. The fines levied in this court are appropriated to special and "STRIKING" purposes, often tending to produce a "COMBINATION" of interesting effects. The masters too are not wholly exempt from these pretty little combinations, which, however, do not always realize or carry their intended point; this is owing (it is thought) to the vast affection journeymen bear towards their employers; indeed so much so, that they cannot bear the latter should "LOWER" themselves.
There is a court below this, which is formed by taking one or two men from the seven nearest shops. Their sitting, if not public, is sure to be in a public-house, president, Sir John Barleycorn. The matters chiefly brought here are those that relate to the misconduct of journeymen towards each other in the same factory, and which cannot be settled where they originated. This is called "DOZENING," and their power of FINE extends to two guineas, which is drank in good old stout by the whole seven shops; but as all dry subjects are prohibited in this tribune, the extent of fine greatly depends on the state of the weather; so that if it be a sultry summer's day, the punishment of an offender is in proportion to the sun's heat.
The third and lowest court is an assembly of shop-mates only, this meeting is called a "GARRET MATCH," and may be demanded for the punishment of an aggressor, by any aggrieved man in a factory. Power of fine from two to ten shillings.
I have before stated that there are in this trade foul men; in point of number they constitute about one-sixth part of the whole; but their earnings, or price of labour is the same as the fair trade.
A journeyman finisher in full work will earn, on an average, from three to four pounds a-week; while, on the contrary, a maker cannot get more than fifty shillings. This is a subject of much jealousy and discontent; nor is it likely to be otherwise, unless the latter can raise himself to an equality with the former; against this there are many obstacles, one of which is, the increasing foul trade, who would continue working, even though the fair men had "struck." Another is, that they could never obtain the co-operation of the finishers, who, being amply paid themselves, think it best to leave well alone.
These are the principal regulations which govern journeymen hatters, whether they have a good or a bad tendency is questionable; there are many in the trade who decidedly condemn them, giving as their reasons, that they encourage idleness, tippling, and endless squabbles. Idleness-inasmuch as when men are summoned to discuss the most trifling matters, even though the meeting be at five o'clock in the morning, they seldom feel disposed to return to their work that day. Tippling-for the reason that, as fines are mostly spent in drink, the conviction of a supposed offender is generally thirsted after; but as the quantum levied seldom suffices, all further supplies for the remainder of the day are met by individual subscription. In these cases there is no show of niggardliness, as every succeeding gallon of the "sparkling entire," is but an internal messenger, bearing the glad tidings of another to come. Squabbles, because it is natural, when the desire for a thing is once created, and the gratification of that desire (where nothing of criminality attaches) can be indulged, by having recourse to a little contrivance, that the opportunity of so doing should be more frequently made, than suffered to approach accidentally; which will account for the trifling magnitudes that are allowed to agitate shops and factories in general. The arguments in favour of these laws are, that without them, apprentices would be careless in serving out their time, the trade over-run with bad workmen, hats greatly deteriorated in the manufacture, the excellence of which is their chief recommendation in a foreign market, and the surest guarantee of the master's profits at home.
Having given the contending opinions, in reference to the laws of this trade, I shall say a word or two concerning the shape, and manner of placing a hat on the head.