Lowney's Cook Book / Illustrated in Colors

MARKETING

The term marketing means to the ordinary housekeeper the buying of meats and vegetables only, but the buying of all articles necessary for housekeeping should be included under this head.

In order to market well the housekeeper must know what articles to buy in quantity and when to buy to the best advantage.

It is much more economical proportionately to buy for a large family than for a small one.

Other parts of the beef creature used as food are—

A side of beef weighs on the average about 450 pounds.

Beef when first cut is dark purple, but turns red on exposure to the air. Good beef has a heavy layer of fat on the outside, which is yellowish white and crumbly; the inside fat is white. Best quality beef has a large percentage of fat and a small proportion of water.

Description of Cuts of Beef

In the Boston markets, the part marked (4) in the side of beef in Plate A has three ribs left on and the whole piece is called the sirloin. It is divided by the butcher into the tip which has one muscle only, the middle and the first cut. The fillet or tenderloin of beef is found just under the first rib. It begins in a small point and increases in thickness as it runs back. It ends in an obtuse point at the hip bone. It is always covered with a thick bed of suet and the kidneys are embedded in this suet at the end near the ribs. Sirloin roasts are considered by many the best roasts. They are expensive cuts as they contain considerable bone, and in a large creature, a large amount of tough flank, but as they are tender, juicy and of good flavor they are popular pieces.

The rump joins the sirloin as shown in Plate A. The back of the rump is the best piece for roasting as it contains no bone; it is more economical than the sirloin roasts, but as the flavor is different it is not so popular. The middle and face of the rump are both used for roasts, but are less juicy and tender than the back. Both of these pieces are often used for beef à la mode.

Rump Steaks are cut with the grain of the meat and across the grain; the former are tough and the latter are generally tender and juicy; they are cut from the part marked (5) in Plate A. In the cross cut rump steak there is a piece of tenderloin.

The aitch bone, number (8) in Plate A, contains a large proportion of bone; if a large roast is cut, a portion of the rump and a part of the round is included, so considering the price, which is as many cents per pound as there are pounds, it is not an expensive piece as it can be used for a roast one day and made into a stew the next.

The round of beef as shown in Plate C is divided into the top and the bottom. The top is used for steaks and roasts. The first few slices are quite tender. The third slice is the best for steak as it has only one muscle. The farther down the leg the steak is cut the tougher it becomes. The bottom of the round must necessarily be tough because of the large number of tendons. It may be easily distinguished from the top as it contains two muscles. It is used principally for making beef tea or Hamburg Steak.

The vein is used for roasting or braising. The meat is usually stringy but of very good flavor.

The hind shin is used only for stews or soup stock. The fore shin contains less meat but is sometimes used for the same purposes as the hind shin. The pieces marked 12, 13, 14 in Plate A are usually corned.

Number (3) in Plate A is the rib roast. It contains five ribs, the first three ribs being the best part of the piece. Number (2) in Plate A is the chuck rib piece. This contains the shoulder blade and is consequently tough. It is best for stews or braising, although it may be used for roasting. The bones are frequently removed and the piece tied into a round roast, but at best it is tough although the flavor is good. The neck is used principally for soup stock, stews and beef tea.

If we consult Plate D representing the New York cuts of beef, we find that the part marked (3) is called the Rib Piece. The thirteen ribs are left in this piece. It takes in part of what is called Sirloin in the Boston markets. In New York the ribs are cut much longer than in Boston and the price per pound is less, but as this gives a tough portion of the flank, the cost, in reality, is just as great. The part marked (4) is the sirloin and is used both for roasts and steaks. When there is a large piece of tenderloin on the steak it is called a Porterhouse Steak, but when there is only a small piece of tenderloin it is called Short Steak or Delmonico Steak. From this cut nearest the rump we get the hip bone, the flat bone, and the round bone steaks. There are three round bone steaks, which are generally rather inferior. The flat bone steaks are also three in number and better than the round bone steaks. The hip bone steaks are the best of these three and contain a small piece of tenderloin. The rump (5) is divided into two pieces, one piece having the hip bone and the other the backbone. It is generally corned. The round furnishes meat for steaks, which are of excellent flavor, but not very tender. It also makes a good piece for braising. The bottom of the round is a much poorer cut, it contains so many muscles and tendons. It is tough and so only suitable for stock or beef tea.

The Cross Ribs, number (12), make a good roasting piece. It is economical as it is solid meat, and it is quite tender as the muscles all run in one direction. The Shoulder Clod, number (14), has tendons running in all directions; it is consequently tough. It is used for Hamburg Steak or for any dishes which require long slow cooking. Numbers 9, 10, 11 and 13 are used for corning and numbers 8 and 15 are used for soup stock.

The hind quarter is divided into—

Other parts of the veal creature used as food—

The best veal is from a calf six to twelve weeks old. The meat should be pinkish white, fine-grained, and tender, and there should be a large amount of fine white fat on the legs and around the kidneys.

Pork

Fresh pork is not so popular a meat as corned or salted, although fresh pork from a pig which has been carefully fed before killing is a delicate meat.

The upper part of the fore legs, or the shoulders, and the upper parts of the hind legs, or the hams, are salted and smoked. The sides of the pork creature are salted and smoked for bacon.

The fat is removed from the loin and ribs, and these are sold for roasts or chops; the fat is pickled and used for salt pork.

The head is used for making souse and cheese.

The feet are sold fresh or pickled.

The brains, livers, and kidneys are also used the same as those of beef.

Poultry and Game

Poultry includes all domestic birds.

In buying poultry, select birds which have been freshly killed and hand-picked.

Pin feathers are found on young birds, and hairs on older birds. The birds should be short and plump, with considerable meat on the breast, fat, but not too fat.

Young birds have the cartilage at the end of the breastbone soft and pliable.

For roasting, buy poultry from three months to a year old. For braising, stewing, and slower methods of cooking, buy older birds, as they contain a larger proportion of meat than the younger birds.

Game includes animals that are hunted in field or forest.

Venison is cut like mutton. The meat is much darker than beef meat, and the fat is whiter; it is cooked in the same ways as mutton.

Birds are sold with the feathers on, but have the market man remove them. All game is expensive, and so is a delicacy. In buying game, that which has hung three weeks or more is considered best.