FOOTNOTES:
[15] "Viscol" is the best oil for softening all kinds of leather that the author knows of. It is made by The Viscol Co, East Cambridge, Mass., and can be obtained from the post exchange.
[16] Propert's Harness Soap is excellent. However, since the European War its issue has been discontinued by the Ordnance Department. "Viscol," obtainable from the post exchange, is the best oil for softening all kinds of leather that the author knows of.
CHAPTER XVIII
CARE AND DESCRIPTION OF THE RIFLE
Care
1321. Importance. The care of his rifle should be the soldier's first thought; for, if he would have it take care of him in time of danger, he must take care of it at all times.
It is a generally recognized fact that more rifles become inaccurate and unserviceable by the lack of care than by firing.
The instructions for taking care of the rifle are few and simple. Learn them well and apply them constantly—it only requires a little care and patience. You will be well repaid for it. It may some day save your life.
1322. Care of bore requires work. The bore of the rifle is manufactured with the greatest care in order that a high degree of accuracy may be obtained, and it should, therefore, be properly cared for.
The proper care of the bore requires conscientious, careful work, but it pays well in reduced labor of cleaning and in prolonged accuracy life of the rifle, and better results in target practice.
1323. How to clean the bore. With the cleaning rod the bore must always be cleaned from the breech—never from the muzzle. Cleaning from the muzzle is liable to wear and otherwise injure the mouth of the barrel, which is easily injured and thus the piece rendered inaccurate.
First, remove the bolt from the rifle, place the muzzle on the floor, a board, or piece of canvas, and do not remove it therefrom while the cleaning rod is in the bore. Never place the muzzle on the bare ground, lest dirt should get into it. (Note. Of course, if a rack is provided for cleaning rifles, it should be used instead of placing the muzzle on the floor.)
To clean the bore use patches of rag, preferably canton flannel, cutting them into squares of such size that they may easily run through the barrel.
1324. What care of the bore consists of. Briefly stated, the care of the bore consists of removing the fouling resulting from firing to obtain a chemically clean surface, and then coating this surface with a film of oil to prevent rusting.
1325. Kinds of fouling. The fouling which results from firing is of two kinds—the powder fouling, from the burning of the powder; and the metal fouling, from the nickel scraped off the bullet as it passes through the bore.
The powder fouling is highly corrosive, that is, it causes rust and eats into the metal, and it must, therefore, be removed as soon as possible.
The metal fouling itself will not cause rust, but it may cover the powder fouling and thus prevent the cleaning material from getting at the powder fouling, which, as stated before, will eat into the metal. When metal fouling accumulates in noticeable quantities it reduces the accuracy of the rifle.
1326. How to remove powder fouling. Powder fouling may be readily removed by scrubbing the bore with the soda solution (hot) furnished by the Ordnance Department, but this solution has no effect on the metal fouling.
It is, therefore, necessary to remove all metal fouling before we are sure that all powder fouling has been removed and that the bore may be safely oiled.
Ordinarily, after firing a barrel in good condition, the metal fouling is so slight as to be hardly perceptible, and is easily removed by solvents.
However, due to the accumulation of metal fouling, pitting (little hollows in the metal) or the presence of dust, or other abrasives (substances that cause the metal to wear away by rubbing), the fouling may occur in clearly visible flakes or patches and be much more difficult to remove.
1327. How to remove metal fouling. After scrubbing out the bore with the soda solution, plug it from the breech with a cork at the front end of the chamber or where the rifling begins.
Slip one of the 2-inch sections of rubber hose over the muzzle down to the sight and fill with the standard Ordnance Department solution to at least one-half inch above the muzzle of the barrel.
Let it stand for 30 minutes, then pour out the solution, remove the hose and breech plug, and swab out thoroughly with soda solution to neutralize and remove all trace of ammonia and powder fouling.
Wipe the barrel clean, dry, and oil.
With few exceptions, one application is sufficient, but if all fouling is not removed, repeat the operation.
Hoppe's Nitro Solvent No. 9 will accomplish the same result even better and quicker and with much less labor.
1328. How to proceed in cleaning the bore.
To clean the bore after firing, proceed as follows:
Swab out the bore with soda solution to remove powder fouling. A convenient way to do this is to insert the muzzle of the rifle into the can containing the solution and with the cleaning rod inserted from the breech, pump the barrel full a few times.
Remove and dry with a couple of patches of cloth. Examine to see whether any patches of metal fouling are in evidence, and if so, then remove same as explained above. If no metal fouling is in evidence, then swab out with the swabbing solution. The amount of swabbing required with the swabbing solution can be determined only by experience assisted by the color of the patches of cloth. Ordinarily a couple of minutes' work is sufficient. Dry thoroughly, and oil with 3-in-One.
As a measure of safety a patch should always be run through the bore on the next day and the bore examined to insure that cleaning has been properly done. The bore should then be oiled again with 3-in-One.
1329. Necessity for preventing formation of pits. It is a fact recognized by all that a highly polished steel surface rusts much less easily than one which is roughened; also that a barrel which is pitted fouls much more rapidly than one which is smooth. Every effort, therefore, should be made to prevent the formation of pits, which are merely enlarged rust spots, and which not only affect the accuracy of the piece but also increase the labor of cleaning.
If swabbing solution or standard metal fouling solution is not available, the barrel should be scrubbed as already described, with the soda solution, dried, and oiled with a light oil. At the end of 24 hours it should again be cleaned, when it will usually be found to have "sweated." Usually a second cleaning is sufficient, but to insure safety it should be again examined at the end of a few days, before final oiling.
Of course, the swabbing solution should always be used, if available, for it must be remembered that each "puff" when the bore "sweats" is an incipient rust pit.
What has just been said contemplates the use of the solutions furnished by the Ordnance Department. However, the same result will be obtained with less labor by using Hoppe's Nitro Powder Solvent No. 9, which is sold by all post and camp exchanges, and which the Author, as the result of experience, highly recommends.
1330. How to oil a barrel. The proper method of oiling a barrel is as follows:
Wipe the cleaning rod dry; select a clean patch of cloth and smear it well with sperm or warmed cosmic oil, being sure that the cosmic has soaked into the patch well; scrub the bore with patch, finally drawing the patch smoothly from the muzzle to the breech, allowing the cleaning rod to turn with the rifling. The bore will be found now to be smooth and bright so that any subsequent rust or "sweating" can be easily detected by inspection. (By "sweating" is meant, rust having formed under the coating of metal fouling where powder fouling was present, the surface is puffed up.)
1331. Care of the chamber. The chamber of the rifle is often neglected because it is not readily inspected. Care should be taken to see that it is cleaned as thoroughly as the bore. A roughened chamber delays greatly the rapidity of fire, and not infrequently causes shells to stick.
1332. The bolt. To clean the bolt, remove; clean all parts thoroughly with an oily rag; dry, and before assembling lightly oil the firing pin, the barrel of the sleeve, the striker, the well of the bolt, and all cams.
1333. The sights. Both the front and rear sights should be cared for just as you would care for the works of your watch. If the sights are injured, the rifle will not shoot as aimed.
The front sight cover issued by the Ordnance Department protects the front sight.
1334. The magazine. The magazine should be kept clean and covered with a thin coat of oil.
1335. The stock. The stock should receive a light coat of raw linseed oil once a month, or after any wetting from rain, dew, etc. The oil should be thoroughly rubbed in with the hand.
1336. Care of the mechanism. When the rifle has been wet or exposed to unfavorable climatic conditions, the bolt should be withdrawn and all working parts carefully wiped with a dry cloth, and then gone over with an oily rag.
The same thing should be done after firing.
All working parts should habitually be lightly oiled with a thin-bodied oil, such as "3-in-One."
1337. The care of all metal parts. All metal parts of the rifle should be kept clean and free from rust.
1338. Cams and bearings. All cams and bearings must be kept constantly oiled.
1339. How to apply oil. Do not pour or squirt oil on the rifle.
Put a few drops on a piece of clean cloth, preferably cotton, and rub with the cloth, thereby avoiding the use of an unnecessary amount.
Cams and bearings can be oiled this way. However, if the oiler is used instead because of greater ease in reaching them, oil them lightly. To soak with oil accomplishes no more than to cover with a light coating—it merely results in excessive, undesirable smearing and a waste of oil.
Remember
1340. 1. It is easier to prevent than to remove rust.
2. To remove rust, apply oil with a rag, and let it stand for a while so as to soften the rust; then wipe with a dry rag.
3. Emery paper or a burnisher must never be used in removing rust, for it also removes the bluing.
However, an ordinary rubber eraser will be found very serviceable for removing rust.
4. To prevent rust and dirt in the bore, run a rag through at least once each day.
5. Never, under any circumstances, put away a rifle that has been fired or exposed to bad weather, without first cleaning it.
6. Never lay your rifle flat on the ground. Not only is there danger of dirt or other foreign matter getting into the bore, but a vehicle may run over it, or some one may step on the sight. Always rest it up securely against something. On the target range it is well for every soldier to have a short wood or metal fork, on which to rest his rifle.
7. In coming to the order from any position, always bring the rifle to the ground gently.
Army Regulations Regarding the Rifle
1341. Are enlisted men allowed to take their arms apart?
No; not unless they have the permission of a commissioned officer, and even then only under proper supervision and in the manner prescribed in the descriptive pamphlet issued by the Ordnance Department. (A. R. 292.)
(Except when repairs are needed, the following named parts should never be dismounted by the soldier, and whenever they are taken apart they should be removed only by the company mechanic, or someone else familiar with the handling of tools and delicate mechanism: Bolt stop, cut off, safety lock, sleeve lock, front sight, front sight movable stud, lower band, upper band, and stacking swivel screws.)
(Unless the screw driver is handled carefully and with some skill the screws are sure to be injured either at the head or thread. The soldier may dismount the bolt and magazine mechanism for the purpose of cleaning them, but he is not permitted to do any further dismounting without the authority of a commissioned officer.)
Is the polishing of blued and browned parts permitted?
No, and rebluing, rebrowning, putting any portion of an arm in fire, removing a receiver from a barrel, mutilating any part by fire or otherwise, and attempting to beautify or change the finish, are prohibited. However, the prohibition of attempts to beautify or change the finish of arms is not construed as forbidding the application of raw linseed oil to the wood parts of arms. This oil is considered necessary for the preservation of the wood, and it may be used for such polishing as can be given when rubbing in one or more coats when necessary. The use of raw linseed oil only is allowed for redressing and the application for such purpose of any kind of wax or varnish, including heelball, is strictly prohibited. (Army Regulations 292.)
Is the use of tompions[17] in small arms permitted?
No, it is prohibited by regulations. (Army Regulations 292.)
Should pieces be unloaded before being taken to quarters or tents?
Yes, unless it is otherwise ordered. They should also be unloaded as soon as the men using them are relieved from duty. (Army Regulations 292.)
Should a loaded or unloaded rifle or revolver ever be pointed at anyone in play?
No, under no circumstances whatsoever. A soldier should never point a rifle or revolver at a person unless he intends to shoot him.
Description
1342. Nomenclature of the rifle. The illustrations on this page and those on the two following pages give the nomenclature of the rifles, with which every soldier should be familiar.
The bolt (Fig. 2) consists of the handle, A; sleeve, B; safety lock, C; Cocking piece, D; safety lug, E; extractor, F; extractor collar, G; locking lugs, H; extractor tongue groove, I; and gas escape hole, J.
1343. Rear-sight leaf; drift slide; wind gauge. The illustration on the opposite page shows the rear sight leaf (raised), the drift slide (E), and the wind gauge (F, L.). It is most important that the soldier be thoroughly familiar with the use of these parts, for otherwise it is impossible for him to sight correctly and use his rifle properly.
The leaf is graduated from 100 to 2850 yards. The lines that extend the whole way across the two branches of the leaf, mark 100 yard divisions; those that extend about half way across, mark 50 yard divisions, and the shorter lines mark 25 yard divisions.
The even numbers (4, 6, 8, etc.) on the left branch of the leaf, indicate 400, 600, 800, etc, yards.
The odd numbered hundreds of yards (300, 500, 700, etc.) are on the right branch of the leaf.
The numbers rest on top of the lines to which they refer.
So, if you want to fire at a target 800 yards away, set the rear sight at 8; 1,000 yards, at 10; 1,200 yards, at 12, etc.
With the fly leaf up, ranges from 100 to 2350 yards can be obtained through the peep hole, K; from 100 to 2450 through the lower peep notch, J; and from 1400 to 2750 yards through the upper peep notch, G.
There is a horizontal line on the drift slide, across the peep hole, K. If the peep hole sight is used the sight is set by this horizontal line, which is set opposite the proper graduation (line across branch of leaf).
If the peep notch, J, is used, the sight is set by the short horizontal line—that is, on a line with the top of the notch.
If the peep notch, G, is used, the sight is set by the top of the slide, C, which is set on the proper graduation.
Care must be taken not to use one of the peep notches when the sight has been set for the peep hole, or not to do the reverse, without first changing the sight.
The sighting notch, A, used when the range is 2850 yards, is hardly ever used, because the rifle is very, very seldom, if ever, fired at that range.
By battle sight we mean the position of the rear sight with the leaf down, and it corresponds to a sight setting of 530 yards. The notch, H, that is used when the leaf is down is called the battle sight notch. The battle sight is the only one used in rapid fire. In unexpected, close encounters the side that first opens a rapid and accurate fire has a great advantage over the other.
FOOTNOTES:
[17] Wooden stoppers or plugs that are put into the muzzles of rifles and other arms to keep out dirt and water.
PART IV
RIFLE TRAINING AND INSTRUCTION
(Based on Small-Arms Firing Manual)
1344. Object of system of instruction. The object of the system of rifle training and instruction employed in our Army is two-fold:
- To make of INDIVIDUALS, shots who in battle will make hits instead of misses.
- To make of ORGANIZATIONS, pliable, manageable MACHINES, capable of delivering in battle a volume of EFFECTIVE fire.
1345. To make of INDIVIDUALS shots who in battle will make hits instead of misses. This is accomplished by INDIVIDUAL training and instruction whereby the skill of the soldier as a rifleman is so developed as to be up to the capabilities of his rifle, which is probably the best and most accurate rifle in the world,—that is to say—
Effort is made to so develop the shooting skill of the soldier that he will be able to make his rifle do the things that it is capable of doing.
To accomplish this end the soldier is put through a course of individual instruction that divides itself into three main phases or stages, viz:—
- Preliminary drills. By means of preliminary drills in the form of sighting drills; position and aiming drills; and deflection and correction elevation drills, he is taught the theoretical, fundamental principles of shooting.
- Gallery practice. Having been taught the theoretical, fundamental principles of shooting by means of the preliminary drills mentioned in the proceeding paragraph, the soldier is then shown how to apply them in a simple, elementary way by being put through a course of gallery practice with the .22 Cal. Gallery Practice Rifle, using reduced charges. This practice may be called the transitory phase or period of individual instruction, during which The soldier passes from his acquisition of the theoretical, fundamental principles of shooting to their application to actual firing, on the target range, with the regulation Army rifle.
- Range practice. Having gone through the course in gallery practice, the soldier then fires on the target range, applying and putting into practice, with the regulation Army rifle; the theoretical principles of shooting taught him during the preliminary drills, and in the application and practice of which he was also instructed during the gallery practice.
1346. Other Instruction. While the above phases embody the principal subjects in which a soldier is trained and instructed in developing his skill in shooting, he is also instructed in other matters that are necessary to round out and complete his skill in marksmanship,—for example, the care of the rifle, estimating distances, the effect of light, wind, and temperature, etc.
1347. To make of ORGANIZATIONS pliable, manageable MACHINES, capable of delivering in battle a volume of EFFECTIVE fire. This is accomplished by collective training and instruction, in which a number of soldiers (for example, a squad, platoon, or company), under command of a leader, fire, under assumed tactical situations, at targets which simulate the appearance of an enemy under conditions approaching those found in war. This kind of training and instruction is called, "Combat practice."
In combat practice the individual is trained in firing as part of a tactical unit,—that is to say, in coöperation with others,—and the commanders of the tactical units are taught how to direct and control the fire of their units,[18] obtaining the maximum efficiency of fire by coördination of the skill and efforts of all the individuals of the unit.
PROGRAM OF INSTRUCTION
1348. The following outline of the program of instruction gives a sort of bird's-eye view of the system:
| 1. INDIVIDUAL INSTRUCTION | ||
| 1. Sights and Sighting. | (a) Theory of sighting. (The trajectory; The line of sight; Sighting or aiming.) | |
| (b) Kinds of sights. (Open; Peep; Battle.) | ||
| (c) Kinds of sight. (That is, amount of front sight taken.) (Normal; Fine; Full.) | ||
| 2. Preliminary drills. | (a) Sighting drills. (Importance and purpose; Point of aim; Triangle of sighting.) (Verifying the triangle; causes of errors.) | |
| (b) Position and aiming drills. (Objects [3]; Position exercise; Aiming exercise; Trigger-squeeze exercise; Rapid-fire exercise; Kneeling, sitting down, and prone.) | ||
| (c) Deflection and elevation correction drills. | ||
| 3. Gallery practice. (Object and importance.) | ||
| 4. Range practice. (Instruction practice; Range practice.) | ||
| 5. Other Instruction. (Use of sling; Designation of winds; Zero of rifle; Estimating distances [with the eye, by trial shots, and by trial volleys]; Wind; Temperature; Light; Mirage; Care of rifle, etc.) | ||
INDIVIDUAL INSTRUCTION
Sights and Sighting
Theory of Sighting
1349. The trajectory. As the bullet passes through the air it makes a curved line something like this:
This curved line is called the trajectory.
The resistance of the air and the force of gravity (the force that pulls all bodies toward the earth) are the two things that make the path of the bullet a curved line, just the same as they make the path of the baseball thrown by the player a curved line.
The resistance of the air holds the bullet back and the force of gravity pulls it down, so that the two acting together make the bullet's path curved.
The longer the range the more will the path of the bullet (the trajectory) be curved, as shown by the following drawing:
1350. Sighting or aiming. Now, on the rifle there are two "sights,"—the front sight and the rear sight,—which enable the rifleman to regulate the path of the bullet, as the ball player regulates the path of the ball.
If the ball player wants distance, he throws the ball high (raises the path, the trajectory), using his eye and guesswork, and likewise if the rifleman wants to shoot at a distant target, he, too, shoots the bullet high (that is, he raises the muzzle of his rifle), but he doesn't have to depend upon guesswork. It is all worked out for him by experts and all he need do is to set the rear sight for the proper range,—that is, for the distance the object is from him.
Aiming or sighting a rifle consists in bringing into line three objects: The target, A, the front sight, B, and the rear sight, C.
The rifle is so made and the sights placed on it in such a way that when the piece is held in such a position that the target, the front sight and the rear sight are in line, and the trigger is pulled (squeezed) the bullet will strike the target.
You raise the muzzle of the piece by raising the rear sight,—that is, raising the rear sight has the effect of raising the muzzle, for the higher you raise the rear sight the higher must you raise the muzzle in order to see the front sight and get it in line with the object aimed at and the rear sight.
This is shown in the following illustrations:
The rear sight, C, the front sight, B, and the bull's eye, A, are all on a line with the eye, D, the rear sight being set for 200 yards.
Suppose we wanted to shoot at 2000 instead of 200 yards. We would raise the slide up to 20 (2000 yards) on the sight leaf.
In order to see the bull's eye through the notch sight at 2000, we must raise the eye to the position, D. We now have the rear sight, the bull's eye and the eye in line, but we must bring the front sight in line with them, which is done by raising the muzzle of the piece, giving the result shown in Fig. 4a.
1351. Line of sight. With the open sight the line of sight is determined by a point on the middle line of the notch of the rear sight and the top of the front sight.
With the peep sight, the line of sight is determined by the center of the peep and the top of the front sight.
Kinds of sights
1352. (See Fig. 3, par. 1343, giving rear sight leaf in detail.)
The different kinds of sights are as follows:
(a) Open sight. By open sight is meant the use of any one of the sighting notches.
To use the open sight:
1. Look through the sighting notch at the target. (Fig. 5.)
2. Bring the top of the front sight on a line with the top and in the center of the sight notch, the top of the front sight being just under the bull's eye.
Because of its wide field of view and its readiness in getting a quick aim with it, the open sight is the one that is generally used in the later stages of battle, or when fire is to start immediately.
(b) Peep Sight. By peep sight is meant the use of the peep hole in the drift slide.
To use the peep sight:
1. Look through the peep hole at the target. (Fig. 7.)
2. Bring the top of the front sight to the center of the peep hole, the top of the front sight being just under the bull's eye. (Fig. 8)
Be sure to get the top of front sight, as in Fig. 8, and not the bull's eye, as in Fig. 9, in center of the peep hole.
Advantage of the peep sight. The advantage of the peep sight over the open sight is due to the fact that it is easier to center the top of the front sight in the peep hole and thus get the same amount of front sight each time.
For example you know at once, without measuring, that the dots in the circles, Fig. 10, are not centered, and that the one in the circle in Fig. 11, is.
| Fig. 10 | Fig. 11 |
After a little practice, in looking through the peep hole the eye almost automatically centers the top of the front sight.
Disadvantage of the peep sight. The disadvantage of the peep sight is that its limited field of view and lack of readiness in getting a quick aim with it limit its use to those stages of the combat when comparative deliberation will be possible.
(c) Battle sight. By battle sight we mean the position of the rear sight with the leaf down. There is a sighting notch on the top of the leaf, or rather on top of the leaf slide which works up and down the leaf.
The battle sight is the only sight used in rapid fire. In unexpected, close encounters the side that first opens a rapid and accurate fire has a great advantage over the other. Again, a soldier on patrol generally has no time to set his sight, if suddenly attacked at close range. The battle sight, may, therefore be called the emergency sight,—the handy, quick sight. The soldier should, therefore, become thoroughly familiar with the use of this sight.
Battle sight
The sighting notch in the slide with the rear sight leaf down, is the same height as is the sighting in the drift slide when the rear sight leaf is raised and set at 530 yards.
That is to say, battle sight is equivalent to a sight setting of 530 yards. Therefore, in shooting with battle sight at objects nearer than 530 yards you must aim lower.
Kinds of Sight
1353. (Amount of front sight taken)
(a) Normal sight. The amount of front sight taken in Figs. 6 and 8, is called the normal sight and is the one that the soldier should always use, either with the open notch or peep sight, as it is the only sight which assures the taking of the same amount of front sight every time. In other words it assumes a greater degree of uniformity in sighting, which is one of the most important factors in shooting. By uniformity in sighting is meant taking the same amount of sight each time.
If you take less than the amount of front sight used in the normal sight, it will, of course, have the effect of lowering the muzzle of the piece, and consequently you will hit a point lower than if you had used the normal sight.
On the other hand, if you take more than the amount of front sight used in the normal sight, it will, of course, have the effect of raising the muzzle and consequently you will hit a point higher than if you had used the normal sight.
Fine sight
(b) Fine sight. Although occasionally a man will be found who can get good results by using the fine sight, the average man cannot, and this form of sighting is, therefore, to be avoided.
Full sight
(c) Full sight. The so-called full sight must be avoided under all circumstances. It is merely mentioned and shown here to point out a fault that must be carefully avoided.
The objections to its use are the same as in the case of the fine sight,—that is, lack of uniformity in the amount of sight taken.
1354. What the rifleman looks at when he fires. The eye can be focused accurately upon objects at only one distance at a time; all other objects we see will be more or less blurred and fuzzy looking, depending upon their distance from the object upon which our eye is focused.
The rifleman who attains proficiency focuses his eye on the target while aiming, but he glances at one sight and then the other to see that they are aligned properly, then back at the target, and at the instant of discharge his eye is on the target.
Preliminary Drills
1355. Sighting, Position and Aiming Drills. The importance of the following sighting, position and aiming drills cannot be overestimated. If they are carefully practiced, before firing a single shot at a target, you will have learned how to aim your piece correctly, hold your rifle steadily, squeeze the trigger properly, assume that position best adapted to the particular conformation of your body, and you will also have acquired the quickness and manual skill required for handling the piece in rapid fire.
The sighting, position and aiming drills teach the fundamental principles of shooting, which are the foundation upon which marksmanship is built.
Do not confine yourself to going through these drills only during drill hours, but go through them frequently at other times. The extent to which it will improve your shooting will more than repay you for your trouble.
Sighting Drills
1356. Object. The objects of the sighting drill are:
1. To show how to bring the rear sight, the front sight and the target into the same line,—that is, to show how to sight properly.
2. To discover and point out errors in sighting.—in other words, to discover the errors you make in sighting and show the reasons for same, so that you may be able to correct them properly.
3. To teach uniformity in sighting,—that is, to teach you how to take the same amount of sight each time,—to see every time the same amount of front sight when you look through the rear sight.
Sighting rest for rifle. A good sighting rest for a rifle may be made by removing the top from an empty pistol ammunition box, or a similar box, and then cutting notches in the ends of the box to fit the rifle closely. (Fig. 15.)
| Fig. 15 | Fig. 16 |
Place the rifle in these notches with the trigger guard close to and outside one end.
At a convenient distance above the ground fasten a blank sheet of paper on a wall or on a plank nailed to a stake driven into the ground.
Three legs are fastened to the rest (or it may be placed on the ground without any legs), which is placed 20 or 30 feet from the blank sheet of paper.
Make sure that the piece is canted neither to the right nor left, and without touching the rifle or rest, sight the rifle near the center of the blank sheet of paper (Fig. 17.)