The wood should be finished before the glass is set, at least, it should be filled, if of hard wood, and one coat of paint put on, if of soft wood which is to be enameled.
In setting the glass, place a thin cushion of putty between the rebate and the glass and another thin cushion between the glass and the fillet of wood or the backing which is to protect the back of the glass.
Fit the door, and then put on the hinges and lock. If desired, the tenons may be made keyed as shown in the photograph instead of through as shown in the drawing.
To finish the case, if of oak, apply a coat of light paste filler, the directions being on the filler can. Next put on a coat of white shellac. When this has hardened apply two coats of some good varnish. Allow time for each coat to harden and rub the first coats with haircloth or curled hair, and the last with pulverized pumice and raw linseed oil or crude oil.
If the wood is soft and an enamel white is desired, the enamel is applied not unlike paint. The directions will be found on the cans in which the paint is purchased.
A SIDE CHAIR
A side chair of simple design and construction is here given. The great difficulty with most chair designs is that the back is generally designed narrower than the front, thus necessitating the rails entering the posts or legs at angles. To the amateur this is quite confusing. The chair illustrated is the same in width, both back and front, so that the shoulders of all the rails are at right angles to the sides. The back of the chair is straight, thus simplifying the design still more.
Another thing which is confusing to the beginner in his efforts to lay out the mortises is the irregular placing of the rails. It will be noted that in this design the rails of side, front and back are on the same level.
Plain sawed red oak will be appropriate for this piece. Have the pieces mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides to size, allowing 1/2 in. extra to the lengths for squaring up the ends.
There will be needed the following:
- 4 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 17-1/2 in.
- 4 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in.
- 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 19 in.
- 2 rear posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in.
- 1 back, 3/4 by 9-3/4 by 17-1/2 in.
- 2 cleats, 3/8 by 1 by 16 in.
- 4 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in.
Begin work by cutting the posts to the lengths indicated in the drawing. The lower ends should be chamfered slightly to prevent their splintering from usage. The top ends are cut to an angle of 45 deg., the slope beginning 1/2 in. below the top. Lay out and cut the mortises. To do this, lay off the measurements on one of the posts, then place all four side by side on the bench, with the face marks up. Even the ends with the try-square and then carry the measurements just made across all of them, using the try-square. The rails ought to be shouldered on all four sides. Three-eighths inch is a good thickness for the tenons. The width may be 1-1/4 in. and the length 1 in.
Place the rails side by side on the bench with the joint-edges up and the ends evened. Measure off the desired length on one of them and carry the lines across all of them to indicate the location of the shoulder lines. Separate the pieces and square these lines entirely around all of the sides of each piece. With the tenon saw rip and cross cut to these lines.
The back, it will be noted, is set on a slant to add comfort. Thoroughly clean all the parts and assemble them, using good hot glue. Put the back together first, then the front. After these have dried, put the side rails in place.
Cut and fit the two cleats—one to the front rail and one to the rear rail. Keep them even with the lower edge of the rail so as to form a slight recess at the top when the slats are in place. This is to keep the cushion from sliding off. The slats need not be "let into" the cleats but merely fastened to their top edges. The cushion may be made of Spanish roan skin and should be filled with elastic felt.
In the chair shown, the joints are reinforced by the addition of lag screws. If the glue is good and the joints well fitted, these are not necessary.
AN ARM CHAIR
The arm chair here described and illustrated is intended to be one of the set of diners made after the design of the side chair described on another page. The same general directions for making the side chair apply equally to the arm chair.
The stock given in the following list should be purchased surfaced on four sides and well sandpapered:
- 2 rear posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 38 in.
- 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 26-1/2 in.
- 9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 19-1/2 in.
- 1 rail, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 19-1/2 in.
- 3 slats, 1/2 by 2 by 12-1/2 in.
- 2 arms, 7/8 by 4-1/2 by 20-1/2 in.
- 2 brackets, 7/8 by 2-1/4 by 2-1/2 in.
- 2 cleats, 3/8 by 1 by 19 in.
- 4 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 19 in.
Prepare the posts first by cutting them to the lengths shown in the drawing. In the photograph the front posts have their tops cut off square and the arms fastened to them by means of lag screws. A better way from a mechanical point of view would be to shoulder the top ends on the four sides, cut through-mortises in the arms and insert these tenoned posts into these mortises, pinning the arm to the post by means of small dowels in the edge of the post and through the tenon.
The brackets under the arms are to be fastened to the posts and arms by means of concealed dowels and glue of good quality.
All of the rails should be tenoned into the posts thoroughly, even if the lag screw fastenings are used. If the lag screws are used, the tenons may be what are known as stubb tenons—tenons of short length. Good hot glue should be used in either case.
The shape of the arms is indicated in the drawing. They are fastened to the rear posts by means of dowels and glue.
The slats, or verticals, of the back should not have their ends tenoned but should have the mortises in the rails cut sufficiently large to "let in" the whole end of each. This is much easier and more likely to result in a satisfactory fit than to shoulder them. Any unevenness in the lengths of the respective slats will not affect the fitting of the joints by this latter method.
The tops of the rear posts in this chair, as in the side chair, are cut to angles of 45 deg., beginning the slope at lines marked 1/2 in. from the tops.
The bottom is made up of 2-in. slats fitted between the front and back rails and fastened to cleats which have been previously fastened to the insides of the front and back rails. Keep these cleats low enough on the rails so that the top surfaces of the slats shall rest somewhat below the top edges of the rails. Cushions, such as the one shown, can be purchased ready made or they can be easily made by the amateur.
A good finish for this chair and its mates is obtained as follows: Apply one coat of brown Flemish water stain. This stain in the original package is very dark in tone and unless an almost black finish is wanted, it should be lightened by the addition of one-half or two-thirds water. Apply with a brush or sponge and allow to dry over night. When dry, sandpaper lightly with fine or worn sandpaper to remove the raised grain caused by the water of the stain. Put on a very thin coat of shellac. This is to prevent the "high lights" in close-grained woods from being discolored by the stain in the filler which is to follow. The shellac being very thin does not fill the pores of the wood perceptibly. Next, sand the shellac coat lightly when it has hardened. Apply a coat of paste filler colored considerably darker than the stain to the tone desired for the open grain. If the filler is well stirred and properly applied, one coat ought to be sufficient. If it does not fill the pores satisfactorily, apply another coat when the first has had time to harden. Vandyke brown is used to color the filler, if none but natural color is to be had. On the hardened filler apply a thin coat of shellac. On this apply several coats of wax. The directions for waxing will be found upon the cans in which the wax comes.
A BOOKCASE
This beautiful piece of mission furniture can be made at a very moderate cost by anyone who has a slight knowledge of tools. Considerable labor can be saved by ordering the material from the mill ready cut to size, dressed and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use and it is comparatively easy to obtain. Plain-sawed oak looks well, but is more liable to warp than the quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in pieces as wide as the ones used. For the complete bookcase the following material will be needed:
- 1 top, 3/4 by 15 by 31-1/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
- 1 top back board, 3/4 by 4 by 30-1/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
- 2 sides, 3/4 by 14 by 50 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
- 1 bottom, 3/4 by 14 by 28-3/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
- 1 bottom rail, 3/4 by 4 by 28-3/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
- 1 center piece, 3/4 by 2 by 45-3/4 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
- 4 door sides, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 45-1/4 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
- 4 door ends, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 14 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
- 4 pieces door lattice, 1/2 by 1/2 by 12-1/2 in., hard wood.
- 4 pieces door lattice, 1/2 by 1/2 by 7 in., hard wood.
- 2 bottom cleats, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 13 in., soft wood.
- 2 top cleats, 1 by 1 by 12-1/2 in., soft wood.
- 3 shelves, 1/2 by 12 by 28-1/2 in., soft wood.
- 12 pieces backing, 3/8 by 4 by 29-3/4 in., soft wood.
- 4 hinges.
- 2 door handles.
Begin with the sides by cutting them so they will pair up all right. The front edges are rounded while the back edges are rabbeted on the inside as deep as the backing to be used. The bottoms are cut as shown in the sketch. Holes about 1/2 in. deep should be bored on the inside at the proper places for the wooden pegs which hold up the shelves.
The top and bottom boards should have the front edges rounded and sanded the same as the sides. The top board is sanded on one side only and care should be taken to get the best side up.
Now cut and fit the top back board. This is fastened to the top by means of screws. Screw two cleats to each of the sides as shown and by running screws through these into the top and bottom boards the frame is completed.
The backing which can be made of some cheap lumber is now put on. Next put in the center upright piece between the doors by means of a tenon and mortise at the top and nail at the bottom. The front edge should be rounded and the edge and sides sanded. Cut and fit the bottom rail as shown. It is fastened to the frame by means of cleats on the back side.
The doors are put together by means of a tenon and mortise. They should be rabbeted for the lattice work and the glass. This lattice work can be omitted and leaded glass put in its place which is very becoming to this kind of work.
When the case is completed it must be carefully gone over with sandpaper before any finish is applied.
A mission stain is suitable for work of this kind, but it can also be finished in "golden oak" which is done in the following manner: First put on a golden oak stain and after it has dried for about 2 hours, apply the filler. Let this dry about 10 minutes then rub off with an old rag. Then go over the case again with some very fine sandpaper and after seeing that all parts are free from dust and dirt the varnish can be applied. Three coats of varnish will give a beautiful glossy finish.
A LAMP STAND
A mission table lamp stand for those who use electric lights is shown in the accompanying illustration. It is suitable for either the office or the home and is very simple in design and construction. The stock should be quarter-sawed oak and it can be ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The following pieces will be needed:
- 1 post, 1-1/2 in. sq. by 23 in.
- 1 arm, 1-/8 by 3/4 by 13-1/2 in.
- 1 block, 3/4 in. thick by 6 in. square.
- 1 block, 1 in. thick by 9 in. square.
Square up the base blocks and fasten them together with screws as shown in the detail sketch. A mortise, 1 in. square, is cut in the center of the blocks for the center post.. Lead weights, covered with felt, should be attached to the bottom, as shown. The post has a tenon cut on one end to fit the base, and a mortise cut in the other for the arm. Holes are bored in the arm from the ends for the wires. They can be plugged after the wires are in place. A hole is also bored in the top of the center post to connect with the holes in the arm for the lead wire.
It is best to glue the joints together, although this is not necessary if the joints are a tight fit. Sandpaper the parts thoroughly, then stain to match the other furniture.
AN EXTENSION DINING TABLE
The accompanying sketch and photograph show a simple design of an extension dining table of the mission style. It is very easy to construct and can be built at home by anyone who is at all handy with tools. It should be made of quarter-sawed oak, which can be secured at the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Order the following pieces:
- 2 top pieces, 1 by 23 by 46 in.
- 2 extra leaves, 1 by 12 by 46 in.
- 2 rails, 3/4 by 3 by 44 in.
- 4 rails, 3/4 by 3 by 22 in.
- 2 pieces for posts, 3/4 by 8 by 24 in.
- 2 pieces for posts, 3/4 by 6 by 24 in.
- 4 pieces for feet, 3 by 3 by 14 in.
- 4 pieces for feet, 3 by 3 by 5 in.
- 4 pieces for feet, 1 by 4 by 4 in.
- 4 pieces moulding, 1 by 1 by 10 in.
- 1 piece, 1 by 12 by 27 in., birchwood.
- 2 brackets, 3/4 by 3 by 32 in., birchwood.
- 2 pieces for slide, 1-3/4 by 3 by 36 in., birchwood.
- 4 pieces for slide, 1 by 3 by 36 in., birchwood.
- 12 pieces for slide, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., birchwood.
The feet can be made first by squaring up one end of each and beveling the other as shown in the drawing. The short pieces are fastened to the long ones by means of long screws and glue. The four square pieces should be nailed to the outer ends and holes bored in them for the casters. Prepare the pieces for the posts, and before nailing them together fasten the feet to them with long screws. Be careful to get them on square, else the table will not set level when complete. Now nail and glue the pieces forming the table together and fasten the moulding at the bottom. This moulding should have mitered corners as shown in the bottom view. Also fasten the rest piece to the top of the post, using long screws and glue.
The slides can be made next. The pieces are made and fastened together with screws as shown in the enlarged detail view. This slide, if made with care, is a good one. The center piece should be firmly fastened to the post rest with long screws. The screws that fasten into the top should be inserted from below through counter-bored holes as shown.
Miter the rails at the corners and glue them to the top. Blocks can be used on the inside if desired, which will make a much stronger construction. Screw the two brackets to the top as shown. These help to support the table when it is extended.
When complete the table should be carefully gone over with fine sandpaper, and all glue and rough spots removed. Apply stain of the desired color. This can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.
AN OAK-BOUND CEDAR CHEST
This cedar chest for storing unused bedding or furs is not a difficult thing to make and when made, the hard oak binding takes the wear and protects the softer cedar so that the chest ought to serve several generations. Order the stock as follows:
CEDAR
- 2 top and bottom pieces, 7/8 by 16-1/2 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 2 sides, 7/8 by 18-7/8 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 2 ends, 7/8 by 18-7/8 by 14-3/4 in., S-2-S.
OAK
- 2 overhanging top pieces, 1 by 1 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.
- 2 overhanging top pieces, 1 by 1 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
- 2 lock and hinge rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 2 lock and hinge rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 2 base pieces, 1 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 2 base pieces, 1 by 3-1/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-2-S.
Specify thoroughly seasoned Tennessee red cedar and plain sawed white oak and have the different pieces mill-planed and sandpapered as indicated in the stock-bill. This bill allows 1/2 in. extra on the length and the width of each piece for "squaring up" of all pieces except those marked to be surfaced on four sides.
Begin by squaring the sides and ends to size. Probably the best joint for the corners is the dovetail. If the worker is not experienced in woodworking, some of the more simple joints will do. It will be noted that the drawing and stock-bill call for the simplest form of joint, that in which the sides of the chest lap over the end. For the dovetail joint it will be necessary to add 2 in. more to the length of the end pieces, making them 16-3/4 in. each in the rough.
Having got the sides and ends ready, fasten them together. The perspective shows the sides fastened to the ends with ornamental headed nails. Common nails are first used, being equally spaced, and the ornamental heads are afterwards placed so as to cover their heads.
Next square the bottom and nail it to the parts just assembled. Square the top to the same size.
The base stuff is squared on one edge only. The second edge—the upper one—is to be beveled or sloped 1/8 in. to facilitate dusting and for appearance sake. Fit these base pieces to place, mitering the joints. Before fastening the parts to the chest proper, gauge a line 3/4 in. from the lower edge and to a point 4-1/2 in. from each end, cut out to this line and shape the base as shown in the drawing. Use finishing nails for fastening the base to the chest. The heads should be "set" so they may be covered later with a putty colored to match the finish.
In a similar manner plane up, cut and fit the back and hinge rails. These rails should be kept a "scant" 1/8 in. below the top edges of the chest proper. The overhang of the lid fits down over in such a way as to form a dust-proof joint between lid and chest proper.
The overhang of the lid of 1 in. by 1-in. stock may next be mitered, fitted and nailed to the lid. Thoroughly sandpaper all parts not so treated and finish as follows: Put on all the oak pieces, two coats of natural paste filler. This is best done before they are fastened in place. Directions will be found on the cans in which the filler is kept.
The red of the cedar may be heightened by applying a mahogany stain made of Bismark brown aniline and boiling water, in the proportion of 3 qt. of water to 1 oz. of aniline. If applied hot the stain will enter the wood better. When dry, sandpaper lightly with No. 00 paper, both this and the oak-filled pieces.
Fasten the oak pieces in place and give the whole exterior a very thin coat of shellac. After this has hardened, apply two coats of wax. Wax comes in paste form and is to be applied with a cloth very sparingly. Allow it to stand five or ten minutes then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to polish. The first coat is allowed to stand 24 hours before the second is applied in a similar manner.
Another finish, known as an egg-shell gloss shellac finish, is obtained by omitting the wax and instead applying from two to five more coats of shellac. Allow each coat 24 hours in which to harden, and rub each hardened coat to a smooth finish, using curled hair, or fine steel wool, or fine oiled sandpaper, before applying the next.
The metal reinforcements for the corners can be bought at a hardware store, as can the lock, hinges, and handles. These parts are applied in the usual manner—butt hinges being used.
If well made, the chest is practically airtight. The interior is all of red cedar, while the effect of the exterior in combining the light oak and the red cedar is striking.
A TOOL FOR MAKING MORTISES
In the construction of mission furniture where mortise joints are mostly used, those who cannot have access to a mortising machine will find the following method of great assistance in obtaining a true mortise, which is necessary in work of this kind.
Take a block of wood, A, the exact thickness of the piece B to be mortised, and with an auger bore a hole, the same size as the width of the mortise to be made, exactly parallel to the sides of the block. This can best be done on a drill press or a wood boring machine. If no machine is available, great care should be taken in boring by hand, to get the hole as nearly true as possible. Then nail a cleat, C, on the side of the block, A, and let it extend down on piece B. Use a clamp to hold the block in place while boring out the mortise. By changing the position of the block and boring a number of holes, any length of mortise can be made. The holes should afterwards be squared up with a chisel.
A DRESSER FOR CHILD'S PLAYROOM
This dresser can be made of two kinds of wood as marked on the drawing or it can be made all of one kind. The original dresser was made of oak and walnut and was finished natural, the contrast between the light and dark woods adding much to the value of the piece in the eyes of the little ones. Have all surfaces that will show well sandpapered at the mill. The following is a list of the material wanted:
- 4 oak posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
- 3 walnut drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 17 in., S-2-S.
- 6 yellow poplar drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 12 in., S-2-S.
- 3 yellow poplar backs, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 3 yellow poplar bottoms, 3/8 by 12 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 4 oak front stretchers, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
- 4 oak side rails, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
- 2 walnut side panels, 1/4 by 11 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 8 oak drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 6 oak drawer guides, 1/2 by 3/4 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 4 oak back stretchers, 7/8 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 1 oak top, 5/8 by 14 by 20-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 3 sq. ft. of 3/8 in. matched yellow pine ceiling for back.
MIRROR SUPPORT
- 1 walnut piece, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 20-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 1 walnut piece, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 18 in., S-2-S.
- 1 oak piece, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 2 oak pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 11 in., S-2-S.
- 1 walnut bracket piece, 7/8 by 1-1/4 by 5 in., S-2-S.
MIRROR FRAME PARTS
- 2 walnut pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 2 walnut pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 2 oak pieces, 1/4 by 3/8 by 10 in., S-4-S.
- 2 oak pieces, 1/4 by 3/8 by 8 in., S-4-S.
- 1 back, 3/16 by 8 by 10 in., soft wood.
- 2 cleats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 8 in.
- 1 plain mirror glass, 7-1/2 by 9-1/2 in.
Begin by planing the four posts to length. The lower ends should be slightly beveled to prevent their slivering. Cut the mortises for the tenons that are on the ends of the side rails. These rails are to be 7/8 by 2 in. and the tenons should be 3/8 by 1-1/4 in. wide by 3/4 in. long. The posts should be rabbeted down to their middles to a depth of 3/8 in. so as to receive the 1/4-in. end panels. The end rails should be cut to length and their tenons worked after one edge of each has been rabbeted as were the posts.
Having squared the panels to size, put the two ends of the dresser together with glue. Next make the four frames which are to carry the drawers. They should measure from outside to outside, in length 17-1/2 in.; in width, 12-1/2 in. It is intended that the short pieces shall be tenoned into the long ones. When these frames are ready, cut out each corner as indicated in the cross section drawing. Reduce to size the drawer guides and fasten them in place. Dowel the frames to the ends of the dresser in the places indicated on the drawing. Put on the back, nailing into frames to the ends of the dresser in the places indicated and fasten the top in place, putting screws into it from the under side.
The mirror frame and support should next be made. The drawing shows quite clearly the parts and their relation to each other. All the slopes are of 45 deg. Instead of rabbeting the mirror frame, a 1/4 by 3/8-in. fillet of oak is nailed around to form the recess, the walnut frame and oak fillet making a pretty contrast. All nail holes are to be filled with putty colored to match the finish. Wooden pins or round-head screws are to be used to fasten the mirror frame to its support and should be placed above center an inch or so.
The drawers are to be constructed in the usual manner. It is a good plan to make the grooves 1/16 in. narrower than the stock is thick to insure a fit, chamfering the under or back sides of the bottom and back if necessary. Make the sides of the drawers of such a length that when the drawer has been pushed in as far as it will go, the front will be recessed about 1/4 in. behind the front crosspieces. Groove the inside of the drawer front 3/16 in. to receive the bottom. The mirror should not be placed until the wood has been finished.
Finish the wood natural, apply three coats of varnish. Rub the first two with haircloth or curled hair and the last with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. This gives an egg-shell gloss. For a dull finish, rub the varnish after it has become bone dry with pulverized pumice stone and water, using a piece of rubbing felt. Rub until the surface is smooth and even, and clean with a wet sponge or chamois skin. If a polished finish is desired, rub first with pulverized pumice stone and water, then with rotten stone and water. Finish with a mixture of oil and a little pulverized rotten stone.
CUTTING TENONS WITH A HAND-SAW
This home-made tool will be a great help in the construction of mission furniture. With its use, tenons may be entirely cut with a saw, discarding the use of a chisel and mallet. The device consists of a convenient length of straight board, A, Fig. 1, wide enough to cover the widest piece to be tenoned. A piece of board, B, is fastened to A with brads or small screws. This board should have a thickness equal to the piece to be cut from the side of the tenon. The piece C is fastened to A and B with small cleats at their upper ends. The space between B and C should be wide enough for the blade of a saw to run through easily, and also long enough to take in the widest part of the saw blade. The tool and piece to be tenoned are placed in a vise as shown in Fig. 2. The width of the piece removed for the tenon may be varied by putting in pieces of cardboard between the work, E, and the piece A, Fig. 1.
ARTS AND CRAFTS OIL LAMP
Electricity and gas are not always accessible in suburban or country homes and the regular type of a mission lamp would be of little use. The illustration shows an ordinary round wick kerosene lamp fitted out in mission style.
A few modifications were made in the design of an expensive lamp to simplify the construction. The lamp should have a tall chimney. The dimensions given in the drawings, and the photograph, will explain themselves. Many of the details can be worked up by the maker.
The body of the lamp is made of 1/2-in. oak and is provided with openings as shown. The interior receptacle is very handy for holding a match box, smoking articles, etc.
A piece of copper band, 1 in. wide, is fastened to the body with large upholsterers' tacks, to give it a finished appearance. The base is 7/8 in. thick and in order to prevent tilting is provided with four square feet, 1/4 in. thick. The top piece of the body is 1/2-in. oak, which is provided with a hole large enough to receive the bowl of the lamp. If such a lamp is not at hand, one can be purchased at a very reasonable price.
The shade is made of oak frames set in with clouded art glass panels. The different sections of the frames are fastened together with brass screws and the glass is held in place by triangular cleats of oak. Be sure and fit the shade with cardboard panels before ordering the glass. The cardboard can be used as a pattern in cutting the glass, and the glass will then fit without recutting, which is quite difficult.
The glass beaded fringe should be of suitable color to harmonize with the finished lamp.
The shade is supported by four brackets cast in bronze from a wood pattern (dimensions given) and finished by filing, buffing and lacquering.
ANOTHER CHINA CLOSET
The china closet shown in the accompanying illustration is well proportioned and of pleasing appearance. It can be made of any one of the several furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed oak will be found to give the most pleasing effect. The stock should be ordered from the mill ready sawed to length, squared and sanded. In this way much hard labor will be saved. The following pieces will be needed:
- 1 top, 1 by 19 by 38 in., S-1-S.
- 4 posts, 3/4 by 3 by 59 in., S-2-S.
- 4 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 31 in., S-1-S.
- 4 end uprights, 1 by 2 by 48-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 4 end rails, 1 by 3 by 16 in., S-2-S.
- 2 lattice rails, 1 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
- 1 top board, 3/4 by 3 by 36 in., S-1-S.
- 4 side door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 47 in., S-2-S.
- 6 cross rails, 3/4 by 2 by 12 in., S-2-S.
- 4 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 4 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 8 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 12-1/2 in., S-2-S.
- 4 shelves, 5/8 by 16 by 32 in., S-1-S., poplar.
- 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 55 in., soft wood.
- 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 28 in., soft wood.
- 4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 14 in., soft wood.
Having this material on hand, start with the four posts, as they are all alike. Clamp them together, being careful to have them of the right length, and the ends square. Trim the bottom, as shown in the detail drawing, and then lay out the mortises for the front and back rails. These rails can now be laid out and the tenons cut to fit the mortises in the posts. The back rails should, in addition, be rabbeted for the back board as shown. The end rails are fastened to the posts by means of screws through 1-in. square cleats, fastened on the inside of the posts as shown in the section A-A. In all cases the screws should be run through the cleats into the framing so the heads will not show. The end rails should be rabbeted on the inside for the latticework and the glass.
The back board should have the corners rounded as shown and be fastened to the top board with screws through from the bottom side. The top board is then fastened to the top rail cleats in the same manner.
The doors are put together by means of tenons and mortises. The frames should be rabbeted on the inside for the latticework and the glass. Leaded glass can be used in place of this latticework, if it is desired. Suitable hinges and a catch should be supplied. These can be purchased at any hardware store.
The shelves should be cut out at the corners to fit around the cleats. They rest on small blocks which are fastened to the cleats, or if desired, small holes can be drilled and pins used instead.
The back is put on in the usual manner. A mirror can be put in without much trouble if it is desired.
When putting the frame together, glue should be used on the joints, as it makes them much stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together perfectly square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and the glass. When it is complete, go over the whole carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots. Scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints, as stain will not take when there is any glue. The closet can be finished in any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.
AN OAK BEDSTEAD
The accompanying sketches show an artistic design for a mission bed, so simple in construction and design that most any one that has a few tools and a knowledge of their use can make it. It is best made of quarter-sawed oak, as this wood is the easiest to procure and work up and looks well with any finish. If the stock is ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much of the hard labor will be saved.
The following is a list of the material needed:
- 2 posts, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 50 in.
- 2 posts, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 44 in.
- 2 end rails, 1 by 6 by 56 in.
- 2 side rails, 1 by 6 by 78 in.
- 5 end rails, 1 by 4 by 56 in.
- 3 end rails, 1 by 2 by 56 in.
- 8 vertical slats, 3/8 by 6 by 11-1/2 in.
- 10 vertical slats, 3/8 by 2 by 11-1/2 in.
- 2 cleats, 1 by 1 by 78 in.
- 5 slats, 3/4 by 3 by 55-1/2 in.
- 20 blocks, 1 by 1 by 3 in.
Square up the four posts in pairs and lay out the mortises as per drawing. To do this, lay them side by side on a flat surface with the ends square and mark them with a try-square. The tenons on the end rails are laid out in the same manner as the posts. Four of the end rails should be marked and mortises cut for the upright slats as shown in the detail drawing. The tenons on the end rails are about 1 in. long, while those on the slats can be 3/4 in. long. Fit all the parts together before gluing to see that they fit square and tight. After the glue has been applied clamp them together perfectly square and set them away to dry. They should dry at least twenty-four hours before the clamps are removed.
While the ends are drying, the side rails can be made. These have a 1-in. square cleat screwed to the inner side for the slats to rest upon. If springs are used, five slats will be sufficient. They can be placed where the springs will rest upon them. After the position of the slats has been located, nail small blocks at their sides to hold them in place. For fastening the side rails to the posts, patent devices can be purchased at a local hardware store. The posts will have to be mortised to receive these, and care should be exercised to get them in the right place.
When the bed is complete go over it carefully and scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints, as the finish will not take where there is any glue. Remove all rough spots with fine sandpaper; then apply the stain you like best, which may be any of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose. If this bed is well made and finished, it will be an ornament to any home.
AN OAK FOOTSTOOL
The footstool shown in the illustration can be made from any kind of wood, but when it is intended to be finished in mission style, quarter-sawed oak will produce the best effect. The material needed will be as follows:
- 1 top, 1 by 9-1/2 by 12 in., S-1-S.
- 2 legs, 3/4 by 8 by 12 in., S-2-S.
- 1 brace, 3/4 by 7 by 9 in., S-1-S.
Order these pieces cut to length, squared and sanded. A full-sized layout of the front view should be made to get the correct bevels for the legs and brace. The design of the legs can be varied to suit the fancy of the maker. For such a design as shown draw one-half of it on paper; fold on the center line and with scissors cut both sides of the outline by following the lines drawn. Trace around this pattern on the wood, and saw out with a compass or keyhole saw. The sawed edges should be smoothed and sandpapered.