Model Flying Machines

The Blerioplane Flyer. (Plate II.)

The Blerioplane Flyer is of the simple monoplane type and is very easily constructed. It is a remarkable flyer when properly adjusted and will fly over one hundred and fifty feet.

The motor base is a piece of 3/16 dowel, 12 inches long. The edges of the planes are made of fine steel piano wire bent to the shape shown in Plate I. The planes are covered with silk which is carefully turned over at the edges, around the wires and fastened either by sewing or with bamboo varnish. The dimensions of the planes are clearly shown in the illustration.

The propeller is placed at the rear of the machine, the smaller plane being considered the elevator. The bearing is shown in detail in the accompanying illustration. It is made by folding and bending a piece of sheet brass into the shape shown. A piece of steel piano wire is passed through the forward end of the motor base to act as an anchor hook for the rubber band.

The propeller is easily wound up by hand.

One side of the main plane will have to be made slightly larger than the other in some cases in order to counteract the twisting action of the propeller by one side of the machine more of a lift than the other.

The planes are adjusted by bending the wire edge. They should form a slight dihedral angle. The rubber strands lie along the top of the motor base so as to bring the centre of the propeller thrust coincident with the centre of pressure on the planes. Bending the front edge of the planes down will cause the machine to take a downward path while bending them up will cause the aeroplane to fly higher. A little experimental work will determine the proper position.

The Monoplane Flyer. (Plate III.)

The fusellage or "backbone" of the machine is formed out of a piece of thin walled aluminum tubing having an outside diameter of one-quarter of an inch and measuring twenty-four inches long.

The framework of the planes is formed out of rattan reed, one-eighth of an inch in diameter. The main plane is 19 inches across from tip to tip. It is 4 inches deep at the centre and 5 1/2 inches at the widest point near the tips. The framework is spread near the centre of each wing by a piece of rattan reed 5 1/4 inches long. The ends of the reed are joined by rolling a small piece of copper sheet into a tube and closing it around the reed tightly with a pair of pliers.

The reed forming the frame of the plane passes through a hole in the aluminum tube.

The plane forming the tail is almost the same in all respects save that of size as the forward main plane.

A small vertical fin 3 inches wide and 3 1/2 inches deep is placed below the tail plane, in line with the "backbone" to act as a keel or rudder and hold the machine to a straight course.

The covering of the planes is China silk or bamboo paper coated with bamboo varnish.

The bearing is made out of sheet brass bent into the shape shown and fastened to the tube by lashing with a wire.

The propeller should be 6 inches in diameter. One or two glass beads placed between the bearing and the propeller will reduce the friction.

The motive power consists of 8 strands of 3/32 x 3/32 inch rubber connected at one end to the propeller and at the other to a hook at the rear end of the aluminum tube.

The machine is provided with two piano wire skids to protect the propeller in landing.

If the aeroplane tends to rise too abruptly when in flight, bend the rear edge of the main planes up. If on the contrary, it dips or dives, bend the rear edge down.

The Baby Racer. (Plate IV.)

This is one of the smallest and simplest machines of the twin propelled racing models. The two main members of the motor base or fusellage are 1/8" x 1/8" in section and 5 1/2 inches long. One end of each is tapered and then glued and bound with strong thread. The opposite ends are held apart by a brace made from flat steel wire. The wire is hammered out flat at the ends and drilled with a small hole to form a propeller bearing. The details of the brace are given in the upper right-hand corner of the plate. The brace is fastened to the sticks by lashing with thread.

It is well to place a small wooden brace across the frame about midway of its length. This will serve to considerably stiffen the frame and prevent it from sagging under the tension of the rubber bands.

The planes are cut from stiff paper. The main plane is 7 1/4 inches across and the elevation plane 2 3/4 inches. Each plane is cut to the shape shown in the drawings and stiffened by gluing a thin wooden strip across the front edges of the planes.

A small piece of steel wire is passed around the front end of the frame and bent to form two anchor hooks for the rubber bands. It is then lashed firmly into position and the thread covered with glue so that it will not untwist if broken.

The propellers are made from thin whitewood or veneer. They are four inches in diameter and formed by steaming and bending. The shaft is formed out of brass wire by bending it around the centre of the propeller. Two small beads are slipped over the shaft to eliminate friction between the propeller and the bearing.

The planes are held in position by small rubber bands. The sketches in Fig. 53 explain exactly how this is accomplished.

The sticks glued along the front edges of the planes are sufficient to give them a slight angle. The machine is controlled by moving the planes back and forth so as to shift their lifting effort to the proper position.

The motor consists of two strands of 3/32 x 3/32 rubber attached to each propeller.

The Peerless Racer. (Plate V.)

This excellent flyer is very simple to put together and by carefully following the directions anyone can construct the machine and obtain splendid flights.

The two long members of the frame or fusellage, marked "A" and "B" in the drawing are 36 inches in length. They measure 1/4 x 3/16 in cross section.

Bevel one 1/4 inch side of one end of each of the two long sticks so that they can be joined to form an angle as shown in the upper right hand corner of the accompanying plate. The tip should not be greater than one quarter inch in width after joining. Glue the ends together using plenty of glue and before it has set, bind with strong linen thread, starting at the tip and winding back for about one inch. The surplus glue will squeeze out between the threads and when hard prevent them from unwinding if broken.

An aluminum brace must be made by flattening the ends of a piece of 1/8 inch aluminum rod. The rod should be about 5 1/4 inches long so that when the brace is placed 5/8 of an inch back from the ends of the sticks, the distance between them will be about 4 3/4 inches.

Glue and bind a small wooden cross brace to the frame, 12 inches from the rear end. The brace should be made 3/16 of an inch wide and 3/32 of an inch thick.

The elevating blocks are 3/4 of an inch long, 3/16 of an inch thick, 3/8 of an inch high at the rear and 1/2 inch high at the front. They should be fastened to the machine by gluing and binding six inches back from the tip. The highest part of the blocks should be towards the front of the machine as shown in the illustration. Be careful to see that the frame is lined up perfectly true and then lay it aside until the glue dries.

The propeller bearings are made from No. 18 hard sheet aluminum. It is cut into a strip 1/4 of an inch wide and then drilled and bent as shown in the accompanying illustrations. The bearings are screwed on the rear ends of the sticks "A" and "B." It is also a good plan to bind some linen thread around tightly.

Pass the propellers through the bearings and bend the end of the shaft into the shape of a hook, being very careful not to twist the bearings during the operation. A bead should be slipped over the propeller shaft previous to passing it through the bearing so that it comes between the bearing and the propeller and lessens the friction.

Bore a small hole through the frame of the machine 1/2 inch back from the tip, making the hole pass from side to side. Pass a piece of stiff wire through this hole and bend back each end snugly to the frame to form the anchor hooks as illustrated. Bind some thread over the anchor hooks to keep them from twisting.

Bend two small pieces of wire into "S" shaped hooks and slip one over each of the anchor hooks.

Pass the rubber skein through one of the "S" hooks and back to the hook in the end of the propeller shaft, weaving it back and forth seven times so that there are seven strands. Do the same with the other propeller. The ends of the rubber must be tied to the hook with some strong cotton cord. The cord should be soft and the rubber should be passed loosely around the hook so that it will not easily become cut.

The planes are made of hard fibre 1/32 of an inch thick. The main plane is 22 inches long and 3 1/2 inches wide. The elevating plane is 8 inches long and 3 1/2 inches wide. The ends are rounded as shown in the illustration. Glue a strip of wood 1/16 x 3/16 inches to the front edge of each plane. The strip for the large main plane should be 19 inches long and that for the elevating plane 5 inches. The edges should be smoothed with a piece of fine sandpaper and rubbed down until they are dry.

The planes are attached to the frame by rubber bands in the usual manner. The edges of the planes should be squeezed together slightly until they are slightly concave on the under side. The position of the main plane will have to be determined by trial. The front edge of the elevating plane should rest on the elevating blocks.

The propeller should be given from 600-700 turns. The propellers should be six inches in diameter and of medium pitch.

The Peerless Racer is a splendid flyer and will fly over 1,000 feet if properly adjusted.

The Competition Flyer. (Plates VI and VII.)

The Competition Flyer does not differ materially from the Peerless Racer just described except in some of the details of construction. The motor base of the machine is composed of two long members 36 inches in length tapered and lashed together at one end in the usual manner. The other ends are held apart by a wooden brace (marked a) about 4 7/8 inches long. Two other braces (marked b and c) are placed at equal distances along the frame.

The bearings used on this machine are similar to those used on the Peerless Racer and are fastened to the rear end of the frame by three small screws.

The planes of this machine are "built up" planes, that is, they are double surfaced. The main plane is 24 inches long and four inches broad.

The accompanying illustration shows the details of the planes. The long members of the planes are made of whitewood or spruce and the edges and ribs are split bamboo.

The elevating plane is 9 1/2 inches long and five inches wide.

The planes are covered with bamboo paper and then given a coat of bamboo varnish. The front plane is tilted upwards by two small elevating blocks similar to those used on the Peerless Racer.

The machine is fitted with skids made by bending 3/32 inch square split bamboo into the shape shown and lashing them to the frame. The skids protect the planes and the propeller of the machine from possible damage in landing.

The propellers should be of the racing type, six inches in diameter and carved out from a blank in the method described in the chapter on propellers.

The planes are held to the frame of the machine by rubber bands in the usual manner. Their exact position will have to be determined by experiment.

The Long Distance Racer. (Plates VIII and IX.)

The Long Distance Racer is a model adapted from the Competition Flyer and similar to it in many respects.

The drawings show the dimensions and arrangement of the various parts sufficiently well so that little comment is necessary.

The planes are of the built-up type, being made entirely from split bamboo according to the size and shape shown in the drawings. They are covered with bamboo paper and given two coats of bamboo varnish.

The propellers are of the racing type and carved from wood in the manner described in the chapter on propellers.

The machine is fitted with skids to prevent possible damage to the propeller and planes. The front plane is bent so as to form a slight dihedral angle. This tends to make the machine keep to a straight course.

The rubber skeins are each composed of 7 to 10 strands of 3/32 x 3/32 inch rubber. The best number will have to be determined for each particular machine.

Fleming-Williams Flyer. (Plate X.)

The Fleming-Williams model is a type well known in England where it has won many prizes. The motor base is a piece of "T" section wood 48 inches long. The detailed dimensions of the "T" section are given on the plate. A crosspiece B, 5/16 square and 8 1/2 inches long is fastened at one end of the motor by gluing and lashing as shown in the drawing.

Two braces, C, C, 1/8 x 1/4 inches in section are lashed near the ends of the cross piece and brought together on the motor base so as to form a triangle. This is covered with bamboo paper to form a triangular shaped plane called the stabilizer.

The bearings are simple strips of hard sheet aluminum bent around the ends of the cross brace and fastened into place with several small screws.

The main plane is formed by bending 1/32nd inch drill rod into the shape shown in the detailed drawing on the plate. Mark out the wing form on a board, and by means of nails driven into the board around the outline, bend the drill rod into shape, splicing the ends neatly with some fine wire. Then bend the ribs into shape and twist the ends around the wing form. It is a very good plan to solder all joints. Cover the frame with bamboo paper and when dry apply two coats of "bamboo varnish."

Drill a hole through the motor base at the front to receive a piece of steel wire. Bend the wire to form two anchor hooks.

The propellers are each 8 inches in diameter. Each propeller is driven by a skein composed of 50 feet of 3/32 x 3/32 rubber.

The main plane is fastened temporarily to the motor base with rubber bands. Its normal position is about 17 inches from the tip of the machine, but its exact position will have to be determined by experiment. After it is formed, the plane should be fastened into position more securely.

The propellers must be of opposite pitch and wound in opposite directions. Each should receive from 500 to 600 turns. The model is launched by casting from the hand as though it were a spear.

FLYING THE MODELS.

A suitable winder of some sort is essential for winding up the strands of a model aeroplane.

A winder is most easily made from an egg beater of the dover pattern. The egg beater is dismantled and fitted up in the manner shown in the illustration. The blades are fitted with hooks which engage those on the end of the rubber skein.

In order to wind a model remove the skeins from the anchor hooks and hook them on the winder. Have some one hold the machine at the rear end, slipping the fingers around the propellers to keep them from untwisting. Stretch the skeins out to about twice their normal length and commence to wind. Gradually shorten the skein as the winding progresses until, at the time it is finished, it is down to its normal length.

In winding the machine be careful to do it in such a manner that the machine is not wrenched or twisted. Always count the number of turns given the winder so that there will be no danger of twisting them up too tightly and causing them to break.

The successful flying of a model aeroplane is an acquired knack just like swimming or bicycle riding. It is usually necessary to make several attempts before the model can be made to fly well. As soon as one gets acquainted with the vagaries of a model aeroplane it is a very easy matter to launch and adjust a machine.

The large page in the front of the book shows the right way of launching a model. The fingers are passed over the propellers and the frame grasped firmly, but gently. The tip of the machine should be raised and pointed slightly upward. Then give it a gentle slow push forward and release it. Always launch a machine into the wind, that is against it. The machine will fly forward, rise rapidly, turn completely around and race down the wind for a thousand feet or more in the case of some of the larger machines described in this book when properly adjusted.

All the models described in this book with the exception of the first three must be flown out of doors because, when properly handled, they will travel upwards of one thousand feet.

• Each month it gives articles of value, based on definite results obtained by the foremost experimenters-propellers surfaces, general design, etc.

• Successful aeroplanes involving new features are described in minute detail, with scale drawings and all dimensions.

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• Send for a sample copy and compare it with any other aeronautical magazine.

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This is undoubtedly one of the most complete and comprehensive treatises on the subject ever published, and a close study of its pages will enable one to master all the details of the wireless transmission of messages. The author has filled a long-felt want and has succeeded in furnishing a lucid, comprehensible explanation in simple language of the theory and practice of wireless telegraphy and telephony.

The book treats the subject from an entirely new standpoint. Several very novel and original ideas have been carried out in its making. It is well illustrated by over one hundred and fifty interesting photographs and drawings. All diagrams have been made in perspective showing the instruments as they actually appear in practice. The drawings are carefully keyed and labeled. Many of the photographs are accompanied by phantom drawings which reveal the name and purpose of each part.

It is a book which the wireless experimenter cannot afford to be without. It will prove even more valuable to the layman.

Among the contents are: Introductory. Wireless Transmission and reception. The ether. Electrical Oscillations. Electro-magnetic waves. The means for radiating and intercepting electric waves. Aerial Systems. Earth Connection. The Transmitting Apparatus. Current Supply. Spark Coils and Transformers. Condensers. Helixes. Spark Gaps. Anchor Gaps. Aerial Switches, Etc. The Receiving Apparatus. Detectors, etc. Tuning Coils and Loose Couplers. Variable Condensers. Tuning and Coupling. Directive Wave Telegraphy. The Dignity of Wireless. Its applications and service. Wireless in the army and navy. Wireless on an aeroplane. How a message is sent and received. The Wireless Telephone. The Ear. How we hear. Sound and Sound Waves. The Vocal Cords. The Structure of Speech. The Telephone Transmitter and Receiver. The Photophone. The Thermophone. The Selenium.

Thoroughly up to date and unusually complete. Gives in minute detail, full directions for constructing wireless apparatus and various outfits capable of receiving from 100 to 1,500 miles and transmitting 3 to 100 miles. Also clearly explains the purpose and action of each instrument. Directions for Operating and Adjusting, etc.

I.—Introduction. II.—The Apparatus. III.—Aerials and Earth Connections. IV.—Induction Coils. V.—Interrupters. VI.—Transformers. VII.—Oscillation Condensers and Leyden Jars. VIII.—Spark Gaps or Oscillators. IX.—Transmitting Helixes. X.—Keys. XI.—Aerial Switches and Anchor Gaps. XII.—Hot Wire Ammeter. XIII.—Oscillation Detectors. XIV.—Tuning Coils and Tuning Transformers. XV.—Receiving Condensers. XVI.—Telephone Receivers and Headbands. XVII.—Operation. XVIII.—The Amateur and the Wireless Law. How to Secure a License. Oscillation Helix. Quenched Spark Gap. Rotary Gaps. Kick-Back. The Variometer. New Crystal Detectors. The Audion.—Appendix.

The value of this book has been greatly increased by the addition of much new subject matter and many illustrations of recent interest.

The new text explains fully how to build the most recent forms of Quenched Gaps, Rotary Gaps, Dough-Nut Tuners, Kick-back Preventers, Audion Detectors and numerous other instruments, accompanied by dimensioned working drawings. Several very interesting and instructive photographs have been included.

If you are interested in Wireless you need this book.

If you want to be an expert and an authority you must surround yourself with all available aids and helps. You have one of the best in the AMATEUR’S WIRELESS HANDY BOOK.

It contains 36 pages of wireless calls, 1500 in all. The list is complete and thoroughly revised to date and embodies all the wireless land stations in the world, the ships of the Merchant Marine, the U. S. Navy, the Revenue Service, etc. They are all there. All the calls are classified alphabetically. The list is the most reliable and complete in existence. All obsolete stations have been abolished. All corrections and changes have been made from the official lists.

Pages with spaces to fill in names, call letters, etc., make it possible to keep an accurate record of nearby amateur stations.

THE CODES, BOTH MORSE AND CONTINENTAL, are shown in the form of two large full-page charts printed in heavy black type so that they can be read from a distance.

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And last but not least Over 100 large hook-ups of wiring diagrams fully illustrated in a concise and clear manner. Loop and straightaway aerials, grounds, helixes, spark gaps, anchor gaps, leyden jars, induction coils, transformers, keys, aerial switches, tuning coils, loading coils, loose couplers, variometers, fixed condensers, silicon, electrolytic, carborundum, perikon and audion detectors, telephones, potentiometers, etc., you can find them all and how to connect. A hook-up for any set accompanied by full explanation. None are missing. They are all there. There are no two alike.

The most complete and reliable data ever collected. The result of thousands of experiments by some of the most famous wireless experts in the country.

Read now before the supply is exhausted or you forget. You will be sorry if you don’t.

Note: This book is always kept up-to-date by frequently issuing new editions. Send for the latest copy.

Do your Wireless friends come to you for advice on constructing and operating their apparatus or do you go to them for information?

Here is a chance for YOU to become the authority.

This book is a necessity to every Progressive Experimenter.

It shows how to obtain the very highest efficiency from any station, and how to comply with the law. How to tune, adjust your detector, spark gap, phones, etc.

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IT SHOWS HOW to receive or send on long or short wave lengths with highest efficiency, to tune for longest distance reception of messages, to use the buzzer test, how to test and connect condensers, receivers, etc., how to use receiving transformers, variometers, etc., all with highest efficiency in view.

IT ALSO DESCRIBES the construction and use of a simple, inexpensive wave meter to tune the station to any desired wave length, and tells how to obtain a sharp wave and a pure wave.

EXTRACTS FROM THE LAW are also given in such a manner that they are easily understood.

ELECTRICITY.

The study of, and its laws for beginners, comprising the laws of electric current generation and flow, Ohm's law, galvanism, magnetism, induction, principles of dynamos and motors, wiring, with explanations of simple mathematics as applied to electrical calculations. By N. H. SCHNEIDER. With 55 original illustrations and 6 tables.

DRY BATTERIES.

A practical handbook on the designing, filling and finishing of dry batteries, with tables, for automobiles, gas engine, medical and coil work, electric bells, alarms, telephones, experiments and all purposes requiring a first-rate battery. Fully illustrated with 30 original drawings.

ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS AND DIAGRAMS.

Being a selection of original up-to-date and practical diagrams for installing annunciators, alarms, bells, electric gas lighting, telephones, electric power light and wiring circuits, induction coils, gas engine igniters, dynamos and motors, armature windings. By N. H. SCHNEIDER.

ELECTRIC BELLS AND ALARMS.

How to install them. By N. H. SCHNEIDER. Including batteries, wire and wiring, circuits, pushes, bells, burglar alarms, high and low water alarms, fire alarms, Thermostats, annunciators, and the locating and remedying of faults. With 56 original diagrams.

MODERN PRIMARY BATTERIES.

Their construction, use and maintenance, including batteries for telephones, telegraphs, motors, electric lights, induction coils, and for all experimental work. By N. H. SCHNEIDER. 94 pages, 55 illustrations. The best and latest American book on the subject.

EXPERIMENTING WITH INDUCTION COILS.

H. S. NORRIE, author of "Induction Coils and Coil Making." A most instructive little book, full of practical and interesting experiments, fully explained in plain language with numerous hints and suggestions for evening entertainments. Arranged under the following headings: Introduction; The Handling of Ruhmkorff Coil; Experiments with Sparks; Effects in the Vacuum; Induction and Wireless Telegraphy. With 36 original illustrations. [In the press]

SMALL ACCUMULATORS.

How made and used, by P. Marshall. Giving full descriptions how to make all the parts, assemble them, charge the cells and run them, with examples of their practical application. Useful receipts and memoranda and a glossary of technical terms. 80 pages, 40 illustrations, paper.

ELECTRIC GAS LIGHTING.

How to install Electric gas igniting apparatus including the jump spark and multiple systems for all purposes. Also the care and selection of suitable batteries, wiring and repairs, by H. S. NORRIE. 101 pages, 57 illustrations, paper

THE WIMSHURST MACHINE. HOW TO MAKE AND USE IT.

A practical handbook on the construction and working of Wimshurst machines, including radiography and wireless telegraphy and other static electrical apparatus. By A. W. Marshall. Second edition, revised and enlarged. Containing a number of sectional drawings and details to scale. Contents of chapters: 1. Introductory. 2. Static Electricity. 3. The electrophorus. 4. The Electroscope. 5. Condensers. 6. The Leyden Jar. 7. The Parts of a Wimshurst Machine and Their Use. 8. Making and Management of Wimshurst Machines. 9. Some Examples of Wimshurst Machines, small machines. 10. Complete detailed drawings and particulars for the construction of a 24-inch plate machine. 11. The Wimshurst machine for X-ray work with detailed drawings. 12. Experiments for Wimshurst machine. 112 pages, 30 illustrations and plates.

WIRELESS TELEPHONE CONSTRUCTION.

By Newton Harrison. A comprehensive explanation of the making of a Wireless Telephone Equipment. Both the transmitting and receiving stations fully explained with details of construction sufficient to give an intelligent reader a good start in building a Wireless Telephone system and in operating it. 74 pages and 43 illustrations.

LOW VOLTAGE ELECTRIC LIGHTING WITH THE STORAGE BATTERY.

Specially applicable to Country Houses, Farms, Small Settlements, Launches, Yachts, etc. By Norman H. Schneider. Giving full details and illustrations of the most up-to-date small American Plants. Contents of chapters. 1. Introduction. 2. The Storage Battery. 3. Estimating the Installation. 4. The Electric Plant. 5. Some Typical Plants. 6. Installation and Operation. 95 pages, 27 illustrations.

PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS FOR WIRELESS TELEGRAPH SETS, Part II,

by A. F. Collins. Complete and detailed data for constructing a five to ten mile set, also a ten to twenty-five mile set. 1. A five to ten mile tuned transmitter. 2. A five to ten mile tuned coherer receptor. 3. A five to ten mile tuned auto-detector receptor. 4 and 5. A ten to twenty-five mile tuned transmitter. 6. A ten to twenty-five mile tuned coherer receptor. 7. A ten to twenty-five mile auto-detector receptor. 80 pages, 63 illustrations.

PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS FOR WIRELESS TELEGRAPH SETS, Part I,

by A. Frederick Collins. Complete and detailed instructions for making an experimental set, also a one to five mile set. 1. An experimental transmitter. An experimental receptor. 3. A one to five mile transmitter. 4. A one to five miles coherer receptor. 5. A one to five mile auto-receptor. 55 pages, 37 illustrations.

MODEL FLYING MACHINES, THEIR DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION.

By W. G. Aston. Contents of chapters: 1. General principles and their application. 2. Power. 3. Supporting surfaces. 4. Screws, and how to make them. 5. Tails and elevators. 6. Fins. 7. Designs. With a number of examples of monoplane, bi-plane, tandem bi-plane and tri-plane models. 8. Dirigibles. 9. Helicopters. 10. Ornithopters. 11. Winding apparatus. 12. Compressed air motor. A first-rate book for Model Makers, 125 pages, 95 illustrations, 12mo. boards, postpaid, for 550.

MODEL GLIDERS, BIRDS, BUTTERFLIES AND AEROPLANES.

How to Make and Fly Them. A booklet with one large sheet containing twelve butterflies and two birds in colors and material for making a small card-board Model Aeroplane Glider. Complete in folder, postpaid, for 55c.

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By E. W. Twining. Consisting of one booklet and five large scaled drawings for three Twining Models, two of them being of the Bi-plane Glider type. Complete in folder, postpaid, for 55c.

THE AEROPLANE PORTFOLIO.

By D. Ross Kennedy. Containing nine sheets of scale drawings of the following celebrated Aeroplanes: Bi-plane type-Wright, Farman, Voisin, Cody, Herring-Curtis. Monoplanes—Rep. Antoinette, Santos Dumont, and Bleriot. Each of these machines are here shown in End View, Plan and Elevation. Including booklet which contains a description of each machine. This timely set of drawings should prove of value to everyone interested in this important new industry. The complete set in folder, postpaid, for 55c.

THE PERCY PIERCE FLYER.

A large scale drawing of this prize-winning Monoplane. With all measurements and details showing a front elevation, a side elevation and a top elevation; with 8-page descriptive booklet of particulars postpaid, 15c.

HOW TO BUILD A 20-FT BIPLANE GLIDING MACHINE,

that will carry a man. By A. P. Morgan. A practical handbook on its construction and management. Enabling an intelligent reader to make his first step in the field of aviation with a comprehensive understanding of some of the principles involved. Fully illustrated with detailed drawings. Contents of chapters: 1. The frame work assembling and finishing the wood. 2. Covering the planes, laying out the fabric and fastening it. 3. Trussing, fastening the tie-rods and trueing the glider. 4. Gliding flight, the principles involved, instructions and precautions. 5. Remarks. 60 pages, 31 illustrations.

Is a magazine which will help you. It is a practical monthly for every one who wants to learn about electricity, or who uses tools. Its articles tell you how to make dynamos, engines, wireless telegraph apparatus, furniture, models, etc. It is the only magazine of its kind in the world.

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