Fig. 2261 represents an ordinary solid hand reamer for parallel holes. The teeth are ground so that their tops form a true circle, this grinding being done after the reamer has been hardened and tempered, because in these processes the reamer is apt to get both out of round and out of straight.
In some practice the reamers are formed as shown in Fig. 2262, and are made in sets of three for each size; the first is slightly taper from end to end, the second is slightly tapered at the entering end for a length about or nearly equal to the diameter, and the third is parallel and rounded on the end like the second, and in many cases only three teeth are employed.
Fig. 2263 represents a reamer in which the distance between the cutting edges a b, Fig. 2264, is greater than between b c, and so on, the spacing decreasing from tooth a to tooth a. The spacing of a, b, &c. to f on the other side is also irregular, so that if the reamer be given half a revolution no two teeth will have arrived at similar positions except a and a, the former arriving at the position occupied by the latter.
Now suppose that a hole to be reamed has a hollow or spongy seam along it, and if the reamer be regularly spaced, there will at this point occur a lateral movement of the reamer that will impair the roundness of the hole, and this lateral movement the irregular spacing tends to prevent.
If a solid reamer is made to standard gauge diameter when new, and the bolts or pins turned to standard diameter, then by reason of the wear of the reamer the work will become gradually a tighter fit and finally will not go together, hence the reamer must be restored to standard diameter, which may be done by upsetting the teeth with a set chisel. Furthermore the workman’s measuring gauges are themselves subject to wear, those for measuring the pins wearing larger and those for the holes wearing smaller, and this again is in a direction to prevent the work from fitting together. It is preferable, therefore, to employ adjustable reamers.
Thus Fig. 2265 represents an adjustable reamer in which the teeth fit tightly into dovetail grooves, that are deeper at the entering than at the shank end of the reamer, so that by forcing the teeth up the grooves towards the shank the diameter is increased.
Both castings and forgings are found to alter somewhat in shape in proportion as their surfaces are removed by the machine tools, so that the shape of the work undergoes continuous alteration.
Suppose, for example, that a piece of metal two inches square and four inches long, has a hole cast in it of an inch in diameter, and when finished it is to be 13⁄4 inches square, 33⁄4 inches long, and have a hole 11⁄8 diameter. Let it be chucked in a lathe or shaping machine and have its surfaces cut down to the required dimensions. Removing the metal to true the first surface will reduce the strain on that side of the casting and alter the shape of the whole body, but this alteration of form will not occur to its full extent until the piece is removed from the pressure of the chuck jaws, or other clamping device holding it in the machine, because this pressure holds it; as a result the surface will not be so true after leaving the machine as it was before. On surfacing the second side of the piece, the internal strain is still further reduced, and a second alteration of form ensues, and so on at the surfacing of every side of the piece. Now let the piece be chucked true to have the hole bored out, and the removal of the metal in the hole will again reduce the internal strain and the form of the body will again alter.
Suppose, however, that the piece after having its surfaces thus removed, and its hole bored as true as may be, were again trued over each surface, and in its bore there will still be at each surfacing and at the boring an alteration of form, although it may be to a very minute degree, and from these causes the use of the reamer for work requiring to be very true becomes indispensable.
Fig. 2266 represents a taper hand reamer with straight flutes. It is preferable, however, to give the flutes a left-hand spiral, as was explained with reference to reamers for lathe work.
The frames of large machines are frequently composed of parts that are bolted together after having the holes for shafts, &c. bored, and to insure the alignment of these holes after the frames are put together a hand reaming bar, such as in Fig. 2267, is employed, a and b being two shell reamers fastened to the bar by a pin.
Reamers are sometimes employed to enlarge holes or bring them fair one with another, without reference to their being precise to a designated diameter; thus Fig. 2268 represents a half-round reamer of the form used by boiler makers to bring rivet holes fair, and sometimes by machinists to ream the holes for taper securing pins. The flat face is cut down to below the centre line, so that the back requires no clearance ground upon it.
The square reamer shown in Fig. 2269 is used for rough work generally, although with careful grinding and use it will produce excellent results upon work of small diameter. Brass finishers generally prefer a square reamer to all others for reaming the bores of brass cocks, &c., and some of them prefer that one edge only be sharpened to cut, the other three being oilstoned off so as not to cut, but simply serve as guides. The square reamer is very easily sharpened whether by grinding or oil-stoning; the flat sides are operated on, taking care to keep them straight and the thickness even on the two diameters, so that, the sides being straight and the reamer square, it will cut taper holes whose sides will be straight. If the reamer is not ground square, two only of the edges will be liable to have contact with the work bore, causing the reamer to wabble, and rendering it liable to break.
Another and very good form of reamer for the rapid removal of metal is shown in Fig. 2270, having three teeth and a good deal of clearance, which enables it to work steadily and cut freely.
Chapter XXVI.—VICE WORK—(Continued).
In most of the operations of the machine-shop, the work of the chisel is followed by that of the file; hence, as an example in the use of the chisel independent of that of the file, the cutting of the teeth upon files may be given as follows:—
The largest and smallest chisels commonly used in cutting files are represented in two views and half size in Figs. 2271 and 2272. The first is a chisel for large rough files; the length is about 3 inches, the width 21⁄2 inches, and the angle of the edge about 50°; the edge is perfectly straight, but the one bevel is a little more inclined than the other; this chisel requires a hammer of about 7 or 8 pounds weight. Fig. 2272 is the chisel used for small superfine files; its length is 2 inches, the width 1⁄2 inch; it is very thin, and sharpened at about the angle of 35°; it is used with a hammer weighing only 1 or 2 ounces; as it will be seen, the weight of the blow mainly determines the distance between the teeth. Other chisels are made of intermediate proportions, but the width of the edge always exceeds that of the file to be cut. The first cut is made at the point of the file; the chisel is held in the left hand, at a horizontal angle of about 55° with the central line of the file, as at a a, 2273, and with a vertical inclination of about 12° to 4° from the perpendicular, as represented in Fig. 2274, supposing the tang of the file to be on the left-hand side. The following are nearly the usual angles for the vertical inclination of the chisels, namely: For rough rasps, 15° beyond the perpendicular; rough files, 12°; bastard files, 10°; second-cut files 5°, and dead-smooth-cut files 4°. The blow of the hammer upon the chisel causes the latter to indent and slightly to drive forward the steel, thereby throwing up a trifling ridge or burr; the chisel is immediately replaced on the blank, and slid from the operator until it encounters the ridge previously thrown up, which arrests the chisel or prevents it from slipping farther back, and thereby determines the succeeding position of the chisel. The chisel having been placed in its second position, is again struck with the hammer, which is made to give the blows as nearly as possible of uniform strength, and the process is repeated with considerable rapidity and regularity, 60 to 80 cuts being made in one minute, until the entire length of the file has been cut with inclined parallel and equidistant ridges, which are collectively denominated the “first course.” So far as this one face is concerned, the file, if intended to be single-cut, would be then ready for hardening, and when greatly enlarged its section would be somewhat as in Fig. 2274.
The teeth of some single-cut files are much less inclined than 58°; those of floats are in general square across the instrument. Most files, however, are double-cut, and for these the surface of the file is now smoothed by passing a smooth file once or twice along the face of the teeth, to remove only so much of the roughness as would obstruct the chisel from sliding along the face in receiving its successive positions, and the file is again greased. The second course of teeth is now cut, the chisel being inclined vertically as before, or at about 12°, but horizontally about 5° to 10° from the rectangle, as at b b, Fig. 2273. The blows are now given a little less strongly, so as barely to penetrate to the bottom of the first cuts, and consequently the second course of cuts is somewhat finer than the first. The two series of courses fill the surface of the file with teeth which are inclined toward the point of the file. If the file is flat and to be cut on two faces, it is now turned over; but to protect the teeth from the hard face of the anvil a thin plate of pewter is interposed. Triangular and other files require blocks of lead having grooves of the appropriate sections to support the blanks, so that the surface to be cut may be placed horizontally. Taper files require the teeth to be somewhat finer toward the point, to avoid the risk of the blank being weakened or broken in the act of its being cut, which might occur if as much force were used in cutting the teeth at the point of the file as in those at its central and stronger part. Eight courses of cuts are required to complete a double-cut rectangular file that is cut on all faces, but eight, ten, or even more courses are required in cutting only the one rounded face of a half-round file. There are various objections to employing chisels with concave edges, and therefore, in cutting round and half-round files, the ordinary straight chisel is used and applied as a tangent to the curve. It will be found that in a smooth, half-round file 1 inch in width, about twenty courses are required for the convex side, and two courses alone serve for the flat side. In some of the double-cut, gullet-tooth saw-files, as many as twenty-three courses are sometimes used for the convex face, and but two for the flat. The same difficulty occurs in a round file, and the surfaces of curvilinear files do not therefore present, under ordinary circumstances, the same uniformity as those of flat files.
The teeth of rasps are cut with a punch, which is represented in two views, Fig. 2275. The punch for a fine cabinet rasp is about 31⁄2 inches long and 5⁄8 inch square at its widest part. Viewed in front, the two sides of the point meet at an angle of about 60°; viewed edgewise, or on profile, the edge forms an angle of about 50°, the one face being only a little inclined to the body of the tool. In cutting rasps, the punch is sloped rather more from the operator than the chisel in cutting files, but the distance between the teeth of the rasp cannot be determined, as in the file, by placing the punch in contact with the burr of the tooth previously made. By dint of habit the workman moves—or, technically, hops—the punch the required distance; to facilitate this movement, he places a piece of woollen cloth under his left hand, which prevents his hand from coming immediately in contact with and adhering to the anvil.
As an example in the use of the chisel for chipping purposes, let it be required to fasten a feather on a shaft.
There are four methods of inserting feathers: First, a shaft may have a parallel recess sunk into it and a parallel feather may be driven in; second, the feather may be made slightly taper and driven in; third, the feather may be dovetailed on the sides and ends both, or on the ends only, and as one or the other of these is the proper method, and the process is the same for both, one only need be described.
In Fig. 2276 let s represent a shaft and f a feather, required by the drawing to be permanently fixed therein. The drawing will not, in ordinary shop practice, give any instructions as to how the feather is to be fastened; hence the mechanic usually exercises his own judgment about the matter, or is governed by the practice of the shop. If left to his own judgment he may determine to so fix it that it may be locked on all four sides, as in Fig. 2277, or he may simply set it in as in the similar views shown in Fig. 2278.
The method shown in Fig. 2277 is the most secure and best job; but, on the other hand, it is the most difficult and costly. The difficulty consists in filing the parallel part above the surface of the shaft to a line that shall be quite even with the surface of the shaft. This difficulty may be overcome by leaving the sides parallel, and making the length a equal to the length of the acting part of the key, and the bottom b as much longer as may be required to get the required amount of dovetail on the feather ends.
The first thing to do is to mark off the keyway by scribing lines on the surface of the shaft, indicating the location for the feather seat; and for this purpose nothing is better than the key seat rule shown in Fig. 2279, in which w is the key seat rule, and s the shaft. After the lines are drawn they should be defined by centre-punch dots, as in Fig. 2280, and then the metal should be cut out on the sides first, using a cape chisel, and cutting close to the side lines, as in Fig. 2281, in which a is a cape chisel cut taken along one side, d a second cape chisel cut, being carried along the other side, c the cape chisel, c′ the cut taken by the chisel, and b a piece of metal to be cut out after the cape chisel has done its work. Suppose, now, the mass of the metal is removed, then the dovetailing is performed as follows: Next the setting or upsetting is proceeded with as shown in Fig. 2282, which is a side sectional view. s is a set chisel driven by hammer blows against the walls of the feather seat (as against the end e), causing it to bulge up, as shown at f. This setting will enlarge the feather seat or recess, so that the wide part of the dovetail on the feather will just pass in (the dotted lines shown in Fig. 2281 having, of course, been marked to the size of the feather, where it will, when fixed, meet the surface of the shaft). The feather is then placed in its seat and bedded properly by red marking applied to its bottom surface to show the high spots on the seat of the recess, and when properly bedded it is fastened, as in Fig. 2283, in which s is a set chisel, which, by being struck with hammer blows, closes the bulged metal back again on the dovetail of the feather, and firmly locks it in the shaft. And all that remains is to file the shaft surface around the feather level with the surrounding surface, there being usually a little surplus metal from the upsetting.
As an example of chipping and filing let it be required to chip and file to shape and to fit a knuckle joint (or a double and single eye, as it may more properly be termed), such as in Fig. 2284. The eye being marked out by lines, the first operation will be to remove the surplus metal around the edges by chipping, which should be done (with the pin in place, so that it may support the eye) before the joint faces are filed at all, and should be carried in a direction around the eye, as shown in Fig. 2285, in which v is the vice jaw, e a lead clamp, c the cut, and d the chisel. By chipping in this direction two ends are served: first, the force of the chipping blows is less likely to bend the eye if it is a light one, and, secondly, the chipping will not break out the metal at the edge of the eye, which it would be apt to do if the chipping was carried across. This is shown in Fig. 2286, where a chisel cut is supposed to have been carried across from a to b and a piece has broken out at b. If the width of the eye is too broad for one chisel cut, a cape chisel should be run around it, as in Fig. 2287, a d showing the cutting, the flat chisel cuts b, c being taken separately afterwards.
In order to illustrate the filing clearly, it will be necessary to show more metal to be filed off than would be the case in practice, unless the eye were very small, in which case it would not pay to chip.
Put the eyes together with the pin in and let the two lowest places on the edges coincide. Then file a flat place clear across them, as shown in Fig. 2288 at f, making it parallel to the pin, and, say, down to within 1⁄100 of the finished depth. To test the parallelism of the flat place, take out the pin and apply to the flat place a square, rested against the radial face of the double eye, or measure its distance from the hole of the eye on each side of the double eye, that is at each end of the hole.
When it is true and down to the required size, put the eyes together and let their relative positions be such that the flat places do not coincide, and that on the double eye will serve as a guide to carry the filing around the single eye, while that on the single eye will serve as a guide to carry the filing around the double eye, as will be seen on reference to Fig. 2289, in which the flat places a, b on the double eye serve as a guide to file c down to, while the flat place on the single eye at d is a guide to file the metal at e, f down to, and it is obvious that by moving the eyes to different positions the eye may on that side be filed true and to circle.
When the filing has thus been carried around as far as the movement of the eyes permits on that side, turn the single eye over in the double eye, and they will appear as shown in the end view, Fig. 2290, a being the filed side of the single and e d that of the double eye; hence the metal at c, b must be filed down level with a, and that at f down level with e, d.
We have assumed that the edges only required finishing irrespective of the joint faces; but let it be assumed that the whole of the eye has been dressed up by machine tools, and that it requires fitting and finishing by the file both on its joint faces and on its edges.
If the eye has been bored and faced in the lathe the faces will be about true with the hole, but if it has had its faces trued in a machine, as a planer or slotter, and the hole bored subsequently in a slotting machine, the hole may not be true to the faces. This may occur from want of truth in the chucking devices, from these devices having been held to a table or carriage moving on slides, and having lost motion or play, in which case from the leverage of the pressure of the boring tool-reamer or bit, this table may have lifted to the extent of such play, in which case the hole will not be at a right angle to the face or faces.
First, then, these faces must be tested for truth and smoothed by filing. The best testing device is a pin and washer, the pin neatly fitting the hole in the eye and the washer neatly fitting the pin. The radial face of the pin head and of the washer should then be given a light coat of marking, and be inserted in the eye, as shown in Fig. 2291, in which a is the pin head and b the washer. If each be then rotated under pressure against the eye, they will mark the high spots, which may be filed and draw-filed until an even contact all around is shown.
The single eye should be similarly faced and fitted, a somewhat tight fit, into the double eye. In a job of this kind, where accuracy of fit is essential, it is usual to bore the hole about 1⁄100 inch smaller than its finished diameter, and after fitting the two eyes, to ream out the eyes while bolted together.
For the reaming the two eyes should be clamped together. The single eye is left somewhat too tight a fit to the double eye to permit of the finishing being done after the holes are reamed, because the reaming may slightly alter the axial line of the hole. The two bolts holding the clamping plates should be brought just home on the plates, and then tightened up gradually and alternately, so that the eyes may be gripped fair, and not liable to move during the reaming. The bores of the eyes should be set as true as possible one with the other before the plates are tightened upon the eyes, for if it is attempted to set the eyes true by hammer blows afterwards, the pressure of the plates would cause the arm or hub of the double eye which received the hammer blow to move more than the other, or, in other words, to spring out of its normal position, and the eye will be distorted. But when released from the pressure of the clamping plate the double eye will resume its normal shape, and the holes will not be axially true in the two eyes.
After the holes are reamed the temporary pin and washer used for the facing will be too loose, and the proper pin should be used for all future operations. The eyes should be put together with a light coat of marking on both faces of the single eye, and, with the pin in place, one eye should be moved back and forth, when they may be taken apart again and filed on the high spots. When by repetition of this process they fit properly the outside edges may be filed up, as already described.
It is obvious, however, that the pin and washer shown in the figure may be hardened and used to file the edges up before the reaming, in which case, their diameters being equal, and equal to that of the required finished diameter of the eye, it is easy to file the eye edges true and to size; but even in this case the eyes should be finished by reversing and moving as before described. There is, however, the objection to filing the edges—first, that the joint will show plainer, because in filing the side faces to fit the single into the double eye, that part of each face near the edge is apt to be filed away slightly too much, causing the joint to show; but if the circumferential edges of the eye be filed last, the part so filed away is removed and the joint may be made almost invisible.
The best plan of all is to first fit the eyes, then ream them out and then provide a hardened pin and washer to fit the reamed hole, then file down the circumferential edges nearly level with the pin and washer and finish by reversing and moving the eyes as before described.
In the absence of any pin and washer, such as shown in Fig. 2291, the inside faces of the jaws of the double eye must be filed parallel to the outside radial faces of the single eye, the outside surfaces being trued when the hole is bored. If none of the surfaces have been trued with the hole, the outer ones should first be trued, using a T-square (if there is no pin) to test the truth of the face with the hole, and the inside jaw faces must be trued with the outside, measuring each jaw with outside calipers, and the width between the jaws with inside calipers.
Let us now suppose that it were attempted to first fit the single to the double eye a tight fit, then to ream the hole and then to make the joint an easy working fit. In this case the finished hole in one eye may become out of true with that in the other, that is, it may not be parallel with that in the other, and for the following reasons:—The holes of the two eyes will rarely come quite true with each other, even though the radial faces of the eyes be turned in the lathe or faced in a machine when the holes are bored, and it is the duty of the reamer to true as well as smooth them in whatever direction they may be out of true or face one with the other until they are put together. Now, if they be put together a tight fit, the outside jaws are sprung open to some extent. Again, they may be sprung slightly atwist, and if the hole be reamed true and this twist taken out afterwards the hole will come atwist or out of fair in proportion as the jaws lose their twist from being fitted.
Again, reaming the hole slightly alters its axial line, and the radial faces, if at a right angle to the hole before reaming, will not be so after reaming, and it is not practicable to discover in just what direction and to what degree reaming the hole will alter its axial direction; hence, the single eye must be fitted as near as may be before the holes are reamed, and finished afterwards as described.
Let it be required to reduce by filing, the diameter of a round pin or to file it to fit a taper hole, and the diameter of the pin being small it may be held by one end in the vice jaws or by means of the clamps, shown in Fig. 2091 or those in Fig. 2092. But the filing can be more truly and easily finished as in Fig. 2292, in which there is shown fastened in the vice a filing block having V-grooves (of varying width to suit varying diameters of work), in which the pin to be filed may be rested.
The pin is held by the hand vice shown, and is rotated towards the operator during the forward file stroke (one hand holding the hand vice and the other the file), and in the opposite direction during the back stroke. After every few file strokes the hand vice is partly rotated in the hand so that the whole of the pin surface may be subjected to the file. The hand vice enables the pin to be forced into its hole and rotated, to show by the contact or bearing marks where it requires filing to adjust the fit.
Fig. 2293 represents an excellent form of hand vice for holding pins, &c., the jaws being pivoted to a cross piece and opened by a cone, the handle threading to the stem of the cross piece, and being hollow so that the work may pass through it. The work is thus very firmly gripped and not liable to move in the jaws as it is when the hand vice is fastened upon the work by a thumb nut.
Very thin pieces of metal cannot be well held in the vice jaws, and as an example of this kind of work holding, let it be required to file up a caliper leg, which being curved cannot well be held in any of the vice fixtures heretofore shown.
In Fig. 2294 there is a block of wood having an extension at a that may be gripped in the vice jaws. Upon the surface of the block the caliper leg is held by brads or nails driven around its edge, as shown, or it is obvious screws may be used.
An excellent example of filing is to file up a hexagon nut or a bolt head. This is apparently a simple piece of work, but it is in fact a job that requires a good deal of care and precision to properly accomplish. The requirements are that the nut shall measure alike across the flats, that each flat shall be parallel to the axial line of the bolt, and at a proper and equal angle to both of its neighbors, and that the nut shall be of equal thickness all round. The method of accomplishing this result is as follows: Let Fig. 2295 represent a bolt head, after it has been turned in the lathe. It will be observed that the end face of the bolt head is rounded. Now a bolt head of this form gives a very neat appearance, but it presents difficulties in the filing up, as we shall see presently.
Suppose that one flat (which we will call flat a) of a nut, is nearest to the bore, then to make the nut of equal thickness all around, the other flats must be so filed down as to approach the bore as nearly as a does, and it is assumed that there is metal enough to permit this. The flat a will then be the first one to be filed up, taking off just sufficient to make it true when tested by the nut gauge, applied as in Fig. 2296, in which n is the nut, and g the gauge. The flat must also be filed true when tested by the gauge, as in Figs. 2297 and 2298, the gauge g being tried rested on a and applied to b, and then rested on a and applied to c. a should be filed so that, if possible, it will be at the proper angle to both b and c, but if, from errors in the angles of b and c, this is impossible, the error should be divided between the two, as shown, for example, in Figs. 2299 and 2300, where the gauge is shown in the two positions necessary to test each respective flat, b and c; the amount of error being equal at h and i.
The next flat to file will be e, Fig. 2299. Now, in a small nut, the chamfer of the nut edge will be sufficient guide to the eye in filing e to an equal thickness (that is, equal for distance from the bore to a).
In order that the finished nut shall be so true that the nut gauge shall show that the flats or angles are true one with the other all around the nut, it is necessary that the flat e shall stand parallel to a; hence it should be made so by measurement with calipers, irrespective of its angle to either d or f. After e is filed it will serve as a base from which d and f may be filed to angle, while a will serve as a base from which the flats d and c may be filed to angle; but, while testing the angle with the gauge, c and d should be tried for parallelism, and f and b for parallelism, while the diameters across these flats should be equal on all sides.
If it were attempted to go all around the nut, filing to the gauge, as, for example, filing c, Fig. 2300, from a, f from c, e from f, d from e, and b from d, all the error in the angle of the gauge, or errors of workmanship, will (supposing the latter to be always in the same direction) be multiplied upon, or rather added to b when tested with a, and these two will not be of correct angle. Again, any error made upon one flat will be copied upon the one filed to gauge angle from it; whereas, filing e parallel to a insures the correctness of these two, and testing the parallelism of the others, as b, f, serves to discover and correct any error of angle that may exist. It is obvious that in filing each flat the gauge must be applied as in Fig. 2296, as well as in Fig. 2298.
In filing the opposite flats to diameter to fit the wrench or gauge, if one be used, it is best to leave them a tight fit until all are nearly finished, so that any error that may be discovered may be corrected while finishing them.
In small nuts, if two are to be filed, a better plan may be followed. The two nuts may be put upon a short piece of screw, as shown in Fig. 2301, and screwed firmly together. In doing this, however, it may be found that the nuts will not tighten against each other, with the flats fair one with the other. This, however, may be accomplished by winding around the piece of screw, and between the nuts, a piece of waste, twine, or rag, and then screwing them together until they bind sufficiently and the sides come fair; the nuts may then be put in the vice, the jaws of the latter meeting the end a of the screw and the face b of the nut in the figure. Select the thinnest flat on either of the two nuts, and file it and the one coincident to it, but on the other nut, at the same time taking care that both are filed equidistant from the screw. To test this, apply the gauge as shown in Fig. 2296. File these faces down a little above size, and then loose the nuts and put in an addition of waste or twine, so that the same faces shall not coincide, and the two filed faces will serve as guides, down to which their new contiguous faces may be filed, the hexagon gauge being applied as before. By adding waste or twine, this process may be repeated, the original, or first-filed faces serving as guides down to which to file all the others, which will insure equal thickness of all the flats. After roughing out all the flats in this manner, reverse the nuts on the screw, so that the two chamfered faces come together, as in Fig. 2302, and any want of truth in the parallelism of the flats one with the other, or with the axial line of the screw, will become at once apparent, and will be corrected in the finishing, providing that an equal amount be filed off the respective sides that are in the same plane as are a and b in the figure. Of course nuts filed in this way require the application of the calipers and gauges, the same as described for a single nut; but uniformity will be assured and the filing truer, because the filing in small nuts, as an inch or less, will be more true on account of there being a larger area for the file to rest and steady upon. It is obvious that a plain cylindrical piece, instead of a piece of screw, may be used, in which case the waste or twine will be unnecessary; but in this case the plug, or cylindrical piece, should be shorter than the length of the two nuts, and should not be so tight a fit to the bores as to damage the threads.
In small nuts it will not pay to chip off the surplus metal, because they cannot be held sufficiently firmly in the vice without suffering damage from the vice-jaws, or even from copper clamps, while lead ones are too soft to hold them.