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Molly Gavin's own cookbook

Chapter 693: SHELLFISH
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About This Book

A comprehensive domestic cookbook compiled with Catholic households in mind, this volume organizes recipes, menus, and kitchen guidance into practical sections—breads, beverages, cakes, candies, cereals, cheeses, soups, vegetables, meats, fish, poultry, preserves, sauces, desserts, and more—alongside chapters on utensils, table etiquette, kitchen economy, fasting and abstaining, and a cook’s dictionary. It emphasizes clear measurements, temperature control, and step-by-step methods, and includes menu suggestions, time- and cost-saving hints, and adaptations for religious dietary observance. The layout is designed for usability by busy cooks and includes an alphabetical index for quick reference.

SHELLFISH

Oysters are in season from September to May. They are nutritious and are easily digested, especially when eaten raw. During the oyster season they form the first course of a dinner served on the half shell or in cocktail. Mussels eaten in some parts of Europe are similar to oysters.

To Open Oysters: Put a thin, sharp knife between shells, near back and push forward until it cuts the strong muscles which holds the two shells together. Then the shells may be separated.

To Clean Oysters: Place oysters in a strainer; set over a bowl so as to save the liquid from them; then wash well in cold water and pick out all pieces of broken shells. Oyster liquid should be strained and scalded before using.


BROILED OYSTERS

Clean well large oysters; scald 1 min; drain and dry on towel; dip into soft butter till well coated and then in flour; season with salt and pepper; place on greased broiler; broil until a light brown; serve on thin buttered toast or on small pieces of milk toast, sprinkled with finely chopped celery.


DEVILED OYSTERS

Wash, drain and dry 6 large oysters; make a paste of ¼ tsp dry mustard, ⅛ tsp pepper and salt and 1 egg yolk; dip oysters in mixture and when covered well roll in fine cracker crumbs and broil.


FRIED OYSTERS

Wash, drain, clean and dry oysters; dip in flour or cracker crumbs; seasoned with salt and pepper; fry in deep hot fat; drain on brown paper; serve immediately on hot, folded napkin; garnish with parsley and thin slices of lemon. They can be dipped in egg, rolled in crumbs, dipped again in egg and rolled in crumbs and fried 1 min in hot fat.


OYSTER STEW

1 qt oysters, 1 c oyster liquid, ½ c milk or water, 1 tbp butter, 1 tbp cracker crumbs; ½ tbp salt, ⅛ tsp pepper. Scald and strain liquid; add to it milk, seasonings, butter and cracker crumbs; let come to boiling point; then add oysters and cook until edges begin to curl.


OYSTERS ON HALF SHELL

Serve oysters on deep halves of the shells; arranged on plate of crushed ice, with ¼ lemon in the center of plate; allow 6 oysters to each person served.


OYSTER COCKTAIL

6 small raw oysters, 1 tbp tomato catsup, ¼ tbp vinegar or lemon juice, 1 drop tabasco, salt, ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce.

Mix ingredients; chill; serve in cocktail glasses. Cases made from green peppers placed on a bed of crushed ice are attractive to serve them in. A cocktail glass full of cocktail sauce can be placed in the center of a bed of ice and oysters served on deep halves of shell the same as oysters on half shell.


RAW OYSTERS

Raw oysters are served on oyster plates, same as oysters on half shell, or in a block of ice; place block of ice on a folded napkin on platter, and garnish the base with parsley and quarters of lemon or ferns and lemon.

Oysters on Block of Ice. Square piece of ice, and with hot flatiron melt a hole large enough to hold oysters; pour off water; place ice on a folded napkin on platter and garnish with parsley and lemon. Green or watercress leaves can be used instead of parsley.


FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS

1 pt oysters, 3 tbp butter, 2 tbp flour, 1 tsp salt, few grains cayenne, ½ tsp parsley, chopped.

Drain and clean oysters; scald and skim oyster liquid; parboil in liquid; brown butter; add flour and stir until well browned; add oyster liquid slowly, stirring constantly; then seasonings and oysters; serve on toast, in patty shells or on shortcake.


PANNED OYSTERS

Clean 1 pt oysters; place in greased pan small pieces of toast; place an oyster on each piece; sprinkle with salt and pepper; bake until oysters are plump; serve with lemon butter.


CREAMED OYSTERS

1 pt oysters, 1 ½ c white sauce.

Drain and clean oysters; scald and strain the liquid; cook oysters in liquid until plump and edges begin to curl; drain; add to white sauce; add more seasoning if necessary; let it heat to boiling point and serve on toast in patty shells or on shortcake.


OYSTERS AND MACARONI

1 pt oysters, ¾ c macaroni, broken, salt and pepper, flour, ½ c buttered crumbs, ¼ c butter.

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until soft; drain and rinse with cold water; place a layer in bottom of greased baking dish; cover with oysters; sprinkle with salt and pepper; dredge with flour; dot over with ½ of the butter; repeat, and cover with buttered crumbs; bake 20 min in hot oven.


ROASTED OYSTERS

Use oysters in the shell; wash thoroughly with scrubbing brush; place in pan and cook in hot oven until shells part; open; sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve in halves of shells. Melted butter is very nice served with these.


OYSTER SHORTCAKE

Drain and clean 1 qt oysters; scald and strain the liquid; cook oysters in liquid until plump and edges curl; cook 1 tbp flour with 3 tbp of butter; when mixture is light and creamy gradually turn upon it boiling liquor and season with salt and pepper; when boiling stir in 3 tbp of cream; add oysters; stir over fire ½ min; serve immediately on individual shortcakes.


SCALLOPED OYSTERS

1 pt oysters, 1 c grated bread crumbs, ½ c coarse cracker crumbs, ½ c butter, 1 c oyster liquid, 1 tsp salt, ⅛ tsp pepper.

Drain and clean oysters; grease pudding dish; sprinkle bottom with a layer of bread crumbs; mix rest of the bread and cracker crumbs and stir in butter; arrange oysters and bread in alternate layers; seasoning each with pepper and salt; pour over oyster liquor; bake 30 min in quick oven.


OYSTERS IN BATTER

Clean oysters; drain and dry; dip in batter; fry in deep hot fat; drain and serve on folded napkin; garnish with lemon and parsley. Oysters may be parboiled, drained and then fried.


OYSTER BATTER

2 eggs, 1 tsp salt, ⅛ tsp pepper, 1 c bread flour, ¾ c milk.

To well-beaten eggs add salt and pepper; add milk and flour alternately, stir until smooth and well mixed.


RICED OYSTERS

1½ c hot boiled rice, 1 pt oysters, 1 c white sauce, butter, salt, pepper, 1 c cracker crumbs.

Cover bottom of greased baking dish with ½ the rice, then add ½ the oysters; pour over ½ the sauce; dot with butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper; repeat, using remaining ingredients; cover with crumbs and bake in hot oven 30 min.


OYSTERS AU GRATIN

In a saucepan put 1 tbp of butter; melt and add 1 tbp flour, ½ tsp salt and a little white pepper; mix smooth and stir in 1 c milk until it thickens; add a little Anchovy sauce or Worcestershire if liked; butter, either small dishes or 1 large dish; put in layer of sauce, then 1 of oysters, salt and pepper; more sauce and another layer of oysters; cover with bread crumbs; dot thickly with butter and bake in a quick oven; a tsp chopped parsley, 2 tbp grated cheese added to sauce improves it.


OYSTER ROAST

Clean 1 pt oysters; drain; place in greased pan and cook until oysters are plump and edges begin to curl; season with salt, pepper, and 2 tbp butter; pour over buttered toast.


OYSTERS SAUTE

1 doz large oysters; butter, pepper, salt; drain juice from oysters thoroughly; butter frying pan; when very hot place oysters in single layers; when brown on one side turn and brown on other side; while cooking keep adding a little butter. This, with the juice of the oysters, form a brown skin in pan; season with pepper and salt; when browned serve oysters and skin very hot.


SHRIMPS

Shrimps are caught in season from early spring till late autumn; they are about 2″ long, covered with a thin shell and are boiled and sent to market with the heads removed; they are used in salads; as garnish for boiled fish; they are creamed and served in patty shells; they may be prepared by any of formulas already given for lobsters or crabs; the seasoning should be less heavy, as the flavor of shrimp is more delicate; canned shrimp should always be rinsed in lightly salted water and well drained and aired before they are used. Before using remove any of the shell and the fine black thread of intestine.


CREAMED SHRIMPS AND PEAS

1 can peas, 1 can shrimps, 2 c white sauce.

Drain peas; finely divide shrimp; combine peas and shrimp and add white sauce; heat thoroughly and serve on buttered toast.


CRAWFISH

Crawfish are found in fresh water streams; they resemble lobster, and are largely used for garnishes, sauces, salads, etc.


CRAWFISH BORDELAISE

1½ lb crawfish meat, ½ pt cream sauce, 1 tbp butter, 1 glass red wine, 1 tbp minced carrot, 1 tbp minced onion, ½ tsp salt, few grains cayenne, few grains nutmeg.

Cook carrot and onion in butter; add wine, meat and cream sauce with seasonings; boil 5 min and serve hot.


SCALLOPS

Scallops are bivalve mollusks; the heavy muscle which holds together the shell is the only part used as food; they are usually cooked stewed or fried. To fry: Dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs, dust with salt and pepper and fry in deep fat. To stew: Make a pt of white sauce; add scallops and cook 10 min in db.


SCRAMBLED SCALLOPS

Boil ½ pt scallops till tender; drain, chop or pick them apart; mix with 2 well-beaten eggs, 2 tbp milk, salt and pepper to taste; cook in hot butter in frying pan, stirring as they thicken; when the egg is firm, turn out on toast.


SCALLOPS IN SHELL

1 pt scallops, 2 tbp butter, 1 tbp flour, yolk 3 eggs, 1 c drained liquid, 4 tbp bread crumbs, 1 slice onion, ½ tsp salt, few grains cayenne.

Drain scallops; toss them with 1 tbp butter in saucepan; brown lightly for about 10 min; drain from the butter and chop fine; melt 1 tbp butter; add onion minced fine and brown it lightly; add flour; cook together and stir in slowly scallop liquid; mix chopped scallops with bread crumbs and seasonings; add to sauce; beat yolks lightly; add to mixture and cook together for 3 min; fill the shells, sprinkle fine bread crumbs over top; dot with bits of butter and brown in a hot oven for 10 min.


TERRAPIN

Put in a kettle, cover with boiling salted water; add 2 slices carrot and onion, and a stalk of celery; cook until meat is tender, or about 40 min; remove from water, cool, draw out nails from feet, cut under shell close to upper shell and remove; empty upper shell and carefully remove and discard gall bladder, sandbags, and thick, heavy part of intestines; any of gall bladder would give a bitter flavor to dish; the liver, small intestines, and eggs are used with the meat.


BUTTERED CLAMS

Wash thoroughly and plunge them into boiling water for a moment; drain and open them; place in frying pan; some butter, and when quite hot add a little flour and cayenne to suit taste; simmer clams till they are slightly cooked; cover and simmer 5 min; serve on hot toast.


LITTLE NECK CLAMS

Little neck clams are served raw on half shell; the same as oysters on half shell.


CLAM BROTH

Wash and drain clams; steam till shells open easily; save juice that comes with opening and add enough water to make 1 qt; with a pair of scissors trim off soft part of clam and reserve to serve with the broth; chop tough portion a little and simmer 15 min in broth; strain and add pepper and salt if needed and serve in very small bouillon cups; send reserved portion to table with melted butter and lemon juice poured over them.


STEAMED CLAMS

Clams for steaming should be bought alive in the shell; wash clams thoroughly with scrubbing brush, changing water several times; place in large kettle, allowing ½ c hot water to 4 qt clams; cover closely; steam until shells partially open; be careful that they are not overdone; serve with individual dishes of melted butter; some prefer a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar added to butter.


ROASTED CLAMS

Roasted clams are served at clam bakes. Clams are washed in sea water, placed on stones which have been previously heated, covered with seaweed, and then a canvas covering; when done prepared and served the same as steamed clams.


CRABS

Crabs are in season during summer months; like lobsters, are purchased alive, put in hot water and boiled the same way; soft shelled crabs are hard shelled crabs shedding their shells.


BROILED CRABS

Prepare as above; cook in db for 10 min; serve with melted butter and lemon juice poured over.


DEVILED CRABS

1 doz crabs, ½ c butter, ½ tsp mustard, 1 tsp salt, few grains cayenne, bread crumbs.

Put meat in bowl and mix with it an equal quantity of fine bread crumbs; cream butter; add seasonings and stir, a little at a time; mixed crabs and crumbs; fill crab shells with mixture; sprinkle buttered bread crumbs over top; brown quickly in hot oven.


SOFT SHELLED CRABS

Lift each point of back shell and remove spongy substance found beneath it, taking care to scrape and cut away every bit; turn crab on its back and remove semicircular piece of dark, soft shell called “apron” or “flap” and more of the same spongy substance lying under it; wash in cold water and dry carefully on a towel; season with salt and pepper; dip in egg and roll in crumbs; fry 3 min in hot fat; putting in 2 at a time, as they should be ice cold when prepared; serve with tartare sauce.


CRAB A LA NEWBERG

½ c evaporated milk, diluted with ½ c water, 2 tbp butter, 2 tbp flour, ¼ tsp salt, ⅛ tsp paprika, 2 c crabmeat, 2 hard-cooked eggs.

Scald diluted milk; melt butter in frying pan; sift in flour, stir until smooth; add hot diluted milk; cook sauce over boiling water 10 min; add seasonings and crab meat; serve at once on toasted bread or crackers; garnish with hard-cooked eggs.


FROGS’ HIND LEGS

Trim and clean; sprinkle with salt and pepper; dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs again; fry 3 min in deep fat; drain and serve on buttered toast or crackers.


LOBSTER

Lobster should be perfectly fresh; one test of freshness is to draw back the tail, if it springs into position again it is safe to think the fish is good; plunge lobsters into boiling water enough to cover, and continue boiling them until they are done; between 10 or 20 min, depending on size. Too much cooking toughens lobster and destroys the fine delicate flavor of the meat.


STEWED LOBSTER

Take meat of 2 medium lobsters; cut in dice; season with salt as needed; ½ tsp cayenne and ½ lemon; make a white sauce; add another tbp butter and the seasoned lobster; let it simmer 10 min and serve hot.


LOBSTER A LA NEWBERG

2 small lobsters, 2 c cream, 4 tbp butter, 2 tbp wine, yolks of 4 eggs, 1 tsp salt, few grains cayenne, few grains mace.

Cut lobster meat in small pieces; cook slowly in butter for 5 min; add seasonings, wine, and simmer 5 min longer; combine cream with beaten yolks and pour slowly into cooking mixture; stir constantly for 1½ min.


LOBSTER SOUFFLE

2 lb lobster, 3 tbp mayonnaise, 1 c aspic jelly, ½ c tomato sauce, ½ tsp vinegar.

Cut lobster into small pieces; put bands of writing paper, about 2″ high, around as many ramequin cases as you wish to serve; beat mayonnaise, aspic jelly and tomato sauce together until they begin to look white; stir in the pieces of lobster; add vinegar; fill ramequin cases and put away to stiffen in a very cold place; when set, take off papers carefully; garnish with pounded coral or browned crumbs.